(Part 2) Top products from r/howto

As long as this doesn't go in the oven (or get hotter than 180ºF / 80ºC) of course it can be glued, and with fine, strong (but still slightly visible) results.

u/GondorUr is probably right, it would be easiest to return it and that would have the best results, but...

u/pobroin has the right attitude, considering their appreciation of kintsugi, and so do you, I presume, since you are asking about repairing, rather than replacing.

u/BcookieOmonsterB is right, that cyanoacrylate (Super Glue, Krazy Glue, etc.) works well with ceramics, but cyanoacrylate works best on nonporous surfaces, and when the surfaces fit really well with the least possible gap. On ceramics, especially if not fired to the point of being vitreous, there's often a few grains that will get dislodged in the glue, while fitting the pieces back together, that will stand in the way of ever getting a truly close fit. So...


As this job is a nice clean break, and a simple two pieces. It's the perfect job for a two-part epoxy, which is plenty strong and will fill any small gaps with virtually no loss of strength, unlike cyanoactrylate.

Your best option to repair (rather than replace) is a two-part clear epoxy. Since you're asking about this, I assume you haven't worked with glues much, and are unfamiliar with the process, and may be a bit slower than someone more practiced. Different epoxies have different working or handling times, and since you don't want to rush it, look for longer than 5-minute epoxy (this one gives you a full 30 minutes, but that's a lot longer than you should need for this simple job - look for a 10-minute epoxy).

• Dry fit the two pieces together to make sure they do fit well, and dust off any loose grit or chips that remain on the broken surface. Don't clean the surfaces with any water, soap, or cleaning agents, just a clean dry toothbrush or similar.
  
  
• Lay down some newspaper or something else disposable to protect your table/counter/work-surface (a sheet of parchment paper works really well here, as drips are less likely to stick the paper to your lid). There will almost certainly be drips.
  
  
• Get some tape and have it close to hand for clamping the glued pieces together, later. As the lid has a nice smooth glazed surface,almost any tape will do, but something with just a little bit of stretch, like electrician's tape or duct tape would be best, as you can pull the tape a little tightly across the mend, and the elasticity of the tape will give just a little of a slow steady tug, to help to squeeze out excess glue,and snug the two halves together.
  
  
• Squeeze out equal amounts of resin and hardener (or whatever ratio the instructions recommend, usually it is 1:1, and the double-syringe tubes, like the one I linked to above, help you keep the amounts fairly equal) onto a disposable surface, such as a clean tuna can lid, a piece of parchment paper, the bottom of a soda can,whatever,and stir them together really well with a popsicle stick, a nail, a cuticle stick, or some other disposable applicator. Stir well, making sure scrape all around the edges of the puddle, to incorporate all of the two components, so it is fully and evenly mixed. Also, make sure you mix up more glue than you will need, because you want to do the gluing all in one go, especially if you are using one of the quicker 5-minute epoxies.
  
  
• Place the lid halves on your protected work surface. Using your mixer/applicator, smear a line of epoxy all along the centerline of one of the broken edges, about a third as thick as the edge. Doesn't matter if you go thicker, but don't go much thinner, and do make it a continuous bead, all along, from end to end.
  
  
• Slide your two pieces together, carefully lining them up as accurately as possible. Press them together firmly , keeping your hands down at the edge for the most part, perpendicular to the crack (crack runs north to south, hands at west and east).
  
  
• Take a strip of your tape and stretch it across the glueline, from one piece to the other, down there just above the rim, pulling the tape a bit tight to give it some stretch. Do the same for the other end of the crack, again, just above the rim. (NOTE: you start here at the rim, rather than in the middle, up near the knob/handle, because downward pressure up there at the center, could press the center down, rocking the two outer edged of the two halves up and away from each other. Out at the rim, downward pressure has almost no torque to tip the halves.) Now add about three other strips of tape, spread out along the glueline. (Edit: additional strips, again, go west to east, from one half to the other, across the glue line, not along or in line with the glueline, with a bit of stretch/tension).
  
  
• Flip it over and and place a couple more strips of tape on the underside.
  
  
• Before the glue has cured (hardened), using a clean dry cloth or paper towel and acetone, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol, gently wipe up any excess epoxy that has squeezed out the crack onto the surface.
  
  
• Leave your work undisturbed, to cure, for the recommended amount of time, however long it is, 5, 10, 30 minutes, before handling it any further, and allow a full 24 hours, before putting the lid to work
  
  
• After curing, remove the tape, and use a sharp knife or razor blade to carefully and thoroughly scrape off any excess cured glue there.
  
