This looks great. One thing I'd recommend from a code perspective is to remove all the functions and store the mapping in a dictionary since your modifier is always the same. It should make it a bit more readable and maintainable if you ever want to move stuff around. I haven't done Python in a while so I'm guessing this won't work quite right, but something like:

Before installing ensure you have python and pip loaded

# Install evdev with 'sudo pip install evdev'<br />
# Install pyautogui with 'sudo pip install pyautogui'<br />
# Based on the concept at https://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-UGS-Pendant/<br />
# and https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/8geyru/diy_linux_macro_board/<br />
<br />
# Keypad used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TX57HR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1<br />
<br />
import os<br />
from evdev import InputDevice, categorize, ecodes<br />
import pyautogui <br />
<br />
# Event 5 is associated with the 10-key<br />
# Find this with 'cat /proc/bus/input/devices'<br />
dev = InputDevice('/dev/input/event5')<br />
# Grab the 10-key so it's input is only read by this program<br />
dev.grab()<br />
<br />
# Define actions<br />
# These keyboard shortcuts need to be enteres into your favorite<br />
# GCODE sender.  I use Universal GCODE Sender on my RPi<br />
# You can change these shortcuts to any other combination you like,<br />
# I found that the SHIFT-CTRL-ALT series was mostly unused<br />
mapping = {<br />
    # State<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP0&quot;: &quot;l&quot;, # unlock<br />
    &quot;KEY_ESC&quot;: &quot;i&quot;, # cancel       <br />
    &quot;KEY_TAB&quot;: &quot;o&quot;, # pause<br />
    &quot;KEY_EQUAL&quot;: &quot;p&quot;, # send program<br />
    &quot;KEY_DELETE&quot;: &quot;M&quot;, # connect<br />
<br />
    # XYZ<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP1&quot;: &quot;n&quot;, # home<br />
<br />
    # XY<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP2&quot;: &quot;h&quot;, # xy zero<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP9&quot;: &quot;1&quot;, # xymult10<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP7&quot;: &quot;2&quot;, # xydiv10<br />
<br />
    # X<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPSLASH&quot;: &quot;x&quot;, # reset x<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP4&quot;: &quot;a&quot;, # xjogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP6&quot;: &quot;d&quot;, # xjogpos<br />
<br />
    # Y<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPASTERISK&quot;: &quot;c&quot;, # reset y<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP5&quot;: &quot;s&quot;, # yjogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP8&quot;: &quot;w&quot;, # yjogpos<br />
    <br />
    # Z<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP3&quot;: &quot;z&quot;, # reset z<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPMINUS&quot;: &quot;r&quot;, # z jogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPPLUS&quot;: &quot;f&quot;, # z jogpos<br />
    &quot;KEY_BACKSPACE&quot;: &quot;3&quot;, # z inc<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPENTER&quot;: &quot;4&quot;, # z dec<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPDOT&quot;: &quot;v&quot;, # probe z<br />
<br />
    # Feed<br />
    &quot;KEY_LEFT&quot;: &quot;6&quot;, # dec jog rate<br />
    &quot;KEY_RIGHT&quot;: &quot;5&quot;, # inc jog rate<br />
    &quot;KEY_DOWN&quot;: &quot;y&quot;, # feed reset<br />
    &quot;KEY_END&quot;: &quot;t&quot;, # feed dec<br />
    &quot;KEY_PAGEDOWN&quot;: &quot;u&quot;, # feed inc<br />
<br />
    # Unused<br />
    &quot;KEY_HOME&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_UP&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_PAGEUP&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_INSERT&quot;: &quot;&quot; # none<br />
}<br />
<br />
def send(key):<br />
    pyautogui.hotkey('ctrl', 'alt', 'shift', key)<br />
<br />
# Start reading input from the keyboard<br />
for event in dev.read_loop():<br />
    if event.type == ecodes.EV_KEY:<br />
    key = categorize(event)<br />
    # For troubleshooting, feel free to remove<br />
    print(key.keycode)<br />
    # If a key is pressed<br />
    if key.keystate == key.key_down:<br />
        # Set keyname to the keycode<br />
        # Could have used the numerical key nodes and a switch statement<br />
        # But this is more readable<br />
        keyname = key.keycode<br />
        character = mapping[keyname]<br />
        if character:<br />
            send(character)<br />
        else:<br />
            print(&quot;unknown command: &quot;, keyname)

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  
  And here's the part list!
  
