(Part 3) Top products from r/fixit

Yep, just start with the basics before you get more complicated. Make sure you have power, then follow power along until it's not there, and figure out why. If power is going everywhere and the HU still won't work, it's busted or has a blown fuse.

A test light is cheap and easy to use, just make sure it'll work with 12 volt DC. A multimeter is much more versatile and not too expensive. I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066ZZO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works OK for a cheap thing. For basic testing, at least.

To seal the outer, non-moving seams, use a window caulking like:
Dap 18275 DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Elastomeric Interior and Exterior Sealant, 10.1 oz, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJI6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KqiWDb6F2FA9M

To seasonally seal the seams along the track, use something like:
Dap 18354 Seal 'N Peel Removable Caulk, 10.1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QFZS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_JniWDbG8RNJ5K

Just read the directions and clean surfaces well before applying to ensure you don't waste time and have to re-do it shortly.

I'm assuming your using this type of stripper which has a very pronounced "click".

Klein makes a slightly quieter one.
Slightly quieter

However, since you're in a manufacturing position, this might be something you need to clear with supervisors. Different types of strippers cause different effects on the wire insulation and this may not be in line with manufacturing procedures. I worked with SIS type wire and that insulation reacted differently than type THHN to the strippers I used. Don't pose it as a physical issue with your wrist; I wouldn't them to use it as a reason to move or eliminate you from your position.

Aside from that, strengthening with exercises will definitely help.

A good marine adhesive might do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6CA

But the other poster is probably correct, replacing the seal is going to be the best long term fix.

Fair warning, adding acoustic foam won't help much with blocking sound. Its main purpose is to reduce reverb within a room. What you'd really need is to replace that thin glass door with a solid one like wood, steel, or fiberglass, however these are very far out of your price range. I suppose any amount of insulation would help in your case. You'll just have to experiment on your own. I found foam board insulation can be pretty cheap.

For soundproofing around your door, at the bottom get a door sweep, on the door frame install foam tape. Any gaps of air allow sound to easily pass through, you want to eliminate that. Measure the size of the gap before you buy the wrong size.

This stuff is great https://www.amazon.com/Align-Rite-Screwgrab/dp/B0000DD2JZ

Agreed, especially if there's more than one component giving you trouble. It's pretty simple to just replace them all for about $20 per toilet.

It looks to me like it may be an X-10 Wall Switch. It's for remote control of switches and outlets. Take the switch plate off and see what the faceplate says.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21KXaH98xeL.jpg

If it looks like this then that is what you have. You will need the control unit to operate it, otherwise replace it with a regular switch.

That top cap piece usually can be twisted off. There is a rubber seal on the bottom of it. There's a chance it has wore out meaning it's time to replace. There are plenty of YouTube guides. Basically, the flush valve is usually sold as one piece. You might be able to find replacement parts, but it may be more worth your time to do the whole thing. Here's one I bought not too long ago. Fluidmaster 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Tank Fill Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002ND6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UEILyb902HXY4

That square block cartridge on the bottom that has a handle. Grab the handle and pull while holding the panel so you don't rip it off the wall. It hasn't been removed in many years so it's likely to be a little tough to pull out. The use of gloves and safety glasses are recommended for doing this. It removes the main 60A buss fuses that sit in that cartridge.

The fuses you'll be removing look like this http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-NON-60-Non-Current/dp/B00004WA38

They're all one time fuses. If any are blown they'll need to be replaced. The big box stores still sell these I think.

I’ve only seen them for the rectangular ones.

My vent is more of a square (9” x 8.5”) so those won’t work. But thank you for the suggestion! I’ll probably end up covering the vent with a mixture of foam and moving blanket to muffle the sound of my roommate.

If fiddling with the hinges doesn't work, try a block plane or rasp.

Here's one at Home Depot for $11

Here's a smaller one for $6 on Amazon, but I think they have them in store at Home Depot too

I don't see why this brown caulk wouldn't work.

Try one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-265DCCSEN-Dual-Function-Security/dp/B0002YUX8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505496970&sr=8-2&keywords=door+jam

Seal up the odd-shaped gaps with some weatherstripping foam.

Those fans are cheap junk. The whole unit costs $15. They are way too loud out of the box and barely move any air. https://www.amazon.com/Broan-688-Ceiling-Plastic-Grille/dp/B00004TTZZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478483819&sr=8-1&keywords=broan+50+cfm

This one?
Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0A0Hzb0VTH9B9

Average cost? Around tree fiddy.

Seriously. Just get a little putty in a close color, you'll never notice.

Just some questions for you and /u/brokenleko

1. I've never used gaffer tape, is this okay? Or maybe this?. Or anything on amazon.ca that you guys would recommend?
   
   
2. Is there any harm to just cutting it off? I'm unlikely to land on it when running