Top products from r/homeassistant

We found 128 product mentions on r/homeassistant. We ranked the 513 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/homeassistant:

u/Khabi · 1 pointr/homeassistant

So my suggestions: I've linked the things I use, but they're just suggestions.

  • Lighting: Philips hue. This is because you don't want to wire up any new light switches. If you get a starter pack like this one it comes with a light switch you can place on the wall with double sided tape. You just have to teach the people in your house not to use the old switch anymore. In the case of kids rooms, the switch actually pops out of the holder and you could put it on their nightstand or whatnot so they can turn the lights on if they need to. The stand alone accent lights they have are really good as well, I have a few behind my TV that make the room pop somewhat.
  • Zwave door / window sensors. With the dongle these are more useful then you'd think. If you have these and hue bulbs you could have hall lights turn on at like 10% brightness at night so you can see if you need to get up at night. I use them for my back patio so when I take the dogs out at night the lights automatically turn on, then turn off 15 min later on their own. If you're new to Zwave remember that these sensors do not repeat the signal. In your case since you don't want wire in powered devices you would need to get some repeaters to make sure you have enough signal strength or you won't receive events.
  • Smart plugs: Weemo are good, but if you don't want to have a whole bunch of different types of devices, zwave would work just as well and it would also help with your signal strength. I actuallly use both in my setup to control things like air-purifiers and I have a few that report how much energy they use so I can automate things like when the dishwasher is running or laundry is done.
  • Thermostat: I'm not sure if I can help you with that. I use a Nest for my whole house, but sounds like your setup may be different. There are plenty of good zwave thermostats out there you could hook up to this setup tho.

u/redlotusaustin · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

My suggestion would be to install Home Assistant on one of the Raspberry Pis and buy one of the ZWave/Zigbee combo dongles, so you can connect your existing ZWave door sensors:

Notifications? Home Assistant has plenty of ways to do that:

You don't say what kind of smart switches & dimmers you have, but if they're ZWave/Zigbee, that's nice & easy. If they're cheap wifi things, you're going to have to see if there's a component for them, or if you can flash Tasmota on them.

Use the computer for the cameras, since they'll require more power and it's a good idea to separate services (you don't want your lights, camera & media all being unavailable if the PSU on the computer goes out).

My personal recommendation for the cameras is Blue Iris, even though it's a paid program & only runs on Windows. Despite those "drawbacks", it's the most full-featured & easiest to use consumer NVR available; you want to turn cameras on/off/record based on input from Home Assistant? not a problem! You want to use motion alerts from Blue Iris to trigger automations in Home Assistant? Not a problem! You want to use the camera feed for facial recognition or reading license plates? It can do that, too!

For music control, I'm a big fan of Chromecast Audios (RIP) and Google Homes, since you can create speaker groups (All Speakers, Inside Speakers, Outside Speakers, etc.) and then cast to them from any program or app that supports it. I've found that the Google Home Mini is plenty loud enough in small rooms like bathrooms & closets, and the normal Google Home has pretty decent sound for it's size. There's also the Google Home Max, if you have a large area to cover.

You can also (somewhat) control Google Homes from Home Assistant, at least the point of being able to play/pause & adjust the volume:

You could also install Linux on the computer, install Docker & and use something like ZoneMinder or Blue Cherry DVR, which both run on Linux, for the cameras, but that's putting all your eggs in one basket, and would be a little more "involved".

u/sgruby · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I moved from a Vera Edge to an Aeotec stick and haven't been happier. I'm running HA on VMWare Fusion. If you go this route, check out this article on how to get the USB stick to always reconnect when your VM restarts. My Vera served me well for 5 years (I had a Vera Lite before the Edge), but I always got nervous with their firmware updates as it was all a black box that sometimes just stopped working and I couldn't figure out why.


I find that things are more responsive with the stick directly on HA. As others have mentioned, being able to get under the hood is also a plus for me as I had no idea what Vera was doing sometimes. I'm using just about all Leviton devices and they work fine. The only device I still haven't been able to pair on HA (that worked on Vera) is an old Wayne Dalton Homelink to Z-Wave bridge. The devices that really gave me trouble that I had no problems with Vera are Leviton VRCZ4-M0Z in-wall controllers. However, after a bit of tinkering, I figured it out and wrote a blog entry about it.


