Top products from r/homelab

We found 408 product mentions on r/homelab. We ranked the 3,145 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/homelab:

u/ATomatoAmI · 1 pointr/homelab

Man, aren't all of us newbies?

Okay, so for a not-real rack option with high WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) generally stacked IKEA Lacks are the newbie option. You can get creative but generally mounting with screws is pretty meh, generally it's more or less organized stacking. A slightly better option in the same avenue is the newer Ikea Hejne option possibly pioneered by /u/TheGammel. Just make sure you get the deeper one.

For a DIY solution on the cheapish with casters, TBS blog did a guide on making an open rack that doesn't look terrible as the halfway point for an enclosed rack that's pretty good for only $400-ish (the open is more like 130 assuming you have neither rails nor panels). It looks better than the even-cheaper Home Server Blog one.

As far as other entry level racks go, you're probably looking at a Startech adjustable or similar, assuming you want conveniences like castors for easier maintenance and rear access. Other people ITT probably have other alternatives but it's hard to compete with the TBS DIY cost for a new rack.

This all assumes, of course, that you have a full size server somewhere, and that Craigslist scores from luck and patience aren't an option. IME there aren't a lot of 20-25u deep racks being thrown out by companies like there are the huge 42u or higher ones. If you don't mind there are two-post racks out there, along of course with weird little Ikea RAST mods for shorter networking gear (typically, one guy slapped two together for a longer server).

u/guiltykeyboard · 1 pointr/homelab

I can’t say enough good things about this server rack.

StarTech.com 4POSTRACK25U 25U Adjustable Depth Open Frame 4 Post Server Rack Cabinet - w/Casters / Levelers and Cable Management Hooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2p38BbWTEMTBZ

This is the one I have at home. It has cable management hooks. It also comes with casters and levelers which many companies (like Tripp-lite) charge extra for.

It is an open frame rack. It’s expandable and will go much deeper than Dell servers will need. Which is good for future expansion.

When I ordered my first one, the box didn’t include any of the bolts to assemble the rack or the casters or balancers. I called Amazon Business support and they told me that the rack was super heavy and that I could keep it for free and they would send me another one. I then called star tech support and they sent me a free tool kit with my missing stuff. Essentially, I got a second rack completely free because amazon business customer service is super awesome and because the heavy rack would’ve been expensive for them to ship back.

Amazon rocks.

u/warheat1990 · 19 pointsr/homelab

List:

  • ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.

  • Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.

  • Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.

  • Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.

  • Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.

  • PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!

  • Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.

    All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.
u/TheBloodEagleX · 1 pointr/homelab

Funny enough now that I'm doing a quick search to compare more, I'm finding okay ones below $300 for US. The prices seem to be overall similar. When I was looking I would often find what I wanted but at $400 up to $900+ (StarTech, Tripplite, etc) and easily found UK ones for below £250 ($335.42ish?). I was mainly looking at short depth but above 8U and only seemed to find good options abroad, like this:

UK (really like it): https://www.amazon.co.uk/19-Inch-Server-Rack-Cabinet/dp/B005TI4JDM

UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/19Power-Standing-Server-Cabinet-Tempered/dp/B010MFB5C4

UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mount-Server-Cabinet-Tempered-Glass/dp/B01MYXKLX5

US: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-RK1236BKF-Knock-Down-Cabinet-Casters/dp/B006ZLV5HA

US: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Cabinet-SR24UB/dp/B0043WF9E8

I also love these 10" rack cabinets, which would work great for NUC style cases or custom whiteboxs with mini-ITX but I can't find them anywhere in the US: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inch-Network-Cabinet-Tempered-Glass/dp/B0106RQP9G/ref=pd_sbs_147_4

u/harrynyce · 1 pointr/homelab

+1 for the VLAN advice. Do you mind if I inquire what type of router you run? I initially began tinkering with pfSense (both virtual machine and bare metal) on an ancient eMachines, single-core Sempron, 2GB RAM and a quad-port Intel gigabit NIC dropped into it (for five total), but eventually settled on a little Edgerouter-X, which was one of the better investments for my network. It handled most everything I could throw at it (excluding encrypted VPN traffic), even ran dual-WAN for a while when we had both 100/20Mbps fiber and 50/5Mbps Time Warner (Spectrum?) cable. Load-balancing became pointless, because there was such a noticeable difference for anyone who got stuck sending packets across the cable, as both latency and throughput were significantly higher, to the point where I was able to easily notice which pages were being loaded via which ISP. Swapping that to fail-over was much better, but was using the neighbor's cable package after running a 150+ foot cat5e cable through the basement and up into his adjacent apartment.

We've since moved and the fiber has been so darn reliable, even when I was working from home, it became wholly unnecessary to bother with redundant WAN. I believe we've had roughly ~30 seconds of down-time in the 2+ years I've been using this little regional fiber carrier. Our ISP reduced pricing on their internet packages last summer (took me a while to notice, unfortunately... when I first signed up it was $250/month for Gbps fiber, compared to $50 for 100Mbps) -- so we were able to finally upgrade to Gigabit fiber late last fall, for a mere fifteen dollar additional cost. Sadly, it's not symmetrical fiber, but hard to complain about 1000/50 for $65 USD. My trusty little ER-X would push near Gbps line speeds just fine, but I managed to nab an Edgerouter 12 from the early release store just over a year ago, with plans to convert the ER-X to a little managed switch for my homelab, so I could begin learning VLANs, while keeping the ER12 running the "homeprod" side of the network. I bought a used Cisco SG300-20 for $75 from someone on here as my little lab had continued to balloon with each new Craigslist "treasure" I stumbled across, so five ports wasn't going to cut it anymore. Have the switch operating in layer 3 mode, but I'm sort of stuck in the analysis paralysis planning phase. Not sure how granular I want to go. Both my VMware ESXi compute nodes (x2) each run with local storage, so my little network setup is hardly complicated, yet still almost ~half a year later after completely redoing my network, by removing the OPNsense transparent firewall in bridge mode as my edge device and tearing down the physical separation (ER-X had two subnets, one "homelab" the other "homeprod") in favor of the new ER12 upgrade, I still sit here typing to you from a mostly flat network. eth9 has its own separate subnet, in case I manage to lock myself out, or if I want to work on, or test sketchy/unknown machines, I have an extra port that's segmented off completely from the rest of the haus.

Goodness, sorry to talk your ear off -- set out to simply convey that I'm stuck in a rut and still haven't implemented VLANs. It's difficult to find a time when the network isn't in use so I can tinker and learn, but the managed switch is pretty nice. HUGE upgrade from my first attempt at a "smart" (managed) switch, this TP-Link TL-SG108E that i picked up for $33.21 in the fall of 2017, which was the first time I became aware of the fact that I was going to need/want to implement VLANs before long.

Probably should just create three VLANs to get started and see how I do from there. I've got a LOT to learn, obviously. Truly appreciate the continued comments and advice -- never enough time in the day to accomplish all my bad little projects... probably because I spent such an inordinate amount of time ranting and raving with these little Reddit diatribes. My apologies, yet again, for the barrage/wall of text. Your input has been immensely valuable.

u/fanfarecross · 5 pointsr/homelab

No one told me this when I started so I'll tell you:

I think we should specify here that "server rack" and "network rack" are built differently. If you want a rack for networking and just the 24 port switch and patch panel, you'd look at something like this. If you're wanting to eventually put a full-length server in, you'll need something like this instead the difference being that the second one is built to support the length and weight of a full server.

Keep in mind when you purchase a server you'll need to buy rails that attach to the rack for it. The server then sits in the extended rails, which slide back into the rack.

Startech makes pretty good stuff, IMO. I've seen them on here before. I have the four post rack that I linked to in the second post and it's served me well. The best thing you can do however, if you have the room, is to jump on craigslist and see if you can find an enterprise getting rid of their rack. Generally those are worth thousands new and the companies are selling them for $40, or something ridiculous like that. I didn't have access to a truck, so that's why I bought mine.

Note that with the large rack you can add networking equipment too, and can also get shelves to support things that aren't rackable.

For power you can either get a rackable UPS or power strip.

Hope this helps. Have fun.

u/benuntu · 2 pointsr/homelab
  1. I'd be looking at a Dell R720xd or something similar. Dual CPUs, 12x drive bays, 2x2.5" internal bays, and plenty of space for RAM. I would set this up with a hypervisor and freeNAS as one of the VMs. Create NFS shares for the other VMs you will create. This will enable all other VMs to have quick access to your data since it's physically on the same machine. If you're going to be backing up multiple computers running Windows you can also create SMB shares in freeNAS easily and access those from your Windows machines. Another option is to run NextCloud on a VM, which is kind of like DropBox. Works great with phones too, as it has a app for Android/Apple to sync up your pictures and other data.

  2. I would go for the Unifi AP-AC-Pro access points. They have great range, power, and speed with multiple antennas to service many wireless clients at once. You can manage these APs in a slick interface called the Unifi Controller. You can install this application on Windows or Linux and manage your wireless networks through the web interface. You can also buy a "cloud key" which basically does the same thing.

  3. CAT6 would be the best if you're looking to future proof. I'd look into at 48 port managed switch so you can segment your network into VLANs. This enables you to isolate your potentially dangerous clients, like guest wireless clients, IoT devices, and other smart devices.

