Top products from r/homeowners

Assuming you had an inspection done you really don't have any tests to do as they all should already have been done. (Toxins in paint and such)

Locate your main water valve, main gas valve and meter, and breaker panel. Just so you know where they are. Open breaker panel, identify which breaker controls what. Hopefully they are marked.

Get a pair of bolt cutters. I've used mine many times for random jobs around the house. Speaking of tools, a basic $100 toolset comes in handy all the time and you'll never regret investing in a quality battery powered drill.

Change the code to the garage door opener.

Change locks on doors.

Take a lot of "before" pics. It's fun to look back and see how much your home has changed.

Look into rebates that are offered by your local utility companies ( electricity and gas). They'll usually give you free LED light bulbs, or great deals on random things like that. And where I live they'll even come out and do different audits for free to make sure things are running smoothly in your home.

Look into Sonic Internet in your area. I've heard good things about them lately.

Home improvement can quickly become overwhelming. Expect to get overwhelmed. Then expect to get inspired again.

Back to tools, get a quality stud finder. Not a hyped up beeping led one. Just a solid magnet one. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451979365&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

Before you attempt to fix something, always just check out a video or two on YouTube. They will point out things like why you should not over tighten the bolts on your toilet. (I learned that one the hard way). Since then I always try to watch a video before fixing something. They will usually point out safety things and other "gotchas" that you should be aware of.

Can't think of much else right now. Good luck and congrats!

Do it yourself. It is MUCH cheaper.

I recommend this one if you want to replace the entire knob. (kwikset) It has the benefit of being able to re-key your locks in about 10 seconds, without disassembling the knob, if you decide to change your locks again in the future. Super easy. $20 per knob.

Alternatively, you could get something like this (re-keying kit). It's only $10, and you can re-key several locks. It's definitely a bit delicate though. Make sure to follow the instructions very precisely, or you'll end up with pins shooting everywhere from the springs.

Whichever method you choose, you should be done in about an hour. Do you like the idea of having a job that makes/saves $130 per hour?

I am sure it will be fine. Fridges generally don't have many issues. I would recommend you buy a water alarm and put it behind the fridge before sliding it in. $12 at Amazon and they last as long as the battery, so ... what ... 10 years? These have saved me at least twice - once for my water heater, and once for my kids taking a very boisterous bath!

The washer/dryer combo we have has been rock solid. No issues whatsoever. The last set we bought in 2009 but left with our old house (stupid us!) and is still going strong, and we have a new set from 2015 which is also just fine.

If you have extra money to spend, check out the KitchenAide combo microwave/convection oven. It's $700, but also includes a real oven. It's awesome if you bake a lot. It is very small, so perfect for little dishes, and it heats up twice as fast as a full sized oven so it uses a lot less power. Since it's convection, it cooks faster too, so you can usually knock about 10% off cook times. I don't know how we lived without it!

If it’s super short, yeah you could do it like that... shove the vac tube into the dryer tube. But if it’s longer then that, you’ll need something like this:

Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q3SyCbBE3N5DX

Turn your dryer on with the heat off, attach to power drill, and feed that in from the outside of the house.

Don’t clean flexible tube this way, only the “hard” sheet metal tube. You’ll be surprised at how much comes out.

This is also a common service provided by handymen.

Probably not what you're looking for, but I can vouch for these. They're strong for a solar powered light, but not really suited for a path, more for lighting up trees or objects. I have them on top of my retaining wall shooting down, but I still had to make a holder for them that looked good. And you have to have a place to hide the solar panel that still gets sun. Again, not really for path but you talked about sprucing up the front yard, so if you want a good accent light, these work.

Hopefully someone has a rec. for a good path light, because there's a lot of lousy ones out there. Don't go too cheap, they're just dim and don't really do anything.

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Edit: added hyperlink.

1. While you shouldn't replace your windows mid-winter, you can put plastic over them. This is very common in the midwest.
   
   Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
   
   This can make a huge difference if you do a good job and blowdry it nice and tight.
   
   
2. At night, use an electric blanket. Much more efficient than heating all the air in the room.
   
   
3. Don't cheap out on your heat so much that a pipe bursts! That's more expensive to clean up than any heating bill.

Thanks for the diagram, that's interesting.

This studfinder uses super strong magnets to detect the screws/nails, and actually sticks to them through the drywall. It's this thing. Seems to work great.. and that's the only spot it picks up any metal.

Check out the Linteater (Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A9OJBbB2KXJDC)

Yes, it is made for cleaning dryer vents but it comes with a cutter attachment (shown in one the pictures) and can be used to clean out things like gutters. Might work for your case depending on how far you need it to extend.

