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If you think you might also want to go clipless on your mtb, you can also go with SPD on the roadie. Then you just need one pair of shoes for riding.

If not, or if you don't mind buying two pair of shoes, go with SPD-SL pedals and road-specific shoes. I use Shimano 105 pedals, and Giro Altus shoes. You can spend (lots) more, but I've never found either to be lacking.

As for what you need for the bike, you already mentioned the safety stuff. I recommend a medium sized saddle bag with:

• one or two spare tubes
  
• tire levers
  
• Multitool with a chain breaker
  
• CO2 filler head and 2 cartridges
  
  If you go on longer rides add:
  
  
• patch kit
  
• Tire boot
  
• Mini pump
  
  For attire:
  
  
• Cycling shorts (or bib shorts)
  
• Jersey (get great deals on lightly-used jerseys on eBay. I've set up a "saved search" that sends me an email every day. I frequently get top-brand jerseys for < $20 incl. shipping.)
  
• Gloves
  
• Cycling hat or a Halo sweat band ... Keeps the sweat out of your eyes.
  
• Eyewear. Not just to look cool, but also to protect your eyes from bugs and road debris. Either get something with swappable lenses, or have a couple different pairs appropriate to different lighting conditions.
  
  Note: For shorts and jerseys, it really does pay to get the "better brands" (to a point ... Rapha, Castelli, etc... are nice, but short on bang-for-buck ... definitely paying for the name here). The better brands fit better, work better and last longer. I'm a fan of Primal, Pearl Izumi, Sugoi, Canari)
  
  Electronics:
  
  
• Head unit with GPS/nav. I love my Elemnt Bolt
  
• Speed/Cadence sensors. (I prefer the type with two separate sensors that mount on your wheel hub and crank arm. I find the all in one units that mount on your chain stay to be too fiddly.)
  
  If you want to up your electronics game, add a heart rate monitor (cheap) and/or power meter (expensive).
  
  Also, consider upgrading your tires. Tires are one of the cheapest upgrades you can make on your bike that will have a significant impact on performance.
  
  If your wheels are tubeless compatible, I can't recommend road tubeless enough. I have used both the Schwalbe Pro One and the new Mavic Yksion UST, and have been happy with both. You can then pare down your road kit to only one tube, CO2 can and tire boot. Keep the tools, but make sure the tire levers are strong ones. Tubeless tires can be a bitch to mount (though the Yksion UST's were super easy on my wheels ... YMMV).
  
  For traditional tires, the Continental Grand Prix 4000 Sii is pretty much the go to tire. It's light, rolls well, has great grip and decent tread life and puncture protection.
  
  

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

Posting pictures of the bike would be helpful. If you decide to do this, make sure to post a few high quality shots of your drivetrain which could show us if there's any critical wear.

However, before you post the pictures, it would be helpful to clean the bike. Get a bucket of soapy water, find a sponge or rag that you don't mind sacrificing and get to cleaning your mountain bike. Dry it off, and then post the pictures (that will make any critical deficiencies more obvious).

As others have mentioned, you'll most likely need to remove the chain. Here's a video from one of the best cycling channels on Youtube, Global Cycling Network (GCN), that shows you exactly how to do that. GCN and its sister channel, Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN) offer a number of fantastic maintenance videos in addition to a variety of other content. If you're wondering where to get a chain tool, I would just spend a bit of extra money and get a good multi tool like the Crank Brothers multi tool which already comes with one.

Pump up the tires to see if they still hold air. If they do, fantastic. Nothing more needs to be done. If not, you'll need to get new tubes (most likely your mountain bike will need 26 in X 1.9-2.125 in tubes). Here's how to install a new tube.


As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.
   
   
2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in Australia. All helmets sold in that country are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.
   
   
3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.
   
   However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.
   
   
4. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.
   
   
5. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.
   
   
6. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.
   
   
7. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.
   
   
8. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.
   
   
9. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.
   
   
10. Tire levers.
    
    
11. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.
    
    
12. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.
    
    
13. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.
    
    
14. Spare tube. Fortunately 26 in tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.
    
    /r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

Well, you should certainly have a mirror, yeah. Maybe not a disco ball, but at least one. I like THIS ONE the best. Heck, put one on each bar end if you're feeling nutty.

Use flashing lights even during the daytime. You'd be surprised how well they can increase your visibility in broad daylight. For the rear, the Cygolite Hotshot seems to be the brightest from the research I've done. Not sure about the best front one. I got a CREE 1800 lumen on ebay (brand new) for like $40. They sell 'em cheap outta China. Serfas makes a good one too - the thunderbolt I think? Battery doesn't last too long, though. If you wanna be OTT about it, get 2 front & 2 rear - have one steady and one flash in each direction. Then, of course, wear bright clothing & all that. You can find reflective vests for cycling pretty cheap.