  4. If you want to run cameras on your network, getting a PoE+ managed switch will enable you to power those cameras without having to use a power injector.

  5. I think at least a 24U rack would be sufficient. Don't forget a UPS or two. StarTech USA makes some pretty affordable racks.
u/kill-dash-nine · 4 pointsr/homelab

So when I originally moved in to my house last year, I set things up in a very temporary setup that became more permanent than I was hoping. I also had to bring another box home from my office when we moved locations and we no longer had a dedicated internet connection so I couldn't expose anything directly to the internet.

I've been looking at setups from everyone for a while now, getting ideas of what I needed and I finally settled on the following:

u/EnigmaticNimrod · 5 pointsr/homelab

My scheming from when last we spoke appears to be paying off.

I've taken a single Supermicro X9SCL-F board and put it into a server that I'm currently using as a super-simplified SAN - CentOS on a small SSD with a ZFS mirrored vdev pool totaling 2TB for VM storage. I've tested the Dell 0KJYD8 cards that I had lying around with some SFP+ receivers that I bought on eBay in various configurations, and everything seems to work well. It looks like it's time for me to move on to Phase 2 of my plan :)

In preparation for Hurricane Florence (I live close to the east coast) I also went ahead and splurged on new batteries for all 4 of my UPSes - two Cyberpower 1500PFCLCD's and two APC Back-UPS Pro 1500's. I think, once I get the proper cable from Amazon to tell the APC's that they have new batteries and thus report an accurate remaining time to me, I will use those in my homelab, particularly because I can purchase battery expansions for these models to get even more runtime out of them. I'll likely use the Cyberpower UPSes for mine and my partner's desktop rigs. This was a relatively expensive purchase (compared to how much I've spent on the rest of my homelab), but it's definitely going to be worth it to be able to actually trust my UPSes in case of brownouts/blackouts going forward.

With all of that said, here's everything that's currently in my homelab:

Current Hardware


  • Whitebox SAN/VM Storage
    • Supermicro X9SCL-F
    • Xeon E3-1230
    • 16GB DDR3 ECC
    • 64GB Sandisk SSD - CentOS boot drive
    • 4x1TB spinning HDD's - 2x mirrored vdevs for 2TB usable
    • Dell 0KJYD8 2x10GbE NIC
    • Services/VMs running:
      • ZFS exporting datasets for VMs on the (currently only) hypervisor
      • OPNsense VM (master) - 2x NICs from the mobo passed through to the VM (means that technically this box is airgapped, which for a SAN is okay by me)
  • Whitebox Hypervisor 01
    • Shuttle case + mobo
    • Core i5-4670
    • 32GB DDR3
    • 64GB mSATA SSD - CentOS boot drive
    • Dell 0KJYD8 2x10GbE NIC (direct connect to SAN)
    • VMs running:
      • apt-cacher-ng - apt and yum caching server for other systems
      • many more planned but not yet implemented :)
  • Whitebox NAS
    • Generic case (will soon be replaced)
    • AMD FX-8320E
    • 8GB DDR3
    • 2x16GB Sandisk flash drives - ZFS mirrored vdev for FreeNAS OS
    • 6x4TB spinning HDD - 3x mirrored vdev for 12TB usable
    • Used as a target for backups, media, etc
    • *may* eventually get a 10GbE card if I ever wind up with a 10GbE fiber switch... whenever that happens. :P

      // todo (immediate)


  • Purchase rackmount cases and accessories for existing hardware
  • Purchase more Supermicro boards and replace other hypervisor hardware with them
  • Build a bigger rack (I've been inspired by posts around here of others building their own racks, and I figure I can give it a shot too)
  • ...actually get around to playing around with various homelab services :)
u/BossFlight · 1 pointr/homelab

Cyber power UPS is great, not super enterprise grade but still great. Comes with easy to deploy OVA template for esxi to safely shutdown the machine. Also with web panel to configure shutdown parameters and calculated energy used. Tons of other stuff but those are some of my favorites. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_e-BszbWD7CF3V

u/MikeSD34 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have the RS815 and the RS214, and they're really not bad. There's an option in the configuration to favor fast or cool, which varies the fan speeds to reduce noise. I had them in a cabinet (open back, definitely not sealed) in a bedroom for a while. I did eventually go so far as to replace the fans but I wouldn't strictly say it's necessary. Heavy load you're definitely going to notice it, but even at that it's still quieter than most 1U full depth servers, and I hardly noticed it under normal load, and nice and quiet idle. I was really happy when they came out with the shallow depth RS815, much easier to find a home for it.

u/Jaimz22 · 3 pointsr/homelab

That rack you linked too at amazon is only 17 inches deep... the dell r710 has a mounting depth of about 30" if I remember correctly... so it wouldn't really fit in that rack, in fact, more than half of it would be out of the rack! A rack like that is more well suited for smaller things like switches and the like.

a rack that would work that's in that price range is something like this although it's completely open.

Also, I don't know what's so appealing about the server you posted on ebay, but you can find some that you'll find just as useful for much much
less money I don't know where you're located (other than you're in canada based on your links) but you might be able to find a used rack for much less.

now to answer your question more directly
yeah, you get a rack. then you have rails that connect to the rack and the server, that's what lets you pull servers in and out (usually) like these guys which are rails for an r710

Your rack will not come with rails. each server typically will use different rails (there are universal ones though, but they aren't as nice) sometimes your server will come with rails however! basically, the rails will clip in, or screw into the rack, then it the server will sit on, clip on, or screw onto the rails. you can see here, the rails holding up these servers and allowing you to nicely slide the servers in and out of the rack for serving or whatever

u/aerofly0610 · 4 pointsr/homelab

The Linx Derp Lab 0.5

  • Modem: Arris SB6141 with 35Mb down 5Mb up
  • Firewall/Router: Untangle installed on Zotac 323Nano with USB 3.0 to NIC added for WAN - 8GB RAM and 120GB SSD system drive
  • Core Switch: Cisco 3750G 24port switch
  • ESXi host 1: HP Proliant DL380 G6 Dual Quad core with 40GB RAM and 8x73GB RAID 5
  • ESXi host 2: HP Proliant DL380 G6 Dual Quad core with 40GB RAM and 8x73GB RAID 5
  • CentOS07-1: Whitebox embedded AMD Quad core with 4GB RAM and 60GB SSD
  • CentOS07-2: Whitebox socketed AMD Tri core with 4GB RAM and 60GB SSD
  • FreeNAS: Whitebox socketed Intel Dual core (HT) with 10GB RAM and 12 x 1 TB RAID Z2 + 3x120GB SSD cache
  • Pi2: Raspberry PI2 running raspbian
  • UPS: APC Smart-UPS 2200

    Others

  • Home office AP/Switch: TP-Link WR 1043ND flashed with DD-WRT
  • Office VPN: Arubba RAP-3WNP
  • VOIP: OBi202 with Google Voice
  • Gaming Rig: AMD FX-8350 with 16GB RAM and 2 x 500GB Samsung Evos with a dinky XFX R7-260X

    Planned purchases

  • Third ESXi host, similar hardware, and hope to get a VMUG membership
  • 2nd Cisco switch so I can do A side B Side (or 2 switches of something with easy GUI setup since I lack Cisco IOS knowledge)
  • A rack that is better than a cheap shelf (and maybe some PDUs)
  • 10Gb cards for FreeNAS and ESXi hosts (maybe white box servers)
  • Maybe a 10Gb switch so I don't have to mesh the servers
  • Pretty network cables
  • UniFi AC Pro AP , for sure one, but may add a 2nd if it doesn't cover the whole house (2 stories plus basement)
  • A real router like an EdgeRouter

    Plans for lab

  • Play with various flavors of linux and linux services (like understanding LAMP stack)
  • Host a blog to record my derps of learning linux (Hence the name)
  • Stand up a windows domain with AD (possible MS certs, but not my focus)
  • Figure out how to integrate linux with Win AD
  • Host a generic webserver with the blog, just for experience sake
  • Learn ESXi beyond my basic understanding
  • Maybe Cisco CCNA, but its not my priority
  • Kali/Hacking/Security Lab (this is my priority since I want to get my CISSP)
  • Learn mysql or just SQL in general (I have just enough understanding to be dangerous at work)
  • Learn how to use the Pi2 to automate backups or reboots, or controlled shutdowns when the UPS gets low (30 min run time currently)
  • Stand up pfSense somewhere on the lab network to learn (I tried sophos UTM and didnt like it). I have untangle paid for a year since its GUI makes setup a piece of cake. That should give me time to figure out pfSense and see if I like it better.
u/war6763 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I’ve been very happy with this case: Rosewill 4U Server Chassis/Server Case/Rackmount Case, Metal Rack Mount Computer Case support with 15 bays & 7 Fans Pre-Installed (RSV-L4500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g9S.Bb2HETDCB

Very quiet, looks good, well built, and ticks all your check boxes. Each “fan bay” can support 5 x 3.5” drives or it can be removed to fit 3 x 5.25 devices. I’ve currently filled it with 3 x 2.5” x 6 ICY DOCKs, giving me space for 18 x 2.5” drives in addition to 10 x 3.5” drives.

