(Part 2) Top products from r/cyclocross

I've used both the TRP (Tektro Racing Products) CX9's and cheap Tektro Mini V's.

TRP CX9: http://www.amazon.com/TRP-CX-9-Mini-V-Brake-Set/dp/B004C966DK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343829859&sr=8-1&keywords=trp+cx9

Tektro Mini-V brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-926A-L-Pull-Brake-Black/dp/B001F2USVS/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1343829905&sr=1-3&keywords=tektro+mini+v

As far as braking performance is concerned, they both worked very well (MUCH MUCH better than cantilever brakes). As you can see there is a massive difference in price between the two brake sets. The CX9's are nicer, but I'll list the advantages I've noticed, and you can decide whether it is worth the price difference for you. Side note: Try to find some used, I got my set for $40 I think?

Advantages of the CX9's:
-Lighter (but not by much, 40 grams for the set I think?)
-Much nicer hardware (titanium hardware, and hex bolts instead of phillips)
-Stays in adjustment longer (don't have to tweak the return spring tension nearly as often)
-Better design for CX bikes (some people run into issues with the Tektros not clearing the frame when releasing the brake to change wheels)
-Cartridge-style brake pads instead of the ones where you replace the entire pad and hardware.

In general, yes, mini-v brakes will improve your braking performance, but there are compromises. Modulation is more limited than with cantis, takes some getting used to. Clearance issues, the pads will be closer to the rim, making it easier for them to get gunked up. More importantly (to me at least) is if your wheel takes a big hit and goes a little out of true, the rim will rub on the brake more easily. This can be an issue when racing, but less so for casual riding, becase you can stop to either true the wheel, or reduce cable tension to move the brake pads out and get you home.

Just returned from morning ride and noted a few more things...

I did add also a mirror to handle bars. This one to be exact.

This head light lasts over 12 hours:

The tail light it came with -- blah -- have a more robust one.

Also it took a while to find the right spot for air pump. I am considering a bag eventually but for now this is the location that works best. Other locations obstructed loading it on the carrier. Or it simply falls off the clip it came with, so I use one of the removable zip ties to wrap around the pump itself for now. If it stays in this location, I will trim the zip-ties shorter.

These are the pedals the store (REI) had on this one. I wanted to invest more time on the bike before considering switching to clipless -- to sort of "earn" 'em.

This post morning run bike picture.

Whatever shoes you get make sure they either have or can take toe spikes. They make running up a muddy hill so much easier!

I've used Shimano PD-M520 spd pedals for three years now, with no complaints. Even if you miss a clip in, or if it's clogged and you can't, there's enough of a pedal there you can still lay some power down.

For shoes, last summer I got Shimano's M162 shoe. It's been pretty good, except for some cosmetic stuff. They have removable toe spikes so if the race isn't muddy, or doesn't have a super steep run up, you can still run pretty good in them.

+1 to everything everyone else has been saying, and also something which I haven't seen mentioned yet:

Some people prefer gel pads in their gloves, other prefer the gel on the handlebars under the wraps, for example this.

Personally I have a JakeTheSnake which I ride with gel gloves, and a pure road bike (custom build) with gel on the bars. For long rides (100km+) I find the bar gel to be more comfortable and provide better numbness relief. I've done similar distances on the Jake, but my posture is a bit different on that and bar gel there does nothing for me.

So anyhoo just be aware of that option, some people find it helpful.

i've shared this link a couple times. never used them myself but the reviews are positive drop bar ends

I'm about 190 lbs and keep my clinchers at 40 in the rear and 35 in the front for whatever I'm doing unless I'm hauling something heavy on my back. When I first started out, though, I would keep them around 55/45 and would still manage to pinch flat because bike handling. Carry a couple extra tubes and a pump with you until you get used to doing off road things on a road like bike - you'll only learn by doing.

These things are a lifesaver, by the way.

If you live somewhere that's not too muddy, consider switching to V-brakes in the front. This is even more true if you're particularly tall and have a long headtube. These are cheap enough to give it a go.

I made the switch this year and wish I had done it the second I got my bike.

I used the Da Vinci bike hooks. they work pretty well.

They make them in both 9 and 10 speeds. With the XT 9/10 speed stuff you need specific derailleur for 9 or 10 speed for some reason.

The rear D for 9 speed is the M772 or M773. Also, the Deore SGS is a good choice, this is what came on my bike and it's the same derailleur, just a bit heavier.

The 10 speed rear is the M781

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20020-Fertilizer-Herbicides-Pesticides/dp/B000E2EZBO

much more gentle, plus you can use it anywhere

Here's what i did the last 3 weeks:

• Earlly morning 20 minute trailruns with a couple short 10 second sprints two times per week
  
  
• monday - thursday: commuting per bike in Z2/Z3. Total of 1.5h riding time per day.
  
  
• friday: Recovery day (time for beer degustation)
  
  
• saturday: 30 minutes skill training, than 3x10 Z4
  
  
• sunday: about 3h Z2 joyride
  
  Everything ridden with the cx-bike (well, not the last week, because i'm waiting for new tires to arrive since the old ones are done. Had to ride the roadbike)
  
  Next week is recovery week and after that, the next period, wich will be slightly tougher, starts.
  
  The plan is taken from taken from Simon Burneys book and slightly adapted to my needs. Since this is my first season of cyclocross, i expect to get my ass handed by everybody else, despite doing a structured training plan. It's just the way i like to train :-)
  

No worries - cycling is full of random terms that you have to get wrong a few times before you start to sound like a real cyclist!

As far as long-term plans - you can't go wrong with anything by Joe Friel

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201

And again, there's nothing wrong with an intense program this year so you can get some racing under your belt - just know the limitations of it. Also, since cross is so technical, a season of racing on a shortened training plan will probably do you wonders next year. That way you won't have any jitters and will know what you're in for.

Also, "Base Building for Cyclists" is very good as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Base-Building-Cyclists-Foundation-Performance/dp/193138293X

They are $6.40 a set on Amazon. I am tempted to put these on my single speed.

I didn't realize this was a rhetorical question that you just wanted folks to agree with you on. If you're that worried - do it right and use a protractor.

http://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm

https://www.amazon.com/12-PROTRACTOR-GONIOMETER-SET-AMS/dp/B000MZRQXC

Put your old shoes on measure the angles then put the new shoes on and make adjustments.

The couple I know of are the Avid Solid Sweep G3s and the Carver Mud Runner CX.

There's also the Hayes Mudcutters, which aren't entirely solid, but have much less cutout that most rotors, and are way cheaper than the prior two mentioned.

• Tuck them into the skinsuit
  
  
• Put keys in a magnetic box attached to the underside of your car.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WXGLS2/
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTOUG0/

Take your car key (or clicker fob) off the ring, lock the doors. Place it in one of these (or similar). Lock it through your car door handle (or roof rack bar, etc.). That's what I do. Problem solved.

https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5400D-Set-Your-Own-Combination/dp/B0002YP1VC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504104694&sr=8-3&keywords=key+lock+box