My dad used to commute 18 miles each way to work and used a side flag like THIS ONE all the time. It definitely makes folks give you a little extra room. Oh yeah, get a bell. Seriously. They make small ones if you're too embarrassed by a big one, but they don't have the "classic" bell sound. Nothing says "bike" like that ole' "ring-ring" and you want folks to know what you are before they even see you.

With some of this equipment on, my wife calls me the safety patrol leader. She still worries, but she knows I'm adamant about safety, am always on the defensive and, because of this gear and my practices, am less likely to get hit than if I wore all black and thought I owned the road.

Well, other than those pointers, just always be militant about safety, stop at all red lights & stop signs, signal for turns and try to ride in groups.

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

*This is from a layman's perspective on exercise science and physiology as it relates to amateur cycling training

I'd rank ways to measure the training load of intervals like this from least to most helpful:

4. Distance at RPE or Speed
3. Time at RPE or Speed
2. Time at HR

1. Time at a specific Power Rating
   
   My understanding is that Time and Intensity are what matter for training for specific physiological adaptations, so the more accurately you measure those two factors, the better quality your training will be. Distance tells you nothing about time it takes to complete a specific interval. It's related to time in that at a given speed on unvarying terrain different distances will take different times to complete, but we can't control for those variables on the road. On a track or a very flat course with no wind....maybe.
   
   Speed tells you very little about intensity because of the same factors as well as your level of rest and recovery.
   
   Rate of Perceived Exertion (how hard am I working on a scale of 1-5 or 10 or whatever) can be a really good training cue for yourself, but until you have something more objective to measure it against (heart rate or power) it doesn't necessarily tell you much.
   
   Heart rate is influenced by a number of factors outside of the intensity of a specific workout, including rest, hydration, health, recovery, etc. It does, however, control for a lot of environmental variances (gradient, wind, etc.)
   
   Power is probably the most accurate way to measure intensity, and when coupled with heart rate and RPE you can draw some pretty profound conclusions about physiological responses from your body.
   
   I train with heart rate since I'm too much of a peasant to own a power meter. Typically I try to do my intervals at different heart rate levels based on what I'm attempting to train (muscular endurance, power, etc.) and try to return to a baseline heart rate within a designated resting interval. If I can't recover in time, typically it means I'm not rested enough for the workout or I haven't done enough base training and I change my plans for the day or the week.
   
   I'd recommend the Cyclist's Training Bible by Joe Friel
   https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201
   
   It certainly helped me.

Thanks for playing along.

> Busch and Muller Ixon IQ Premium

Good This might be one of the most amazing light out there. Unlike many other lights they recognize that "good" isn't just pumping out tons of lumens. They put the light where it needs to go, on the road and not where it shouldn't be - in drivers eyes and in the trees. Them and Light and Motion have the best optics I've seen. There's a few tunnel beam test out there which show beam patterns well.

This review sold me on the light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwM7vDvvGhU

They cover the beams at the end.

Now the thing is in this vid he's shooting pitch black, which all lights look bright in. Either way the flood is great.

Bad The high run time is listed at 3hrs (standard pretty much..) which is just long enough or a little too short depending on you. I wish more lights ran 4hrs on high as I take long rides with breaks in the middle. Itd be nice to not worry.

It doesn't have any side cut outs for visibility which do seem to help, even on very low powered lights.

Ugly

The main downfall for this light is its price, which I think is over $100. For some people $100 for one light isn't great. Some people might prefer to spend $100 on a different lighting setup (albeit likely with worse optics).


>Cygolite Hotshot



good

Crazy popular and a pretty neat light. I like the strong strobes and customizable flash settings for traffic

bright, unique flash patterns, affordable, good company.

bad

My big beef is it lacks a gentle pulse like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UthVrhsbRr4

for group/night trail rides i dont want to blind people. also id love to run a pulse/flasher combo.

PDW (I think) makes a light that combines a crazy flash pattern with a gentle strobe, that might be king...

ugly

lots of complaints about the mount, going back to at lease 2012. last thing i want is to lose a light on a ride w/o knowing.

"This light is great for visibility and can be seen from far away. MAJOR DRAWBACK - the light is mounted to the bike with a very flimsy mount. every time i go over a bump the light is jostled and ends up pointing straight down at the ground which of course defeats the purpose."

