(Part 2) Top products from r/diysound

Wow thanks for such a thorough response!!!

1. yeah I figured as much, I'm thinking i'll start with Corded Hitachi , or Corded Ryobi and then if it ever breaks or if I need a cordless I'll upgrade down the line.
   
2. True, Likely worth the upgrade. Do you think I should focus on Titanium over Black Oxide? or is a reputable brand the main concern?
   
3. Thanks for the insight!
   
4. Solder , Gotcha Yeah i'll try to see if I can find anything like this locally (smaller quantity preferably)
   
5. Stahl Soldering Gun , I'm thinking this one which was linked elsewhere in this thread.
   
   6/9/10 - I think they were written into the manual as different ways in which to attach the crossover board to the bottom of the box. how do you normally attach it to the bottom of the box?
   
   I'm considering Crossover Board , just to help with organization, however i'd still need to attach it to the bottom of the box.
   
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   I just realized I forgot speaker wire for the internals, does it matter a lot which gauge? any general guidance.
   
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   I would really like to complete the outside of the boxes , as i may end up giving them away as a gift eventually. wondering if i'll need a Sander , if i plan on doing vinyl or some sort of wrap? I'm not against painting, just against spray painting.
   
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   Also forgot Snips

If you have the space for it a 5.1/7.1 home theater receiver will actually provided the easiest, cheapest, and best subwoofer integration since it's guaranteed to implement a proper crossover that high-passes the C-Notes (improving their power handling and clarity about the xover point) and low-passes the subwoofer. Accessories4Less is reliable and has great refurb deals. They'll also put out more clean power than your typical compact Class D amp.

Of course, there's not always space for something like that.

Compact amps with subwoofer out are annoyingly hard to find. The SMSL AD18 and Q5Pro have subwoofer output, but are a bit pricy. They don't get super super loud, but should be plenty loud enough for practice or as monitors I guess! Keep in mind that their sub outs aren't high-passed so the C-Notes will still play full-range.

Alternately you could choose any old amp, and simply control the volume upstream from the amp. Then you won't need a subwoofer out on the amp.

(RCA splitter) --> (inline volume control) --> (piano)

The amp would go into one set of RCA outputs and the sub into another.

You could of course skip the inline volume control if you can simply do it on the piano!

> Main goal is to get distortion free power that won't starve the speakers, so I'm thinking it should probably put out 40 watts per channel at a minimum? I could be wrong there, parts express has the cnotes rated at 60 watts RMS.

If you're going with a class D amps in the $100 range, look for amps rated at around 100W per channel -- typically based on the TDA7498E like the SMSL SA98 and Topping PA3. That "100W" rating is at 10% distortion. However, they'll do 50W at nice low distortion levels, giving the C-Notes about as much clean power as they can take.

However, if you're just using these for practice from a distance of several feet you don't need to go that big. A "50W" class D amp will give you around 25W of actual clean power, which is pretty damn loud at close range and is only ~3dB less than a 50W amp and 6dB less than a 100W monster.

Well, just from what I was reading it seems its always best to go with proven deivers and crossover design, especially for someone like me who has not made any enclosures. Due to that, I didn't find any very small options that had significant plans. Other than that barrier, I have no issues with the mecahnics of hooking anything up.

Honestly most of the stuff I see online and youtube for a form factor I am looking for rarely has specs or parts listed.

I mean honestly right now I have a little D-class amp powering two of the speakers from an old set of computer speakers (https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-X-530-5-1-Speaker-System/dp/B0002WPSCG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1467651033&sr=8-7&keywords=logitech+5.1+computer).

If it sounds better than that, I probably wouldn't complain and just salvage the parts in the future for a more robust build as you suggest.

Source would be mostly streaming or mp3 as well. So my question is, if I get a driver like the HiVi B3N, will it be just as useful as a mid later one as the FE85s (assuming i eventually take it apart to do something else with)?

There's a switch on the back of the Behringer amp tl pick from stereo or mono. Set it to mono, and both channels will be driven by a single input: Same thing as a Y cable, but with fewer parts.

Your list looks pretty complete, but that XLR cable won't do you much good with a typical receiver unless it also has an XLR output (most are RCA outputs).

The Behringer amp can accept XLR or 1/4" connections. If it were me and my own system, I'd get something like this:

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cfd8CbWWVZMT4

Split the pair and put half in a drawer for when you get a receiver with multiple subwoofer outputs, or decide to rent some full-range PA speakers to piss off the neighbors with.

Speaking of PA: Handles are glorious things for enormous and heavy boxes. If you can work some into your design, I think you'll be much happier when those monsters inevitably need moved.

Electronic Projects for Musicians by Craig Anderton is great if you want to learn some pedal basics!

https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Projects-Musicians-Craig-Anderton/dp/0825695023

He has some other books that are also pretty awesome for getting your feet wet.

