Top products from r/lawncare
We found 266 product mentions on r/lawncare. We ranked the 471 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Southern Ag Amine 24-D Weed Killer, White Bottle
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 16
Selective Broadleaf Weed ControlFor use in pastures & rangeland, lawns, golf courses, cemeteries, parks,& similar ornamental turf.
2. Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator Manual Grass Dethatching Turf Plug Core Aeration Tool ID-6C
Sentiment score: 9
Number of reviews: 15
REMOVES TWO ½” WIDE 3 ½ INCH GRASS PLUG LAWN CORES, reducing soil compaction and dethatching your lawn while letting air, water and fertilizer get down to the roots of your yard.REDUCES RUNOFF AND PROMOTES TURF GROWTH. Your lawn will look better with less water and fertilizer.HAND HELD LAWN AERA...
3. Greenworks 14-Inch 10 Amp Corded Dethatcher 27022
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 15
14-Inch Dethatching PathPowerful 10 Amp Motor3-Position Tine Depth AdjustmentStainless Steel TinesFoldable Handles For Compact Storage4-Year Tool Warranty Protects Your Investment
4. Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash, 1 Pack
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 14
Quick, at home results for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphrous and PotashInnovative and inexpensive soil test kit features an easy-to-use capsule system and patented color comparatorsContains all components needed for 40 tests. 10 for each of pH, N, P and KSimple, detailed instructions included. Great f...
5. Compare-N-Save 016869 Concentrate Grass and Weed Killer, 41-Percent Glyphosate, 1-Gallon , White
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 12
Rainproof in 2 hoursVisible results in as little as 2 to 4 daysContains 41-percent glyphosateCovers over 25,000 square feetMakes up to 85 gal. of ready-to-use spray. Note: Packaging may vary
6. Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides Non-Ionic, 16oz, 1 Pint
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 12
Non-ionic surfactantIncreases your herbicides effectiveness16. oz.
7. Quali-Pro Prodiamine 65 WDG (Generic Barricade 65 WDG) (5 lbs) - Pre-Emergent Herbicide
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 12
PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDE: Quali-Pro's Prodiamine 65 WDG provides pre-emergent grass and broadleaf weed control. Flexible application allows for both spring and fall use providing season long crabgrass control. Available in a 5 pound bottle.PRODUCT TYPE: ProfessionalUSE SITES: Nurse, Landscape, Turf, T...
8. Tenacity Turf Herbicide - 8 ounces
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 11
Tenacity is a systemic pre-emergence and post-emergence herbicide for the selective contact and residual control of weeds in turfgrasses.When applied as a pre-emergent, weeds absorb Tenacity during emergence from the soil.Target pests: Barnyardgrass, Carpetweed, Chickweed, Clover, Crabgrass (large &...
9. Soil Savvy - Soil Test Kit | Understand What Your Lawn or Garden Soil Needs, Not Sure What Fertilizer to Apply | Analysis Provides Complete Nutrient Analysis & Fertilizer Recommendation On Report
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 10
Soil Testing Simplified! Soil Savvy is a Ready-To-Use professional-grade soil test kit available to the general public that provides an Easy-To-Understand fertilizer recommendation tailored to your specific soil.Analysis provides a full report, comprised of soil pH and 14 nutrients including (N,P,K)...
10. Liquid Aerating Soil Loosener- Aerator Soil Conditioner- No Mechanical or Core Aeration- Simple Lawn Solutions- Any Grass Type, All Season- Great for Compact Soils, Standing Water, Poor Drainage.
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 10
Liquid Soil Aerator: Alternative to Physical, Core & Mechanical Aeration, Liquid Soil Loosener loosens compact soil and break apart hardpan. Aerating soil will help downward movement of water allowing more water and air to get to the roots.Soil Conditioner: Enhances soil structure, detoxifies soil a...
11. Scotts Turf Builder Starter Food for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer - 2-in-1 Formula - Fertilizes New Grass and Prevents Weeds Like Crabgrass and Dandelions - Covers 5,000 sq. ft.
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 8
2-in-1 formula feeds new grass and prevents weeds for up to 6 weeksPrevents crabgrass, dandelions, and other weeds from invading your new grassImproves seeding results--also great for sod and grass plugsUse on any grass type, whether you're planting new grass, starting a new lawn, or reseeding an ex...
