(Part 2) Top products from r/dogs

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.

Treats

• Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)
  
  
• Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.
  
  
• Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.
  
  
• Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.
  
  
• Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.
  
  Toys
  
  
• KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.
  
  
• Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.
  
  
• Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.
  
  
• JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.
  
  
• Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.
  
  Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
  
  
• Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.
  
  
• Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.
  
  
• Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.
  
  
• Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.
  
  
• Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.
  
  
• Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!
  
  
• Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.
  
  
• Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!
  
  Grooming
  
  
• The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.
  
  
• Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.
  
  Edited to add more+formatting!

Dogs have different motivators - so a trainer who ONLY allows you to use ONE source of motivation is not a very good one in my book. Treats are a REALLY common motivator and will work with most dogs. Toys, praise, and life rewards (such as getting to sit on the couch, go outside, or sniff something) are other examples.

A GOOD positive reinforcement trainer, in my opinion, will teach you how to leverage ALL of these rewards to motivate your dog and fine tune YOUR routine to work best for your dog. For example, our corgi LOVES treats, but after a certain point he stops being super motivated by them. During training we alternate rewards between playing, life rewards , praise and treats all in the SAME session! So he is not sure what to expect but wants to keep playing 'the game' because something good WILL happen.

If this trainer isn't working out for you - go else where. Your dog sounds like he isnt really motivated anymore because he is to receiving any reinforcing feedback.

Some people are very against treats because they feel you will be 'treat dependent'. The trick is moderation and reducing the amount of treat rewards as your dog becomes more confident with a skill. If you reward responsibly, it should not be an issue!

If you choose to at least finish the class, I would say to keep using things that are reinforcing to your dog (treats, play, life rewards, praise) at home and play more by the rules at training. That is not to say their LESSONS are invaluable, but your dog simply does not find praise reinforcing enough to continue working with that as his ONLY reward (this is the case for many dogs).

Find a different training club that uses positive reinforcement but is flexible on rewards. Additionally, these are some good books I would encourage you to pickup and read to gain some more insight on training (it will help you in your own training goals AND help you have a good idea of what to look for in a trainer/training club):

• Dont Shoot the Dog
  
  
• Culture Clash
  
  
• The Power of Positive DogTraining
  
  
  Bonus - no matter what you do, training sessions should be short and sweet. Try to limit focused sessions to 3-5 minutes for known skills or ones you are fine tuning and 5-10 minutes for brand new skills and proofing - practice 3 to 5 times a day! Try to integrate training into life as MUCH as you can (using a bit of the "Nothing in Life is Free" mentality) - ask for a sit and wait before giving food. Require your dog to be in a sit before you pay attention to them when you come home. No free treats - your dog has to do something for every treat they get. Ask your dog to bring you a toy to play with, etc. You expect your dog to be obedience all the time under a variety of conditions, so blend their training into your routine! Not only will they get a ton of practice, but completing the actions will lead to natural rewards (remember 'life rewards'?) and after you get into the groove you will find yourself relying on treats much less.
  
  Also consider clicker training.

I've posted this before, and it's a great list! Originally posted by u/manatee1010 and I have tried several:

I keep this list of brain toy links handy to send to friends who get dogs. It's getting pretty long...

Toys that get stuffed with food and frozen:

• Kong Classic (15-20 minutes) (it sounds like Watson is lukewarm toward this… have you tried mixing a spoonful of canned food in with some kibble and freezing it?
  
  
• Zogoflex Toppl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (this can be a stand-alone toy, or if you get a big one and little one they can fit together and dispense kibble) (15-20 minutes)
  
  
• Starmark Pickle Pocket (my big dog really likes this one… we put cheese in it) (20-25 minutes)
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, hard material (good for carpeted areas)
  
  
• Bob-A-Lot (~10 minutes… this one can be adjusted to make it harder)
  
  
• Tug-A-Jug (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Magic Mushroom (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Kong Wobbler (~5-10 minutes)
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball (~10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Pet Zone IQ Ball (this is the ONLY toy my dogs can’t get all the kibble out of. They’ll usually persist for half an hour or so before they give up)
  
  
• Buster Cube (I think this has several difficulty settings… my guys now don’t have one of these, but my dog when I was growing up had one. I’d guess this is probably a 20-30 minute toy depending on difficulty and what you load into it)
  
  
• Treatstik – I have NO idea how long this one takes to load, but it’s on my to-purchase list because it seems like it’s one of the longer lasting toys on the market. If anyone has/gets one, I’m super interested to hear about it!
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, soft material (good for hardwood/tile/laminate)
  
  
• Barnacle (this can be stuffed like a Kong as well… I lost this one when I moved but I think in terms of kibble dispensing it was shorter lasting, maybe 5-10 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treater (I REALLY like this one; super easy to load and clean, lasts 10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treat Ball (another super easy one… <5 minutes)
  
  
• Planet Dog Orbee-Tuff Snoop Treat Dispensing Dog Toy – this one just arrived yesterday so I don’t have a solid rating of its durability yet, but so far it seems great… easy to load, takes the dogs awhile to empty, and super duper quiet.
  
  
• JW Pet Company Treat Puzzler Dog Toy (this one is super easy for them to empty… I’d say 3-5 minutes)
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy (this one is okay, not my favorite… I didn’t like that I had to make a decision about cutting it immediately after opening. It takes ~5-10 minutes to unload)
  
  
• Starmark Treat Dispensing Puzzle Ball - this one is new! I almost bought it the other day but haven't yet; I think it's most similar to a Buster Cube in terms of adjustable difficulty, it's just a softer material.
  
  Time-release kibble dispensing toys (good for work days)
  
  
• the Foobler is great because it works on a timer that rotates to the next of six, ¼ cup food hoppers at set intervals of time (you pick, the options are 15-30-60-90 minutes), which makes it last way longer than most of these toys. This is hard plastic.
  
  
• CleverPet – this has a December release date. I’m way pumped about it and have been in touch with the company… hopefully I’ll be getting one of the first models off the line!
  
  Lastly, there are also these two that I haven’t tried yet, so I’m not positive how to classify…
  
  
• Starmark Crunching Barbell
  
  
• Starmark Treat Crunching Multiball
  
  
  ETA: If you have any others you like (or don't like) that I've left off this list, please chime in!

Congratulations! It will be exciting and tiring and overwhelming and so much fun. Don't feel bad if you ever get stressed or overwhelmed, it happens to many people and does not mean you will be a crappy owner.

For videos, I love kikopup and lots of people here watch Zak George as well.

A few overall things - physical stimulation (exercise and playtime) is important but so is mental stimulation! Things like classes, puzzles, trick training, etc... are really beneficial and can also tire out a dog. A properly exercised and stimulated dog is much likely to behave better and be easier to work with and train. Just be careful to take lots of breaks and not over exercise a puppy as it can affect their joints and development. Also, patience and consistency really is key. Be firm and consistent with your pup and as /u/mushroom_fae says, think about the kind of adult dog you want to have.

I also suggest keeping a good supply of an enzymatic cleaner such as Natures Miracle or Anti Icky Poo. Many cleaners don't really do a good job of getting rid of the mark or scent and enzymatic cleaners will deep clean pet messes so that your dog can no longer smell the residue and won't go to the same spot to mark repeatedly. Great for potty training and just to have around in general.

edit: also if you're interested in reading some books, I love Patricial McConnell! I've not read the puppy one but she has several that are great.

This is my advice from training lots of dogs and volunteering many years at the humane society (I am not a professional) - "don't work harder, work smarter." You are trying way too hard and you are burning yourself out. That does not bode well for you or your dog.

He is hyperactive and needs to get his energy out, but that said, no dog needs 4-5 hours of activity a day. That is just crazy. Instead of running or walking (save your knees, you need them!) with him, train him to do urban mushing. Since you says he pulls a lot, it would be dangerous for you to get a regular bike so I would recommend getting a cart.

Next, buy him a weighted pack. Throw this on him (and feel free to put your water bottles and snacks in there) while you are walking or for a couple of hours a day and it will slow him down and tire him out. It also makes him feel like he has a job to do. Since you think he may be a blue lacey, you really need to give him a job to do since he is a working dog. That also explains why he doesn't like doing tricks but likes finding stuff for you.

A couple of activities that are great for a working dog are agility and nose work. Sign up for your local agility and nose work class and the people there will give you great tips on how to tire your dog out without burning yourself out since they are actually experienced with training with working dogs. These kinds of jobs also train him to listen to your commands in a home setting.

Your dog is not a extremely dominant or submissive, he is what working dog trainers call a "soft" dog. This means they are very sensitive to loud, verbal yelling or negative energy. It is hard to see them react when you overcorrect but this also means that they are very trainable since they want to please you. Use a calm and low voice when you correct your dog.

For working from home, you have to learn to ignore him. I know it is heartbreaking to hear his whining but the truth of it is, if you give a dog an inch, they will take a mile. He knows how to push your buttons and he will so you have to harden yourself up not give in. Instead, get him a bunch of interactive toys
like this 1, [2] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Mad-Scientist-Dogs-Level/dp/B003TOKTEG/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-11&keywords=interactive+dog+toys), [3.] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Gambling-Tower-Level-1/dp/B002XCTUIQ/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-38&keywords=interactive+dog+toys) Fill them with his favorite treats and let him learn to amuse himself.

