(Part 2) Top products from r/htpc

Some suggestions for keyboard/mice:

Lenovo N5902. Goes on sale regularly.

Logitech K400

Generic keyboard/touchpad remote. There are many slight variants on this.

I've found that due to the size/shape/content of my living room, a wireless receiver plugged into my HTPC doesn't work 100% reliably. I've connected a USB extension cable to the back of my HTPC and run it behind things and under my couch to give me the best reception. Generally you can go up to 15 feet; any longer than that and you need a powered extension.

If you have a Logitech Harmony remote, I highly recommend the OVU4003/00 (RC6) USB IR reciever. Once set up with Windows and the Harmony remote, it works with XBMC/Kodi out of the box. This receiver was branded as HP/Dell/Gateway/Philips and probably many more. A Flirc is another option but it is ugly (IMO) and more expensive.

Regarding hardware, if you aren't gaming you don't need a lot. When using older gear the most important thing is video hardware acceleration. For Intel machines, you need something with at least GMA 4500 (Q45 chipset) graphics or later, and for AMD you need something with at least a 760G chipset. This hardware dates back to 2008/2009. Dedicated graphics cards should be at least a Radeon HD 2600 or a GeForce 8500. These cards date back to 2006/2007. CPUs are a grey area, but any mainstream dual core CPU (Athlon X2, Core 2 Duo) from 2007+ should be able to handle most everything. My first HTPC had an AMD Athlon X2 5000+ and it's still working just fine with W7 and Kodi.

If you want to game (and don't want to use a device like the DOKO), you'll need to find a quiet case that supports full length video cards. There are a bunch available, and I'm not sure if this has changed in the last 2-3 years, but the vast majority of HTPC cases large enough to support full size gear and M-ATX motherboards are simply too long to fit in a standard A/V rack or TV stand. The only exceptions I am aware of are the Silverstone GD05 and GD04. I'd be willing to bet that Silverstone has some other cases that will work also.

Additionally, you'll want to find a PSU, case fans and CPU cooler that are quiet and efficient. The best resource for this is http://www.silentpcreview.com/.

Lastly, if your A/V receiver has only S/PDIF audio inputs (no HDMI) and you want to play games in 5.1 surround sound, you're going to need to find either a sound card or motherboard with an S/PDIF output that supports DTS-Connect and/or Dolby Digital Live. Motherboards stopped coming with this around 2008 (AFAIK) and the cheapest option to get it in an add-on card is the Sound Blaster Z.

I thought I would share my cheap HTPC build. It was made mostly from parts I had sitting around.

Basically, it is:

• A Lenovo M90P PC, but is not the SFF (Small Form Factor) version. Mine has an i5 Core 650 with 8GB of RAM. Note that this is a BTX motherboard, so it's not compatible with ATX parts.
  
  
• 128GB Samsung Pro 840 SSD for the OS.
  
  
• Two WD Red 4TB drives, setup in a Storage Pool under Windows 10. I also sync my library to a backup server and to a second external HDD. (I previously only had one, but it overheated and died, I did not have backups, and I lost my entire library! That is why I am doing this again.)
  
  
• A CPU fan controller.
  
  
• A HDD cooling fan added to each WD drive. The fans keep the HDDs around 87F - 93F degrees, which is acceptable considering this is in the same small cabinet with my stereo receiver, Tivo, and PS3, which all get pretty warm when running.
  
  
• Added a Lian Li MF-699 3-fan bay cooler to add air flow.
  
  
• Asus Xonar sound card
  
  
• EVGA GeForce GT 610 video card with an HDMI output
  
  
• This little wireless keyboard
  
  
• One of these power adapters which allowed me to plug in the two HDD fans with MOLEX connectors (as the Lenovo only has SATA power connectors)
  
  
• Passmark disk checkup utility to monitor the temps of the HDDs. This is required because using Storage Pools prevents most HDD monitoring software from working. Passmark actually monitors the drives at the system level, not at the "Drive letter" level.
  
  And that's it.
  
  It is running Windows 10, a Plex media server and media player, and a PlayOn server.
  
