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Hello there and welcome.

Im glad you want to take a leap into hackintosh-ing. Its a really good (and cheaper) experience, that when done properly, it can work like a real mac, and you wouldnt tell the difference.


Now for the bad news. I looked at your laptop specs (and even those not listed on the link you provide). I dont want to scare you or anything, but you will have at least two main issues here, one could be easily solved but will require you to spend a little money, this is because no Intel WiMax wifi card is (and will likely never be) supported in Mac. You will need to buy a new Wireless card for your laptop. I had to do that as well and ended buying an AzureWave CE-123H Link, and ended with a hassle free working Bluetooth 4LE, and wifi 2.4/5.0ghz. I don’t know which specific intel card you have, since the link doesn’t tell much about it, so you need to look inside your laptop for its sticker or look into windows device manager so you can find the exact model you have, from there you need to identify the form factor of your wireless card, and search for a mac-compatible replacement. See here for a really good (and also really outdated) list of compatible wireless cards per OSX version.


The second issue you will find, and believe me, this can be a total PITA for you, is that you have a formerly Sandy Bridge intel CPU, those processors are packed with Intel HD Graphics 3000, and that version was never properly introduced in OSX, so you need to force the way into it by following some guides out there, that usually require you to “spoof” it so it looks like another device. The real problem is that a combination of “never been on osx” and “some intel bugs inside the graphics api”, will give you graphic artifacts on your screens, specially when using textures that renders in 3D, this is caused by some texture memory corruption that occurs inside the HD3000 architecture when on OSX. This, as far as i know, cannot be fixed and you will have to live with it. (This is solved on the next iteration of intel GPUs, its HD4000). That texture corruption can be mitigated greatly by using at least 8Gb of RAM, and some kernel boot arguments on OSX (ie: slide, darkwake, etc), but from my personal experience (i also owned an HD3000 laptop), you will never get rid of those 100%. Download a gpu benchmark tool when already in OSX and you will see what i say. The only permanent solution to this, is to completely forgot about HD3000 graphics and use a dedicated nVidia or ATI gpu, which your laptop doesn’t have (like the one i owned before my Ivy Bridge lappy)


Anyways, if you want to try and take a look at how it behaves in your personal laptop, i can try and give you a hand on the most complicated tasks, like DSDT patching and Kext finding. And can also guide you through the process. Again, im sorry if i scared you with the previous text, but i just wanted to be completely sincere about it. Also please take in mind that i only tested it on 2 HD3000 (Sandy Bridge) systems, one for Lenovo and one for Toshiba, and that every laptop out there (even from the same model) are different, hence your mileage may vary. But im pretty confident on the results and the field-experience i have.


You will need Clover in UEFI mode, Lilu.kext, IntelGraphicsFixup.kext, and NullCpuPowerManagement.kext, just to name some kexts, just to make your system bootable until you can create a custom SSDT to enable native hardware power management. And of course the base kext, FakeSMC.kext.


Feel free to ask any more question and/or to contact me directly if you want (my) help. Now i feel kinda bad for giving you those news so directly, and also feel like that is the least i can do now. And if you don’t, then good luck and i hope you didn’t face any persistent bug and you have a nice and neat experience :-)


EDIT: These are the bugs i mentioned.


BTW: Please DONT download any of the tools available on tonycrapx86. That site is full with poorly developed and buggy-as-hell tools they advertise as the holy grail. In fact the whole site has its tricks, the people there doesn’t want to help you make the system you want, they make you build the system they want. Its their way, or they will not help you. I suggest you that every time you look for info there, take it with a pinch of salt, carefully think about it, and then also search on other sources, and build your own conclusions.

I run a very similar setup (8700K, Z370-A Prime, DDR4-2666 Memory) and it works like a charm for me. I use it as my primary workstation and all important features work (Dual Boot, Mojave, working Sleep / Wake, fast, Bluetooth / Wifi / Ethernet, Audio, USB, works with integrated graphics via Displayport). Based on my experience with this build I would suggest:

• Consider upgrading to an M.2 Nvme, this has a huge impact on performance, I don't know what the prices for a Samsung 970 EVO in Australia are, but imho the upgrade is worth it. Choose the 970 Evo over the 970 Pro if you want to save some money. Also from personal experience: Do not choose the 970 Evo Plus, you might run into issues here. I was a pre-order customer and (like many others) could not get it working. I know that Samsung provided a newer firmware a few days ago which apparently will solve those issues, but if you are building this for your boss then you might want to be on the safe side and choose the well proven 970 EVO.
  
• I would personally pick DDR4-2666 memory, it is cheaper and it seems that you are not planning to overclock the build anyways (as you chose the 8700 over the 8700K, which cannot be overclocked). The performance gain of the 3000 over the 2666 might be negligible. Maybe this saves you some money so that you can opt into the M.2 SSD. I run "G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666" memory, but that is personal flavor. Check common sites for a memory support overview.
  
• Wifi / Bluetooth: I am not familiar with the PCE-AC56, but you might want to think about getting one of the recommended Wifi Card Modules from Broadcom and install them by using a PCIE adapter. Benefit is that you will get Bluetooth support on top of Wifi, and there is literally nothing you have to do to configure or install it ... plug it in ... done. I had a Bcm94360cs2 lying around and bought this PCIE adapter on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KBBFV4/), but there are many vendors out there that have compatible adapters.

Here ya go. This should work pretty much seamlessly. TonyMacX86 has this configuration working perfectly out of the box. Especially considering the Wifi Card is that actual wifi card pulled out of modern iMacs.

Price can be reduced by reducing down to an i5-4690 (non-k) and the Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H (non-overclockable CPU and Motherboard Chipset) for around 150 less. Downgrade to cheaper ram to save some money, downgrade the SSD to something smaller/less expensive, etc. Lot's of flexibility here, but the core components are here.

Simply switch out your preferred ram/SSD/Storage drive/Case to your preference. Voila. 4k Hackintosh as stable as you're gonna get,.

Use the Unibeast/Multibeast installation method and it should work pretty well. Very detailed walkthrough on how to get started here.

Keep in mind you'll need a real mac or a functional hackintosh before hand to create the unibeast installer.