Lastly, this is probably the most important advice I have - get a gentle leader. It jerks their head to the side if they pull, so they stop pulling. It works amazingly for dogs who like to pull on their leash and do not respond to training. It seriously is a godsend for many of the dogs I walked in the shelter and could not control. It will save you many a more broken bones.

Feel free to message me if you need more help. I love helping people who love their dogs enough to not give up on them.

Congratulations on your new puppy, she's a cutie. You are gonna have a ball! It's practically impossible to totally screw up a puppy unless you are abusive. They all seem to survive our bumbling and inability to speak their language.

If you are new to dogs you don't yet understand that they have a language that you can learn. Please do yourself and your dog a favor and learn a bit of it with this inexpensive invaluable book. it will help you understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
http://www.amazon.com/On-Talking-Terms-With-Dogs/dp/1929242360

Here is her web site with some quick info:
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.php?artid=1

Please please throw the Purina food away. If you google the ingredients you will see that it is worse than McDonalds. It contains animal byproducts which is from dead and dying animals as well as any bit of crap they can't put in human food. It also contains corn which dogs can't readily digest and many are allergic to.

Buy a good food made without wheat or corn and with meat as its top ingredient. Here is a link to food ratings. http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/dry/

You want to choose a 5 star food if you can afford it, or a 4 star. Look at the ingredients and remember that this is the ONLY food she will get, she can't go out and buy anything else. You have to feed her the best you can. Follow the directions on the bag for amounts for the dry food.

To give her the best nutrition mix in some good quality canned food or make up a nice chicken stew, with lots of chicken and vegetables like green beans, broccoli and cauliflower to put on top. She's a baby and good nutrition is important. Besides if you love her it makes you feel good to provide good healthy food and watch her bloom.

The bath for the fleas was good. She needs to see the vet right away and he or she can advise you on what to use for her. Vet care is important. Have her microchipped if you can because rural dogs can get lost.

The crate should be big enough so that she has a place to sleep at one end and a place to go potty. If you have a secure room you could put her in there as well. Be sure to give her toys that are soft and squeak and toys that she can chew on. Gently discourage her chewing on anything but her toys. Sometimes a dab of peanut butter on a toy can make it more interesting. Don't give her rawhide chews (avoid giving Greenies at all) when you aren't home though, as they can choke on them.

There are lots of resources on the net for housebreaking. Dogs don't like to potty in their own home so after a few fits and starts she will get the idea. It will be some time before she can hold it for 8-9 hours though. Keep an eye on her after meals and take her out. Watch her and when she goes be an absolute fool about praising her and talking baby talk and anything else she finds exciting. You want her to associate it with good things. :)

Have fun reading and learning. Keep reinforcement positive. If you fuss at her make it short and forgive her immediately. Dogs don't hold grudges, they scold one another and move on. Humans could learn a lot from them.

> Any books or guides you recommend?

• A well balanced trainer so you can properly socialize the dog.
  
• Ian Dunbar's Before and After.
  
• The Puppy Primer and Perfect Puppy.
  
• kikopup
  
• zak george
  
• Pam's Dog Academy
  
• Donna Hill
  
• Training Positive
  
• Kristin Crestejo
  
  > Crate recommendations (we will be doing crate training)
  
  Crate Games and the weekend crate training plan -- adjust as necessary for your dog. Remember, never reward the dog for crying if you know they don't need anything (aka, they've been pottied, fed, etc).
  
  > What should we be prepared for? What will a rough schedule be like for having a puppy around? When do we start leaving the crate open and letting him roam all day?
  
  It can be a bit rough the first two weeks, but get onto a schedule you like ASAP. Feed at x AM, potty after, feed again at x AM/PM, etc. It'll make your life substantially easier. I take water away just before our last potty for the evening. You can start leaving the crate open and letting him roam after the teenage-angst-kill-everything phase. That'll vary by dog.
  
  > There are always debates on the best dog food for puppies and adults, so any input on that would be awesome as well
  
  For the first month, keep the puppy on whatever s/he's on. It makes it substantially easier. Too much change can really upset their digestive system. :) Honestly, I'm a firm believer in keeping your dog on what they do well on.
  
  > When we get him, should we take him right to a vet for a check up, to get established there or no? Are there routine/annual checkups we should be doing?
  
  I personally would. Shelters aren't always the most thorough in their examinations. It isn't really their fault. But, it also allows you to start the socialization process for the vet. Take lots of treats, and reward heavily during the exam - reward whilst the mouth is looked at, paws, etc. It's never too early to start that. Just keep him/her crated or off the floor until s/he's had all the vaccinations!

I would suggest a few things:

• Implement a Nothing in Life Is Free Policy.
  
  Dogs don't know that there is a thing called "obedience training". They don't know why we ask them to come when called, or why we like them to sit to greet us instead of jumping. So, NILIF is a training philosophy that tells the owner to have the dog "ask" or "work for" everything he wants, including pets.
  
  If he wants to go outside, he must sit before you open the door. If he wants his dinner, he must do a task(sitting is an easy starting task)
  in exchange for his food.
  
  My own dog does sit stays and down stays for everything. He sit stays until I allow him to leave when I open to door to my house or car, or when I give him food, etc.
  
  Start small here. The dog has probably not been asked to do all this before, so if he doesn't listen, just back him up from the door and ask again or pick up his food and ask him to sit again.
  
  When you get good at NILIF, you can start asking for more complex behaviors.
  
  Now, it's important to understand that although NILIF will help him listen to you in all circumstances, it will not curb his aggression. His aggression is a matter that is completely separate from your leadership.
  
  
  
• Establish bonding.
  
  Dogs who don't know you are less likely to listen to you, especially if they've been put in an unfamiliar environment. From his perspective, a lot of stuff has changed lately. His parent went away. The people he knows aren't there as often. Don't take him not listening personally. Instead, offer your sympathy. Hand feed him from now on, and while you are hand feeding him, pet him. This will help with the food aggression a bit and it will make him trust you. Get the book Mine! by Donaldson that I linked in my other comment to improve his aggression.
  
  
• If you can, start clicker training him.
  
  Clicker training is fun training for the dog and it will encourage him to listen to you because it's fun. Also, it will help him feel bonded to you and you can use the clicker to help deal with his food aggression-teaching drop it and leave it, etc.
  
  You can either take a clicker class at a local pet store like Petsmart, or buy a clicker and practice tricks in your home for 10 minutes each day. This book is pretty fun

These are the books I read! The training the best dog ever was probably my favorite as it focusses on manners commands like recall, stay, leave it, drop it, yours/mine as well as socialization methods. Puppies for Dummies is a lot about the first week/month/year of dog ownership and includes training but also health info, nutrition, supplies, budget, etc. 101 tricks is basically a party tricks book, not focussed on manners more on obedience training/showing off to house guests. I think it's always good to read a book about your dog's breed too so that was my last one.

Training the Best Dog Ever: A 5-Week Program Using the Power of Positive Reinforcement

Puppies For Dummies

101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog

The Australian Cattle Dog: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet (Your Happy Healthy Pet)

Bully sticks are good options for chewers, and they come in a variety of sizes, cuts, and lengths. I recommend the Barkworthies brand because they have odorless ones that won't smell up your place - they are available on Chewy, Wag, and Amazon. They have curly ones that seem to require a tad bit more effort than the standard stick ones. The Barkworthies ones are fine on the carpet as well - never had any color transfer, and I'm cautious since I'm a renter. There are probably other just as good brands out there, but be cautious about where the product is made - no Chinese produced bully sticks (per my vet).

Another good option are puzzle games. There are tons of types, and they have the advantage of both entertaining your dog, and giving them mental exercise at the same time. Nina Ottosson ones are fabulous, but they aren't very cheap (and can be a bit complicated, and often require more interaction from the human). My dog loves the Ethical Pet brand ones for some reason this is her favorite one. They are kind of boring looking, but she seems to be more willing to engage with those than the flashier ones.

I usually get chicken jerky and use kitchen shears to cut the strips up into tiny little pieces, and use those in the puzzle games as opposed to traditional treats. I also use string cheese and carrot pieces, and she loves 'em.

Have you looked into nosework? This comment does a good job of laying out structured nosework. But, for my dog (Lhasa Apso), I usually just take the cut up pieces of chicken jerky and toss 'em around the room - they have a pretty strong smell, and she just goes off searching. It keeps her occupied for a good bit, and then she just takes a nap.

• I have this Crate and this seems like it would be a good size. Don't get it any bigger than you have to or the dog is more likely to pee/poop in one corner and sleep in the other.
  
  
• If she's smelly and seems scared of a bath, some pet wipes will hold you over until she seems more chill
  
  Toys:
  
  
• Get a Kong, fill with cooked sweet potato, peanut butter, plain yogurt with a little kibble mixed in, etc, then freeze till solid, and give to your dog for a treat that stimulates them mentally, keeps them busy, and helps with separation anxiety.
  
  
• Hide-a-Squirrel. An interactive toy- you stuff the log with squirrels and any other toys you have and let your dog have a blast tearing them out
  
  
• Treat dispensing toy you can use to actually feed your dog her meals if she eats too fast. I like this one because you can change the difficulty by making the hole openings smaller or larger
  
  
• Lastly if you have no idea what kind of toys she likes and are striking out (and have a little extra dough lying around and want to treat yo-self), you might want to try ordering BarkBox (you can almost always get a free month when signing up so google coupon codes before ordering). I did it for about a year and a half and was always blown away by the quality and the amazing way they curate each box to fit a theme. The toys were always adorable!
  