  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  :---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

Another point of reference -- I'm assuming you're using the standard 1.5kw/2.2kw spindle. I've been doing 0.9mm DOC, 1000mm/min at 12000rpm using single-flute 12mm CEL cutters in 6061. The shorter flute length is key -- I went through a pack of 17mm CEL cutters on one part, but then cut almost 10 pieces with slightly more aggressive settings using the shorter tools.

Another very important thing is to evacuate the chips in deep slots. I was mostly doing 1/4" aluminum, and I ended up using an air compressor pointed at the cut to blow out the chips reliably at the bottom. I had to use a ton of WD40 to flush out the chips, which is not economical. Standard isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) actually worked just as well, if not better since the evaporation carries away more heat.

Another thing I've been meaning to try is trochoidal milling for cutting out aluminum plates like that. Should save a lot on tool life.

One last hint I forgot -- you need a VERY STIFF machine to go this aggressively! On my little X-carve clone, the best settings I got was 0.25mm DOC, 800mm/min, 20krpm. The "chips" were basically just aluminum dust. The new machine I'm using is an old retrofitted CNC router with linear rails and servos, and actually cuts nice solid chips at these settings.

Found it:

Freud D1080N Diablo 10-Inch 80 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ38/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Z0pFxbGAPHV0Y

(I think someone else linked it below too)

Works great though. It gives a very smooth and clean finish without any fuss. In fact, I just used it last weekend on some C-Beam from Open builds.

Don't forget to always clamp your work for best results and to account for the blade curf in your measurements

I make signs (including nameplates), and stuff for a small etsy shop I have on the side. I've found that typically, harder woods machine better. I make nameplates for people out of Walnut or Maple usually. Also, I find that using a 60 degree bit for smaller lettering looks really nice.

The nameplates I make are 9in x 3in, and 3/8in thick. I also make a stand for them out of a contrasting wood (if I use maple for the nameplate, I make the stand out of walnut). The stand allows me to set the nameplate at an angle if it will be displayed on a desk.

Here's the bit I use: Amazon Link

Let me know if you have any questions!

Smoke detector might give you lots of false alarms based on the nature of how they work and that dust collection isn’t 100%.

You put a smoke detector in there and you will end up taking it out. There are however heat detectors, they can be a set temp or a rate-of-rise type and they don’t care about dust for activation. Just as an example.


Someone smarter than me could probably tell you how you could to integrate it with a raspberry pi and a relay, or maybe even a more simple method??

I was planning to just use one of those $18 dollar kits from Amazon, but yours might be a better idea it seems when reading the reviews

https://www.amazon.com/kuman-Expansion-Stepper-Heatsink-Arduino/dp/B06XHKSVTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521871324&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino++cnc

For most woods, you will want to use a 2 flute straight bit. You won't have enough sfm to use a spiral fluted endmill. I like this one.

Amana Tool 45210 Straight Plunge 1/4-Inch Diameter by 1-Inch Cutting Height by 1/4-Inch Shank Carbide Tipped Router Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJPR46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ciyOBb0K6DWDQ

I suggest these instead. Winston Moy makes some good points about using these in the added video.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcdAnUnX59s

Start with https://www.amazon.com/dp/1619602091/ to get an idea of what this wacky world of machining is about. Your local library may have a copy.
On the endmill specifics, you'll need the tool diameter, number of flutes, and the chip load (usually in inches per tooth). If you don't have data for your specific tool then look up specs for other tools with the same diameter, number of flutes, and composition (high-speed steel or carbide are most likely). Here's a good overview of calculating speeds and feeds: https://youtu.be/ip2jm_6aUyk

I think I've seen the kinds of blades you are talking about - they look like they are coated with extremely course industrial grit. That is not what icancwhatusay is talking about with an 80 tooth blade. See:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a "standard" 80-tooth blade with normal (carbide?) teeth as you would expect on a saw blade.

Fair enough, would the marketed z travel account for the bit or am I losing a few cm of total travel?

With this, it looks like I can just print a bigger housing and swap in longer rods?

here's the upgraded model

Amazon, it is a 20 AMP Leviton Switch ...

Switch

Switch Plate

I use a Freud non-ferrous blade and it cuts through aluminum extrusion with ease and leaves a very nice finish on the cut.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are also cheaper brands that probably cut almost as well.