  I use the sound card because the built-in one either didn't support 5.1 or did not support 5.1 through Plex. It connects to my AVR.
  
  I use the video card to get an HDMI output, which goes through a 5-port HDMI switcher (my 3 other devices, including a Steam Link plus one spare port), and then to my projector (which only has 2 HDMI inputs and obviously doesn't have sound, hence the AVR).
  
  I hope this is inspiration that you don't have to spend a lot to get a fully functional HTPC.

I have a Logitech K400 for the family room and a K830 for my bedroom.

Everyone in my house loves the K400 and it handles being treated like a remote (tossed on the couch, falling on the rug etc) very well.

Only thing is this: I personally turn off tap to click, tap to drag and a bunch of other stuff to keep me from accidentally clicking and dragging and zooming whenever I touch the touchpad. But the K400's software (SetPoint) doesn't retain its settings very well and I find myself doing all that crap anyway and having to re-apply my settings quite often.

So if you're considering the K400, I suggest focusing on the K400 Plus which is basically the same thing but uses newer software that actually retains whatever settings you want.

The K830 is very nice but it's pricey and was a bit of a splurge. The backlight is great, the software (Logitech Options) retains its settings and it has a premium feel to it. Honestly though, its a very close experience to the K400/K400 plus so I wouldn't spring for anything besides a 50 dollar refurbished one.

Just for reference, I've also used a Lenovo N5902. Although backlit, the sensor thingy was pretty awkward to use so I upgraded to this Iogear Multimedia Keyboard. It was comfortable to use but the trackball didn't survive long being used my my gf's kids. The keycaps would pop off as well. I've also used just a wireless keyboard and mouse which was a pain.

> The other smaller harmony remotes have a terrible button layout with half the navigation controls at the top.

As someone who's used a Touch/Ultimate One ($120USD for this is a pretty solid deal) for the past 4+ years, you get used to the nav controls being at the top. In fact I don't even notice it anymore, the hand shift is so second-nature. The back is contoured to be held nicely in either position (think how a N64 controller works, for example -- it looks stupid, but it's comfortable in any position).

I've been using Harmony remotes long enough that it would be more painful to switch to something else.

> Logitech is absolutely gouging with there cost of these remotes because they know no one else makes any thing decent.

True enough, and they're not wrong. But you can often find refurb sales at really good prices. My last two or three Harmony remotes have all been refurbs and they were perfect out of the box. And hundreds of dollars cheaper.

> The shield? I don't have one unfortunately, but I really don't want anything like a phone where I have to interface with a screen..

The Shield remote is a minimal button remote similar to a Fire TV or Apple TV remote. But it has a touch slider area that can be mapped to things like Volume control or gestures (at least it can be done on the Shield itself; not sure if you can do that on a PC). So while it only has 2 or 3 buttons and a d-pad, the touchpad gives more control than you'd get with an Apple or Fire remote. Probably a pain in the butt to get working on PC, though.

And I 100% agree with you about phone interfaces, or anything non-tactile. I rely almost entirely on muscle memory, and while I do use my Harmony's touch display, it's for rare tasks or tasks where I'm fine with looking at the remote, like switching Activities or starting everything up for the first time. I'd never use the touch screen for nav controls, for example, even though Logitech has a gesture screen just for that.

I have a Harmony Home Hub, Harmony Ultimate, and Harmony Keyboard.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Keyboard-Ultimate-Remotes/dp/B00LTKGFCW?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00LTKGFCW

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Entertainment-915-000238/dp/B01KIKBZ5K?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ipad-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01KIKBZ5K

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Ultimate-One-Universal/dp/B00IAKLM54?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00IAKLM54

That gets you 1 remote that powers everything, 1 keyboard that can also control everything (meaning even if you just want to interact with your ps4, you can do it through the keyboard OR the remote) and a hub that ALSO allows you to control everything with your phone, control other smart home stuff (like lights) and keeps everything in sync (so they keyboard and remote both know the "state" of all of the devices, which input everything should be on, etc).

​

We have an 8 month old who's starting to crawl so i've been downsizing tech to prevent him from breaking stuff.

