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I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

I'm in a similar boat to OP. A lot of people talk about the Whoop, but there are a lot of options at the cheap end of the spectrum. Is the Whoop something the community agreed on as the best option?

I feel like I'd like to buy something a little more substantial, because I know myself and that I'll move on in a month or two. So while I'm not going to dive in properly (upgrading on a per-component basis and spending $300+), I would perhaps like a more capable first (and only) quad. Does that make sense?

Other options I've found:

Blade Inductrix, $150, FatShark 101, $200, Hubsan Storm, $130, Bolt Drone, $160

Can anyone comment on these? Is my assumption that a $150-$200 fpv quad will give me a better experience than a Whoop correct?

Edit: I see now that Whoop is a size class, which makes a lot of sense!

I second the tiny whoop suggestion. People are actually racing whoops. Let me convince you, watch this video

Good, now that you're convince. Get this instead - Blade Inductrix FPV. Yes it's more expensive but it will pay for itself in the long run. First off it's a better product. Second as I mentioned it's an actual format that people are currently racing. I bet if you look around within an hour of you you can probably find others who are racing tiny whoops.

Third, what's going to happen is you're going to love it so much that you want a little more. First you'll upgrade the motors. Then you'll want a better flight controller. You can't upgrade the hubsan the same way.

Good luck!

Considering these kids likely do not have multirotor experience, much less FPV experience, I'd recommend the FPV version of the Hubsan X4. For people interested in getting into quadcopters, its a good idea to start small because lighter quads are more crash resistant. Its not a question of if you will crash, but when. I learned how to fly with a bare-bones Hubsan X4. The FPV version (H107D) includes a screen on the transmitter so you can fly FPV or line of sight comfortably, and switch between the two flying styles quickly and easily. The cost is lower than you'll find for any 250mm+ DIY setup. These can fly inside or outside, so even on a rainy day you can still have fun.

A quick google search brings up prices ranging from $119-199, median cost about $145.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-FPV-Mini-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K

Once you and the kids get better at controlling the quads and want a more capable setup, I would look into the DIY 250mm kits/builds other posters have suggested. Its a lot of cash to drop to build nice 250 quads if your pilots have no experience.

BONUS TABLE

All of the above is assuming you have everything required for building your quad if not below is a table with everything i think is necessary for building a quad. All these links will be from amazon

Part Type | Part Name | Quantity | Total Cost | Reason | Link
---------|---------|----------|----------|---------|----------|
Soldering Station | Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station | 1 | $100 | When it comes to working with quads and electronics you really don't want to skimp on the thing that's putting it together. A good soldering station can change your entire experience when it comes to building quads. For this reason we go with a Hakko once bought you will not need anything else later on. | http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237822&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+station
Hot Glue Gun | CCbetter® Mini Hot Glue Gun | 1 | $15 | You will use this more than you think, everything from securing your camera, antennas, etc to adding extra insulation to your components to ensure nothing falls off or gets ripped off. | http://www.amazon.com/CCbetter%C2%AE-Temperature-Melting-Flexible-Projects/dp/B01178RVI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237957&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+glue+gun
Velcro | VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back | 1 | $11 | Sometimes you need things to only stick for a bit then take it off. Velcro is pretty much self explanatory keep your vtx in place among other things | http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006RSWT/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238198&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=stick+yvelcro
Zip Ties | Heavy Duty Black Cable Ties | 1 | $11 | The corner stone of fpv IMO. These are keeping more quads flying than anything else. | http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Black-Cable-Ties-120lbs/dp/B003Y61A10/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r7oTe3IpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1G5GJ28Z3M8JBJDW67RV
Solder | Miniatronics Corp 1064004 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 4oz | 1 | $12 | You are always going to need solder and this as the flux mixed in meaning it will be a very easy to use solder. | http://www.amazon.com/Miniatronics-Corp-1064004-Rosin-Solder/dp/B0006O933K/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238393&sr=1-7&keywords=solder&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Velcro Straps | Reusable Dubbex Black Velcro Cable Ties | 1 | $13 | Can be used for pretty much anything like batterystrap, hold wires down etc. | http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AW0BDNK?psc=1
Voltmeter | Blackcell DC 3.2-30V LED 0.56inch Panel Meter Digital Voltmeter | 1 | $7 | Eventually something is going to go wrong and you are going to have to ensure that your voltages are correct. You are going to need this to verify volt outputs and to figure out what they are when there is no documentation for what you are looking at | http://www.amazon.com/Blackcell-3-2-30V-0-56inch-Voltmeter-Two-wire/dp/B00ZZIXT8W/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238663&sr=1-6&keywords=voltmeter&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Desolder Tool | LyonsBlue Desoldering Vacuum Pump | 1 | $9 | Very useful for cleaning up to much solder or removing solder from contact pads to redo. Simply heat up the solder and suck it out. | http://www.amazon.com/LyonsBlue-Desoldering-Vacuum-Solder-Removal/dp/B003FHYL7I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238959&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder
TOTAL | FOR | ALL | $178 | |

Since there is very little consumer interest in a product like this, nearly all of the available products are geared towards the professional video market, and are super expensive.

The simplest way to do it as a consumer would be to feed the video into a PC and use software to stack it up. For example, this video capture interface is around $35:

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-VC500-Touch-Capture-Device/dp/B000VM60I8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449258258&sr=1-2&keywords=video+capture+card

And you might be able to use something like the iSpy open source security camera software to view the feeds live.

https://www.ispyconnect.com/

The iffy part here is that I'm not 100% sure how many of those capture devices you can run at the same time, and whether they will be compatible with iSpy.