  I didn't know about the 2 Week Shutdown when I got my dog and while things turned out okay in the end, I definitely think it would have been VERY beneficial to do it. So best of luck and please update us with pics when she gets home!

I have a reactive dog, too. Today we had a particularly stressful walk... we weren’t even a block from home when she went and lost her mind barking at my very sweet elderly neighbors who were also out for a walk. It was pretty much downhill from there.

We have been working so hard on dealing with her reactivity, and she has made a lot of progress... But... this is not what I wanted... I wanted a dog that I could take places, go hiking with, take to the dog park, who could play with my friend’s dogs, not freak out on my neighbors...and it’s hard to come to terms with what I actually have. It can be very stressful.

It helped to accept her for what she is. To realize that she is not going to be the dog that I pictured having. I don’t know what the cause of her anxiety is, but I know that she’s been through a lot in her two years. It helps to think about how much progress we have made, to celebrate the baby steps. It helps to realize that dogs, like people, can have bad days too. I try not to let her reactivity overshadow her many other great qualities. But yeah, that can be pretty hard sometimes.

I recommend picking up a copy of the book The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. It’s a fantastic book with a lot of insight about dog behavior and their interactions with us. She is also the author of Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog , which I also recommend.

Have you gone to any training/obedience classes with him or had a trainer/behaviorist work with him? That's a good first step. Look for a trainer or training class that favors positive, force-free methods over corrections. Most of his behavior sounds normal for a young, energetic dog who doesn't know yet what good manners are or why they're worth following. It makes perfect sense for him not to listen to you outside, too; everything else is just so interesting (picture a 10 year-old kid being told to focus on his homework in the middle of Disneyland). It takes a lot of work to get a dog to focus on you outside and near distractions. So patience, repetition, lots more positive reinforcement, and most importantly time and consistency.

The fear aggression is a bit higher priority, though. A behaviorist is good for this. There are also books and videos you can look into in the meantime, such as BAT 2.0 and The Cautious Canine.

There are a couple of other users mentioning the use of a shock collar. If you decide to go the route, put it at the absolute bottom of your list as very last resort. Punishment like that comes with a lot of risks, such as making fear and aggression worse and developing new triggers. Plus, it won't actually show the dog what you want it to do, so it will be a painful "no, don't do that" without showing what the right behavior is--that's achieved through positive reinforcement, time and patience. And you stay consistent with the +reinforcement, you likely won't need the collar at all. All of this in aside from the fact that I and many others do not accept shock collars to be humane or ethical. I don't believe in inflicting pain, and moreover, you can't fix fear with pain. Pain can only cause fear, and in an already fearful dog, that's a recipe for disaster.

One last thing: increase his exercise amount. He's young, so he's got lots of energy and craves and outlet for it as well as mental stimulation. Tiring him out every day will make him substantially easier to handle and train.

No matter what you choose, I wish you good luck. Training will be challenging, but it can also be so much fun. I hope the best for you and him both.

Here's my list of favorite training resources:

• Jane Killion (Great book: When Pigs Fly: Training Success with Impossible Dogs)
  
• Karen Pryor (Great books: Don't Shoot the Dog & Reaching the Animal Mind)
  
• Sophia Yin (Great book: How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves)
  
• Jean Donaldson (Great books: Fight! & The Culture Clash)
  
• Pat Miller (Great book: The Power of Positive Dog Training)
  
• Patricia McConnell (Great book: The Other End of the Leash)
  
• Ian Dunbar. He's done a lot of work with puppies and has a blog and tons of articles as well as a TED Talk.
  
• Zak George
  
• Kikopup
  
• Kristin Crestejo
  
• A great article on canine body language/calming signals: Calming Signals: The Art of Survival by Turid Rugaas.
  
• 101 Things You Can Do With A Box.

I own and love this comb and this looks very similar to a fantastic comb one of my coworkers uses.

For slickers, Les Poochs makes some pretty awesome ones - their red one is amazing at dematting! Unfortunately they're also really expensive! If you don't mind spending, the Pro Brush (F/F) would be the way to go. If you're cheap like me, this has very good reviews and should perform acceptably as well. I personally like flexible slickers, so I recommend them.

Truthfully I seldom use undercoat rakes. A high velocity blow dryer (k9 brand is good - don't bathe at home without a blower, it's a good investment) serves the purpose for me both with my own dog and with the dogs at work. Still, if you want an undercoat rake, stay away from things that have blades - Furminators, Furminator knock-offs, Mars Coat Kings, coat king knock offs. There's a time and place for those but I would not personally use them on a spitz of any breed. Something like this will do. I also like shedding combs though I haven't found one without a handle yet.

Additional stuff: you need a good pair of nail clippers, and I also recommend spray like The Stuff or Ice on Ice to keep things feeling nice and fresh.

A MUTE BUTTON

Ok, but seriously...It's expensive, but I've heard of some breeders sending this home with their puppies. I bought one myself and left it with the breeder during our last visit before pick up so she could let the puppies play with an sufficiently rub their smells all over it (which resulted in us getting a photo of our puppy snuggled up to it a few hours later). It's a great transitional device for them leaving the litter.

Something I do with all my dogs, and maybe something that would be nifty from a breeder, is having a binder with important information pertaining to the dogs, and dividers for different categories. I keep their health records in there, the 3 page document with information we get when I bring them home, registration paperwork, print outs from class, certificates, etc. I think getting a binder to neatly store all important information on my dog is very useful, and getting one from the breeder with suggestions on training, expected puppy behavior, etc. would be pretty useful.

But really, I've never had a lot sent home with me after getting dogs, beyond a gallon bag of food to transition with and a toy that smells like mom.

• Culture Clash
  
• The Other End of the leash
  
• Execl-Erated Learning
  
• Don't Shoot the Dog
  
• The Thinking Dog: Crossover clicker training
  
  All of the above in that order. The first two are on dogs in general and how to work with them with out being a dick. The other three are serious books on dog training theory. The last one especially is amazing and well worth a read once you get the other concepts down.
  
  One other book I would highly recommend to read
  
  
• Be the pack leader
  
  The reason I recommend it once you get in to dog training you are going to her a lot pro and against Caesar Milan. And it is far better to be informed so you can speak competently about it. Honestly I don't think he is the great satan he is made out to be. People need to exercise their dogs more and take an active role in training them. More people need to preach this message. Its mostly the flooding and dominance theory that I personally to find to be bunk.
  
  Read it and read it after you have read the above books so you can be prepared to talk with those that have him as their one and only dog training resource. Don't be a douche with them and put up your nose and shout them down but help try to steer them to other resources instead.
  
  So now you have read books and watched DVDs what now?
  
  Practice! How do you practice? Damn good question. If you have your own dog start there and then find yourself a local rescue or shelter in need and in most metro areas there are.
  
  Volunteer to work with shelter dogs this has many advantages.
  
  
• There is no shortage of dogs that need help
  
• You will be working with dogs at their worst and most stressed
  
• You will get a lot of experience with several kinds of dogs (small, big, hyper, calm, kennel stressed, flat out crazy, shy, confident)
  
• These dogs need the most help and you will be quietly literally for some of them saving their lives by making them more adoptable and staving off kennel stress
  
  NOTE: My own personal bias. Clicker training is godlike. I am getting faster and better results than I ever did with yank and crank or even with lure and reward! I also do all my dog work pro bono with local shelters and rescues.
  
  Example: Teaching a dog to walk at heel in under 45 minutes, with it being solid after only 4 training sessions, completely off lead by 6. Even with my best lure and reward this took months.
  
  TLDR: Read up, get some skills, practice on crazy dogs in shelters, come back to us and ask again after you get a few thousand hours under your belt.
  

Have you taken any psych classes? Intro to Psych is a very good and, IMO, very necessary foundation for being a trainer. It's not animal-specific, but a lot of the info is easily translatable to training animals.

Have you taken an animal behavior class? That's a good foundations class to take if it's offered in a community college or your university, if you attend one.

In regards to being able to read the dog's emotional state: Turid Rugaas' little booklet on Calming Signals is pretty helpful and well worth the $8. I learned a lot from Canine Body Language by Brenda Aloff when I first got my dog. Correctly identifying the dog's emotional state is step #1 in successfully working with dogs.

When you have cats I really don't think crate training is optional, sorry! I really do think you have to do it. It's just the safest thing. And I think the cats would probably be a lot happier if they get to sleep where they normally would. Having as many things as possible be "normal" for them might make the transition easier. I would say put the gate in the hallway leading to the bedrooms (if you have one) and let the cats have that whole side of the apartment.

This is the gate I got. There are probably better ones but the price was right lol. One of the reviews said it held up to their 80lb GSD for a year so I was sold lol. I'm going to pull the door off the cat hole tho so I don't have to worry about it swinging shut on them.

For what it's worth I don't think you're overreacting. The puppy is big and puppies are clumsy and it sounds like they're not all getting along yet. You have to keep everyone safe :)

My 10 lb dog loves the IQ ball and we've got the larger size (4"). We've also got a Wobbler that she enjoys, but I think I should have gotten the Bob-a-lot instead. I borrowed a Bob-a-lot from a friend, and it seemed like it was more challenging and I liked that the hole size is adjustable (I taped over most of the Wobbler's hole to make it smaller). The Busy Buddy Twist & Treat is pretty good too.

