(Part 2) Top products from r/goodyearwelt

Last week I snagged the last of my size, 8.5 D, in the Eben boot, which was in the sale section. That sale section Rider offers is impressive and made what would be out of my reach attainable. I love that he offers it. It's good for guys who want well-made boots that look suitable for the office and don't want to pay Viberg prices or Alden prices (which are almost never eligible for coupons). And I love my Alden JCrew cordovan cap toe boots, don't get me wrong. But once I got those last summer, that was my huge splurge. No footwear for $400+ for a long time for me. To get the Eben at $200 is amazing when I consider the alternatives at that price.

Update: added comparison pics to Alden JCrew cordovan boot

Background:

About a year ago, I realized I had gotten tired of disposable footwear that broke down and started to hurt my joints (and I'm only 37!), that I couldn't re-sole after breaking them in, that were a waste of materials, etc. So I splurged for the Alden cordovan and resoled in Dainite by Aram of AH One Shoes as a super-durable high-quality choice. If I was only going to buy one pair of quality, versatile, long-lasting while staying good-looking boots, those were them. And then my wife and I agreed I can't be spending $600 (including the discounts!) on shoes every year. Ok, deal.

I had seen the Rider Boot Co Eben boots on Massdrop after getting my Alden boots and really thought they were fantastic looking. A high quality Alden Indy boot alternative that looks sleeker in my opinion and perhaps sturdier, too. I was extremely pleased to know about the durability and low maintenance of waxed Kudu (and that it was actual antelope, unlike Alden's "Kudu").

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago when my low-quality brogue boot in rotation finally started to get a hole in the sole. I told my wife "I'm shopping for new boots and after having the Aldens I really don't want another disposable thing on my feet. I'm tired of having to go through it all again every year. They breakdown structurally before the sole gets a hole anyway. It just doesn't seem smart." She understood, but at the same time there was no way I was going to be able to spend $400 or $500 on Alden Indy boots. The alternative seemed to be JCrew house brand Pacer boots, made in China with plastic welts, soft soles, thin leather, synthetic footbed...and those cost like $150 with discounts. And although they're Goodyear welted, they still seemed like "how many resoles will I actually be able to get on these before they start falling apart, really." Just didn't seem like money well spent. It began to feel like I either somehow magically get a $400 boot, or I resign to get a $75 boot once again. There are Red Wings and Wolverines and Chippewas that can be had around $200, but the toe shape and actual workboot aesthetic limited their versatility. I needed to be able to wear my new boots to my office job. There are some Allen Edmonds that can be found for almost that cheap, but limited in the boot selection and often leather soled or 2nds quality. If I'd found new Daltons in Dainite for $200 I'd be all over them.

Initial Impressions:

I received the Eben boots yesterday and they're beautiful! I love the color in person, and the Kudu leather is so soft and distinctive without calling too much attention to itself. They appear to check the box for durable, good looking, low maintenance, and versatile. Also, I noticed that the soles are Dainite while the heels are made in Italy--I assume Sestriere. Interesting anyway. I've been extremely satisfied with the Dainite but had heard Sestriere is slightly softer. If true then I'm even happier to have this configuration rather than all Sestriere.

They feel extremely comfortable on the foot--soft and supple, but somehow sturdy, as well. I'll have to weigh them, but they feel lighter than the Alden JCrew cordovan boots. Those hold me upright and keep me grounded, while the Rider Eben is ready to spring into action.
Update: I weighed them and they're actually 3 oz heavier per boot than the Aldens! They don't feel that way on the foot.

Seeing them in person confirmed my impressions from the photos: they look like a sleek version of the Alden Indy boot. When I mentioned my Indy alternative description to Mr. Rider, he said that was the idea behind the boot--that a more tailored version of the Indy would be a good description.

Fit and Sizing:

The Massdrop description I found recommended TTS Brannock, and Mr. Rider confirmed that in an email I sent him just before ordering. He acknowledged that they would be longer in the toes than the Alden Barrie last boots.

My first impression was that they were extremely comfortable, but a half size too large. Just a feeling. However, I can say that I think the ball of my foot is lined up with the widest part of the boot, so perhaps I was just not accustomed to a longer toe that the Eben has. That said, there's more volume to the boot than I expected. The fit pic shows a comfortably snug lacing. It actually looks similar to my Alden Barrie last boots (which are size 8 D) but those feel more snug overall--granted they're broken in. It's hard to know when trying such a stiff sole as Dainite.