  
• Wash and proudly put into service.
  
  Edit: Yay! Silver! Thanks for the alms, secret Samaritan.
  
  Edit 2: Clarification added to taping procedure

There was a really good post by /u/LieutenantJesus about this a few months ago. Here it is... the second method has worked REALLY well for me.

"I've shaved my mashers and bang/taint/funhole for years and years, so let me contribute.

So let's assume you've never blessed yourself with a shorn scrotum: There are two methods you can use to rid yourself of hair. I'll go over both, since I've done both extensively.

---

>Shaving:

USE A NEW RAZOR FOR THIS. Old razors deteriorate and the blades get bent/dulled. You don't want dull blades tugging at hairs and nicking you up down there.

1. Trim up. Get a body-hair trimmer like a Norelco Bodygroom or just a regular hair-trimmer and take care most of the bush. Go with the shortest guard it'll allow-- Not using a guard is a good way to get a few nicks, not something you want down in your dangly bits. You want to get yourself short enough where a razor won't get caught and cut you up in masses of hair.
   
   
2. Get in the shower, and get that bitch nice and hot. You don't want to try shaving dry, hell no. Wash your hair, brush your teeth, do all of your regular shower things to give your pubes a bit to get wet and soften up. This'll make it so much easier, trust me.
   
   
3. Start shaving WITH the grain. Make a few passes. Don't press down on the razor, just let it do its job. You won't get it all in one go, and that's fine.
   
   
4. Go across the grain. If your hair looks like this: |||||, shave in this ---> direction, or this <--- direction. The best would be doing a pass of each.
   
   
5. Go against the grain. Now, at this point, if you feel smooth enough, feel free to stop. Going against the grain may cause irritation and ingrown hairs, so know your body and know how your hair responds. The biggest lesson is DO NOT PRESS DOWN ON THE RAZOR. You will only irritate your skin and nick yourself. Be patient and take your damn time.
   
   
6. Finish the job. If you shave your dick, you must also shave your balls, otherwise you might as well just not even do it. It may be scary the first time taking a razor to your jumblies, but it's simple and quite safe, if you're careful (For the record, I've never nicked myself shaving down below, yet I can butcher my face when I'm not careful). Just take the sack in one hand and GENTLY pull it to stretch the skin, and run the razor lightly over it, front and back, starting the stroke from the underside of your dick and dragging down towards your feet. Don't bother too much with grain direction here, it won't matter that much.
   
   
7. The Gooch/Ass/Asshole: You should also run over these areas with a hair trimmer/bodygroom before you go at it with a razor. The secret here is the same as the rest of your sensitive bits: Go slow, don't press down with the razor, and relax. The taint is tricky, but you can navigate it by feel pretty well. The ass/asshole is simple, except for the hole. If you're shaving your ass, you aren't gonna leave the hole hairy, so when you shave it, shave starting from the pucker and stroke AWAY. Do not shave ACROSS the sphincter, else you're just asking for a rough ride. Remember: DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE RAZOR.
   
   For your balls, you might want to make a run over them later when you're dry. Helps get those stray hairs.
   
   >Post-Shave Care:
   
   Once you get out, pat-dry the areas you've shaved. If you get razor burn, get some Vitamin E cream or moisturizer and spread a little down there. This will help the skin heal, and probably cool things off. I like to pat a little Gold Bond down there, because if I'm going to be fancy enough to shave my balls, I'm going to powder them like an English Nobleman.
   
   Itching: This is normal if this is your first time shaving/it's been a while since you've shaved. You shouldn't itch as bad or even at all the second time around, so just tough it out.
   
   Farts: You'd better be ready, because you can no longer sneak these fuckers. The bare skin will amplify your ass air to trumpet-like levels. Be prepared to use your flesh-valve a lot more efficiently after this.
   
   Sweat: You might feel like your ass/gooch is a lot sweatier than usual. It's not, you just lack friction from your now-missing hair down there. Invest in some boxer-briefs if it bothers you. You get used to this as well.
   
   ---
   >Depilatory Creams
   
   Alright, so now that we've covered shaving, let's discuss using chemical hair removers. I wouldn't use Nair on your private parts, you will burn yourself. You have to find something for sensitive skin (Which I'm sure Nair has now). I am a fan of Magic Shave. It's a powder you mix with water, then slather all over your crotch, wait a while, then rub off gently with a washcloth. You can get if off Amazon, or find it at most any drugstore in the shaving/hair removal aisle. Takes the hair right off and leaves you SMOOTH AS FUCK. It's messier and takes a little more time, but it's worth it in the end.
   