If you have problems with pairing and need the stick closer to your devices, consider a USB over Cat6 extender. You plug one end into the computer, plug the stick into the other and run Cat6 between them. I used a similar product (not the Monoprice one, but one I've had for 9 years or so) and it worked fine.


As for PIN codes, they are easy to handle. With the current version of HA, you don't use the Open Z-Wave control panel, but go into the Z-Wave configuration for HA, select your lock, scroll down and look at the Node user codes. You select a code slot, enter the code (in HEX) and hit Set Usercode. It's pretty straight forward; just make sure you secure add the locks otherwise you won't be able to set the codes.


Good luck!

u/pf0101 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Thanks for all the great info! I stumbled on Will's repo when I was reading through issues on github. So I had pulled and built that one already. Turns out that using solid core wire was the fix for my rs485 issues. I'm finally up and running!


I used a 5V/3A converter ( to power the pi from the 24V AC at the thermostat (wires C and D). It powered the pi fine and ran without saying it was throttled. But would almost always timeout in the rs485 communications. I tried running my rs485 ground to a ground on the gpio, just in case. No luck there. I tried tying that ground with the ground on my power adapter too. Still no luck. I tested with the multimeter and it's giving a solid 5.01V DC from the 27.3V AC source, but I guess it must not be putting out enough amps... I plugged a normal power brick into the wall and tried again, and it all worked fine! Guess I'll need to find a better source for the 24V adapter.


Anyway, that killed my night, but I'm going to try and grab your component tomorrow and start tinkering with it. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to giving it a shot!

u/Keliam · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

I know the Aeotec Z-Stick gets a lot of love, but I wanted zigbee support as well so I went with the Nortek which has both. If you have a strictly Z-wave setup the Z-Stick is a fabulous option, but for me the Nortek has never missed a beat. I currently have 6 Zigbee door sensors, 3 Z-wave plus light switches (GE) and a Z-wave plus motion sensor (GE) running through my usb hub.

Linear HUSBZB-1

Edit: forgot that I also have two Sengled bulbs paired as well.

u/Chumkil · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Ubiquiti has free software for an NVR.

Here is the hardware I used.

Intel NUC: Model Nuc5ppyh
(There may be better ones out now, but this one works just great)
Memory: Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L
Hard Drive: Seagate 2TB Laptop HDD SATA
OS: UBUNTU 14.04 (DO NOT USE version 16, I don’t think it is supported yet, that may have changed)
Direct Amazon Links to the same hardware I got:
Keep in mind, the hardware has improved a bit since I bought my stuff, so you can get better prices or faster hardware.

u/diybrad · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I feel like openzwave is super annoying and opaque to configure, but once it works, it works.

I've wondered the same thing about the SmartThings hub (would it make zwave shit easier to deal with?) but ultimately the ST hub uses the cloud which I'm not into. Why add an extra cloud-supported link that costs money when the HASS openzwave support is currently making big improvements.

I used the breaking changes update to zwave in that update as an opportunity to switch to this fairly cheap zwave/zigbee combo stick.

Unless you need something in the new HA versions... don't update. Or make a backup of your config so you can have a 'stable' version and a 'tinkering' one.

u/greensysadmin · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Alrighty that looks like what I was thinking. I was checking on this stick from amazon:


I have read reports of some users stating that they had an easy time allowing the USB pass through from the ESXi host running the HA VM.


Thanks for the additional info about the flashing part, something I will need to consider as I would prefer to make my devices linear rather than buying all different types of Smart products.

u/___le · 1 pointr/homeassistant

A truly internet independent switch would be from devices with Z-Wave, RF, ZigBee, X11. And the more current switches would be the network connected ones from Belkin, TP-Link, etc (pretty much anything with HomeKit, Alexa logo on the box).

The best thing about Home Assistant is that is in completely platform agnostic, so you can mix and match as need. I personally prefer z-wave switches for physical light switches. Ones from GE and Linear have really good build quality. I also use GE for some mains as well. These GE are good. The 3-way switches that pair with these are also dead simple to install as well.

Beyond that, its reasonably safe to use Wifi switches as well. Most switches can be remain within your local network. You can firewall those devices from sending out. Or if you want remote control, you can also always put your home automation on a separate subnet.

u/frozendevl · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

These are the plugs (Smart Plug Compatible With Alexa, Echo, Google Home and IFTTT, FREECUBE Smart Socket Remote Control Your Home Appliances from Anywhere 16A 2 Pack same exact feature set. The power monitoring was actually closer to actual on these before calibration. The Zoozee were way off.

