(Part 2) Top products from r/fpvracing

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We found 20 product mentions on r/fpvracing. We ranked the 118 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/fpvracing:

u/Robot_Spider · 4 pointsr/fpvracing

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

u/Coreycry · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Frame: Realacc x210 V+
I have the non-V+ but the size isn't easy to build with, it required to mount the PDB flat, not on stand-offs.
4mm is pretty strong, a good choice for starting.

FPV cam: there are no bad choices, only preferences (PAL vs NTSC / CMOS vs CCD / IR block vs IR sensitive), this Swift will do fine.

Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300KV
2300KV gives you more torque, thus more compatibility with any propellers you want to try, see props section.
You'll choose 2600KV when/if you feel the need to, after more experience flying.

ESC: Racerstar RS30A V2 Blheli_S
Blheli_S is mandatory if building new: compatible with Multishot and Dshot in some extent, start with Multishot though.
20A would do fine I'm sure, but I'll choose 30A because Chinese-numbers and price difference.

PDB: Matek-clone with 5V/12V/Current Sensor
It's so cheap and do the job, integrated current sensor, XT-60 connector at the back.
Buy this XT-60 if mounting battery on the side.

FC: Omnibus F3 clone
OSD is integrated, and works well with the PDB above to read Current Sensor. This Youtube playlist is also nice when starting

Antenna: Anything really, small or long, you'll break them a lot so don't go too expensive right now.
Bear ind mind:
-first fly with this, it still works at fair-enough range and very durable.
-buy the same "type" of antennas: RHCP with RHCP, LHCP with LHCP. Don't mix them and label them if needed!
-5.8GHz for the video, 2.4GHz for your radio/remote.
-look at your video transmitter (Vtx) connector : RP-SMA/SMA-male/female
-buy multiple adapters, you never know when you'll need them.

Props: Science now! Propellers go according to your motors (torque) and also the battery (3S vs 4S), that's for the future, obviously they all fly (and break) at the end.
KingKong 5040 bi-blade are known to be cheap, good and durable.
-Tri-blades are heavier than Bi-blades, 2300KV motors can even bear Quad-blades.
-Bi-blades generally allow more room for unballanced propellers.
Need balancing your props?

Charger: Genuine Imax B3 = need to buy a power supply.
Fake Imax B3 = it works fine, no need to buy power supply.

Battery: There is debate to whether start 3S vs 4S, you could buy 4S now and be gentle on the throtlle.. but do you trust yourself?
I'd start with two 3S until I can do powerloops with confidence, and that's not today.
Get cheap at roughly $30 each, and around 1500mAh to get the most flight time/experience, forget lightweight ultra expensive 100C fake-rating 900mAh like you were racing for $2,000 championship.

Video Transmitter: preferably small & power adjustable, 25mW when flying with others and 200mW when flying alone.
DO NOT turn on 600mW it will simply burn unless you fly very fast all the time, when cold..
Also never power the copter without an antenna, Vtx will also cook.

Goggles: check if it accepts both PAL and NTSC, depending your camera.

Radio receiver: depends on your radio transmitter/remote obviously, I'd suggest going FrSky if you're naked. Check the difference between Mode1 & Mode2 before buying, Google will help.
No money and geek: Devo7e + FrSky/small toys multi-module, can control FrSky & TinyWhoop-like toys but requires some good knowledge on hacking/soldering/configuration.
No money and newbie: Turnigy Evolution is having some hype recently, but does not work with FrSky receivers. You probably need to open this link twice for it to work btw.

EDIT:
M5 size nylocks cuz the aluminum stock ones suck.
Blue Loctite or similar cuz vibrations will loosen the screws.
M3 screws cuz you never have the right size.
M3 nylon stand-offs cuz they break in crashes, you can get a pack of different sizes too.
75W soldering iron and it's the minimum, in this hobby you'll prolly want a station (you'll find good-enough ones at $60 on Amazon)

u/r4stl1n · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

BONUS TABLE

All of the above is assuming you have everything required for building your quad if not below is a table with everything i think is necessary for building a quad. All these links will be from amazon

