(Part 2) Top products from r/knifeclub

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We found 109 product mentions on r/knifeclub. We ranked the 1,465 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/knifeclub:

u/Stormrider001 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Okay, where to begin?

​

Sharpening a knife is actually a very simple process. The overall goal is for you to maintain an angle throughout the sharpening process while sharpening from course to fine grits (Course = smaller #s and Fine = Higher #s). Often people use cheap knives and sharpeners and learn good habits (maintaining angles) before upgrading to higher tier stones. The issue you have is the you are dealing with a premium steel knife which is much harder, holds an edge longer( needs sharpen less often) and takes more time to sharpen with a majority of sharpening materials. If you are dealing with Elmax steel I would recommend that what ever sharpener you get it should have diamond and ceramic stones as these are harder than the knife material and can cut it efficiently unless you are using some belt or grinder system. Since you are a beginner I would recommend that you use a knife sharpening system as you could have more accidents sharpening the knife free hand. Believe me it sucks when you screw up a knife edge while sharpening and you have to spend way too much time fixing your mistakes so the knife can actually cut. In short I would use a test knife in any sharpener to see how it works properly and after you are more confident use the system you choose. Also some of these might be excessive especially if you only have a few knives. Some of the higher end sharpener are what professionals use in their shop (who knows if you get good enough you can make some money).

​

  1. The Lansky Diamond system ($67) is a great place to start as it has 70/120/280/600 grits but you also have to purchase the C clamp stand ($15 and you do need it as you will get tired holding the thing) and higher grit (1000) ceramic stone ($13) and 2000 grit stone ($12). Leather strops with compound if you want an absolute finish. The only complaint I would have about this system is that the stones are not of the highest quality and stop working as the diamonds fall off. The sharpening guides also are fixed and you have to use a angle measure (your iphone can use its compass app) or some math (trig) to find the position to get an accurate angle throughout the blade. There is a work around stone holder ($60 )That can use Edgepro stones and is longer (better strokes). So with everything but the strop and the 3rd party holder you are looking around $120. $200 with the upgraded stone holder.
  2. The KME sharpener is very similar concept except that the angle guide is moveable but I must still stress that the angle needs to verified again. Shabazz also explains this in his review. It also has a nicer case. I think you still need to buy the base for this one as well. Like you said it runs around $300 with every thing.
  3. at $350-575 there is the wicked edge . Hear great things and it will get the job done faster but it is expensive! You can get a Tormek at that price now.
  4. If you do not want to spend a ton of time sharpening and don't mind belt grinding the Ken Onion Sharpener ($126) is great. Note: it will create a convex edge and if that is something you want great! Video
  5. Going off the deeper end we have the Tormek T4 ($400-550 or $700 for the full size) which is essentially a wheel grinder made for edge knives and tools. Considered by many to be the best you can get
  6. There is also the TSprof ($700) which is essentially a bigger top tier KME sharpener. Video
  7. If you want a simple top tier diamond system DMT Course Set and Fine Set =$200 total. Note that although expensive. These can be used pretty much for decades provided that you take care of them (use diamond abrasive fluid). You can also use water stones but there are so many out there I do not know which brands and how much you could expect to spend with those.

    ​

    Note that I only mentioned the higher end sharpening systems under the assumption that money is no objection and you wanted it to sharpen you knife efficiently but I wanted for you to see what types of systems are available are certain price ranges. If not mentioned above you might need a strop and fine compound to get a mirror edge.

    Okay now here are some cheaper systems that are similar to some of those above but cheaper.

  8. 5 gen Sharpener (ebay) ($40). This is like the KME Sharpener but cheaper and you can get 3rd party Diamond Plates set (140/400/1000) cheap ($25)
  9. Edge Pro clone - cheaper end copy of the Edge pro. I think you can also use the diamond plates as it is around the same size.
  10. Lulu sharpener ($90) if you can find one... it is a copy of the Wicked Edge. Looks like it also uses the Diamond plates mentioned earlier.