Here’s the guide I used. You don’t replace your original file with third party, you add the third party as an option. When flashing use third party instead of original.

u/lucashayes · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Off the shelf xbee module or such no.

Dresden sales a ZigBee module with firmware and software here but I wouldn't recommend it. Their support is awful, software is sketchy, and they've been promising updates forever with no delivery.

Honestly I've tried a bunch of stuff trying to simplify or save money and still have local control. Eventually just bought a Hue kit and wish I did that from the start. If nothing else get just a Hue hub and you'll be able to pair up your GE link bulbs and be running in minutes (especially with HASS's auto discovery).

P.S. I've got an extra I'll sale you if you're in the US ;)

u/meeseeks1985 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I had the same issue on HUSBZB stick, Never could figure out why the lights kept disconnecting. I ended up switching to Conbee stick for zigbee.


I'm not sure if the HUSBZB is having issues due to bad design or if HA implementation of zigbee protocol is having issues. If you switch to the conbee stick, you can still use the HUSBZB stick for z-wave. Conbee stick uses deconz addon to control zigbee devices and passes them into HA, deconz is available to install through hassio.


I have not had a single dropped device on the deconz stick, nor has several of my friends who have switched over.

Nice benefit from the Conbee stick; if you create a light group in deconz system, the lights all come on at the same time, dim at the same time, and change colors at the same time. When I was using the HUSBZB stick, the light changes for groups would trickle in one light at a time.

u/HtownTexans · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I have an array of motion sensors and can tell you even the same brand has different reporting times. My GE motion sensor in my closet turns the light on the minute i hit the door but the one I put in the upstairs bathroom doesnt detect my motion till im fully in the room. A lot of the delay can also be from the server side too. If you are running a pi it may take longer than on a NUC. I've noticed with my door sensors since I went to a stronger PC to run my HASS that some of my sensor that would occasionally miss a door open or close don't anymore.

for my actual recommendations:
the best motion sensor I have is the Ecolink 2.5 however it is a big unit. You aren't hiding this bad boy anywhere.

My favorite door sensor are these because I like that they are no show. However these are my ones that would occasionally miss an open or close until i upgraded my system.

u/flynnguy · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Z-Wave is a popular protocol for HA devices that creates a mesh network so that even if the furthest device can't directly see the "hub," if it can see a device that can see the hub, messages will hop from one to the other. There are a bunch of inexpensive Z-wave devices from garage door openers, switches, plugs, outlets, etc... that all work with Home Assistant. You will however need a "hub" to control them. Fortunately you can get a usb stick to act as the hub and just plug it into the computer you are running HomeAssistant on and you don't need another big device, just the usb stick. (Though you can use something like smarthings to act as the hub interface but I don't really recommend it)

The two most popular usb sticks are the Aeotec and the HUSBZB-1 (note: the HUSBZB-1 also has Zigbee, another popular protocol)

If you'd rather stay with wifi, I have seen some people take a sonoff that they've put inside a waterproof box. Though I have not tried it myself.

u/gurumitts · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Hello, I use home assistant with a Z-Stick. The following ge switch works really well. Instant updates on the hass ui. I hope to this helps.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722

u/kojaengi · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I have a couple of these - which use a somewhat uncommon CR123 battery. I was worried about having to replace them regularly but it actually ended up being OK - they've been running for a year and a half, with regular daily activation and they're still reporting strong battery life. I don't know how that's possible, but I won't complain!

u/jimmysprinkles92 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Based on this amazon listing ( it looks like the remotes are using 433mhz which is a pretty common frequency for RF remotes because it has good wall penetration and range.

There are a bunch of good tutorials online for sniffing 433 mhz codes from remote controls (i.e. using a raspberry pi and 433mhz transceiver sensors.

Another good option is the Broadlink RM Pro which is a supported component in home assistant ( which takes some of the hassle of sniffing / sending the codes out of the equation. As a bonus it also does IR transmission so it can control TVs / other devices that utilize infrared (line of sight) instead of 433mhz (longer range).

