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I own a few of the NUC8i5's and use it for pro audio work and a tiny bit of video work.

The machine is fast, quiet, and efficient. 16 gigs of memory may be fine (that's what I'm using), 32 may be helpful in Premier as Steve mentioned. Consider a Samsung 970 EVO m.2 drive; the 1TB is $149 on Amazon today...that's quite a deal. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=MZ-V7E1T0BW&qid=1574095226&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-1

The 970 EVO Plus (even faster) is $199 today for a TB.

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And 32 Gigs of memory is currently $125 (Crucial 2400 MT/s)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019FRCV9G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I'm producing anything substantial video wise, I go to another machine. But for light video, the NUC will work. And the i7 you're looking at will perform slightly better than the i5 I'm using.

All that said, this tiny PC space may be getting even more exciting if AMD gets into it as has been rumored. They have superior graphics rendering in many cases, and their latest laptop chips have been shown to outperform the Intel counterparts. It'll be interesting to see the 10th gen intel chips in a NUC soon.

I love the NUC platform. I've built 25+ of them and have been please along the way.

Both items limit the models you'll have to choose from, but the most restrictive is the memory. Since it's 1.5v it will only work in first gen NUCs. For an i5 you're going to be limited to the DC53427HYE, which is out of production.https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Computing-BOXDC53427HYE-Desktop-Black/dp/B00C5K8FRI

As older models go, it's pretty well configured. It comes with 1 HDMI and 2 mini displayport for video, so you can run up to 3 monitors. it looks like your monitors are loaded up with ports, so that's good. But you'll need either mini displayport to HDMI or mini displayport to displayport adapters to connect. Good luck!

Hi Retropug, I have a Hades Canyon NUC8i7HVK 8809G hooked up to an Apple Thunderbolt Display using USB C.

The cables I'm using are:

1. Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter
   
2. Apple Thunderbolt Cable
   
   Some notes:
   
   

• The Thunderbolt Display did not work the first time it was plugged in. Used a HDMI monitor to find this driver: Thunderbolt™ Bus Driver for Windows® 10 64-bit for Intel® NUC Kit NUC8i7HNK, NUC8i7HVK to get it going.
  
• After installing the Intel Thunderbolt driver and getting the Thunderbolt Display working, there was a notification "this Thunderbolt device is not certified for PC use" each time I started up Windows 10. The notification can be switched it off using Notifications & Actions under "Thunderbolt Software".
  
• If the Thunderbolt cable is disconnected from the Thunderbolt Display it may take a few cable reinsertions into the display to get it to work again.
  
• Volume adjustments work fine, but I cannot figure out how to adjust screen brightness. The default brightness is not unpleasant though.
  
  Hope that helps!

Much better value than the Mac Mini:

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXNUC8i3BEH1-Canyon-Components-Other/dp/B07GX4X4PW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540934195&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=8th+gen+i3+nuc

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Pop in 1x8GB RAM with room for 8GB more possibly later and a Samsung 860 or 970 EVO depending on how fast you want it to be and your budget. The 7th Gen i3 is also fine. MacOS is not worth the premium. Linux Mint is excellent.

Alternatively to your battery backup idea, you could wire up an external switch and run it somewhere in your vehicle. I'm assuming the reason for asking about this is because you're going to put your NUC somewhere out of reach.

The subject of external power switch for NUCs comes up from time to time in various applications and there are solutions that come with varied degrees of cost and complexity. It all centers around supplementing or replacing the internal wires connected to what is called the "header" (located on the mainboard) and running them to an exterior switch. If you want to investigate this route go to Intel's website and find the "technical product specifications" for your model. This is not the users manual. Its a long technical document and in it will most likely be a section with the pinout specs for the header that controls the things on the front panel such as the power button, the reset button, and activity lights.

With the knowledge of what each pin does you can then go hunting for something like this or this (btw I'm not saying these will necessarily work for you, they're just an examples). Of course that solution depends on the ability to remove the original connectors from the header. I don't know how every NUC model is designed and so I cant say for sure that there doesn't exist an NUC model where these pins are soldered to the header and that you own such a model. If that be the case then the concept is the same except now you're faced with the task of soldering.

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Update: Bought this cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's USB-C to DP, and it works flawlessly, so far. As it's being used in a Thunderbolt 3 port, it supports higher resolutions at higher refresh rates, so my 2560x1440 @60Hz is fine.

It shouldn't have been necessary, and it's more expensive than any old HDMI cable, but I'm so relieved that it's sorted.

I'll re-check the HDMI to HDMI situation every now and then, after a big kernel or BIOS update, especially as I might want to free up the TB3 port in the future.