I took some more time later that night to try to achieve a good fit. With my standard not-too-thin socks that I wear with my Alden Barrie lasted boots, I snugged up the lacing more than in the album pic and got a better fit. The heel to ball length lines up and the elongated toe seemed somehow not as surprising to me. Still, they were slightly large-volume feeling on the top of my foot at the instep. I tried thicker socks, and this was just a degree too far--too tight at the top of the instep. Then, I tried an old removable Johnston and Murphy insole--very thin foam topped with a thin leather layer. Those combined with my standard socks did the trick! It was a Goldilocks moment. The insole insert is about 3mm thick.

Therefore, I'm considering either Tacco 613 or Pedag 102 insoles that appear to be identical flat, leather-topped, latex/charcoal foam inserts. I also am thinking about some Saphir flat, leather-topped, cork inserts, and I see an identical version called Kaps Pecari Cork Insoles available for cheaper on Amazon. The holes configurations and the leather texture appears to the the identical as the Saphir product. I've emailed Kaps and asked whether they are the supplier to Saphir. Any of these three are 2.5 mm to 3 mm thick and they're all cheap at $15 or less. My instinct is to go with the Kaps since it appears the same as Saphir I'd like to keep with a traditional cork foot-bed feel. However, maybe there's a good reason no one else offers that type, and there are numerous recommendations for the Tacco version here and on styleforum. Does anyone have any thought for or against the latex vs cork?
Note: Unless I'm mistaken from Mr. Rider's posts on styleforum, Rider Boot Co's Blake-Rapid construction has no corkbed between the insole and midsole.

Long term outlook and maintenance:

First this from CF Stead's page on Waxed Kudu:
"The Kudu is an antelope from Southern Africa, living wild in the bush. The antelope family have traditionally provided skins, which make unique leather. A striking combination of softness with strength.
We have used our ‘Janus’ tannage which was designed to maximise the natural mellowness of a calf skin and we combined this with a full wax impregnation, making a feature of the natural grain blemishes."

From what I have read and from what Mr. Rider has told me, there's not much to do to maintain Kudu. It's oiled and waxed for durability and has a rustic appearance so I expect normal wear will not change the appearance for the worse. I'm really curious to see how these will crease and age. The Kudu is thick but supple. It's a completely foreign material to me, so we'll see!

Additional observations:

1. There is a thin, black thread I noticed coming out of the moc toe stitching, crossing over to the other side, going back in, and coming out again. The end is shaped as if it was burned down--a tiny ball shape. I mentioned this to Mr. Rider to see if he has any thoughts on it. Update from Mr. Rider: It's not a structural stitch so nothing to worry about.
   
   
2. There appears to be a nick in the Kudu just above the welt on the inside of each boot. One appears more significant than the other. My only concern is to maintain the health of the leather and structural integrity. I've asked Mr. Rider if there is anything I should do. Update from Mr. Rider: He apologized, explained that there was probably a slip when they did the storm welt (done with a glass shard entirely by hand). He said there should be no worries and told me to keep him posted if anything comes of it.
   
   
3. It's extremely difficult to find a Kudu belt! I'm now in the market for something dark brown with red undertones, contrast stitching...considering keeping my eyes peeled for something in nubuck and then applying some conditioner. Open to suggestions.
   
   Thank you to Ron Rider for being so available, responsive, and patient with my questions and concerns! This has been an extremely satisfying process and I'm extremely impressed with the boots and the customer service.

Although there are more knowledgeable folks around here, I've had to deal with some plantar fasciitis that flat insoles can flare up so I'll give this a rip. Not sure if you're looking for arch support so YMMV.

• 1)Most welted shoes don't have inserts that can be removed. There may be thin leather liner cemented onto the insole but that's it. The whole shoe is built around the insole like a car is built on the frame.
  
• 2. A resole doesn't change the insole. Maybe google shoe construction and learn for yourself how the welt is sewn onto the insole and upper (Goodyear welted, handwelted, stitchdown, etc) and then the outer sole is attached to the welt. A resole only replaces the outer sole and affiliated stitching. The insole could be replaced I suppose but that would require a complete rebuild on the original last and well... why would you? Might as well buy a new shoe.
     
