Top products from r/fordfusion

>The factory headlights even with an LED upgrade isn't going to cut it during the winter time.

I agree, LED "upgrades" will only help you see worse in the wintertime. Unfortunately, propaganda and misinformation and fake news surrounding LED kits for vehicles have reached North Korean levels.

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What I would do if I were driving a '15 Fusion in Alaska at night:

Stick with halogens bulb and keep the old, factory halogens as spares in your car.

This is how much high-performance halogen bulbs can help you. They can help you see 60+ feet further compared to factory bulbs. These are the best H11 bulbs for your low-beam headlamps. Your Ford has H11 bulbs in the low-beams as stock equipment.

Alternatively, you can switch from H11s in your low-beam to H9 bulbs. H9 bulbs draw ~10 more watts than H11 bulbs, but put out 75% more lumens. The slight bump in power draw might actually be beneficial in helping you melt the ice on your lamps! Here are the best H9 bulbs. You will have to trim a little metal and plastic tab on the bulb to match the dimensions of the tabs on your H11 bulbs, but it's not extremely difficult.

Either the high-performance H11s or the H9 bulb swap will enable you to see far better than your stock setup with its long-life, low-output H11 bulbs, or any sort of LED conversion.

And before I get a light bar, I would consider upgrading your high-beams and perhaps see if that'll cut it. Your stock high-beams use H7 bulbs, which only put out 1600 lumens. 2100 lumen H7 bulbs are coming out soon. So, if you ran H9's in the low-beams and the special H7's in the high-beam, you'd be looking at 8400 raw lumens from your Ford without even touching a light bar or LED bulbs. And the price of these 4 halogen bulbs should be below $50. Even without the special H7s, you're looking at 7500 raw lumens with just H9s.

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If you do need a light bar, I would get a good light bar such as this one. No, this is definitely not the cheapest light bar out there, but it's definitely reliable, as it's made by an American firm (JW Speaker).

http://car-part.com/

You just have to find a junkyard that's willing to sell you one.

Basically you need the following:

APIM
GPS Antenna (Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6NL5G6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
USB Port Replacement (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC84V8D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The USB Port isn't REALLY necessary for Android Auto, but it's cheap and easy to change, the 2016 doesn't actually need an adapter like the older fusions, it's just drop in and the new ports also enable CarPlay. if you decide to keep the old one, it will throw an error on the screen every time it starts but will still work with Android Auto.

Pry Tools - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7XNQHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A 7mm Socket Wrench

A ForScan Compatible ODB2 Programmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHNX57D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And you'll have to reprogram the Car Computer. You can google that and there's a dude out there that will give you a ready made programming file for $50.

The APIM you can find by looking for a model number xxxx-14G370-xxx

There are also 14G371 Modules, and I believe those are the Navigation enabled ones but I'm not 100% sure. I don't particularly care since I just use Android Auto anyway and that just uses the Phone GPS.

Once you have all the parts it's honestly not too hard of a swap. I was scared of doing it but I think it was definetly worth it. the Sync 3 system is SOOOO much better than Sync 2 just because the way it interacts with the phone is excellent.

Also one thing I DID notice is that while all Fusions from 2017 onwards have Sync 3, it looks like the 2017 APIMs (and 2018 too maybe) are stuck on Sync 3 version 3.0 where as the newest one is 3.2 or so. It doesn't matter for Android auto strictly since that's updated on the Phone, but if Ford does decide to add features, we likely won't get them. Not without an APIM swap, and there are some reported issues with swapping newer APIMs.

03-08 will fit, I think the 09+ uses a different spring. The part number for the springs I have is SKM72-AUB00, but the SKM70-AUB00 will also work if you want a slightly softer spring rate.

HERE are the exact springs I have. Keep in mind that, like I said earlier, if you want your front end dropped like mine, you'll have to shave the stopping blocks off the front struts so they sit lower, which isn't exactly for the faint of heart. Without modification, it'll look like the front end is sitting higher than the rear thanks to the difference in wheel arch height.