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/product-reviews/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_recent?ie=UTF8&filterBy=addThreeStar&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

You are going to need to increase your power (FTP) and introduce long intervals into your training. I"m talking about specific rides where your only goal is something like 3x20 minute intervals at 85-90% of your max power or heart rate. These are rides done by yourself, alone, and in some degree of pain towards the end of the session.

There's plenty of information on the internet on increasing your FTP, but essentially you want a decent (20 minute) warm up followed by 3 x 20 minute intervals at 85-90% of your max power or HR with 5 minutes of rest (riding super slow). You can start at 10 minute intervals first if you like. This has always worked very well for me in the past and I'm old school before Power Meters so it does work using HR, but most modern training is now done with power meters. It will still work with a heart rate monitor, but you need to know a few things about your heart rate zones, max hr, etc.

A good book that will probably get mentioned here is "The Cyclist's Training Bible" and it is highly recommended. Good luck, getting faster is hard work, but the rewards are worth it.

Here's what I wrote in another thread:

I ride with two Drift Stealth 2s and they're great - you can get them for about $85-100 apiece. They have 3-hour-ish battery life and on a 32 gig card can hold three days of my 20-mile-a-day commutes (they also have dashcam-like rollover so that you never have to worry about full memory, if you prefer that). They do 720p at 60fps or 1080p at 30fps, and while their picture isn't the equivalent of a GoPro, it's plenty good for legal purposes.

I highly recommend a helmet mount (vs. a bar mount) for your front-facing camera. You're much more likely to capture whatever shit's going on that way; a bar mount has a smoother picture but will miss anything happening to the side of your bicycle. One of the nice features of the Stealth 2 is that the camera lens rotates, so if you have to mount on your helmet at a funny angle you can turn the lens to compensate and still have a horizontal video.

For the rear mount, I used the sawed-off center beam of a seatpost-mounted back rack. There are cheaper seatpost-mounted back racks, but this particular model has a flat top, which makes it work well with the adhesive mount. I cut off everything but three-four inches from the beam, slapped the adhesive mount that comes with the Stealth 2 on there, and it's been going great even through weather for several months now.

If you have to choose between front and back for now, I'd definitely recommend investing in the front first.

Here's what they look like in daylight.

Here's what they look like during urban nighttime.

Here's what it looks like in rain.

Edit: It's notable that because the Stealth 2 uses a slide-in-slide-out mounting system, your mount-to-camera connection will loosen slightly over time from the friction of mounting and unmounting, which will cause vibration in the video after a while. I found that you can shim the inside of the mount with a strip of electrical tape, which tightens everything up nicely.

For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.

If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.


As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.

> if you get a road bike, you will find it easier to transition to longer rides if you want to.

I see this advice here all the time, and I'm not sure I understand it. Yes, it's true that some people who get into cycling decide they want to do long rides. But I don't think everybody does, and it always seemed to me that buying the bike you need now, rather than buying a bike that's not optimal now but you might hypothetically need later (or not) is a poor way to go. I commute (about 30 miles a week or so) and ride my bike to do errands and get some exercise. I'm feeling good three months into a car-free lifestyle, and losing weight, but I have neither the endurance nor the interest to tackle really long rides. If that changes in the future, I can always buy a different (or second) bike.

OP, given your description of your riding goals, I'd be inclined to go with a hybrid bike. I have the women's Specialized Vita and it's perfect for the kind of commuting you're describing. Comfortable, not-too-aggressive riding posture, plenty of gears for hills and such, and putting a rack, panniers, fenders, etc. on it was no big deal. Plus, it wasn't that expensive, so I can save money for another bike if I decide I want one later. There's a men's version of this basic bike, but I forget what Specialized calls it.

I'd also highly recommend reading Just Ride, by Grant Peterson (who's apparently been in the bike business forever.) He argues that a lot of the biking technology, best practices, and conventional wisdom out there trickle down from the world of racing, and may not necessarily be good advice if your riding habits have a different goal than racing. I don't agree with everything he says (he's a bit down on cycling as exercise) but reading this book really helped me shift what I was focusing on in my gear choices and riding habits. I may not be fast, and I'm definitely not riding 100 miles in a weekend, but I'm enjoying my bike a lot more.

The important thing is to spend a lot of time training at a moderate heart rate... basically an intensity you can maintain for over an hour that is difficult but not actually painful. Lots and lots of hours riding at roughly that level (and harder) will improve your aerobic fitness which is the most important factor.

If you want to be more serious about it buy a copy of The Cyclist's Training Bible and put together a long-term training plan based on that.

Also for a climb like Ventoux make sure you've got some easy gears on your bike. A compact crank (or triple) will make it a lot easier.

