(Part 2) Top products from r/diyaudio

[Glen Ballou's book] (http://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Sound-Engineers-4th-Edition/dp/0240809696/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=17XRBA75YDQ47T230Q36) has a lot of really good information in it. Also , this [one] (http://www.amazon.com/Timer-Amp-Optoelectronic-Circuits-Projects/dp/0945053290/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1406325087&sr=1-1&keywords=timers+and+op+amps) from Forrest Mims is cheap effective. Learning some BEE (basic electronics and electricity) is a great place to start. The one /u/tvdf mentioned has a ton of useful information as well. Good luck, it's a lot of fun once you get started!

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca

sounds above my iq grade but a real stellar idea...

So I could get this: https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=zg_bs_389574011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4KS108G7HZRV4KP2DW1J

and something like this: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Battery-Tender-reg/734156.uts?productVariantId=3889810&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03913618&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_ZrXBRDXARIsAA8KauSl6RB8_k3tjvSa-RMkw1E3QEnAKG3qsLVUDwcGoMs5PBzu1WslmZIaAmD2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and something like this: https://www.ebay.com/p/12v-to-9v-Dc-dc-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Voltage-Regulator-D/1468959390?iid=183113006956&chn=ps

Not sure I understand the best battery to pick given I don't know how to calculate or predict the necessary amperage rating...

would the order go: wall outlet -> battery tender -> battery -> 12v to 9v converter -> to amp board??

Also thank you for your time and for responding!

Heck yes, it makes a difference!

This is not something I've studied deeply yet, but I have a couple of resources for you:

• Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook goes into detail about various enclosures and is very helpful. Great book, and $15 for a used copy is a good investment.
  
  
• Ethan Winer's website has loads of information about acoustics. While not about loudspeaker design, I think you'll learn a lot.

I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

• handle $3
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
  
  
• optional $11 voltmeter + USB charger ports
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
  
  
• plus another ~$12 in other misc build materials
  
  After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
  
  What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
  

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Those are passive speakers. On the wall are terminals for the speakers. Each pair is for one speaker. To use these with your TV you will need some kind of amplifier/receiver. You can also use a stereo amplifier if you use only the left and right speakers. If your TV has a headphone jack, you can get good results with a very simple, inexpensive amplifier like this and a cable like this. Using the headphone jack will let the TV remote control the volume.

You can test the speakers by just tapping a regular old 9-volt battery to the terminals. When you tap it the speaker will make a loud pop. Don't CONNECT the battery, just tap it momentarily on the terminals.

Have fun!

The equalization and level on the phono inputs won't give desirable results.

I'd use one of the tape inputs with a Bluetooth adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3RXQDbJKV9ZQ1

If your tape inputs are already in use, add an rca switch like this so you can connect more than one device to the same input.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRPATRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gTXQDb4NKG0QT

There may be better versions of these devices out there. I just linked the first search results on Amazon to help provide clarity.

They make super cheap amplifier boards like this that would probably work perfectly. On the cheaper (read:crappier) ones, their gain is dependent on the input voltage, so using a higher voltage adapter will get you the most range.

You could get a stereo one and just run the single channel through it.

Jeff Bagby has a good excel spreadsheet with baked-in formulas. However, it's difficult to use unless you have a good base understanding of what you're doing. Some good books to get you started are the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook and Speaker Building 201.
Keep in mind that it is absolutely necessary to have measurement equipment if you want to design anything and be able to point out what is wrong. Even if you have perfect pitch, actually quantifying what you're hearing in a speaker is really hard to do, and honestly can probably only come from lots of experience listening and then measuring to be able to recognize what is off.

Still, I recommend you just build an existing design.

This is a great company, I have a pair of their older speakers and they sound great.

Speakers: $344.50

http://www.amazon.com/SpeakerCraft-OE5-One-Outdoor-Speaker/dp/B0017LADVW/ref=sr_1_6?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1394418175&sr=1-6&keywords=speakercraft+outdoor

Amplifier: $100

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418458&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ausiosource+amp-100

RCA Cable: $10

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418952&sr=8-13&keywords=rca+cable

Speaker Cable: $10

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419011&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+cable

For Wireless music, Bluetooth receiver, $32

http://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Bluetooth-Receiver-System/dp/B009OBCAW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419052&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+music+receiver

Total Cost: $496.50

By far the easiest thing to do will be to retain the player and feed it sound from your computer using either the optical connection or a simple adapter to the AUX in. If your computer has an optical port, that'll be a bit better and might actually support 5.1 depending on the content you're playing. The analog input will only be 2-channel or 2.1, depending on how the amp works. Still, that'll cover most content on a PC.

That's about all you can do without spending way more money than it's worth.

this is the best i know of that covers many subjects in the world of audio. its directed toward sound engineers but a lot of would be of interest to you. breakdowns on things like acoustics, sound treatment, electronics, ad/da and a ton more. take a look at the table of contents. http://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Sound-Engineers-Glen-Ballou/dp/0240809696

Honestly, amps are one of the things that you're not going to get better quality for your your $ if you DIY.

