Top products from r/electrical

The writing on the wire is the maximum rating of the wire. Parts of Europe use 240 v as the standard mains voltage while North America and other places use 120 v. The heater was made with the 300 v cable as it could then ship anywhere and the manufacturer put the plug on at the last minute once they knew where it was going to be shipped.

The standard is 120 volts average, but the actual voltage out of the wall varies a little bit. The plug is rated to 125 volts so it doesn't burn out when the voltage drifts a little above 120 v. There are additional safety factors on top the 125 v rating as well.

A 125 volt plug is fine. Just make sure the plug can handle the wattage of the heater. Your heater is a 1500 w device, which is on the upper end of what you will find for a residential device and not all replacement plugs are rated the 1500 watts. Any 125 v 15 amp plug with a ground will work.

This is first listing on amazon. There are bajillion places to get them though.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550644370&sr=8-5&keywords=replacement+electrical+plug

> Is there a a way to discern the required wattage (right?) by looking at the power adapter?

You could likely get close. I happen to have a power adapter on my desk right now that says "INPUT: 120V AC 60Hz 18W". It will probably consume less than 18W unless I risk overloading it. To find a more accurate number, you can use an inexpensive Kill-a-Watt device.

I see that the runtime of UPSes does not appear to be consistent based on the power consumption. For example this AVRG750U has a runtime of 50 minutes under a load of 50 watts, but only 17 minutes under a load of 100 watts. This device doesn't list data for load below 50 watts, so the best we can discern from this is my device will run for "more than 50 minutes".

Here is a competitor's UPS. Its manufacturer claims it will run for 99 minutes under a 30W load. The runtime for these two models is similar, although the first one I linked can handle a greater load.

There are two types of UPSes most likely in your price range: standby and line interactive. Line interactive has slightly better performance, so choose this if you can afford it.

I've used both APC and CyberPower with success.

So in situations were utilities have underground breaks around here they use what's called a HiPot. It floods the conductor with high voltage so that arching occurs over the broken area, which can usually be heard or sometimes be seen via smoke. Though I'm sure a similar method could be used in your situation, I don't have any personal experience with it so I can't recommend anything specific. You may be able to use a neon bulb transformer to accomplish this effect, but again I'm not sure. If you do find a break you can use an underground cable splice kit to repair it as long as you have enough slack to work the wire. Best of luck to you.

I put one in my living room for the TV a few years ago. I'm pretty sure I put it in a standard box. Maybe more like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

They also sell outdoor ones: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

Edit: oops, looks like u/cryo_burned beat me to it.

I use this [tracer] (https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496176339&sr=8-3) but you have to use it with the breaker off. I also have a pen voltage tester that works to find a wire in the wall too.

I guess have you looked at your panel? Count the number of circuits and number of neutrals and see if they match up - if not, they must be sharing. Keep in mind that 240v devices don't necessarily use a neutral, but if they did the neutral would be larger than 12 or 14 gauge and easy to spot.

Let me explain more clearly.

1. Electrician has installed a 20 amp dedicated circuit being fed by 12/2.
   
   
2. Electrician has installed a dummy run 12/2 from an outlet next to the above.
   
   
3. I am planning on using the following inlet for #2 which will draw it's power from #1. This is rated 15amp MIDLITE 4642-W Single Gang Décor Recessed Power Inlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ey0IDbH7GWTDF
   
   Will I have an issue in the above situation?
   
   Additionally, if I was doing a similar situation like the above but with the only change being #2 above uses a 14/2. As in it is powered by a 20amp dedicated circuit but the power inlet is 15amp and the wire from the inlet is 14/2. Should I swap out the wire and use 12/2?

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/power-strips/surge-protectors/ul100bd-multi-outlet-power-unit-125v-15a-9-14l-5-outlets-15-cord

The above link is a 5 outlet strip with a circuit-breaker that is push-back-in to reset, but no switch.

I've worked with several supervisors who would refuse to have anything mission-critical on a power-strip that had a switch - either someone stepping on it under a desk, or someone setting something down on top of it could switch it "off" at an inopportune moment.

I've found the easiest to find are the 3 to4-ft long wiremold strips with outlets spaced every 4 to 6 inches, rack-mount strip that still have a switch but have it under a cover that requires unclipping before you can manipulate the switch, and the good old industrial supply places where you will pay 2 to 3 times what the hardware store will charge but find exactly what you desire as one of the 200 power-strip options.

There should be no issues. I was just looking into this myself and I found these guys at Amazon for a pretty good price:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I would put a GFCI in the wall where you plan to plug this in. Then, get a standard sized outlet, but one that has the two USB ports and is Tamper resistant. Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhD5Bb0TBC6NZ

Or you could go for the straight 4x USB. The call is up to you. Having a standard receptical means you can upgrade or switch as your needs change.

Edit, forgot the box. Get a metal, gangable box for use with NM/Romex. You can also get a metal, old work for use with NM/Romex and just take off (or even use) the old work clamps. Sorry I can't link it now. But you'll see why it will work. Just wrap the ground from your extension around the wire, then go to the receptical.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "one"

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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Something like this in your ceiling?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468333722&sr=1-13&keywords=Electrical+male+inlet

It'll work in a pinch but it is not technically correct; what you're describing requires a balun, it's a matching transformer to connect your unbalanced end to a balanced connection.