Part Type | Part Name | Quantity | Total Cost | Reason | Link
---------|---------|----------|----------|---------|----------|
Soldering Station | Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station | 1 | $100 | When it comes to working with quads and electronics you really don't want to skimp on the thing that's putting it together. A good soldering station can change your entire experience when it comes to building quads. For this reason we go with a Hakko once bought you will not need anything else later on. | http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237822&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+station
Hot Glue Gun | CCbetter® Mini Hot Glue Gun | 1 | $15 | You will use this more than you think, everything from securing your camera, antennas, etc to adding extra insulation to your components to ensure nothing falls off or gets ripped off. | http://www.amazon.com/CCbetter%C2%AE-Temperature-Melting-Flexible-Projects/dp/B01178RVI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237957&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+glue+gun
Velcro | VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back | 1 | $11 | Sometimes you need things to only stick for a bit then take it off. Velcro is pretty much self explanatory keep your vtx in place among other things | http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006RSWT/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238198&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=stick+yvelcro
Zip Ties | Heavy Duty Black Cable Ties | 1 | $11 | The corner stone of fpv IMO. These are keeping more quads flying than anything else. | http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Black-Cable-Ties-120lbs/dp/B003Y61A10/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r7oTe3IpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1G5GJ28Z3M8JBJDW67RV
Solder | Miniatronics Corp 1064004 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 4oz | 1 | $12 | You are always going to need solder and this as the flux mixed in meaning it will be a very easy to use solder. | http://www.amazon.com/Miniatronics-Corp-1064004-Rosin-Solder/dp/B0006O933K/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238393&sr=1-7&keywords=solder&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Velcro Straps | Reusable Dubbex Black Velcro Cable Ties | 1 | $13 | Can be used for pretty much anything like batterystrap, hold wires down etc. | http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AW0BDNK?psc=1
Voltmeter | Blackcell DC 3.2-30V LED 0.56inch Panel Meter Digital Voltmeter | 1 | $7 | Eventually something is going to go wrong and you are going to have to ensure that your voltages are correct. You are going to need this to verify volt outputs and to figure out what they are when there is no documentation for what you are looking at | http://www.amazon.com/Blackcell-3-2-30V-0-56inch-Voltmeter-Two-wire/dp/B00ZZIXT8W/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238663&sr=1-6&keywords=voltmeter&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Desolder Tool | LyonsBlue Desoldering Vacuum Pump | 1 | $9 | Very useful for cleaning up to much solder or removing solder from contact pads to redo. Simply heat up the solder and suck it out. | http://www.amazon.com/LyonsBlue-Desoldering-Vacuum-Solder-Removal/dp/B003FHYL7I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238959&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder
TOTAL | FOR | ALL | $178 | |

u/xiMbd03u1 · 1 pointr/fpvracing

Since there is very little consumer interest in a product like this, nearly all of the available products are geared towards the professional video market, and are super expensive.

The simplest way to do it as a consumer would be to feed the video into a PC and use software to stack it up. For example, this video capture interface is around $35:

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-VC500-Touch-Capture-Device/dp/B000VM60I8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449258258&sr=1-2&keywords=video+capture+card

And you might be able to use something like the iSpy open source security camera software to view the feeds live.

https://www.ispyconnect.com/

The iffy part here is that I'm not 100% sure how many of those capture devices you can run at the same time, and whether they will be compatible with iSpy.

u/Ferreteria · 1 pointr/fpvracing

$30.00. Tons of fun to fly, a great cheap introduction, and a great way to learn the basics. There's a learning curve, you're going to crash, so why not use something easily replaceable.

u/raultron · 1 pointr/fpvracing

Thank you very much for the information. Yes, the Easycap actually is a generic brand for devices with different chips, all the info can be found here.

According to some forums, the best chip is the STK1160 and there are several brands which manufacture their devices with this chip. Since it is very hard to find information about the chips I will have to try until I find the correct one. I just purchased this one, I will tell you later if it works.