DIY for fun, to learn or because you want to build something specific/oddball (like a 3 channel setup that I did once). If those are your goals by all means find a DIY project.
But, the fact you specifically stated you're looking for a cheap amp to power those speakers makes me think you're just looking for a cheap amp.

Also, spending that much money on an amp ($200) for a pair of speakers worth $130 is a bad way to spend your money to be honest. 50/20/20/10 budget split is the rule, speaker/room treatment/amp/everything else and when you can't or don't want to treat the room, then that budget goes into the speaker.

Get yourself an SMSL SA-50 for $66. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/

You will NEVER learn everything. I guarantee it.

This book is a great place to start on speaker design.

Kit speakers are a fun construction project but if you really want to learn, design your own from scratch. It will consume hundreds of hours of your time to do it well.

Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.


So updated setup -
Wiring Kit - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4


Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine


Amp - https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1


Same speakers and subs.


You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?

Thanks for your response! But I think that’s what I ended up with.

I started with this cable:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MU3TY2O?ref_=pe_1822470_153573050_E_Asin_Title

When that didn’t work, I guessed an infinity loop was happening so I attached a female-to-male 3.5mm to 3.5mm on the iMac side that only has 2 black stripes on it.

Where did this go wrong? Lol.

The good news is that everything is already wired for sound, the bad news is that you'll need to buy amp(s) in order to use the speakers. The cable that you're holding up is RCA and is not powerful enough to drive a speaker. You'll need something like a multi-zone amp for 6 channels if you want to use all of the speakers in the house. These are ambient house speakers and not speakers set up for a home theater though right?

An option that might work well if you like Chromecast is to buy two or three pairs of this SMSL SA50 amps with the Chromecast Audio devices. This would also allow you to control multiple zones for music using each Chromecast audio. Each Chromecast Audio connects with each amp using a 3.5mm to RCA cable and then each SMSL amp connects to the gold terminals on the wall using speaker cable.

[Oak Wood 8' x1"x6" 30$]
[4" Midwoofer 1 Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" 12$] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-tcp115-4-4-treated-paper-cone-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--295-415)
[3" Full Range 2 Dayton Audio PC83-4 3" 20$] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pc83-4-3-full-range-poly-cone-driver--295-154)
[1" Softdome Tweeter 2 Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1" 40$] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd25fa-4-1-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-059)
[3" Passive Radiator 2 830878 3-1/2" Passive Radiator 20$] (https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-830878-3-1-2-passive-radiator--264-1060)
[Crossovers 2 uxcell 2 Pcs 130W 2-Way 15$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FBNNCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#)
[2.1 100x1 50x2 Amplifer 1 AIYIMA TPA3116D2 25$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AIYIMA-Amplifiers-Audio-Board-TPA3116D2-Amplificador-2-1-Digital-Amplifier-Board-50Wx2-100W-DIY-For-Home/32841707655.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.50204c4dlBRKOI)
[26650 Rechargable Cells 6 26650 Litokala 5000mah 25$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS-LiitoKala-26650-50A-5000mah-26650-Li-ion-3-7v-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Flashlight-20A/32790517311.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4demHMaD)
[BMS 24V 1 6S 15A 24V PCB BMS Protection Board 2$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-New-Arrival-6S-15A-24V-PCB-BMS-Protection-Board-For-6-Pack-18650-Li-ion/32831085198.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.50204c4dlBRKOI)
[Bluetooth Board 1 Bluetooth w/ mp3 tf fm + controls 4$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-Audio-Receiver-board-with-USB-TF-card-decoding-playback-preamp-output/32672569121.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dFmmUhf)
[Boost Controller step-up-down 1 Regulated Step-up-Down Boost controller 3$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LM2596S-DC-DC-LM2577S-Step-Up-Down-Boost-Buck-Voltage-Power-Converter-Module-Non-isolated-Constant/32857565021.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dcRs1mi)
[dc-dc 1w converter 5v 1 1w 5v dc-dc converter for bluetooth module 1$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-B0505S-1W-5V-to-5V-converter-DC-DC-power-module-converter-1000VDC-Isolation/32840613546.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.17ae4c4draS0XU)
[dc power jack 1 dc power jack 1$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1D5GIP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[3.5mm sound isolator 1 3.5mm sound isolater (filters out ground noise on line in) 10$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[power button 1 Lit power button 8$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHNLRS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Battery Holders 6 Battery Holders 10$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074H2ZJFD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Records use RIAA equalization, which means they need to be passed through a phono preamp to equalize the signal back to normal. Regular amplifiers and preamps won't work because they do not apply the necessary equalization--you will end up with lots of treble and no bass.