Forscan is a software you install on a laptop/phone, and use an OBD adapter to change settings within the Ford software.

It sounds crazy, but it’s insane how easy it is. You can change literally any setting on the car, as well as add features. I added the digital speedometer, and tire pressure monitor to screen in the middle of the gauges.

Let me know if you need help with it. Forscan is free, and OBD adapters are like $20-30 on Amazon. I would recommend the OHP ELM27 adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/

Yeah, I'm really happy with it! And this is the one I bought. It arrived like 4 days after ordering:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073BXJRD7/

You can take paint transfer off your car with some polish and an applicator pad:

Polish: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G19220-Ultimate-Polish-fluid_ounces/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=meguiars%2Bpolish&qid=1556888366&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Applicator: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B001GJ9JV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TF14W8WDIISK&keywords=polish%2Bapplicator&qid=1556888486&s=gateway&sprefix=polish%2Bappl%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3&th=1

I've used this method before, works great. Just remember to clean the area before and after, and consider adding some wax after.

Sure.

So I used this as a guide.

The petRockBlog and /r/raspberry_pi were also helpful resources.

I bought a Raspberry Pi B+ Complete Starter Kit, 2 Buffalo Classic USB Gamepads, and Zune A/V Output Cable. The A/V cable has to be compatible with a Zune, some A/V cables like this won't work. I learned that the hard way. I also bought a Mini Wireless Keyboard. A keyboard is required for the setup (any keyboard will do). I got the mini keyboard so I could have a keyboard in my car to troubleshoot potential issues while on the road. It's optional, but I recommend it.

Then I just followed the guide (mentioned above) to set up the RasPi with RetroPi, then plugged in all the cables, and bam I had a retro game console in my car.

NOTE: Instead of the 2.5A Power Supply included in the kit I used a standard micro usb cable plugged into a USB slot in the center console to power the RasPi.

This is the one I bought, is recommended by a modding guru at a Fusion forum (2GFusions), and works great: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know if you can get it from Amazon Germany though. I thought the vendor, OHP, was based in England but not 100% sure.... Looks like they're from Estonia after all.

I bought this reader in 2013. It lists "Canada - All Vehicles 1998 & Newer" as compatible. It also says "For Android & Windows ONLY!"

On my phone I use the paid version of the Torque app. Try the linked (free) version first.

Works great for my 2010 Fusion here in the US.

Edit: Looks like they have an iOS reader now as well. No idea what app to use though.

BAFX's Country Compliance List

I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BXJRD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x1M3AbMK3J8QS

I had to trim off the two large tabs at the top. Not sure if that’s a Titanium thing or not but it fit perfectly once I did that.

I have used this on my 07 SE 2.3L and my 17 SE 2.5L that gave me all sorts of useful info using ODB Car Doctor Free.

Links to al the stuff I purchased listed below:

Headlights:
http://www.wpdrl.com/Showprot.aspx?id=658

Tail lights:
RCP - RFT01 - Aftermarket Upgrade LED Taillight for 2012-2015 Ford Fusion, Clear Red Rear lamps Lens with Loop Ring Driving light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FU39X9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CFjoDbY02WJRE

Spoiler:
Painted Factory Style Spoiler fits the Ford Fusion 525 G1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0104J33ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HGjoDb26XJDHF

Antenna:
CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna Replacement for the Ford Fusion 2005-2019 | 4 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073X74X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0GjoDbK3DM47X

Grill:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162601654749

Sway bar stiffener:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-ford-fusion-rear-swaybar-13-14

K&N intake:
K&N 69-3533TTK Air Intake System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FU9B9HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WJjoDbXCE1G1Z

I have husky liners for my 2013 hybrid. They are much much better than the Ford options, though almost anything would be since the Ford options, even the premium ones, don't cover where my feet rest and wouldn't catch much / any snow.

http://www.amazon.com/Husky-Liners-99751-WeatherBeater-Black/dp/B00ABW6DO4

I paid $116 but can't find the email receipt, it was something like a to z truck parts.