   They do sell it as a pre-mixed cream, but ever time I've used it it's been very lackluster, even after leaving it on for several minutes past the recommended time.
   
   
8. Test it somewhere like your inner thigh. Mix a small bit, put it on for the prescribed amount of time (7 or so minutes, in my case), and wash it off. Wait a day to see if there are any adverse effects. Skipping this step is not recommended, seeing as a small allergic reaction on your thigh is a lot easier to handle than one all over your fucking dick.
   
   
9. Mix. I use a mason jar, put in equal parts of the power and water, and shake it up. The I use something like a rubber spatula to scoop it out and slather it from dick (Try to limit getting any on the glans. It won't kill you, but you don't generally want depilatory cream on sensitive membranes like that) to asshole. The more you use, the better. Be sure to place a towel under you/do this in the tub to catch any that might drip.
   
   
10. Wait. Set a timer and just stand around a bit. Brush your teeth. Floss. I don't care, just wait out the 5-7 minutes.
    
    
11. Hop in the shower. Lukewarm water is the best for this stuff, I'd avoid going really hot though. Grab a washcloth and slowly rub the stuff off in a circular motion while under the stream. You might have to give some hairs a gentle tug to get them out, but it shouldn't take you any real effort. You may miss spots, and that's okay, you can get them next time. You should probably have a set washcloth just for this, because Magic Shave does have a tendency to stain.
    
    
12. Pat dry. If you left it on a little too long, it might feel somewhat like razor burn. Use some Vitamin E/Moisturizing cream on it and dial the time back a little next time.
    
    
    
    All in all, I much prefer using Magic Shave to rid myself of hair, because it leaves me MUCH smoother and isn't as expensive as wearing razor cartridges out. Enjoy shaving, and know that your girlfriend/boyfriend will REALLY appreciate it."

Ajax Powder Cleanser with Bleach, 14 oz (396 g) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005UVD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1LxWDbMHJ0SG1

Use this, wear gloves, follow directions, basically sprinkle it on, toss on some water, give the tub a quick one time scrub (this one time scrub isn’t meant to clean anything, it’s just to lather up the powder and distribute it throughout the tub.)

let this lather sit in the tub for half an hour or so, then come back and use one of these on the tub with your power drill:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9M667G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8OxWDbYEPS81H
(note this item isn’t available at Lowe’s or Home Depot so order it now and get the shipping process started)

If you don’t have a power drill, you can also use those green scrub scour pads, but man you arm and especially your wrist will be exhausted and you risk hurting or injuring it (ESPECIALLY YOUR WRIST) again wear gloves because this is a dirty job lol.

Anyway rinse as you go, I use a little container of water to help rinse the rest of the tub and other hard to reach places.

You might have to repeat this process a couple more times to get it perfectly clean. There’s also a chance that once you get it all clean that the tub itself has harder discoloration or stains, at that point you might consider just replacing the tub. They can be relatively cheap, even under $300 or so.

source: I just really like cleaning tubs lol

You could get some 2-ton epoxy and carefully apply it around the hinges with a small disposable brush (like the ones that come with kid's watercolor paint sets). This stuff cures to be hard as a rock, clear, it adheres nicely to metal, and should provide the support you need. Don't get 5 minute epoxy because that isn't as strong and turns yellow.

Just be sure to carefully measure out equal parts resin and hardener and THOROUGHLY mix them. I mean mix them for like a full 2 minutes. Otherwise the epoxy may not cure properly and might come out tacky.

The epoxy starts to set up in about 30 minutes after you have mixed it, so you will have enough time to apply it to the hinges. After you apply it however, you will want to keep turning the glasses over in your hands otherwise gravity will cause the epoxy to sag. 2-ton epoxy is frequently used as a protective clear coat on custom fishing lures, and lure builders like myself make "turners" like this to prevent sagging. Obviously you're not going to want to build one but you can accomplish the same thing by slowly rotating the glasses around by hand for a minimum of 30 minutes, an hour would be better. After that is done just let it cure however long it says on the package.

I really liked "drawing with your artists brain" https://www.amazon.com/dp/1581808119/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mWJhzb3MWYY09

And "drawing comics the marvel way" https://www.amazon.com/dp/0671530771/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kXJhzbAC00TH6


Both different but great for building your skill fast and fun.