12. Sun Joe AJ801E 13 in. 12 Amp Electric Scarifier + Lawn Dethatcher w/Collection Bag, Green
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 7
Powerful: 12-amp motor rakes a 13" wide path to get your job done fasterAdjustable deck: tailor raking depth with 5-position depth controlScarified: use the Scarified function to cut grass roots for thicker growth, healthier lawnsAir boost technology: spring Steel tines for maximum thatch pickupAcce...
13. PBI/Gordon 652400 Speed Zone Lawn Weed Killer, 20-Ounce - Brown/A
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 6
Visible results in hours - Reseed in just two weeksCovers from 14,000 to 18,000 square feet - perfect for large property ownersRapid and effective weed control for common and troublesome weed species in turfgrassDoes not harm lawn grasses - Cool Weather PerformanceRESTRICTED: This product can NOT...
14. Toro Lawn Striping System
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 6
Assembled dimension: 13 in. w x 16.50 in. d x 24 in. hUse with or without bagger attachmentRoller easily removes for storage or areas where striping is not desiredEasy assembly with just a phillips screwdriverRequires 16-20 lbs. of dry sand not included
15. Field King Professional 190328 No Leak Pump Backpack Sprayer for Killing Weeds in Lawns and Gardens
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 5
Internal No Leak Pump design is safer to use chemicals will not drip down your back. Internal piston pump delivers up to 150 PSIDurable, 21 inch poly wand with the highest quality Viton seals can be used with Wet table powders and liquids for all applications does the work of both a piston and diaph...
16. BioAdvanced 704140 All-In-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer Garden Herbicide, 32-Ounce
Sentiment score: -2
Number of reviews: 5
Kills over 200 of the most Common broad leaf weeds like dandelions and CloversThis product won't harm you lawn when used as directedRainproof in 1 hourUse in tank Sprayers, dial-n-spray and hose-end SprayersThe fastest, easiest way to treat the entire lawn
17. Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis Killer for Lawns Concentrate, 16 oz.
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 5
Kills Creeping Charlie (Ground Ivy) and Wild VioletKills weeds to the rootsWon’t harm the lawn – Guaranteed (When used as directed.)Rainproof in 6 hoursTreats 3,200 sq. ft
18. ProPlugger 5-IN-1 Lawn Tool and Garden Tool, Bulb Planter, Weeder, Sod Plugger, Annual Planter, Soil Test
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 5
WATCH OUR VIDEO - Click the video to see the ProPlugger in action.PLANT LIKE A PRO – Step, twist, pull and you’re ready to plant. Dig 2 and 1/8 inch diameter planting holes quickly, one after another, from a comfortable standing position. Soil gets stored in the tool as you work and empties by t...
19. Melnor 4-Zone Digital Water Timer
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 4
Program four zones to water automatically or switch to manual watering with the twist of a knobMetal coupling nut with rubberized gripRetains programming through battery changesManual or automatic rain delayInstallation required in a particular order, please refer User Guide
20. Dow AgroSciences 173917 Eagle 20EW Fungicide, 16oz
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 4
Prevents and controls more than 15 fungal diseasesWell tolerated by popular turf and ornamental speciesSystemic fungicide that works from the inside out to protect new growthControls Dollar spot, Brown patch, Anthracnose, Spring dead spot, Necrotic ring spot, Red thread, Leaf spot, Powdery mildew, R...
I'm by no means an expert, so please take this advice with a grain of salt. Also, this is a bit long so I made a TL;DR at the end. I live in Southern Indiana, but I've recently taken an interest in fixing our new front yard. I will do my best to keep this advice as general as possible. I think you might have a week or two left to try my steps, if you want to take this approach. I think your temps are still low enough that the grass hasn't hit the spring "growth and changes" yet. However, if you can't get it in the next few weeks, you might have to plan out your fall steps during this summer, and then around Sept(?) you could dethatch, rent a plug aerator, overseed, and cover the seed with some top soil and wait. Over winter those seeds are supposed to lay dormant until next spring. However, I'm not about fertilizer in the fall, so you'd have to look up info on that.
My general rule is to try to follow the overall starter advice from The Lawn Care Nut, which is mainly "know your lawn square footage, and break it into zones", "have a plan and try to stick to it", and then "mow extra high and very often" (most important one, IMO). For me, it's 3 zones of Front, Side, and Back. It's ~13,000 sq ft total, but this year I focused on the side (~1,750 sq ft), and the front yard (~3,600 sq ft). So a little over 5,300 sq ft when I'm talking about effort/hours/costs/etc.