u/wet-hands · 1 pointr/homelab

I don't know of any tops that fit on top of that rack. Normally open frame racks aren't meant to have any top whatsoever so not many people make them AFAIK. If you want an "open frame" rack with a top, you're best off buying an enclosed rack and removing the side panels and doors. The closed rack equivalent I'd recommend from startech is RK1236BKF

u/snowcrashedx · 8 pointsr/homelab

This build is rock solid but you can obviously go newer:

  • Intel Core-i5 3470T (35W)
  • Intel DQ77KB (thin mini ITX with dual GBE and AMT)
  • Intel 7260 AC WiFi
  • 16GB Patriot 1.35V
  • 128GB Samsung 850 Evo mSATA
  • 2TB Samsung Spinpoint M9T
  • Akasa Galileo Case

    You can do just as well buying newer Zotac ZBOX or NUC. They are silent, take 2.5 HDDs, and will run just about anything you can throw at them. Check out https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0179S50UU/

    The only real downside to these mini PCs is heat. I built this 3 years ago and both the ZBOX and NUC ran way too hot. They still do run pretty hot, just a limit being in such a small enclosure

    Edit: For anyone interested in building a low profile thin-mini ITX build I highly recommended checking out more current parts like the ASUS Q170 1151 motherboard and a 35W T-Series Sky Lake or Kaby Lake processor like the 6300T/6400T/6500T/6600T/6700T. You're getting a lot of power in a small thermal envelope
u/aliensbrah · 2 pointsr/homelab

So, as I'm sure you're aware, a generic "router" you get is actually a router, firewall, switch, and AP built into one device.

pfSense is an open source router/firewall that's built on top of Linux/OpenBSD. It's pretty simple to setup as it has a nice GUI but it also supports a lot of advanced features. It basically can run on anything with a processor, memory, HDD, and a NIC. Now optimally you want something that has at least 2x GB Intel ports.

I have my pfSense currently running on a mini ITX computer with an i5-2500k as I had it laying around, but that consumes a little more power.

Some people use devices like this which are low power and fanless. Some people buy little boxes like this where you add your own RAM/HDD/SSD and it's also low power.

The only thing that sucks is that this stuff costs money. Even when you buy used gear, it's still not as cheap as buying generic stuff. You can go to Best Buy and get some crazy Nighthawk all in one device for $200-300.

With this route you're going to spend $200+ on a pfSense router/firewall, ~$30-100 on a managed switch, and $50-100 on an AP but you have much more control over your environment.

Or you could go with a Ubiquiti router/gateway/firewall for ~$100 and then add on a managed switch and AP.

Or some people buy a virtualization server and run their pfSense firewall on a VM. Decently equipped servers can be had for $200-500 when all said and done.

There's really a lot of options.

I work in an area of netsec and have my switch mirroring/SPANing all the traffic to Snort which sends all the alerts to a Splunk box. You can also run Snort directly on a pfSense box.

u/HowAboutTyrone · 1 pointr/homelab

Hey! Small world lol. Congrats on the purchase, the R710 is a really great server to start with. I mounted everything on a Startech 12U rack and I mounted the R710 with these rails. Happy homelabbing!

u/tobitobs_ · 1 pointr/homelab

Hi, fellow german here!

If you're ready to shell out some cash I can highly recommend the Startech 25U. Otherwise, as others have suggested, you could build your own or choose the Ikea Lack-rack route, tho I personally would invest in a good rack. You might also find some on eBay (Kleinanzeigen) or - if they don't need to be really deep - you can have a look at thomann.de, they also have some racks (mainly made for holding music gears but works with servers just fine!).

BTW: I think your link is wrong but great that you're looking at KNX systems, can recommend it if you want to do a lot of home automation :)

u/haggeant · 2 pointsr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This runs my r510, Synology DS 212j, hp 2530-24G, modem and AP (Average power consumption of 162Wh). An added bonus it works great with their free virtual appliance power management software and will safely shutdown my vm host in the event of an extended power outage.

Got it on sale for 137 5 months ago.

u/TechGy · 6 pointsr/homelab

Zotac makes one I like http://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-Quad-Core-Graphics-Barebones-ZBOX-CI323NANO-U/dp/B0179S50UU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1456979168&sr=8-1&keywords=zotac+ci323&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011 but it looks like they're 3-6 weeks out at the moment. Fanless and works great with CentOS 7, haven't tested them with anything else

Edit: looks like it's available on ebay now for ~$150

u/chubbysumo · 5 pointsr/homelab

good god, use a keystone based system. They are so much easier to work with. Get a keystone based patch panel like this and then get as many cat6 keystones as you need. These will also be what goes behind the wall plates. Way easier to work with, way easier to rearrange, and way easier to add later.

u/WordBoxLLC · 1 pointr/homelab

Shelving? Just find whatever floats your boat and can hold the weight.

Rack? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Rack-Enclosure-Server-Cabinet/dp/B006ZLV5HA?th=1

No experience with that one, but Startech makes pretty good racks for the price range.

Storage? Dell storage. I've only read that it's pretty open when it comes to DAS. I ran a whitebox freenas (iscsi) for an r710 (starting from ground up with the r710 again).

u/Bewgs · 2 pointsr/homelab

Well first, your 470W PSU won't be running 470W 24/7. And unless you get a really great PSU, it likely won't even be able to push a full 470W anyway, at least not for long. If you want to get a more accurate estimate, get something like this and measure the power consumption at idle, then at full load (or at whatever you expect your max load to be).

My 2950 has two 750W PSUs and my R900 has two 1500W PSUs. If they were truly hitting 750W and 1500W respectively, I'd be looking at almost $350/mo.

u/misury · 5 pointsr/homelab

I apologize, but I'm not seeing the model of the actual case housing everything. I like that it's mobile for a smaller installation. Could you share that info please? 😁

More searching... Is this it? StarTech.com 12U Open Frame Server Rack - Adjustable Depth - 4-Post Data Rack - w/ Casters/Levelers/Cable Management Hooks (4POSTRACK12U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MkfmDbWHYXAQZ

u/caiuscorvus · 2 pointsr/homelab

What he said: heavy stuff up top makes it easier to tip over.

Generally, if they are only 12-18ish inches deep and don't come with rails, then they're fine with being on two posts.

If you are still uncomfortable for whatever reason feel free to buy some 4-post shelves.

Even 2-post shelves are usually rated for 50#, some for 100#.

Edit:To secure the Yamaha receivers, I might consider unscrewing the feet and drilling some holes in a rack shelf or rails to bolt into the same. This way everything can be secure if you have to move the rack around.

Edit 2: Lastly, and I'm sure you know this, some of these receivers call for 30cm of space above for proper ventilation: they're not designed for rack mount. So I would mount some fans on the back and close any excess open slots to pull air across the top of the devices.

u/michrech · 1 pointr/homelab

Well, I only have one "gaming VM" (it has a Radeon HD 6970 and a pair of USB ports passed through, and I've assigned it four vCPU / 6GB RAM), but I'm doing a lot of the rest of your desires. This is going to be a somewhat long post, and I'm not terribly well known for being overly organized with my ramblings, so bear with me... ;)

My host is an HP Z800, and the OS is ESXi 6.0.u2 (with the free license). It has two Xeon X5677's with 32GB of DDR3 (8 4GB Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B, if that happens to matter to you at all). Because of the memory ventilation duct, I had to remove the flimsy heat spreaders. It has two fans that blow directly over both RAM banks, and I've not had any issues without the heat spreaders at all. This is the only physical PC in my house, if you don't count my rarely used laptop (it primarily gets used on the rare occasion that I travel, and on game nights to control the RPG mapping VM).

For my primary datastore (where the VMs live), I have an LSI 9260-8i, with a Mini-SAS to 4 SATA (forward) breakout cable connected to one of these, populated with four PNY CS1131 SSDs configured in a RAID5 array. Within my Windows 10 VM, I ran CrystalDiskMark (with its defaults - I'm not terribly familiar with benchmarking), and this was the result. I suspect the slow write speeds is due to 1) parity calculations and 2) write-back cache being disabled due to my not (currently) having a BBU to connect to my 9260-8i.

At any rate, onto the VM's!

VM1 - "Gaming" / primary usage - Windows 10. As previously noted, it has four vCPUs assigned, 6GB RAM, and 256GB vHDD on the afore mentioned primary datastore. It has a Radeon HD 6970 and a pair of the host USB ports attached via 'pcipassthrough'. As the host lives in an electronics / networking closet in my spare bedroom, I use some Cables2Go RapidRun digital cabling (the specific part numbers I used are now discontinued) to bring the HDMI signal from that space to a spot on one of my living room walls, where the monitor is mounted. I used a cheap USB<->Cat5 extender to bring a USB port out to a cheap USB hub, to which is connected the Logitech universal receiver for my keyboard / mouse, and a crappy USB 'sound card' (which is only used for its MIC input). Before you ask, no, I don't notice any input / display lag with the 50' cabling between my keyboard / monitor / mouse.