• 3. Yes some brands have better support than others. In boots I have a pair of Whites which are famous for their Archease insoles. I love them. Nicks does too although I don't have any experience with them. Regarding shoes, Allen Edmunds have never caused me a problem. The best supporting shoe out if the box was actually from Buday a Hungarian maker.
     
• 4. I use Superfeet insoles in some of my flat insole shoes with generous lasts. Vibergs 2030 and Alden Barrie and Trubalance lasts are conducive for the low profile Superfeets. Alden also has their Modified last built to accept orthotics if u get a Prescription. I've never felt the need to see a podiatrist (yet) so These work well in more generous last and these work better in tighter shoes. Many of my shoes just won't accept an insert and I find these work well to avoid the plantar fasciitis.
     
     Good luck. I enjoy all my shoes despite the flat insoles. Good luck

Very happy to help! I don't personally own a pair of those but a good friend (and fellow footwear idiot) has a few pair and loves them.

I think the Woodlore Epic is the current sub darling, if you want to go with a tested time-proven option.

Have a great night and weekend!

1. Saphir is the best polish on the market. Many shoe manufacturers also have their own brand of polish.
   
   
2. Any horsehair brush will be fine
   
   The response given is a little confusing, since in the first sentence they recommend a wax polish and then refer to it as a cream in the rest of the text.
   
   Are you trying to shine your shoes or just take care of them?
   
   Either way, start with a cream that closely matches the color of your shoes, this will condition the leather and help to recolor scuffs and scratches. Apply in the way the email describes or refer to the care guide linked above.
   
   If you feel like you want a higher shine, wax polish is the next step. Again, check out the care guide for instructions.
   

Looking to buy my first pair of boots and want something that I can wear this Fall but will also hold up well in a Colorado winter. Want to wear it everyday in winter and most days in the fall. I looked at the boot buying guide and like the Chippewa Apache Lace-up Boot. Is this a good winter boot? What color should I get that work best? brown or black? Dark brown or light?

I wear a size 12US in Nike running shoes and I tried on some CDB and the 10.5 was the most comfortable. What size should I get? I'm a little nervous that I will buy a size too small or have wider feet than I thought and the boot being too narrow.

Is this a good place to post this or should I just make my own post?

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

Can someone give me recommendations on sleeker black boots with a big aggressive sole? I'd prefer a wedge, but heavy lugs also work. In terms of styling, think Slayer shows and moshpits, not dressy. Leather with pronounced pull-up is a plus, as is a sidezip - if I can get it from a Canadian stockist, even better. The Chippewa Odessa looks pretty alright, but I'm looking for something a little more detailed and higher quality. Budget is up to $700, but I don't want to support Viberg. Cheers!

Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.

Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (http://www.foresupplyco.com/productDetail.asp_Q_catID_E_48_A_subCatID_E_55_A_productID_E_703_A_strSession_E_11CDE680EB31BEC5B749AC768C51E5CDB07E9B03), Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.

Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:

1. Clean that shit up. Wet rag and also a horse brush to clean barnacles off the shoes. If you get a really bad stain or some shitty residue, use leather cleaner.
   
   
2. Allow to dry.
   
   
3. Use a rag or cloth and apply a small amount of conditioner everywhere (not soles obviously...). Do your best not to use too much. Pea shape? IDK, spot another guide. So like at most pea shape.
   
   
4. Dry.
   
   
5. GGEZ
   
   5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip
   
   Repeat every blue moon or something.

Someone else on Reddit recommended these which you can get from Amazon. I ordered the size 11 for my 9E Grant Stones which were just slightly too roomy with medium weight socks. The insoles fit perfectly and make the boots comfortably snug and I just take them out if I'm wearing heavy wool socks.

I don't know what price range you mean by not too expensive but here are some options.


Red Wing Moc Toe lug is a different moc toe without a wedge sole but still might be too bulky.

Thorogood has this cheaper moc toe that you might like.

Red Wing Beckman moc toe is a nice but slightly pricier option.

Irish Setter is Red Wings cheaper hunt and work label but they are all made in China. They have some other options

Or you could look into some Made in Maine handsewns for a different moc toe look. Here is a Quoddy chukka for cheap if you happen to be a 11.5

Hope this helps some.

Simple Lexol conditioner will be more than sufficient the first time just to give the leather some life. Not sure how long they could've been sitting in the box before you purchased them. No need to go crazy with maintenance on those boots. Using a simple horsehair brush before each wear just to knock any dust off of them will be enough. Those boots are meant to take a beating, rain, dirt, mud, whatever - they'll be fine. No wax on them. Ever.