If all you have access to is windows, you can use a Virtual Machine to make the installer. Here is a detailed guide on getting the VM up and running in windows.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $316.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $88.98 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $149.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $207.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $229.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Red 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $114.00 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card | $282.98 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Micro Center
Monitor | Asus PB287Q 60Hz 28.0" Monitor | $561.99 @ SuperBiiz
Other| Apple Broadcom PCI-e Mini Wireless AC + Bluetooth 4.0| $29.98
Other| Apple Wifi Mini PCIe to PCIe x1 converter| $26.97
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2214.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 02:30 EST-0500 |

Unfortunately you're kind of limited in mATX selection, but the Gigabyte Z390M is a good choice.

You're definitely going to be limited further still as far as space for all those PCI-E devices too.

Vega64 will obscure the PCI-E 1x slot below it and you'd need to install your 10GbE card in the bottom PCI-E 4x slot, so that leaves no further room which means you'll need to resort to using USB for WiFi and BT.

For Bluetooth you can use a GYMLE BT USB adaptor (or similar chipset) which should work natively.

For WiFi, I've read that others have had success with TP-Link's Mac drivers for their USB WiFi products like the Archer T4U.

Which 10GbE card are you planning on using? Just make sure it's compatible first. Even though there are official Aquantia-based NICs used on real Macs, most won't work out-of-the-box without tinkering. I have a Sonnet Solo 10G PCI-E myself. I know there's a Syba version too. Some people were able to flash Intel X540/X550 cards in order to use SmallTree drivers, but I think Syba is pretty much 'plug and play' and cheaper anyway.

As for cooling in your Corsair 280X and your desire for overclocking your 9900K to 5GHz, liquid cooling is probably the most appropriate option since you're limited by the 150mm height for any decent air cooling options. I'm more of an 'air' guy myself so I'm not too sure which options are the most appropriate for your use case, but there's heaps of reviews about the best AIO coolers for the 9900K out there you can look at.

Since ASUS decided to drop GPT formatted drive booting support, you'll have to install the bootloader to the EFI partition if you wish to keep using the Unibeast method. Also be sure to install TRIM support for your SSD in multibeast.


HOW TO INSTALL THE BOOTLOADER TO THE EFI PARTITION:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ix0BtrKitMs


If you really wanna avoid this in the future and when you learn more about Hackintoshes, then you will discover that Clover will solve alot more problems and such, even the booting problem because by deafult Clover is an EFI bootloader. :) BTW Clover will bring not only Legacy support but also UEFI support for those who like it. I personally say to everyone if your current legacy Chimera/Chameleon install is working fine, then there really is no need for Clover, unless they wanna experiment. In which case, you should always make a backup.

As fpr your wifi card, it seems it no longer is supported in OS X Yosemite or any recent OS X version such as Mavericks or Mountain lion either. Maybe you could send it back if its new and dish out a few more bucks for the TP-Link TL-WDN4800 Wifi adapter. Its usually like 30-40 bucks, but trust me, even as a high schooler with a tight budget, it was worth the money. Its an amazing adapter even dual booting with windows. Works out of the box in Yosemite on most installs.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A

As I said before, the three I suggested are known to be supported by Mac OS. However, the DW1550 allows for Continuity/Handoff, should you need those features. A guide for that can be found here, though it may be quite difficult for newcomers (not to insult your intelligence).

Personally, I use the DW1510, which can be found here for a little under $11. I was very happy with the ease of use, and as soon as I put in the network password, it was good to go.

What laptop is it that you're using, out of curiosity? Do you know the model number? Hopefully, I could better help you if I knew.

Again, good luck!

EDIT: Clarity

1. Unless you 've replaced the combo Wifi/BT card in your EliteDesk, that card won't work. Apple has never used Intel-based Wifi/BT cards and they are not supported. This is why your wifi doesn't work. Go buy a supported wifi card found here and get this adapter card. to find the M.2 card in your wifi slot. For full Continuity/Handoff support, you really need a supported Broadcom card. You can find a list of supported cards here.
   
2. Be forewarned, you are likely get some hate due to mentioning Multibeast in public. All tools can certainly have their use cases, but the conventional wisdom is vanilla installs are much better than using the Unibeast/Multibeast methods due to the fact that Unibeast/Multibeast place updated files within the MacOS filesystem, whereas Vanilla install methods keep all of the driver changes contained within the UEFI partition. The implication is Apple updates can easily break your machine if you are changing files inside of MacOS, but it is generally far safer to keep your changes in the UEFI partition because Apple leaves that partition alone.
   
3. Your EliteDesk 800G3 is very similar to my EliteBook 840 G3 laptop, as both are based on the same architecture, same generation and similar motherboard. You can likely get pretty far following Rehabman's guide for the Probook/Elitebook Mojave install. See this thread and this guide.

If you can fix it easily, nice job, but don't spend too much time trying to get it to work. user badchromosome referred me to this : Just another USB dongle!

Just to add to your options :)
It really is worth it. I couldn't get my audio to work again after 10.11.4, and it was really frustrating. Having this work equally well was really fantastic and worth every penny, especially knowing if something happens to my setup, I won't ever need to try and get audio to work. It'll just work :)

I'm using the ASUS Maximus VIII HERO and it's absolutely fantastic. It is, hands down, the best motherboard I've ever owned. I can't recommend it enough. In fact, I like it so much that I've built three additional machines with it (for myself and coworkers at work).

It's relatively easy and simple to hackintosh.

In order to easily use Handoff/Continuity features, unfortunately Ethernet, wifi USB and Bluetooth USB chips won't work. In order to enable SMS forwarding and other continuity features (i.e. Universal Clipboard, unlock, etc), I'd recommend getting a Bluetooth/802.11ac PCIe card.

It's using the same Broadcom chip Apple uses in their laptops for Bluetooth and wifi, so it will work without ANY kexts or drivers or anything, it's just instant.

802.11AC Desktop Wifi Card 802.11 A/B/G/N/AC Bluetooth 4.0 OS X Yosemite 10.10+ PC/Hackintosh - Handoff and Continuity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kl5pybWV6BWMH

0% chance

BUT - you can use it once you've modified it with Clover and added all your clover config files.

BUT - I would not recommend you take your working real mac and gut it, until you're done and happy with your new install.

So - Pick up a cheap hard drive, and get your build and install working, then you'll have the real mac to build the OS installer (and to help when things go south).