Personally, I setup the 433mhz sensors before coming across the broadlink devices so I bought the slightly cheaper RM Mini 3 which only does IR but I imagine the RM Pro is just as simple to setup with 433Mhz + IR.

u/callmejeremy · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I've learned you're pretty screwed when it xomes to ZigBee and the ST sensors.
I bought the Conbee from dresden elektronik and it works awesome - but just for lights.
And you have to use their deConz software - which actually isn't bad at all. There's a REST API as well as a website, and it integrates into Home Assistant with the automatic discovery.

However, I haven't found sensors that work with it, despite it saying it supports sensors.

u/FuzzyMistborn · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I think the monitor I linked to can handle multiple cams pretty easily. But I only have one atm so haven't tested that. Might be worth checking out. But then again, IP cams like those from Amcrest/Foscam/Hikvision would probably be cheaper. is an example of what i'm talking about.

u/mconnolly · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

‘dresden elektronik’ was the seller, but it was fulfilled by Amazon with prime shipping. Looks like it is out of stock at the moment but I ordered mine just a few days ago so I bet they’ll restock soon. Here’s the link:
dresden elektronik ConBee II The Universal Zigbee USB Gateway

u/Kirby6365 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Definitely don't try just add random amounts of cat5/6 to your antenna. That won't work.

Here's a monoprice USB extender. Not sure how good it is, but it's pretty cheap:

Do you actually have a separate Ethernet jack you can use for this? Also, not sure if wyzesense supports multiple instances of the device at once?

u/mixpix405 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I use one of these for each garage door lift, and a cheap zigbee open/close sensor to automate my garage doors based on mine and my wife's location, and time of day. Happy to share my code if you think it'd be helpful.

u/shortRound1911 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

My fav Z-Wave motion sensor is the ecolink ( Out of all my zwave motion sensors these are by far the best motion sensor I have. Only 'down side' is the detection range is sort of large for my rooms so motion is triggered from hallway when walking by.

- Fast triggering

- Very long battery life (running same batteries over a yr now)

- Has never needed tinkering with after setup, very stable and reliable


Other Z-Wave motion sensors i have, ordered by best to worst imo:

- Aeotec multisensor 6 (3x) best multi sensor option imo but burns battery fast (~1-2months) (

- Fibaro Motion Sensor (1x) works great most of the time, but every few months it freaks out and constantly triggers motion and needs to be removed and re-added to network. prob bad unit (

- Mono Price multi sensor (2x) very slow motion sensor detection, scan freq is low and afaik unconfigurable. bottom barrel option imo, do not recommend as motion sensors but do ok w/ temp / humidity / light but lite measurement is in a weird scale vs other lux sensors i have (

u/cult0cage · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Not a Deconz user but I use the Husbzb-1 stick w/ Pi-Hole addon in Hassio. Handles my zigbee and zwave devices great - if your open to alternatives that may work for you.

u/nooch14 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?


Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.

u/iggy_koopa · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I use this one , pretty happy with it overall.

edit: It's regular zwave, not zwave+, but it works really well.

u/Broadsid3 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Do you have a model switch you recommend? I was looking at these but they seem pretty pricey

u/justin_144 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Ive had two of these for many years and they’ve been perfect. They can be used with batteries or without. They’re basic thermostats and the smarts should exist inside home assistant

u/GraniteEcho · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

This is what I use for my dryer. It was the only energy monitor I could find for the high amperage.

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

u/Roygbiv856 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

These one's are really cheap and were pretty dang easy to use tuya convert on. Somebody actually posted a coupon for them not too long ago. Came out to about $3.5 a pop

u/Kronyx · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Welcome in the automation world ! You will need a USB key to be able to communicate with your Z-WAVE devices
something like this

u/difficult_brick · 1 pointr/homeassistant

just a note, UK voltage is 240v/50hz (230v + 10 for the UK/ -10 for the EU). The no neutral switches are 220v 50hz. They will burn out (I've had a bad experience) and the sellers use the voltage difference as a shield.


do I still need to get a Xiaomi hub? No but it allows you to switch to "wireless switch" mode for 2 way switches if needed.

zigbee2mqtt - do I need that? Yes or Conbee II / Raspbee, they allow HA to replace the hub.

u/aspyhackr · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 (ZW090)

It was pretty simple to set up and now that Z-Wave secure is working for OZW, I've even got my locks, which was the main thing i've got automated.

u/2_4_16_256 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

This is what I'm currently using. Much faster than the pi1+b that I was using previously and no real issues with getting it working.

u/onesole · 8 pointsr/homeassistant

GoControl CECOMINOD016164 HUSBZB-1 USB Hub.