Leather conditioner is like the conditioner we put on our skin. Leather after all is skin, and it gets dried out. It just needs to get some moisture to it.

As far as a shoe tree - the one you linked is pretty nice and if you feel like spending the money for it that's fine. An inexpensive one like this will be more than sufficient..

I think Nordstroms half yearly sale may get you some pretty cheap shoe trees (~$15) too - may want to check over there first. The shoe trees are just there to provide some moderate shape to the boot. The leather is pretty thick on those and will be more than fine without it - but it'll keep any thick wrinkles from developing in the vamp. If you sweat a lot in the boots, the cedar provides some relief to the leather from the moisture build up.

There's no moisture to bring back ;) Chromexcel is essentially saturated with oil to specifically make it impervious to water, so to soften it... put more oil is basically the answer. Chromexcel is finished with neatsfoot oil so you'd want a product with that. I know the Saphir oiled leather lotion I talked about is made from it, but there's also the Lexol one which I think is quite popular on the sub. There's also Bick4 which is popular but I've got no idea what's in it. Seems to be working for this guy, though. You can also just ask in the daily question thread, you'll get a better answer. At least 80% of ppl here have Chromexcel boots.

I just picked these Kirkland trail socks for a decent price. I've been wearing them with my work boots and they are very comfortable.

I hear Darn Tough makes some great socks with a lifetime guarantee. People socks are another option for thick boot socks.

Hey guys, this is a simple question and I couldn't find the answer anywhere even after searching.

I just got a pair of Johnston & Murphy dark brown oxfords and they are made out of sheepskin leather (went in for AE's last minute and Nordstrom store was out). Can I use my usual boot leather conditioner/protector (listed here) on these, combined with a damp rag wipe when necessary?

I was reading around and the only info I could find was on this site stating "To protect your sheepskin from cracking or drying out, a leather conditioner specifically for sheepskin is essential." Is this true? I would rather not have to go back to the store and buy their shoe cream if I don't have to. Or if anyone knows of an alternative on Amazon that would be cool.

Thanks!!!

Thanks for the advice!

The toes seem to have darkened up after even just a year. Your boots look great overall.

Was there a specific color of Meltonian Cream Polish you used?

Looks like there are a bunch of options: Amazon

I'd like to add a rubber half sole to my pair of AE strands. I heard the sole would wear out quickly so I'd like to preserve them the best I can.

Would these work?
Would you recommend I see a local cobbler instead?

I just bought a pair of Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees in medium from the US (online) and they are too big for my shoes. They are suited for sizes 8D-9.5D, however I found with my 8D shoes they applied too much pressure. I would say they are better suited for sizes 9D-10D.

I have only put them in my shoes once, and they are for all practical purposes brand new. Comes in original box and will be packed up securely.

I am looking for $20CAD plus whatever shipping is within Canada only. Paypal

Shoe Trees I Bought

Brannock Size: 11.5 A

Additional notes about feet: Low instep, skinny ankles, Greek toe box, low foot volume

Allen Edmonds 97 Last: 11.5 A is a perfect fit. I also have a pair in 11.5 B and they're a bit loose in terms of overall volume, but definitely wearable.

Nisolo: (they don't give details on lasts) 11 D, with SuperFeet DELUX insoles (size large). The length of the shoes is good, but they are on a relatively high-volume last, so I need the insoles to prevent heel slippage.

My heel was slipping pretty badly out of my RW 875s and per GYWs suggestion, I tried insoles. It helped tremendously! Now the issue, however, is that my toes are crunched. So I really see three options:

• A thinner insole (not preferable. I like the cushion of Spenco brand insoles and like to stick with them)
  
  
• 3/4 lengths insole
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPKUZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U0Fezb58M47BR
  
  
• Tongue pads
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030M800C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p1FezbADBF0DN
  
  
  Is there a preference here? Primarily between options 2 and 3.
  
  Thanks!

Clean them with some saddle soap. Use good brushes. Then apply some leather honey on the brown parts. It'll help bring back some of the original color quality, but boots that old, and that worn, are going to be hard to get back to the original finish.

On the plus side, boots that old and that worn are supposed to look like that. Clean them up a bit and take care of the soles and you should have no problem getting another 15 years out of them.

