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I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RNnoDbP0KDB6R


I built a mid sized boombox using these: https://reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/7ph3ck/update_pelican_550_budget_audiophile_boombox/

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

There's a switch on the back of the Behringer amp tl pick from stereo or mono. Set it to mono, and both channels will be driven by a single input: Same thing as a Y cable, but with fewer parts.

Your list looks pretty complete, but that XLR cable won't do you much good with a typical receiver unless it also has an XLR output (most are RCA outputs).

The Behringer amp can accept XLR or 1/4" connections. If it were me and my own system, I'd get something like this:

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cfd8CbWWVZMT4

Split the pair and put half in a drawer for when you get a receiver with multiple subwoofer outputs, or decide to rent some full-range PA speakers to piss off the neighbors with.

Speaking of PA: Handles are glorious things for enormous and heavy boxes. If you can work some into your design, I think you'll be much happier when those monsters inevitably need moved.

Excellent input- I completely agree with JohnBooty's assessment of the OS sound. Definitely not for home studio usage.

As far as amp - unless you're pushing them super hard, (since you're in nearfield) you can go with a SMSL amp. Good price, decent build quality, and it should hopefully free up more budget to spend on speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465509439&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifier+smsl

Here's a link to a few bare board amps with bluetooth that should do a good job if you want to do a full integration job or a pre-built all in one with a remote as a convenient bolt in option. These amps have wired and bluetooth inputs and can power both standard 8 ohm speakers and 4 ohm vehicle speakers. These are by no means audiophile quality amplifiers however I have a basic 2 channel one hooked up to a pair of Sony monitors as my computer and have no complaints about the sound quality.


How many and what size speakers is the cabinet cut for?
Parts express is good place to find speakers and other components.

Beyond replacement parts I would look into baffling and adding some additional internal panels for better acoustic quality and, since you live in an apartment, sound isolation.


That looks like it will be a fun project, good luck and keep us up to date.

Just my opinion here, but class-D amplifiers have gotten good enough and cheap enough that there's no real reason to DiY amplifiers if your sole goal is bang for the buck.

Here is a nice amp that's probably better and cheaper than anything you could make yourself.

Those speakers aren't powered are they? That Fiio isn't going to get anywhere near the amount of power that you're going to need to get much out of those speakers.

A basic amplifier like the Lepy LP-2020A would get you a lot closer to the power demands that you need.

For a bit more I like the SMSL SA50. It's nicer to use and has a bit more power than the Lepy unit.

For a basic explanation of why that FiiO isn't going to get there... it pushes a maximum of 78mW (.078 watts), your speakers will need more power than that...to get to 87dB at 1 meter you'll need 1 watt.

These are amazingly good for the price. The 8-inch woofer provides great bass, though they are a little larger than most desktop speakers.

Thanks for your reply. I'm not sure about a metal tab connected to ground. This is the amp. Best I could tell I think this is the same one too?

I built up my first "real" listening area and I am absolutely thrilled with how it all came together. Pretty standard C-Note build, I did do the .22uF capacitor mod on the crossover to bring the peak down from -20 dB to -40 dB.


C-Note speaker kit


Crossover PCBs


.22uF capacitor


Binding posts


SMSL SA50


Chromecast Audio

I believe this satisfies your criteria.

This was my first dac/amp.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

I still keep it for travel.
Will drive up to 250Ω.
Sounds fantastic too. Would recommend.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

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Need help getting my speaker system for my PC. Have the following:

DAC: Micca OriGen+ < https://www.miccatron.com/micca-origen-usb-audio-dac-and-preamp-2/ \>

AMP: SMSL SA50 < https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 \>

Bookshelf Speakers & Sub: Infinity Reference R152 and R10 Subwoofer < https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1179704-REG/infinity_reference_2_way_bookshelf_speakers_pair.html \>

Not sure how to connect the subwoofer in this setup. My old sub had speaker in/out so I connected PC > DAC > AMP > SUB > Speakers. The R10 Subwoofer doesn't look like it has any speaker in/out so now it is PC > DAC > AMP > Speakers.

I bought a Y Adapter and have it connected like this: https://imgur.com/a/JWWmjZS

I ran a left/right sound test but the bass only seems to play when the left side plays. No bass on the right. How do I get the bass to work for both sides?

I would say the bare minimum of power tools are going to be a circular saw, jigsaw and drill. Combine the circular saw with a straight edge (i.e. a very straight piece of wood/metal) used as a guide and you can cut out all of your panels.

Then onto the speaker holes. After laying out where the holes will be, drill a hole big enough to fit the jigsaw blade close to the edge of one of the speaker layout lines. Then use the jigsaw to carefully cut out the rest of the hole. This part will take practice to make the best cut. After that, I believe the holes for the rear connections would be all that's left before prepping for construction.