Be aware if you do follow these steps, your yard will look like CRAP for a few weeks... But after 14-21 days, I REALLY think it will turn around!
As far my spring starter-plan/steps, I used:
Other than that, I simply try to spot check weeds. I did learn a few things that I will keep using throughout the year. This includes overseeding again in the fall to make my spring start a bit easier next year. I do also plan on re-applying some mid-strength (10-10-10, maybe?) fertilizer in about 6-8 weeks... I think it will need to be a lot softer/lighter of an application because of the heat we can get during Indiana summers.
I think your temps are/have been fairly close to ours in Indiana. So if you're willing to put in a few evenings or a weekend of some pretty hard work, then remember to water it all afterwards daily, I think you can turn your yard around!! Below I will put a few before(ish) and current/"after" pictures to help give you an idea of the "bad times" and then also how great it can also turn out!
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Before picture. I only took pictures after dethatching and picking up the excess grass/thatch. This was April 27th, 2019. - https://imgur.com/a/SMv4FsL
During, which was about 14-15 days in... Regular spring growth and I already had little germination sprouts! This was May 11th, 2019. - https://imgur.com/a/xvnExPH
Taken yesterday. Not much change from the 11th, but it still looks like it's growing, in my opinion. May 13th, 2019. - https://imgur.com/a/3iH1VfW
For posterity, this is most of the front yard. Work was done May 4th-6th... Taken May 13th, 2019, at 9:21pm, sorry for the low quality. - https://imgur.com/a/G6OdDaj
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I hope this helps! I know I feel very proud of my progress so far, especially being the first year. Normally it's about a 2 year process to turn a yard around, IIRC. I think I got lucky with mediocre spring temps and decent amount of rain so far!
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TL;DR - If mid-late spring temps and rain allow, mow on lowest setting, dethatch until you see bare soil in patch spots, rough any bare spots that you won't cover with soil, overseed the HECK out of it, fertilizer with high nitrogen (35-0-6 worked well for me in Indiana with a "never before fertilized lawn"), cover as many bare spots as you can with high quality soil, and water water water! (At least once a day for a few weeks, if not more. I think the more you water "evenly", or at least once daily, the more chance your grass will grow like crazy! At least that's my theory...)
I would get the below, should make it way easier and have some left over - again, judging the size of the lawn by the picture. Although you might buy only 32oz of a liquid product - make sure to check the label/bag rate application as this will tell you if you are buying a concentrate or a diluted product. Concentrate will serve you best in terms of cost/performance for multiple applications but you might not want or might not be able to store excess chemicals - decide which method is best for you but I would stick with liquid applications because your yard is on the smaller side and you wont have to worry about storing heavy bags of product. I use liquid on the front of my lawn because thats my $10,000 view and granular on my side and rear lawn so that I can spread my costs and also be efficient with my time since I have a wife and kid haha.
https://smile.amazon.com/Simple-Lawn-Solutions-Concentrated-Fertilizer/dp/B01CKK1CPO/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=hose+end+sprayer&qid=1566905833&s=gateway&sr=8-18
https://smile.amazon.com/Conditioner-Mechanical-Simple-Lawn-Solutions/dp/B071VWCRBD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=liquid+aeration&qid=1566905660&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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https://smile.amazon.com/Seaweed-Fulvic-Blend-Organic-Liquid/dp/B07QPB5H63/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=liquid%2Baeration&qid=1566905660&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1
Some really good youtube references is to watch: The Lawn Care Nut, Ryan Knorr (He does a few complete overhauls - so this would probably be your best bet), GCI Turf Academy (Pete is my favorite), and/or The Pest and Lawn Ginja (He has a smaller yard so might also be a good reference)
Here is an example video, I started following this guy because he has a bigger yard: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c54WSOI-MMc
(ignore where he said don't restart your lawn... because you have no lawn haha - otherwise its good)
Note: Your number one concern before all of these additives is to make sure the grass holds and establishes. So spend your CAD $ on good grass seed (Turf Type Tall Fescue is my favorite for my area but check with U of T for recommended blends for your area) and a good price for a 50 lb bag of seed is in/around $150 US - you will likely need 8-10 lbs per 1K square feet for new seeding - other grass types will vary in terms of application rate but it will be on the bag, good starter fertilizer (key word "starter" - regular fertilizer could burn your new grass), and a top dressing to hold the grass seed and keep birds/wind at bay (Peat moss is great but at $10 for 3 cubic feet here in the US it could add up fast - so again U of T soil science center is a great reference to refer to on cost effective ways to seed a new lawn)
Okay so. Here's what I'm thinking. I only saw the picture you posted, so it looks like you have 1,000 square feet or less, yes? That makes it kinda easy.