You should still use a shielded cable, the 'green' goes to the shield to prevent interference.

Is your impedance matched correctly? What is the actual microphone you're using? You may need a circuit which also matches impedance. Here's an example.

Okay looking into it some more, I think you’ll be fine daisy-chaining. The bridge plate on a 15A receptacle should be able to handle that.

In home wiring there can be tails wire-nutted in each junction box so one receptacle can be removed without breaking the circuit.

I’m not sure if there would be an issue using stranded wire in the outlet screw terminals. What I would make sure of is that your cord is anchored in some way, so pulling on the extension cord isn’t putting force directly on the screw terminals.

Again, if you search for power inlet receptacle like so , you can avoid that whole male cord issue.

All this assuming code is of concern to you. Personally, if it were my own home, I wouldn't have a problem with the always hot socket and a separate switch.

EDIT: Would not

However.. If you want to keep the pop switch, but also have the always on socket, and still be up to code.. You could replace the switch with switch/receptacle combination, where the switch controls the outlet, and the light socket is always on.

Try something like this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N7RS0NG&pd_rd_r=Z7S0FB64TPV36BEEEMW7&pd_rd_w=I88Fv&pd_rd_wg=fMZ8r&psc=1&refRID=Z7S0FB64TPV36BEEEMW7&dpID=51UOyUkeeqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


Or just look at old unused power blocks for other electronics to find one that is 12v and minimum 1.8 amp output, the amps could be higher and stilll work but has to b 12v

Here is the desktop version of your link

I always double check if the breaker is off with one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KILM8Q0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422014654&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31er3Euvx9L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I second Wago connectors, These are what i would use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=hr3Yf&pf_rd_r=ZYXJFJQHX01M7APC8JBR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_w=TPn4N&pf_rd_i=wago+connector&pd_rd_r=6ee3ce01-8e70-4bdb-9718-965ceb4fcdc1&ie=UTF8&qid=1541084967&sr=3

https://www.amazon.com/Drillware-Cordless-Drill-Safety-Shoulder/dp/B07YZPGMFJ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=drillware&qid=1574545107&sr=8-1

I’m looking for this one . I know about the frequency issue, but the converter says 50/60hz. Isn’t enough? Otherwise, crock pot has the same model but not programmable, I mean manual. This one

Replacement plug

This one is used for outlets but may work for you...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002THPOS?pc_redir=1410000624&robot_redir=1

What happens is that you have an exposed electrical shock/short/fire hazard. As an alternative you could wire a short male cable to your workbench, or even install a power inlet: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Straight-Flanged-Receptacle/dp/B003ATXIBG

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506451136&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+27w

This would get you very close, it's slightly under powered. Do you have the specs on what the adapter is powering?

This one would also work, but it could supply too much amperage if the device is shorting or having other electrical issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506451264&sr=1-1&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+3a

Edit: Either way, you could replace the end with the one from your adapter if they do not fit, assuming you know how to crimp or preferably solder and shrink tube.

Buy this (http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU) and test your outlets. You could also just use a voltmeter and make sure your voltages are in the 100-120 VAC range. Isolate the the problem by room/circuit. That should give you a starting point for determining the root cause.

Yes. Walk to the breaker box. Open it. Plug a light or radio into the plug in question so you can hear or see it while the breaker box is opening.

Turn off each small breaker than on again. (it's highly unlikely to be a big breaker). When the light/radio stops, you found the breaker that controls that plug.

Look at the breaker. The formula is Power = Amps Voltage. So if it's a 15 amp breaker, it's 15 120 = 1800 watts max. If it's a 20 amp breaker, it's 20 * 120 = 2400 watts max.

The washing machine will have a plate on the back of it near the plug that tells how much power it can draw max. Add that to the oil heater's power draw and you will find out if you can run both.

There is also a device you can buy, called a KillAWatt. Available here. https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

See, the power draw listed on the plate on the back of the machine is often far more power than it actually draws most of the time. With this device you can find out how much power the machine really takes.

Your oil radiator may not actually draw 1500 watts, especially if it is set to "low".

Normally, if you draw too much power, the breaker will trip and the power will turn off. A faulty breaker will not trip, though, and some breaker types tend to be faulty.

No that's not a tone generator, that's just a voltage detector. It's good for confirming a circuit is dead before touching bare wires and for making sure there's not a wire in a wall when you are about to drill a hole.

This is a tone generator:
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464230762&sr=8-2&keywords=tone+generator

The problem is almost certainly not behind a wall, unless someone put a junction under drywall which is not supposed to be done, or someone put a nail through one of your cables and severed a wire. But that stuff is rare compared to other kinds of problems that don't require ripping out walls.

For the breaker that does nothing, check to see if there's even a wire in it. I would leave it turned off if it was off when you found it, otherwise. You never know if someone left a live wire hanging somewhere stupid.