At this point, you have your panels cut and you need to decide where the crossover will live. I'm assuming you have everything to solder the crossover up so I won't address that. But definitely try to plan the placement so you can still reach it somewhat within the box.

Now for the final requirement: Clamps...Lots of clamps. Particularly [bar clamps] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-clamp) since they will have the reach to span the length of the box sides when you glue it up.

Of course, this is bare bones. You could always substitute a table saw for the circular saw and a router+circular jig for the jigsaw and get much better results, but I'm not sure how deep you wanted to get into woodworking.

These are the two batteries I was looking at so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00&linkCode=sl1&tag=reemedcoa-20&linkId=191c1678d31e4d67fd9a7cc984426bce

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496774277&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+lead+acid+battery

I'm trying to use the speaker enclosure as my case so the lithium might be a better option due to size.

Those would be very good for that amp. Appropriate suggestion IMO.

Do you have any recommendations? I recall seeing someone using something like this in a previous build. Would I have any issues powering both the amp and bluetooth receiver off one of those?

You can get one that outputs 12v already - something like this: TaletCell

1. Get a used power drill. The makitas are damn near immortal. Buy corded.
   
2. Plunge routers are the #1 most useful tool once you've got the wood chopped up. Get a decent one.
   
3. This fuckin' thing
   
4. Hand sanding works. Used sanders are cheap.
   
5. I'm a lazy shit who likes plasti dip.

Any particular advantage of a forstner bit over a hole saw?

E.g.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZAEY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484366877&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2%22+hole+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=51ypuzQ689L&ref=plSrch

While I personally have not used one. Google 3.5mm 2 in 1 out mixer

here is one I found on amazon that should get the job done. Look around for one you like in your price range.

Edit: looks like the reviews say that one sucks but just use it as an example for what you need.

The $25 Lepai LP-2020TI will get the job done at normal volumes:
https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-class-d-stereo-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000

If you can afford to spend more, something like the SMSL SA50 would be a beefy upgrade that could really open the C-Notes up, but it's $68, so that might be outside of what you were looking to spend:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

The most direct way is either a hole saw (if the exact size or close enough exists).

Or a jig saw with a narrow blade that is made for tight turns.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000223G4/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_b2JgA_c_x_18_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=ZGDNQAA19J59HVBQZRYR&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=8360d636-6d37-5741-b290-5e8b34d0d0ba&pf_rd_i=552306

I'd just buy this or something similar.

I have one of these powering my living room 2.1 setup. It also has Bluetooth built in.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver-Adapter/dp/B07T7MF7FW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=2.1+amp&qid=1574259575&sr=8-5

Many people have used it with speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/product-reviews/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=speakers

http://smile.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Aquaseal-Flexible-Adhesive/dp/B001XUMBIA

Just remove the driver and apply it from the back to maintain the appearance.

This is what Sound Mixers are made to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Micromix-MX400-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ

Even if the splitter works, wont you also need pre-amps on each mic before feeding into the sound cards?

If so it may be simpler to do the mixing in software and just feed the mixed signal back out to your PA or whatever. Latency may become an issue if it's for live audio.

Source: not an expert

Edit: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI4000-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI-PRO/dp/B0002E57DY

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/behringer-inuke-nu1000-power-amp

Vs

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PR60-Supply-Output/dp/B00009YFV0

The difference is jerry rigging a power supply to run amp the you already have vs running an amp that is designed for exactly what you are trying to do

Alright... you said a few things that I don't really understand.

Drivers= speakers?

Open Baffle = ....


Also, what would happen if the back of the speaker was touching the back of the box?

It does say they have a BMS so it’s got some protection for the cells. I’m not sure if it would be full capacity for that price. I recently tried out this power bank/12v battery

Used Velcro to attach it to the back of my project. I’ve used it for a week and it’s still half full and you can always peel it off the Velcro and use it for a usb power bank.

You'll need a mixer to get the two inputs (laptop and xbox) to a single output (headphones). You can try something like this but really any mixer will work. https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=pd_sim_267_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E08ZR6TKJGAJQNCW820C

Just realize you'll need some cables to get everything connected. In your case, if you're using the headphone out on your laptop and xbox, you'll need 1/8" stereo to rca cables. For your headphones you'll need a 1/8" female to rca.

If you really wanted to just rig something together, you could always plug in your xbox headphone output to your laptop's mic input. Then using the software mixer, playback your mic input through your headphones. Not recommended!

hmm it doenst look like my turntable has a pre-amp build in so it looks like i also need to buy that. Are there any well known pre-amp kits? I did some quick googling but I mainly found mic pre amps wich i asume is something completely different. maybe ill just order the pyle p999 and maybe ill later upgrade to a actual diy pre amp

thanks for your explanation about preamps