Top products from r/diyaudio

We found 80 product mentions on r/diyaudio. We ranked the 492 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/diyaudio:

u/not1frak · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Velodyne is good stuff. Certainly well suited for HT applications. Music less so, but will do just fine even still.

I agree that it wouldn't be worth the effort, but still a fun project none the less. Just need to be cognizant of what those woofers are good at and what they aren't. They'll do home theater stuff to a degree, but they're better suited to thumpy music in a car or garage or otherwise non-critical music-listening focused environment.

Funny you mention couch shakers; I fully agree! I actually have a pair of inexpensive Aurasound tactile transducers bolted to my couch in my home theater specifically because my mains (30+ year-old electrostats) are not offering up any "impact", and my subwoofer is on a foam isolation pad, so it doesn't impart vibrations into my raised wooden sub-floored house; because of young children sleeping and WAF and all that...

The best thing you could hope to do to your HT bass or even 2ch HiFi bass in a given listening room is to have two separete/discrete subwoofers strategically placed in the room - even if they are not stellar subwoofers. This will reduce or eliminate "bass modes" in your listening area. That is to say: two subwoofers on your single "LFE" output from your HT AV/R unit. Having bass emanated from two separate sources in your listening area will help to negate these bass modes and provide you with more even distribution throughout your listening area, dramatically improving perceived bass response.

u/Shake_Oh · 1 pointr/diyaudio

To add on to this:

Xenyx 802 - $60

This will be good for a stereo application. It is cheap and will sound great. Plus it will give you the needed control for a stereo setup, of using one mic for left and the other for right.

Samson C02 pair - $75-$140

These microphones are relatively cheap, even at their price ceiling.
They use a Cardioid pick up pattern that is seems slightly Super Cardioid. They're sold in pairs, so you will only need one order.

Lyxpro SDPC-2 - $100

These microphones are packed with features at their price point. Plus they sound great, so they're extremely competitive. They come with 3 capsules for both microphones so you can choose between Omni, Cardioid & Super Cardioid. You'll likely want to use Cardioid or Super Cardioid, depending on your use case.

SDPC-2 or C02?

Mainly comes down to this: Price at time of purchase - are they the same? Which is more important to you - Omni & Super Cardioid pick up patterns or a good shock mount? The patterns means purchase the Lyxpro, the shock mount means purchase the Samson.

Are they different prices? Do the features justify the price gap?


Stereo Microphone Bar - ~$10

You'll need one of these or something similar.

Scissor Arm - $20

You'll want one if you don't have one yet. Or if it is better suited go for a Boom Stand.

2 XLR Cables - $12

Cheap cables. They aren't OFC so you can look into slightly more expensive options. Maybe even make some yourself! :D

RCA to 3.5mm - $8

YOU NEED THIS. This is how you are going to connect from the mixer to the computer.

--EDIT-- You are looking at roughly $210 for the entire setup. Which isn't all that bad seeing as it will be 2 microphones.

u/phobos2deimos · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

For the price, I think the Pyle 8 channel amp that somebody posted is a great choice. Here's and Amazon link, a little cheaper than B&H. Seems to have good reviews, although I really doubt it's 1000w/ch. Probably something like ~150RMS. Pyle's okay, and GREAT when you consider the price. I've got a few stupid-cheap Pyle amps and speakers here and there and they're fine. Cool thing about that amp is that you could break the zones into different audio sources if you want.
I'd pair it with these - you might not even need a woofer.
When you set the system up listen carefully for clipping/distortion and label your nominal operating level and your 'ABSOLUTELY DO NOT GO LOUDER THAN THIS' level in big bright labels.
If you do end up getting a sub I second /r/CashKeyboard's recommendation to go with an active (aka Powered) sub, and remember placement is important for getting the most out of it.

u/coherent-rambling · 1 pointr/diyaudio

That's a tough budget since you're starting with some pretty bassy speakers to begin with - I've never heard the C-Notes, but they're supposed to play pretty strongly all the way down to 43 Hz. There are plenty of things on the market sold as subwoofers which can't reach below 40 Hz.

If you had smaller main speakers, I might suggest the Polk PSW10. I own one, and to be absolutely clear, it's fairly terrible. Still, it's probably the best subwoofer available for less than $200. Unfortunately, it pretty much bottoms out at 40 Hz; you might get a tiny bit lower with room gain, and it can throw marginally more power at the bass notes than your bookshelf speakers can, but ultimately you won't get much improvement.

The next step up is probably the BIC F12. At more than double your budget, it's the cheapest subwoofer I've ever seen someone recommend without qualifiers. They don't seem to publish an f3 (again, sketchy), but reviews suggest that it can go fairly low, and it's got a decent amount of power.