Which camera system did you use in your setup? did you notice any ghosting or blur?

u/kwaaaaaaaaa · 1 pointr/fpvracing

Yeah, so I used the parts from OP's post but the enclosure is designed around these external parts. I have my model on my desktop, which I've yet to unpack (all still in boxes) since I just moved to another State, so if you are interested, I'll post it for you tomorrow or the day after. If interested, here's more pics of my build.


external parts list:

momentary push buttons

LCD screen

rocker switches

u/jonnygreenjeans · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

You’d be much better off with this type of battery which is safer to charge and maintain than a Lipo [NiMH battery pack](FrSky 2000mAh 7.2V NiMH AA Battery Pack for Taranis Q X7 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073KPW46P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JklyCb9WBXGGN) and a compatible charger such as [this](Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for NiMH / NiCd Battery pack 7.2V - 12V with charging current Selection/Temperature Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVUAVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lllyCbCPZP70W)

u/DominarRygelThe16th · 1 pointr/fpvracing

Currently flying with Goldbat 4S from amazon and they seem to be doing well. Using Racedayquads brand for 2s and 3s packs for my tiny whoop though.

Also this is the charger I have, I use it to charge everything from my 1s tiny whoop batteries and up. It is super easy to use and comes with a power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connectors/dp/B00466PKE0

I recommend picking up a parallel charging board but you can always do 1 at a time charging if you don't get one.

this is the one I have https://www.racedayquads.com/products/power-genius-2-in-1-parallel-charging-board-2-6s-xt30-xt60?variant=19431389200497

u/sbenjaminp · 1 pointr/fpvracing

Electronics kits is the way to go. Buy something recenable cheap and try to make it work. Try not to shake on your hands...

https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-FM-88K-FM-Radio-Kit/dp/B004YHZE0G/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1469015634&sr=1-3&keywords=build+electronics

Also buy these, that will rescue you when you use too much solder...

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-5-Feet-2_0mm-1_5m-Desoldering-Braid-Solder-Remover-Wick-Cable-Wire-CP-2015-p-49770.html

Wash your hands, and dont worry too much about the fumes. It is a problem if you solder every single day, but you will be soldering for a short time, every month only.

Also one of these will help you, not burning your fingers.

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/content/98947/zd-10f-0.jpg

u/skizztle · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Yeah those are cold joints and could come loose at some point. I will say I am a decent solderer and I had issues soldering the signal ground on the BF board.

Flux is magic and you need to order some ASAP. For stuff like pads and holes I like a liquid flux pen. Amazon

u/poorwegian · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Regarding charging multiple lipos using your charger:

You could pick something like this up: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperion-Parallel-Charge-Adapter-Lipoly/dp/B005I5GLQ4

This would charge multiple batteries at once. Just make sure that the amperage is set correctly for how many batteries you're charging. I assume the batteries are 150mah with a 3C charge rating, so if you're charging only one battery, then .45amps. 2 batteries would be .9 amps, etc.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking regarding the USB charger port. If you're referring to the microUSB port on the B6AC, then I believe that's for data transfer only and would not attempt to charge the lipos using the USB charger. Any regular USB port or USB charger that's meant to charge USB devices should work to charge the lipos, though.

u/T-Bone_FPV · 1 pointr/fpvracing

On my dominator v2's there is a micro hdmi port and I can plug them into my hdmi port on the laptop. I use a http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Speed-Micro-cable-Ethernet/dp/B0060AU5MW

u/chluaid · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

The Blade nQX FPV was my first quad and I love it. I got the RTF which included transmitter and fat sharks. As I started to get serious I got myself a Spektrum DX6i and a USB dongle for flying simulators, which accelerated my skills in very short time.

I have 5 batteries but that's only around 30 mins flying, before 3-4 hours of recharging. Unless you get yourself a multi-slot charger to cut recharge times down.

In the past 3 months I've gone through 2 or 3 sets of motors, about 4 or 5 sets of props, a new 4-in-1 flight controller and replaced the canopy with half a ping pong ball. Also, as you'll see in my image below, I've done some repairs on the feet because the frame tends to crack after many heavy landings.

Twice now, after nasty crashes the camera's power leads came loose and I had to resolder them, but a few days ago the camera died altogether, so a new one is on its way. Thankfully removing the camera reduces weight to increase flight times as I fly it line of sight indoors and out.

So it's obvious that I'm addicted enough to continuously replace parts. It has taken a beating as I learned to fly, and the parts are not expensive.

Here's what it currently looks like, without a camera. I originally made those little antennae from cable ties to protect the FPV cloverleaf antenna when it lands upside-down, but they are also visually useful for LOS flying.