First we'll need to know which zone you're in. That will help pick your grass type. It looks like you have cool season grasses, which means you'll be choosing among various fescues, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, etc. That's kind of up to you. Do a little googling and see what you come up with.
Second, you have a lot of weeds in there. It looks like you have either poa annua (annual bluegrass) or poa trivialis (Hell on Earth), or possibly both mixed in there. Those are seriously not good. Not only do you have a lot of weeds, it looks like you might have a significant mix of grass types, and I'm not positive that it's worth saving. Here's what I would do. Keep in mind that this might be overkill for you.
From now until July:
Sometime in July:
Mid/late August:
After a couple months, you should have a pretty healthy crop of baby grass, and then it will go dormant for the winter. Not a problem. Once spring hits, start following this lawn care schedule from the Lawn Care Nut. Most of that guy's videos are gold, and I strongly recommend that you watch them.
It will take a little time and more than a fair amount of patience, but I'm pretty sure all of that will (at least for the first year) come in under budget, and it will end up with the results that you want. Especially in the long run.
EDIT(s): Forgot to mention a couple things. I had a little more whiskey than I thought.
Geographical zone will be in the sidebar.
Also go with a pre-emergent in the spring if you aren't adding seed. The most popular 3 brand names are Barricade, Dimension, and Tenacity. Their generic names are prodiamine, dithiopyr, and...tenacity? Honestly I'm not sure if there's a generic for Tenacity cause it's not legally usable in my state. But seriously a pre-emergent will cut your weed problems down by SO MUCH.
Estimated cost for the first year is $214 (minus water, topsoil/peat moss, and possibly tools such as a hand pump sprayer and a broadcast spreader) at the most, and $114 at the low end.
So for a real answer, yes, you can improve it but it will take time, effort, money, and commitment. The hardest thing will be establishing new grass (unless you sod) and keeping the dogs off of it for ~2 months so it can grow in thick as a nice base.
I would definitely mix clover into the seed mix (~10-15%), it does better with providing low height cover and dealing well with iffy soil and wear. You need to find a high traffic / wear resistant turf that can self repair. So seems like a kentucky bluegrass/self reparing TTTF mixture (~20/80) will be for you.
It will need intense care both with resources (fertilizer, water, maintenance) and time (mowing, dethatching, aerating), but it will be possible to have a very nice yard. You will get worn spots, thing spots, maybe brown urine spots, but overall you can make it look very good on your own.
Start in the spring and plan this all out. This is optional but I would use glyphosate (roundup) and kill all the existing grass to start new. Probably will take 2-3 applications 5-7 days apart (need 7-10 days before putting grass seed down). Then remove all that dead material with a rake or dethatching tool. Either rent, hire someone (~$40-100), or hand core aerate next. I would absolutely add 1/4-1/2 inch of quality top soil for a nice base. Then lay the seed down (and gently rake into the top soil) then add starter fertilizer. Get bulk peat moss and spread it out thinly (~1/4 inch) over everything. Peat moss will help retain mositure, prevent birds from eating the seed, and just protect it will it germinates. Then, water, water, water. Goal is to keep the seeds moist (not soaking wet). Water 2-3x a day for 10-15 min. Just to get the ground nice and wet and keep it moist. Do this for 2-3 weeks until the grass is growing. The fescue should sprout in 3-10 days, and the bluegrass can take up to 25 days or longer, but be patient. Mow when it starts to get too talk and looks like it will fall over. This will actually stimulate rapid growth and allow smaller grass to get light and fill in. Once all is good you will need to water once a week minimum for 25m or so to keep it alive and from going dormant. For fertilizer, easiest is to use an organic slow release like Milorganite or other organic fertilizer 4x a year (or follow their label for application times).
It's tough, but you will need to stay off of it as much as possible. If you start getting grass growing and they're still thin and small blades, the dogs will trample, kill it, and ruin your efforts.
This will be a heavy commitment as you can see and you'll really need to evaluate if it's worth your time, effort, and money. It's also not a guarantee the dogs won't kill it still, but to me it's worth it, especially when it's wet outside so the dogs are muddy/dirty all the time.
You can also have sod laid down ($$$) but you still need to care for it with watering and nutrients so the roots take hold. The wear from the dogs is also likely to hinder it.