We did so much polite behavior training yesterday. Kirin did downs and sits while waiting for dogs, scooters, etc to pass! We had a funny moment with this guy watching us train and then he joined us for like 5 mins of our walk asking about him and the breed 😂. That was new for me ..

PS my American peeps the treat and train is on SUPER SALE on Amazon. $63+ tax! Ours gets here today which we bought off a friend and I'm so exited to use it for mat work!

PetSafe Treat & Train Manners Minder Remote Reward Dog Trainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PpDPDbPE2XATX

Jumping in to recommend the Bob-A-Lot that I got my dog a few months ago. It seems to be a little more work for her than the Kong Wobbler since you can adjust the hole that the food comes out of. If I don't feed her out of that, I use this dog bowl. Another good way for me to wear her brain out is to take the meal with us on our walks and train a little as we go.

Just recently my friend got me this toy and she loves it. She'll pull all the toys out and play with them for a while, then wait while I stuff them back in again.

Good luck!! I really hope you get to keep your pupper!

Someone already mentioned BAT training, look that up straightaway!

This book helped me a lot, it is designed for agility dogs with dog reactivity, but it has lots of specific exercises for you to do with your dog. For the ones that require other dogs I improvised- like I would work 100-300 ft away from a fenced dog park.

I also really love anything Patricia McConnell and this specific pamphlet is about leash reactivity. Short, to the point, honestly anything Patricia McConnell you can get your hands on would help you get an idea on the training methods you need to use.

Lastly, the Protocol for Relaxation by Dr. Karen Overall is just a basic exercise (you repeat it the same basic thing many many times), I feel like it greatly increased my dog's calmness and his ability to be calm/relaxed in various situations. This exercise doesn't directly relate to dog aggression, but it does teach your dog what you want him or her doing while a variety of crazy things are going on.

edit: For safety, I would keep your dog physically separated from other dogs at all times. Don't try to 'get over' the aggressiveness by forcing him to meet other dogs. If you are walking down the street and a person with a dog is walking towards you (or a loose dog!), immediately turn around and walk the other way. Or you could make a huuuuuuuuge arc around them. If you think your dog might bite another dog or a person I would use a basket muzzle.

Are you looking for training treats, or longer lasting things? I'll give examples of both. Bobb only has 4 teeth and is about 10 years old, also from horrific unspeakable neglect (he also only has 2 legs). Things that have worked great for him:
-Treats: Baked sweet potato. I bake them at home so I can leave them a little bit soft. Super easy, I do peel them but you don't have to.
-Treats: Small bits of meat, cheese, pizza crust, fries, etc. Everything in moderation!
-Treats: Kibble. Bobb loves kibble and this is our #1 treat. We use high quality grain free kibble as treats for his physical therapy exercises and for a lot of our training and enrichment. Dogs don't need to chew kibble so it's great to use for training treats. Easy to factor in to his diet too.
-Long lasting: Himalayan Chews have been a big hit, they are too hard to chew but provide hours and hours and hours of licking and gumming. There are different sizes available.
-Long lasting: Licking stuff out of a small Kong or the Busy Buddy Twist n Treat. Peanut butter, plain yogurt, mashed potato, cottage cheese, canned food, cream cheese. If you're using it for training or reward, you can let him get a few licks.

I have a very neurotic/anxious dog and the best thing I can suggest is time. She was on clomicalm (dog prozac) for 2 years. We tried crating her at first but she kept making her nose bleed by trying to shove it through the wires. So for the first few months we didn't crate her at all, but left her in the bathroom. She scratched the hell out of the door, but oh well. When we were home we tried to get her used to the crate (putting treats in the crate and letting her get them out, then putting her in the crate for increasing amounts of time while we were home, then finally leaving her in the crate while we ran a short errand...etc).
These books (I'll be home soon and Don't leave me) were extremely helpful.

Eventually we were able to crate her full time (a friend who works nearby let her out at lunch). She never liked the crate like some dogs do. Sometimes she would go in when we told her "Ok time to get in your crate." Sometimes we had to put her in there. Everytime she gave us the most pitiful look. For a while she would poop in the crate (out of anxiety, she was house trained) and we would have to clean the crate everyday (and I'd rather her poop in there than injure herself). But eventually that stopped. Suffice to say she never liked the crate, but she didn't injure herself.

Now she roams free during the day (we did it similar to how she was crated...first for short periods, then longer) and she does fine with it.

Separation anxiety is so difficult and frustrating. Just keep at it and keep trying. It's a long process and there's no 100% fix. Just patience (and love, at the risk of sounding corny). Try to introduce him to the crate slowly. Even if he doesn't like the crate, he can learn to tolerate it. And definitely get help from a behaviorist if you're able. We didn't go so far as hiring one, but I went to a few free "anxious dogs" seminars given by a behaviorist that were sponsored by a local dog rescue (where I was recommended the books above) and it gave me a lot of insight.

Hang in there and don't give up!

Meds aren't going to fix your dog's SA without training, but they can definitely help with training. I would recommend working with a behaviorist and picking up a copy of Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs, I'll Be Home Soon, and Don't leave me!, as well as talking with your vet about medications. There are several prescriptions that can help with SA, and your vet is your best bet for finding one that works for you and your dog.

I think that u/jaspersnake has great suggestions on how to address your immediate issues. And here is a prior post on growling that includes good advice.

To develop a better relationship with the dog over the long term, I think that reading at a general level would help. Patricia McConnell’s For the Love of a Dog addresses how to interpret and respond to dog “emotions,” including fear in particular (I'd say BF's dog is fearful). That might be a good place to start. Jean Donaldson’s Culture Clash is another book that’s often recommended. It’s very good, but not as smooth a read. In my opinion there aren’t a whole lot of great websites on dog behavior and dog training. Patricia McConnell’s site has training resources and a blog, both of which include wonderful material but are a bit clunky to navigate. Dog Star Daily is also very sound, but again a bit clunky.

I would recommend reading a lot, as there are some things you should have before the dog comes home and you should be prepared for the first day. This book is often recommended. Too often people have the mindset of "just wait and see what happens" and that can create a lot of problems down the road.

Is somebody going to be home with the puppy? He will need to pee every two or so hours, so if you both work full time I would recommend hiring someone to come let him out so housebreaking is less difficult of a process.

People are in your situation and post about it all the time so I'm going to copy something I said to someone recently:

"If I had to pick three things: be consistent, be patient, and socialize her.

Elaborating:
Be consistent. Don't let her get away with anything you wouldn't let an adult dog do (sleep on the bed, jump on you, bite at your hands). Don't let her up on the couch once and expect to be able to tell her "no" the next time without her being confused.

Be patient. The hardest thing for me to do was to accept the fact that the way you communicate normally often doesn't work for dogs. Yelling doesn't convey your meaning better. Saying "no!" over and over again doesn't help them understand. Remind yourself she has only been alive for three months, it's no surprise she doesn't understand how the world works!

Socialize her. Puppies need to be out exploring the world while they're young, so they don't become fearful or aggressive. This doesn't mean you take her to a dog park and plop her down in a group of dogs. It means slowly going out and meeting new people and animals and getting used to all sorts of sights and sounds - but all at her pace. Letting her get overwhelmed and fearful isn't socializing. A great way to start is in a puppy class. She's old enough to be enrolled in one. If you can, do one at a local trainer, not one of the big stores like Petsmart or Petco. If you can't find a local trainer, one of those stores is better than nothing but sometimes the trainers are really not that experienced.

I also recommend going to /r/puppy101 or /r/dogtraining and reading their sidebars and wikis."

But again, read a book written by a professional. There's no way a comment can cover everything you should know before you bring a dog home, or really, even before you buy a dog. If you plan on having your dog join you in therapy work, I hope you told this to the breeder and had them select the pup that had the best temperament for this.

Not trying to be nitpicky, but it's Beagle, not beagel.

Trick training is amazing to wear out your dog's brain and you can make major progress in as little as two 10 minute sessions a day. Check out Kyra Sundance's books:

101 Dog Tricks

10 Minute Dog Training Games

101 Ways to do More With Your Dog

Kyra runs the Do More With Your Dog website which is an easy way to earn titles with your dog by doing tricks. At the lower levels anyone can sign off as witness to your dog's tricks to earn the titles so you don't have to be in a class or anything (though classes are fun and the DMWYD website has resources to find local trainers)

You can also check out brain engaging toys such as these (NOTE these toys should be used with supervision so your dog doesn't eat the toy!)

-Ethical Pet Seek-A-Treat Shuffle Bone Dog Puzzle

-Ethical Pet Seek-A-Treat Flip 'N Flap Dog Puzzle

-Nina Ottosson Plastic Dog Brick Interactive Interactive Doy Toy Puzzle for Dogs, Plastic

-Nina Ottosson Dog Casino Interactive Doy Toy Puzzle for Dogs, Wood

Really any toy by Nina Ottosson is a good choice.

Enrichment can also be as easy as not feeding your dog out of a bowl. Try these (can be used with less direct supervision)

-Nina Ottosson Dog Treat Maze

-Kong Wobbler

And my dogs have constant access to these chewies (i leave these in their crates as well as long as they don't chew them down small enough to be choking risks).