    ALSO: get a ceramic honing rod ($20). Often times knives just need honing to get back that razor sharp edge and maintaining it with a rod will prolong your edge and mean you sharpen less.

    ​

    Hopefully this has helped you somewhat and sorry it took so long to respond, it just takes time to type all of this out(2hrs! where does the time go?) and cite the products. Personally for me, knives for me a fun hobby and it tends to have a meditative effect on me when I sharpen them. I also hope that you come to enjoy sharpening your knives just as much.

    ​

    And welcome to sharpening!
u/900_year_old_vampire · 10 pointsr/knifeclub

in my opinion, once you get above like ~$250, you arent really getting any better in quality. just different designs, brand names, etc.

my advice is get him a benchmade 940 and be done with it. thats easily the nicest and most popular "expensive, but worth it because its actually really really nice" pocket knife. that company has great customer service and warrenty as well - part of that price tag is the fact that at any point for the rest of his life, if anything goes wrong with it, he can just ship it off to benchmade HQ and they will take care of it and send it back for free. it's a great high quality pocket knife that he will have forever, unless he sells it.

if you think he might like something a little smaller and dressier, the north fork is the same caliber.

another option that's ridiculously popular is the spyderco paramilitary 2

these are all equally high quality knives that are great for every day carry. choosing between them is just personal preference really

u/Sancho_IV_of_Castile · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Here's what's in my kitchen: http://i.imgur.com/CAQ3xUv.jpg

Left to right:

  • Kramer/Zwilling 8" chef's knife in FC61 steel. An amazing knife, with a thin blade, excellent balance, perfectly proportioned. A bit pricey as far as production kitchen knives go, though.

  • Fujitake 7.2" chef's knife in VG10 steel. Picked this up recently in Japan. It is not available anywhere in the states, which is pretty cool. Hida Tool has some Fujitakes available, but not this one. Even thinner than the Kramer, with a completely different design and feel. It cuts like a laser, and might permanently replace the Kramer for me.

  • An old, inexpensive KAI bread knife. Excellent for what it does (cut bread).

  • An old L'Econome paring knife. Its combination of a slightly rounded tip and thin blade make it perfect for things like prying the green sprouts out of older garlic gloves, or scraping the skins off young shallots. I use this thing a lot.

    The sine qua non, however, is a good sharpening setup. Without it, it's not even worth thinking about getting a kitchen knife. If I were you I'd buy this:

  • Spyderco Sharpmaker

  • Victorinox Fibrox

  • Opinel Paring Knife

    Total price: $105.45. The Fibrox is a great entry level chef's knife, and it would be extremely easy to keep sharp on the Sharpmaker. The Opinel is cheap and effective as a paring knife.
u/thesexiestoffender · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

If you already have a hard time sharpening knives then that thing isn’t going to help.

I’ve had one and let me just say that it’s probably better left for kitchen knives and garden tools.

The worksharp will only do a convex edge. It seems intuitive to use via the marketing material but it’s honestly not. Most pocket knives can’t be sharpened properly either because it’s super easy to roll the tips or you cant properly reach the entire length of the cutting edge.

Some people also claim that it can cause too much heat from friction and negatively affect the heat treat of the steel at the very edge. Consistency is also certainly not easy and is probably the most important aspect of sharping.

Honestly the worksharp seems like gimicky bullshit. Without a doubt, it’s probably great for yardwork tools but that’s about it in my opinion.

If you wanna practice and challenge yourself, try a simple stone system and practice your form. here is one my worksharp.

u/king_human · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Well, it's not made in the USA, but this knife from Kizer is a pretty outstanding value for your budget.

Might not seem like an upgrade, but the Crow 2 and Raven 2 from Spyderco's Byrd line are made from very nice materials.

The next step up in Spyderco would be the Delica.

A good made-in-the-USA model would be the Kershaw Leek.

There are a bunch of good options out there in your price range, so happy hunting!

u/Riley_UK · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Hello /r/knifeclub !