It's always suggested to get a new helmet. You don't know if it's been involved in a slight crash or had anything happen to it that would compromise its safety.

What kind of lights did you get??

I'd like to think I have some properly good lights and I've only spent ~$70 on them

Here's what I have: 2Watt Cygolite hotshot tail light ~$30 and another Cygolite headlight that can do short 600lm flashes, but has a few modes around 500lm or so, $50, but this is what I ordered last month for a friend who recently got into cycling, same 2W tail light & another headlight that's just a bump below the 550 I linked above for $60

Unless you've got some whopping mountain trail lights, I feel like $130 is a bit high, I'm all for supporting LBSs, but sometimes they get silly.

Anyways, stay safe & nice fucking deal on the bike.

Former shop mechanic here.

Chainrings are a really difficult part to stock. There's just far too many options out there to try and keep them all on hand.

Even for something like a 32t chainring, there's a large variety of types you'd need on hand. A 32t chainring is available in a handful of different BCDs and bolt patterns, different chain widths for different speeds, ramped and pinned, non-ramped and pinned, middle ring, outer ring, single speed, and probably some other varieties I'm forgetting.

So, your shop would need to stock like 10-20 different varieties of 32t rings just to make sure you're covered. Chainrings come in tooth counts from the mid 20s to the mid 50s. So to make sure that they've got everyone covered, your LBS would have to stock something like 300-600 different chainrings. Which would be insane.

Even to just carry all the super basic, most common ones, they would still have to have at least 50 different rings on hand, assuming only one of each.

That being said, the shop that did the work should have noticed your chainring wear on the first time, or at the very least on the second visit. That sort of thing is generally pretty apparent.

If you don't already have one, invest in a chain checker. Replacing your chain as soon as it starts to wear will extend the life of your cassette and chainring dramatically. A worn chain will eat through those parts real quick if you're not careful.

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

To quote Mr.T - "pain"
I'd do no more than 20 (fairly flat) miles on a first ride. You're probably plenty fit - but bikes are different than running. Increase as you feel comfortable. You might rub your naughty bits with a good cream (nozxema) before hand, for some lubrication - and I assume you have property biking shorts with a chamois? You need that. I like a mirror on my helmet. Eventually you'll need clipless shoes & pedals (which ironically do have clips). And watch out for cars.

Get a good book on bicycle maintenance. There are lots out there but I like Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance. If you're new to the whole thing it might feel overwhelming. Start with simple things like cleaning your drive train. You're probably also short on tools and all the specialized bike tools can get expensive. I'd recommend a starter tool kit from Park Tool. While you're there check out the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair. If you think you'll really get into it think about buying a bicycle work stand. It makes working on a bike a whole lot easier which will make you want to do it more often.

Not sure if this is applicable, but Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance is really good. I just picked up a copy and have been slowly making adjustments to my bike. It's really helpful.

There is also one for Mountain Bikes as well, which may better serve you.

By far, the best cheap light I’ve found is this one by inbike I got it in a lot of amazon return stuff and I didn’t get the mount with it, so I can’t speak for whatever comes with it. The light runs on 18650 cells which are the way to go imo. Pick up a couple more and wall charger and you’re good to go.

I have a version of this one on a couple bikes as well. Same light just non branded. Bright and rechargeable. One has been coated in mud several times and still works fine.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

My first:

Pedals - $50 when I bought at REI 3 years ago

Shoes - $65 when I bought them at REI 3 years ago

Jersey - $30, I absolutely love these cheap jerseys from Amazon, the zipper on the first one I bought finally gave out 3 years later. I will happily spend $30 on a new jersey every couple years.

Shorts - About $40 when I bought, I wouldn't recommend, they are hard to wear for more than an hour. This is one area where I believe it's important to buy nicer materials, especially for long rides. I have Pearl Izumi and Le Col bibs, they are fine but I am still looking for something that works better on long rides. I am trying theblackbibs.com next.

Let me know if you have additional questions as you get started, I took a relatively budget-minded approached when I jumped in.

Just remember that the best lock is one that looks better than the one next to it - it's a deterrent first and foremost (though the fuhgeddaboudit lock has a good track record).
And of course, if you can, try to keep your bike indoors or in a lockup if you're not on it!

If you know of any cycling clubs (or are already a member) you'll be able to get insurance cheaper through them usually. Ask your LBS - they'll know the ins and outs.

Pob lwc!

For maintenance guide, I really like the Zinn guides. There's one for road bikes and one for mountain bikes, but a lot of the content is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

I would also suggest attending a "bike maintenance 101" class. You can often find them through your friendly local bike shop or cycling collective, or sometimes your county DOT will offer them. I took one through the county and learned how to change a flat, adjust brakes and shifters, and clean/lube all the bike parts. It was really helpful!