I have this one, and I like it. I mow about 1/4 acre, and it just about perfectly drains the two batteries I have (but it holds both batteries simultaneously, so no need to stop to grab a fresh one). It's quiet, doesn't smell bad like a traditional mower, and I don't have to mix gas. Also, I've known several people whose house fires originated with their gas-powered lawnmower. I have a 16" chainsaw that I love, and it uses the same batteries.

We had an epic clog in the bathroom sink once. The prior owners liked to cram hair down there or something. We ended up having to shut off the water to the bathroom, removed the piping, and manually scraping out all the goop and hair in the pipes. Then put it all back together and water test it. Took about 90 minutes and it has worked well ever since.

If you have to go that route get a pair of disposable gloves, one of those plastic drain snakes (about $2-$4 at HD), and a hook and pick set (saw one at autozone for $1.79). Don't forget some plumber's tape(just got some for $0.52 at walmart).

You can use either a big channel-lock pliers or an actual plumber's wrench (usually more expensive) to take apart the pipes, if you need to buy some measure your pipe sizes ahead of time. You will either need 2 of them, one to counterbalance your wrenching, or some other way to hold the other end in-place while you unscrew stuff.

Good luck!

As an aside: the amazon stuff I linked is waay over priced, but it lets you know what I am talking about, and I'm too lazy to find the best prices for stuff in your area.

> If you can do without wifi and the smart home features

FYI the wifi one's aren't much more than a "dumb" thermostat. They can be had on sale for $80 if you keep an eye out. I picked up this model on sale at Lowe's a couple years ago for around that. In fact, it's only $88 on Amazon right now.

Agree the "smart" thermostats are overkill for how much they're going to save though.

I bought this one. It comes with two batteries and one kicks on immediately when the other dies, so you get a solid hour or so of active time.

Most of what you're paying for is the batteries, to be honest, but it's much easier than dealing with a cord. Plus, if you end up buying other Greenworks gadgets like a weed whacker, snow blower, leaf blower, etc. then you can buy the battery-less versions and use the batteries that came with the mower.

I second checking the dryer vent for lint build up. Its super easy to clean your dryer vent with a shop vac and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Cleaning/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520883654&sr=8-4&keywords=Dryer+vent+cleaner

I don’t want anyone to think I’m making money off it or anything. But it’s the AirThings monitor from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8

It’s not cheap but I feel better having it set up in my daughters’ bedroom and “knowing”. I also hope that I’ll be able to confirm my radon fan is working as the levels should drop down to less than the outdoor average of 0.4 (or so I’ve about others on /r/homeimprovement).

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=UZKBMTDUW8W1&keywords=cat+urine+enzyme+cleaner&qid=1550497354&s=gateway&sprefix=cat+urin%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

This is the best spray I have ever used. I have two cats. You can purchase a larger amount. It should take care of the cat urine smell even if it is dry.

I successfully trained the neighbor's cat to stop crapping in our sandbox using one of these motion activated sprinklers. Effective, humane, entertaining.

I purchased these and have been very pleased. I like the ability to place the panel separately from the lights and concealing the cord was easy enough. They also held up after an extremely harsh winter.

I have this and it have had no problems

https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-20-Inch-Force-Cordless-25302/dp/B00GX9WNP2

but I have way less grass. Like 2500 sq ft. How long would it take with a normal lawn mower? It takes me like 30-40 and the batteries easily last. 1/4 acre sounds kind of big for electric.

Nature's Miracle was mediocre.

Rocco and Roxies has worked much better for us.

I actually just did this at my house we bought last week! I bought schlage rekey set and even got the override on a smart key. https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Tumbler/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469820045&sr=8-1&keywords=schlage+rekey

Hope this helps. Took me a few hours to do 5 locks and the smart lock but I also didn't know what I was doing. Really worth it.

All you need is something like this https://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Cleaning/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504584607&sr=8-1&keywords=linteater

I have one for 14' of vent, works great.

The condensation is because of the back tank continuing to refill. Cold water in tank constantly 10 to 20 degrees cooler than the outside air forms condensation like a cold beer is wet on the outside and eventually that drips onto the floor forming a puddle like the little pool of water around your beer. It may be as simple as fixing the innards so it isn't filling constantly. Our toilets need a new seal flap inside every 5 years or so. Takes literally 2 minutes to replace. Cost is around 5 dollars.

It looks like the red thing in this item. I'd start with this. You need the one that fits your brand toilet. I'd go to local hardware store and with toilet brand and talecimsge of inside tank and outside toilet and ask the guy behind the counter which one you need to buy.