This is the liquid aeration stuff I was talking about. https://www.amazon.com/Conditioner-Mechanical-Simple-Lawn-Solutions/dp/B071VWCRBD From what I've seen people really like it. I think it works best after long-term usage. I've used it a couple of times, along with my own concoctions that I've made mixed with humic acid and dish soap (look up the benefits of surfactants if you want to learn more about that) but basically it's the idea that you are breaking water surface tension on your soil allowing better absorption of chemicals, nutrients, and water. Combined with humic, fulvic, and/or sea kelp mixes it "conditions" your soil. If you really want to go down the rabbit hole on that topic check out the Youtube channel Lawncology he's like a soil expert. But the TL;DR is this may or may not replace mechanical aeration depending on how bad your soil is but it should improve the soil condition over time.
Milorganite can be applied with a the same spreader but at different settings if you want the full application rate. If you intend on applying both ferts at the same time you can do that but you may only be putting down about half the recommended rate of Milorganite at a time, which is still beneficial just not as much nitrogen going down which you may not even need since the Scotts has that. Personally I would apply them separately because the Scott's broadcast spreader you will want to drop Milorganite down at about a setting of 6.5 if I remember correctly, and the Scott's fert is probably around a 4.
Since you asked what I use, like I said I put down Milorganite twice a year, but around this time of year I like to really push my lawn hard since this is the best time for growth and spreading and making it healthy. I really like Lesco fertilizers. https://www.homedepot.com/p/LESCO-50-lbs-24-0-11-No-Phos-Fertilizer-080258/202310769 This one is excellent. It has iron in it just like Milorganite so you still get that dark emerald green color with it. Otherwise check out the Purely Organics 10-0-2 I've been meaning to try that one as well it looks like a winner.
EDIT: I did a video applying the Lesco fert (slightly different than the 24-0-11 in this video I applied an 18-24-12) but same procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeuX0wSK6CA and here is a video I did a while back applying Milorganite with the Scott's spreader https://youtu.be/ov7qvHQyIEk maybe that should help give you an idea!
I'm just up a bit north in MA 6B, so I can help.
I just read through this entire thread. You're doing it all wrong.
You put 60lbs of Scott's stuff for 1000 sq ft. Either you're measuring your yard incorrectly, or you just dumped waaaay too much synthetic fertilizer on your lawn. And you did it only once all season. Shame. I have about 10000 sq ft of yard, and 60lbs of synthetic is plenty enough for the spring.Nevermind, I read incorrectly. You still need to fertilize more than once a season.What you need to do is fix your thinking. Want lush, green, thick grass? You need to spend money on water and fertilizer. Want to save money on watering? You need to accept that your yard will be full of weeds and patchy brown grass. You also need to accept that the lawn will go dormant in July and August. That's fine. Let it go yellow, but keep it alive with water 1-2 times a week.
Here's the plan:
So, what do I do?
Choose your adventure, and good luck.
Edit: fixed details that I misread about your routine.
You are too late to seed. There is no way around this.
That said, if I were you, I would approach things in one of two ways:
- If your lawn is good enough that you can tolerate another 10 or 11 months of looking at it:
- If your lawn is so bad that you can't tolerate it :
Good luck!
OP this lawn looks like a pretty manageable size for a renovation. I can't tell what percentage of desirable turf (actual grass) you have in the backyard versus weeds, but the only things surviving in the front yard is almost 100% weeds so I wouldn't bother with fertilizing that.
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What I'd recommend is to leave the backyard go for this year. Maybe apply some fertilizer if there's a decent amount of surviving grass back there. But focus on the front yard. That looks worse, is more manageable to renovate, and frankly it's what people seed outside your house anyway.
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Scalp your front lawn by cutting as low as your mower will go. Aerating is a good next step as long as you can rent/have access to a core aerator. Since you had to dig into the yard, there's bound to be some uneven spots. Get a few yards of quality topsoil from a local landscape supplier and use it to level the front yard. After that, throw down some seed and a light layer of peat moss over top. Then some starter fertilizer. I'd recommend this Scott's Starter Fertilizer with Mesotrione in it. The starter fert will help your grass to grow once it germinates, and the Mesotrione is the same active ingredient as is in Tenacity which is a new-seed-safe herbicide you'll hear discussed around here a lot. It's a 5,000 sqft bag, so you'll certainly have some left over for the back yard too if you want to throw that down in the areas where you have grass back there. After that, water enough to keep the top inch of soil moist until you're outside of your germination window (depends on the seed type you use.)