I used something similar and it didn't adhere well due to the texture of the dash, mine even had a semi-sticky substance in addition to the suction cup. I opted to go for a vent based mount like This And it seems to work out a lot better.

Here's what they look like. This was last weekend. I swapped them with some McGards I got on Amazon for $57.
http://imgur.com/eUrrT1B
http://imgur.com/Xao6OcP.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COS0GU

I bought this grill:
Ford Fusion 2013-2016 Gloss Black Front Bumper Honeycomb Mesh Grill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BXJRD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_elyyCbZMKM896

I'm not mechanically inclined at all and it took me two hours. I followed a YouTube that walked me through it. Overall it was very easy. If I did it again it would likely take me 45 min - 1 hr now that I know the general steps.

There's a couple lugs inside the wheel well you have to remove that are a huge pain in the ass to remove while the tire is on. The video I followed recommended removing the tire to get to the nut but I managed to do it without doing that.

It was completely worth it, I think the car looks much sexier now.

Yeah, you obviously need to replace the mount base assembly. I would keep it taped up to seal out moisture until that day, though.

However, once you do that, I would get the low-profile antenna. Here's what I got and it's great - no loss of signal that I can tell :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073X74X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Allen Deluxe 2-Bike Trunk Mount Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ELUXFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ujjqDb4KTDK9Q

Is what I have for my ‘17 hybrid. Check their website to confirm yours should fit tho.

If it's the touchless kind then yeah. I used this 3M adhesive to install them and it's insanely strong.

The car washes with big brushes would probably scratch the hell out of them just like they do to your paint. You really shouldn't use those things.

This is very common on lots of newer fords. When they swell the only socket that works is a 19.5mm. I recommend replacing them asap just so you don’t get stuck someone if you happen to get a flat tire. I replaced my lug nuts at 8k miles to get black ones for my black wheels so I personally have not had an issue but I have seen it multiple times at the shop I work at.

I used mcgard lug nuts which are a one piece design and are made very well and you should not have to replace them again.

Here are chrome ones you can pick black as well.

Hmm, I'm really surprised that your fusion doesn't have auto lights. I thought they were standard on all the '10-12 models. Modules that add this functionality exist

I used these based on recommendations from this sub:


Mcgard 64012

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-Liners-Fusion-Energi-Titanium/dp/B00ABW6DO4/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=Fusion%7C2816&Year=2014%7C2014&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive

These?

Stubby Antennae for $25

Stubby

I just used a wire crimp tool similar to this and some wire butt connectors, like these.

Here's the set I used and I just ordered another set for her car. They are about $5 cheaper than when I bought them 6 months ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P280PO

these

People are gonna warn you about LEDs in projector housings (or maybe I'm getting that confused with HIDs) but I think someone on here posted about switching to these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHDYTGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tukqDb4JFJZNH

Magnetic Vent Mount hands down.

I used to use the ones that clip to the sides of the phone but after I discovered the magnetic mount, there's nothing better. You can't beat the ease of the magnetic mount.

That being said, for your situation get the ones that protrude that you can adjust. i.e. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AMGFY5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1485096433&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magnetic+vent+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=415elWSl9TL&ref=plSrch

My bad. It was Amazon. Ford Fusion 2013-2016 Gloss Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BXJRD7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Nether out of the 5 LED headlights I’ve experimented with have an error code. The “BeamTech LED’s” are literally the cheapest durable LED bulbs you can buy which gives a decent beam pattern👇

BEAMTECH H11 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh H8 H9 CSP Chips Conversion Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHDYTGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fg9VBbZK6ZAG6



The “Hikari LED’s” are premium LED bulbs with a premium price that are bright as hell with a perfect beam pattern👇

HIKARI Ultra LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit -H11 (H8,H9),Philips Lumileds 12000lm 6K Cool White,2 Yr Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BT6M6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nm9VBbP60B2VP