(Part 2) Top products from r/electrical

Hey so I'm popping up again to say this project is about to be underway. This issue wasn't the dryer as the breaker tripped even when nothing was plugged in and that outlet is the only thing on that circuit so my assumption is it's damaged along the way somewhere and shorting out.

My box is a Murray 120/240(I want to say it's older probably done around 1990 maybe a bit earlier as the house belonged to my grandparents and hasn't really been touched since they passed) also worth noting I'm in US just to be safe of any mixup

So my layout is the box is in my living room and needs to run about 8 feet down to the end of the room then go around a corner about four more feet and that's pretty much it. Thankfully the dryer is right on the other side of the wall so I'm assuming running this will be easy outside of not being too sure how to go around that corner as I read it's not favored to run the wire through the beams that need to handle more weight like those.(the current wire is ran under the house so I'm thinking I'll just follow the same path and go under just before that corner and pop back up. This will be my first time doing this so my plan is to get a 25ft 10-3 like you mentioned

(https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-63948421-SIMpull-residential-electrical/dp/B000BP7X8G/ref=pd_sbs_60_3/144-1273659-8829424?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BP7X8G&pd_rd_r=7b013138-7aac-11e9-b2d1-7fb6059bc3dc&pd_rd_w=fxy3G&pd_rd_wg=7CBlc&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=0944KZAPC75SA49XQFHM&psc=1&refRID=0944KZAPC75SA49XQFHM) - This one

Then just staple it along the way, crawl under for that corner, pop it back up, and there we go. Does everything sound good there? My concerns are just pretty much making sure I have the right wire picked out, making sure I run it right and that it going under the house for that corner is okay, and making sure I know where to connect the neutral on the box(currently the neutrals and grounds are on the same bus bar together which I think is okay because it's the main panel.)

Any things I missed/might want to check beforehand? I'm planning to go ahead and wrap it all up this week and to be honest I'm looking forward to the project

Looks like you need to kill the circuit, remove the switch and outlet, and figure out what went wrong with the previous method of attachment. Could be as easy as putting in some new screws through the box and into the wall, or bolts if it's actually anchored, but I can't see an existing attachment method that failed so it's hard to say. Anyway, I haven't had much luck with that style of gasket so I'd say you should go with some of this. It's the best caulk I've found so far for exterior sealing and I'd bet it will work much better than that gasket against the wall. Just run a bead around the box and finish it with a plastic spoon once you've resecured the box. Best of luck!

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/power-strips/surge-protectors/ul100bd-multi-outlet-power-unit-125v-15a-9-14l-5-outlets-15-cord

The above link is a 5 outlet strip with a circuit-breaker that is push-back-in to reset, but no switch.

I've worked with several supervisors who would refuse to have anything mission-critical on a power-strip that had a switch - either someone stepping on it under a desk, or someone setting something down on top of it could switch it "off" at an inopportune moment.

I've found the easiest to find are the 3 to4-ft long wiremold strips with outlets spaced every 4 to 6 inches, rack-mount strip that still have a switch but have it under a cover that requires unclipping before you can manipulate the switch, and the good old industrial supply places where you will pay 2 to 3 times what the hardware store will charge but find exactly what you desire as one of the 200 power-strip options.

Thanks so much for all the help. What do you mean when you say "use as a runner"?


This is the right stuff, correct? Southwire 28827421 14/2WG NMB Wire 25-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQKC10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-prBybTGBYYBK

Not necessarily an extension cord, but would liberators help?

I hesitate to tell you, not because I'm being a troll, but because if you don't already know, you have some studying to do in order to do this project safely.

Here's a good start: https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Simplified-Based-National-Electrical/dp/097929455X/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAN2K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_1fmEzb3GPBD9W

I have used this before with a fine brush

It'll work in a pinch but it is not technically correct; what you're describing requires a balun, it's a matching transformer to connect your unbalanced end to a balanced connection.

You should still use a shielded cable, the 'green' goes to the shield to prevent interference.

Is your impedance matched correctly? What is the actual microphone you're using? You may need a circuit which also matches impedance. Here's an example.

All this assuming code is of concern to you. Personally, if it were my own home, I wouldn't have a problem with the always hot socket and a separate switch.

EDIT: Would not

However.. If you want to keep the pop switch, but also have the always on socket, and still be up to code.. You could replace the switch with switch/receptacle combination, where the switch controls the outlet, and the light socket is always on.

2 more possibilities.
2 Side Entry
Six-Outlet Tap

You don't need that one for a small two wire cord. this one is plenty, and what I use if I have to replace the plug on a two wire AC line cord. I use the 3 prong version for smaller three wire cords.

The standard connector is this
http://www.amazon.com/LeapFrog-LeapPad2-LeapPad1-LeapsterGS-Leapster2/dp/B000FGCY8K

but I'm wondering if this monoprice generic will work the same way?

I am also considering: SouthWire 28827423 14/2WG NMB Wire 100-Foot

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-1-2-3-Home-Depot/dp/069621184X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501101558&sr=8-1&keywords=wiring+1-2-3

This is a decent start.

This one is used for outlets but may work for you...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002THPOS?pc_redir=1410000624&robot_redir=1

You can get a copy of Machinery's Handbook. It's got everything.

I shop at BoltDepot.com, and they have tons of reference material.