Added this to /config/configuration.yaml


polling_interval: 60000

usb_path: /dev/ttyUSB0

network_key: "0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX"


usb_path: /dev/ttyUSB1


I must say, however, I have not tested zigbee, as I do not have any zigbee devices, but I do not see why it would not work, as it works for others, and shows up in my HA settings.

u/autohome123 · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

I personally buy from Amazon, though I haven't looked around for a cheaper price... but I've also been buying zwave switches @ $45-$50 so $24 for two shelly 1 units is extremely cheap to me.


To flash my Shelly 1 units i use this (usb mini cable, if you don't have an old one sitting around the house be sure you pick one up). you can find it under the frequently purchased with items for the Shelly 1. If you don't have any jumper wires you are going to want those too.

u/hunterstee · 3 pointsr/homeassistant

Yep, that one works. I have one of those on my fireplace and can use Google Home via Emulated Hue to turn it on/off.

Really any Z-wave relay would work. On my garage door I use this one:

Then you also need a garage door tilt sensor like one of these (I've used both with no problems, one for a mailbox and the other for the garage door):

I haven't looked to see if there's a better workaround, but since a garage door needs just a momentary pulse from the relay to run, you have to turn the relay back off, which I did with a Home Assistant script:

This means that to open or close the garage door via Alexa/Google Home though, you have to say "Alexa, turn on the garage door". Telling it to turn off won't actually close the garage door because the relay has to be turned on to cycle the door.

EDIT: This is what my setup looks like in Home Assistant:

u/tvbuttonmonkey · 1 pointr/homeassistant

There are also other zwave plugs. Attaching a link to a 40a plug. Should give you more than enough head room on the switch.

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

u/mikebdotorg · 5 pointsr/homeassistant

Z-wave is a wireless technology. You will need something that speaks that technology to control the devices. I have one of these: Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5, Z-Wave Plus USB plugged in to my pi3 running home-assistant. Works great.

u/lifeinchains · 7 pointsr/homeassistant

This is the one I have, it has both Zigbee and Z-Wave radios so it replaced my Z-stick too. Works great.

Linear HUSBZB-1

u/delti90 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I was a bit lazy and used an FTDI board:

  • VCC to VCC
  • GND to GND and GPIO0
  • TX to RX
  • RX to TX
u/traslin · 6 pointsr/homeassistant

Combo sticks that do zwave and zigbee are also an option, Linear HUSBZB-1 I've been very happy with mine.

u/PhaseFreq · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

You can get an HUSBZB-1 , which has both a zigbee and zwave antenna in it. Has been working great, for me.

I have hue lights, being controlled by it for several months now. No Hue Bridge.

Edit: as long as you get zwave or zigbee devices, you should be able to control them just fine.

u/ickyb0b · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Seems like they're in stock in amazon ?

I'm migrating from a VeraPlus to docker + z-wave stick and there's a few zigbee devices that i can't interface with. So I may end up picking one up.

u/sqweak · 1 pointr/homeassistant

There’s a combo usb stick that works in a pi and homeassistant to give you both zigbee and zwave. I have both networks (ceiling fans, smart outlets on zigbee. Wall switches on zwave) and have it working just fine.

u/rlowens · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Go for these 2 pack of 16A (instead of the 10A linked above) with Power Monitoring for $11.99 - 10% clip coupon - 50% coupon code 3A6NB97H = ~$3 per plug with tax. I bought 5 packs (10 plugs) for $30.87.

And yes the current Tuya-convert works fine on them to get them off the cloud. I'm using ESPHome.

u/jjlolo · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I'm assuming this is the one correct? Do you know if they make a dual light switch or if it would fit in one? I haven't replaced a switch yet... Does it need a gateway?

u/stevedoingwork · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I would say you probably do not NEED repeaters. It is that it helps with the health of the mesh. But, no need to buy more than you need, you buy 1, if you need more, you buy more.

I honestly don't know of a hub that does both, but i have never really looked. Xiaomi sensors require the Xiaomi hub, unless you want to use them via MQTT. The Z-wave stuff i dont even have a hub. I have THIS, plugged in to a RPI3B+. My PI is what runs Home Assistant.