-Nylabone

-Busy Buddy Treat Holding Bone

-Busy Buddy Jack

-Refills for the above Busy Buddy bones

-Busy Buddy for extreme chewers

Our dog generally doesn't bark at people passing close but sometimes does if they talk to us or try to approach. I'm very firm with people that they can't approach because she's uncomfortable and we don't want her to practice barking.

You'll want to recruit some friends to help you. You'll want to find the distance where your dog is comfortable passing people and give treats to your dog as you pass. Then you can move a bit closer and do the same.

Our behaviorist also advised us practicing a "pet" command. As we pet we would say "pet" so with strangers she'd maybe know what to expect.

I found Patricia McConnell's booklet helpful: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1891767003

Kikopup also has some videos about barking while out on walks: https://youtu.be/Eo-L2qtD7MQ

It also takes time. We've had our dog five months and last weekend she was around a large family event with very little uncomfortable barking. That would have been impossible with her a month or two ago but we've done a lot of practice passing strangers, other dogs, treating and I think she trusts us more and has more confidence.

If you want to true and utter control you should get a Chia Pet. You can find them here; https://chia.com/ .

​

1. Puppies and adult dogs don't like to be alone, they want to be with you. They follow you around.
   
2. Puppies and dogs, like people, like to know what's going on in their surroundings. It's an inborn survival trait.
   
3. That's also why they try to lead when walking. Puppies and adult dogs see the world through their nose, it's how they get and process information about their surroundings.
   
4. Your puppy is not trying to control you, he/she already knows you are in charge. Puppies and adult dogs behave in ways designed to get the things they need from you. They need food, they need love, they need stimulation (walks/play/exercise). Stop trying to 'control' your pet and instead 'teach' them to use the behaviours that you like by rewarding those behaviours with good things, i.e.: treats, play with a favourite toy etc.. Ignore the behaviours you dislike, i.e.: bringing him back to his place without comment, turning away when he jumps up on you etc.. You and your pet will both be happier. Please don't buy into any dog whispering bullshit, you'd be better off buying a book like this; https://www.amazon.ca/Talking-Terms-Dogs-Calming-Signals/dp/1929242360/ref=asc_df_1929242360/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939055252&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8123898998845343117&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000855&hvtargid=pla-426747736299&psc=1 and learning how to communicate with your pet.
   
   ​

The less you know about a dog's history with cats, the more precautions you should take in my opinion. You can always let your precautions go as time goes on, but you can't undo the dog terrifying or even injuring the cat. I had originally written out what I did with my new dog (a week and a half in now), but I don't feel comfortable laying out my path for someone who has a terrier. Here are some tips:

• Put your cat's food, water, and litter all in the room they're enclosed into so they're not too scared to eat/eliminate. Make sure your cat gets attention in there, so for instance my cat was in my bedroom which meant we had quality time in bed at night/in the morning.
  
  
• Rather than locking your cat in, you can get a dog gate with a cat door in it (I have this one ). A dog could easily wedge into the cat door or pull down a tension gate so it's definitely only a supervision thing, but it will let your cat explore at his/her own pace.
  
  
• Crate train your dog ASAP. You don't want the dog loose while you're out of the house or sleeping. It will also help to have the dog contained and let the cat wander through the room to see the dog's reaction.
  
  
• Especially if you use the gate, the dog must be leashed at ALL TIMES when not in her crate.
  
  
• Whenever the dog sees the cat, ask her to look away. This is going to be your gauge for how possible this situation is. It can range from: her looking directly at you and forgetting the cat was even there to looking at you but checking back in on the cat when he moves all the way to cannot be distracted even with treats.
  
  
• If things progress to them checking each other out closely (dog still on leash), let the cat correct the dog. This is important for 2 reasons: you want to make sure that the dog's response to a hiss and swat is to back off (not defend or bite) and you also want the dog to learn that the cat is the boss.
  
  I am lucky in that my dog is already off leash and unrestricted when I'm home, she deferentially walks around my cat and won't walk through a doorway if my cat is sitting in/near it. She is all tail wags and friendly but so far has not crowded the cat. She is still going to be crated for a long time when I sleep/am gone, especially because once she settles into the house in a few weeks she may become more confident and start harassing him.
  
  Introducing an adult dog to a cat is a full-time job that will probably last at least 6 months if everything goes well. You have your work cut out for you trying this with an adult terrier who already likes to chase raccoons (though, my dog fixates hard on squirrels outside but that behavior doesn't translate to my cat).

We have three cats and a dog. Both this dog and our previous dog LOVED cat poop. Two key items 100% solved our problems:

1. Doorway gate with cat door: https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Tall-Gate-Small/dp/B000JJFNJK/
   
2. Litter cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/Merry-Products-Washroom-Bench-White/dp/B004E8M7PK/
   
   As a bonus, the doorway gate provides a room where the dog is never allowed. This is pretty key to most peaceful cat/dog coexistence situations. The cats need to know they have a space they can retreat to that is safe and all their own.

We use the large KONG Extreme Dog Toy, Medium, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GUDZO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQ81AbHCEGYVC, trixies flipboard 2 TRIXIE Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RR81AbJEX56X9. treat ball OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oS81AbJ0XDRE8, a treat hiding thing Dog Smart Treat Dispensing Dog Toy Brain and Exercise Game for Dogs by Nina Ottosson https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MS81AbJWBH0TC, a rolling nibble kibble PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy, Medium/Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RRUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FT81AbYG9PW7N, a self toy KONG Rambler Ball, Large (colors vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BBGRT4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wU81AbYC200R4, and a large tug a jug PetSafe Medium/Large Sportsmen Tug A Jug Pet Chew Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4KZ8M0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LV81AbFBTP67F.

The kong I use spread treats inside because dry treats last only a few seconds.

Trixies flipboard is low to meh at getting her attention, sometimes she doesnt care for the food to bother with it.

Iq treat ball she finds a way to break, pushing into a wall, chomping on it, the moment you look away.

The hide a treat thing is easy for her.

The nibble kibble is the same as the treat ball.

The kong rambler she easily pulls the ball from its station and the toy is moot, now its just a ball.

The tug a jug becomes a weapon that she whips around until it smashes open.

The one thing I have noticed that can keep her attention is a pile of wood we have outside. Inside that pile of wood is chipmunks and squirrels that she messes with until I call her over. I'm thinking that she enjoys live toys? Or does she it as just something for her to herd.

This comment might help you out.

I don't know that we have a favorite. I like the the Omega treat ball or Snoop if I need a quieter toy (I have neighbors below me, so that's what she gets in the morning). When some noise is acceptable, I like the Magic Mushroom or the Bob-a-lot, they're both adjustable. I also really like Tug-a-jug because it's a bit different than the others, it's not something she can just roll around to get the food out. But I know some dogs would chew the rope to pieces so it wouldn't work very well for them.

First, congratulations! I'm excited for you. Reminds me of my first time and the excitement it brought. Here's a list of things I learned to keep on hand for my Dobbie:
 

• Oatmeal Shampoo - Oatmeal naturally conditions fur and keeps skin hydrated. My Dog had dandruff and I didn't want to get anything that was medicated. This shampoo helped keep the coat clean and shiny.
   
  
  
• Grizzly Salmon Oil Supplement - Most dog food sold in bulk is full of corn, grains and ground up tendons and bones. If you're not adding meats, whole grains, pumpkin, etc to his diet, just kibble by itself doesn't contain enough nutrients. Salmon oil was also recommended by my Vet. to help keep skin, coat healthy. Just a small squirt on top of kibble and he seemed to really love his meal.
   
  
  
• Grain free Turkey Jerky - All treats don't have to be biscuits or rawhide. These are some healthier alternatives and not that expensive either.
   
  
  
• High Quality Nail Clippers - If you plan on trimming his nails yourself. Mine wouldn't let me at first, but with some training, patience and treats, this became easier and saves atleast $10-$15 dollars each time on nail-trims at the groomers.

Check out books by Patricia McConnell (especially The Other End of the Leash), Brenda Aloff's guide to canine body language, Stanley Coren, Jean Donaldson's Culture Clash, Jane Killion's When Pigs Fly. Dogstardaily is great and has some free e-books. Also check out NILIF as a good way to institute structure without resorting to "dominance methods" and this page has some great advice as well.

My dog hasn't ever really "gotten" the logic toys that are in the form of a ball that you roll around, but we've started getting him puzzleboards and he loves them! It took him a while to learn and he gets super excited now whenever we bring it out. There's a whole series of them and we're about to get our bud his second one!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054Q9TMA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499449077&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+trixie+puzzle+board&dpPl=1&dpID=416kgbG3sHL&ref=plSrch

He can improve with continued work, but given what is known about the genetic and developmental basis for fearfulness, I don't think he's going to outgrow it, ie, completely become a normally non-fearful dog.

It's important that you control socialization to make it all good. The outdoor restaurant was too uncontrolled, and resulted in more harm than good - the biggest positive was probably the encouragement it gave you that he could do well with large groups. That's important, but was offset by his having 4 unintended lessons in growling and barking and menacing children.

This book is often recommended for fearful dogs.

https://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-How-Conquer-Their-Fears/dp/1891767003

Working with a behaviorist is very, very helpful.

Sorry for the delayed response! Our aussie was only destructive if he was left outside, and trying to get back inside. He's inside with use when we're home, and I think his anxiety was worse by not being in his comfortable place (inside). The two biggest things for us were getting him plenty of exercise, and also training him to be alone and be happy.

