(Part 2) Top products from r/fixit

To seal the outer, non-moving seams, use a window caulking like:
Dap 18275 DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Elastomeric Interior and Exterior Sealant, 10.1 oz, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJI6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KqiWDb6F2FA9M

To seasonally seal the seams along the track, use something like:
Dap 18354 Seal 'N Peel Removable Caulk, 10.1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QFZS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_JniWDbG8RNJ5K

Just read the directions and clean surfaces well before applying to ensure you don't waste time and have to re-do it shortly.

So it sounds like the outlets weren't grounded as someone already stated. The surge protector had nowhere to shunt any excess current to so it just went to your equipment. It's strange that your mother board was blown and not your power supply.

Nevertheless, I wouldn't plug a computer into any outlet unless I new it was grounded. If you do run an extension cord, there's three things to remember. Firstly, make sure the extension cord is a grounded one. Secondly, make sure the outlet is properly wired. Thirdly, make sure to make the cord as short as possible and don't cover it up with anything (rugs, carpet, etc.)

How do you check an outlet? The simplest method is to use a circuit tester. It's pretty cut and dry and it's a non-invasive way to make sure every wire is in the right place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451367300&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65

I'm assuming your using this type of stripper which has a very pronounced "click".

Klein makes a slightly quieter one.
Slightly quieter

However, since you're in a manufacturing position, this might be something you need to clear with supervisors. Different types of strippers cause different effects on the wire insulation and this may not be in line with manufacturing procedures. I worked with SIS type wire and that insulation reacted differently than type THHN to the strippers I used. Don't pose it as a physical issue with your wrist; I wouldn't them to use it as a reason to move or eliminate you from your position.

Aside from that, strengthening with exercises will definitely help.

Studio Marmo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/039373028X

https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Marble-Architecture-Studio-Marmo/dp/0393730743

Here's the stone guidelines. I found the OG book in the Strand on vacation. My friends gave it to me as a bday gift because I was so obsessed and didn't realize.

Mine has the original CD which is why my eye is twitching right now.

One thing I need to mention with out trying to insult you, but lamps are very easy to work with. You can use anything your creative minds wants you to make as a lamp. You can use a beer bottle, a shoe, a cremated cat, anything you want...the main thing is just find a way to thread the cable and find a way to hold the bulb socket.

http://www.amazon.com/Angelo-Brothers-Make-Lamp-Kit/dp/B00002NADS

Your imagination is the limit only

https://www.google.com/search?q=beautiful+lamp+creations.&client=opera&hs=NrF&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiA4rjuicTKAhUJuYMKHZGDD5wQ_AUIBygB&biw=1140&bih=821&dpr=1.13#tbm=isch&q=beautiful+lamp+creations

the technical side of things is very elementary.

A good marine adhesive might do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6CA

But the other poster is probably correct, replacing the seal is going to be the best long term fix.

This stuff is great https://www.amazon.com/Align-Rite-Screwgrab/dp/B0000DD2JZ

It looks to me like it may be an X-10 Wall Switch. It's for remote control of switches and outlets. Take the switch plate off and see what the faceplate says.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21KXaH98xeL.jpg

If it looks like this then that is what you have. You will need the control unit to operate it, otherwise replace it with a regular switch.

The second later looks like iron on glue/ tape. Try an iron at cotton level for a second, see if it reactivates the glue.

If not, fabric glue would be the way. Just make sure you test it in a less visible area first.

Aleene's Fabric Fusion Permanent Fabric Adhesive 4oz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00178QSE6/

That top cap piece usually can be twisted off. There is a rubber seal on the bottom of it. There's a chance it has wore out meaning it's time to replace. There are plenty of YouTube guides. Basically, the flush valve is usually sold as one piece. You might be able to find replacement parts, but it may be more worth your time to do the whole thing. Here's one I bought not too long ago. Fluidmaster 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Tank Fill Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002ND6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UEILyb902HXY4

That square block cartridge on the bottom that has a handle. Grab the handle and pull while holding the panel so you don't rip it off the wall. It hasn't been removed in many years so it's likely to be a little tough to pull out. The use of gloves and safety glasses are recommended for doing this. It removes the main 60A buss fuses that sit in that cartridge.

The fuses you'll be removing look like this http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-NON-60-Non-Current/dp/B00004WA38

They're all one time fuses. If any are blown they'll need to be replaced. The big box stores still sell these I think.

I’ve only seen them for the rectangular ones.

My vent is more of a square (9” x 8.5”) so those won’t work. But thank you for the suggestion! I’ll probably end up covering the vent with a mixture of foam and moving blanket to muffle the sound of my roommate.

I can't figure out what problem you see where you think glue would be needed. They sell replacement sockets for a reason. Nothing more than basic and common mounting elements are used with this socket and fixture. The nut holding the copper ground wire to the fixture is also what holds the socket in place. Take off old socket and head to closest hardware store get new matching socket. Reuse the hollow threaded rod for the new socket.

The new socket may or may not already have wires. It may be easier in the OP's case to use one with wire leads already attached like this rather than this without wire leads

Once you've checked to see that the gas to the appliance is on...

Have you tried working the oven or broiler (if it has one)?

It sounds like it could be a gas valve issue with the stove/oven itself.

Further: You may want to consider testing the outlet that it's plugged in to with a receptacle tester. If the polarity is reversed on the outlet, the gas valve may not open, which is a safety feature. Sounds weird, but I've run in to that issue a handful of times.

Edit: Added further info.

This does a great job at detecting wiring faults and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/

I don't see why this brown caulk wouldn't work.

Those fans are cheap junk. The whole unit costs $15. They are way too loud out of the box and barely move any air. https://www.amazon.com/Broan-688-Ceiling-Plastic-Grille/dp/B00004TTZZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478483819&sr=8-1&keywords=broan+50+cfm

This one?
Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0A0Hzb0VTH9B9

kit

Upvote for having a $5 tester. Everyone should have one.

I, personally, would use a fabric glue. That's just an example, I have no idea how well that particular brand works.

Average cost? Around tree fiddy.

Seriously. Just get a little putty in a close color, you'll never notice.

Just buy a new one. Unless you already have an assortment of sandpapers in varying grits and some paint you can use, you won't save much if any and will have a bunch of work to do.

I've got a wood one, kind of like this: http://www.amazon.com/Household-Essentials-Folding-Clothes-assembled/dp/B0002E35WO/ref=pd_sbs_hg_3

It's a little wobbly but it won't rust :)

Just some questions for you and /u/brokenleko

1. I've never used gaffer tape, is this okay? Or maybe this?. Or anything on amazon.ca that you guys would recommend?
   
   
2. Is there any harm to just cutting it off? I'm unlikely to land on it when running