(Part 2) Top products from r/homesecurity

This is a scary situation. I would recommend involving law enforcement to the extent that you can, if you can do any more than you already have.

Besides that, first priority is perimeter hardening. Cameras may provide some deterrent but won’t protect you if someone comes for you. I know it’s a rental but maybe you could convince the landlord that these are upgrades done at your own expense. Or just don’t tell. Reinforced door jamb

Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Aged Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9J2FDbK66084S

Upgrade to steel door or similar if your door is not strong.

Add security film to the windows

BDF S4MC Window Film Security and Safety Clear 4 Mil (24in X 13ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRLI2PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_192FDbNYNR641

Next, I would also add a security system with door/window sensors that sets off a siren when triggered. There are many, Ring is a popular DIY currently

Ring Alarm 5 Piece Kit - Home Security System with optional 24/7 Professional Monitoring - No long-term contracts - Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7Q6CHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rg3FDbYQSMX46

I would recommend paying for professional monitoring at least for a couple months so that it calls law enforcement for you

Next sleep with a pepper spray of your choice beside your bed. I like this one

SABRE Red Pepper Gel - Police Strength - Family, Home & Property Defense Gel with Wall Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002368VJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rp3FDbPZRWD5X

AFTER you have done these things, yes add a camera or two. Might provide some deterrent, might help you go after them if they do property damage. Wyze cams are cheap and decent. Will need an outdoor housing if installing outdoors.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3l3FDb2MGD3RM

Good luck, be safe

There are three kinds of PoE.

1. "Passive" PoE. Essentially you put the DC adapter for the unit near your switch, and the cable acts like a long DC extension cord. Potentially dangerous, not recommended, but VERY cheap and if you only need to go a few feet it's probably ok. https://www.amazon.com/iCreatin-Passive-Injector-Splitter-Connector/dp/B00NRHNPUA
   
   
2. "Regulated" PoE. This is basically 'passive PoE', but instead uses a higher voltage (typically 24v) on the injector side, and then some kind of regular on the receiving side to ensure that there is not a voltage drop for long distance runs.
   
   
3. "Active" PoE. This system, which is standardized as 802.3af (as well as others) uses communication between the injector and receiver, so that when you plug a non-PoE device in, no power is sent over the wire. This makes it much safer. This is the best option, but also the most expensive. https://amzn.com/B004UBUB7C
   
   If you only have one or two PoE devices, then individual injectors works fine. If you're going to do a big camera setup with 4+ cameras, then you're better off with a PoE switch or a 'midspan' (which is just a poe injector for multiple devices). I highly recommend you stick with 802.3af stuff (aka 'real' PoE).

I didn't go with LED lights because when I read owner reviews they were only so-so. I ended up going with Heath Zenith Model # HZ-5318-BZ lights from Home Depot and RAB Model STL360H lights from a local lighting dealer. Both Heath Zenith and RAB say these models are not designed to be used with LED bulbs because the LED bulbs will cause the motion sensors to malfunction, i.e. lights blinking off and on, etc. The Heath Zenith's don't have as much range to their motion sensor as the RAB's, but they still work very well. However, the RAB's have a 10 year warranty, while the Heath Zenith's only have a 2 year warranty. The RAB's also are much more expensive. If you buy RAB lights then don't buy them from Amazon because RAB won't honor the 10 year warranty because the sellers on Amazon are not authorized dealers. RAB also makes LED motion sensor lights, but their best motion sensor light STL360H is not designed to be used with LED bulbs. When I called customer service at both Heath Zenith and RAB to ask a few question before purchasing their lights, both companies were helpful. The other thing to consider is how high you want to mount the lights on your house. The RAB's recommended mounting at 10 ft. while the Heath Zenith's recommended mounting at 8 ft. The higher mounting height of the RAB's I believe is due to their more powerful motion sensors which gives them a greater range.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Heath-Zenith-240-Degree-Bronze-Motion-Activated-Outdoor-Flood-Light-HZ-5318-BZ/303625386

https://www.amazon.com/RAB-Lighting-STL360H-Precision-Detection/dp/B000W3YI6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=RAB+STL360H&qid=1565297233&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I did the Vista 20P option with wired 6160 keypad. Programming was easy enough - especially if you use the work book that's part of the installation guide to plan out your system before you go pressing keys. Love the EVL4 and am considering paying for their monitoring service. The EyesOn app works with my Apple watch too - which was an unexpected bonus. I'm 6 weeks out from the installation and am very happy with it. I replaced a Vista 15 panel with wired sensors with the 20p that I got off of amazon.ca for $70 Canadian! I was able to keep all of my sensors - essentially plug and play!