For separation anxiety, theres a good book that's cheap on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539894781&sr=8-7&keywords=separation+anxiety+book

We followed this to the letter for about a month and made amazing progress. Now that it's been about 6 months we still give him a kong every time we leave, but for the most part he's ok being alone. Having a camera to check in on him while we're gone was also critical leading up to the longer durations of being alone as well. I'd say it took a solid 3 months before we could comfortably leave the house for 2-3 hours and leave the dog alone and not worry about him. We also bring him to doggy day care about once a week which helps with his energy levels.

One, she's probably going through a teen phase of seeing how far she can push, mine did at around that age. Two, it doesn't sound like you've been consistent enough - my GSD and I didn't 'walk' during her pulling phase. We basically moved two meters, she'd pull, I'd u-turn and we'd start again. We moved all of oh, 2-10m from my door for days. What tools are you using to make this easier for yourself? Easy walk harness? Gentle leader? Are you clicking and treating for check-ins? I frustrated the utter crap out of myself teaching it, but it worked. How often are you training? Are you letting your GSD work for food?

You also sound like your GSD has leash reactivity, which the breed seems to lean towards a little. Have you read into the CARE Protocol and worked on thresholds?

Focus wise, you have to train it. Work on focus by rewarding check ins throughout the day. Also work on focus as a training endeavour like this, and this.

Impulse control - it's yer choice and crate games, and of course impulse control games with tug/toys.

Other resources: Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt, Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out by Laura VanArendonk Baugh, Fiesty Fiedo by Patricia B. McConnell, and Fenzi Classes.

TL;DR: This is pretty normal GSD behaviour, and may be part of a teen phase. Keep chugging.

I highly recommend The Stuff after bathing and conditioning! Its a finishing spray that leaves the coat very light and in most cases will even keep your dog feeling cleaner longer. You can even use it in between baths when you brush to keep his/her coat feeling nice and soft.

Another great thing about it is that you never need much and a bottle will last you months for a little yorkie :)

Oh man, I have so many of them right now. I'm a huge fan of the Kong Wobbler but it makes too much of a mess on my floors (attracts ants -_-). I also have the Kong Tiltz which is apparently not as fun to my Shiba lol. I'm about to get a snuffle mat for Matcha! We have an IQ ball which also isn't very interesting to her lol. I have a few Starmark toys since they have lots of different interactive toys as well.

I also have this thing, which Matcha is still convinced is a chew toy lol.

The first two issues (going to the bathroom indoors and the aggression) call for a vet visit.

Excercise-wise, I'd start with two 15 minute walks/day and scale up from there to, maybe, three 20 minute walks, or 60 minutes of walking or outdoor play spread out over the day (20 in the morning, 40 at night, etc).

Puzzle toys are great too. I recently got this toy for my pup, he really loves it, it's solidly built and pretty inexpensive.

I love the twist and treat (link). It's nice because you can set the difficulty by deciding how tightly to twist the top down. I screwed it down all the way the first time, and my dog couldn't figure it out, but once I loosened it, she was able to really start working on it. Now that she's realized how to twist it open (she's also part pittie and used to just stick her jaw in there and wedge it open!), it still takes her a while to rub it against the carpet while pulling at the top. Good luck!

We've been using this one for the past few months and it's been great. It takes my dog about 7-10 minutes to get all the food out. Plus it's super entertaining to watch her play with it.

Ok, then you need to do counter conditioning, not just training. See if you can find a "Reactive Rover" Class, which is specifically for addressing this issue. They base their classes on this book.http://www.amazon.com/Feisty-Fido-Help-Leash-Reactive-Dog/dp/1891767070/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1463417697&sr=1-1&keywords=feisty+fido

You can just read the book, but the class gives you an opportunity to practice and do drills in a controlled setting. I took it with my dog and it did help. I will say, that if I go for a long time without walking with him and practicing what they train he will regress, so it is an ongoing process, but I did make a lot of progress with him...

This is a great primer for body language.

Preventing leash reactivity is fairly simple. You train the dog to focus on you using whatever it is the dog finds motivating. Then you slowly use those skills out in the world. Over time the dog learns that other dogs = something great and focusing on you.

The growling is usually a signal of him being uncomfortable with the situation. The protocol above with help with that because it returns the focus to you rather than keeping it on the other dog.

The Kong Wobbler and Bobs-a-lot are great toys. I also use a Tricky Treat ball a lot. My dogs also really love the Snoop.

You could also try the Tug-a-Jug, Kibble Nibble, or Buster Cube.

Maybe his butt itches? :-P

Sniffing the butt is polite in the dog world - it's less threatening than a face to face meeting. When a dog turns his back he is saying "I'm not a threat" it makes the other dog more likely to react in a peaceful way, and your dog is calmed by this too.

Some references:

• Calming Signals
  
  
• Illustrations by Lili Chin - the whole album is awesome.
  
  
• Giant book of Canine Body Language
  
  

Treat dispensing toys, puzzles, flirt pole (puppy can play with this some but no jumping or sharp turns), kongs, crate, training treats, blankets, enzymatic cleaner. And beanie babies for my dog that is obsessed with them :P

You can also get food/bully sticks/antlers on amazon but I usually order them from chewy.com

Edit:

Here are some of our favorite training treat brands.

Treat dispensing toy examples

Switch to a better food.. I use taste of wild wetland.. Go to trader joes or a organic food store and pick up a jar of coconut oil.. I say trader joes because that's where I've seen it the cheapest.. Mix a tablespoon in to its food once a day.. Start slow tho.. With like a teaspoon then work your way up to about a tablespoon in a half through a couple weeks.. Some dogs if you mix to much in at first will get a belly ache..

Also brush the dog then rub some coconut oil on the problem area.. I rub a little all over them helps with smell and keeps him soft.. Then brush one more time to work it through.

This helped a lot for my dog.. I recently started adding salmon oil once a day too his food.. His skin is even better and much shiner.. I use

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-All-Natural-Supplement-Pump-Bottle-Dispenser/dp/B0002ABR6E

Hope this helps

Oh dear. I agree that a puppy class is definitely in order, but as far as books, I really like Patricia McConnell - The Puppy Primer probably makes the most sense. She could also probably use a book on the breed, like Barron's Dog Bible: Siberian Huskies.

We have Labs and have to slow them down while eating or otherwise they can get bloat, which is potentially lethal.

The behavior consultant we hired to iron out some cat cohabitation issues recommended we feed our dogs by putting the food in one of these.
Works great, and it's actually intellectually stimulating for the dog.

There are SO MANY things you can work on training, even with a small space. I've used this book but you could look around for one that seems interesting to you. It's really amazing how even 30 minutes of mental stimulation can tire a pup out.

Yep - hard surfaces can be extremely echoing if you don't have anything down.

Also make sure to keep up on nail trims.

If you're looking for food toys that are more apartment friendly I highly recommend this one it's not the most challenging but it's relatively quite and my dog loves chasing it around.

I agree with that- and it may sound a little 'over the top' but they make [[https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS\]](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS)">stuffed) stuffed animals (dogs) that have a 'heart beat'. When I worked at a shelter, we used these when puppies were brought in alone or had to be separated. Could be a good idea to purchase one and set up for the puppy when you need to leave (showering, going to work, etc.).

I would try with amazon if it’s not too late. this is a great treat ball, made of rubber and it has got also some accessories to make the game more challenging!

Haha, I have this Trixie flip board myself. It's pretty well made and has held up well. The only problem is that Frankfurt's too good at it now. Been trying to decide which Trixie toy to get next :P

I started giving my dog some Grizzly Salmon Oil about 2-3 months ago. It took several weeks to have a noticeable effect, but now the amount that she sheds has decreased pretty sharply and she seems to be much softer and her coat is much brighter.

My go to toy for Charlie when she's home alone is always a Kong with mix of kibble, veggies, chicken/turkey and peanut butter/greek yogurt depending on what I have in the fridge. Freeze overnight. Charlie loves working on those and they're indestructible. Another treat dispensing toy Charlie likes is the Pet Safe Buddy Twist Treat.

I smear peanut butter or greek yogurt on the insides and then put her kibble in. Takes her maybe 5-10 minutes to finish if I haven't put it in the freezer overnight.

You could try switching to a fish flavored food. However, Earthbath makes a few deodorizing sprays that work as leave in conditioners. Our groomers use The Stuff its concentrated so it lasts forever. Smells amazing and definitely helps keep flakes away!

Zoe is a toy destroyer! I've found a few good toys that I will list below.

1. Bionic Urban Stick This thing is indestructible! It also has 2 holes in the ends for treats to be stuffed into.
   
   
2. Flatskinz This is the only plush toy Zoe can have without destoying it and swallowing all the fluff...because there is no fluff.
   
   
3. Twist 'n Treat This isn't for sure indestructible, but it's quite tough. She LOVES this and you can adjust it for many different treat types, but I have to take it away once shes emptied all the food out, otherwise she gnaws on it and can break it a little bit.

Wood Treat Puzzles like the ones Zanie's, Ethical Pets, and Nina Ottosson make are all ones my pit likes. Since they're made of wood they'll last a while. Also the Premier Tug-a-Jug has kept him guessing for 2 weeks now.

