(Part 2) Top products from r/knifemaking

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We found 20 product mentions on r/knifemaking. We ranked the 124 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/knifemaking:

u/vomeronasal · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

There's a lot of different directions that you could go in, depending on what you want. The best sharpening is done on bench stones, but they have a learning curve. You can also use a jig system like the lansky and get good results. These are great because you can set an angle and keep it, but you are limited in the number of angles you can set (bench stones obviously are not).

I wouldn't recommend either of the sets you list, as they each have three pieces but all of them are basically the same grit. What is your price range?

I really think the best bang for your buck is the basic lansky system: https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Standard-Coarse-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8L6LI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493602647&sr=8-3&keywords=lansky+system

It's pretty inexpensive for the basic set (the diamond set is worth it if you want to spend the extra money), pretty easy to use, and works well for most knives.

There are lots of videos on youtube that show good sharpening technique for bench stones. Murray Carter (master bladesmith) has a good dvd series on sharpening if you want to go down the free-hand route.

u/Jackel1994 · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Yeah ill just copy paste something i sent someone else who had a 300 dollar budget. The only real big things id say you NEED are a few hand files, a bench vise and the steel to make from. Otherwise look into the 1x30 sander and some belts that are linked. Pick through it, all the links have prices in them so let me know what you think!

Okay going to make this short and concise. These are all my opinions to make blades.

u/Weebus · 3 pointsr/knifemaking

I'd say it's doable, especially with the equipment you've listed.

Find a copy of this book if you can. Best resource out there for building folders.

Use a quality waterjet provider and you can jet out the knives with little cleanup. You'll still have to clean up holes though... ream the pivots, drill and tap the other holes, etc.

Most people assemble the whole knife and get the opening+lockup working properly before they heat treat and grind bevels. It requires a lot of fit-up, taking apart, etc to get everything working properly... you probably won't be able to make the blade then work on the frame while it's in HT.

Make a jig to grind bevels if you don't have experience free-handing. There are simple ones that work very well.

Read read read. There are lots of WIP threads on the forums that will help you. Knifedogs, BF Shop Talk, Britishblades, etc.

u/KOTJMF · 1 pointr/knifemaking

I think you'll find that there is more material out there for slipjoints than lockbacks, but there is some stuff. Here is a decent list of folding knife work-in-progress posts and tutorials on the Knife Dogs forums. It has tons of tutorials and WIPs, for folders of all kinds as well as fixed blades and just general knifemaking techniques. I also have this book, which is very good. One more option would be to buy a lockback kit from a knifemaker supply shop, like USA Knifemaker and copy the pattern or something.

u/HeNe632 · 1 pointr/knifemaking

The cheapest way? If you're using a Gough jig, you can use a protractor to rig your angle, and tightly wrap your file in 220 grit sandpaper (you can also use a piece of flat steel for more precision). Then progress through the grits, raising a burr each time. Use the rough side old leather belt (I stole one of my husband's) as a strop. Green Polishing Compound on an old belt after using 2500 grit sandpaper will get you plenty sharp.

I sharpened our kitchen knives for a couple years before starting bladesmithing using this method. It'll easily create a good shaving edge, and is much faster than a lansky

u/doomsday_solforge · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Not to endorse a specific vendor, but I just ordered this:
http://www.amazon.com/Scrap-Leather-Medium-Brown-Cowhide/dp/B006UUHUDO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and made a sheath from it today.

Having done this a few times, my best recommendation to you is to get 6-7 oz leather of whatever color floats your boat.

What kind of stitching do you do? I use an awl with two needles, per the instructions in this book: http://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1464597294&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=hand+stiching+leather

u/tavaroxe · 3 pointsr/knifemaking

These two are my favorites for beginning.

The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection https://www.amazon.com/dp/099870816X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z.gZBbA2WBWF1

Step-by-Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It! https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615116590/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SahZBbKKD1BDF

u/Scuzzbag · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

Thanks, I'm not a knife maker as much as I am someone who works in a shop with tools a lot.

