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I never thought the flybrix was worth it...it's a gimick in my mind...

Look into the Eachine QX90...

http://www.banggood.com/Tiny-QX90-90mm-Micro-FPV-Racing-Quadcopter-BNF-Based-On-F3-Flight-Controller-FrSKY-Taranis-X9D-p-1069614.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=allison&utm_campaign=Smlrfpv-ds-58fpv&gclid=CMW10MXBrc8CFYpZhgodeW8M1A

For $55 bucks you not only get a pretty fun brushed quad, it comes with FPV too (you'll still need a video reciever for the video, but it will work the same if you don't use the FPV unit)

You will also need a Transmitter, something like a Devo7e will work...

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Walkera-Devo-7E-7CH-Transmitter-Mode-2-Without-Receiver-p-48117.html

Thats another 60 bucks...but it will bring more joy to flying than using a shitty bluetooth app...

Since the QX90 doesn't come with a reciever you'll need one...

https://www.amazon.com/Spektrum-9645-DSMX-Remote-Receiver/dp/B004M12GY6

Thats 34 bucks but I think you can find it cheaper...

I mean for a little more than the cost of the flybrix you get something that will be 100x more enjoyable to fly and not only that if you wanna spend a bit more on some FPV goggles you'll have an FPV miniquad too...So much more bang and fun for the buck...

Or you can look into the Induxtrix FPV....not released or shipped yet, but it's all the rage for indoor fun...

Your tech director seems like he thinks he's a "know it all" kinda guy...but he's pretty wrong if he thinks the flybrix is cheapiest and most robust...

Also, I know you want the ability to control via iOS/Bluetooth, but honestly you really don't. It's pretty terrible to fly anything via a phone and it teaches you bad habits. why not just go with proper equipment and not teach your students bad habits when it comes down to it? it's not much more expensive, and in the end it's gonna be a lot cheaper..as you'll still be able to use a proper Transmitter if you decide to upgrade the quads pretty much forever..with the flybrix you are kinda stuck with the app, and what happens when they stop support for the app?

Edit: the ready to fly inductrix is even cheaper and if you wanted you can get a proper transmitter for less than the flybrix...

Blade Inductrix RTF Ultra Micro Drone with Safe Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011UDQYSC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3Mv6xbTVS308F

Just look up Tiny Woop FPV and you can see how much fun and more safe it is to fly than the flybrix...i mean you weren't looking for fpv flying but it's till a cheap option if you want to move to fpv too..

Edit2: also you should know that brushed motors for these kinds of quads have a finite lifespan before the brushes wear out and you need to replace the motors...the lifespan is generally around 5hrs of use... So yeah take that into account too...

Haha, nice to teach someone ;)

You have it the wrong way around. This is how it's supposed to look. And if you unsolder the wires, you also save some space, which is pretty nice on small builds. And it looks nicer.

The nice plastic wrapping is probably some kind of heatshrink tubing. Want to heatshrink your own stuff? Get this. You just heat it up with a lighter and it shrinks to half the size. There is no problem if you take the plastic off and leave it without it, but it's more likely to short on something, a bit less water resistant (in case a drop of water lands on it), and it doesn't look as professional ;)

If you want to solder the motors directly to the ESCs (which I recommend, as it's lighter and looks neater), you can heatshrink them with this heatshrink afterwards.

The balance charger connects to the balance plug and (usually) the main plug on the battery. There are some cheap, low-power chargers that only use the balance plug. The balance plug has thinner wires, so it can't handle a high current like the main plug (which also uses a connector that handles higher current). On batteries the size of your battery, the wires will be almost the same size, but on bigger batteries the main wires are usually quite a bit thicker. The higher-power chargers use the main plug for charging/discharging (several amps) and the balance plug for balancing (usually under 2A). You should charge your batteries at around 1C, which is 1A in your case, so you don't really need a higher power charger unless you want to be able to charge several batteries at once or plan on getting something that needs bigger batteries in the future. Also, most of the lower-power chargers only have a fixed current and can't discharge the batteries or show other useful information. Most of the higher-end ones can show you the current charging current, voltage, time since starting, mAh recharged etc, and can also discharge your batteries to around 40% which is the level it's best to store batteries at.