So basically i have a Pi that runs HASS.IO with the Z-wave stick plugged in. I then have 4 Xiaomi hubs throughout my house. But, other than that, all i have is devices.

u/Kendrome · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I haven't looked at the Tradfri hub so I can't comment on that, hopefully someone else will chime in.

I use the HUSBZB-1 stick that has both Z-Wave and Zigbee and it is working great. I currently have around 50 z-wave and 15 zigbee devices.

As far as interference, I don't think you'll have an issue. At worst you might need a usb extension cable so you can have the usb stick a foot or more away from other 2.4ghz devices.

u/okpony · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Here is the Zwave/Zigbee combo stick. It works well with HA:

Linear HUSBZB-1 (Another seller has it a few bucks cheaper, but I linked to this one for the reviews.)

u/BinaryNexus · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Ecobee3 is a Thermostat. You can add room sensors that link up to it to help balance the temperature around the house. Is that not what you want?

Here is the stick:

u/jpb · 1 pointr/homeassistant

This USB stick supports both ZWave and Zigbee.


u/0110010001100010 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

So I guess I'm still not sure what you are actually after. Just a waterproof wifi plug? If so I'm not aware of such a thing.

That being said, what about something like this?

Or maybe this:

u/AriaTwoFive · 1 pointr/homeassistant

>I've been searching around for the right radiator thermostats to use with hassio. My idea was to get the cheapest one, connect it via WiFi and configure it via hassio. I might also add a temperature sensor since my radiators are in the corners of the rooms, so the built-in sensor won't reflect the actual room temperature. Any sug

Are you referring to the Danfoss (Living) Eco? I read here that they do not report back the temperature, though this thread is from 2017:

Just to make sure we're talking about the same devices, I found the Danfoss LC-13 Z-Wave. There is also a BlueTooth variant.


I'm ordering the SPIRIT ZIGBEE now. 45€ is quite a lot I think, but I'll get one for now, and maybe a second one later. I'm also buying this Zigbee module for the RPI:

u/darthgeckoman · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I bought an Aeotec heavy duty switch and an extra dryer power cord. I then unhooked the original cord from the dryer, wired that into the switch and then ran the new dryer wire from the switch to the dryer.


u/ceciltech · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Nope you were right the first time, you do not need the xiaomi gateway, you do need a gateway but it doesn't have to be the Xiaomi gateway.

I am using a Raspbee which supplies the the Zigbee radio and interfaces with the Raspberry Pi via the GPIO pins. You then install DeConz server on the Pi which has a web front end you can use for opening the gateway as well as some configuration.

I did this to replace my Hue hub because was tired of it's limitations. Specifically I didn't want to poll the hub to run automation in HA for the switches or motion detector. The DeConze server exposes a method for realtime notification of events via an open socket.

u/cmlaney · 12 pointsr/homeassistant

I've done it both ways, it's far easier with a USB stick. Not only that, but you eliminate a possible point of failure by removing smartthings. There's a combo zwave and zigbee usb stick on amazon that you can also connect smart bulbs to.

Edit: Added a link

u/daphatty · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

The top amazon review for the Z-stick has alternate instructions that can be leveraged as well. I've pasted them here for your convenience but if you need further assistance, go to Amazon.

note: I am not the author, just spreading the word.

Folks, here is how you disable the annoying flashing disco LED light:

  • Step 1: Get a Windows machine
  • Note: if you only have a Raspberry Pi / Linux, please read Fred's comment below. He explains how to send the command on Raspberry Pi.
  • Step 2: Download Drivers for the USB stick from the official website and follow their instructions
  • Step 3: Download CoolTerm (it is free)
  • Step 4: Plug-in the USB stick. CoolTerm should immediately recognize it as a COM-port. Mine is COM3
  • Step 5: In CoolTerm, click "Connect". Now you are connected to your USB Z-stick via Serial interface
  • Step 6: In CoolTerm menu: Go to "Connection" -> "Send String..."
  • Step 7: Pick "Hex" radio button and copy/paste the following command
    01 08 00 F2 51 01 00 05 01 51
  • Step 8: Click "Send"
    Step 9: Disco is over!
u/Jwelvaert · 3 pointsr/homeassistant

I would skip the pi and go straight to an older laptop. You’ll need a Zwave stick too. I’m using this one: Has Zwave and Zigbee radios.
Take a look at this guide for setting it up:

u/gdries · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I’m using one of these with Home Assistant using the “amcrest” component:

No cloud, no subscription and pretty cheap. The camera does need a weekly-or-so reboot to remain stable but that could just be this one, it’s 2 years old and didn’t need that before.