Fluidmaster 400CRP14 Universal Toilet Fill Valve and Flapper Repair Kit, for 2-Inch Flush Valve Toilets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUHQWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M-lQCbA6S56YV

You can easily do it yourself with something like this. I am sure you can find a longer one if necessary or buy 2 and use the rods to make it longer.

It really is a simple DIY project.

Have you tried a strong magnet to find the nails in the studs? Something like this might work http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408676127&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I can imagine the USB socket busting off the phone mounted ones under actual use.

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to get one of these things.

Amazon.com links

TG130 - $199 USD, no image capture [https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ALSO84E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501424183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=FLIR%2Btg130&dpPl=1&dpID=41oghPRgdOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ALSO84E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501424183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=FLIR%2Btg130&dpPl=1&dpID=41oghPRgdOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1)

TG165 - $349 USD, save images to SD card https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NXJDQV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501424183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=FLIR%2Btg130&dpPl=1&dpID=41oghPRgdOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Also

• Get yourself one of these and clean the dryer vent. Good to do about once a year too.

Sprinkler gave me like a 90% improvement so I highly recommend it, I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62100-Activated-Sprinkler-Detection/dp/B009F1R0GC

Thank you, TheSingingKid! Seems I have spend a bit more (although I have already spent a lot to set things up) I found two types. One is conventional and cheap, like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWP07LK/

The other is crawlspace specific and expensive, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW8WRUP/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Do I need the 2nd one, powerful but almost 5 times pricier, to make things right?

Try to get something like this
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KFUgzbKCDT8VR

Saved me a lot of time.

Maybe consider an electric mower like this one? https://www.amazon.com/GreenWorks-25022-Corded-20-Inch-Mower/dp/B002ZVOLXE

I have this model, and it works well for my ~600sqft of lawn. It's relatively quiet, about as loud as a vacuum cleaner, and is easy to push. Wrangling the cord is really the only downside, but I just go back and forth across the lawn, moving away from the outlet.

I've tried using a reel mower on my yard, and, as others have said, you have to do it very frequently to keep the grass short enough to cut effectively.

$83: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/

I use this one and it's great.

Oh god this is giving me PTSD from the house I bought last year.

It had one of those Honeywell programmable thermostats and I was shivering at 2am poking at it with a flashlight trying to figure it out. Programming it was a pain in the ass. Changing the temp? I was never sure if I was reprogramming it or temp changing the setting. I ripped it out day 2 and put in a Nest. That's super clear.

In the basement I put in a round mechanical thermostat to keep the pipes from freezing in winter and that's it. No frills. Just a spring.

If I were you, unless you want a smart one, I'd get one of the old round ones and call it a day. If you want a smart one, get the cheap Nest.

Can't speak to your specific request but if you don't have a Kill-A-Watt I highly recommend getting one.

It can really help you indentify what to worry about and what to let go.

I bought this thing on a lark. It's a bendable plastic strip with little teeth to catch on debris. You use it like a snake. It actually works really well to get hair out of there before there's a clog. It's absolutely disgusting, but it does pull lots of hair and other stuff out of the drain.

Edit: product says it's disposable, but I've used the same one for a year and a half; you just have to be willing to clean it after you're done using it.

not sure on what a jacuzzi costs to operate, but if you want to know how much electricity something's drawing, I recommend getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517522456&sr=8-1&keywords=kill-a-watt

If you're able to use that on the heater, you should get a really accurate idea of what it's costing

These are pretty good

Edit: fixed link

Yeah, fireplace should be closed up - possible to lose more heat up the chimney than it provides. Is the damper closed? You can also stuff some insulation up into the chimney as a stop gap (don't want heat sucking up out of the house).

Now might be the time to put plastic on your windows. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Can make a big difference if your windows are drafty.

Also, curtains. The thicker the better, but any curtains are better than no curtains. Just close 'em up at night and they'll reduce the amount of heat your house radiates out to the night sky through the windows.

Before paying someone to come out, try using a zip it. It's cheap and could get all of the junk out very easily.

I recently purchased a home and we updated all the locks so they have the same key. It was fairly simple. You can buy one of these kits, just make sure you get it for the right kind of lock. They are different depending on which brand of doorknob/deadbolt you have - there are only really Schlage and Kwikset options. The kit we bought is good for 6 locks - just keep in mind that each deadbolt and doorknob is a lock so potentially 2 per door.



I'm assuming this means you will have a different key for your electronic keypad lock but those may also be changeable.

