(Part 2) Top products from r/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme and MX-4 are all good. Kryonaut is the best one imo (12,5 W/mk, that's thermal conductivity - not to be mistaken with the paste being conductive - it's not) compared to 8.5 on Gelix and MX-4. I also like how easy it is to spread around

Liquid Metal is conductive (Conductonaut). Here's a good video of doing the whole thing (especially the tape part so you don't have to deal with cleaning spillage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGrErLzePdw

Firstly it’s not essential.

Secondly that’s a pretty ghetto solution. If you want to do it properly get liquid electrical tape, I use clear but colour doesn’t matter.

Starbrite Liquid Tape Wire Coating CLEAR https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000BO93RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nu-JAbPMC4FEX

EDIT: LOL silent downvoters. At least say why man/woman. I never said nail polish wouldn’t work.

What GPU you have? Figure a healthy 250W for everything in your system before a GPU, and add for instance ~300W for a 2080 ti, so for that total draw of 550W, I'd spec a 750 or 850W 80+ Gold to give some leeway for spikes and the efficiency curve.

On the other hand if you're going for something like a 2070, the GPU power draw would be closer to only 200W, so something like a 650W 80+Gold.

I use SeaSonic power supplies in all of my PC's.

Something like this https://www.amazon.fr/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R

I also currently use an i7 920. I have an Asus P6T Deluxe (LGA1366). The x58 is an enthusiast class platform with 40 PCIe lanes. So I put in a PCIe USB 3.0 card with 4 ports for $18. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also I got a SATA 3.0 PCIe controller card (will give you AHCI) for $68 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EM7N70/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then added 2 Samsung 850 Pro drives onto the new controller as well as a Samsung 950 M.2 SSD through a PCIe card https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018U79YQK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also added 24GB of RAM over the years.

I run an EVGA 1080FTW and game at 2460x1440. I get the following avg framerates. Witcher 3 = 57fps Trine 2 = 76fps, Starcraft 2 = 50fps, Tomb Raider 2013 = 81fps.

Personally I am wanting to replace it with an equal or better system which Skylake is NOT because it only has 16PCIe lanes to the CPU. I'm eagerly waiting for Skylake-E at around middle of 2017, that's the next big enthusiast level upgrade.
Any questions just ask.

I would like to second some of the other people here.


Despite knowing this is the Intel subreddit, since you have to replace your motherboard anyways, you might find it worthwhile instead looking at AMD's Ryzen platform. A 2600 ($15 cheaper), 2600X (same price as the 9400f) or 3600 ($50 more) may prove a more worthwhile buy.


It would help more to know exactly what your usecase is, but, going for Ryzen should be the correct choice in the price range of that 9400f in more circumstances than the 9400f would be. Also take into account that the Ryzen CPUs are all unlocked and may be overclocked whereas only K-SKU's on Intel may be.


I hope that this gave you some more insight!

>Ironic you should say that after suggesting the i5 8400

Read the topic, the reason I said this is becuase the guy mentioned buying the 2600X and he is already thinking about the upgrade to zen2, but since he says he bought the 2600X due to pricing, none of it makes sense and I argued why.

> SMT and so you're looking at 6c/12t, which is going to absolutely destroy the i5 8400 in any other situation.

Not in CAD, or 3DSMAX, or video editing using quicksync.

How about an 8600k for £238.66 & FREE Delivery in the UK.


Good luck, you keep buying your cpus due to MOAR CORES and running cinebench over and over and ill just look at the performance of the software I use, or in this context, what the person actually said they were going to use it for. If I were only gaming even the 7700k would be a better buy against a ryzen.

If you wanted to save as much as possible, the CM 212 is on sale for $15...

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Direct-Contact-Unique/dp/B01KBXKP8W/

Minimum OC anybody should aim for is 4.7 GHz (MCE), it should be capable of that. But it's a pretty weak cooler.

ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero (WiFi): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCXT591/

Thanks for the list I always wonder what to buy for my next build, between this two:


https://www.amazon.de/Seasonic-Modular-Netzteil-Computer-Gaming/dp/B073H33X7R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524348350&sr=8-2&keywords=seasonic+prime+650


http://www2.seasonic.com/product/prime-650-w-gold/

I used razors like these

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25181-Razor-Blades-Pack/dp/B000CMFJZ2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526310676&sr=8-6&keywords=razor+blades

https://www.amazon.com/HT-OMEGA-CLARO-Channel-Sound/dp/B006U9OML8

I wish I could still use this. Imo. This thing stomped on any other audio sound card. Heck I would say it still sounds better than my ZxR.

But sadly it doesn’t have a 6.35 headphone jack. So I can’t use it >.>

It’s more like a 70 dollar difference between the two. And you’d have to get an aftermarket cooler for both of them because the 8700 is going to get uncomfortably hot under the stock cooler and paste. And if you get a b360 motherboard you’ll be stuck with 2666mhz ram while you can get a decent Samsung B-die here for the same price or less than lower quality ram and overclock it to around 3600 cl14 and tighten the timings and create a huge gap in gaming performance over the 8700 with a decent overclock on the 8600k.

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16820313711

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-8600K-Processor-Unlocked-BX80684i58600K/dp/B0759FKH8K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525142418&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=8600k&dpPl=1&dpID=51sSl9xb6zL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700-Desktop-Processor-BX80684i78700/dp/B07598HLB4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525142463&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=8700&dpPl=1&dpID=512Nn%2BHAsrL&ref=plSrch

Radon is odorless and tasteless, so you'll need a specialized kit to detect it:

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-RD1-Radon-Test/dp/B00002N83E

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3600&qid=1564268680&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCXT591/ref=emc_b_5_t

I found that hopping through someone else's link on here. For some reason it doesn't show up if you search though.

counterpoint

PSA:
i7-7700k
i5-7600k

Amazon currently has the 7600k in stock.

And the 7700K

is this good https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525601659&sr=8-5&keywords=cpu+cooler

Aqeelah has got you covered: https://www.amazon.com/Truper-880154539-Fiberglass-10-Inch-50-Inch/dp/B005Q7CRNU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1540005342&sr=8-6&keywords=pitchfork

This should answer your question.

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400
Should match the performance of a hyper 212, and it's about $10 cheaper.

Thanks I found a laptop with a 8 core ryzen 7 but I ended up being just the normal ryzen 7 2700 put in a laptop soo that's my bad
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-PH517-61-R0GX-Processor-Graphics/dp/B07GWX5X26/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ryzen+7+2700+laptop&qid=1563927074&s=gateway&sprefix=ryzen+7+2700+laptop&sr=8-1
Still interesting to see

No actual liquid electric tape you can apply with a small pick or brush. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-Electrical-Waterproof/dp/B000FPAN2K

So these are better than a higher mhz but higher CL?

​

Same as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTNFGSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Dont worry about not available)

Wait, are you relying on the senors in your mobo to tell the program how much current it is drawing and not an actual electrical meter?

Sadly, those are insanely inaccurate. Just do a quick google. There are a few that are accurate but most are complaints about it showing wrong. You need an actual meter. Either a clamp on style that will calculate the current flowing through the cable or one that actually plugs into the wall.

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_lij7Cb7R6H05T

Core Temp currently shows my 4.6Ghz 4790k only draws 92 watts. Yet, my meter in the wall shows my whole system drawing 240w. Take 35% away for the other system parts and it comes to 156 watts. If I do a whole system test on OCCT, with my 1080 Ti OCed, it comes to 518 watts total system draw.