You need eyelets that would be located on the back of the frame. For the most part, he will be stuck riding with a backpack when riding that bike. It's possible that you could get this Ibera rack that will fit onto the seat post but you will need to raise the seat post and take off the reflector and replace that with a bike light. IMO get him a better commuter that could have a sturdier rack and carry more weight that is mounted to the frame instead of the seat post. A good beginner bike would be a Giant Escape 2 or 3
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Seatpost-mounted-Commuter-Carrier/dp/B002T5GHNI/ref=pd_sbs_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002T5GHNI&pd_rd_r=CVHQBP7NSBBDP1EN6BS3&pd_rd_w=O9VLc&pd_rd_wg=cWUf5&psc=1&refRID=CVHQBP7NSBBDP1EN6BS3

I have this one and really like it. It lets me transfer all the goods from one bike to another easily.

What I have in mine:

• CO2 canisters ex
  
• CO2 inflater ex
  
• Patch kit ex
  
• Tire levers ex
  
• Allen key tool ex
  
• Tweezers (I use these to get things like thorns out of my tire)
  
• Spare chain link ex (just be sure you get the correct one)

For free-standing, this one is great. I had 4 bikes at my old apartment and had two of these racks side by side in my entry-way. If you want to hang them vertically, the link below is a great one.

free-standing

vertical wall mount

I've been good with a 450 lumen Cygolite on the front, and a Bontrager Flare R on the back.

But the Cygolite Hotshot Pro is a really good taillight too (guys in my group run them), so I'd recommend picking up a combo pack, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/CYGOLITE-LIGHT-COMBO-METRO-HOTSHOT/dp/B07545T4Y9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cygolite+combo&qid=1550174357&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Also, I always run two taillights for redundancy, I've had my tail light stop working before, and I didn't know, so consider picking up a lower cost hotshot as well, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cygolite+hotshot&qid=1550174600&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I had the same issue riding in the Florida heat. I've been using a Halo head band. I wear a Kask protone and it fits great - It's a game changer for me. I also bought a slimmer version to compare. I sweat like a beast and can do 40 miles before it get saturated. At that point I swap out for the smaller one. 100% recommend.

Putting on actual drop bars would get expensive, you'd need new shifters and brake levers (if the bike has hydraulic brakes you can forget about it). Not to mention, MTB geometry really isn't set up for drops.

You could however add something like Origin 8 drop ends

Best option would be skinnier more road like tires like Schwalbe Marathons or similar, and a rigid fork to help reduce weight up front. Then it would be a halfway decent flat bar bike.

At less than 65% you would drop into "Active Recovery" zone. The % of your max heart rate correlates to (perceived) effort.

after training, your 65% MHR power would go up dramatically. A typical training plan you would do base training for long hours at 65% for 2-3 months. Then start adding in higher intensity intervals.

This is pretty much the TLDR for The Cyclist Training Bible

Here are the must-haves for anyone:

1. A helmet that fits
   
   
2. A portable pump like this Lezyne pump in case you get a flat
   
   
3. Backup tire tubes / patch kit / tire levers for the same reason as above
   
   
4. A good bike lock - I like this Kryptonie Series 2 kit
   
   Optional but nice to have:
   
   
5. Water bottle cage & water bottle
   
   
6. Bike shorts or bib
   
   Depending on riding conditions:
   
   
7. Bike lights/reflectors
   
   
8. Cold weather riding gear (pants/etc)
   
   
9. For commuters, panniers/etc
   
   
10. Or a small backpack

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

I've got a TCR Advanced too!

Here's what I use on both my mountain and road bikes:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M1PAzbFHBZ9AA

And my shoes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O2JMCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z3PAzbXKEGNZ8

A little lower priced than most suggestions here.

It's worked perfectly, but I would stay away from the less expensive SPD pedals not made by shimano, they don't feel nearly as good.

my hub dyno lights are integrated, so I'll skip past those

• pearl izumi thermal light glove - good enough for all but the three or four hottest months of the year
  
  
• $2 headband from home depot it even has a little hole for a ponytail!
  
  
• 1 or 2 ortlieb front rollers, depending on what's being carried
  
  
• kryptonite u-lock - I'm in a low-risk area, so this is enough protection for me.
  
  
• mirricycle incredibell duet - I don't use it often, but when I do it's such a fun sound

I have the older version of this light.

It has seen over 7,000 miles of use, all sorts of weather conditions , and is two and a half years old now. It' still working although the USB port cover came off and the charging cable needs to put it and wiggled to get it to charge so I'm not expecting to get much longer out of it.