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You've got to act quickly because we're nearing the end of our seeding window in parts of 7a. But, realistically for that front lawn you could do this all in a single day this weekend and you'd be fine.
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If you do this and have good results, you'll know what to expect and be better prepared to tackle the backyard next year. Best of luck OP!
Haha sorry!
So you do have grass there. It's dormant from the cold. Now is the time to prepare it for the transition to summer. The best offense against the weeds that come with summer is a good defense. A pre-emergent, like the name suggests, stops weeds before they have time to emerge/germinate. A weed control, also known as a post-emergent, is used to control the weeds that are currently visible.
http://www.imageforweeds.com/St-Augustine/index.html
The active ingredient in this product is Atrazine (always check the package label to make sure Atrazine is the listed active. Image for nuts edge is imazaquin which is not what you're looking for). It is a dual purpose herbicide that prevents and controls weeds to come and those visible. You can purchase it in a garden hose attachment form which makes application easy.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Trba9R9oU78
This is a pretty good tutorial. He's spraying ppre emergent but you can substitute any herbicide or pesticide. Measurements are key to a successful application. Measure the area of your backyard. If you have a 4,000 soft back yard, and the product calls for 1oz/1000 sqft, then you know to mix and apply for 4oz of material. Sometimes you'll see 16oz/acre ~ 16oz/44,000sqft ~ .4oz/1000sqft ~ 1.6oz/4,000sqft.
While Atrazine does a good job, it does not do a great job, and it is not your only option. Were it my lawn, I would use a half rate of Atrazine + a regular St Augustine rate of speed zone southern.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LBBHE0
The Speedzone will catch more weeds that Atrazine will leave behind. And for a pre-emergent, I would use Barricade ( Prodiamine).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GTQBEK/ref=pd_aw_sbs_lg_1
You can purchase it in WDG form (water dispensable granules) which allows you to dissolve it in water, mix, and spray it, OR you can apply it as granular with a spreader. You can buy it for a very high prices in flowable liquid form as well. Anytime you can spray pre-emergent either with WDG or flow able form, you will get consistently better results than granular.
One application of these three products will have you in the right direction. Mid May I would fertilize with a slow release fertilizer with iron (4.0% or higher iron content. Check the bag for percentages). You're safe to use a higher nitrogen blend like a 24-4-8 or a 34-0-4. The important aspects will be the iron and the slow release. You want to apply this at 3-4lbs/1000sqft.
Let me know if you have anymore questions. By the way repeat the pre-emergent process come September. You'll need to do pre-emergent applications every fall and spring otherwise, see original lawn photos.
Hey! I'm in Denver too. I'll give you my plan which has worked well so far.
Your lawn isn't terrible its just dormant. It won't come out of dormancy for another few weeks. Here is what you can do in the mean time. First check http://frontrangeweather.net/wxsoil.php often. As long as the average soil temp is below 50F you really aren't going to have much growth of weeds or grass.
Until you hit that temp if you want you can water the grass but it won't grow much until probably next month. Most places suggest 1" a week, but in Denver depending on what kind of grass you have you won't need quite that much.
In Mid-late April throw down an application of fertilizer. You can use the step 1 Scotts stuff since it has crabgrass pre-emergent in it. Once you throw down some fertYou'll want to probably overseed in Late april-early May. I like Turf Type Tall Fescue blends and I go to a garden center(not homedepot/lowes) to get them. The Scotts seed is mostly coating by weight so you don't as much grass seed per bag. If you want you can order seeds online and get lots for cheap. https://www.unitedseedsonline.com/main.sc is a good one. Pick a seed that works with your sun/shade levels. Certain seeds need full sun, while others need a mix. You'll have to figure out how much yard space you have and put down the right amount of seed for that square footage. You can use google earth to do that or there are websites where you can measure out your yard from google maps. Put down some seed in mid-late april, but make sure soil temps are above 55F and water water water until your overseeding starts to pop up. Once they pop up you can go back to watering once a week with deep watering or twice a week. Remember long waterings once a week >>> watering a bunch of small times a week.Planting in the spring is not optimal but you're mostly just doing repair work here so even if you don't get full seed germination its fine and a lot of it will be repaired over the spring/summer/fall by itself.
Now that you've made it through spring the rule of thumb is a fertilizer application on every major holiday: Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor day and then if you are going to reseed/overseed in the fall do it in late September for Denver. I am going to use milorganite to fertilize on Memorial Day, 4th of July, and Labor Day. You can't really fuck up milorganite since it's organic and you don't have to worry about burning your yard.