Then you can add in your mac mini SSD later, install clover, copy your known working config files and extensions - and when you're satisfied its all good, wipe the other hard drive and use it for data storage - or keep it for a backup

One last thing I noticed - many people want WiFi on these small builds - if you don't want to run an ethernet cable around to it, consider a wifi / bluetooth solution with a broadcom chip - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ (despite their image - it's been verified here that it works 100% on 10.12.4 - there's a recent thread about it if you search for Fenvi)

Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H. It's 1150 from everything I've read. I tried a completely fresh install and applying this fix before even applying the initial multibeast.

Even on a fresh install I extracted the default kext from the installer I used to build my media and also made sure there were no extra kexts in any of the relevant folders (I wanted to be super sure everything was clean). In other words, I had a fresh install but also made extra sure everything was clean by going through the typical steps to clean everything out.

Anyway, at the end of the day I decided it wasn't a battle worth fighting because my local computer shop had a USB > 3.5 adapter (this one) for under $10. For the price it seemed like it made more sense to just grab that and avoid hours of messing around with my system. It also gives me piece of mind because my system is running at the bare minimum in terms of injecting and patching kexts, so I don't have that house of cards feeling that you sometimes get when you've spent days getting certain functions to work and are afraid that everything is going to break the next time you look at your computer the wrong way.

Alright so, here's the deal for you and posterity. Got the adapter. Perfect 4k@60Hz (had to enable UHD mode on TV obviously) on macOS 10.12.2 (16C68), web drivers 367.15.10.25f02 on the GTX 970.
So we're clear, I'm using Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/] with KabelDirekt High Speed HDMI Cable with ARC Ethernet (6 ft) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI8A1NW]

On winblows, it still works perfectly 4k@60hz like before (aka when I wasn't using the adapter). I just had a long gaming session @ 4k60fps no sweat.

Audio on macOS also works fine with injected Toleda's audio DSDT (didn't change anything, it's the same I installed when I was running via HDMI out, hopefully via DP I don't get random sound cracking or complete muffling as experienced via HDMI).

Unscrew the two screws from the underside of the motherboard that are used to secure the metal housing. After it's unscrewed, the whole thing should lift straight out (The stock Intel wifi card should pull out of its socket without a lot of force).

There's one more metal screw on the side of the metal housing securing the top flap in place. Unscrew that, then carefully wiggle the top flap off of the housing. This is the result: https://i.imgur.com/qxuEr1E.jpg

Next, you'll need to buy a Macbook Broadcom wifi card and an NGFF(M.2) adapter.

• Hobbypower BCM94360CS2/BCM943224PCIEBT2 Card To NGFF(M.2) Key A/E Adapter For Mac OS
  
• WiFi Bluetooth Air Port Card MacBook Air 11" A1465 13" A1466 2013 2014 2015
  
  Unscrew the large screw attaching the old Intel wifi card to the housing. Carefully pop off the two wires attaching the antenna to the card. Then remove the Intel card and put the M.2. adapter in its place. You may have to do some gentle wiggling/prying, as the stock card is secured with some adhesive.
  
  When installing the adapter, make sure of three things. 1) Align the adapter so that it's sitting at about the same height as the old card, so that the pins will correctly re-insert into the mother board. 2) Use the included plastic screw (not the original metal screw). I don't know why, but the metal screw may render the whole thing non-functional. My plastic screw was a little bit longer than the original screw, so I also used 2-3 of the original metal washers underneath the plastic screw. 3) Be careful not to overtighten and break the head off the plastic screw.
  
  Here's a picture of the adapter installed: https://i.imgur.com/1oRGP84.jpg
  
  Finally, insert the Macbook wifi card (Broadcom) into the adapter and secure it in place. Reattach the two antenna wires to the Broadcom card. It shouldn't matter which wire you attach to which terminal. I don't have a photo of this because my Broadcom card has not arrived in the mail yet.
  
  The original metal housing flap won't fit back on the housing now, as the adapter and Broadcom card are too tall. Plug the whole thing back into the motherboard, and reattach from the bottom side with the original screws.
  

Is there a functional difference between this motherboard, which is on the recommended list, and this motherboard, which isn't, aside from the fact that the latter motherboard is smaller?

I'm curious because I would like to build a mATX machine, and because the latter motherboard is in stock at a Micro Center near my house.

Also, how picky is a Hackintosh build about RAM? Do I necessarily have to use Corsair Vengeance sticks for best performance, or will something like this work just as well?

Just came in the mail. I tried it on my Macbook Pro to confirm it's native. Works like a charm! Pop it in and it shows up in the sound options. Sound quality is also decent. I don't detect any excessive noise or anything like that. Definitely worth $10 to not fuck with drivers haha.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any USB audio dongle should work, but this is the one I have.

I had run one of the audio patching scripts, but it gave me only partial audio function. There were none of the system sounds in OS X, but I could get audio out if playing a video stream in a browser window. After doing a fresh install of El Cap I decided to grab the dongle just to see what would happen--works perfectly. It's a solution for a desktop with plenty of ports and where it doesn't matter if the dongle is sticking out the back. Would be a little clunky on a laptop.

I know you said not TVs but this is what I have and it is awesome 50” Samsung MU6300. Does the 4K at 60hz.

I had to buy this display port to hdmi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54
And this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU

I needed both of these for the hackintosh to display in 4K . Do not try to buy other cables unless you are sure they support 4K.

Also you may need to tweak the settings. See this guide:
https://medium.com/@keredson/using-the-samsung-mu6300-40-4k-tv-as-a-computer-monitor-8582390bb824

Happy to help! And you're right, the github guide doesn't particularly answer your query. But I feel that it's a good place to start when you're looking to replace wifi cards. On that note, BCM94352 would be a better choice for you as it has BT4.0 (AR9280 does not).

Well, I'm actually thinking its not as the same issue happened when I was trying to get HDMI Audio to work and editting kexts. Had to do a fresh instal, all worked well, until Nvidia drivers installed then it wouldn't boot no matter what bootflag I used. Also cant boot OS X from USB anymore. Tried making new USB's and wiping the whole drive with Windows USB instal but that appears to have left enough of OS X on for the problem to persist. Using an SSD so cant use DBAN to nuke. Don't reallllly have any use for OS X in the living room (iMac steams to Apple TV for most media consumption) but it would have been nice. Annoyingly, everything went so well first couple of times around, no hitches or issues, until I got to getting a GPU working. Have also checked BIOS settings as Windows wouldn't work at first but was fine after I switched from Intel graphics.
Annnyway... yep, PCI card.. this one. Works perfectly.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007GMPZ0A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I cannot speak for THAT motherboard, but some like the ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-G will work with mPCIe cards like this. See Hackintosher layout an entire build with it.