TL;DR: I got given a knife and it doesn't want to hold an edge, can anyone identify it / the steel. Is it worth keeping and re-profiling or is it trash?

I have googled and I can't find any information on this knife. It was given to me by my other half's mother. I took it to the sharpener and put a nice 18° per side edge on it and within less than a week it was blunted. My ceramic rod did nothing; I grabbed my loupe and looked at the edge and it looks like a god damn mountain range.

I'm not hard on my knives, my regular 8" chefs knife is the excellent but famously soft steeled Victorinox Fibrox and that lasts me a good 2 months between needing maintanace.

I have since taken it to the Worksharp because I didn't want to waste my time re-working it without gathering more information first (new edge picture is the last of the 4, you can see the new edge the Worksharp put on it). It's sharp again for now but I have no idea if it'll last.

Can anyone tell me anything about this knife? Do I need to put a steeper edge on it? the blade is stamped "Japan", I had my fingers crossed that maybe it would be a solid VG-10 blade but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm happy to sit down and take the time to work the edge into something robust if it's worth it.

Help me /r/knifeclub, you're my only hope.

u/solsangraal · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

everyone seems to rave about the griptillian and the 940 from benchmade. also includes their lifesharp service, which is pretty awesome

i have a decent number of knives, but the one i use the most by far is the delica 4 wave-- best $60 i ever spent.

in the end i'd say you could definitely spend a lot less than $200 for a great knife, just depends on your taste

u/JerseyDevl · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Check woot.com every now and then, they have new deals every day and often feature Kershaw blades. I picked up the Injection 3 the other day from sport.woot.com for a grand total of $21 shipped. It's a little bigger than what I expected because i stupidly didn't even glance at the specs, but I'm liking it so far. It has solid lockup, a big blade with a deep belly, and the action is pretty smooth. The only drawback is that it's missing a flipper.

I also have a Kershaw OD-2 and it is a fantastic small EDC knife, but it might be a little too small for the type of things you're going to be doing. The flipper action is absolutely perfect though, it's as smooth as butter. I find myself playing with it all the time because it's just so damn satisfying.

One thing to keep in mind- plain edge is good for most tasks, but if you're cutting rope/cord like you say you are, some people prefer a serrated edge. Serrated edges are a bitch and a half to sharpen though.

If you're looking for a fixed-blade rather than a folder, I'd go with Mora, they offer carbon steel which is harder, but will rust if you get it wet and don't oil it, and stainless, if you're working in a wet-ish environment. They cost less than $15, they're great quality for the money and they will take a hell of a beating. Plus, if you manage to break it, you'll have that other $15 left over to buy a new one! I picked up a Craftline HighQ Robust recently and it was money well spent.

u/Craig · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I haven't used a bushcraft, but I do have the HighQ Robust and that is a lot of knife for $14.

I do like the idea of blaze orange, but I don't know that it would be enough for me to justify the added expense.

No matter what, a Mora is not going to let you or your brother down - he is pretty much guaranteed to love whichever model you get him.

One word of advice - if he is unfamiliar with the scandi grind, he may want to find a video or two on youtube. They are super easy to sharpen, but if you try to put a secondary bevel on it (as you would with most knives), it could end up being a bad time.

u/TheSharpDoctor · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Freehand and under $15 the Whetstone Cutlery 400/1000 Grit Whetstone is a nice starting affordable freehand whetstone.

Guided and under $25 the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener is a nice mini complete package that includes a 220 grid diamond plate for chip repair, a fine 600 grit diamond plate, 1000+ grit ceramic rod and a leather strop with compound.

You can also send the knife back to Kershaw for a free sharpening then just invest in a nice strop with compound to touch up the edge. Done properly you only need to send it back to Kershaw probably once a year if that.

u/PhenomenalDouche · 11 pointsr/knifeclub

My favorite knife by far to whittle with is this one, the Cold Steel Tuff Lite:

http://i.imgur.com/w0PhkOw.jpg

I use it, and the smaller version of it, the Mini Tuff Lite, for most of my carving (full disclosure, I'm a novice wood carver who just enjoys killing time noodling around).