There's not much else to recommend until you have at least $300 to spend. However, once you hit that threshold, there are a ton of options, some which have really spectacular performance. If I were you, I'd carry on with just the C-Notes and save up for a while, and then look at getting a Dayton 10" Reference kit with the recommended SPA-250 amplifier, or an HSU VTF-1 Mk3.

u/megohm · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

[Glen Ballou's book] ( has a lot of really good information in it. Also , this [one] ( from Forrest Mims is cheap effective. Learning some BEE (basic electronics and electricity) is a great place to start. The one /u/tvdf mentioned has a ton of useful information as well. Good luck, it's a lot of fun once you get started!

u/Uncle_Erik · 19 pointsr/diyaudio


u/Sluisifer · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

If you just want to buy something, the SMSL SA50 is a great choice.

It's well built, has plenty of power unless you're speakers have low sensitivity or it's a big space, and the audio quality is unsurprisingly terrific. Amps are pretty much a 'solved problem', and while you can deliberately color your sound with tubes and the like, simple and accurate amplification is pretty easy to achieve.

u/JohnBooty · 8 pointsr/diyaudio

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

u/meezun · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

At least read Why your first speaker should be a proven design. If your goal is not to embark on speaker design as a hobby, but to build one pair of kick-ass speakers for personal use, build a kit.

Now if your goal is to learn speaker design, go for it. Here's a book that's frequently recommended. This is a "read a book" topic, not an ask on Reddit and then do some google searches topic.

I'd like to suggest that you go with an active crossover. A miniDSP will allow you to do a lot of tweaking of your crossover without spending a ton of money on different passive components that you won't use. Once you have finalized on something you like you can always build a passive equivalent and use the miniDSP for your next project.

u/chazmotazz · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

The process is way less complicated than you think.

You didn't mention which model of those speakers you have, but it looks like they all have 1/4" mono inputs. To use those connections you'll need an 1/8" stereo mini plug to dual mono 1/4" plug cable (e.g.

As for you computer outputs, you'll want to use the headphone or L/R channel jack (typically green and labeled with a headphone symbol). Configure your sound mixer software to output 2 channel stereo. There is also a good chance it will default to stereo output with something connected to the stereo output jack.

This is the best explanation I can give without more details about the specific equipment.

u/picmandan · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

The smallest DIY sub that I could recommend would be Paul Carmody's Voxel. Based on a 5-1/4" driver, it can be made for about US$75 with amp and gets down to about 35Hz, but not very loud. It might be a good fit for the Kantos, you'd have to decide.

This 10" kit for US$197 seems like it would be close to your target, but it'd be more as you'd need an amp. One of their recommendations is the Dayton Audio SPA250 plate amplifier (for US$156), making this fairly pricey. Maybe use the Dayton Audio 10" Classic and a less expensive amp for some savings.

There are some decent non-DIY budget offerings, including the Dayton Audio SUB-1000 for about USD$120, the Dayton Audio SUB-1200 for about USD$150, and the BIC F12 for about USD$200.

Edit: I've not yet done a DIY sub. My own recommendation from all of the suggestions to date (including the pretty decent Pioneer) would be to look very closely at the DA SUB-1000 for your needs.

There's a little information in this thread regarding SUB-1000 vs Pioneer SW-8.



u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 1 pointr/diyaudio

If space is tight, you don’t want a home theater receiver. They’re typically about 44cm wide. The Lepai is truly tiny so it probably makes more sense, however you should know going in that, iirc, they do not really produce 20 watts per channel. I believe somebody actually tested one and the actual RMS (sustained wattage) is 8 Watts per channel.

Last I checked, the SMSL SA50 (roughly $70 usd) was your best bet for a powerful tiny amp, with something like 30w/channel. Plus it looks really nice (tiny black box with a power switch and big volume knob on the front.

Both the Lepai and SMSL are really tiny. Practically pocket-sized.

u/likeabaws69 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70

port tubes $5.14

filter parts $17.19

amp $16.99

battery $15

battery charger $20

u/Berict · 1 pointr/diyaudio



Not sure about the ohm of the speakers, but what would I gain by using all 4 channels 1 speaker per channel as opposed to my current set up which is outputting 2 speakers on the first 2 channels, I does work and sounds great, but I was just wanting to make sure I get the most out of it.

u/Armsc · 1 pointr/diyaudio

What is your budget for this project? Are you looking to get a 2.1 or a true 5.1 out of the deal? You mentioned a 2.1 for parties for then said something about all six which I interpret as a 5.1.