The better option I think is still this card: Fenvi FV-T919 - you can find it at NewEgg and AliExpress, both sold by Fenvi.

I recommend using the TP-Link WDN4800. Its what I have in my system and works great for iMessage. I'm not sure about Handoff and Continuity support but as far as I know, its not supported with this particular card but for iMessage, it works great!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481114190&sr=8-1&keywords=tp-link+wdn4800+450mbps+pcie+adapter

HDMI 2.0 supports 4k @ 60Hz 4:4:4 chroma. HDMI 1.4a (which is what most HDMI ports act like in macOS) supports 4k @ 30Hz 4:4:4 chroma. /u/cman8tor likely needs an active DP -> HDMI adapter (like the Club3D CAC-1070 mentioned by /u/z0rian). Although - some reports of it working via HDMI 2.0b have been noted - however, they seem rather unexplained/unpredictable.

Also worth noting that the Pixel Clock Patch (maintained by Floris497) - which lifted that "see everything as HDMI 1.4a" behavior - hasn't been super reliable since Sierra.

-

Hopefully that helps!

-

-CorpNewt

I'd recommend this wifi card. Also, there is currently no pascal support for macOS Sierra, and there is a possibility there might not be pascal support for macOS. If you could find a good deal on a 980 that might be the best graphics card to get right now for a hackintosh.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gfHvybSN4654W

Just to follow up on this I ended up buying a TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 N900 and a iogear GBU521W6 as a quick fix but that didn't work for me either the wifi was great and the bluetooth worked but Handoff etc didn't work so I chanced it and I bought the Fenvi and that worked out the box with handoff etc the only problem I'm having now is imessage and phone calls work but it seems to only work at certain times of the day which is weird or it could be just after my hack as been on a hour or so but handing off to safari/chrome etc works everytime, so I'll look into that next but thanks for everyone's input.

BCM94360CD from eBay for about $40, and adapter from Amazon, about $20. All macOS functionality works on my Hackintosh running 10.12.6.

Edit: I know the card is sold out at that link, but other vendors offer the same card. They're all used, and I imagine taken from scrapped iMacs, but at least mine works perfectly.

Sorry about this.

But did you just use a regular BCM94360CS2 Card To NGFF(M.2) Key A/E Adapter for this?

I was looking at this one that was used on the same mobo as mine, but it looks like the screw wont line up with the cs.

Which adapter did you use? Ebay link?

Thanks!

Thanks for posting these, they're really interesting!

Regarding the Aorus z270 guide, I've been wanting to build an ITX Hackintosh (I want a small computer) but I'm not sure about WiFi. I'm a little confused, but it seems like a lot of people use a PCI-e card that supports both WiFi and Bluetooth, like this one. But that motherboard has only one PCI-e slot, which I want to put a GPU in, so would I be stuck on Ethernet? Is there any other way to get WiFi and Bluetooth working (don't care about handoff)?

Here are links to the bt/wifi card and adapter pcie card I ordered. I've used this same combo in my personal machine, before I upgraded my graphics card and lost High Sierra support, to great results as well

Very few people actually need 16 GB of RAM, but I guess that's up to you.

As for the motherboard, I would recommend getting a GA-Z77-DS3H instead. The GA-Z68AP-D3 was originally designed for Sandy Bridge processors rather than Ivy Bridge processors; though a BIOS update should fix this, the GA-Z77-DS3H may be a safer choice.

IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Se7Fub1FM2CXN


This is the one I got.... Like I said, my kernal panic started right after I installed my cooler, that may just be a coincidence..... But removing it fixed it..... Personally I love the keyboard with the numpad so no big deal for me..... Also I turned bluetooth off in preferences. The weird thing is it worked perfectly out of the box for a week or two.

Pretty happy with my build, although the only I would change is to get a wifi/bluetooth card that works with BIOS rather than the USB dongle I have now.

I use this but it may be pricey for you, but I think totally worth it (especially for upgrades, don't have to deal with drivers).

It works perfectly for me, no drivers required. Also works in Windows.

http://www.osxwifi.com/apple-broadcom-bcm94360cd-802-11-a-b-g-n-ac-bluetooth-4-0-with-adapter-for-pc-hackintosh

This should work too:
https://www.amazon.com/802-11AC-Desktop-Bluetooth-Yosemite-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U/

1. I asked the seller if its the nVidia version and the reply was "If you need Nvidia please email us after your payment and request Nvidia video and I will make sure it is included." With that said, do you think they understand what I meant, as in, is this something that can be swapped out or is the correct model you are referring to, have to be built-in/integrated? I may have mistaken his reply as adding a "video card", where he might have the nVidia version and it should be fine.
   
   
2. Booadcom Wifi card, is this the correct version? http://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-Wireless-Internet-Adapter-Netbooks/dp/B002OB0FPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369849822&sr=8-1&keywords=broadcom+wifi+card
   
   Thanks!

Chances are, any USB WiFi adapter you get will have a MediaTek (formerly Ralink) or Realtek chipset. Both of these companies publish OS X drivers, which work under Yosemite. Before you buy an adapter, check what chipset it has at [WikiDevi](http://www.wikidevi.com] and cross-reference with the drivers from MediaTek or Realtek's site.

FYI, USB WiFi adapters won't integrate with OS X's network picker, so you'll have to load a utility every time your computer boots in order to connect. Personally, that's enough to push me towards a PCIe card. I use an $15 TP-Link WN881ND that works with just a small modification to IONetworkingFamily. The commonly recommended card is the $36 TP-Link WDN4800, which is plug and play without any modifications.

Probably doesn't help, but this is reported to work great in Sierra on desktop Hackintoshes

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002S53IG8

This $8 one or this $60 one if you want better audio quality. I have both, and they both work great in Yosemite. As an aside, the Soundblaster Omni at $59 is an all-time low. Normally it's $75+.

Marking solved for now. Got this card for now based on /u/riise_bratte and /u/AfterPad suggestion. Will post how the experience is.

P.S. Cancelled the order for BT/WiFi originally ordered.