I have one of these, this one is pretty cheap and has good reviews, works really well, and takes a little time to make it perfect

Bar-keeper's friend and elbow grease.That is sure to clean this up real nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992

herer you go bud

http://www.amazon.de/Maydaygames-Prot%C3%A8ge-Cartes-70x110mm-Perdues/dp/B004O5SUFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=mayday+games+70+X+110+MM

Also, acid free paper won't be an issue if you have these sleeved. the sleeves are acid and PVC free too. so just make a tuck box from whatever you want I guess. but if you want acid free, try a framing store, they may have backing paper you can buy.

Of course, millimetres, edited.

Thanks for the advice. 2 Problems: I'm from Europe and I didn't find these Mayday sleeves on Amazon europe. 2nd: How do I make sure the paper is acid free? I guess I got to order one specifically for that purpose...?

Edit: Okay I found 87x112....better than nothing I'd say.... http://www.amazon.de/Mayday-Oversized-Dungeon-Sleeves-Munchkin/dp/B00CXWTH8Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1409696329&sr=8-8&keywords=mayday+games+sleeves


Edit: And I found the 70x110...at some strange language: http://www.amazon.de/Maydaygames-Prot%C3%A8ge-Cartes-70x110mm-Perdues/dp/B004O5SUFO/ref=sr_1_47?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1409696941&sr=1-47&keywords=Mayday+Games

[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)

Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.

Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.

You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.

You could make a custom extension using a moldable thermoplastic like instamorph. You soften the plastic with a hair dryer or by submerging it in boiling water and then you can form it into whatever shape you like.

Just be sure it's up to code, as other people in this thread have mentioned.

She's not the original artist and the text is lifted as well from the book these images were taken from. It's "How to Draw Comic the Marvel Way"

It's kinda funny I recognize the boob drawings.

This...

http://www.amazon.com/MAGIC-Gold-SHAVE-GOLD-4-5oz/dp/B0048ZIFA0

I've used Magic Gold Powder a number of times and it works amazing. No razor burn. No getting yer balls caught in the trimmer. This stuff is awesome.

Mix it up. Apply it all over. Wait 7 or 8 minutes and then wipe it off with a facecloth. Baby smooth.

I tested a number of epoxies on plastics, and found JB Weld PlasticWeld to hold the best on the various plastics I tried. There are a variety of types of plastics, and what works on one won't hold another.

I love this tool for anything that requires scrubbing :

Drillbrush Bathroom Surfaces Tub, Shower, Tile and Grout All Purpose Power Scrubber Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLZ43B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1TmvDbDK76FNS

Conair Fabric Defuzzer - Shaver; Battery Operated; White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I25368/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0jxtDb411QP62

These things are great for all sorts of things.

I painted my stairwell this weekend and used this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001MQI9E. worked great.

Edit: I also used a 10 or 12 ft extension.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-211566803-Replacement-Single-Headphones/dp/B001DFX2OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422645236&sr=8-3&keywords=mdr-v6+replacement+pads&pebp=1422645255579&peasin=B001DFX2OC

or if you want to get fancy, these are pretty comfy too:

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-EDT250V-Headphone-Pads-Black/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422645248&sr=8-2&keywords=mdr-v6+replacement+pads&pebp=1422645316011&peasin=B0016MF7W2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLZ43B/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MRLZ43B&pd_rd_w=h272w&pf_rd_p=c83c55b0-5d97-454a-a592-a891098a9709&pd_rd_wg=kKRQH&pf_rd_r=92EFJ7D5RWBHEAXFPEZ5&pd_rd_r=baf703b6-0ee3-44e6-9290-164d12a33f01&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExT1JCRVdOV1NYSDhPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ5NzY5Mlc2UkI3RTk5Q05VRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDMxMjIzMk4yM0lRTVNIVDNONiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

This will save you a lot of effort..

I would check the other replies you have received, but these two look promising: /u/princessunicorn : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEH5H58

/u/afranke :

https://www.amazon.com/Create-King-Instant-Connector-2-Inch/dp/B00438S56Q

Maybe try barkeepers friend. https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Liquid-Cleaner/dp/B007UTJR7G

sorry if it's too late, but what about a leather and vinyl repair kit? it seems the biggest challenge is getting the color to match, but perhaps that wouldn't matter as much? here is the link on amazon.

I used Barkeeper's Friend and a non-scratching Scotch-Brite sponge. Just noticed they have a special stove version... though the regular works for me. Can be picked up at Target, Walmart, etc.