Well I work for a dealer so we just buy direct from the distributor, so I don't have a ton of first hand experience buying online. homesecuritystore.com is one that is often mentioned. You can even find some stuff on Amazon pretty cheap, such as this panel: https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Overall though, since you will likely need to buy multiple items for the system, since professional security systems don't really come as much of a kit...I would recommend you shop around for each of the items you plan to buy...as prices for each item can vary quite a lot.

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMZ2LTB/ref=ods\_vicc\_blink\_xt2\_compchart

Thank you, my friend, I will consider it. It becomes quite expensive when you add the Alexa too, I currently have Android mobile devices and a Mac, so would need this too.

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I don't know if it's also worth mentioning that something more discreet would be good. So if someone breaks in, they don't know that it's there.

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Again, this is very appreciated.

Assuming a solid core door. If a hollow core door, first replace with a good metal exterior solid core door and then see below.

1. Remove the screws which hold your hinges into the frame. They are most likely 1 1/4" long. Replace them with 3" deck screws. Also replace the screws that hold the hinges to the door with 2 1/2" deck screws.
   
   
2. install a deadbolt if you don't already have one. Best is if it's offset from the lock set by 12". If you have the tools and skills install another deadbolt. If the first is 12" above the lock put the second one 12" below. Use GOOD locks! There is a difference.
   
   
3. Install a deadbolt and lock reinforcent plates according to the directions. Here's an example : https://www.amazon.com/Reinforcement-Deadbolt-Reinforcer-Security-Strengthen/dp/B005KP0YGU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=5JNSTA45S9KH&keywords=deadbolt+reinforcement+plate&qid=1572125361&sprefix=deadbolt+re%2Caps%2C240&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTDE2VFdKMFhQTjdSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzM3MDY1QUhNTEs0OEs5TVdZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3Mzc0NjAxOUZCUDgyTkdaQzFTJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
   
   
4. Same for the door lock: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9551-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B000OFTIL8/ref=pd_sim_b2b_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000OFTIL8&pd_rd_r=d5b3c5aa-c731-4c87-9b90-b887a522107f&pd_rd_w=bsuv6&pd_rd_wg=gwiAR&pf_rd_p=a07701e4-f565-442a-b97f-93ab23cbb7ef&pf_rd_r=64PRKZYD4KQJF99M3NNS&psc=1&refRID=64PRKZYD4KQJF99M3NNS
   
   
   
5. as the other poster alluded to the key is to make your house entry less attractive than others. Cameras and lights do wonders. Remove anything that can mask an intruders actions such as shrubs. Also remove items that can be thrown through windows.

If you're planning to throw away your old cameras anyway, you could try these instructions and see if they happen to work for you.

You can easily use your existing CAT5 to power any regular non-PoE camera by attaching a PoE injector at one end to power the cable, and a PoE spitter at the other end to recover the DC power and supply it to a regular non-PoE camera. A kit like this one should do the job.

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You might also be able to find some cameras that will allow you to power via PoE while simultaneously allowing you to connect via WiFi. (More commonly it's either/or.) In that case you'll need just the PoE injector, and plug the cable directly into the camera on the camera side. I know several Amcrest models such as this one will stay connected on both PoE and wifi when the PoE connector is plugged in, so I assume that you could buy a PoE camera, use the CAT5 to power it, and use WiFi for network. (Disclaimer -- I haven't specifically tested using the PoE for power only rather than power+network ... I just think it's likely that it will work.)

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(Edit: Oops ... The Amcrest camera I linked to is not a PoE camera, but it does stay connected simultaneously to wired and WiFi networks. So, I might be wrong in thinking you can find a PoE camera that will also support WiFi while using the PoE jack for power -- but you should definitely be able to buy a camera like the one I linked to and power it by using the inject+splitter route.)

$3895 is a lot too much.

I would go with the 2MP Starlights. These (x6 = 1061.94) are what I would recommend. The seller is extremely reputable, and I've bought a significant amount from him over the years.

I would go with this NVR, with a large WD Purple hard drive. $500-520 Go with the 16 channel, as you can always add more cameras, and not need to get a new NVR.

You can get a 8 Port POE switch for around $160.

I'd go with a bigger screen, 32" minimum.