VM2 - Media server, "nas" - Windows Home Server 2011. This VM also has four vCPUs assigned, along with 6GB of RAM, but only a 160GB HDD (the minimum WHS2011 required for installation). This VM has the onboard Intel six port SAS/SATA controller attached, along with a USB3 PCIe controller. I have an 4-in-1 IcyDock (different model to the one I linked previously, but very similar build), in which live three Samsung / Seagate 2TB 2.5" HDDs. These are controlled / presented to the OS by StableBit's DrivePool. All of my media / other data are stored on this pool. As this VM also handles my media services, it has Plex Media Server, Sonarr, and sabnzbd installed. All downloads / unpacks / media rename / etc happens on the DrivePool, since I don't care how long those operations take (I'm the only one that accesses my media).

VM3 - RPG mapping - Windows 7 - This VM is very basic : two vCPUs and 2GB RAM. It has a Radeon HD 7470 attached, which is connected via a 50' RapidRun analog (yellow, also discontinued) VGA cable. This VM is only powered on / used when I have an RPG group at my house.

All three VMs have Chrome Remote Desktop installed so I can access them from anywhere. The media / RPG VM's are exclusively controlled via this method.

I have a Nexus Player installed at both of my TVs. Each has the Plex app installed so I can watch whatever is on the server.

If you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask. :)

u/Aurailious · 1 pointr/homelab

Here is the specific one I bought.

Buying locally from CL or something can be more advantages as you don't have to assemble it or try to manage shipping. Its probably easier to get a 42U rack that way. And likely the cost will be less.

I can report that these ones are pretty solid and work well. They don't have much in the way of cable management and are fairly bare and open. But they are new, are solid, and hold up well.

u/Chrisv006 · 1 pointr/homelab

This is correct.
Ready to pull the trigger on this setup:

NIC

cable

switch

Seems like everything should play nice together, with the added benefit of attaching my main desktop to the switch with 10g along with the server.

Opinions?

u/chrislwade · 5 pointsr/homelab

While almost all rackmount stuff is 19” wide, it’s the depth and weight you have to worry about. The r610 is almost 30” deep with cables and I think the HP isn’t much shorter.

The rack you linked to is designed for network gear and even some audio equipment. What you want is a 4-post rack like this 12u - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS.

You can use a 2-post rack, but you’ll need to get the static rails instead of the ready rails. Which is your next question, rackmount servers normally need rails to be mounted to the rack and then the server sits down into them and are secured at the front of the rails with the rack ears that are on the rails and the server. The r610 uses these - Dell P223J 1U Ready Rails for PowerEdge R610 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00686MBE8.

There are some smaller racks, just make sure you’re getting one deep enough or adjustable enough to account for your servers and cables.

u/gamesta400 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I have a TS440 and 2 TS140's, but the TS440 is my favorite by far. It does not come with caddies but I got mine here for $15: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T4SZ720?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I also got this 4 port NIC for it: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0NX3G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 and it has worked great.

Only negative with the TS440 is that it is louder than my TS140's, but still a manageable level. And I love having the hot swappable drives. Maybe someone can chime in about running ESXi on it, I have only used Hyper-V on mine.

u/SystemWhisperer · 2 pointsr/homelab

I think it depends on whether OP needs all 12U of that rack, or is willing to trade some density for lower cost.

"Generic rails" tend to be more like 0U shelves. I bought some of these and I like them, but there is a density cost. The piece that holds the server from beneath is thicker than the clearance between most 1U or 2U servers, so if you have two of these right next each other, the upper one will have to be fudged up to leave room for the server below. Because of standard rack hole spacing, you can only do this 1-2 times before you have to leave a blank space above. That works fine for me, but needs vary.

AFAICT, all rack-mount server models have different means of securing to their intended rails, not to mention side-to-side spacing. I don't think there's a way to make a set of generic rails that supports only from the side instead of supporting from below.

u/ichspielemayonnaise · 1 pointr/homelab

I opted for a Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM with 2 10gb sfp+ uplinks and a pair of Mellanox cards off eBay that worked right out of the box. Its fanless and super low power which I love and the increased transfer speeds between my desktop and FreeNAS is a welcome addition.

u/_id10terror_ · 21 pointsr/homelab
  1. Toss the Zips and use Velcro, so you can add\remove cables as time passes. (https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6).
  2. Mount Chassis under the desk with something like this (https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Adjustable-Computer-Mounts-Holder/dp/B079RZBK1Y)
  3. Mount UPS to wall with something like this (https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Computer-Adjustable-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B07P83J1H8).
  4. Wall mount a shelf for the network gear. A plus side is it is rack-mountable so if you ever go that direction it is still useful to you (https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Circulation-Cantilever-Universal-PLRSTN14U/dp/B01HTG4WHY). That Pyle one is 10" deep and a great value for the money, but they have many options and depths on Amazon, just search for "Rack Mount Shelf". Use the vents in the rack with some velcro to tie down the gear and cables neatly.
  5. Whenever possible, route low and high voltage separately. Use either your typical cable raceways, or something like these adjustable cable straps that can be mounted by screws or adhesive. (https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Self-Adhesive-mounts-Optional-management/dp/B07P1RNP5B)

    Last piece of advice.... Let your EdgeRouter breathe... don't stack stuff on top of the poor thing. :)
u/wolffstarr · 5 pointsr/homelab

Unless you're planning to add a metric ton of stuff into that rack, I would humbly suggest you get thee some Rail Shelves at least for the ESXi server; if it's supporting the HP, it deserves to have some more support than the rack ears it comes with.

Note they do eat a fraction of a rack unit because they're bumping up the server, but you can do 3 or 4 and still be down less than a single RU.

Sorry, it's a really nice setup and very cleanly set up, but the lack of backside support is making my skin crawl for some reason. :)

u/BlacklistedUser · 2 pointsr/homelab

You should look at getting a battery back up, most of those have coax surge protector and some even provide ethernet surge protection as well . Something like this https://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU is probably a little overkill for power but will provide you with good surge protection all around (also look at other brands this is just a good example).

They also have protection policies, so if what you have connected still gets shwacked they will pay up to a certain amount to replace it.

u/Milehighwalrus · 2 pointsr/homelab

I bought this one off Amazon brand new for 250 shipped. StarTech 25U Adjustable Depth Open Frame 4 Post Server Rack.

I live in a area that doesn't have a lot of old server equipments so I had to get this one. It's great since it's adjustable depth. And casters are awesome addition as well

u/__PRIME · 1 pointr/homelab

That looks a lot like the rack I've been looking at: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Casters-Levelers-Management/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=startech+rack&qid=1569960952&sr=8-3

Thanks for the input. Your right: I am overthinking it. Other replies, too, have reassured me that there's more flexibility available than I was thinking. I feel much better about firing off the orders now!

u/KansasMike · 4 pointsr/homelab

I would run all cabled directly off to either the left or right side, bundle them and then run them over the top and down the other side.

Consider getting an arm or something else to avoid messing the whole thing up when you pull out the server on the rails. You can kind of wing it without one though.

Velcro strips comes in real handy for cable management. Having 100 of those hanging off the sides makes it really easy to gather up the cables and redo them when adding equipment. They don't look quite as nice as plastic strips, but it is just so much more enjoyable to work with for projects like this.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6
Similar ones can be bought on AliExpress for peanuts if you can wait a month.

From the looks of it pulling the server out on the rails will disconnect the power cords. I would mount an extension socket next to it with an on/off switch that lights up.

u/EncapsulatingManatee · 1 pointr/homelab

I've got a StarTech.com 12U open frame rack. On the one hand I don't have to worry about an enclosed rack getting super hot, but on the other hand I have to manage the airflow in that room well so the hot air doesn't pool near the rack.

u/wisconsin_born · 3 pointsr/homelab

Does your desktop have an efficient power supply? Most of the efficient desktop PSUs employ active PFC. If yours does, you will want a UPS that provides pure sine wave power in case of an outage.

The APC UPSs on sale do stepped sine wave approximation. It might work for efficient PSUs, I don't know. I do know that CyberPower has pure sine wave PSUs that eliminate the question, albeit at a higher price. For example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W

u/Makkersjnr · 1 pointr/homelab

I was tempted to use metal frame for the build but i wouldnt have a clue when it comes to metal work but if you can do it, go for it! or get a good kit: My mate just bought this :https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Casters-Levelers-Management/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511427208&sr=8-1&keywords=startech+12u

Its expensive but super adjustable.

u/mmo-fiend · 3 pointsr/homelab

Server before a recent upgrade

Server before a recent upgrade

My old system was rather simple and straight forward. It was a dual Xeon workstation motherboard (standard ATX) installed in a Rosewill 4U Server Chassis. The center rail perfectly fit the radiators of two Corsair H55s. The bracket works extremely well for the LGA1366.

Server after a hasty upgrade (not finished)

Center Rail

Back

Front

I upgraded my system about two weeks ago. Not finished yet - but it's functional. Since the new motherboard was an oversized EATX (13.2 x 13 inches) - I had to modify the case to get everything to fit. I noticed with 18 sticks of memory, the heat was a bit higher than the previous build. So, I have the radiators sandwiched with fans on both sides. This increased the airflow significantly and the fans are 120mm, so rather quiet.