For the $15 I paid, it's been great value for money.

Will this do the job?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-4-Feet-Kryptoflex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466694629&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

Hope you don't mind the questions!

Thanks

I recently bought that tire in a 28 and a 32. No problem on size going from a 28 to a 32 you should be able to use the same tubes as well.

Just a heads up though - they are HELL to get on the rim. Have a shop do it or invest in a dedicated INSTALL tool like this - not just a set of levers

Watch some youtube videos so you get the basic gist if this is not your first rodeo but I suggest the tool I linked to - or else you better buy a couple of patch kits or extra tubes for when you pinch the tube while trying to lever the tire bead over the rim.

PRO TIPS Throw the tire outside in the hot sun for a couple hours to expand/soften the compound and use liquid soap to lube the contact areas. Hope this helps.

You don't need anything as expensive as those - although they are good!

I would personally recommend these http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M520L-Sport-Pedals-Cleats/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425894661&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+520

They will work with any MTB/SPD type shoes. Such as these http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Off-Road-Sport-Cycling-Shoes/dp/B008K3P6VW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1425894703&sr=8-6&keywords=Shimano+cycling+shoes

For my small apartment, I bought this off Amazon. It leans up against the wall and can be used as a bike stand for maintenance.

Edit: For $50 it's been great: amazon link

for the future. This works really great to get on the tight ones. https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=asc_df_B001AYML7K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9865483448796285076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031245&hvtargid=pla-448754439296&psc=1

IIRC Target does not sell any good locks. Buy one online or at your LBS. I have a Kryptonite 2 and it has saved my bike at least a couple times. Maybe later I will post the picture of someones failed attempt to hacksaw through it.

With proper locking technique you shouldn't have to worry during a 30 minute errand, especially if you locked the bike in a place that is well traffic'd and well lit, though I never leave my bike outside overnight if I can help it.

I just got some Shimano SPD-SL Pedals - PD-R540
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ

And some Pearl Izumi shoes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041HX6EA

I like the Pearl Izumi jerseys and shorts that I have so I stayed with that brand.

Only put 40 miles on them this weekend, but they seem nice.

There is a tool like this you can buy. When my chain is stretched to the .75 I replace it.

Here is a better tool: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Chain-Indicator-CC-3-2/dp/B000OZFIMQ

Get a helmet mirror, I like this one a lot. It lets you keep an eye on what's going on behind you, instead of just looking once when you need to change lanes or whatever. Much safer.

Read The Cyclists Training Bible by Joe Friel.

Like others say its such a hard question to answer. I (and many others) found that book to be a very good starting point.

If you come across a tire that you can't put on with your hands, use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K (check your LBS first though)

Best $15 I ever spent

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R6QR2C seems to fit the bill; anything from Cateye should hold up fine over time. At <$40 you're not going to get much in the way of features or flair, especially if you want cadence. The selection of wired computers is smaller than it used to be, so there just aren't as many options.

u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite

tyvm

i think zinn is the standard. but these days you're probably better looking for a video on youtube.

edit: zinn - https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance is basically the bible of bike repair. Buy that and supplement it with videos on YouTube from Park Tools or GCN.

If you live in a decent sized city, check and see if there's a bike co-op. They usually offer free/low cost repair classes and have a whole bunch of tools so you can see what you like/need.

I'm a Park Tool loyalist and will only buy that brand for 90% of my bike tools (my hex wrenches, tire levers, screwdriver, and fixie chainwhip are not PT). They're more expensive but they're solid and last forever. Can't really go wrong with them.

When I had a condo I used one of these in a closet to increase our storage. It worked really well.

Delta Cycle Michelangelo Two-Bike... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What kind of cycling? Mountain biking, road cycling, just commuting? I ride at night all the time, I usually ride to a bar a few times a month. My 10 yo son and I rode to the movies the other night.

Make sure you have a decent light setup. I use an urban 500

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Urban-500-Headlight/dp/B01F0FCAKW?th=1 for a head light and this rear blinker

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Helmets-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?keywords=amazon+rear+bike+light&qid=1556798034&s=gateway&sr=8-25-spons&psc=1

along with a neon green jacket and two led wheel lights. I find that people actually see me more at night than during the day.

​

I have this setup for my kids https://www.amazon.com/Ascher-Rechargeable-Headlight-Resistant-Included/dp/B01EUQ7ZQG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_lp_t_1/147-0384363-3958821?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=58XK20AREYT4CNVC9WYV

and it's actually really decent.

You don't need wireless, it just becomes a pain in the rear to change the batteries on both, but what are you using it for Road or Mt?