I have this one. It’s been great but can’t get my 2000 sq ft basement below 52% or so.

I recommend this electric mower I bought a few months back. It’s cordless and it works with their entire line of electric operated tools weed eater leaf blower etc...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GX9WNP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iGUWAb0EA6GCZ

Like these

Its a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

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You attach it with the tape then use a hair dryer to shrink it.

Just buy a Zip-It (or the generic version). These work really well on tubs and showers for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Drain-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

> In the last couple days I found a decent layer of condensation water on water pipes, a/c coolant pipes and a/c ducts in the crawl space.

Are you on city water or well water?

Is the insulation also wet?

First I'd get someone to check every pressured pipe under there. It sounds like a hot water leak that is steaming the crawl space.

Purchase a hygrometer to measure the amount of humidity down there (get one with a wireless emitter) ASAP.

https://www.amazon.com/Ambient-Weather-WS-70-8-Channel-Thermo-Hygrometer/dp/B00X4XVKAO/

If the number is above 70 then you'll need a dehumidifier. In addition you'll need a 3-prong outlet (extension cords are strongly not advised) and a way for the water to leave the crawlspace (unless you want to empty a bucket every 5-6 hours).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWP07LK/

Do you have a washer/dryer in the home? Depending on how often you are doing laundry, this can really contribute to your electric usage. If you have a large or older refrigerator, that can have a big impact as well.

You can buy a tool called a Kill A Watt to test how much electricity certain appliances are using. This can help you pin down the cause. Amazon link here: http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

What type of hot water heater do you have?

I bought this from amazon and followed a YouTube video to rekey it myself.

I bought a new house and didn’t want to spend $200 bucks to get my locks rekeyed. Payed $20 bucks and spent 1.5 hours on 3 locks, resulted in 3 same keys and opened all 3 locks.

Get an in-wall timer and wire it to the lights, fan, and outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00313JXB0/ref=zg_bs_6291360011_14?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7MXDJ0XKHX9ERT13J8SP

This way, not only is it a permanent solution (better than cords and plugs exposed in a wet environment), it also helps both of you. Neither of you has to worry about a stuffy or moldy bathroom with fogged-up mirrors, because the fan stays on for a while after you leave the shower. You don't worry about her straightener staying on. And she doesn't have to fear the fumes after you take a dump.

Win-win!

(And I would steer away from buying her a new straightener. The frizziness or lasting straightness of her hair will subsequently be blamed on your straightener purchase. Offer to fund it, but let her pick out the one she wants or keep using her current one on the above timer if she doesn't want to change it.)

Let me offer an alternative. I just moved and picked up this electric lawn mower instead of a gas one. So far, so good. I have a .25 acre lot.

I should add, you can buy a FLIR TG130 for $200.

Now, I wouldn't be in this situation because I would never buy in a HOA, so grains of salt and all that. But what I would do is find where the sprinkler stuff plugs in, and have the HOA buy a kill a watt or equivalent meter, and plug the sprinkler system into it. Then a HOA board member could read it annually and reimburse you, or roll it in with the water.

Here it is

Here you go:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UWP07LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474225178&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fridgeaire+dehumidifier&dpPl=1&dpID=316rM8FWZvL&ref=plSrch

I think THIS is what u/tvtb wanted to link to.

replace the whole "unit" - about ~$15.....

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https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-400CRP14-Universal-Flapper-Toilets/dp/B007TUHQWY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=toilet+valve&qid=1559320172&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Depending on the model of lock you have, you can also rekey them yourself. I've got this sitting in a drawer right now, waiting for all the contractors to finish work on our new place:
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-2402-Re-Keying-Kit-Rekeying/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525798830&sr=sr-1&keywords=schlage+rekey+kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1525715320&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dryer+vent+cleaner+kit

Buying the kit for the first time. Thoughts on this one?

Get a radon detector from Amazon and find out how well it works .

Usually a sump piit needs a pump to mitigate water and a pump. Is part of that. Usually the weeping tile goes into the pit so water gets pumped. The whole thing could be encapsulated for radon mitigation.

I use this one in my basement:

Corentium Home Radon Detector by Airthings 223 Portable, Lightweight, Easy-to-Use, (3) AAA Battery Operated, USA Version, pCi/L

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VOSP8

I'm in a similar situation, though my yard is larger, probably about 5000 sq ft. But it's pretty flat and there is no spot more than about 60 feet from the house.