​

I just sold my HTPC and am looking to sell my harmony gear as a package. PM me and we can talk price cause its perfect for you. I just want it to end up in a good home.

This Lenovo Multimedia Remote is my favorite for a nondescript keyboard/mouse combo that's perfectly at home on a coffee table. It's extremely comfortable in your hand and is a nice, compact all-in-one controller for an HTPC. If you keep your eye out you occasionally see it go on sale for around $30. It's back-lit and works quite well, though the range leaves some to be desired. Get a USB extension and locate the receiver somewhere in the open for best results.

Also, the Logitech Dinovo Mini is quite popular but I don't have personal experience with it. I'd like to pick one up if it ever drops below $40 or so but I've been content enough with my Lenovo remote to not have a need to pay more to replace it.

With any HTPC, however, I strongly recommend having a cheap wireless KB+M combo hidden behind your couch or in a drawer for times when you need to spend time on the PC side. Doing extensive install/configuration or troubleshooting with just a basic HTPC remote will drive you nuts otherwise.

The ultimate remote. Literally.

I bought one of these when I moved in with my now wife a few years ago. She didn't like my collection of remotes and remote keyboard, she just wanted to be able to turn on Bravo. Best thing I ever did. Automating activities makes turning things on/off correctly a snap. For a keyboard you can get one of these. Whatever you turn on that accepts a bluetooth keyboard - PC, PS4, Fire TV, whatever - the keyboard is automatically connected to it. I wouldn't try playing Quake on it, but it works great for web browsing. Battery in the remote dies? No problem, open up the Harmony app on a phone or tablet and work it that way while the remote charges.

I've since set up cheaper Harmony Companions to control the bedroom TVs, since I use Xbox 360s as media center extenders for live TV. My daughter has some Philips smart bulbs and it controls them as well. Overall I've come to love Harmony Hub based products, they just work.

The Logitech K400/K400 Plus is always going to be your best bet when it comes to wireless keyboards/trackpads, but as for the remote you should probably just look for a used WMC RC-6 USB receiver like the old HP receiver that you see all over for sale for $5-10 shipped, and you can pair it with any of the Logitech Harmony remotes or my personal favorite is the Inteset 4-in-1 Universal Backlit IR Learning Remote. I have a few of these around the house, and they have backlit buttons and they work with not only televisions and other gadgets but it also does Windows Media Center and apps like Kodi, Plex, Emby, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M4I1BAY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly, your best bet is to build 2 PCs. Ideally, one would be a file server + XBMC, and the other would be able to use a shared XBMC library.

If you're dead set on having only one PC, there are some workarounds. First, look into long HDMI cables. These can get pricey and come with all sorts of caveats (HDMI only supports 15' on the spec, but better shielding can do wonders; Blue Jeans Cable is a good starting point for long runs). If your bedroom setup is mouse and keyboard (vs using a controller), look into USB extenders. These can be up to 15', and I've had better results with USB3 vs USB2. If its using a controller (ie Steam Big Picture), look into a Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows.

Wireless display technology isn't there for any sort of gaming that requires quick inputs yet.

yeah better, but what is better about the Logitech than this one from Microsoft that has more functionality and normal price is less than the sale price of the Logitech?

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Media-Keyboard-N9Z-00001/dp/B00IICMUWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468949938&sr=8-1&keywords=microsoft+wireless+keyboard+touchpad


This is the one I have been using and love it.


edit: nevermind , I see its the illumination that makes it more expensive.

OK, so for remote I use this with a flirc. That way I have a truly universal remote with physical buttons (better for operating in the dark) for not a lot of cash. I do have a Logitech K400 for the rare times when I need a full keyboard.

For a case, I have the Silverstone ML03B. Small form factor and really blends with the other components. Depending on your CPU, you may not even need an aftermarket cooler. I have the i3 4130T with a stock cooler and it's dead silent. I built 2 years ago, and at the time, the only gaming I was doing was emulating old-school NES through some Gamecube. EDIT: So I only used the intel integrated graphics (HD 4400). /EDIT If you do want/need a GPU, you'd need a half-height to fit the case. Just last week I picked up a GTX 750 ti. It improved Dolphin emulation dramatically, and runs Skyrim at 1080p on Ultra settings at 60 fps.