You may also want to send a soil sample to a lab so you know what your soil is lacking otherwise you'll just be guessing on fertilizing. Normally in Denver you'll be lacking in Nitogen, and probably slightly acidic. Soil Savy is a really easy kit. You only need to test like once every other year or so but it isn't required, just helps guide your fertilizer applications.
Do not fret we are still really early in the season here in Denver despite it being warm we are still having cold cold nights and it's not quite growing season.
If you want a way to remind yourself when to do the fertilizer applications and the levels you can sign up for a site like https://www.scotts.com/en-us/my-lawn it can send you reminders.
In that first picture I'd take a chainsaw to some of those low branches. That'll allow for more sunlight to what looks like your front yard, and also will encourage more upward growth for the tree. It'll make the tree nice and slim. This will also give you much more sunlight to the grass in the surrounding area.
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The fact that your house is neighboring a forest is going to be a constant issue in terms of weeds, but creating a little separator should keep that in check. It looks like the area by the fence used to be a big mulch bed and the rocks are there to contain the mulch. You'll want to spread a new layer of mulch there and keep the grass/ weeds from growing in there. Round-up is a great tool.
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Now in terms of the grass/ weeds. The first thing you'll want to find is a nice 2 gallon sprayer and some broad-leaf herbicide. I personally use lesco eliminate-d broadleaf herbicide. I had a big problem this spring and using this herbicide vs pulling weeds out manually was a lifesaver. I used it alongside a surfactant and it was simply magical. Usually 3-4 days after you spray your yard at the proper rate you'll see all the weeds that the herbicide targets to wither and die. I understand that you have dogs and that might not be a great approach for you. If you can keep the dogs indoors and out of your yard for a few days it'll be a lot easier than pulling the weeds by hand. Now get a good mow in and the weeds should be gone. From there it depends what you want to do with your yard/ how much time and money you want to throw at it.
Here's how I would attack it:
Weed Control
In the spring, lay down a pre-emergent product to prevent the crabgrass and any other weed seeds from coming up.
Overseeding
Now that we've eased the weed pressure on your lawn, you are going to want to start thickening it up as you will suddenly have a large amount of exposed dirt.
This fall, I would make sure to overseed with an appropriate seed mix for your climate. Makes sure to rake out any thatch to expose bare soil. In areas where the remaining grass is still fairly thick, you don't need to cover the new seed; if it's fairly exposed, rake it lightly into the dirt. Ideally, exposed grass seed should have ~1/8" of soil covering it.
Keep the seed moist until it has full germinated (several weeks).
Fertilizing
Surpisingly, I am keeping the fertilization step for last, because it's arguably the biggest topic depending on how you want to go, and what your available time involvement and interest is.
In short, your turf will need a certain amount of nitrogen and other nutrients. However, to go into more detail will require more time than I have right now - hopefully someone else will pick up the ball on fertilizers here.
As a touchpoint, my personal fertilizer schedule is to hit it with 20lb of alfalfa pellets / 1000ft^2 four times per year, plus a 1lb / 1000ft^2 application of urea late fall as a winterizer, but your mileage may vary.
Soil Test / Amendments
If you are really serious about a good lawn, I would recommend taking a soil test and submitting it to Logan Labs for analysis. You can find better instructions here. That will let us give you much better help about how to amend your soil towards optimal conditions for turf growth.
I had the same experience with it. It seems like it helped, then it just came back. I have to agree about the watering. I'm currently doing it for a short time twice a week. Everything I've been reading about St. Augustine is against that method. I'm going to try, and sweet to the longer run like everyone says (but I'm pretty sure that's what helped spread it in the first place)..who knows. I also think the city water I have isn't great for the water. Like you, the rain makes my grass way better than any watering I've been doing. I think it's a mix of the city water fluoride or whatever else the filter out (or add) vs. the rain water. I also saw the same thing with mine when I pulled it up (I put some fresh pieces down to get some new runners out there). Haha, yeah the grass is still trying to learn who it is. It's currently in the rebellious phase, and it's winning. I think I'm also going to try this Soil test kit, I'm hoping that one magic ingredient is missing and everything will get better once I figure that out.
As you do more research, you'll be tempted to till your lawn. Don't. Using a power rake and core aeration is a better option.
You can rent a power rake but it was cheap enough on Amazon to buy one for future use, so I went for that.