Simple question: Any consensus on using Leather Honey for good boots? I've used it and it worked fine on some leather items, but I managed to over-condition some pieces and it really darkened some veg-tanned leather.

What conditioner/cream should I be looking at if I want to make sure not to darken brown/tan leather?

I have slightly different sized feet (which is very common). You have to size for the larger foot unless you want to go the MTO route. As was stated, AE will do this for the cost of the MTO fee ($125 IIRC).

Mine are about .25-.5 size difference. In most shoes, after they break in, they are fine. For others, I use a thin leather insole in just the left shoe. It feels strange for about a day and then I adjust.

For reference, I use these very thin Pedag insoles. I now have a nice collection of unused sz 11 right foot insoles if anyone has a larger left foot :)

Cool beans! Thanks for the info.

Would this work for conditioner? Or is there another product that would be more bang for buck?

In regards to polishing the shoe, would regular kiwi brown shoe polish work?

Thanks. Herring and who else? You said you tried two sites.

Another option for getting the right fit are shoe tongue pads. You apply them to the inside of the shoes' tongues so they press down on your instep. I find them useful when I don't want to put extra insoles in my feet but still want to push back into the heel a little.

https://www.amazon.com/Pairs-Tongue-Cushion-Shoes-Medium/dp/B0030M800C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468012697&sr=8-1&keywords=tongue+pad

The thinnest ones (Black) I got were still a bit too thick to be used as a space filler. You might better off with something thing like:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E53XH2/ref=wms_ohs_product

woodlore epic twin tube works pretty well in my experience

Just curious, but why did you go with Otter Wax over something like Sno Seal or Obenauf's?

I purchased these for a pair Rider boots in the 42 last that had too much volume. It worked perfectly. Also they're fairly inexpensive so it's worth a try.

I want some quality black boots. I've never spend much on footwear except the one day I bought AE Strands.

I really like the look of the Black Red Wing Beckman's. But as a college student I don't know if I want to spend 340$ for them. Are they're alternatives to the black Beckman? Maybe somewhere <200$ or will there be deals to knock them down a bit? I wear a size 13 in the Strands.

How about these? http://www.amazon.com/Chippewa-Mens-Inch-Rugged-Boot/dp/B00INUOOU6/ref=pd_rhf_pe_s_cp_7_RCTX?ie=UTF8&refRID=06GYFMV1C189N5MRB4C6

Ok so I’m looking for moc toe boot that can service me in the winter time(Minnesotan winter to be exact). So from what I understand I’m looking for a rubber sole with lugs. I’ve been looking at mostly redwings because that’s what I know is recommended most the time.

So something like this WOUND’T work? RW Heritage Classic Moc

But his would, right? RW Moc toe Lug

or this? I’m not sure about the sole Thorogood Moc Toe tobacco

This says it’s a Vibram® Christy Blown Rubber Wedge outsole, would that work? Thorogood Moc toe brown crazyhorse

Those last two would appear to be the same damn thing, but say they have different soles.

I really like the white wedge sole, but it’s hard to commit to something that will be a liability come winter time. The price on lugged sole I’m not a fan of, but it is what it is.

The way a lot of these are described seems inconsistent to me and I can’t make heads or tails of what won’t cause me to eat shit this winter…

Also, any other boots I should be looking at?

Thanks.

EDIT: What about these?

If you can get an Amazon shipment while in the UK, they have Lexol.

Wonder Balsam should be fine. The only beef I have with it is lanolin. There's nothing wrong with it, I just don't particularly like it as an ingredient. Dr. Martens may have done something to make it behave better, but it doesn't stay in leather all that well.

Also, YMMV, but I don't always like having beeswax in my products.

All right, so this or this? And should I get an applier like this, or can I just use a regular sponge?

Bet. You just saved me some money!

I need aesthetic advice. Black wedges or White?

> https://imgur.com/a/tOhUkq6

someone either stuck on DIY or had put on for them a vibram sole protector/ half sole. I have found those the easiest to DIY; they wear well and they are cheapish on amazon

I used shoe goo to fix the exact same problem on my quoddy camp sole penny loafers, and so far it has help up nicely

http://www.amazon.com/Shoegoo-82049-Shoe-Goo-Clear/dp/B002L9AL84

What color laces are they? Are those considered "white" on amazon...or are those "beige?" The beige looks quite a bit darker than these, but I certainly wouldn't want bright white laces.