Edit: The suggestion from /u/riise_bratte & /u/AfterPad worked like magic. This card is God sent. Works without any Kexts or modification on 10.12.4. Works exactly like native WiFi/Bluetooth on Hackintosh.

Gallery: http://imgur.com/a/Z6J71

You probably mean the Broadcomm BCM94360CD card with a PCIe adapter? No you can't use that because mITX only has one PCIe slot which is already occupied by the GPU you want to use.

But the GA-Z170N-WIFI uses an half-height mPCIe card which is probably best replaced with an BCM94352 from AzureWave.

And as /u/rsoatz said M.2 is working OOB with an SSD with AHCI BUT i recently learned that NVME is als possible now with a patch.

The linked build looks very good. I would've gone with another PSU (EVGA G2) but that's also acceptable. Also you'll need to check if the M.2 SSD is NVME or AHCI so that you know if you need a patch or not.

OS X seems to be fairly picky about what type of WiFi card is used. I'd get this one. TonyMacX86 recommends it since it works perfectly with OS X right out of the box (no added kext).

Your other option is to use ethernet (assuming you've installed the correct ethernet kext).

I had a bunch of annoying popping and delays with my Z68 board's audio (Realtek 889) and decided to just go the USB audio route. This: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ worked perfectly for me, but all I care about is basic stereo audio.

MacOS has issues with outputting 60hz 4K over HDMI 2.0

The best way do this would be;

Use one of these adapters

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491940140&sr=1-1&keywords=Club3D

Then use SwitchResX to manually set the refresh rate to 60hz

Works fine.

Thanks! Yeah, I swapped out the mini adapter on my Hackintosh workstation with this. Is there any way to find out if the motherboard allows the replacement of the adapter, and if the replacement will work with the motherboard?

No worries - I can't blame you for wanting to get native sound working :)

I think this is the card I ended up using. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/

Super cheap but works well for me. And it makes future hack builds easier since I don't need to get too worried about sound.

Any updates ? Have a similar setup. Currently running on iGFX at 1080p but want to get 4k 60hz over HDMI 2.0 using a gtx 960 or 970. Using a 4K TV as a display and no dp available. If a software fix isn't available, have you tried using a dp 1.2 to hdmi 2.0 adapter like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54

edit: just finished reading the thread. Sounds like this has been suggested. Did you try it? /u/redpsychedelic

Intel Core i7-6700k 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Corsair H100i v2 Liquid CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SL2XKQ/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4-3200 Memory
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

eVGA Nvidia 980 TI SC+ ACX 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YDAYLTY/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD (OS X)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LMXBOP4/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

FenviUS 802.11AC Desktop WiFi Bluetooth Card FV-T919A (works native out of the box no drivers)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLG51U/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD (Files, Games, etc)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRE5UE/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

EVGA G2 Gold 850W Power Supply Fully-Modular ATX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOC/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LA6Y5XQ/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

LG - 27" IPS LED 4K UHD FreeSync Monitor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3BZIIC/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Logitech MX Master Mouse, Wireless
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZR3WRM/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Logitech K750 Black Mac Wireless Solar Powered Keyboard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005L38VRU/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Blue Yeti USB Microphone
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VA464S/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

GLTECK XXL Large Mouse Pad
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTQUC3Y/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

DualShock PS4 Controller White Bluetooth Game Pad :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVP76G0/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Mackie CR3 - 3" Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors (Pair)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Audio Technica M50X Professional Studio Monitor Headphones
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR86/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Easiest way is to buy a usb adapter. That way you wouldn't have to mess with drivers. Its what I used and its just plug and play.

Edit: link to usb adapter that I use
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452107278&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+sound

Firewire is super cheap too, I got mine for $18 through an Amazon seller.

I use this one: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Works great!

I greatly appreciate your time. I ended up ordering a Fenvi PCI card from Amazon. It worked straight out of the box and was $18 shipped to Colorado,USA.

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506794477&sr=1-2&keywords=hackintosh

You can certainly monkey with audio drivers and ktexts for hours to fix this, but there's also a "Gordian Knot" solution.

Buy a $6 USB Audio adapter, and never worry about audio drivers again.

[Update]: Bought this PCI-e card via amazon on Monday:

Syba Low Profile PCI-Express 1394b/1394a (2B1A) Card, TI Chipset, Extra Regular Bracket SD-PEX30009

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed tonight, booted into Win7 first. Immediately recognized and installed drivers automagically.
Then booted into Mavericks with external FW800 drive attached, it popped right up on my Mac desktop.
Also, my original external iSight cam (FW400) plugged right in and worked in iMessage perfectly.

Could not be happier with the purchase.

Hi there.

​

For PCIe half mini, I personally have an AzureWave AW-CE123H card that works well with the right Broadcom patches, although from what I see Handoff/Continuity may be in flux so you'll have to do some digging on that one to confirm. Hope this helps!

​

https://www.amazon.com/AzureWave-AW-CE123H-Bluetooth-Half-Size-PCI-Express/dp/B00HRFS1GQ

So you got the BCM94360CD with an adapter for an iMac..?

I think you are searching something like this (There are other and probably cheaper ones out there!). You can directly fit the BCM94360CD to the adapter and connect it to a PCIe slot on your MB.

I'm using The Rosewill N9003PCe N Speed card on 10.8.3 and it works perfectly.

Works perfectly for me.

My wifi/bluetooth card is the Fenvi T919A:

https://www.amazon.com/802-11AC-Desktop-Bluetooth-Yosemite-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Sorry for the delay!

For the wifi card, I used a MacBook Air BCM94360CS2. To fit it into the m.2 slot, you'll need an adapter. I purchased the BCM94360CS2/BCM943224PCIEBT2 Card To NGFF(M.2) Key A/E Adapter For Mac OS from Amazon. As for a tutorial on how to swap out the wifi card on the mobo with the apple one, I followed the tutorial shown here. Happy hackintoshing!

Thanks for the heads up!

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R21JWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Motherboard

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCLLKDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SSD

This one worked great for me.

For WiFi it really depends on what you get.

Personally I have this adaptor because it's cheap, small and works fine. I had to hunt for the OS X driver though, but I saved it to my dropbox here.

For bluetooth it's simpler. This worked right out of the box.

I'm using this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MKMJGO

on 10.13.1 and it's working OOB great with Apple Magic mouse, and 3 other BT things i have.

