(Part 2) Top products from r/klr650

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.

The best cover I've used is the only cover I've used. Bought 4 different ones. One for the wife's bike and 2 for my KLR (one for my Versys).

Here's the link

The XXL size fit even with my huge booty top box on my KLR. I'd size one down to the XL if you have no luggage. The XL size fits my Versys 650 and my wifes F700GS perfectly.

It's super thick and waterproof. Has what I'll call "heat-resistant" material on the lower edge near the exhaust/engine area. Comes with bungee hooks to secure the cover under the bike. It also has a ventilated cutout on the side.

My first one I had on my bike year round and the sun got to it. Eventually it just broke down and ripped once it got so thin and faded. If it's not shaded I'd probably treat it every month or so to get the most out of it. As it stands the first one lasted me well over a year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SGZ93D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SREP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Did this to mine last month, worked great. Don't forget red loctite on the helicoils

Edit: and a 21/64" drill bit to clean out the old threads

Shoutout to /u/MetaKLR for telling me about this

I rode the TAT last year on my gen 1. I absolutely fell in love with this tool- https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0161-Multi-Purpose-Metric/dp/B000GTV1V2 you can use it for most trail side adjustments and it can replace a few heavier tools. I also carry a small plastic syringe measuring tool and some small tubing that i can use to activate the vacuum petcock so i can drain fuel into a bottle and put it in a buddy's bike. Have fun and watch out for mud

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

I've been moto-camping for awhile with some pretty good/compact gear. I got [this](https://ironhorsegear.com/products/2-tent) tent because it packs down to a little bigger than a football (7"x7"x14.5") and weighs approx 6.5 lbs. The tent poles are all strung together (the rain fly pole attaches to the top) and it is really easy to set up. I love that I can pull back the rainfly as far as I want and "sleep under the stars".

[This](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DFGX6D8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) sleeping bag packs down to about the same size as the tent and only weight 3.5 lbs!

I also have a [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4B3ZVS/ref=twister_B07P6WY3MH?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) sleeping pad because the bag is not too fluffy.

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[Here's](https://imgur.com/RbWhdPU) a pic of my big bike loaded up for a week long trip thru the Blue Ridge/Smokies and Appalachians, notice my buddies Harley, while I got room for a rider or cooler if necessary.

[Here's](https://imgur.com/GC04eLO) the tent with the rain fly pulled back, that's my KLR in the background.

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The bag is rated to 25F but I've only used for fall/spring riding in the Southeast and winter in Florida.

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Edit: What happened to hiding the links?!

I spliced in a larger, generic small engine one that was at Oreilly. It's nice because it's larger and you can see what gets stuck in it more easily than the tiny stock one. Similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/FRAM-G4164-In-Line-Fuel-Filter/dp/B0009H527A/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484176062&sr=1-19&keywords=fuel+filter

For you first question, it should be fine. Both the shaft and surrounding bore are the same diameter both at the point where it is mounted flush and deeper in where you pushed it to. It would just make it more difficult to remove next time. It's just a seal as long as it makes good contact with both the inner and outer surfaces it will do its job.

For your second question I had a destroyed bearing as well like yours and used a bearing puller (This one https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002SRH7Y?keywords=bearing%20puller&qid=1457485569&ref_=sr_1_6&s=automotive&sr=1-6) which expands and locks into the old outer bearing race. Then hammered it from the other side. Also applied some heat to the hub with a blowtorch to expand it a little.

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-03-0204-Black-Clutch/dp/B000WJJ35C/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_2

I think I got this one for 15$ Thanks for the reply though.

Here is the one I got... I don't know if it is "good" but it fits and works with my 12

WIX Filters - 24951 Cartridge Fuel Metal Canister, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSD28C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Yog8wbRHB6HCY

It came with the oring as well and I hear that's something to look for.

VHT SP115 FlameProof Coating Satin Clear Paint Can - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000CPJLGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5QsRDb69PXSFK

I use the Nelson-Rigg MC-904-05-XX Deluxe All-Season Motorcycle Cover (Black, XX-Large)
for my KLR 650 with pelican side panniers. I think it will fit your situation
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU7I72/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found These on amazon, anyone have them?

Here are the KLR manual specs

Here are the Shell Rotella 15w40 specs

You'll notice that the Rotella 15w40 oil meets the requirements set by Kawasaki by being compliant with [API SH, SJ, or SL] with JASO MA. It has the necessary additives.

TLDR: buy shell rotella 15w40 heavy diesel oil at walmart for $12/gallon, change oil every 2000-2500 miles. Still cheaper than $9/quart

Edit: you can just get it all on amazon.

• Hi-Flo 123 oil filter for $4.17
  
• Shell Rotella 15w40 1 Gallon for $12.97

KN-123? Should have the rings on them already, but if not see link.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502911662&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+tender

I would make the following recommendations before resorting to welding or drilling out, or any method with a higher chance of causing damage to other parts of the motorcycle.

Edit: I looked at the picture and realize you didn't mean you ruonded off the top of the bolt, you mean that you snapped off the head. My advice below is for rounded off nuts and advice on the hex-key oil bolts. You can ignore it as your issue is a sheared off head.

Think of when you change your car oil filter. The oil filter wrench -- how does hit work? It tightens up and gets a better grip as you turn. Now think of your open-end wrench, especially if you don't have one that's a correct fit -- it grabs only two of the thin bolt head edges, and pushes on the thin tips. The worse fit your wrench is to the bolt, the finer the edge of the tip it's going to grab--and smear. Use the open end wrench ONLY as a last resort.


Get either a Loggerhead Tools Bionic Wrench or a Sears Max Axxess wrench version. Squeeze on the nut and turn. As you turn, it bites down harder. This is better than vice grips that bite once, then use small teeth like a metal file if they slip.

Note: There is a controversy, I recommend supporting buying the American Inventor tool, Loggerhead, and not Sears

Consider using a Gator Grip socket.

If any of the above give you a problem, use a hand file or a dremel to put some more solid edges on your bolt for them to grip.

Final tips: The stock bolts are fine. Get a correct fitting, box-end wrench, or a six-sided socket, and you will never have a problem (unless you smear it on a rock). There is nothing wrong with the hex key drain plugs, but note you're using a reverse box-end wrench (a six-point "bolt head") to stick into the hole. And if somehting goes wrong, you have less surface area in the hex hole to apply force to for removing them -- you'll be filing flat edges on that round bolt head so you can get one of the above tools to bite on it. Plus you'll have to carry an extra tool vs the Eagle Mike low profile that's the same bolt head size (I believe).

The hex-key fix is an "I don't know how to use tools so I get one that was dummy proofed for me" tip. The equivalent to using a box end wrench on a bolt, would be using a standard/slotted screwdriver to tighten/loosen your hex keys.

The Platypus collapsible water bottles are made of the same plastic as fuel cans. I've had a 2L bottle half full for 3 months now, no degradation, no smell, still holding fuel. They're $13 each on Amazon right now. Fill a couple up, toss them in a tail bag, tank bag, or a number plate bag across the windshield, and store them flat when empty.

I went with this for the front fender, which really helped to cut down wind pull (and just looks cooler, honestly.)

These are the front turn signals that I traded out, still plenty visible, but not huge like the stock ones.

Add these lights to the front fairing for a whole lot of extra visibility, both at night and for daytime rides too. Easy to wire up, and just takes two holes. Make sure you get the spot beam, not the flood.

I've got this bash plate + crash bar combination on mine now, it's already stood up to one test on a dirt road.

Here's a picture of mine as it stands now. (and a detail shot) Apologies for the garage picture, and dirty bike.