Here's the tape I was referring to. It's pretty good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_p2pKybHH6A56G

As I mentioned, heat shrink looks better but this stuff is excellent for when you can't get heat shrink over a component.

Yeah, so I used the parts from OP's post but the enclosure is designed around these external parts. I have my model on my desktop, which I've yet to unpack (all still in boxes) since I just moved to another State, so if you are interested, I'll post it for you tomorrow or the day after. If interested, here's more pics of my build.


external parts list:

momentary push buttons

LCD screen

rocker switches

Awesome, thank you for the recommendations (there goes the money I partitioned for dominators, ha)!

I ordered:

FrSky Taranis X9D plus

D4R-II

Spare motors + ESC

X-treme tape

You’d be much better off with this type of battery which is safer to charge and maintain than a Lipo [NiMH battery pack](FrSky 2000mAh 7.2V NiMH AA Battery Pack for Taranis Q X7 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073KPW46P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JklyCb9WBXGGN) and a compatible charger such as [this](Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for NiMH / NiCd Battery pack 7.2V - 12V with charging current Selection/Temperature Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVUAVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lllyCbCPZP70W)

Currently flying with Goldbat 4S from amazon and they seem to be doing well. Using Racedayquads brand for 2s and 3s packs for my tiny whoop though.

Also this is the charger I have, I use it to charge everything from my 1s tiny whoop batteries and up. It is super easy to use and comes with a power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connectors/dp/B00466PKE0

I recommend picking up a parallel charging board but you can always do 1 at a time charging if you don't get one.

this is the one I have https://www.racedayquads.com/products/power-genius-2-in-1-parallel-charging-board-2-6s-xt30-xt60?variant=19431389200497

Electronics kits is the way to go. Buy something recenable cheap and try to make it work. Try not to shake on your hands...

https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-FM-88K-FM-Radio-Kit/dp/B004YHZE0G/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1469015634&sr=1-3&keywords=build+electronics

Also buy these, that will rescue you when you use too much solder...

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-5-Feet-2_0mm-1_5m-Desoldering-Braid-Solder-Remover-Wick-Cable-Wire-CP-2015-p-49770.html

Wash your hands, and dont worry too much about the fumes. It is a problem if you solder every single day, but you will be soldering for a short time, every month only.

Also one of these will help you, not burning your fingers.

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/content/98947/zd-10f-0.jpg

Looks like a JST SH plug. Something like this (depending on how many pins you have) might work: https://www.amazon.com/HOBBYMATE-silicon-quadcopter-transmitter-controller/dp/B07SYLHPF5

Regarding charging multiple lipos using your charger:

You could pick something like this up: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperion-Parallel-Charge-Adapter-Lipoly/dp/B005I5GLQ4

This would charge multiple batteries at once. Just make sure that the amperage is set correctly for how many batteries you're charging. I assume the batteries are 150mah with a 3C charge rating, so if you're charging only one battery, then .45amps. 2 batteries would be .9 amps, etc.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking regarding the USB charger port. If you're referring to the microUSB port on the B6AC, then I believe that's for data transfer only and would not attempt to charge the lipos using the USB charger. Any regular USB port or USB charger that's meant to charge USB devices should work to charge the lipos, though.

Yes, we use these...

https://youtu.be/lgDxnJv2mFI


.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007YKMSZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457935062&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=orange+soccer+goal&dpPl=1&dpID=41rJO8tT7pL&ref=plSrch

I recommend a left 90degree angled usb cable so it doesn't stick out really far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NNTV6O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DFDTU9G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

This cable works for me too.

On my dominator v2's there is a micro hdmi port and I can plug them into my hdmi port on the laptop. I use a http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Speed-Micro-cable-Ethernet/dp/B0060AU5MW

just get this https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467263305&sr=8-1&keywords=weller

Note, that copter will not allow FPV. The camera on board is only for recording to the SD card. The version of that same drone which actually has a vtx is this one

I have used this cable with a DX6, and FPV Freerider. So I bet you can make it work with your DX6i and Liftoff. The only thing I had to do weird with it and FPV Freerider is I had to set the DX6 up as Heli not Acro to get the throttle to work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DFDTU9G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

The Blade nQX FPV was my first quad and I love it. I got the RTF which included transmitter and fat sharks. As I started to get serious I got myself a Spektrum DX6i and a USB dongle for flying simulators, which accelerated my skills in very short time.

I have 5 batteries but that's only around 30 mins flying, before 3-4 hours of recharging. Unless you get yourself a multi-slot charger to cut recharge times down.

In the past 3 months I've gone through 2 or 3 sets of motors, about 4 or 5 sets of props, a new 4-in-1 flight controller and replaced the canopy with half a ping pong ball. Also, as you'll see in my image below, I've done some repairs on the feet because the frame tends to crack after many heavy landings.

Twice now, after nasty crashes the camera's power leads came loose and I had to resolder them, but a few days ago the camera died altogether, so a new one is on its way. Thankfully removing the camera reduces weight to increase flight times as I fly it line of sight indoors and out.

So it's obvious that I'm addicted enough to continuously replace parts. It has taken a beating as I learned to fly, and the parts are not expensive.

Here's what it currently looks like, without a camera. I originally made those little antennae from cable ties to protect the FPV cloverleaf antenna when it lands upside-down, but they are also visually useful for LOS flying.

Yes the XQ7 no longer sells with its AA battery tray, which I think is stupid. But I have been using this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073KPW46P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1