The LiPo alarm plugs into the balance port in order to be able to measure every cell individually. This means you can't over-discharge any cell (for example if one of them is faulty and discharges faster than the others). You unplug it when you're done flying, and connect the balance charger to the same connector when you're charging.

When you want to buy a balance charger, you have a lot of different options, depending on whether you want a really cheap charger (something like this), an OK all-around charger (like this one), a charger that can charge 4 different batteries at once (like this one), or a charger that can charge 40 of the batteries you're using in parallel at once (this one). Also note that some of them only have a DC input, so you need an external power supply for them. You can for example make one out of a server power supply, or you can just buy a ready to use one.

It's unfortunately not the same as with a PC.

One of the main things that has changed the way computing works was the creation of influential hardware standards, most especially in the 90s and 2000s. Things like the ISA standard would eventually lead to the development of PCI, AGP, and eventually PCI-e and its variants. Part of the reason for this is that the PC industry, even in the 90s, was a multi-billion Dollar industry with massive global players who couldn't afford to have their equipment not work all the peripherals.

The multicopter / RC industry is, by and large, still a hobby-driven industry. Even though there are some amazing applications of it across various sectors, there simply isn't enough of a market to create and enforce standards unilaterally. Manufacturers are so used to doing their own thing that they'd be hard-pressed to put in the time and effort to retool and redevelop to support a standard.

What I'd suggest you do is buy a small quad to learn to fly, something like the Hubsan H107D, which is ~$190. You'll have a lot of fun, you'll learn the basics of FPV, you'll learn how to fly, you'll film some crazy videos, you'll learn about antennae and interference and all sorts.

Then when you're a confident flyer pick up a Taranis transmitter, should set you back ~$150 - $200, and you'll learn about radio binding, transmitter configuration, the nature of open-source RC software, and so on.

Finally, if at that stage you're still interested, sell the Hubsan and build a 250mm - 450mm sized quad. The parts list that /u/dicknuckle is an excellent start, although you'll already have a transmitter and so you won't have to buy a radio set (just a receiver).

The safe but costly approach would be to get something like a Crazepony's EMAX RS2306 2750KV motor. That motor is very powerful and should handle the weight of the Gimbel, camera, frame battery and components. If you want to be exact you need to do the math for lift, thrust and weight of the components to figure out exactly how much KV or power is needed in the 6 motors.

Assuming you are using a frame like dji f550 you should be ok with the above or a cheaper solution like the MakerFire d1104. Whichever one you pick don’t forget to post your success or failure so we know what happened.

Soldering is one of those tasks where it really pays off to invest a little bit more in your tools at the beginning. /u/1-11 mentioned the Weller WLC100 - I second this recommendation. I've had one for almost 8 years and it's never let me down, though I bought a nicer iron a few years ago (Aoyue 968A+) and the Weller hasn't seen much use since.

The kit you posted is probably not very high quality. I would steer away from it and spend the extra money to get something you know will perform well for years. You do want some of the things from that kit, though:

• Solder sucker
  
  
• Solder wick
  
  
• Tweezers
  
  
• Various tips
  
  
• Flux (I use a flux pen similar to this one for most things as it's a little easier to apply)
  
  A good way to practice is to get some perf board (the tan-colored breadboard-looking PCB prototyping boards), a pack of random wires and/or resistors/capacitors, and just start soldering things in. SparkFun sells some good kits for beginner soldering, and they have a few good tutorials as well.
  
  Always use flux, always tin your wires before soldering them to anything, and always hold the iron on the solder long enough for it to completely flow. Learn how to use solder wick and you'll be able to repair just about anything. Finally, always tin your tips before storing the iron - don't want the tips to corrode!

That stuff is Great! Best purchase decision I made on this build. The name on the bag is "PET Expandable Braided Sleeving". I used 3/8" which was just the right size for all applications, though maybe smaller would have been more appropriate for something like the ESC signal wires.

I got it from Amazon here:

http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving--10ft/dp/B00H2RG20G/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1419879746&sr=8-11&keywords=braided+sleeving

waterproof LED strips of solid colors are easy to add and can run directly off a 3S (12v) battery.