Those speakers are 4ohm rated and most of your lower end AVR's are going to be rated for 8ohm. You're going to burn up a cheaper AVR if you put those speakers on it in a 5.1 config. You could run both the front and rear L/R in a series to raise the ohm load higher which would really help out the AVR. However, you'll need to find a receiver with a passive sub output which will probably be tough. The're out of luck on unless you find a cheap 4 ohm receiver.

If you want bottom of barrel cheap I would get this Lepai amp and run two speakers or four in series with the sub for a 2.1 setup for your parties. Even then I think I would probably be looking for a different solution.

u/shard13 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more:

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: or if you just need power for the sub then

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses:

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Ordinarily you would use a charger configured for the same voltage as your series-connected cells. It's also better practice to use larger cells instead of a series-parallel connection. It's a lot easier, actually, to use a battery already configured for your purposes.

If I were doing what you're trying to do, I'd go with a total 12-volt system. This amplifier contains the bluetooth receiver so all that would be taken care of almost automatically. It is also rated close to the Sure amplifier you were looking at. You could still use the Sure amplifier, though it would have somewhat less power on 12 volts.

Here is a battery/charger combination that will provide a bit more capacity than you would get with your design.

If you want to charge the battery and use the amplifier at the same time, you would need to make up a special cable for the charger with a current-limiting resistor to avoid damaging the charger.

Hope this helps.

u/MGStan · 4 pointsr/diyaudio

I really like my SMSL amp for my OS MTs hooked up to my desktop.

It's Class-D so very efficient and small. Pretty good price and comes with a decent external power supply. But for the $65 price you won't be getting any extra features on that model. Just RCA in and binding posts out, which is perfect for my setup.

u/PUBERT_MCYEASTY · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Jeff Bagby has a good excel spreadsheet with baked-in formulas. However, it's difficult to use unless you have a good base understanding of what you're doing. Some good books to get you started are the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook and Speaker Building 201.
Keep in mind that it is absolutely necessary to have measurement equipment if you want to design anything and be able to point out what is wrong. Even if you have perfect pitch, actually quantifying what you're hearing in a speaker is really hard to do, and honestly can probably only come from lots of experience listening and then measuring to be able to recognize what is off.

Still, I recommend you just build an existing design.

u/WildCheese · 1 pointr/diyaudio

oh ok sweet. then I could keep a pack charging and a pack on my backpack. I sometimes spend 6 to 8 hours wearing it so its important to either have a long battery life or quick charging/battery swapping. getting the weight down would be awesome.

Are these the batteries you tested as working fine on the lepai?

u/MommaSaidSpockYouOut · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Something like this?

Is there a better option? I appreciate your help.

u/Retrovertigo1 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

this is the best i know of that covers many subjects in the world of audio. its directed toward sound engineers but a lot of would be of interest to you. breakdowns on things like acoustics, sound treatment, electronics, ad/da and a ton more. take a look at the table of contents.

u/bradenlikestoreddit · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.

So updated setup -
Wiring Kit -

Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine

Amp -

Same speakers and subs.

You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?

u/Umlautica · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

The good news is that everything is already wired for sound, the bad news is that you'll need to buy amp(s) in order to use the speakers. The cable that you're holding up is RCA and is not powerful enough to drive a speaker. You'll need something like a multi-zone amp for 6 channels if you want to use all of the speakers in the house. These are ambient house speakers and not speakers set up for a home theater though right?

An option that might work well if you like Chromecast is to buy two or three pairs of this SMSL SA50 amps with the Chromecast Audio devices. This would also allow you to control multiple zones for music using each Chromecast audio. Each Chromecast Audio connects with each amp using a 3.5mm to RCA cable and then each SMSL amp connects to the gold terminals on the wall using speaker cable.

u/dcoolidge · -1 pointsr/diyaudio

For those speakers I would get something like this and find a good 12v power adapter...

u/grantd86 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I recabled my Grados with one of these by clipping off the 1/4 inch ends and soldering to the drivers in the headphones. There is way more length there than you need which leaves you options and the cable is nice and thick. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing to secure the Y split.

u/immanence · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Thanks! Yeah, I'm not afraid of doing the soldering. I'll lay out the whole setup, as you can see it is fairly low end, which is why I don't want to spend a lot on the preamp:

I'm going to pick up a U-Turn Orbit Plus:

I already have speakers and a power amp, but I'd like to get a tube pre-amp for the turntable. My power amp and speakers are nothing special:

T Amp:

Fluance bookshelf speakers:

u/majorscheiskopf · 1 pointr/diyaudio

The Q5 is fine, especially if you want a subwoofer out, but if you don't need a DAC (hint, you almost definitely don't need a DAC), you can spend half as much for the SA50, which has 50% more power per channel at 8 ohms. The SA50 is also tiny.

u/thinman · 1 pointr/diyaudio

T-amp is the way to go, as others have said.