However, with the fan sandwich, the center rail needed to be pushed back 1.5 inches. In the photo, I only pushed the rail back one inch so far. One of the sandwiches fit (the rear one), but you will notice that the one closest to camera isn't yet fitting. So, I need to pull everything out and drill new holes a half inch closer to the front.

The other thing I didn't realize is that when mounting standard ATX power supplies with an EATX motherboard, the chassis will need to have the power supply suspended above the motherboard and not on the side. You will see that the motherboard takes up a portion of the area where the power supply should go. So, I cut a hole above the i/o plate and moved the power supply mounting bracket that came with the case. Surprisingly, it holds extremely well and has nearly 1 inch of clearance between the power supply and one of the CPU water blocks and memory.

I also plan on 3d printing a shroud that will channel the air from the center rail out into the giant hole in the back and adding two 90mm fans as a proper exhaust.

u/the_super_tech · 2 pointsr/homelab

NavePoint Adjustable Rack Mount Server Shelf Shelves Rail Rails 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_10vRzbR1DB9JA

Shelves are your best friend :)

u/namodev · 1 pointr/homelab

If you don't mind going the pre-owned (read: Used) route, the Juniper EX2200 is quite a good option. This one in particular comes with 48 ports and full manageability (IIRC L2+?) for around $100 - and did I mention that it's a real enterprise-grade switch too?

But if you'd prefer something new and more easily manageable, either go with netgear stuff, or this TP-Link managed switch , or the HP 1920-8G . They're all solid options :)

u/novatechies · 1 pointr/homelab

WHAT YOU NEED


u/vvelox · 7 pointsr/homelab

For 80 more you can get a way nicer 4 post StarTech one with free shipping from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS

Not the exact model I have under my desk, but I have a similar one from them and love it.

u/Opitrice · 3 pointsr/homelab

Consider this one:
ZOTAC ZBOX C Series Passive Cooling Mini PC, Intel N3150 Quad-Core CPU, Intel HD Graphics Barebones System (ZBOX-CI323NANO-U) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179S50UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UfdvybRQJY4Y8

Two LAN port, wifi, fanless(no noise)
Buy cheap 32go ssd with cheap 8go ram and you're good to go !

Oh and perfectly compatible with pfsense ;)

u/Gahd · 3 pointsr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

These last forever for $10. You can cut them shorter for small bunches of cables or keep them long, but they are great for keeping tiny bunches in line and reusable when you make changes. I've found the easiest way to add cables is to use a new zip tie next to the old then remove the old and go down the line.

(EDIT: Also, it looks great.)

u/oddworld19 · 2 pointsr/homelab

A couple grand???

Why not just use this? http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W

I have three of these. They're amazing. They work fine with the business / agent software.

u/wrtcdevrydy · 1 pointr/homelab

> are there any potentially slightly older and used RAID controller that can be had for cheap (like <$50), that will let me attach 5, maybe 6 drives?

Yes, but normally RAID requires empty drives so you'd have to use something like drivepool instead if you want to keep your data intact.

> Ive come across the Dell PERC H700

H700 isn't a bad card but if you can do an H300, you can flash it into IT mode (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-H310-IT-mode-Adapter-8-Port-6Gb-s-SAS-SATA-Raid-Card-9211-8i-P20-IT/192642240732?hash=item2cda5f50dc:g:EE0AAOSwNgNbiBGM:rk:1:pf:0) and just use Mini-SAS to SATA cables (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC). Each cable will allow you plug in 4 drives.

u/spx404 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I normally get Cyberpower PFC1500s. I have been super happy with them.

They go on sale all the time on Newegg and Amazon. You get get them for less than $180 when they are on sale.

u/_kroy · 4 pointsr/homelab

That 9211 is like the gold standard. You shouldn’t have to flash to IT mode, but you do want to upgrade the firmware (which accomplishes the same thing). The real ones are trivial to flash, versus like an H200, so I wouldn’t sweat that.

If you want the “modern” version, the LSI-9207-8i has the most recent chipset.

You can get them new, and quite a bit cheaper, on eBay .

Then you just need a pair of breakout cables

u/CSTutor · 1 pointr/homelab

Well I can recommend this VLAN aware switch

I'd recommend using pfSense as router and firewall. it can be virtualized if you need.

I'd avoid expansion unless you actually need it.

First thing you need to do in my opinion is choose a hypervisor and start virtualization (in my case, I like Proxmox).

Second thing you should do in my opinion is separate storage from Proxmox so get a second server for storage and use like NFS or something to export to Proxmox.

From there, just figure out what you need or want and set up a VM for it.

u/Soaringswine · 1 pointr/homelab

Intel N3150

https://smile.amazon.com/ZOTAC-Quad-Core-Graphics-Barebones-ZBOX-CI323NANO-U/dp/B0179S50UU/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&sa-no-redirect=1&th=1

need to manually update the Realtek NIC driver (https://forum.pfsense.org/index.php?topic=103841.75) if you want throughput above 200 Mb/s without watchdog timeouts and ignore the bitching about the SD card reader on boot but it supports AES-NI and is cheap and works great.

u/drashna · 1 pointr/homelab

I have a Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD UPS. It shows the total pull on the UPS, but not per outlet. It is nice to see though.


But yeah, it's not exactly "cheap", but then again, it's not rack mounted, so it's not obscenely expensive either.

Also, totally worth having. Especially as I purchased mine after having a friend drive into the power poll outside my apartment and damaging some hardware because of it.

u/gigglestick · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm running ESXi 6 with VSAN just fine with three TS140s. Though I'm playing with Nutanix CE right now.

The only complaint I have about the TS140 is its limitation of 32 GB RAM, and maybe that the XEON E3-1225 v3 CPU doesn't support hyperthreading, but I don't have a huge need for processing power. It's a rather large case footprint for only 32 GB RAM, but I'm happy with them since I have shelving in the utility room that gets them up out of the way.

I added a 4-port 1-gig NIC and a 2-port 2.5 inch hot-swap bay for the SSDs, booting from some SanDisk low-profile USB drives, and it's working very well for me so far. I'll be adding some Mellanox 10 GbE cards with DAC cables soon, but VSAN is working fine at 1 gig at the moment.

u/hotas_galaxy · 2 pointsr/homelab

You most definitely can. You would be supporting the devs, which is always a good thing. However, you can build a more powerful box yourself for cheaper. Use these parts:

Zotac CI323 (Intel 3150 Quad Core @ 1.6GHz) - $150

Crucial DDR3L (1x4GB - system supports up to 8GB - don't need that much for pfSense, but knock yourself out). - $18.

ADATA SSD 32GB (way overkill for pfSense, if you can find a smaller one, go for it) - $28.


Total is ~$200. There are no fans. No moving parts. Pulls probably 10W. I'm using a little Chinese box with the same processor, 4GB RAM, and a small m.2 SATA. Haven't had a single hardware issue. That setup really is perfect for pfSense.



https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-Quad-Core-Graphics-Barebones-ZBOX-CI323NANO-U/dp/B0179S50UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468022008&sr=8-1&keywords=ci323

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LDLV6S/ref=twister_B00H8JVIKM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-Premier-Upgrade-Solution-ASP600S3-32GM-C/dp/B009SKB5HA/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468022431&sr=1-3&keywords=ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027456011

u/MacNugget · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have a 28MP and I swapped the fans for Noctua ones which helped a lot. It was loud enough to hear through a closet door before I swapped them. I'm super-sensitive to fan noise, though. I'm sure a lot of people would be totally satisfied with the original fans.

u/mke5271 · 1 pointr/homelab

Not too worried about which type of RAID, long as it supports the drives at full throughput. The 9211-8i looks pretty nice.

Would this work as a breakout cable for the drives?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BPLYJC

u/AirsoftinAction · 1 pointr/homelab

Depending on budget, you could take a rack like this, pick up an Ikea table/counter top. Bolt the counter top to the top of the rack to create your idea. Then you can just look into getting some plywood or whatever to attach to the side to hide everything like in your design.

u/NessInOnett · 0 pointsr/homelab

As others have said, go with noctua. This one is your best bet. They're kinda pricey but your ears will thank you https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Make sure you know if you need 12v or 5v (probably 12) .. they make both

u/14nicholasse · 2 pointsr/homelab

So basically, you can't pass through some of the drives in the controller, it's all or nothing with PCI passthrough

what i did for my esxi+freenas+r710 setup is:

  1. Install ESXI onto a USB thumbdrive I plugged into the internal USB slot. (booted the installer from another usb drive)
  2. Buy small (only needs to be large enough to fit FreeNAS VM Image ) SSD and put it in one of these
  3. Set my SSD to be the primary ESXI datastore, and then install the FreeNAS VM onto that SSD datastore.
  4. Pass through the entire drive controller to this FreeNAS VM
  5. Create volume using all of the drives in the drive bay, and then use FreeNAS normally :)
  6. I also mount a FreeNAS share back in ESXI so I can store larger VMs on FreeNAS (they just won't boot unless freenas is running)

    If you wanted to use those drives in your bay, you'd have to get a second controller, and only pass one of the controllers over to freenas
u/crossbowman5 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I used these in my USG-PRO to great success.

u/IT_dude_101010 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I got four of these HP branded ones from the same seller, they have been working great for over a year. Also, be sure to ask for low profile brackets, if you need them.