While I generally prefer the inexpensive Cold Steel knives, I do own a dozen or so dedicated carving knives of a wide variety of makers, including some custom knives.

For an inexpensive option in fixed blades I really like the Mora 120 and Mora 122:

http://i.imgur.com/6L0w1lZ.jpg

I do also own some traditional whittlers, but I really haven't ever warmed up to carving with them.

I use the Tuff Lite knives so much that I've got an assortment of them, and have converted some of them to prison-shank style fixed blades by wrapping them heavily for comfort:

http://i.imgur.com/j8pN4Gd.jpg

They're cheap, sturdy and easy to sharpen. I do use a file to break the edges on the blade spine when I get them, but other than that I find them incredible comfortable to carve with. I frequently complete entire projects with nothing but the Tuff Lite (though I do have a collection of gouges and chisels and such as well, I prefer to work with a knife).

http://i.imgur.com/3tbo2Ds.jpg

u/jarvis959 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I recommend this a lot, but the work sharp guided bench stones are great to learn on. The stones are diamond, so they'll handle any supersteel and the little guides on the end are unobtrusive but really help to get a feel of what the angles should be. It's also around the price of a sharpmaker but will build your freehanding skills. Oh, and get the upgrade kit for quick reprofiling and a shinier edge.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X9KU3GO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494366178&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Work+sharp&dpPl=1&dpID=41nt%2B0fEixL&ref=plSrch

u/HellRaZoR1650 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Long time follower on r/knifeclub and this is my first post! It's been almost 2 years since my last knife purchase so I figured it was time.


I'm over in Alberta, Canada so knives (Besides buck and gerber) are pretty slim without ordering.
I hopped on to amazon.ca and found paramilitary 2's for for $154.99 CAD! You can't even get them from the states for that cheap!

Heres the link : https://www.amazon.ca/Spyderco-ParaMilitary2-Camo-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B004VZVI88/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


I've always been a huge fan of the delica and VG-10 so when I saw the blue delica 4 in stock I had to add it to my cart as well.
I've also been practicing freehand sharpening so I figured I may as well get a 3rd and see how I like 8cr13mov.
(Didn't get to include the Opinel #8 I also got!)

u/Dondervuist · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I really like the Mora HighQ Robust. For $16 it has stood up to whatever I've thrown at it on 1-2 day trips. And for that reason I can't seem to justify spending more on a woods blade that I'm just going to beat up anyhow. I really like the idea of the 01, 3V, or even S30V blades, but honestly I think it's kind of overkill for what I need. The edge retention is fine on the Mora and there's something to be said for being able to strop a blade back to razor sharp in just a few strokes out in the field and the Moras do that beautifully.

u/stephengee · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Kershaw Half-ton is a fun little pint size to have in the collection, but I wouldn't EDC it. And its dirt cheap.

As for EDC worthy, love me some dragonfly. Also hear lots of good things about the Cold Steel Mini Tuff Lite

u/Alfonso_X_of_Castile · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Assuming you don't have a sharpening system already, I'd recommend a Victorinox Fibrox 7-Inch Granton Edge Santoku Knife and a Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker. Without a good sharpening system, no knife will be of any use, no matter how expensive or nice. And the Victorinox line of kitchen knives are a joy to use and it's easy to get a very fine edge on them with the sharp maker (I use a Victorinox Fibrox 8-Inch Chef's Knife).

The total will be more like $118, but trust me, it's worth it.

u/space-rain · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Those are some sexy knives!

At home the 8" Victorinox Fibrox Pro Chef's Knife: https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Fibrox-Chefs-Knife-8-Inch/dp/B008M5U1C2 takes good care of what I throw at it. But I do have an itch for a sexy japanese wife, I mean KNIFE. Don't tell my wife I said that...

u/no_eu · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The first sharpener I got was a Natural Stones Lansky system which was fine. It doesn't require much skill and it got my knives sharp enough to shave hairs off. If you opt for a Lanksy though, I would recommend the Diamond Stones because they cut faster and are easier to clean.