Link to laces

maybe i wasnt taking care of my redwings. Does this help the life of them? They ALWAYS crack right behind the steel toe

Do you want a high shine finishing wax or a general shoe care+shining polish? If the latter, I'd say just suck it up and get Saphir Pate De Lux without Prime. Medaille D'Or is their top of the line stuff, but if you're looking to spend a little less, their second-tier line - Beaut Du Cur - is also good. Don't let a few extra days and dollars stop you from buying something you're going to have for months/years.

I bought my first pair of "premium" Chelsea boots - Meermin Black Calfs - a couple of days ago. The thing is, is that they come with leather soles and they are really slippery, especially since I'm not a slow walker. Since they're brand new, I don't want to get them resoled. I found "half soles" on Amazon that I can glue to the bottom of the soles. Would this be a good idea? If so, is there a tutorial or a buying guide for these soles?

Semi-urgent as I'm wearing these to work today (driving though...) and I'm worried I should return them.

Do these look like they fit correctly? One Redditor said they might be too narrow for my feet. They feel a little tight but I am wearing some thick-ish socks.

http://i.imgur.com/lcnCYRa.jpg - sitting

http://imgur.com/sjvUo36 - on my toes

http://www.amazon.com/Strong-Flat-Shoe-Laces-Brown/dp/B007BCUHEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450655053&sr=8-1&keywords=brown+flat+waxed+laces

I ordered some but the shipping takes forever so I cancelled my order and got leather laces instead.

Laces from Red Wing, I believe, are 48", so you might want to try 60"

Chippewas are the GYW recommended option at this pricepoint.

https://www.amazon.com/Meltonian-Boot-Cream-Polish-Ounces/dp/B0019NAEAI

check out meltonian polish. ask the Questions thread- I know they make a product that matches The Cherry Beckman PERFECTLY but I forget which one.

also there are numerous other colored conditioners- saphir and venetian shoe cream come to mind.

Be wary of over conditioning. BTW

Some people avoid Huberd's and Obenauf's LP because they'll darken the leather. But if that's what you're looking to do, then they may be perfect for you.

Edit: Just bought a pair of Natural Trenches and a can of LP to spite you guys.

I'm in the same boat as you, I just bought a pair of Iron Rangers. I snagged a Luxol cleaner and a separate Luxol conditioner, which says "non darkening" on the bottle.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFQE68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't tried it, but it seemed between that and Bick 4 for the least altering product.

Alternatively, if you want something without petroleum distillates, Lexol has a Neatsfoot/Rapid Restorer that also does not darken leather.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Summit-Industry-Incorp-1008-Conditioner/dp/B007I6F4QY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482102260&sr=8-4&keywords=lexol

Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP is 20% off at Amazon

vibram lug sole

TZ laces

Shoe Goo!

It depends on how much space you need to be taken up; I've used these a lot over the past few years to take up a little space in shoes that are either a little too big or have stretched.

No change in width; the inserts just added some height under my heels and arches.

If you want to try Superfeet, and can't find any locally, Amazon has them with free return shipping if they don't fit.

EG still claims their UK sizes are 1/2 lower that US. That applied to me. I am 8.5D, and I took their UK8. I tried on UK7.5 in their shop, and it was too small.

don't know why I commented in such broken english lol, but there are different people socks. The cheaper ones or these ones.

Which percentage merino wool are yours, 71 or 42?

Truman. $250-450 is a weird zone, you have Chippewa lug sole for under $200 (Don't know if they are also too bulbous for you).

It makes you wonder if $250-450 is a range for bulbous toe only...

Lexol is recommended all the time. There are many conditioning products. Which one do I use?

There's the conditioner, the deep conditioner, and the leather dressing. and probably others. I've seen all of the above linked when referencing lexol, so I'm thoroughly confused.

Tongue pads might be what you are looking for. Not sure if these are thick enough to accommodate that much of a size problem.

Hi everyone - I have a pair of 5-year-old Doc Martens where the sole (welt?) split in the foot arch area. I don't have a photo of my boots, but another reddit user has experienced the same thing:

https://i.redd.it/i0bm69q2bqx11.jpg

One of the commenters suggested "Shoe Glue." Is this recommended to repair them this way? There is no local cobbler that I'm aware of. Even if there was, isn't it more economical to just... buy another pair at this point?