Thank you. I've attempted to get a refund and just bought something else. If that fails I will attempt a repair.

Those amp boards could come in very useful though! They're insanely cheap. I have a side project building a racing simulator. I need a few amps to send power to some body shakers mounted under the chair. Do you happen to know if one of these would provide enough power one of these:

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Unknown-Bodyshaker/dp/B002LQAHPE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=body+shaker&qid=1567975857&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Thanks. I appreciate I've drifted off topic slightly now, so obviously don't feel obliged to answer. :)

Use a 2" forstner bit.

Clamp down the workpiece securely and put a sacrificial board underneath it so you don't screw up your work surface when you drill through the other side.

Mark the center point with something pointy. You could even drill a small pilot hole if you want--no bigger than the diameter of the spur on the end of the forstner bit at its widest point, though. Drop the spur into the mark.

At the beginning of the cut, the bit is going to want to go for a walk. I like to do quick, 1/2 second pulses when starting a bit like this until the hole is about 1-2mm deep. Once you're at that point, it will follow the walls.

Practice on scraps a few times until you're confident that you can get the hole started without having the bit jump out and walk around. This isn't a hard thing, but it sucks to mess up nice material because you didn't practice first.

Doing high-grade veneer work is not beginner stuff, but speakers are on the easier side. These are a few process shots from the last time I veneered speaker boxes, to give you an idea of one approach. I ended up finishing the speakers with a really dark toned shellac so the finished speakers look way less interesting than the process shots would imply...I just used that stuff because I had scrap veneer from doing these drawer fronts and the speakers were the right size.

I google the system and found a description on Crutchfield that lists this:

> One black 20' system input cable (has a 15-pin female connector on one end and tinned wire/single male RCA jack on the other end)

Seems like something like this would work. Cut one end off of an old RCA and solder the tip wire of the RCA to pin 14 and the ring/ground wire to pin 15. Ooor, try to find an original wire.

Personally, I'd probably want to take a panel off the sub and check out the innards first just to trace where the wires go and to be sure Im not doing something wrong.

What a glorious time for you! If you haven't already check out nic collins book this was a big help as I moved beyond bending. Unfortunately, we lost Ray Wilson last year, but Music From Outer Space remains a tremendous resource, his make book is good too..

They make surge protectors that switch some of the outlets based on whether one main device is plugged in and powered on. Plug the receiver / preamp into the main, and then plug the Behringer (or a 12v wall wart connected to the trigger port) into one of the slave outlets.

Edit: Here's a popular one.

I would look at something like this to match the amp.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J23V8/

I've found this bit to be the key to trimming the veneer out of the driver holes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2G69M/

I'll cut as close to the edges as I can with a utility knife and then clean it up with that. Just don't push too hard or it will eat into your material.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/behringer-inuke-nu1000-power-amp

Vs

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PR60-Supply-Output/dp/B00009YFV0

The difference is jerry rigging a power supply to run amp the you already have vs running an amp that is designed for exactly what you are trying to do

Even if the splitter works, wont you also need pre-amps on each mic before feeding into the sound cards?

If so it may be simpler to do the mixing in software and just feed the mixed signal back out to your PA or whatever. Latency may become an issue if it's for live audio.

Source: not an expert

Edit: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI4000-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI-PRO/dp/B0002E57DY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002STR22/ref=psdcmw_2257619011_t2_B00HSCMPL0

Alright... you said a few things that I don't really understand.

Drivers= speakers?

Open Baffle = ....


Also, what would happen if the back of the speaker was touching the back of the box?

The most direct way is either a hole saw (if the exact size or close enough exists).

Or a jig saw with a narrow blade that is made for tight turns.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000223G4/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_b2JgA_c_x_18_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=ZGDNQAA19J59HVBQZRYR&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=8360d636-6d37-5741-b290-5e8b34d0d0ba&pf_rd_i=552306

You'll need a mixer to get the two inputs (laptop and xbox) to a single output (headphones). You can try something like this but really any mixer will work. https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=pd_sim_267_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E08ZR6TKJGAJQNCW820C

Just realize you'll need some cables to get everything connected. In your case, if you're using the headphone out on your laptop and xbox, you'll need 1/8" stereo to rca cables. For your headphones you'll need a 1/8" female to rca.

If you really wanted to just rig something together, you could always plug in your xbox headphone output to your laptop's mic input. Then using the software mixer, playback your mic input through your headphones. Not recommended!

hmm it doenst look like my turntable has a pre-amp build in so it looks like i also need to buy that. Are there any well known pre-amp kits? I did some quick googling but I mainly found mic pre amps wich i asume is something completely different. maybe ill just order the pyle p999 and maybe ill later upgrade to a actual diy pre amp

thanks for your explanation about preamps