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Flexible-300xSMD3528-Adhesive-2026WH/dp/B002Q8V8DM

But you will want to check out the different types of LED strips and see which kind you want. Different strips use different placement patterns which can affect overall brightness and power draw.

Alternatively if you have the space and equipment, you can add a dedicated BEC and use some RGB LED strips and wire them up to the FC so they can be controlled. But this becomes more difficult when you want to use a couple of small strips in a tight space.

I think the CrazyFlie is one of the worst options, honestly. It's expensive and requires a computer and gamepad. It might be a good option if you're into computer based control, but if you just want to fly around then there are a few others you could go with. I haven't seen many kits at this size but there are a lot of prebuilt/ready to fly options:

• Estes Proto-X (I have this one for my office)
  
• Hubsan X4
  
• Blade Nano QX (a bit more advanced features but requires a DSM2 or DSMX capable transmitter)
  
  

>so you like ebay, lots but not cost efficent / not godo value
>
>anyone know the other main sites/shops that are not 'peer to peer' liek ebay, like a real commerical site/shop

Not really sure what you're saying here. You can spend more money anywhere you like, but why? Many of the sellers on eBay are shops selling new items, not peer to peer.

Here's 6 for $28 from Amazon, a "real" site: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IK8DEI4/ and they're "branded" if that's what you're trying to get at, "Lectron Pro".

I have some idea. So far I have this battery these motors/esc and this BEC I need a flight controller as well. And I want to use my iPad mini as a controller. Would you know how I would do that?

Thank you

Is there a way to manually change the output from say originally 25mW to 200mW about 20min after turning on drone?

Would [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7TKGR5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07R7TKGR5&pd_rd_w=kNSSI&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=17nIX&pf_rd_r=2A1C0K3MB4X5KKE432SZ&pd_rd_r=1754f076-7f29-11e9-8740-41568e48106d) be a good VTX for a [runcam camera] (https://www.amazon.com/RunCam-Micro-Eagle-Camera-Global/dp/B079LX5VRL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=runcam+eagle&qid=1557072434&s=gateway&sr=8-3)?

Assuming the camera and transmitter work fine together, what do I have to look for in terms of a FPV goggle? Does the goggle have to be compatible with camera or transmitter or both?

The quanums v2's can run on 2s lipos, so any cheap 2s lipo in the 500mah+ should do the trick. These nano-techs 850mah 2s works well and gives decent power time.


For charging, I personally like the Turnigy Reaktor it can do 10A, plus this 12v power supply and a parallel charging board, you can quickly charge 4 or 5 lipos at once. In the future if you plan to get another Reaktor charger, you can hook it up to the same power supply. I have 3 Reaktors hooked up to my power supply.

On a cheaper end, this B6AC can do 6A and doesn't require a separate power supply.


This is what my setup looks like.

I use this on my F450 and I've been pretty happy with it. It lets me move the quad back and forth to adjust COG some. When I've come down a little too hard the parts separate but don't break.

Here is what I use

That will give your android device a full-sized female USB port (like on a computer) and you can then connect your android to the radio in the same way you would connect the radio to a PC running ground station software: using a standard microusb cable.

3DR seems to be including a neat little cable combining that setup into one short cable (the blue on in your link). I'm sure that's convenient in its own way, but you can likely find the exact same thing elsewhere.

Buy a syma x1 and some extra batteries. Learn on that cheap and close to indestructible airframe and in a year if you're still into the hobby you'll know what you want.

Just a standard OTG cable. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5in-Micro-Host-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409524677&sr=8-3&keywords=otg

https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-Quadcopter-Controller-Propeller/dp/B00YACIDNU

yep, batteries fail differently than the old flashlight cells. Its an 'all of a sudden' type thing.

You should get one of those battery checkers, it checks the individual cells and overall charge of the pack.

ETA: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Tester-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm/dp/B009LW48LK/ref=pd_vtph_60_bs_lp_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C3WYSJD7ANBT5A3XTH56

For large lipo batteries the bags don't do much to contain the fire. You will need to charge them outside or build a battery bunker. I have the icharger 308 duo with a 1,500w server power supply.

Charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FDYQSIG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492134360&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=icharger+308+duo&dpPl=1&dpID=41sfSNvgckL&ref=plSrch

Power: http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/24v-Power-Supplies_c14.htm