There are a couple great books that I'll recommend:

• Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Sophia Yin
  
• The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell
  
  There are many other puppy books, but those are my favorite.

I bought one of these and one of these. Hopefully she gets the flip board. She only likes toys that are food related so I want more enrichment for her.

I was thinking of getting her one of these treat balls for her food too.

She eats soooo fast and then she burps so I am getting worried about it! I have been trying 3x a day.

Honestly if this were my dog I would go in the bathroom, turn on the water, and at the first bark dash out and say "no, quiet" I would do that for a bit then get in the shower, but I would also leave a shower soapy and wet to correct for barking. My dogs aren't allowed to bark ever though. I am pretty crazy about it, but I have to be, I could not have my dogs if they barked. If I had a problem barker I'd get a treat and train so I could reward quiet behavior without leaving the bathroom.

Treat and train https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0010B8CHG
Put the remote in a baggy so it doesn't get wet.

Starmark Bob-a-lot is the best, completely adjustable.

With Busy Buddy, our favourites are the Kibble Nibble & Magic Mushroom.

He also loves his Buster Cube and IQ Ball (be careful it's smaller than you think).

I think I should note though that I don't care about the amount of noise that toys make on the floor. I've seen complain about some of these for that reason so if that's something you need to be aware of probably only the Bob a lot.

I always recommend Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar, because it really puts into perspective the responsibilities of owning a dog, and the potential long-term consequences of not meeting these responsibilities. It's also an excellent read to learn more about preventing behavior problems, because in my opinion, it's so much easier to prevent behavior problems than it is to try to resolve them later.

I've been enjoying this book a lot and many people recommend it. If you want a taste of it a lot of his info is on this website for free


Edit: a word

Well, I almost cringe to recommend it because it's very dry and the author consistently uses 20 pages to say what could be said in a paragraph but I'll tell you 'The Culture Clash' by Jean Donaldson is pretty comprehensive & understandable. Then again, my perception might just be because I'm fairly A.D.D. and have no patience for long-windedness.

Hey there! I would recommend you check out Dr. McConnell's book on separation anxiety. It is a short read and available from Amazon for $5. It can take a bit of work and several weeks, but it is well worth it. You can consider using your CleverPet Hub to keep them busy once your departure does not bring them over-threshold. Here is where you can find the book: https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506700688&sr=8-3&keywords=separation+anxiety+dog+book

In addition to other great recommendations:

The Genius of Dogs
https://www.amazon.com/Genius-Dogs-Smarter-Than-Think/dp/0142180467

This one is not modern but provides a clear explanation of learning theory:
Excel-erated Learning
https://www.amazon.com/Excel-Erated-Learning-Explaining-Plain-English/dp/1888047070

And The Culture Clash
https://www.amazon.com/Culture-Clash-Understanding-Relationship-Domestic/dp/1888047054

Speak to the people who currently have the dogs and have them put a couple of blankets or towels with the dogs as they sleep so the fabrics pick up their scents, have them rub the fabric on the dogs, etc. When you pick up your puppy, take one of the pieces of fabric home with you. If you can order from Amazon, these Snuggle Puppies can help with the transition as well - they mimic a heartbeat and the warmth of a sibling (I didn't use the branded warmers, I just used the cheaper one-time use hand warmers that are basically the same thing). Give him lots of snuggles and attention and don't make him sleep alone the first few nights (it can be in a crate or pen, but let it be in the same room as you...for us, I had the crate next to the couch so I could put my hand in the crate any time he whined or cried at all).

the shelter i volunteer at gives kongs to all the dogs. i've never seen them tear one up. maybe i'll see an indentation on the kong, but i've never seen one break a piece off. seriously, hundreds of dogs, never an incident like you're describing. saint bernards, pit bulls, german shepherds, no kong incidents.

peanut butter alternatives: you can fill the kong with food mixed with peanut butter. sometimes i'll put rice and chicken in the food processor until it's a thick paste and fill the kong with that. or, you can make some "honest kitchen" wet dog food, put it in the kong, leave it in the fridge, and give it to her when you leave.

kong alternatives: i like busy buddies. I started with this one and moved up to this one (removed the rope) for my dog. This is where she gets all her food now. You can fill it with normal food if you're worried about the dog's weight. These are a little harder, so if the dog doesn't seem interested when you introduce them, you can fill them with really high value treats like hot dog pieces until she gets the hang of it.

you can give her the toys when you leave and take them away when you get home. Some people don't like to take the toy away when the dog is using it -- because it can lead to food guarding -- but that may be no big deal if you're only working on separation anxiety.

it sounds like the dog needs a lot of enrichment. in addition to toys, i would also check out clicker training. it's a good way to exercise the dog's mind and anyone can do it.

also, don't give them rawhide. bully stick instead.

more walks may help. take her down to the park and meet men. i don't have a fenced yard, either, so i got a 30ft leash so my dog can run around. i also run with the dog every now and then.

there's no magic bullet, but there are a lot of small things you can do. all this sounds like a big pain in the ass, but it's probably easier than cleaning up a bunch of trash when you get home.

also check out /r/dogtraining. there are people with actual qualifications there.

and if you decide to get professional help, check their qualifications. CeXXr MXXXn is like the Scientology of dog training. A lot of "trainers" and "behaviorists" will claim to be a "member" of a dog training association. That just means they go to conferences and pay dues. There are lots of CXXar MXXXns in disguise, like BXXk BXXXXXs. You want a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a Certified Pet Dog Trainer or a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant.

EDIT: Formatting

I too, highly recommend salmon oil for dogs. My pit had awful mange and skin irritation when we adopted him...this stuff, along with a healthy diet and Benadryl (when he seemed to be scratching himself excessively) worked miracles. It's been a year later and his coat is amazing and the mange has subsided...we give him a few pumps of salmon oil with his food everyday. Definitely purchase off Amazon you will probably not find a better deal anywhere else.

How about a treat dispensing toy?

IQ Ball

Omega Tricky Treat Ball

Planet Dog Mazee

Busy Buddy Magic Mushroom

Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble

Busy Buddy Tug a Jug

Kong Wobbler

Bob-a-Lot

Finn plays with most of his toys on a big area rug. He knows to pick it up and take it back to the rug when it rolls off. I taught him by picking up his toys and taking them back to the rug every time they fell off. He eventually got the picture.

Even so, our favorite toys are soft rubber ones. The Omega Paw Tricky Treat ball is great, and so is the Orbee Tuff Snoop. To make the Snoop harder, you can buy another ball to put inside it.

Here you go! I have that one and it works perfectly for my cat and German Shepherds.

How Dogs Learn and Culture Clash

Both great books for new and veteran dog owners.

If you want a puppy guide, I'd check out this book or this one.

For a more general dog training guide, check out this one or this one.

Hope this helps!

I’m sorry I don’t have advice but that is so sweet! I just found this thing and thought it was so cute! Maybe she would like it!

SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2giODbGRJ7JDK

Have you looked at Patricia McConnell's "Cautious Canine"? http://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-How-Conquer-Their-Fears/dp/1891767003
It's not expensive and will give you some good insight on your fearful dog, as well as teaching you to help him overcome his fears in a positive manner.

My dog loves this: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Busy-Buddy-Barnacle-Large/dp/B008JCH2A2

I've heard good things about these two, and want to try them, but haven't gotten around to it yet:

http://www.amazon.com/Starmark-Treat-Dispensing-Pickle-Pocket/dp/B007K5CL9Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1381943161&sr=1-1&keywords=pickle+pocket

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Twist-Treat-Small/dp/B0002I0RLW/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1381943180&sr=1-9&keywords=treat+dispensing+dog+toys

The person behind the biggest changes in Dog training and uncovering the myths behind the old school of thought is Dr. Ian Dunbar. He really changed the entire landscape of training. This is the book I get new puppy owners: http://www.amazon.com/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557

Anything else by him will also rock I'm sure. I also recommend

http://www.amazon.com/Culture-Clash-Jean-Donaldson/dp/1617811122/ref=pd_sim_b_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=05B0YMSXJHAPV8HKYE03

This has got to be the laziest, but most genius purchase I ever made: the Treat & Train treat dispenser. It's not super cheap, but I would pay 3 times the price for what it does! The dispenser can be set to dispense a treat at certain intervals without you having to do anything. So I just sit on the couch, and my dog will wait vigilantly for treats for HOURS. Seriously, if I left the thing on all day, I know he would sit there the whole time. He gets a brain workout from all that vigilance, and I get to do absolutely nothing.

If you want to untangle dog hair you need some of this called The Stuff. This stuff works WONDERS! At my job we sometimes have to groom dogs like Shih Tzu that really tangled. I sprayed some of this stuff my boss said to use and rubbed it into the coat. The brush started to just flow through!

Well, "aggression" for a lot of people is just "play". And there's nothing wrong in my mind with him growling at your other dog, especially if he just wants to be left alone which is his right. If your other dog isn't a complete dunce he'll hopefully pick up on that. You shouldn't punish Beck if your stepdad's dog keeps pushing him, Beck gives him clear signals he doesn't like it, and eventually Beck is forced to take more drastic action. If you want to avoid a confrontation you could always step in before it gets to that and let your dad's dog know he's being a jerk.

http://www.amazon.com/Canine-Body-Language-Photographic-Interpreting/dp/1929242352/ is a great book on dog body language if you want to study up.