Like you I didn't want to spend $500+ on a mower. I have not had good luck with cheap ($150-180) gas mowers, they don't last, I got 2 and they both died in 2-3 years. I tried an Earthwise battery powered mower but the batteries began to fail after only a year, and replacing the batteries is expensive ($100-150).

I ended up with this. The mower is pretty light weight. The cord is somewhat of a hassle, you need a 12 amp extension cord which at 50-100 feet is kind of heavy, and obviously you need to drag it around. However if your yard does not have a lot of obstructions, once you're going back and forth it isn't a big deal. You quickly learn the tricks of how to flake and run the cord and to turn the mower so that the cord remains behind you. You can also get a 2nd person to help manage the cord to make it go faster.

So far so good on this mower...

Total waste in my book. All you really need is one of these magnetic ones. The fancy stuff didn't work for me but this does every time.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PT8gzbM75ASRP

Oh, I hear you - I'm in Indiana. Keeping them open for a couple hours for the first week is to lower your current high level. Afterwards, you should only need to open a window briefly (I usually do 15m or so) every day or two to keep levels low.

I've got one of these meters: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2VOSP8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep an eye on it and try to keep my levels below 3. Anytime it creeps up, I crack my window until it goes back down. It's a bit of a hefty initial investment of $200 for the meter, but it's so worth it when compared with the expensive systems.

If it is from Pet stains from the previous owners or something use this

It works very well. A cat of mine was having some health problems and stopped using the litter box. We used this and you can't smell it at all now.

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3/139-9189163-9220010?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000JOK11K&pd_rd_r=2328cb60-a275-11e9-8b3f-05565185fef1&pd_rd_w=VRTMj&pd_rd_wg=fngno&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=NRBNSJF38ZYBXYM05YDD&psc=1&refRID=NRBNSJF38ZYBXYM05YDD

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I have 4 of these.. several have alarmed with just tiny amounts of water on the ground.. placement is key. I prefer these because I can keep the unit with speaker/battery off the ground and sensor in tighter spots.

Replace the flushing mechanism in your toilet. Sometimes when they start to go bad or the seals start to go bad water can seam buy and cause vibrations which will set off a high pitched noise. Changes in water pressure when your in the shower may cause it and when you flush the toilet everything gets reseated and temporarily fixes itself. They arent expensive or hard to replace. You can do it yourself with next to no handman experience.

Edit: This is the part youre looking to replace. Amazon sells them for $15 if you dont feel like getting off your couch but lowes/homedepot/walmart will have them as well.

I like these Glentronics ones and have them everywhere. Cheaper ones I've tried were unreliable, but my oldest Glentronics alarm has been in service for at least ten years. Since the sensor is removable, I was able to put one under the fridge and place the alarm where there was space.

It's a bit of a pain to replace the batteries every two years (that's the schedule I've used for my smoke alarms too) but it's worth the peace of mind. Before water sensors I had a washing machine flood, a fridge ice maker flood, a water heater flood, and a basement laundry pit flood, three of which went on too long because I had no idea what was happening in the basement. These alarms I can hear easily from the main floor.

Glentronics also made my Basement Watchdog Big Dog battery backup sump pump which I've had for fourteen years and has saved my basement three times during extended power failures. First battery lasted six years, the second one lasted seven, and I installed my third just recently. They sell good stuff.

I would specifically use an appliance extension cord; but since it's a gas range I doubt I'll draw too much power. If you don't have one you should get one of these inline current meters: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00009MDBU&pd_rd_r=a8ba91a8-d96a-11e8-8b2a-43f93729c796&pd_rd_w=IXixx&pd_rd_wg=JOlIJ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=KD3KRNTF6SM5923BBG9D&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=KD3KRNTF6SM5923BBG9D

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Then you can simply look at how much power is being drawn by an appliance and that will tell you if you need a heavy gauge extension wire or not.

get a kill a watt device and start measuring all your circuit consumption...I will tell right now....your bill is so high because of the electric rates you pay are sky high

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

>DAE grubs?

I heard you buy a bag of grub killer and spread it in your yard.

>What common things?

Get a stud finder like this there's a knockoff blue version you can get at Costco too.

>should I insulate it and is that difficult to do?

Insulating is easy. It's putting up all the drywall and prepping it for painting that's a pain in the ass.

>Is it expensive to replace a door?

Depends on your definition of expensive. I'd say 4-600. A general contractor or a handyman with experience in doors could help.

I’ve repeatedly had about four raccoons destroying my yard every night and the only thing that has worked is a motion sensor sprinkler.

The sprinkler doesn’t hurt the raccoons just scares them away. I only have it on during the night since that’s when they come.

This is the one I got!