Hopefully that answered some of your questions. If you have any more, feel free to ask.

>I need something that can get me closer to the tv

Small font size can be a problem with HTPCs, which is why good HTPC software includes a 10 foot user interface. These include XBMC and kylo for internet browsing.

>something with a keyboard and mouse tray

Aside from PC gaming, you can avoid this requirement with some research. merreborn's suggestion looks promising. I use a gyration air music remote and love it. Even with PC gaming, many people find game-pads more living-room friendly. With the right software, you can even use a game-pad as a mouse/keyboard replacement.

>I would also prefer the chair to be small enough to fit in a corner of the room when I'm not using it.

When you can do everything from the couch, it makes any extra sometimes-used furniture completely unnecessary.

For anything you need to do that isn't available in a 10' UI (such as torrenting or the like), consider a netbook or tablet for computing from the couch.

In any case, I would recommend getting in the paradigm of using an HTPC from the couch. It's such a better experience... or else move your TV to your desk. I've done the chair-in-the-living-room thing, and its the worst of both worlds.

I've used Harmony remotes and now switched to Inteset INT-422. Remote is great and comfortable to hold.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4I1BAY

Only comment I have is that the WD Green drives sometimes have a mind of their own when it comes to power management. I've got one as a storage drive in my PC and I often need to wait for it to spin up (about 3-5 seconds) at the oddest times.

Often, it will spin up only when I try to access a file (as opposed to just browsing the file lists). This, in turn, causes the application opening the file to freeze sometimes.

It's not a big deal on my PC when I'm trying to use CBR Reader or VLC. However, it might be a huge annoyance on an HTPC.

Edit: Try the Caviar Blue from WD instead.

ic, in that case make sure you find one with display port and get an active display port to HDMI adapter so you can run 4k @ 60hz. The HDMI port on that card isn't 2.0. Even if you're connecting to a PC monitor for 4k you'll still want to use display port since it has enough bandwidth to support 4k.

I was going down the same road and ended up just getting a larger case. Went from an Antec ISK 110 to this monstrosity. But it's still silent at least.

Looks like Gigabyte has something.

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GV-N75TOC-2GL-Graphics-Cards/dp/B00MW8NXAW

Those components wont likely fit, but even if they did you wouldn't want to use such dated parts. I put together this NUC for my father recently. All he does is watch a lot of Youtube videos and surfs news websites. Here is a parts list you could consider:

Intel NUC $127

RAM $28


SSD $45

This doesn't include a copy of windows... which you can get license for off of various sources such as Kinguin for less than $40. Or if you're cool with it, there are various versions of linux which you can run for free.

2 best options:

1. Buy a PCIe card with USB 3.0 headers - $20ish - something like this or this - both around $16-$20 - you'll get full USB 3.0 speeds
   
   
2. If you just want a cheap option, you can get a USB 2.0 -> USB 3.0 cable. The front ports will only run at USB 2.0 speeds (WAY slow), but if you don't care much it's an OK option

What i have:
Logitech Smart Keyboard

Previously Had: IOGEAR Multimedia Keyboard with Laser Trackball and Scroll Wheel, 2.4GHz Wireless GKM561R (Black)

Plus some candybar sized ones.. and im pretty certian the K400 or an earlier version of it.. its not coming up in my amazon orders.

Thanks for the input. I wasn't able to get that system as the guy sold it already.

I'm just thinking about building my own instead of getting a used one. Is a combo motherboard/cpu good or should I buy them separately (will raise cost by maybe $100).

What do you think about the following? I'm open to suggestions (probably will build in couple of weeks).

• Motherboard/CPU Combo
  
  
• 4GB Ram
  
  
• 120GB SSD
  
  
• Sentey case
  
  I have Windows 7 that I'll be installing.

An HDMI switch will only let you select 1 HDMI from (however many switch supports). The receiver would also be your sound system amplifier.

So something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376704148&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

(Not one I own, just the first 5 port one I saw.)

For least headache, make sure it supports HDCP.

I just purchased a Rii Mini i13 which sounds like it might be a more user friendly version of what you were using previously. It is currently being shipped so I don't have experience with it yet, but it looks promising.

I can second this recommendation.

I recently purchased this model;

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-GD04B-USB3-0-Aluminum-Computer/dp/B008J0ZODQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412064837&sr=1-2&keywords=silverstone+GD0

What I really like about these is that they are much shallower from back to front than normal ATX cases (even many so-called HTPC cases). As such, they actually fit on an a/v rack and blend well with other a/v equipment in terms of size.

This particular model supports up to 3x 3.5" drives, or 2x 3.5" + 1 2.5". If you want to include an optical drive, you lose one 3.5" mounting point.

It will not play HDR but will play other 4k hevc 10bit content. If you plan on using 4k in the future, some of the apollo lake products have hdmi 2.0 via dp > hdmi 2.0 converter chip and some do not. Without hdmi 2.0 they are only capable of 4k @ 30hz instead of 60hz. This is the nuc I have. There were alot of problems originally with the dp > Hdmi 2.0 converter chip. They have to have firmware updates that can only be done in windows. Hopefully by now they are being shipped with the updated firmware.

https://www.amazon.com/INTEL-NUC-Kit-Component-BOXNUC6CAYH/dp/B01MSZTD8N/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521223886&sr=8-1&keywords=apollo%2Blake%2Bnuc&dpID=41dZHytPdjL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

There is a solution. I used to think like this as well, until a friend of mine showed me his setup with a Microsoft Media Keyboard. It has a multi-gesture touchpad on it that works with the mouse for when navigating things like netflix.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IICMUWS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For build quality and price, the thing is great.

There is also the Logitech k800 and k830(backlit) versions that are a little edgier and slicker looking, but you pay a premium for em.

Since then, I can't go to anything but windows 8.1

I've got something similar from Alibaba/Aliexpress. Mine's got an extra row of dedicated function keys. Note they don't have a stop key, record key or windows media centre key. I remapped those onto the mail button, media player button and home button using autohotkey.

mine looks like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Rechargable-Battery-Black/dp/B00Z81U3YY/ref=pd_sim_421_12?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00Z81U3YY&pd_rd_r=3722NAJZ2M278TJHKC9A&pd_rd_w=cciwy&pd_rd_wg=NH0Tw&psc=1&refRID=3722NAJZ2M278TJHKC9A

Case - Antec ISK110 DC Powered

MB - ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+

APU - AMD A-10 6700 4-Core 3.7GHz 65W

Cooling - Noctua NH-L9A Low Profile

Memory - Crucial DDR3 1866 2 X 4GB

Disks(Internal) - 2 X Crucial M4 64GB SSD

Disks(External) - StarTech e-SATA enclosure w/ 2 X 1TB WD Blue HDD

Optical Disk(External) - Vantec USB2 enclosure w/ Sony Optiarc BluRay Drive

OS:

• Win7 w/Media Center + BluRay + Steam
  
  
• Linux Mint 17 + XBMC + Steam (to be replaced w/SteamOS)
  
  
  
  
  
  

I recommend using the following keyboard for HTPC.
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad Mouse, LED Backlit, Rechargable Li-ion Battery-Black
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z81U3YY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

• Small and light enough to keep on a side table.
  
• Controls both mouse/keyboard
  
• USB RF has good range and doesn't require line of sight.
  
  Note: I also have a IR universal remote for basic HTPC functions. If I need to leave WMC/Kodi then I usually switch to the keyboard/mouse.

I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQU9NVK. Works great for me.

You can get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hausbell-H7-Wireless-Entertainment-Keyboard/dp/B00B9996LA/ref=lp_1194464_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406826186&sr=1-12

Or if you don't like the touch pad you can get a motion sensing remote like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Onedayshop%C2%AE-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-3-Gsensor/dp/B00KXLS1GQ/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406826313&sr=1-11&keywords=htpc

I use one of these (came with my little nettop), which removes the need for a mouse/keyboard tray:

http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Multimedia-Remote-Keyboard-N5901/dp/B0036VO67I

I wouldn't want to surf reddit with one, but it's good enough for starting a movie.

If I were you, I would use the old PC to run XBMC to play all your local files, Chromecast to play Netflix, and PS3 for blu-rays. To setup your old computer just grab a DVI-to-HDMI adapter for your 8800GT and use a toslink cable for 5.1 audio assuming this is your motherboard. If you do not have a toslink port then grab one of these to get audio, just know it'll only be 2.0. If you upgraded your graphics card to a 6450 you'd get HD audio and video through HDMI.

I have two of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4I1BAY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_id59wbGNYG721) and I love them. They are completely backlit, they have codes for pretty much any device but they also have learning capabilities so our can copy any IR signal. You can also have set up macros, I have mine turn on the TV then sound system with the power button.

Mini keyboard imho as you can pretty much do evening with the right side of the keyboard

(Updated, Backlit) Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad Mouse, LED Backlit, Rechargable Li-ion Battery-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z81U3YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IYfaCb7Q2P1YS

You can use a pci-e card with front header connections. You can buy a cheap SSD and graphic card which should be good enough for media streaming and stuff.

Something like this Kingston? 120gb is same price as 60gb, so looks like a decent deal.

The models that end in "H" all support 2.5" drives:

i5 - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXD54250WYKH1-Core-i5-4250U-Graphics/dp/B00HZDLNWO/

i3 - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DisplayPort-i3-4010U-Consumer-BOXD34010WYKH1/dp/B00HOJAVDG/

Celeron - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DN2820FYKH-Celeron-N2820-support/dp/B00HVKLSVC/

XBMC Remote, Gmote remote and Unified Remote are all Android apps that I use for controlling my htpc from my phone and tablet. I also have a wireless keyboard, a cheapo Windows Media remote (have never used) and that lenovo. All have their uses.

We use something like this

Yep. Digital signal to other digital signal is no problem.

Gefen DVI to HDMI Cable 6 Feet, Male-Male 6 Feet, CAB-DVI2HDMI-06MM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IHxvyb5CSVKZ1

Then you can just get one of these for audio

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RIxvyb94BT3D5

As far as replacing the 'cabinet' (assume you mean computer case), that may be a little harder. You need to find out what size motherboard you have in there (ATX / mATX / ITX) and if the power supply is a standard size. I know sometimes prebuilt suppliers like dell use strange form factors designed only for their own hardware / cases.

Silver stone makes really nice htpc cases. But again, you're probably going to want a mATX / ITX motherboard to fit in some of the smaller form factor cases. Might be a problem if yours is ATX

Right. From what I have seen, it will be a better deal to buy the bundle with the hub than to buy each separately. Though if you are unsure of your need for the hub, the ultimate is $79 right now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAKLM54/

Cannot go wrong with a 360 pad for windows

I've been using this one since 2012 still has not had one issue, just be sure any always on devices are plugged in lower than on off ones. https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/

M.2 is a specific form factor of mSATA drive.

e.g. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G1R21224&cm_re=m.2-_-20-167-170-_-Product

There is a slightly larger NUC which holds a standard 2.5" drive.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZDLNWO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2UBDPA458OZVB&coliid=I1FAIE4LLATCMZ&psc=1

I'm using a Rii8, it has backlighting unlike the Hausbell:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA

What about one of these

This is the model I'm using with Yosemite:
Intel NUC BOXD54250WYKH1 Intel 4th Gen Intel Core i5-4250U with Intel HD Graphics 5000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZDLNWO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_XwrAub0CB4RJV

Microsoft Wireless Media Keyboard

Logitech K830

Would a GTX 750Ti be enough for the games I mentioned?

Unless you need a higher end NUC for a specific reason, just get one of the lower end models.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSZTD8N

I have this but it does have 1 dead input and WAS $29.99 when I bought it. It auto detects usually when I turn on a new device.