This book will be extremely helpful and is only $5.45.

Ahhhhh I'm leaving on my weekend trip today and while I'm excited about my trip I'm so nervous to leave Baron for this long. I remember feeling even more nervous the first time I left for a week and had to leave my cat Castiel with my friends.

Not only am I just really attached to my animals, I've had some really horrible, awful, traumatizing experiences where some very bad things happened to previous pets (and Castiel) in my absence while I was engaged to my ex. I know those things won't happen again because that fucker is a couple states away now, and both Castiel and Baron are going to be watched by my animal loving parents who love both of them like grandchildren, but the trauma and anxiety is probably going to be in the back of my mind this weekend. My parents promised to let me facetime both of them as much as I wanted and will be sending me regular updates on them every day. I know they'll be ok. It's just stressful and the trauma is something to work through with my therapist.

I'll try to focus on being in the present moment on my trip, because I get to see my brother, sister in law, and niece for the first time in a long time. Plus they live right by the university I really, really want to end up at for grad school, and a very prominent professor there wants to meet with me this weekend. Also, this city has a very famous Belgian Waffle restaurant I haven't been to in years, plus a huge farmer's market.

On a less heavy, stressful note, Baron is becoming so much better at fetch! He loves it when I roll the ball really fast across the ground rather than throwing it throw the air. He's even bringing the ball somewhat back to me now. We just need to work on him not playing keep away with it when he gets close.

Also ordered 101 Dog Tricks yesterday and I'm so excited to have a dog trick book to guide me through Baron's trick titles.

ETA: Baron has also now discovered that it is possible to jump onto the top of my parent's spa. It's my fault. I wanted to see just how good his "up-up" was (his cue to jump on top of an object) by seeing if he'd jump onto an object that he can't see the top of. Well, turns out this dog trusts me enough to do that. He now jumps onto the spa whenever I pull out the treats and insists on doing all his tricks on top of the spa. I've created a monster. I don'r want him to hurt his joints jumping down from that so I'm going to have to carry him down.

http://www.amazon.com/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557 this is a great book, covers just about everything you need to know, gives lots of good ideas.

Here's a couple good books for ideas and instructions: book 1 and book 2

I highly recommend this book

On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas

Anything by Dr. Stanley Coren

I've found that salmon oil works well. Also, feeding your dog a grain-free diet could help. Dry, itchy skin is a common indication that a dog has a wheat allergy.

My pit bull had mange when we adopted him and also gets skin irritation sometimes--the vet recommended a Benadryl, 1mg for each pound your dog weighs. My dog is 70-75lbs so we give him (3)25mg tablets a day if he's having issues. Also, just a few pumps of salmon oil a day has done wonders for him and he has an amazing coat now. The cheapest I've found is on Amazon

I use The Stuff detangling spray. It really helps. Bizarre word of warning though, don't spray it over a wood or tile floor. Any spray that doesn't land on your dog will land on the floor and make it very slippery! I only spray it over carpet or rugs.

I also use Kinky Curly Knot Today as a leave-in conditioner on problem areas like the arm pits. It's a product for humans but it works on dogs as well. I've also rubbed a bit of this into a mat and then combed it out.

Some puzzles tend to be made of particle board and aren't very durable. Normal licking and pawing will start to make the particle board puzzles fall apart. This happened with my dog.

This is what I mean by particle board puzzles: http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-Seek---Treat-Shuffle-Puzzle/dp/B0038WP1YC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324588644&sr=8-1

It seems like that brand in particular uses the particle board type material. It would probably be fine for some dogs but my large lab mix licked and pawed and pieces fell off.

If he's decently food motivated, there are toys where the dog has to work to get the food out. Some examples-

IQ Ball

Starmark Bob a Lot

Magic Mushroom

Nina Ottosson has a line of puzzle toys. (These are more on the expensive side though, but there's a range of difficulty)

These are just a few off the top of my head... If you do a search for puzzle toys, there should be other posts with more suggestions.

If you leave the rawhides out all the time, he might just be bored or just used to them, so they're no longer a treat. If he has access to them at any time, there's nothing really special about them anymore which maybe why he ignores them.

I got this one from Amazon and it's lasted months and months. My dog gets 3 squirts a day and this bottle should last me at least 4 more months.

http://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0941PW-Extra-Tall-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJFNJK/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1419910226&sr=8-12&keywords=walk+through+gate

There's a little door that's cat sized that you can leave open. Also, I am fairly certain this one has these cup things that you can screw into the wall so that it is much harder to knock the gate down when it is put up.

this might give you some ideas

I would add The Culture Clash to that list.

Check out Turid Rugaas's awesome book on dog body language. There is a brief discussion of what she talks about in the book here.

I've used a variety in the past and have recently switched to this one

Twist and Treat

I prefer these to kongs

I have a Treat and Train It worked through walls for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-Smarter-Interactive-Inches/dp/B003ARUKU0
My irish setter uses the 5 inch one

outward hound puzzle puzzle starmark puzzle 2

You need to treat her accidents as your own fault because that's what they are. If she makes a mistake, it's because you have not been watching close enough etc. What you have done is most likely created negative feelings now associated with the bathroom which will only lead her to try and hide better or hold it longer. You need to take the time and read about dog behaviour and how to train properly and do like someone else suggested and start over like a puppy. I would suggest this book:

https://www.amazon.ca/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557

This book really helped me out. Almost two years ago, I got my first dog ever - a 9 week old Border Collie. Anyway, among other books (breed-specific, etc.), this one REALLY helped me with teaching tricks and commands:

http://www.amazon.com/101-Dog-Tricks-Activities-Challenge/dp/1592533256/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396983327&sr=8-1&keywords=101+dog+tricks

He's a baby - the crying is normal, the first week or 2 you can expect crying as he gets used to the crate. It took my girl about a week before she stopped crying in it. I also bought a sound machine off Amazon for cheap that I put on loud so she doesn't hear noises and get distracted and cry.

The toy was not the cheapest, but it works great. Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526918487&sr=8-3&keywords=puppy+toy+heart

I got a stuffed toy with a heartbeat:
https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS

She just snuggles with it when we go to sleep... Well until the time she destroyed it! But at that point she didn't really have the separation anxiety anymore.

If you can't get it or its too expensive you can DIY with a stuffed toy and an old times alarm clock... Just any watch or clock with a strong tick.
Never used the heatpack though

my border collie had a real issue with dry itchy skin and flaking. i added this salmon oil to her food once a day and the problem cleared up after a few days. i cant speak to the welts, though.

My chihuahua turned out to be able to CLIMB my first baby gate! So, I went with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0941PW-Extra-Tall-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJFNJK/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1466111174&sr=1-3&keywords=tall+dog+gate

It's 41" tall, and has only vertical bars (so no footholds). My cat can't get over it. The only problem is that there is a single 3-inch gap between bars, and my boy was able to wriggle through it - he must be able to dislocate his hips! I was able to McGyver up a solution, bringing the gap down to 2 inches, and he can no longer escape.

We've always used puzzle feeders for our dog, even as a puppy. We did some hand-feeding early on per our trainer's suggestion to make sure our dog didn't become resource aggressive, then moved to a bowl in which we would slowly drop the kibble, and then a bowl where we would add treats as he was eating.

When we started feeding kibble without any kind of interruptions, we immediately started with puzzles.

First we used the star, then went to the iq puzzle ball when our pups' snout got to big, and now use this one.

My mom adopted an nervous wreck of a dog 3 years ago, and she's just starting to come out of her shell. She would whine for over hour once my mother left the house for work, and pee on the floor when new people came over. She had not done the 'play bow' until about a year ago, would stand petrified at the dog park instead of playing. She only figured out how fetch worked this past winter. So it may take your mom's dog a bit of time to re-adjust to the new surroundings.

But I'm not a dog psychologist, so definitely talk to a professional about it. Aside from seeing a vet as /u/PikeleMaster suggested, is she very food motivated? You could try seeing if a puzzle toy of some variety might help with some mental stimulation or distract her enough to not pace.

It's not a matter of trust; don't make this into a personal thing. It's not because of my ego or whatever that I bring this up and it's not because of my credentials that you should believe me. All you had to do was Google "isolation distress" to realize that that's not a term I made up and is widely used among dog training and behavior professionals. And, again, it's a commonly ill-defined term. I'm not saying you in particular are extraordinarily confused or that you didn't pick up the definition from a professional.

Since you seem to love credentials, here is what Pat Miller (one of the world's leading dog trainers and behavior consultants) has to say in Whole Dog Journal:

> The distinction between “isolation” and “separation” is equally important. Isolation distress means the dog doesn’t want to be left alone - any ol’ human will do for company, and sometimes even another dog will fill the bill. True separation distress or anxiety means the dog is hyper-bonded to one specific person, and continues to show stress behaviors if that person is absent, even if other humans or dogs are present.

Patricia McConnell's book on separation anxiety, "I'll be Home Soon", also addresses this difference although this particular resource is not available for free. Again, since you love credentials, Dr. McConnell is a CAAB and one of the foremost experts in her field of ethology (the study of animal behavior).

Anyway, I don't want to go on about this because it's not relevant to OP's thread, but just consider why you're being bullheaded about this. If somebody presents you with information you didn't previously have, maybe you could think about it for a second before snapping back, "No, you're definitely wrong; I've worked with a behaviorist before thankyouverymuch."