I’m a big fan of these: https://www.amazon.com/RAB-Lighting-STL360H-Precision-Detection/dp/B000W3YI6W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rab+stealth+360&qid=1555126929&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Only thing I don’t like is having to adjust certain modes by flipping the power switch several times in a sequence and having to scurry up a ladder to check the indicator lights to make sure it set it properly, but once you figure it out it’s easy. Other than that they’re high quality and very reliable with detecting larger moving objects and ignoring stuff like leaves, snow, rain or swaying branches,

> https://www.amazon.com/Swann-SWO-OUS1PA-Outdoor-Siren-White/dp/B00VAIL5I2

good idea, thanks so much for this!

POE is just one method of powering IP cameras.

the advantage of POE is that you are dealing with a single cable.

there's no other inherent advantage to POE vs powering an IP camera through dedicated power cable.

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> What are examples of available power supplies for them from say Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-5-Port-100Mbps-Desktop-Switch/dp/B076PRM2C5/

You don't specify what or where you are trying to monitor (indoor, outdoor, in the rain, available power). But there are plenty of cameras that do what you do ask for.

If the camera follows the ONVIF standard, it can be captured by one of many IPCamera Apps that can pick up the stream. If you are in the Androidverse, I recommend this. I am sure there are similar Apple products. I have this app running on my Nvidia Shield, and if I'm watching the boobtoob, a couple button presses, and all 8 of my cameras are displayed on my TV.


Here are a few ONVIF cameras (just as an example).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_Ro1DzbPHDFZFE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0SN42N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_mp1Dzb7PCXTSB

What do you think of this NVR setup?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHXEHSU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know it may not be as good as going with a PC and blue iris but it's cheaper and much easier.

I've started to work towards that as well. I just added a Dahua PoE camera on my porch with audio but I still want the motion+button+intercom features of a doorbell as well.

Yes, they do need wifi. If all you want a loud sound when it opens you can just get this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=door+alarm&qid=1566172179&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Security-Window-Film-Wide-Roll/dp/B004LDBPY2

Get yourself some window security film. My buddy who used to be a thief said it is the best cheapest most obvious thing that people never think of.

Something like this for the POE Injector should work.

Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.

Optex RCTD-20U Wireless Driveway or Entry Announcer

This sounds like something that would work for you.

As Ralph_Goodman said, security against destructive attacks is limited by the 3/8 shackle size. This one meets your size requirements, and the description says it has a spinner over the core. Pick wise I have no idea, but Stanley has a fair reputation, and it says it has "anti pick pins" (check out BosinanBill or LockPickingLawyer on Youtube and you'll find out what good those pins are).

I've got this though I can't remember off the top of my head if it does PoE or not.

This is horrific, I'm so sorry you have to deal with this. My first thought is very basic, those little door sensors that make a ton of noise when the door is opened.

Something like this

They're not fancy, but would probably be a good solution to scare somebody off until you figure out something more permanent.

Edit: fucking hyperlink, Jesus.

I would suggest a NVR system. It is all in one. You plug the cameras into the back of the box. You can plug a monitor into the box and see all cameras connected. Don't hook it to the internet so it cannot be hacked.

https://www.amazon.com/Surveillance-Supported-Security-Recording-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nvr+reolink&qid=1562792478&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Foscam IP cams can do this. I have this one and it does FTP and email.

I've had it for just over 4 years and have had no problems with it. I'm sure there are newer versions with better resolution and features.

IF you have a camera that allows you to disable the Infrared Illuminators, then you can put a separate IR illuminator also aimed out the window.

I have a similar setup right now, this is the illuminator I used :
https://smile.amazon.com/CMVision-IR130-Outdoor-300-400ft-Illuminator/dp/B004F9LF7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494385222&sr=8-3&keywords=IR+illuminator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMZ2LTB/ref=ods_vicc_blink_xt2_compchart

I can't speak on how silly what you want to do is, because your safety is the most important thing. What you want to do is easy though! You need 3 things:

1: Somehting to make noise, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Swann-SWO-OUS1PA-Outdoor-Siren-White/dp/B00VAIL5I2

2: A button to trigger the siren. Any normal doorbell button will work.

3: A 12vdc power supply

Technically you need 5 things:

4: wire to connect it all

5: someone to do the work.

It's a simple thing, but a bit more than my drunk ass can explain in a comment. You're basically making a reverse doorbell. You push the doorbell, and the people outside hear the siren!