I just bought a wired one with Cadence link, which is really useful for the triathlons and time trials i do, but if your not into that theres cheaper than what your looking for that do basically the same thing, mentioned in the other comments

Does it have eyelets though?

edit: if it doesn't, you could try something like this

be sure to get a copy of zinn's book: https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988

Assuming this is your bike, you're going to have a hard time attaching racks. Maybe a seatpost bike rack will work. But they don't hold much weight. I wouldn't trust it with a laptop or college textbooks. Bikes with rear suspension really don't accommodate racks very well. If you're using your bike a lot for commuting back and forth to school, it would probably be worth trading in the bike to something more appropriate for commuting.

I recently bought a [cateye strada cadence] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R6QR2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to use while training and on the road and once it's installed it's great. Installation was a bit of a pain though and took me a few hours, although I'm a bit OCD when it comes to routing wires.

Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL Road Pedals, cleats included for $35.50. Go to a local performance bike and buy the cheapest shoes that fit, can probably find a pair for about $50. It's still more expensive than $8, but so much better than cages.

IIRC there are simple/cheap cycling computers. First Amazon result. http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Cadence-Bicycle-Computer-CC-RD200/dp/B000R6QR2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374117174&sr=8-1&keywords=cycling+cadence+computer

I was using Shimano PD-M520 MTB Pedals. Here is the amazon link http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M520L-Sport-Pedals-Cleats/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374823558&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+pedals

Oh man I know that frustration so well. You SHOULD be able to install a tire without levers, but I’ve gotten to the point where I’m covered in sweat and feeling like existence is hopeless trying to get that last little bit on. No need to get to that point if you don’t have to. this tool has been a lifesaver for me on those really tough ones

Front shocks are a waste of money and needless weight for the kind of urban riding that I do.

As for true off-road mountain bicycling, Grant Petersen in his book "Just Ride" suggests that they are not necessary there, either, and I tend to agree. You are better off using skills to avoid bumps and obstacles. But I'm not a mountain bicyclist, so what do I know?

I use this one at home and it's remarkably sturdy. We've had a few small earthquakes and it's never fallen or dropped a bike, and I don't have it anchored to the wall or anything.

Delta Michelangelo Two-Bike Gravity Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zY8yub0TZKF3P

bteske01's answer is spot on. If you want to learn more about all of the things, check out Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (or the mountain bike version if you have a mountain bike).
https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988

https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1937715477

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1934030988/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qqqMzb0NX0S76

And there's an mtb version if that's your flavor. It'll teach you anything you could want to know about working on a bike

Just Ride.

Check out this book

zen & the art of road bike maintenance is relatively cheap and is a giant text book of everything you would need to know from basic repairs to finetuning the smallest of parts.

I'd add Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance to the list.

buy Zinn's book: https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988

To learn about bikes, riding, and culture or how to fix them?

For maintenance this is a good start (or the MTB version): http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988/ref=la_B001JP36Q0_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1413652170&sr=1-1

I custom build my touring bike with this book. And of course Shelton Brown.

Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/193771537X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tsl8AbQ1CPQ4M

Tube

Levers

Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

Get a chain measuring tool http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Chain-Indicator-CC-3-2/dp/B000OZFIMQ At 0.75, replace the chain. After doing this 3 times, replace the chain and cassette

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

And to go with the levers...

https://www.amazon.ca/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

Axiom streamliner road dlx. Mounts to brake bridge.

I use Halo. They're essentially a cap that goes under your helmet and has a little strip of silicone on the forehead part that acts as a diverter for your sweat so it stays out of your eyes.

Halo II Headband Sweatband Pullover Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JS64LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2WunDbEXDC0AT

usb chargable, and I use both myself:

rear light

front light

My favourite bike is still the fixed gear I got for £150 from eBay. And the most comfy trousers for cycling are hard-wearing slightly baggy walking trousers, IMHO.

I'm inclined to mock those weekend warriors in lycra on their £3000 carbon framed bikes that never get wet. They're called 'mamils' (middle aged men in lycra) in England. Seeing one up ahead on the road is like waving a starting flag; I have to catch and beat them.

Try reading Grant Peterson's book, if you haven't already.

If you're looking for a book, Zinn is hard to beat. Basically the Bible of bike maintenance.

It depends how far you're willing to go. I have a beater bike I ride to run errands that I've designed to be unappealing to thieves.