When I started freehand sharpening, I got a Smith's Tri-hone which worked nicely. It was cheap and I was bad at freehanding, but with a good bit of practice, trial and error, and some instructional videos I was able to produce hair shaving edges consistently. And eventually, I decided I favored freehand sharpening over fixed angle sharpeners.

However, I gave away my Lansky and Smith's Tri-hone. Right now, I use DMT continuous sharpening stones. They cut very fast and I like them a lot. I'm a broke college student, so all I have is the Coarse, Fine, and Extra Fine stones which I can consistently get a toothy edge that will still shave hairs.

I'd say I'm still pretty bad at freehand sharpening. I don't always hold consistent angles and sometimes I fuck up a knife pretty bad, but I usually know what I did wrong and try to improve the next time I sharpen a knife. So whatever you get, meter your expectations. The first few knives you sharpen probably won't come out the best, but with enough practice, and especially patience, at the very least you'll get your knife sharp again.

u/gelatomancer · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I like my Worksharp Field Sharpener. Diamond stones, ceramic, and a strop with a guide for 26 bucks. Also, great for camping when you get a nicer set.

u/nreyes238 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

If I needed to use my knife all day everyday, I would go with a [Paramilitary 2 in S110V](SPYDERCO C81GPDBL2 Paramilitary 2 Dark Blue G10 Handle Clip Point Plain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0144QJ8YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NhFSybQ1D6H5J).

Decently light weight, fantastic steel, great in hand.

u/VaguePeeSmell · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I’ve had this Tojiro Gyuto for about 6 months now and absolutely love it. Definitely recommended.

u/lettuceses · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The answer to that will depend on your experience and ability to care for your knives.

TL;DR: In the category of budget knives. For longer lasting edges, Tojiro DP Santoku or Gyuto for $43 and 52, respectively. For easier maintenance, Cangshan D or Henckels Forged Synergy for $30 and $35, respectively.



As a caveat, budget knives of all sorts are not going to have the fit and finish of higher priced knives. For Knives that are easy to obtain lump you into two categories that have pros and cons, German hardness and Japanese hardness. Which is mainly a trade off between sharpness/edge holding vs durability/ease of maintenance. Although you can sharpen really soft metals to be stupid sharp and a really acute angle, it will not last long at all. But when the edge gets rolled over from a cutting session, it can be easily honed back into place. Harder knives can still be honed back into place, but techniques and tools are slightly different--I would never touch my harder knives with a grooved steel.

German hardness is usually around 56-58 hrc. Hard enough to hold an edge for a bit, but soft enough to not chip and easily steel/hone back into place.

The Victorinox Fibrox at about 55 hrc used to be suggested all the time when it was $20 and even when it was about $35. But now that it is $45, that's just too much for what is a very cheap knife.

A couple knives still in this range, which are better quality than the fibrox anyway are:
The Cangshan D Series 59120 German Steel Forged Chef's Knife at 56-60 hrc for $30

http://www.amazon.com/Cangshan-59120-German-Forged-8-Inch/dp/B013KZDVRA

and The Henckels International Forged Synergy 8-inch Chef's Knife at about 57-58 hrc for $35

http://www.amazon.com/HENCKELS-INTERNATIONAL-Forged-Synergy-8-inch/dp/B000FMVS4A

Henckels International (not regular Henckels) used to be really bad because they made their knives to 53-55 hrc, which is way too soft to hold an edge to get through a cooking session without nearly constant honing. I've heard their international classics are still being made w/ the crappy steel.


Japanese hardness is usually at least 59 hrc, with a good chunk in the 60-62 range. This means potentially better, longer lasting cutting performance between honing/sharpening. The tradeoff is that it becomes more difficult to get to this stage without specialty tools or sending it to a professional sharpener. At this point I personally don't even consider knives under 59 hrc, unless it's something that really takes a beating.