DACs are digital analog converters. They are basically really fancy sound cards that are good for recording. Low noise floor so you can turn them up really loud before you ever hear any hissing. This is essential for recording any outboard gear. It also will have proper outputs for studio speakers aka reference monitors. I don't record any instruments and work 100% in the box so I use a 2output for my speakers. This is what I use as a DAC to make electronic music.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Blackjack-Recording-Interface/dp/B003VZG550/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1467502404&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=onyx+blackjack

If you end up getting a higher end DAC that has firewire read below.

Firewire will be its own separate card that goes in a PCI-E slot. Its a very common port in Apple computers, its become the defacto standard for high end DACs that have more than 4 in/out

https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Profile-PCI-Express-Chipset-SD-PEX30009/dp/B002S53IG8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

This one I believe works right out of the box.

Power Supply:

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Nightjar-Completely-Acoustics-NJ520/dp/B00KHO0IG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467502606&sr=8-2&keywords=fanless+power+supply

Fanless, more than enough power for a machine like this. Costs a little more but for an audio PC silence is worth the extra money.

Thanks! I don't have a use for either at the moment. But I would probably get this combo PCIe card that is usually recommended.

Fenvi Desktop Wireless Card

Maybe if I get the new V-Moda Crossfade 2 Wireless cans hehe.

The stock wifi cards that shipped with the T420s will not work with macOS.

You need to flash the modified BIOS that will bypass Lenovo's "whitelist" check and then install an alternate wifi card that is compatible.

An inexpensive wifi card that is compatible with macOS and will just work out of the box in the T420s without any configuration is the Dell DW1510. This is probably the most popular Mini PCIe hackintosh wifi card available. This card will also work fine under Windows or Linux.

Maybe a straight firewire card would be better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-802-11n-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U?th=1

I have this card. It is perfect and works oob. I ordered mine off e-bay though. It was $45

I used to use the IOGEAR GBU521. It worked great, and woke from sleep. But it ended up just dying on me one day; for whatever reason it just stopped working. I didn't bother getting another one, I just use a USB mouse/keyboard now.

Tonymac's July Buyer's Guide also suggests this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MKMJGO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=tonymacx86com-20

Have you thought about WiFi and bluetooth?

the OEM Broadcomm BCM94360CD chip is the natural way to go - it's been used since 2013 in the iMac, and has 3 Wifi antennas and 1 Bluetooth.

Problem was, you needed the chip:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Broadcom-BCM94360CD-802-11ac-mini-Wireless-AC-Wifi-Bluetooth-4-0-Wlan-card-/172268320833?


...and the adapter (which both have come down in price, finally)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BCM94360CD-BCM94331CD-to-PCI-E-Mini-PCI-Express-X1-Adapter/351890552244?


Now there's an all-in-one solution from Fenvi

https://www.amazon.com/802-11AC-Desktop-Bluetooth-Yosemite-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U/

(despite the main image's warning about bluetooth not working in 10.12 - it does, as long as you hook up the power to a free USB 2.0 header on your motherboard).

Multiple people have confirmed here - for example --> https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/60c2sf/pcie_adapter_and_bcm94360cd_wifi_alternatives/

Thanks for the reply - before I went any deeper, I have an external USB sound card:

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450204807&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+sound+card

Which I plugged into the PC, and it didn't register that either? Is there something going on with AppleHDA maybe?

The realtek works without issue in Windows, so I know it's working.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KBBFV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I can confirm that this works with the chip as I am using it :)

Yes, kind of. You're going to need an adapter because the card uses proprietary connector for PCI-E and USB. That's a full-size mini-pcie and you may have clearance issues on your board. Pictures look like built-in wifi is a half-size board.

If you are limited to half-size this and toleda patches will enable Handoff.

H97N-Wifi. works great.. In fact works better than my Mac mini.

i7-4770 Cpu

GT-740 Graphics

https://smile.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM94360CD-BCM4360CD-Bluetooth-Huasijie/dp/B00L35XSMS/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536515104&sr=1-14&keywords=Bcm94360cd

> Fenvi FV T919

Which one did you purchase? I am looking on Amazon, and see multiple types under the same link. FYI, I am looking here:

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY

no, then you'd need something a bit more advanced like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/?tag=tonymacx86com-20 for example

Save yourself the headache and buy a USB sound card.

I use the TPLink TL-WDN4800 and works OOB since OSX 10.10 and still working fine in High Sierra (10.13.3).

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521723581&sr=8-2&keywords=tplink+pcie+wifi

However, /u/marcushe 's answer is better because you get WiFi + Bluetooth 4.0 and it's actually an Apple card. Nothing will work better than that.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/MacBook-Air-13-A1465-A1466-2013-2014-WiFi-Bluetooth-Air-Port-Card-BCM94360CS2-AP-/262144387375?txnId=2157542431016

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KHRJVXW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Working great in my ITX hackintosh. You may need a little longer WiFi cables because the card will be a little taller than the stock one. Works nativley in MacOS but you need install the bootcamp drivers in Windows. Here is the guide:

https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/100-working-12-6-pin-apple-wifi-bt-card-to-m-2-ngff-adapter-handoff-unlock-with-watch-uefi.215895/

Edit: the card shipped quickly, but the adapter took about 2 weeks so try to find a local seller.

Fenvi Desktop Wireless Card 2.4/5GHz draft 802.11n 300Mbps Desktop WLAN PCI-E Card Windows Mac OS X Hackintosh System Also Supporting Windows 7 Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ICGI9R2jRy2mj

You could always get a USB sound card - there are some very expensive ones out there but I bought this cheap one from Amazon to test and can happily confirm it works a DREAM. No drivers, no kexts, no hassle. Instantly gave me sound after trying (and failing) for days with countless different workarounds to get sound working in Mojave. Can't recommend it highly enough

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I've got the GA-H87N-WIFI and while bluetooth worked natively with the included card, WiFi did not.

Then I ordered a BCM94360CD from a Late 2013 iMac and a Mini PCI-E adapter and I've got native bluetooth and wifi with full Handoff/Continuity functionality without any other changes necessary.

Wireless Apple Keyboard and Magic Mouse work in BIOS and everything. Getting them to work in Windows has been hit and miss, but installing the Boot Camp drivers allowed me to use them seamlessly between boots at one point.