And bonus, they are slightly cheaper at $50.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0NX3G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

u/TheBobWiley · 3 pointsr/homelab

The rosewill rails are hard to come by, its easier to just use these:

http://smile.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458500710&sr=8-3&keywords=adjustable+server+rails

They like to prevent stuff from perfectly fitting in the 1U beneath them (they stick down 1-2mm into the 1U below them), so if your rack is packed, they may not fit.

u/Deranged40 · 6 pointsr/homelab

Kill-a-watt is a popular device that you can plug into your wall, then plug something into it. It will monitor and display your actual usage.

There are other competitors to this product as well. In addition to this, it's always a good idea to have your PC or homelab behind a UPS. Most, if not all UPSs made nowadays will allow you to connect it to your PC or server via USB and will also let you access the actual power draw via a window on your computer.

Your whole house is already being monitored in a way that you can view. There's a power meter outside your house (unsure where this might be if you're in an apartment) and it will read total Watts used. Usually in Kilowatthours.

u/Philarious_1 · 1 pointr/homelab

Check out this StarTech rack. I purchased it about 6 months ago and am really happy with it. If you just have half sized cases, the adjustable depth gives you a small footprint now (mines in my office), and the ability to expand it should you pick up a full size case (and having to get a new rack).

StarTech.com 25U Adjustable Depth Open Frame 4 Post Server Rack Cabinet with Casters/Levelers and Cable Management Hooks 4POSTRACK25U Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kB1dAbJ410C9K

u/ziggyo7 · 1 pointr/homelab

WD Reds, currently 1 4TB and 2 3TB installed, 3 more 4TB I haven't moved over yet until I can get it working.

​

Yes they worked previously on this card when the card was installed in an old 2500K desktop. Prior to this switch they were in a Rackable 24 bay chasis connected with external SAS cable to a SAS9200-8e H3-2560-02G.

​

Had to purchase new mini SAS cables for this as I didnt have any https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFEVQ4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

TLDR only new components to this setup are the R720 and the mini SAS cables, everything else was previously working on another build.

u/rcski77 · 5 pointsr/homelab

My girlfriend bought me this one for Christmas and it's worked great so far. Really sturdy and adjustable to be deep enough for my Dell R710 without an issue.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK12U/dp/B00P1RJ9LS

Edit: There's also a 25U version of this rack for $248 w/ free shipping

u/themassicator · 2 pointsr/homelab

>One of these.

>One of these.

>And a regular 2.5" SATA SSD. I'm assuming you don't actually use an optical drive.

Taken from here. Credit to u/Dstanding.

If you already have the DVD drive installed you won't need to buy the cable. I just bought 2 of these, and they work perfectly in my R510 and R710.

u/x_radeon · 1 pointr/homelab

Haha. Yeah it's a nice box...

They come with the rack and then you just attach them where you want them. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK25U/dp/B00O6GNLQE

u/wannabesq · 3 pointsr/homelab

This one is a useful option. There are plenty of variants, some with hot swap bays. I use it with a SSI EEB board, and it fits it all just fine.

Also, most rack servers have removable ears, so they can easily work outside of a rack. And even with the ears, they stand up just fine in my experience.

u/mcracer · 1 pointr/homelab

Here was my solution, which is working great:

Controller

Cable

u/guardianfx · 1 pointr/homelab

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I have this on my holiday wishlist, but saw this today and thought I could save myself a few bucks.

u/dudenell · 1 pointr/homelab

>FreeNAS its recommended that RAIDz2 follow 4,6,8,10,12 drives, and RAIDz3 follows 7,9,11 drives.

Thanks didn't know that.

>proper HBA card/onboard SAS in IT mode

Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QJZLCA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I guess my real question is, could I use that card in the R320 and connect it with a Lenovo DAS?

u/Rilnac · 1 pointr/homelab

I looked closer at our chassis setup and it is 4x 5 slot boards, so I'm not actually sure what protocol they run because SAS breakouts should max at 4. We're definitely proprietary compared to the options I am seeing online.

Closest equivalent commercially available part would be something like https://www.amazon.com/Mini-SAS-SFF-8087-Inch-Frame/dp/B00M36C2KK which effectively breaks out an internal sas port to 4x sas/sata interfaces. Looking online the DL320 should have an unused onboard port.

Alternatively https://www.amazon.com/Aplicata-Quad-NVMe-PCIe-Adapter/dp/B01MTU75X4 or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-The-adapter-card-PCI-E-16X-TO-4P-NVMe-SSD-Support-RAIDO-PCI-E-16X/32951136605.html will let you run NVME directly off the PCIE slot assuming there isn't some other expansion already there.

So in a dl320 you could probably do one of each so long as you have physical space left and you don't run out of power.

Forgot one other option, which assumes OP can find power and mounting points on their own. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC

u/DellR610 · 1 pointr/homelab

Just make sure you have enough space for future growth lol, it's addictive. Little more expensive with reviews:
https://amzn.com/B00P1RJ9LS

The one you linked looks like it uses the shelves or rails+server to add rigidity since it's missing the two cross-bars... not personally crazy about that.

u/brendenc00k · 2 pointsr/homelab

I recently purchased CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W for $80 less than what it's going for now during Black Friday, but it's been great. I have my home lab plugged into it. Basically a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter/HP 24 Port Switch/HP Proliant DL370 G6 and can get about 19mins of uptime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For one of my remote offices I installed this Cyberpower OR1500PFCRT2U which is a 2U. Had to buy an additional network card which wasn't cheap.

u/concussion962 · 4 pointsr/homelab

I have the "Executive" model personally. The servers are on the bottom shelf (but I need to do something to make getting into the r510 easier since its the bottom of the two), the printer on the top, and the UPS sitting on the side in the closet in my office. Honestly, the loudest thing in the closet is a tossup between the UPS and the printer...

u/willtr03 · 1 pointr/homelab

I was just recently/currently in the same boat. I purchased a used r710 to make into a plex server. I bought a H310 on ebay (paid a premium and bought a preflashed IT version so I wouldn't have to mess around doing it myself). I guess I don't have any real reason I bought the H310 over the H200, from what I read they both will work as long as they are flashed into IT mode. I just had to buy new cables and install them. I have only tried it with a 1 TB hard drive in unraid and it seemed to work great. Ultimately I went with unraid simply because I wanted to be able to add drives easily as my library grew and have a parity drive- both of which unraid does.

u/cdhill17 · 3 pointsr/homelab

Yeah the easiest way is to replace the dvd drive with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B004XIU4T2

u/mashutetra · 1 pointr/homelab

/u/stilettoblade is correct. Neither the R610, nor the R710 would fit in this rack.

I measured the spare rails I have for an R610ii, the mount size is listed below. Too lazy to pull out one of the R710's to check those rails, but the R610ii physical server is 2in longer than the R710; so I'd think the rail mount depth would be similar if not exactly the same.

R610ii rails:

p/n: R144J

27.25in - 30.25in

These are the two racks I've found; similar in Usize that would fit these servers. I'm also looking to down grade my rack size, so if anyone has any suggestions for a 12-18U open rack on casters that is at least 27in deep; lets hear it.

*edit forgot the links. ha

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9DQAMS/

u/korpo53 · 1 pointr/homelab

On the games thing, I don't mean you should move them to avoid loading screens, I just mean that there's no reason they should live on a share over SMB on a BTRFS array on a VM running on your own system. That's a ton of complexity for like zero gain. A regular old 2TB drive, or 512GB SSD, or whatever, will give you more flexibility and probably better performance for $100 or so. Then move all the rest of the drives to a NAS you build with old parts, and you're off to the races.

On the cases thing, I use a Fractal R4 Blackout, but they have the R5 now, which has a few nice features over the R4. It can hold 8x3.5 drives, plus 2x2.5, plus whatever you can cram in the ODD bay if you want. $110 or so, but I think I got mine for around $80 on sale.

I also have a Rosewill rack mount thing, 15x3.5 and tons of room to work inside. It might not fit your spatially constrained requirement, but you might also be able to slide it under a bed or end table. It looks like it's $105, so in the same ballpark.

u/contrarian_barbarian · 1 pointr/homelab

I have an iStarUSA D-400-6-Blue with some drive bays, and then my "desktop" PC (my rack is next to my desk so my day to day computer is in the rack also) is in a iStarUSA D-400-L7. If I was creating a file server from scratch, I'd probably get a Norco 4020; however, the D-400-6 was my old "desktop" case, and when I switched to the D-400-L7 for a combination of the added cooling and having enough space that my extended length video cards weren't running into the drive bays, the D-400-6 replaced an old cheapo Dell server box as my main server.

I'm also a big fan of these universal rack rails. They don't slide or anything like that, but you can put absolutely anything on them. I'd still screw in the server's ears, but the rails make it a lot easier to lift it into place.

u/Boosh_The_Almighty · 5 pointsr/homelab

Super cool, I'll be there soon myself.

Quick question, wooden shelf on rails? What wizard must I quest for to obtain this sort of thing? Is it basically a 19" wide board screwed into spare rails? Or maybe something a bit higher tech like https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA

u/cmrs2k · 1 pointr/homelab

This is exactly what I did and why.