For the cheapest price point, while still having quality. I would really only recommend the Tojiro DP at 60-61 hrc. It used to be about double the prices, but the grinds also used to be more even. Either way, it's still a great buy.

The chef/gyuto is $52

http://www.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Gyutou-8-2-21cm/dp/B000UAPQGS/

And the Santoku is $43

http://www.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Santoku-6-7-17cm/dp/B000UAPQEA/

So the main difference here is whatever knife shape you prefer. I've gotten some cheaper harder steel knives, but I've had to do way too much touching up to be recommended.

u/SmileAndDonate · 1 pointr/knifeclub


Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | Tojiro DP Gyutou - 8.2" (21cm)
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

u/FastTurtleFour · 1 pointr/knifeclub

That's what I'm hoping. I'm really excited haha. I've been researching for days, and I think what I'm going to get is this bad boy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CO0224?vs=1

u/NANEWA · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

The only piece of equipment you need is a dual side wet stone with a medium grit on one side and high grit on the other. Stone sharpening has a bit of a learning curve, but it is an indispensable skill to acquire if you plan on keeping up with knives in general.

Edit: A bit down the line you'll want to invest in a flattening stone or something of the like to help keep your stone from dishing with use.

u/Nathan51503 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I own a worksharp guided field sharpener $29
And a worksharp guided sharpener (tabletop)

Easy to use and makes a shaving edge I stay away from belt drive sharpeners. Kinda feel like they remove too much material from a edge and shortens the life of the knife

Read the amazon reviews for the field sharpener
Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener - sharpening guides, diamond plate, ceramic rod, leather strop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YKHZ96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GQ2YCbEBYWV4H

u/turkeypants · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

r/knives has a weekly sharpening thread stickied at the top where you can loiter and learn. I'm like you and am currently looking at the $25 Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, a compact boi that has diamond plates, ceramic rods, a leather strop, and sharpening angle guides. I don't need it for field use, but I just want to get a taste basically. As my first dip into sharpening other than the little stones that came in the pockets of fixed blade sheaths, I figure it's a good place to start to touch things up a bit and get some practice. Maybe once I do a bit of that and learn a bit more, I might upgrade to something more.

u/JimmyRnj · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Himalayan Imports and KhuKuri House are the ones I'm familiar with for traditional kukris. I have a Condor Heavy Duty Kukri, and have been pretty happy with it.

u/Mr_Cellaneous · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I also have the WorkSharp guided sharpener (https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSGSS-Guided-Sharpening/dp/B00X9KU3GO) which I could take the guiudes off and practice free hand. I've heard DMT plates are the way to go though

u/SinfulCheeze · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I would definitely recommend wiping the blades down with oil or some other rust resistant product such as a TufCloth. Probably couldn't hurt to throw a desiccant of some sort into the cabinet/drawer/wherever you store your gear to soak up the moisture out of the air.

u/infinity526 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Well, it's $37 and change new right now, so 32 PP gift, shipping included?

u/Bounce_Whit_Mee · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I just bought one too! I was researching upkeep and it seems like the three big things are:

  • Learning how to sharpen on a cheap blade (I bought an Opinel 8 for this)
  • Protection from rust
  • Lubrication for folders

    With that said, has anyone ever used TUF CLOTH for cleaning and blade maintenance? I bought a fixed blade ESEE and that is what they recommend so I figured I could use it on all blades correct?
u/ARKnife · 1 pointr/knifeclub

You've said small EDC knife with a wharncliffe blade - you've said the Leek.

