(Part 2) Top products from r/dogemining

I know 280x and 290's fairly well, but you have a lot of cards that I haven't personally worked with. That aside, the process is pretty much the same, it's just the settings that will differ. You should research the right voltages (out of the box and what others have used as undervolt) and then run through that process. There are a TON of resources for you to pick from... Here is a great series which lead to a ton more links on undervolting cards as well as the semi-official scrypt mining hardware comparison. Just find your specific hardware and try out some settings.


How to undervolt a card (in general, the process is the same, your settings will vary per card) (requires making a DOS bootable drive to run ATIFlash)


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/09/how-to-modify-video-bios-to-undervolt-gpu-in-linux/


How to make a DOS bootable drive:


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/04/how-to-create-a-dos-bootable-usb-drive/


Hardware comparison:


https://litecoin.info/Mining_Hardware_Comparison


Download VBE7


http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/vbe7-vbios-editor-for-radeon-hd-7000-series-cards.189089/


Also to cool off your cards, buy some Arctic Silver or Icy Diamond and replace the stock paste on your GPU with some quality thermal paste.


http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8

OR


http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-Grams/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394905207&sr=1-1&keywords=arctic+silver


Hope this helps!

I'm not suggesting you add a secondary support. Rather, just a piece of aluminum angle bar mounted on the front support, at the same height as the rear support. This will allow the front of the GPU's PCI I/O shield to rest against a solid surface, effectively holding up the attached PCB even if it can't rest on a rear support. In fact, you could probably reduce your costs if you used this same angle-bar for the top portion of the front-support as well. It would allow you to thread the mounting points just the same as using tubing, but would eliminate any issues with DVI ports placed within 1 inch of the top of the PCI I/O shield (which would otherwise prevent you from being able to mount the PCI I/O shield flush against the tubing). It will also eliminate the issue someone else mentioned regarding obstruction of the I/O shield vents on reference GPUs that exhaust out the I/O shield. Lastly, using the angle bar in the secondary, lower position on the front support structure allows for the addition of ASIC-supporting-sheets for future expansion, effectively making your chassis more relevant because of its upgradability (another made up word).

If I've still failed to explain myself clearly, just try this: Attach a second, horizontal cross-bar to the front support structure at the same height as the rear support's horizontal bar. This sorts out support issues for short cards, and adds a level mounting surface for ASIC-supporting acrylic sheets. And if that front-support horizontal bar is aluminum angle rather than tubing, it should cost less. And if the top horizontal bar of the front support is also aluminum angle rather than tubing, you've further reduced your costs, and eliminated any compatibility issues with DVI ports or exhaust vents.

I have a couple of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039825M6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since my rig is in a mostly unused bedroom, I simply went for the highest CFM I could find. They're not even that loud really either. I've only been running them for a few days now, but they seem like they're pretty high quality. Got good reviews on both amazon and newegg. They also come with a molex adapter, if you need that and self-tapping screws.

$1500 invested. Shipping is up to you. I will ship however you want to pay. I will wipe the HD, so you will need to purchase Windows OS or better yet install Linux for FREE. 5x 750 Ti OC edition. 4-Gigabyte 1-EVGA. They are pulling 1200K/h+ without OC. You can OC them. I will accept doge, lite, bit, etc. as payment.
I tried to put together a part list below. PCPartPicker would only let me select 1 GPU and there are other parts that I purchased at other places that PCPartPicker does not carry.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | ASRock H81 Pro BTC ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $155.38 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $169.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $482.34
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-25 21:53 EDT-0400 |


Video Cards: Gigabyte above x4. 1 EVGA 02G-P4-3753-KR GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB + shipping. 5 GPUs total.
Network Adapter: Etekcity High Power 802.11 B/N/G 300M USB Wireless 1000mw Wifi Network Adapter with Dual Antenna
Shelf: Seville Classics 3 Shelf, 17-1/2-Inch by 7-1/2-Inch by 18-1/2-Inch Cabinet Organizer
Electricity Monitoring: ALEKO® Electricity Usage Monitor, Power Meter

This one however, it's not a direct swap. I left the plate the holds the fan just a little loose and used a molex adapter that's included with the fan to power it. It's far from "silent" but it provides enough airflow to keep things cool. I was unable to find a quieter fan that provided that much airflow.

Build:

MoBo: Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P

CPU: AMD Sempron 145

RAM: Kingston Hyper X Blu 4 GB

HD: Kingston Digital 60GB

GPU: 5x 750ti FTW edition

PSU: KingWin 850 Watts ATX 850

I have a feeling its the combination of a crappy PSU choice (I was aiming for different GPU's originally) and the FTW edition GPU's.

It's a name brand, OP was using an extension cord designed for a lamp basically, like this http://www.amazon.com/Axis-45505-Outlet-Indoor-Extension/dp/B006ZON7Y6/ref=lp_495312_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1395325657&sr=1-2 but was using it for something with way more wattage. Not advised at all.

Gauge is really important.
This article is an ok explanation http://gizmodo.com/5903218/how-to-choose-the-right-extension-cord-for-anything

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IHP58
It is extremely easy to use.

I had the exact same problem! I solved this by installing These

And this should make it easier to get it where you want them.

That is a Kingwin Razer 550W Platinum 80+. So far, so good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VK8GE0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've never bought premium PSUs before. They come in such fancy packaging. :)

Different brand cards can be somewhat different, but with mine, they blow a good amount of hot air from the front and a bit less from the rear. With that config, they would be sucking in a ton of hot air from their neighbors.

I used zip ties to to make a block of 5 120mm fans lengthwise and have them on top blowing down as close to the VRMs as possible. In my case, no external fans including box fans make much difference, the cards tend to run at 70C.

I used these. Silent compared to the GPU fans, but a lot less air movement than a box fan.

There are two artic breeze usb fans plugged into the usb hub. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003XN24GY?pc_redir=1409942669&robot_redir=1 and the two 80mm fans are just standard silent 80mm three pin fans that I ripped the fan speed sensor wire out of and swapped the other two wires about in the plug to make work. The whole thing runs completely silently.

I see. Well, thats $60 or a new motherboard or a new WiFi card then. Sorry that i don't have better news.

Amazon has WiFi USB stick for $10...

this is your friend

edit: add this and they will just be really fucking far away from each other

http://www.amazon.com/Hitchhikers-Guide-Galaxy-Douglas-Adams/dp/0345391802

Team green here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QV9CBV

I'm with the person that said go buy a cheap router. Any one will do, even a cheap nat firewall is damn near impossible to hack, especially if you change the default passwords on it, don't allow remote administration and don't allow your rig to be remotely administered either. Also be sure you downloaded BAMT from the actual source here:

http://bamt.wikia.com/wiki/Litecoin_BAMT#Versions

Or here

https://litecointalk.org/index.php?topic=2924.0

You'll want version 1.3

Cheapest i could find on short notice. $16

http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-App-Enabled-Broadband-DIR-600L/dp/B007FECGS8

You can plug any router into any source of an internet connection, so it doesnt matter who is providing your connection, the router is your partition between you and the outside world. ISP is irrelevant, just connect the network cable from the wall to the internet port on your router and your rig to any other port.

You're gonna need some of these bad boys:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007RXDDM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry about the loss. Not too be too harsh, but that hub looks like total shit. I wouldn't have trusted it to begin with. Those crappy little DC adapters aren't up to the task. The last USB hub I bought was this and it came with a 3.8A quality power supply.