Step 1. Download MillrightCNC app on your phone / tablet

Step 2. Purchase these bits on Amazon for dirt cheap : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Step 3. Make sure you use T6061 aluminum (it is easier to mill)

Step 4. Use lubricant while it's cutting so the aluminum doesn't melt to the bit! (I use WD40)

Here are the settings I used in the vid:

Feedrate: 770mm/min

Depth of Cut: .6mm

Spindle RPM: 17k

​

Here is a pic of the final result of what I was cutting:

https://imgur.com/kLv9LfZ

THESE are my most used bits...I use them to cut aluminum and MDF all day long. They're cheap, but stay sharp for longer than you'd expect

I use THESE for engraving...and yes, I use them in aluminum as well

For Vcarving, I use THIS I've probably ordered 3 of these in a 1 year time span but cut A LOT of MDF with it

​

In the beginning, don't buy expensive bits....it's a waste of $$$ until you get your feedrate and DOC figured out. I also highly recommend you download the millrightCNC app for your phone or tablet to figure out your feedrate / RPM / Depth of Cut / Chiploads.

I saw amazon has it today for 200 after coupon. My first thought was to come here and see if they are at least decent. Maybe entry level. I did a search and there are 4 results including this one.

​

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6K9BL3/

Cuttable area
Btw I am using the dual endstops I think that is critical for what I am doing
It makes it much easier to split up jobs or change a bit etc
HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F35WQYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the bits I used so far
They measure 3mm with my calipers

CNC is definitely not a set-it-and-forget-it type of machine. And getting toolpaths (CAM) right is tough.
Winston Moy does a good job of showing his mistakes and various problems of workholding, fixturing, and when good toolpaths go bad https://www.youtube.com/user/krayvis

There are a few things that can go wrong... in my personal experience, workholding is #1 but that depends on what shape and type of materials you are using. I have a XCarve, a Nomad 883, a Tormach mill, a Tormach CNC lathe, a Epilog laser cutter, and a couple 3D printers. They each have their own qwirks of motion controllers.
The Xcarve was by far the worse.. a web based GCode sender alone with a faulty motion controller made for many crashed workpieces and jammed endmills causing lots of chaos. A new motion controller and a home built controller fixed that. I'd suspect the newer models of Xcarve/Shapeoko are better? But my point is they aren't a laser printer.
If you are working in wood, each has their own issues - - some of the nicest and easiest cutting is with MDF type of product that doesn't have a grain and is consistent, but the dust issue needs to be managed with a vacuum system and exhaust or a dust collector like https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Air-Systems-Cyclone-Separator/dp/B002GZLCHM
There are knockoffs of "dust deputy's" for $25 and you can glue and screw them to a Home Depot pail, or you can just vacuum directly but MDF dust chokes filters and bags really quick.

Overall, with my wood and metal CNC's, I probably spend 3x the time watching them than I do designing in the computer - best case. Sometimes a couple hours designing and CAMing, and the rest of the day babysitting the machines.

You need a metal brake of some kind to do that. These parts are small enough that if you've got a vise with a wide enough throat and you used aluminum instead of steel, you could use a vise mounted brake which is an order of magnitude cheaper than a stand-alone brake.

Foraver 3020 3-axis CNC router but it’s not on the product page any more.

Kuman CNC engraver shield, Arduino and stepper motor drivers This is a clone of the Protoneer CNC shield.

And then various spare ER11 collets, end mills and upcut bits etc. Total cost, not including the controller PC I’m building to go with it, and including a second Kuman kit because it turns out connecting the stepper drivers to the spindle power releases the magic smoke, was around £400.

I have a piece of mdf with holes drilled in it and T-nuts on the back side.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-180297-Pronged-100-Pack/dp/B000H61YF2/ref=sr_1_1/180-7989447-8305100?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1468022702&sr=1-1

I printed a bunch of hold downs on my printer and use 1/4 20 bolts to hold my part.

"Spindle" is probably the wrong tactic. Try "X router motor"

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618-Electronic-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Base/dp/B00006JKXB/ref=sr_1_2

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVS-2-1-Variable-Speed-Router/dp/B00004TKHV

I use the crap out of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this one for V-carving:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALY4E2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For engraving

https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542727514&sr=1-8&keywords=cnc+engraving+bit

Also, get a 1/8 and 1/4 compression bit