Might get it in the composite blade version if you'd like a better steel (it's on sale now).

u/Vecced · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

What I do is get a Tuf-Cloth and wipe down the blade before you put it away

Some rust prevention tests can be found here and here so you can see what works best.

u/Jinkles · 1 pointr/knifeclub

likely a belt type sharpening system like the worksharp ken onion edition, with some practice you too can put edges on your own knives like this - https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-KO-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499885302&sr=8-2&keywords=ken+onion+worksharp+belts

u/UntakenUsername48753 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

What are you basing that on, your meticulous tracking of Amazon prices?

https://camelcamelcamel.com/Spyderco-Paramilitary2-Black-Blade-Plainedge/product/B004TXMFQQ

Some pretty big deltas there. It reached $99 a few months ago, almost exactly $40 less than the typical $138 MAP. Did their inventory turn into fakes that day? Who said this guy didn't buy it in a matter of minutes? You sure are backpedaling on your guarantee that they are all fakes at that price.

u/rollsteelertide · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

I like my Leek. It’s a quality knife with a smooth action that holds an edge well.

u/CosmicRave · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Depends on how high end you want to go, really. My favorite brand is Masakage or Shiki.

If you're rocking a Vnox though the next reasonable step up is the Tojiro DP

u/bobadrunk · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

$100 - Wusthof 8" Chefs Knife



$40 - J.A. Henckels 8" Chefs Knife


$35 - Victorinox Fibrox (If you want the Victorinox but don't like the handle, get the rosewood version for a couple bucks more)

Then get their corresponding utility/paring knives for smaller/finer work. Personally, I went with the Henckels I listed mainly for aesthetics and value and got a Tojiro DP Petty Knife, mainly because I'm used to heavy western chef knives but I also wanted to try out a Japanese style kitchen knife. Learn to handle a knife properly, get a good cutting board (end-grain wood boards ideally), and they should last you for life.

u/In_the_air · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Here would be a few of my suggestions. Some are bit more $ but worth it.

ZT 450

Benchmade 940

Benchmade Knife 551-1 Griptilian

Boker Plus Kwaiken Flipper

u/gonzolahst · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

They're very solid and have great blade steel for the money. I can't think of a better fixed-blade beater knife at such a low price point. I got this one and use it mainly for gardening.

u/EmericTheRed · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

For your money, there's nothing better to start with than a King 1k/6k combo stone. I personally hate long soaking stones (splash and go is the way to do it imo), but it has fantastic feedback and lets you practice/develop your muscle memory on the cheap.

u/daaper · 1 pointr/knifeclub

To piggyback on your question, does anyone have experience with the Work Sharp? I'm looking for a system that can also do my recurves and this one gets really good reviews.

u/Peoples_Bropublic · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Here ya go It's a helluva hunk of a knife. Just got mine a couple of days ago. Clips right on to your belt, and has a knob that you can hang your other Mora from. even the spine of the blade was polished, which is a nice touch for Mora.

What kind of craftline do you have already?

u/HamwiseVonTossington · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Same knife, just get your preferred size. I happen to prefer the Delica. The extra ~$15 for the [ZDP-189 blade] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CO0224?pc_redir=1397668353&robot_redir=1) is well worth it btw.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I have one of these. Aside from a nice, dark patina on my blade, it's the same as when I bought it. It's a bit thicker blade than the standard stainless.

u/Nitrogen_triiodide · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Would something like this King whetstone be good enough to get shaving sharp? I was thinking about getting it but then I read reviews for the sharpmaker and now I'm conflicted.

u/lightinthedark · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Victorinox Fibrox is the best bang for the buck around. 4.8/5 stars with almost 2,200 reviews, hard to argue with that.

Beyond that is mostly aesthetics.

u/Joemartucci · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

For those that don't know, its a Spyderco Paramilitary 2. I have wanted one since I got my tenacious over a year ago and finally pulled the trigger! Excited to break it in.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VZVI88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/weps_grd_pandemonium · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I think Tuf cloths work well with D2. I'm not sure if you would want to cut food with that, but you could always use food grade mineral oil as well.

u/badcompanygg · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Would anyone here recommend this belt sharpener from Work Sharp?

Work Sharp WSKTS-KO Knife and Tool Sharpener Ken Onion Edition

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTLKzbNHCEEDZ

u/askeeve · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Just making sure, this is what you were referring to?

u/Smooth1076 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I ordered this knife from amazon, this link: https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-Knife-940-Plain-Handle/dp/B000QA9G2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511052177&sr=8-1&keywords=benchmade+940

I have a box with the tags and the little bag and everything and it feels just the griptilian I own. But the action isn't as smooth at my griptilian and there are the main concerns listed in the album. I don't understand why it says 'benchmade.com/pat' and it doesn't even seem very centered or aligned.