If you go the native card route, probably will need to add extra antennas to get decent WiFi performance since your motherboard will only come with two antennas. BCM94360CD has 3 WiFi and 1 bluetooth antennas, although just plugging in to the two center ports is enough for basic continuity/handoff functionality.

I'm not sure if there are any non-native wifi/bluetooth cards that Continuity will accept, but you might be able to get a Broadcom card working as long as you have Bluetooth 4.0 and use this activation tool. Intel cards are a bust.

would you recommend the GA-Z77-DS3H instead?

The Card and Adapter.

Other hardware:

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170-HD3P

CPU: i5 6600

RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz C14

GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD4670 (The HD530 is probably better, but this does away with sleep and multiple monitor issues)

I believe I need to do a whitelist patch, I'm working on my config.plist, but nothing is happening.

The simplest solution is to use a USB audio input. I Use one of these and it's very simple to use and works well.

Before you bail on Windows, make sure to patch your BIOS to get WiFi working.

This is the Wi-Fi card I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP52BNI/

The problem with booting without the flash drive is probably related to the EFI partition on your hard drive not being set up correctly. Try mounting the EFI partition with a program like Clover Configurator and confirm that everything is on the partition inside the folder entitled EFI. You've probably already seen it, but the guide here has everything you need for macOS on the T420.

A good guide to get iMessage working is available here.

Two WiFi adapters that will work out-of-the-box in the T420 and require no configuration whatsoever in macOS are the Dell DW1510 and Dell DW1515. You will need to install a modified BIOS without the WiFi whitelist to use either one of these cards. That modified BIOS is available here.

Hmm..that's the one I was considering.

What would be the recommended Mobo then?

Now, the WiFi won't work with the current card that's in it correct?

What's a good card that for sure works and is compatible? A guy in an iOS Jailbreaking Discord sent me this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP52BNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kRvtAbZ8813M7) but he only said it "should" work.

I uses this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MDLG51U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481834212&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fenvi+hackintosh&dpPl=1&dpID=41B4jkipL6L&ref=plSrch
Seems this one is spoken well of on the hackintosh boards. The Chinese thing was not an issue. Just put connect small cable into Bluetooth connector, slide card in, and connect Bluetooth cable into an open USB connector on motherboard. If you use this from the start you should not run into the issue I had needing to delete old pairings.

Here is a link to Amazon for you!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZPimzb14Y9TKP

You don't need to buy an adapter you can buy an internal wifi+bluetooth card. What I did was buy a tplink wdn4800 for wifi which is fairly cheap and works well and then a Bluetooth adapter. I believe my iMessage and FT work but I can't get airdrop. If you don't need handoff or any of those features you can grab any compatible bt adapter. Here's links for my wireless set up. Both of these work out of the box so I didn't have to install any extra kexts. If your looking for an all in one internal bt+wifi card google it I believe there's a list on tonymacx86.

http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Multi-Language-Version-Adapter-GBU521W6/dp/B007ZT2AXE/ref=sr_1_1?s=fiona-hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1462739296&sr=8-1&keywords=IOGEAR+GBU521W6+USB+Bluetooth+4.0

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462739312&sr=1-1&keywords=wdn4800

>Is it possible to use a hackintosh without Bluetooth?

It's not a requirement.

>If I do, I’d want a pcie x1,

Every Bluetooth adapter I've ever seen is a USB dongle. There are WifI/Bluetooth PCI-e combo cards, though.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MKMJGO

>a 1070

You're probably going to want to upgrade that to a compatible AMD card, at some point, if you want to use a dGPU in anything higher than High Sierra, which will lose support in less than a year. Your iGPU will suffice otherwise.

i think most motherboards are going to require a wifi card anyways. here's a very solid OS X compatible one: http://www.amazon.com/AzureWave-AW-CE123H-Bluetooth-Half-Size-PCI-Express/dp/B00HRFS1GQ

I use this one it just plugs in via USB and macOS recognizes that it has bluetooth and it has worked flawlessly for me so far. I use it to connect to apple wireless keyboard and Magic Trackpad.

I ordered this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 seems to work just fine in Yosemite. Does not seem to work at all in the bios. So there's that.

I used the Iomega BT dongle. It worked fine in my Sierra install on a different Hackintosh.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY

I bought this one IIRC:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VKON0S/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works fine.

IIRC it's also the same as the one that you listed, I'm using it with an asus rt-ac66r router...

Yes. I couldn't get the bluetooth working on the BCM943602CS card I have installed in one of my M.2 slots, so I just bought this USB adapter. I probably could have figured it out, but I just didn't want to deal with it.

Get a USB sound adapter. About $5 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1335487148&sr=8-2

397885 IOGEAR BT-4.0 USB MICRO ADAPTER 1 14.99 14.99
S/N:OU42USC2T04858

I bought mine from Micro Center.

Edit: Could buy from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407533745&sr=8-1&keywords=iogear+bluetooth

You can buy the DW1510.
You can find it on chinese Websites or on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP52BNI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mcdotechserv-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00LP52BNI&linkId=af7dde72b8c3f9f87a34dd27b4125ea7

I do believe this is an acceptable wifi adapter, it's not USB, but as I understand it choosing a USB one is part of the problem....

link

GMYLE Bluetooth 4.0 Adapter. Works like a charm! I've had no problems at all.
http://www.amazon.com/GMYLE-Bluetooth-Technology-Wireless-Broadcom/dp/B007MKMJGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407551125&sr=8-1&keywords=GMYLE+Bluetooth+4.0+Adapter

USB adaptors made by IOGEAR and GMYLE work OOB as far as you are using ordinary Bluetooth connection ( e.g. keyboard, mouse, trackpad and audio.) Unlike ones from osxwifi.com, additional work is required when you want to use Continuity functions with iOS.

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MKMJGO/

the blade stealth doesnt have a dGPU included. I have a wifi card linked in my blade stealth post, that should work okay. http://www.amazon.com/AzureWave-AW-CE123H-Bluetooth-Half-Size-PCI-Express/dp/B00HRFS1GQ. EDIT: just realized this was 14-inch, wifi card should still be removable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OB0FPI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

He's gonna need that.

This one is $10.99 but doesn't have Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-Wireless-Internet-Adapter-Netbooks/dp/B002OB0FPI/

Also works with High Sierra according to this: http://forum.osxlatitude.com/index.php?/topic/2120-inventory-of-supported-and-unsupported-wireless-cards/

If you don't need Bluetooth you could go that route.