-Fixed gear (high gearing)

-Frame wrapped in Skittles duct tape

-Pink handlebars

-Rainbow colored chain

-Rips in saddle

-Kyptonite Fuhgettaboutit New York U-Lock

All the components are as cheap as possible. 99% of the time I lock it next to a nicer bike that has a crappier lock.

i have a hybrid and just recently added drop bars. it cost a little over $30 and you can find all the materials off of amazon.
link for the dropbars
grip tape

> u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?
> https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite tyvm
>

My girlfriend has this lock, the biggest flaw in it is that the lock only engages on one side, that means only one cut is required to remove the lock. Compared to the Kryptonite New York which engages on both sides, which means a thief would need to cut both sides of the shackle to remove the lock.

No, but here is a minimal rear rack that would work: https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO

Here's the Axiom rack mentioned by parent comment. It attaches at the skewer and rear brake post, so no special mounting equipment needed. I have one and have used it for two multi-day tours with no major issues. The short chainstays on racing bikes can potentially cause some interference between your heel and the front of your panniers depending on how big the panniers are and how far forward they are clipped on, but it's not that big a deal.

I forgot that there were different models of "new york" kryptonite locks. The one I was referring to is this one (just a U-lock, no chain):

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407610363&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock+new+york

It's kind of small which is a downside but the upside is that its really hard for anyone to get themselves in any sort of position to get a really good angle on it with bolt cutters. In that video the guy demonstrated with the chain lying flat on the ground, which is of course a lot easier to cut like that. I have my doubts that he'd be able to do that with the u-lock above when it is locked securely to a bike frame. Not to mention that the lock above is 18mm thick, not sure how thick the chain was that was cut in the video.

No, one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IEJ0GC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can cut part of the handle off so it fits in a saddle bag, works amazingly well.

Kool stop Bead Jack

here you go dude and/or dudette:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html


I would stay away from that coil lock, as it can be snipped in about 10 seconds or less.

I use this combo for a $1300 bike:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This may also work for you at a lower price:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498851267&sr=8-1&keywords=u+lock

Take a look at the Axiom Streamliner DLX. It's the only reasonably priced rack of its sort that i've seen. Instead of requiring eyelets, it attaches at the quick release and the brake caliper bolt, has some setback from the quick release to avoid heel strike, and is specifically designed for road bikes.

From the photos I would say the seller doesn't practice good chain maintenance. The big chainring looks very knackered, there are teeth badly worn. This is usually a result of someone not knowing that chains need to be replaced regularly or putting it off. I can't say for certain from the photos but the cassette and chain probably need to be replaced. There is a cheap tool - any bike shop could also check it for you.

I've got a set of Pedro's tire levers, plus a tire jack to help get the tire back on. It's still an incredibly daunting task. I'm sure I'll get faster with practice, but I still hate doing it.

This shit changed my life.

I was considering this one like you mentioned, but the bike has front and rear quick wheel connects. I want to prevent someone from stealing the rear wheel+hub motor for example without needing 2 locks (like you have).

> https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

How about you fix your horrible horrible horrible links in the future so that the spam filters don't nail you? I've taken this post out of the spam bin but won't again.

My rear light of choice has a very fast blink rate--seizure fast--so the problem of it being off half the time isn't a problem.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has two blink settings, one of which is disco-fast. There'd be no way to look my direction only when it was between blinks. In fact, if you could look at a rider only when a blinking light was off, I'd call that 'pulsing' and not blinking. I'm also not sold on the idea that it will cause a problematic distraction. The point of a blinking light is to distract--to distract that driver away from their phone call, wandering mind, etc., and get their attention on you.

I personally haven't had a problem when I've been driving or riding and seen rapidly blinking lights--and I notice them faster.

You can get a good u lock and cable for about $40 in the US. If you are not in a high theft area like New York City I would go with this lock and cable. https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 Or this one. https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Double-Team-PITBULL-U-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPKBWI Lock the back wheel and frame with the u lock and the front wheel with the cable. The onguard locks are also a good deal. The higher security ones are relatively cheap compared to abus and kyrptonite, but they are heavy and probably overkill unless you are in a high theft area.

If you are in NY, SF, DC and you plan on locking it up unattended I would get two onguard brute locks, or two other locks that have to be cut twice. The locks are thick enough that an angle grinder or very large boltcutters are needed to break the lock. It would require a thief to use an angle grinder and cut at least 4 times to steal the bike. It is hard to get the right positioning to cut that many times and no one is going to that much trouble for a cheap hybrid bike when there are much easier and more valuable targets.

Just get the New York fahgettaboutit lock (should work for Boston!). They tested it by locking a bike up for 30 days and nights in one of the worst parts of New York City...the bike was eventually stripped all the way down but thieves were unable to cut through the lock and steal the frame. So tell thieves, "forget about it" (fahgettaboutit) with this lock, http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU