Top products from r/iRacing

We found 49 product mentions on r/iRacing. We ranked the 118 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top comments that mention products on r/iRacing:

u/SgtMustang · 4 pointsr/iRacing

The biggest question is: How committed is he, and what is his price range?

With wheels, there are a few things to take into account. There are two methods of driving force feedback: gears, and belts.

  • Gears are relatively old technology. They are simple, reliable, and cheap, but provide a low-fi FFB experience. The teeth in the gears are very distinct in the feedback you get: as you turn the wheel, you will get a strong vibration as the gears mesh together. Gears also have rather limited strength in the FFB, even cranked up they aren't very strong. Gears also have gaps in their force feedback where you will not get any response whatsoever, often times this is the middle.

  • Belt driven wheels are a much newer and more advanced design. They really emerged only in the last 3 or 4 years in significant quantities. Belts have smooth, analog-like feedback compared to the ratchety, noisy operation of gear based wheels. They have much stronger, and much more realistic FFB. Their only cons are price, and reliability, and in the case of the early belt-driven wheels, there was some noticeable lag on the FFB. Being more complex, they may have more reliability issues, but in the vast majority of cases, they won't have any problems. Otherwise, belts are wholly superior to gear based wheels. The wheels' response will be much smoother, and much more enjoyable overall.

    I have done significant research on all the major wheels available today. And if you want to go cheap, the Black Momo or DFGT are your best choices. If you are going gear based, stick to $100 or less if possible. Any more, and you should really just skip right to belt-driven wheels. The Black Momo is not considered a "desirable" wheel, and they are plentiful. Thus, it's easy to find them cheaply; I have seen them as low as $50. I'd say amongst cheap gear wheels, the Momo is probably your best bet. I have had one for almost a decade now and it's holding up well, and I have no problems doing well in iRacing with it, despite its low steering lock. It does everything you need it to as a beginner, and is built pretty well.

    The DFGT is very similar mechanically to the Momo, the most notable difference being that it has 900 degrees of rotation, and does not have shifter paddles like the Momo. It only has buttons. However, the DFGT has a strong reputation and is in high demand, and since it has been discontinued, the price is quite high. It is possible to find them for $100 on Craigslist or other private sellers, but even the cheapest used on Amazon is $150. If you can find a DFGT for $100, I would go for it, but I wouldn't pay any more for one for a few reasons.

    Finally, the one people always seem to recommend, the G27. At the time of its release, the G27 was one of the better wheels available on the market, and it was great value. However, fastforward to modern day, the G27 is about 5 years old, and its almost identical predecessor, the G25, is 8 years old. In the interim since its release, belt-driven wheels have begun mass-production and their prices have gone down significantly, and now belt-driven wheels price-match the G27, and significantly outperform it as far as FFB goes.

    The G27 was, and still is a great wheel, but it is an old design and there are much better options now. And at the end of the day, being gear-driven, it plays by the same rules, and has the same characteristics as the far cheaper Momo and DFGT, although it is slightly more refined. This means that the G27 isn't really that great of a contender in the current market anymore at its list price. Gears are only advantageous for their price, and the G27's relatively high cost undermines this. If you can find a G27 for $150 or less, then you would have a great deal, but do not pay $200 or more for one, because at that point you really should be getting the Fanatec 911 GT3 + CS pedal bundle for $225 or so, or just going all the way to the Thrustmaster TX (which also comes with pedals) for $300. Both are significant upgrades from the G27.

    Here are some links: the "Black" MOMO Racing, Driving Force GT, and Logitech G25/G27.

    The 911 GT3 + pedal bundle can be found here for $230, $4 less than the G27 is selling for on Amazon right now. It is quite a big step up from the G27, but it is one of the older mass-produced Belt-driven wheels on the market, so it won't be as refined as the much newer model, the Thrustmaster TX, is.

    The TX is the new kid on the block and combines one of the best "bases" (basically the entire housing with the motor and belts inside, everything but the wheel, in essence) on the market, with a really low price. It's listed at $300, but you could probably find it on Craigslist or Ebay for less, or you could wait for an official sale on Amazon or some other retailer. The TX is by far the best value for your money now as far as wheel quality goes, it is only $66 more expensive than the G27 at list price, but you will get a drastically better driving experience with it. The TX's FFB is the best in the sub $500 market. As far as value goes, I would recommend the TX wholeheartedly. Users who have upgraded from the G27 to the TX have talked about a "drastic improvement" in quality, I can provide links if you would like.

    The main criticism of the TX is the lack of clutch pedal and general low quality pedals. A "progressive brake" mod has been created for the TX pedals which gives them a great, much more realistic feel, and makes them a decent set of pedals. This mod is DIY and can be done for $10. Once the mod is performed, the TX package is pretty strong overall. You get a decent progressive brake with some of the best FFB on the market for $300 or less, what more do you want?

    If you want to see a video of the TX in action and an indepth review, check out this video.

    I know this was a long post, but I wanted to encompass the current state of the wheel market as completely as I could.

    In summary:

    The only remaining selling point of gear-driven wheels is price, and even then the gap is shrinking rapidly. If you are looking to spend $150 or under, get a gear based wheel. Ideally, a Black Momo or Driving Force GT. If you can find a Logitech G27 for $150 or less, go for it, however, do not spend more than $150 on a gear based wheel.

    We're at that awkward phase where the new tech has arrived and is becoming readily available, but the old tech hasn't had time to compensate by dropping prices, sort of like video tapes and DVD's being sold simultaneously. A DVD player would only be marginally more expensive, but provides a significantly upgraded experience from VHS.

    Belt driven wheels are superior in every way other than price, and perhaps, reliability. If you are looking to spend more than $150, go for the Fanatec 911 GT3 for $175, and optionally the 911 GT3 + pedal bundle for $230. If you are looking at +$250, go for a Thrustmaster TX for $300.

    I hope you found this helpful! Feel free to respond or PM me if you have any other questions. I'm quite familiar with most of the hardware on the market today.
u/jvanstone · 1 pointr/iRacing

Looks great! If you wanted to get super technical, you could buy this https://www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-T1114-Pinstripe-Tape-Black/dp/B00029XAYW and cover the line between the blue and yellow. It would make the line perfect, and be just like the original. Good work though, I've tried my hand at painting a few helmets with mixed results.

u/smeisinger · 3 pointsr/iRacing

I don’t know which races you watch on youtube but chances are that those people are really good and have lots of experience.

Being 1-5 seconds off pace from the really good drivers isn’t that bad actually. Especially when you’re still new and even more on a track like Bathurst (which is quite challenging).

In iRacing you’re being paired with drivers approximately your skill level anyways. So don’t worry about that too much and just keep on gaining experience.

edit: if you’re totally serious about gaining speed real fast, you may wanna have a look at this book. Didn’t read it yet but heard lots of good things about it: http://www.amazon.de/The-Perfect-Corner-Step-Step-ebook/dp/B019WQFEIK

u/megaman2112 · 1 pointr/iRacing

Here is the link

I got it for kindle and am enjoying it. Also Ross Bentley has a podcast where you can get helpful tips.

I think for me the most important concept is "deliberate practice". You will get better by just spending a lot of time on track, but actually taking notes, practicing certain corners/techniques specifically will help you get better faster.

u/davideliasirwin · 4 pointsr/iRacing

EDIT: When I looked at the page before the price was $167 Euros, not USD which is where I got the $207 USD. Somehow I followed the euro link? It looks like it is $165(promotional) USD so that would make it a little cheaper but I still would prefer 4 strong shakers in chassis mode over a pad; the extra $70 bucks seems worth it to me.

I don't have any experience with the Chair Pads.

I have a four bass shaker setup that is only slightly more expensive than that one chair pad. $165(promotional) USD vs $234 USD for four bass shaker setup in chassis mode:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

The bass shakers I used may not be available anymore. If that is the case, a lot of people have been using the aura bass transducers of similar price.

This is my DIY bass shaker setup:

Amp: http://www.parts-express.com/4x100w-at-4-ohm-tk2050-class-t-digital-audio-amplifier-board--320-335

Power Supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-24V-DC-14-6A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-SupplyTransformer-/331060676334?hash=item4d14c106ee:g:hV0AAMXQjWtRKt4z

Bass Shakers: http://www.amazon.com/Reckhorn-Bs-200-Tactile-Transducer-Theater/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425568544&sr=8-5&keywords=bass+shaker

Individual Components cost:

Bass Shakers: 4 x $40

Power Supply: 1 x $24

Amp: 1 x $50

DIY Total for a 4 bass shaker setup: $234

NOTE: I use an oculus rift to race. It has its own audio driver(doesn't need a sound card). If you are racing on monitors you will need one soundcard for your game sound and one soundcard for your bass shakers.

Examples:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/724042-My-DIY-SimVibe-racing-rig

http://www.overclock.net/t/1354257/project-log-my-diy-simvibe-racing-rig

Racing Sims: Use SimVibe for racing sims($90).

u/Poison_Pancakes · 2 pointsr/iRacing

Here's the video you were looking for!

You can also get it in book form, which I think goes into more detail.

If you're interested in going even deeper, Drive To Win by Carroll Smith is a good one, and you'll even learn what it takes to be successful in real-life racing.

Tune To Win also really good if you're interested in learning about set-up, but if you're just starting out then focusing on driving is by far the most important thing. The skippy car doesn't have many set-up options anyways.

u/sobigred · 3 pointsr/iRacing

You can build a really nice setup with that budget. Good gaming builds on pcpartpicker.com are around 700€, logitech G29 wheel is about 175€, good wheel stand for 130€, and a solid monitor for 400€ or so and that should leave you a little bit under.

u/alexatwork21 · 2 pointsr/iRacing

If it were me, I would get this:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Wheel-Ferrari-458-Italia/dp/B00ENFVS5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480174329&sr=8-1&keywords=thrustmaster%2Btx&th=1

The pedals are meh, but at least you get the TX base which I would place awfully close to the T500, but significantly better than the G29.

u/AoF-Vagrant · 1 pointr/iRacing

> Get the best experience out of iRacing possible without wasting time

I would suggest possibly changing the mentality here (If I'm understanding you right). Instead, take your time & enjoy it instead of trying to rush to the top classes. Especially with road racing, the lower classes are the best place to learn tracks & driving competitively.

For learning how to be fast, I always recommend the book Going Faster. Everything else is just from experience & practice.

For the wheel stuff, you should be fine. Stick shifter would add immersion, but it's not mandatory.

u/spindizee · 2 pointsr/iRacing

Here is a link to the one I have

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPTBI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

I chose this based on price. I wasn't sure how good they worked so I didn't want to spend a lot to try one out. I was very happy with this one and can only imagine how good one with a couple hundred watts works.

u/catdeuce · 1 pointr/iRacing

Pretty sure he's using this with this.

u/_schmuck · 5 pointsr/iRacing

I'm not sure how much research you've done but you don't just "get" iRacing, iRacing is very much an investment. You have to pay a monthly subscription, along with buying each track and car separately (car: $11.95 track: $14.95) There are free cars and tracks but those will only get you out of the rookie series before you have to pay. I think you should stay away from the Laptop scene and lean more towards building your own machine with your father. If you want to get the full experience out of iRacing you'll want a 900° Force Feedback wheel. The cheapest one is the TMX from Thrustmaster for $150, usually $200. If you want to continue to upgrade, you can do so with their pedals and other wheels.

u/snuglitx · 1 pointr/iRacing

These are great: AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v1fyDbCXMBDHT

u/Toymeister · 1 pointr/iRacing

This was the one I meant. Brilliant book.

u/cpthomp · 1 pointr/iRacing

DFGT for ~120 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PlayStation-Driving-Force-Racing-Wheel/dp/B0015HYPOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492784540&sr=8-1&keywords=DFGT


The G25 USED to be the way to go, but are really expensive now. Too much for what they are. I got mine for $170, and it was perfect :/

u/Major_Turdcutter · 1 pointr/iRacing

Got the shaker on amazon. Reckhorn Bs-200 Bass Shaker / Tactile Transducer for Your Home Theater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WzwEwbXJVYEMX

The amp you can get on amazon also, but I got it direct from the amazon seller cheaper. Cannot remember model, but it's a Dayton 70wRMS mono amp procured from parts- warehouse.com

u/will242418 · 2 pointsr/iRacing

The thrustmaster T150RS is a good starter wheel, and it's $179 on Amazon. I have owned it for 3-4 years and have yet to have a problem. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-2/dp/B014US02ZA

u/soinside · 3 pointsr/iRacing

In this book, Ultimate Speed Secrets, he basically says to brake hard with ABS because that's the whole point. I still can't let myself do that completely but I mainly drive GTE.

u/BriGuy550 · 3 pointsr/iRacing

Need a budget, but since you just learned to drive, I'm guessing you're young and funds are limited. As /u/MrTrt already said, the T300 is probably the cheapest wheel with swappable rims. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thrustmaster+T300&qid=1562172552&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

If you have a bigger budget, then start looking at Fanatec as they have a TON of rim options and price ranges. If you can spend into the thousands, then a direct drive wheel is the way to go.

u/k-NE · 1 pointr/iRacing

G27 is no longer available for purchase because Logitech made the G29.

G29 is mechanically the same as the G27, has the community preferences for the 27 built in, and some extra buttons. Feel is the same.

Major difference is no shifter comes with the 29.

You can use a G27 shifter with it.

Logitech Driving Force G29 Race Wheel, Force Feedback Steering Wheel

The new shifter is called the Logitech Driving Force Shifter, comes separate for 30 dollars.

u/beernutmark · 1 pointr/iRacing

Watch these videos and take them to heart. I am also quite new but had no problem getting my SR up to advance to D license and that is in races only no TT. Also, reading Going Faster! has made a world of difference for me in a very short period of time.