Is this a fake or real?

u/thedarkestknight95 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Benchmade 940 Osborne rift design. I will never buy another knife for my EDC rotation ever again.

Here's an Amazon link for it

Benchmade 940 Osborne Design Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QA9G2W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Qdxoub0XGJDVD

u/TheStuffle · 1 pointr/knifeclub

They're in stock on amazon right now.

EDIT: Nevermind that's not a Para 2. I had to wait a few weeks, and just kept checking back until they were in stock.

u/peachcutters · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

That's a different knife, if you want to compare apples to apples, this is what you want: http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660CKT-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9YK

u/kamspy · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

Not many folders have a differential heat treatment. Mcusta might be the way to go for that price. For right about $450 you can check out https://www.lamnia.com/en/sc/7/knives/folding-knives?sgid=7&mid=671 It's the only thing I can think of that has that look.

Mcusta is kinda crap on the build quality and ergonomics. I think they're a little cheap for the price.

While none of these are true Hamon's in that it's actually differential heat treatment, this one has the look and is actually 2 types of steel welded together. Cooler in my opinion. And affordable and quality. https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Composite-1660CB-Reversible-Pocketclip/dp/B0017KN4MS

u/gigajim · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

To add to Mr. /u/toadthenewsense, you can get a single DMT stone with coarse on one side and fine on the other for roughly $43.

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D6FC-6-Inch-Dia-Sharp-Double-Sided/dp/B000GD8WHY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487684169&sr=8-3&keywords=coarse+fine+dmt

I prefer the 8" stones myself but I'm not sure if you want to sink more into sharpening than the knife cost.

u/Shocktanis · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I have the combination blade that’s CPM-D2 cutting edge and the sandvik spine. I found it on amazon here if you’re looking Kershaw Leek, Composite Blade (1660CB) 3” Sandvik 14C28N/D2 Composite Blade with 410 Stainless Steel Handle, Features SpeedSafe Assisted Opening with Flipper, Frame Lock, Reversible Pocketclip; 3.1 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017KN4MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H93YAb2NFSH8Y

u/Dogwithrabiez · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

For that price, I'd spring for the spyderco sharpmaker instead, or just get a set of King 1000/6000 stones.

u/Buixer · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Cold Steel 20MT Mini Tuff Lite Plain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MNAKYM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kOdQub1G794WP

Ive gotten used to one hans opening but might need 2 hands for some people. Comes in other neon colors too.

Or:

Spyderco Dragonfly2 Lightweight Black FRN PlainEdge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GUL6IA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HRdQub0CW8JGJ

u/faithdies · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

Victorinox 8 Inch Fibrox Pro Chef's Knife

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M5U1C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4q-nybP2R8NMR

That's the one I'm thinking of.

u/cloud_cleaver · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Work Sharp WSGFS221 Guided Field Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YKHZ96/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gqk3xb51Z4QPY

I've seen this well recommended. It includes a strop, though you'll still need a compound to put on it.

u/SlimPickin2600 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Was debating between that and Guided Sharpening System Work Sharp https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00X9KU3GO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_u7xsDb0EM69Z7

As temporary options

u/sauceLegs · 1 pointr/knifeclub

With this bladesteel and scales? link?

NVM, found it

u/sirbirdface · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Here is the item page. "Ships from and sold by Amazon.com". I actually received one that I believe to be genuine, but it had a slightly warped tip. I requested an exchange, and the replacement I got was the fake.

It's unlike anything I've seen in the fake vs real comparisons. The most obvious difference is the texture of the G10 - much coarser on the fake. Smaller details include the size and thickness of the plastic bag the knife comes wrapped in, minute differences in the blade etchings and pocket clip.