Is this the i7 version of it? Is the i7 version worth it? I don't mind spending an extra 100$ or around 500$-700$ total as long as it can be used as a normal desktop. For comparison, I have a 750ti and an i5-4670. As long as it is better than the current setup, I don't mind spending a bit more. Does it also support dual monitor?

Edit: woops, I replied before seeing your edit. So is the i7 not worth it for the price? Or do you mean that it is not a necessary upgraded if not needed?

Amazing listing: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXNUC8i7BEH1-Canyon-Components-Other/dp/B07GX69JQP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540160019&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nuc8i7beh&dpPl=1&dpID=31B3TRtWvbL&ref=plSrch

Bought mine from Newegg about a month ago.

I am using this nvme drive ad it is amazing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ 1 year warranty or 5 year warranty if you register

hehe true. Another question if you dont mind. Whats the difference between

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-21300-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B071KP8CGG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=crucial%2Bddr4&qid=1565097294&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1 and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TP6XXLF/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

We cannot speak to that product you linked, unless somebody here has the product and can confirm.

Otherwise.....

I can confirm the devices I own, Bean Canyon and Hades Canyon, both support ThunderBolt-3 over USB-c to external display tha features the DisplayPort connector. This works well, and I'm using this specific cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/

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The full size DisplayPort or the Mini DisplayPort really doesn't matter very much, I'm just showing you what I use. Obviously if your external display uses mini-DP, then go with able that provides that.

It is a kludge but could use something like this with any NUC: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

Hmm.. they say they are. Good info as I now see 2.0 is needed for 60Hz at UHD/4K.

After more googling last night I was considering ordering some ferrite cores. Will try my 7i5 box today if I can too.

Latest cables I bought are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FX6KO8Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0ZI9FA

• I had at least six other spare ones already (three or four different types)
  
  
  

I took the plastic lid off today and monitored the heat of the metal chassis underneath while I rendered some video. I was hot right where you'd expect it - over the CPU and also over the fan.

I'm thinking of buying this heatsink, attaching it with some thermal paste to the metal chassis (with a little bit of thermal adhesive too to hold it in place but not too much to make removal a PITA) and see how that works. It won't be as good as attaching right to the heat pipes but there already is some heat conduction going to the metal chassis which I'm guessing is part of the overall thermal management. And I'm not willing to cut through metal just yet.

I know that you want your NUC silent, but for my purposes I may also get this USB fan to turn on when rendering.

We'll see how it goes...

If they are going to shoot pictures / videos, they might need an external drive or a NAS. However for regular desktop use, including browsing and office work a single SSD should be more than enough.

(Remember, Surface Pro and many similar devices come with 128GB - 512GB storage range).

Recently 1TB nvme devices have become much cheaper, sometimes going under $100. That could be the minimum you'd want to put on the device.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR/ [currently $120, but can setup a deal alert, last one was on Jul 01, 2019)

I've been using this for my second monitor and everything seems to be working so far. I think those cheap USB-C to HDMI adapters are the problem. They seem to work sometimes but not alltimes. Very frustrating.

How about this one? It still saves a bunch but still gives me lots of SSD storage (double what I have now). https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG

My Logitech keyboard and mouse came with a little extender that I use with my NUC. It's about the length of your thumb.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/615G%2BPRFK3L._SX425_.jpg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-USB-Extender-Male-Female/dp/B008KE085U

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-NUC-Mainstream-Kit-NUC8i5BEK/dp/B07GX4X4PW

I am not using a splitter., I am using a USB C to Display port Cable, an HDMI 2.0 Cable, and a Mini Display Port to Display Port Cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SSD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would this 32GB (2x16GB) work for example?

Thunderbolt 2 Ethernet - https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-Gigabit-Ethernet-MD463LL/dp/B011K4RKFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540852371&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=apple+thunderbolt+ethernet&dpPl=1&dpID=11jOHzBzFAL&ref=plSrch

Thunderbolt 2 to 3 - https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MMEL2AM-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540852412&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thunderbolt+2+to+thunderbolt+3&dpPl=1&dpID=21TovN-97mL&ref=plSrch

I bought these ones and they work with my 7th gen.

StarTech.com USB-C to DVI Cable – 3 ft / 1m – 1080p – 1920x1200 – USB-C DVI Monitor Cable – USB C Cable – Computer Monitor Cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVWRETA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7kRczbEP8SHRX

I used one of these with my Hades for a while.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJOYG6Y/


Here's an example.

I have no idea but if you get desperate you can buy a USB sound device fairly cheaply.

Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492396473&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+sound+device

(I haven't used that one myself though, so do some research first.)