Have a FreeNAS VM on proxmox and pass the drives straight through for ZFS... Can more gracefully handle mismatched drives and sizes well over the perc 2tb limit.

Side notes:

  • I flashed in another box, did not play well trying to flash inside my r710
  • Had to install it in one of the normal PCIe slots, not the storage one the PERC came out of
  • Required different, longer cables... I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFEVQ4E
u/meauwschwitz · 4 pointsr/homelab

The cyberpower PFC line work pretty well, but run between $130 and $200.

Amazon Smile Link

u/SuddenWeatherReport · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm using this HBA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QJZLCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My hard drives work great and negotiate at 6Gbps.

There is this expander where the SSDs plug into the DAS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGSIJH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wrote the review on there about 3Gbps fyi.

Everytime I look up this expansion module for the DAS nothing says it is supposed to be 3Gbps.

u/Browncow8 · 1 pointr/homelab

I personally like Cable Matters brand. I currently have a normal 24 port, but if I were to redo it, I'd get a 24 port keystone one. Easier to install and move ports as needed!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_P9UTDbA6P4DCF

u/Longshot726 · 1 pointr/homelab

Rails to fit Rosewill's cases are pretty much all a minimum of 22". Your only real option for "rails" is to put in static shelves such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539551858&sr=8-3&keywords=server+rails

u/SirLagz · 1 pointr/homelab

Maybe get some of these sorts of SATA cables would make it easier - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4PCS-Free-Shipping-DIY-Black-sata-3-SATA-III-3-Data-Cable-Dual-channel-aluminum-foil/1582341251.html


Or get a SATA controller that uses Mini-SAS to SATA cables and get these - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-Mini-SAS-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC


Would make running separate SATA cables a bit easier and more manageable

u/mmm_dat_data · 1 pointr/homelab

nice write up! I actually just bought these and am waiting for them to arrive

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Though the fans im replacing have a max CFM of like 10x what these do, I'm just gonna wing it and see if my temps are ok... if this doesnt work the box is gonna get shelved or thrown out probably.. now if i could only find a way to monitor temps in ESXi when I only have the web interface...

u/Electro_Nick_s · 2 pointsr/homelab

here's what I got. It's 25u open and adjustable for $250. I'm pretty sure monstermuffin had the 12u version of this before upgrading

u/ru4serious · 1 pointr/homelab

So I just realized the P812 has the Mini SAS on the board whereas the P800 has the larger SAS ports on the board. Therefore, you'll actually need these breakout cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-Mini-SAS-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC

If you get two of those, you attach them to the internal ports and then that gives you 8 total internal drives. If you needed more than that, then you would get the SAS Expander, run SAS cables from the P812 to the SAS expander, and then use more of those breakout cables on the SAS expander to get more internal drives.

I haven't used the SAS expander for HP so I am not sure how well it works or what additional configuration you will need.

You would need those other cables I listed if you were going to use the P800, but I wouldn't recommend it since that card only supports up to 2TB drives where the P812 supports MUCH larger drives and up to 108 total drives (if you really wanted to).

u/mattheww · 2 pointsr/homelab

Really, any 40mm fan will do. But here's:

u/snowboardracer · 4 pointsr/homelab

You're correct. 6/i is slow, limited to drives 2TB or smaller, and doesn't have true IT mode. Its a good card to keep if (1) you don't care about software RAID, and (2) have spinners 2TB or less.

The H200 is a great card. You can leave it in IR mode if you want hardware RAID or flash IT mode if you want software RAID. Will work with any drive.

You'll need new cables. These are the right ones for an LFF model.

u/poppopretn · 14 pointsr/homelab

Inventory:

pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.

ZOTAC ZBOX NUC

Kingston 120GB SSD

Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM

ESXi Hypervisor:

Skull Canyon NUC

32GB DDR4 RAM

Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD

Virtual Machines I'm currently running.

Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.

Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.

OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.

Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.

Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.


Wireless:

Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite


Switch:

TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch

RetroPi + Monitor:

RPi3

10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor


My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)

u/callmetom · 1 pointr/homelab

Oops. I did mean 40mm.

Though I wouldn't get the 40x20 fans without measuring as most of the fans in appliances like this (though, again, I don't have one to be sure) are more thin, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h5IEybJJS9CB6

u/Endersgame485 · 1 pointr/homelab

Mikrotik has a 10gb model in this price range, 24 gig ports and 2 SFP+

​

Sorry its a little more expensive 143.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CSS326&qid=1554210393&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/PiMan3141592653 · 2 pointsr/homelab

CableCreation Internal Mini SAS SFF-8087 to Right Angle SFF-8087 Cord, Internal Mini SAS to Mini SAS Cable, Compatible with RAID or PCI Express Controller, 2.5FT /0.75M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFEVQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y0sKDbFEJ76W1

These are the exact cables I bought (buy 2) for my R710 II LFF to connect my H200 and it works perfectly.

u/cosmos7 · 1 pointr/homelab

Have you done any sort of analysis to determine power consumption? Using something like a Kill-A-Watt inline can help you do this. My bet is that R410 is the biggest individual drain.

u/klmx30302 · 5 pointsr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ARS4FK5114M5WF08CRWK this is probably going to be a better all around fan. Slightly more airflow, quieter, and doesn't use a sleeve bearing.

u/stupac62 · 2 pointsr/homelab

They are not "so expensive". Look:
normal patch panel-$37
and the Keystone patch panel-$19

This implies the "keystones" included in the integrated patch panel cost $18 for 24 of them, or $0.75 a piece.

Actual keystones-$27 or $1.08 per keystone.

So, the Keystones + Keystone Patch Panel is $7.92 more expensive than the integrated patch panel. This is easily worth the cost. If I want to move a terminated cable, I just release the keystone and move it. Now think of the integrated patch panel.

Edit: formatting.

u/kody07 · 1 pointr/homelab

In order to use FreeNAS with ESXi, you need to have another drive, not connected to the hba, that you can use as your datastore for your FreeNAS VM. It can't be a USB drive, so you will have to find another way to do it. I bought this to put my SSD in and it worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XIU4T2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bamhm182 · 14 pointsr/homelab

It's a rosewill. Same case I have. It is great. Rosewill 4U Server Chassis / Server Case / Rackmount Case, Metal Rack Mount Computer Case with 8 Bays & 4 Fans Pre-Installed (RSV-R4000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055EV30W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dt2MAb4MA2JP1

u/wannabeAdmin16 · 1 pointr/homelab

This is the case I recently bought 3 of to move my PCs to rack mounted cases.
They don't come with any rails however the internal grate which has 3 fans on it can be fairly easily modded to mount my h100i I had in two of the PCs.
Definitely fits atx mobo,psu and full length video card.


http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Server-Chassis-Rackmount-Metal/dp/B0091IZ1ZG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

u/tedder42 · 2 pointsr/homelab

gotcha. I got a mid-length rack at first thinking it would be enough. It doesn't even fit the "dell sliding rails", though it fits those rails I linked, it just means a full-depth server is longer than the rack.

So, TLDR, get a full length/adjustable rack like this.

Or put it on a shelf or the floor, it's homelab :)

u/PSPrez · 3 pointsr/homelab

I'm curious why you didn't just go with something like this 12U 4 post?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1RJ9LS/

Unless you needed it to be enclosed, but I think it would be less work to enclose this than it was to create all that contraption you made.

u/iThrud · 1 pointr/homelab

You can pick up sas cables that work with the h700 from Amazon, you don't necessarily need the dell ones.

I got two of these ( linky ) and they work just fine, and fit the LFF backplane.

u/darkciti · 1 pointr/homelab

It's plugged in to the mainboard at the bottom (in the front). I recommend an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XIU4T2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Grandsinge · 2 pointsr/homelab

Standard depth for dell servers is ~30 inches. If you're using the rapid rails they have a range of +-2inches.


I recently got this rack set it to 30 inches and it fits my R710 wonderfully with rapid rails.

u/CollateralFortune · 1 pointr/homelab

>Should i order a new USB 3.0 to gigabit Ethernet or should i instead order a pfSense router?

The drivers for USB->Ethernet can be hit and miss. I'm always about supporting pfSense, so if it's in your budget, definitely order one of their devices.

Another alternative might be to get a cheap managed switch, and run a "router on a stick" philosophy, sticking your ISP Provided connection on a VLAN, and passing that VLAN into ESX. That way you don't need two NICs.

I like unmanaged TPLink switches, and don't know that I've heard anything bad about their managed version, so it could almost be cheaper than getting another USB->Ethernet adaptor. But it might be worth asking around for other people's experience with that switch.

u/poldim · 1 pointr/homelab

Those all in one type units that look like a fat power strip are crap. It's just their attempt to milk their good name to pick up low hanging fruit. Needless to say, quality isn't the best, I think it's made in India. I've got an BR1500G (http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU). It's great, works as it should, and it's a reputable company. Just don't buy their rack mount stuff unless you absolutely have to. It's aimed at the enterprise market which mean its just $$$$ more expensive than it should be.

u/KevinACrider · 2 pointsr/homelab

I built my NAS from this 4U case and I am very happy with it. It doesn't have hot-swap but you will pay a lot more for that. The case has plenty of room, holds 12 drives, and has several places for fans. Each 4-drive cartridge holds a full size fan, too.

u/Archer_37 · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you dont need rack mounted, Ive found my APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS with the extended Battery to be very good. Current load is 130w and runtime is 178 mins.
If I turn on the desktop that is also on there, runtime drops to just over an hour with the combined ~250w load.