This is the book that got me going, it's alright but it talks more about the man than helpful stuff you need to know. I do everything he says because he seems to be the master. Some of his knives are being sold on eBay for upwards of $100,000.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1440211558/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/178-6782429-0947061

u/ShaneInDenver · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Have you thought about buying the Atlas Mini burner and then just buying some fire brick and build something?

I'm doing stock removal, so a basic 2 brick forge and a larger pencil torch get's things hot enough for me, but I kinda regret not buying a better burner. Here is the burner I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT245C-Propane-Pencil-Burner/dp/B000646QRG

I would have been much better off buying the Atlas Mini burner and adding that to my homemade forge:

https://usaknifemaker.com/atlas-small-burner.html

Here's a great tutorial I used to build my two brick forge:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/virtual-bbq-2-brick-forge-wip.920120/

u/CyphersFallen · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Edgemaking System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IXQD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PISdBbHXJEBEZ

I really recommend this. It works great and makes em scary sharp.

u/dkwpqi · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Thank you for the info. Are you referring to a blade like that? Lenox 20582-956R 9-Inch 6TPI Wood and Metal Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0000224T4/

u/Heartattaq · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

Drag a file across the steel, see if it bites into it, or skates across it. if it skates across the steel has been hardened. I do not know why it would come from amazon hardened but anything is possible.

As for the Blades, I have only ever used Starrett blades, in my opinion when I find something that works well for me, I get the if it isnt broke dont fix it mentaility, so I usually use these /dp/B000FCER8Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=starrett+hacksaw+blade&qid=1570649165&sr=8-2.

If you do have to anneal the steel, Have a look at this article, it will not only instruct you on how to anneal, but will give you an understanding as to why, so you arent just going through the motions. https://www.instructables.com/id/An-Introduction-to-Heat-Treating-Carbon-Steels-Ann/

u/thats_not_gravy · 1 pointr/knifemaking

I'm interested in building one of these. About how long does one of these cans last in one of these?

Also, would one of the basic use BernzOmatic Basic Use Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head work with one of these, or does it need to be one of the higher-intensity torches?

u/GrinderMonkey · 4 pointsr/knifemaking

Remember that you don't have to spend $200 for an top level angle grinder. I got by with $15 harbor freight cheapy for years before I started taking welding gigs, after which it burned out right quick. The more expensive ones are meant to be used hard, day in and day out. Cutting a few knives out, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9523NBH-4-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B0000223J4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415087089&sr=1-1&keywords=angle+grinder at $50 will getcha a long way.

u/free_will_is_arson · 1 pointr/knifemaking

right-o, i tend to lean more towards fixed blades but a nuisance and/or hazard is just that, at best a nuisance and at worst a hazard (plus, your preference, use the knife you want to use). i would also ask, is this something you are cleared to use at work, most places have very strict and/or odd rules when it comes to personal knives being used for work purposes. it would just really suck to go through all this just have the knife banned or confiscated during the first week you use it.

have you considered something like this or this or this or maybe even something like this. have you considered something like a folding linoleum knife.

u/Dag3n0 · 1 pointr/knifemaking

2x42" just isnt verry common in the EU imho if we are talking about something liket this https://www.amazon.com/Palmgren-Belt-bench-finishing-machine/dp/B0006577HI

what is more common over here are these types:
https://www.amazon.de/Einhell-Stand-Bandschleifer-Grobschleifscheibe-Schleifband-Scheibendurchmesser/dp/B00HT952FI

Which arent great as the motor is really weak and stalls out under medium pressure + the belt is at an awkward angle and the stone housing is in the way while grinding from the left.

There is also this type: https://www.amazon.de/Bandschleifer-Tellerschleifer-station%C3%A4ren-Ryobi-rbds4601g/dp/B073V5L71L/

Which often have the problem that one side is not accesible to the edge which makes using them awkward.

Lastly something like this: https://www.amazon.de/Metabo-601750000-BS-175-Kombi-Bandschleifmaschine/dp/B003U3U2SY/

Which still has the problem with the wheel housing but has longer belts and a stronger motor and the arm is adjustable. But as it is a rather uncommon size belts are rather expensive imho.