You can build a phono preamp on a breadboard quite easily. Elliott Sound Products has many fine phono preamp circuits such as this one. You can build the single-supply version (at the bottom of the page), power it from only 12 V, and still get satisfactory results.

Alternatively, you can get a Behringer phono preamp for $25 on Amazon. I've used one, and I have not experienced any reliability or sound quality issues.

Cool project! You mentioned that you are starting to work on flush mounting speakers. I am not sure what tools you are using for the cutting the holes, but if you do not have a Jasper Jig, I would highly recommend one. I built my last set using it, and it made the project so much easier.

Jasper Jig

This sounds like a stereo/mono conversion issue. The melody for example might play on just the right channel and the drums are in stereo. If your mic input is mono it's probably not getting both channels. You should be connecting your PC via the RCA input jacks on the back of the amp, not the mic input.

You'll need a cable similar to this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966127&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5+mm+rca

These will really help if you start to get into the hobby more:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009K77A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383050908&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009K77D/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1383050908&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

DROK TPA3116 is pretty much my go-to amp for small projects.

I run them from laptop chargers (19v 4A or so) or 16.8v via 4s 18650 cells.

I'm just finishing up a portable bluetooth speaker. You need a 12v battery (5v ones are for charging phones and other small devices) - this is the one I used.

The Lepai runs on a 12v power supply. The TDA7492 can run on 8-24v. You will get more power out of the amp when giving it a higher voltage, generally.

Assuming you go the bluetooth route - you can find 5v and 12v bluetooth boards. I'd go with 12v since you can use the same battery without a step-down converter. If you want to add a 5v output to your suitcase, for bluetooth or phone charging, Talentcell makes a battery with 12v and 5v. It's only a few dollars more.

If you're handy with a soldering iron then you can get this

2 Pack CESS 2.5mm Mono TS unbalanced male plug black cable connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPRAID6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u8NkybN6ZCBJV

And any 3.5mm stereo connector to dual RCA, like this

RCA Cable, iXCC 6ft Dual Shielded Gold-Plated 3.5mm Male to 2RCA Male Stereo Audio Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-NkybWXZVSV8

These things are available everywhere in just about any length and style. They used to be included in all sorts of electronics during the transition period between RCA and eighth inch stereo Jack's.

Anyways-

Cut off the RCA connectors and solder the outside wire (the RCA cable should have one inside the other) to the "sleeve" contact of the 2.5mm connector. Solder the inside wire to the "tip" contact. Repeat for the other side. Now you have made your own cord for like ten bucks and you can repair it easily if something goes wrong.

If not, you can use a little converter for RCA to 2.5mm mono jack, like this. The phono jack end has 3 contacts for some reason but it should work just the same. And you don't have to work with molten metal.

Monoprice 107145 2.5mm Stereo Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R6WVDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2cOkyb3DCE6KQ

I have several that I use. My standard is a Weller WLC 100 that I have been using for the last 10 years. I have built and repaired several amps with this iron.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1536350850&sr=1-4&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

Parts list:

Amp:
http://amzn.com/B016I5F4WE

Battery:
http://amzn.com/B00ME3ZH7C

Speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R14X2/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R14X2.html

Subwoofer was from an Altec Lansing computer speaker set, and the box can be had at any local military surplus store.

These

I would look at the SMSL SA-50 if I were you.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=bluetooth+receiver&qid=1565476316&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Try this http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PFA330BT-Bluetooth-Streaming-Microphone/dp/B0179LSNA6/ for $44 or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXCEDGS/ plus this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/ for $70 total

Start with reading every thing you can find and then make informed decisions from there.

https://www.amazon.com/Loudspeaker-Design-Cookbook-Vance-Dickason/dp/1882580478/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1468992574&sr=1-1&keywords=loudspeaker+design+cookbook+7th+edition

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Building-201-Comprehensive-Course/dp/1882580451/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1468992780&sr=1-1&keywords=speaker+building

https://www.amazon.com/Designing-Building-Testing-Speaker-Projects/dp/007069429X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1468992806&sr=1-2&keywords=speaker+building

Loudspeaker design cookbook is the classic reference, but it seems to be out of print...

http://www.amazon.com/Loudspeaker-Design-Cookbook-Vance-Dickason/dp/1882580338/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1418333254&sr=1-1&keywords=loudspeaker+design+cookbook

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-PP400-Microphono-Compact-assorted/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484072639&sr=8-1&keywords=phono+preamp

will this do the trick?

The 3.5mm optical cable cable is digital-only. It can't convert a digital signal to an analog one. The combination port also carries an analog signal for a 3.5mm miniplug stereo TRS or miniplug stereo + mic TRRS, but those are capabilities of the port hardware, not the cable.

Edit: I reread the question, and I get that you're looking for the jack hardware. No idea about that, sorry.

Amazon has an entry level adjustable temp Weller iron on a deal right now:

link

For your purposes even this is probably over kill.