I also have a few UniFi G3 Flex cameras. The Amcrest seems to be the simpler solution and can record directly to SD card, no separate NVR needed.

u/supriseme · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Don't know if this counts as "good" but I put together a nodemcu and an RF receiver that transmits the codes over MQTT to my raspberry pi. NodeMCU ~$9 and RF receiver ~$7

Just noticed you said 345mhz... these receivers are made for 433mhz but you might be able to find a similar one for 345mhz?

Let me know if you want any more details.

u/errandwolfe · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I use a couple of SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Bulb (3 actually) around the house on the HUSBZB-1 controller. Initially I was very frustrated because automations would fail to change the color correctly (I was going from blue, to a standard warm yellow). What I figured out is to use RGB values for the actual colors and kelvin temperatures when trying to replicate a standard bulb. Now they work pretty much flawlessly.

u/Beanholio · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I don't know what type of communication channel you're using (Z-Wave, Zigbee, RF, etc.) but I use a simple magnetic reed sensor wired to a NodeMCU board. Wifi boards suck down electricity though so my setup has to be mains powered (batteries only last a week or two).

If you want battery powered, look into Z-Wave/Zigbee door sensors; they're more expensive but look nice and can run on battery.

u/SectarianOrigin · 1 pointr/homeassistant

That's exactly right. I've not installed Home Assistant on a NAS device before, so I don't know if there are any compatibility issues. But, this is the USB Z-Wave stick that I've seen talked about the most on here:

u/iamtpage · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Any zwave one should work, but the one I have specifically is:

GoControl Thermostat, Z-Wave, Battery-Powered, Works with Alexa

u/zwbenedict · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I don't have any links. I combined multiple sketches to get it to do what I needed. I used a NodeMCU chip (~$8 on amazon) and a cheap 5 pack of PIR sensors

From there I looked up how to connect an esp8266 to wifi, how to publish to mqtt, and how to determine if a pir sensor senses motion.

Combined all that into a working sketch. If I could pull this together, you can too!

u/maedon · 1 pointr/homeassistant

You can use a conbee zigbee-controller and the zwave stick at the same time

This one needs the software deconz on the raspberry tho

u/realestatethrow2 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I can't speak to the ST sensors per say, but I do use the Iris stuff (second generation) from Lowes (door/window sensor, motion sensor) using a Linear HUSBZB-1 USB dongle.

u/dat720 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

That's surprising... I've had this tab open up for a while deciding if I actually need it or not, says ships to Australia from but after clicking buy it says they can't ship it to Aus...

But you can still buy items from the US store, just a lot of them don't ship to Aus, the most recent item I purchased from .com was May this year.

u/Jsreb · 1 pointr/homeassistant

If I can't find a solution, I will order an HUSBZB-1 to connect with all my ST devices instead of using the ST hub.

u/JshWright · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Just because something isn't there doesn't mean it won't work, it just might not support all features.

As far as a controller goes, I would suggest:

u/theadj123 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

You're fine on the SSD, just don't go retaining tons of logs because that's what will eat your space. 2GB RAM is fine to start, but if you start packing in automations and a lot of docker containers you're probably going to need to add more. Having said that, RAM isn't exactly expensive at the low end

u/melman101 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I’ll be nice. Detects leaks in your house. Put them under the sink. Any place a leak may occur.

Send yourself a notification so you know a leak is occurring.

u/skylartaylor · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I've not tried it personally, but a person used ser2net & socat to share a USB device (in their case a z wave hub) over IP to their home assistant instance. They wrote an article about it here:

Of course, this requires another device which may be more of a pain than a USB extender.

There are also USB over Ethernet adapter which would let you run much further:

u/ElvenPath · 0 pointsr/homeassistant

I'd stay away from Xiaomi. Some of then can be hacked, some not. And I'm not sure about how much quality you can get from those that can be hacked. Just gave up one one of those ( Xiaomi Mijia 1080P - might be the same as your example) because you can only access it through their servers and replaced it with an Amcrest camera with RTSP/ ONVIF/FTP.