(Part 2) Top products from r/dirtgame

Just couple of suggestions on the audio. I don't know what you have access to for editing but a few things to try.

If you put a side chained compressor on the game audio when there is gaps in the speaking the game volume will increase in volume to level things out. To do this you would run your voice into the sidechain section of a compressor hooked up to the game volume. Set the attack as fast as possible and a medium - long length of the release. Keep a fairly low ratio maybe 4:1 or so and just reduce the threshold until you start hearing a good amount of gain reduction.

Another is to set up a compressor on your voice. Just a basic fast attack and medium - long release. The ratio depends but use from 2:1 up to 4:1. Basically what this will do is when you start speaking louder it will make gain reductions to help keep a consistent volume.

You can also set up a basic EQ to try to kill unnecessary frequencies and harsh ones. Anything above 17-20Khz is unneeded. Humans typically can't hear above 20k and sometimes it can produce high pitched noise that can be annoying/painful to hear. Anything below 20hz should absolutely be removed. You cannot hear below those frequencies but might cause your sub woofer to pump. Think of the feeling you get when there is an explosion in a movie. If you want to do some minor EQ to the voice try to stick to subtractive EQ instead of additive. Basically reduce 1 frequency to make another more prominent in the mix.

Finally if you are not already using it get something like a popper pad or a foam cover for the for the microphone. This will reduce the popping noise you hear when you say words that begin with "P" "B" etc.

If you can as well reduce input gain of the microphone or add a compressor before recording. When you record you should see a visual representation of the gain input/output like this. If you see this reaching red then you are clipping. Clipping causes distortion and can make the sound break apart. Sometimes it is best to have a relatively low input gain, which will make it sound quiet, and then raise the gain after and use a compressor to prevent clipping. Soft clip will help keep the dynamics intact which will allow the volume to fluctuate more. Hard clip will keep a more stable volume but eliminate a lot of the sounds dynamics.

I'm using a Fanatec CSR wheel with a Clubsport Table Clamp and a Logitech Joystick as a handbrake. I'm also using the standard CSR pedal set. I got into sim-racing several years ago when I was in middle school, so I saved up money one summer to buy the wheel and pedals alone. I started the same way as you are playing now, with a controller and Forza 2/GT4, and just worked my way up when I realized that I wanted to take it more seriously. If you're looking to buy a wheel, I would buy a used Logitech Driving Force GT and use the attached sequential shifter as a handbrake. The pedal set does not have a clutch, but I don't use it in DiRT Rally (or any other competitive sim) anyway. The DFGT attaches to most tables easily, has very good force feedback, and is compatible with PC. It's the only wheel my friend uses, and he is a very fantastic driver.

There is an option in DiRT to drive using a manual transmission but without a clutch, which is what I use. I prefer to drive this way so that I do not have to focus on clutch actuation while I'm racing, and can simply focus on the corners. I personally prefer this option even after years of sim racing and having access to a clutch pedal.

You can use the clutch if you want to for RPM-boosting purposes, but it's not necessary for changing gears in sequential mode (it is if you pick Manual H-Pattern With Clutch). I mean, you can press it when you change gears if it makes you feel better ;)

And yeah, using a wheel button for handbrake isn't great when things get vigorous, but I've got a cheap joystick on order to help with that.

[https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Gear-Shifter-Mount-Playstation4/dp/B004FCI5V0]

Awesome, comfortable chair. Just wish it wasnt so low to the ground.

Pics: [ http://i.imgur.com/1kOPNQ1.jpg]
[http://i.imgur.com/wfxJXe0.jpg]

I started with a small investment of $99 for this.

After a month or two of still having a blast, I decided to upgrade myself to this. Then I lent my first wheel to a buddy of mine to hopefully get him interested. Once I get it back from him I'm hoping to turn it into my "Travel Rig" so I can keep racing even when I'm on travel for work.

I replaced the wheels on my desk chair with these, works great. Also added felt pads to protect the floor.

Fanatec do some nice ones, expensive though. Thrustmaster also do them.

I bought this bad boy, not real expensive. I beat and mash on it all day then it folds up to go under my desk. Very sturdy, read the reviews.

Wheel Stand Pro

What do you mean by not set up for Eyefinity? I'm using NVIDIA Surround, which does the same thing as the AMD Eyefinity.

My field of view setting in DR is 0.2, which is already too wide for a realistic cockpit view with my current monitor setup.

My monitors are mounted on a fixed triple monitor mount (http://www.amazon.co.uk/NewStar-FPMA-D700D3-Flat-Screen-Mount/dp/B0072LX8WC), so i can't use wider field of view in a realistic way.

What do you have it all mounted to? I have a Wheel Stand Pro https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Stand-Pro-Wheelstand-Thrustmaster/dp/B00KL4BWO8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wheel+stand+pro+xbox&qid=1555603339&s=electronics&sr=1-5
I'm thinking about how to mount, not sure if Thrustmasters Racing Clamp will work with my Stand. http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/tm-racing-clamp