I have it connected to my FreeNAS whitebox via the included USB, with NUT running on FreeNAS that shuts down the rest of the applicable servers via network.

Total cost new: ~$310 USD.


Edit: N.U.T.

u/MISFITofMAGIC · 1 pointr/homelab

I use this velcro in my rack and it's perfect.

u/eleenheer · 1 pointr/homelab

Protronix SATA Optical Bay 2nd Hard Drive Caddy, Universal for 12.7mm CD/DVD Drive Slot (for SSD and HDD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIU4T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cu0PDbJQHHWZ4

The ssd I'm using is an adata su-800 128gb since it's just for the OS and a couple of applications. Lol make sure the SATA port is enabled in the bios. It took me a bit to realize I didnt enable the right one

u/ChrisOfAllTrades · 1 pointr/homelab

> I'm using this HBA

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QJZLCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> My hard drives work great and negotiate at 6Gbps.

A fifty-dollar SAS9200-8e? I have to suspect you have a counterfeit HBA right there. Contact LSI/Avago support and ask for some assistance, take high-res pictures of the front and back of the card. They'll help you determine legitimacy and if it's bunk you should get a refund ASAP and use a legit card. A reflashed OEM card like the Dell PERC H200/H310 or IBM M1015 is fine, but don't use knockoffs.

Nothing else in the datasheets for any of the gear should show it as limited to SATA2 speeds. Unless your interposer is mucking things up but that's unlikely.

u/umad_cause_ibad · 1 pointr/homelab

I tried the amazon ones then a left and right set from eBay. They were all wrong. I just got straight ones in the end.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KFEVQ4E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It’s amazon.ca I hope that’s ok.

u/Pacoboyd · 1 pointr/homelab

$119.95 - CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower

\https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Fantastic price on this Pure Sinewave UPS. Using this on my lab (picked it up full price) will be getting a second for my personal computer.

u/try_socks · 2 pointsr/homelab

If all you want is a dumb swith I agree with /u/CollateralFortune . But I also agree with /u/G01d3ngypsy and I would spend a few more bucks and get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519311016&sr=1-3&keywords=mikrotik+24+port+switch

u/TheMuffinMan91 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I keep a kill-a-watt around when I want to test how much power electronics draw. It should be accurate to at least 10% and has a max of 15A. It can measure voltage, current, power, and kwh.

I usually just plug everything into a power strip and use the kill-a-watt to measure the entire system's power consumption at once. They are pretty cheap so you can buy multiple if you need to test more than one thing at once.

u/lasermedia · 1 pointr/homelab

I have my gaming PC in my rack. This is the case I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055EV30W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wDqgyb77BXYEN
It is big enough, that's for sure.

I also use this for my gaming pc through a hole in my rack because I keep my rack locked: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG7HO22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xFqgybVHH39NF

  • on my phone, not sure how to format links

    Edit: Looks like the price for the case has gone up $25 since I bought 3 of them.
u/dp__ · 3 pointsr/homelab

Yep, C7. Sorry about that. My current plan is to convert my PC into a whitebox running pfSense with this quad nic, and just use the C7 as an access point. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a new rig anyway. Do you think this is a good solution?

u/armouredking · 1 pointr/homelab

Nah, anything but. Adjustable depth, but definitely not something I'd call custom.

u/RedneckBob · 1 pointr/homelab

Might want to check electricity consumption of the 2950 vs r210. I suspect the 2950 pulls considerable more watts, even with a light setup (fewer drives, slower/low watt procs, etc).

A r210 with E3-1240 3.3Ghz, 4 UDIMMS (2G), 2x500G 7.2k SATA, 2x1G ethernet, iDRAC has the following:

u/TheOnlyApex · 1 pointr/homelab

A cheap suggestion to lower the sound is by switching to Noctua fans. They are well known for being very quiet. I picked these fans up and they are considerably quieter than what I got with my case.

For some BIOS, you can setup the fan speed based on the the temperatures. I did that as well.

Fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KF7MVI2

Case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG

u/brokenhomelab · 2 pointsr/homelab

As u/wtallis said, it's a 12U rack from StarTech.

EDIT: just a comment on it if you're considering it. The build quality is pretty inconsistent and a considerable amount of the different holes for the hinges don't line up quite right. I ended up having to correct the holes with my drill.

u/Reziarfg · 1 pointr/homelab

It's an adjustable StarTech 12U rack. Bought it on Amazon for around $212.

Looks like it's gotten cheaper since then:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1RJ9LS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

u/Fett2 · 1 pointr/homelab

These Navepoint shelves are pretty cheap and will hold a lot of weight.

u/xx_yaroz_xx · 2 pointsr/homelab

We just did this for some r710's.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XIU4T2

Takes the place of the DVD. It's very good.

u/-GeekLife- · 2 pointsr/homelab

Are those full depth or just switch depth?

This is a comparable Trip Lite enclosure for 12U 32inch depth(which is mid depth and not the full 36 like this one) I can't find any full enclosure new for under $450. Even the open 4 post ones are $200 range normally.

u/Gamerfanatic · 1 pointr/homelab

Is it sitting on the bottom of the rack?

Or did you use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522809791&sr=8-3&keywords=server+rails


This is what I thought would make it more than 4U (albeit slightly more than 4U (by fractions of an inch).

u/Aceramic · 3 pointsr/homelab

Velcro cable wraps - Check your local Lowes/Home Depot/Walmart/Whatever, they may have the two packs for the same price as one roll from Amazon. I've lost entire rolls, and it's still worth the price. I'm sure I'll find the lost rolls eventually, of course. >.>

Rackmount PDU to replace the power strip you have on the floor.

Real rackmount gear to replace the home stuff you have stacked on top of other devices. ;)

u/vocanoleon · 1 pointr/homelab

Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM is a good option. It has two SFP+ ports, don't know whether you need this. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN

u/joebobcooter · 1 pointr/homelab

Everytime I see the cranked down zip ties, I feel the need to point out these. Works way better than zip ties.

u/sidusnare · 1 pointr/homelab

I like these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/

has a loop to hold itself to one end, to they don't get lost and make clutter when the cable is in use, and can take up slack when it is in use. Cheap too. Tight hooks and loops so it doesn't pick up as much trash as others. I'll even remove and replace some of the Velcro that comes on things already.

u/giantsnyy1 · 2 pointsr/homelab

Ok... so that’s way out of the budget.

Has anyone used something like this? StarTech 12U Enclosed Rack

u/crowbyrd · 1 pointr/homelab

These cables work as well if anyone is looking for some on amazon.

u/AzN1337c0d3r · 1 pointr/homelab

For R710 you need mounting depth of approximately 28-29 inches.

Startech 12U sounds like what you need. Or if you plan on expanding your homelab significantly you might want to order a 25U.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4POSTRACK25U-Adjustable-Server-Cabinet/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522219129&sr=8-1&keywords=startech%2B25U&th=1

u/AceBlade258 · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm a fan of the GS108E of the TP-LINK of the same never had problems with either.

TP-LINK of the 308

u/Jugrnot · 3 pointsr/homelab

Case selection would depend on what you're doing. If you're planning on having one or two disks, check out the rosewill cases.

My use case is a massive storage array, along with running vms for other stuff so I went with the Rosewill RSV-L4500 15 bay case. If you're looking for a large number of drives, I do NOT recommend this case. You have to pull the thing completely out of your rack, take the lid off, then take the entire drive caddy out the front to access any of the disks. Changing out a disk is VERY difficult on this case. Rosewill does have other simpler cases with fewer storage bays you might check out.

If you plan to have a large storage array with a ton of disks, go with something like the SuperMicro 24 bay 846e16-r1200b which has hot swappable drives right out the front. It's more money, but it's worth it. Also comes with redundant power.


For the Rosewill cases, you'll have to supply your own PSU. I went with the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G1+ which has the 1x24pin ATX connector and 2x8pin+12v connectors these server class boards require.

u/icemerc · 5 pointsr/homelab

Found 2 deals on pure sine wave cyberpower UPS

Newegg - Cyberpower GX1325U 1325VA 810W - $110

Amazon - CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA 900W - $130

Edit: B&H Photo has the CP1500PFCLCD for the same price as Amazon.

u/babtras · 3 pointsr/homelab

It is a Rosewill case that I found on Amazon. I only got it last week. I wanted to clean up my rack and my 3U case has a GPU that was too tall to put the cover on. So I got this cheap 4U and put it in there, and will put something else in the 3U case later.

I saw a few posts over the last few days that have the same case (My cover is open so it looks different).
https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/atzj4e/just_recabled_the_home_lab_rack_im_quite_proud_of/
https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/aun5qx/could_use_some_advice_on_device_placement_to/

u/stone_solid · 1 pointr/homelab

well, it claims to be smart! This is the switch.

​

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Replacement-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU

​

It has a default IP but its on my network with DHCP so I don't know how to log into it.