Same here... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/

TP-Link TL-WDN4800 N900 WLAN Dual Band PCI-E Adapter (bis zu 450Mbit/s auf 2,4GHz oder 5GHz, 3 Externe Antenne, geeignet für Windows 10/8.x/Vista/7/XP) https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8yd1AbQWFH2YT


I dont use BT anyway, so thats ok

I don't think in-built wifi works on many (if any) MoBos, however this card reportedly works.

This one worked right out of the box, Mac OS even detected it during install.

Here's what I use. It's $30 Rosewill N900

That card will not work. This Rosewill card will.

The AzureWave AW-CE123H (also known as Dell DW1550) is a Mini PCIe card with AC WiFi and Bluetooth 4.0 that works with macOS.

It does require a bit of configuration, however. There's are guides here and here with the details.

Essentially a combo broadcom 4352 and 20702A3. See more here: http://www.amazon.com/AzureWave-AW-CE123H-Bluetooth-Half-Size-PCI-Express/dp/B00HRFS1GQ

This also happens when I use external USB sound adapter. This is the adapter I'm using: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8

I can't seem to find it online anymore, but it's made by Sabrent so this one would probably be very similar.

Just get T9E-Archer which use bcm4360, works oob plus includes ac standard. Handoff and Continuity features will be working with gbu521

As an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-Bcm94360cs-Bcm94360csax-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B00PDN4H9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474553802&sr=8-1&keywords=bcm4360

This is what I use with the BCM94360CD. BCM94360CD / BCM94331CD to PCI-E PCI Express x1 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017YQHEA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OYEbHzVuW9wLj

Very flimsy antennas. However you can the Fenvi T919 off of eBay and it will have the BCM94360CD, adaptor, and antenna all in one.

I did require one kext to inject bluetooth

It even says in the description "not for Hackintosh System"

Edit: Found it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SNL3RPI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496003098&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bcm94360cs2&dpPl=1&dpID=51JRNctzEvL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KHRJVXW/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GD424CMQ6YZE897JGD26&dpPl=1&dpID=61dXdkK2RhL

Need both. Should work OOTB for your z270n.

I have one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-BCM94360CS2-BCM943224PCIEBT2-Card-Adapter/dp/B01KHRJVXW) and another of the same model from a different manufacturer.

Bluetooth should work, wifi might work, but you might have issues using Continuity, Handoff, and Airdrop.

FWIW, if these don't work, I can vouch for the FV-T919A:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XL-3ybS179M1N

This one goes on sale occasionally for less than $50. Add it to camelcamelcamel.

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-802-11n-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U?th=1

It's the T919A

It does not list the chipset, nor is it listed on the Rosewill website. I would use this one if I where you > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U
I use it and so does a lot of other people, it works out of the box. It's a real apple card in an adapter.

The Broadcom BCM94360CS2 is a mini PCIe card Apple puts in their computers. You will need an adapter to be able to use it in a regular PCIe slot.

I have not yet done this myself, but earlier this month I saw this card recommended. https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Hackintosh-BCM943224PCIEBT2-bcm94360CS2-BCM943602CS/dp/B076KBBFV4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1_sspa?crid=2RZV2TE2YGEJY&keywords=bcm943602cs+hackintosh&qid=1555955213&s=gateway&sprefix=BCM943602CS%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-1-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1

Will these work?
Adapter

Wifi Card

If you don't want to get a whole new Mobo, you can just get a USB audio dongle. Sabrent makes one for cheap -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e8B3Ab2B1HSAJ/u/whoyawn

Just received my wireless card today, AzureWave AW-CE123H / 802.11ac/n/b/g + Bluetooth 4.0 / Half-Size PCI-Express MiniCard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRFS1GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6nxDDbGSRMRW9 installed the next and WiFi is running. Bluetooth and the other features aren’t working but I’m fixing it. This particular model has the GT720m but I’ve disabled it, i7 model with 8gb of ram and a 512gb Sandisk SSD.

Edit: Also, the display on this laptop sucks. Colors are washed out and just not as good. I looked up panel replacement maybe an IPS and cant find anything :-(

This is the right one, sorry. http://www.amazon.com/BCM94360CD-BCM94331CD-PCI-1X-Adapter/dp/B00OMU97ZI

Broadcom BCM943222HM8L and it works out of box. Only downside it it doesn't have bluetooth but I've never really had a use for Bluetooth on a laptop.

I always have a cheap usb stick while I solve problems like this (or get lazy and just use the stick). There are cheaper versions if you look around: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/

Everything looks compatible. One suggestion is to get this wifi card instead. It's the exact same chipset as the TP-Link TL-WDN4800 for a slightly lower price. I have it right now and it worked OOB.

I got this back in February
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00OMU97ZI/
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00K0CIJ6U/

Works natively on my hackintosh and windows 10. If you have problem with Bluetooth I was able to fix it by unplugging and plugging back in the USB connection

Sound gave me endless trouble until I just bought a <$10 USB sound card which worked out of the box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hmm.. from the listing given by OP it seems it has a mini PCIe adapter included already, but I doubt that his Z370 board has the slot. I think OP should've gotten a full-size PCIe adapter instead, like this one.

(I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I'll give it a shot, just afraid I might've just damaged the card.

Could I use this?
http://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-Wireless-Internet-Adapter-Netbooks/dp/B002OB0FPI

I have it sitting in an old HP Stream x360 I don't use... would it work?

EDIT: It says right there on the page that I can... nevermind! I guess I'll try it out

EDIT 2: It works! So now that I have WiFi working, I need to work on getting the battery indicator to work. When I boot up the laptop, it shows up as charging for a split second then disappears. And the volume buttons don't work

Hey, following up here. I've replaced the wifi m.2 with this broadcom chip and hobby power adapter and I'm failing to get it working in windows 10.

If I can't get it to work, I want to try your method. Can you confirm that this is the card you are using?

https://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM94352Z-802-11a-Bluetooth-867Mbps/dp/B0156DVQ7G

I tried all these things and none of them worked. My Mobo is an ASUS Z-97-E. I tried a clean install avoiding multibeast and still no sound devices detected.

I have read that the codec my Mobo uses according to its specs is not supported in Sierra.

I bypassed the problem by using this sound adaptor. I just plugged it in and viola it works and requires no driver's or configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am not the only one who has had to go this route and it's a darned cheap solution.