This one seems ideal

You connect the two bottom black connectors and the two bottom red ones to create a "68w" mono sub output and it has the crossover control in the front. It's far more powerful than you need but it's small, stealthy, and I don't see how you would beat the price for amp+crossover.

u/sphykik · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I'm just finishing up a portable bluetooth speaker. You need a 12v battery (5v ones are for charging phones and other small devices) - this is the one I used.

The Lepai runs on a 12v power supply. The TDA7492 can run on 8-24v. You will get more power out of the amp when giving it a higher voltage, generally.

Assuming you go the bluetooth route - you can find 5v and 12v bluetooth boards. I'd go with 12v since you can use the same battery without a step-down converter. If you want to add a 5v output to your suitcase, for bluetooth or phone charging, Talentcell makes a battery with 12v and 5v. It's only a few dollars more.

u/ZeosPantera · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

The lepai 2020 will work with this battery . And for a good long time too.

u/FatFingerHelperBot · 1 pointr/diyaudio

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!

Here is link number 1 - Previous text "amp"

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u/jallsopp · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

All you need is an amplifier and a source. Something like this SMSL SA50 should be more than enough. Twist the copper ends so they're not frayed then hook them up. All you need to do then is plug in your source (phone...) with an RCA to 3.5mm cable.

u/Dimmed_skyline · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Several options.

You can buy a regular stereo amplifier and a subwoofer plate amplifier. Most sub plate amps have high frequency pass-thoughts so you put it between the stereo and the speakers to extract the lows.

You can buy a 2.1 plate amp. This way you can skip the amp on your desk for a cleaner look. They tend to be much more expensive for the wattage though.

Or if you want to try something more DIY you can try a 2.1 desk amp. Just pick the transformer/ power supply, a box, knobs, power and audio plugs. 1 2

You can also just buy premade 2.1 desk amps but I can't speak for the quality of chinese made amps. 1 2 3

I suggest just buying the Lepai LP-168HA

u/Trick5ter · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

You just need this -

Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)

Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.

u/ManBearPixel · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Yeah I has to dig around and look at Amazon answers for more wattage information initially myself. This is what happens when I go the cheapest route initially with rumblers just to test it out.

I'm planning on buying one
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker for the final rumbler. But before I drop $50 for it, I'd rather test out a cheaper product first.

u/_______butts_______ · 1 pointr/diyaudio

My bad must've messed up the copy paste. The model is a Behringer Xenyx 802.

I have a general understanding of what I need to do, connecting the ports on my PC/sound card to the mixer but I could use help on the details and I'm not sure how to split the audio to different ports on the same card so they can be routed to the mixer channels.

u/RoadHustler · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

INSMA Amplifier Board TDA7492P Audio Receiver Amplifiers DIY Module 25W Dual Channel

u/AbsentMindedMedicine · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black)

I built a set for my girlfriend a while back, paired them with this. They sounded tremendous.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

Non-mobile: this

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/jackubt · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Similar to this. Its not great quality though and I've never had a chance to fully test battery life yet but I think it would last at least 4 hours on full volume continuously.

u/Beegeezee505 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

this one

I remove them from the casing and cut out their switch. I also wire it up to a dc plug so that I can use the same charger that the battery comes with.

link to plug

u/TrackieDaks · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

My bad, hosa.

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet

u/ztoundas · 1 pointr/diyaudio

My bad, I meant to post this one (the ones I actually bought)

u/TophatMcMonocle · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

I have a BIC F12 under my computer desk and I'm real happy with it. It's not up to filling a living room with deep bass at high SPLs, but it provides plenty of clean low bass in a desktop setup. It extends much lower than the little Dayton or most smaller inexpensive subs. For a few years now, these have earned a reputation of being a "go to" low budget subwoofer. It's big, but I still have room under the desk for my computer tower, waste basket, paper shredder, and feet.

u/deathsupafire · 1 pointr/diyaudio

You could use the mtx ones. It would get you over the crossover design, but you would still have to find a place for them in your design. Also, its hard to tell your design specifically, but it looks like the woofers are just attached to tubes. If thats the case, the woofers are going to be lacking a ton of base. In a proper enclosure, 5 1/2 in drivers could probably be expected to reach down to somewhere in the 50Hz range, possibly a little lower if you have the right set up. If I have your design correct, I would guess that your lowest bass would be somewhere up in the 150 - 200 Hz range, or right around the end of the human vocal spectrum. There would be no base below that and the speaker will sound very hollow.

This would be the reference I would send you to to get the information you need, but be warned that the information is very technically, it took me 2 - 3 reads to understand the information, and then go back and follow along with the calculations.

Loudspeaker Design Cookbook