Seal it with something like this.

Then cover it with insulating curtains.

https://www.amazon.com/CLR-Calcium-Remover-Enhanced-Formula/dp/B00009EFEX

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Ajax-Powder-Cleanser-Bleach-396/dp/B00005UVD9

Then why is there a product literally designed to make MagSafe less of a piece of shit?

If you have a Mac you can try THIS.

It's supposed to make it harder for the cord to unplug.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEH5H58 This worked for me!

Same item, but desktop site:
Shur-Line 500 Premium Paint Edger

My go to would be modable plastic

​

https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FVJT0JSSW1NJFE23J74N

http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992

https://www.amazon.com/Create-King-Instant-Connector-2-Inch/dp/B00438S56Q

What about leather repair kit? https://www.amazon.com/LeatherNu-Complete-Leather-Restoration-Repair/dp/B003XZQQZM

Plastic repair putty?

It comes in a lot of different types but here's one:

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=repair+plastic&qid=1557279118&s=gateway&sr=8-3

That's the stuff. The whole kit is here. The heat-shrink plastic eliminates wrinkles and renders the fix invisible.

Always keep this stuff handy! Warning, it removes paint.

These are either MDR-7506 or the MDR-V6 and either way, you have a stellar pair of headphones right there. I roll the MDR-7506 myself and for the money, you won't find a better technical listening experience. If you replace your pads with the Beyerdynamic Velour Earcups you will find slightly better isolation, increased comfort, and even clearer bass. Here's a link to them on Amazon, but shop around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016MF7W2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LNbZub1T1DBBB

You'll need to pry off the old ones along the edges. Once you get a bit off, the rest should slide off with it. Just be gentle with the edges so you don't bend anything out of shape and harm the isolation quality.

I’m late to the thread, so I’m putting this here.

My next door neighbor specializes in various sorts of bad dogs. Over the years she’s brought in a rogue’s gallery of bark freaks. Now she’s outdone herself with a pit bull that wants to taste my cat’s blood. The cat is a veteran hunter and more cunning than the dog, so he’s managed to weather multiple close calls. During the last year I’ve caught the dog in the act four or five times and lit it up with my CO2 powered pellet pistol… problem solved, I hope. The gun doesn’t draw blood on the dog, but it stings like hell.

This is a dog that ran right past me, yelling at it, to go after my cat. Now it’s gotten to where, if the dog sees me outside, it slinks off and hides. If it’s barking interminably late at night, it shuts the fuck up when I go out and yell at it.

I don't have it now because my neighbor stole it, but my favorite thing for uncontrolled barkers was the PetSafe Outdoor Bark Control. It worked for me but, if it doesn’t work for you, added pellet gun reinforcement right on top of the ultrasonic might just do the trick. Don’t ignore the instruction about using hearing protection when you’re setting it up.

sound generators to stop dog barking 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 and 5 and 6 and 6 If you read reviews at Amazon you will see that those type of people are known as "inconsiderate assholes" My neighbors plunked a dog in their backyard on Feb. 7th this year. Obviously purchased the dog based on his barking abilities. Great Dane. Wiki says a lifespan of 6-8 years. Fuck if I'm am going to spend the remainder of my life(old person) listening to a dog barking nonstop for hours on end. Our city has a law that says > 30 min illegal. I started calling the cops after I saw nothing was being done to shut the dog up. After the forth time the cops showed up I think a cop that had been there before showed up and was pissed. That and the legal paperwork the city sent the "inconsiderate assholes" nipped the problem in the bud, at least temporarily. The type of people that allow their dog to bark nonstop feel entitled. I expect the barking to start back up one of these days. Then it will be lawsuit time.

If I end up getting a lawyer. Security system, DVR, with 4 cameras and 85 foot infrared range. Additional infrared illuminators. Microphone. Graphic equalizer software. Aim 3 cameras and illuminators into neighbors backyard. Aim 4th camera at graphic equalizer software display running on computer. It is against the law to record conversations here so the owners are in the backyard with just a microphone could end up being illegal. Related links. 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 and 5 and 6 and 7 and 8 and 9

Seinfeld: Elaine Benes dognapping episode.

In your case possibly"you can't squeeze blood from a turnip".

Another idea is to record the dog barking. Play it back as a loop at an increased volume. When the neighbors are sleeping would be a good time. If you have a few thousand bucks you could use an LRAD speaker to beam the sound.