This is what I bought last year for $100.
Sun Joe AJ801E 12 Amp 12.6"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FEATL2I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
SunJoe is a good brand. I had an issue with the first one I bought and they sent me a warranty replacement without a hassle.
Core aeration machines are too expensive to buy (couple thousand dollars), so renting or hiring someone to do it is the best option. The machines are big and heavy, so make sure you have room in your car before renting it.
When you buy battery powered tools for your lawn, consider the whole system the company sells. You want to find a brand of tools you'll buy everything from, so the tools can share batteries. Sometimes the battery and charger is half the price of the tool. If you already have a battery from a different tool, you can buy a version without the battery and save that money.
Look at GreenWorks line of lawn tools. They have a good range of products. Once you have a charger and battery, you can buy the other tools without that and save. Though, I like to have two batteries in case I run out of juice in the middle of a task.
I'm sorry, but I do not trust Pennington at all when it comes to turf recommendations, especially since they list Kentucky-31 as a proper turf grass.
Unless you have a fescue type that is designed to be cut that short, you really shouldn't be under 2.5". Even if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you'd need to be cutting as soon as the lawn reaches 3" if you are trying to maintain it with a 2" cut.
Clemson recommends 3 - 3.5" as a general rule of thumb depending on the time of year. (warmer climates compared to Penn St.)
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/tall-fescue-maintenance-calendar/
Iowa St. recommends 3".
https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/11-13/tallfescue.htm
University of Maryland recommends 3-4" for Tall Fescue.
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/plants/mowinggrasscycling-lawns
Of course there's also always Pete from GCI turf on the ol' Youtube who has arguably the best looking Fescue lawn I've seen, and he likes 4.5 - 5" for hit cut height.
I used to work in the industry, and I know how to treat brownpatch. The article you linked is correct as I said that retail stores themselves don't really keep decent fungicides stocked.
However here's what you can get online for it:
Group 1
Clearys 3336F Fungicide
https://www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html
Group 3:
Propiconazole
https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html?sub_id=16568
Eagle 20EW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EO23QHLO0CX9
Tebuconazole
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-tebuconazole-36-p-12199.html
Myclobutanil
https://www.domyown.com/myclobutanil-20ew-to-fungicide-p-16654.html
Group 3 and 11:
Armada 50 WDG Fungicide
https://www.domyown.com/armada-50-wdg-fungicide-p-1350.html
Group 11:
Fluoxastrobin
https://www.domyown.com/fame-granular-fungicide-p-15599.html
https://www.domyown.com/disarm-fungicide-p-13524.html
Azoxystrobin
https://www.domyown.com/heritage-fungicide-p-1343.html
Other (group M):
chlorothalonil
https://www.domyown.com/daconil-ultrex-turf-care-fungicide-p-2309.html
For Brown patch prevention when conditions first appear that favor a fungus outbreak (Lots of rain, followed by hot humid temps) A preventative application can be applied, and is good for 28 days.
For curative it's a bit more work. It typically takes up to 4 applications, 2 of one group, and one of another group, and then one of either the same group or back to the first group. All 14 days apart.
Typically my fungicide treatment revolves around the cheaper group 3 and group 1 products, with group 11's thrown in for rotation to prevent resistance from developing. If I'm doing Group 1 for my primary, my secondary application will typically be something like Armada. since it has both Group 3 and 11, if I'm using a Group 3 as the main application I'll use something like Heritage for my group 11.
You have to be really careful about where you get your information, as a lot of magazine articles or brochures are written by people who haven't really done the research. I don't trust Turf Mag or sales media to inform me on turf, the same way I don't just the verge to teach someone how to build a computer.
I'll look into this. I have already invested in 2 separate timers and I'm not too interested in buying more, but this may be the best solution. My only concern is the distance they would have to be going from the spigot... more hoses for my hose collection!
I think something like this may be the best solution? https://www.amazon.com/Melnor-4-Zone-Digital-Water-Timer/dp/B0094KM4VK/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1536070143&sr=8-14&keywords=water+timer
Im in the same battle. This stuff worked wonders for me. weed b gon
I applied it to my yard using a tank sprayer. It was a slow pain in the ass but if you follow the directions perfectly it works miracles. My whole yard was creeping Charlie and I was amazed at how this worked. It’s not quick but after a month my yard is almost completely clear. Good luck man let me know if you have any questions.
Yeah I'm assuming to run more than 1 sprinkler at a time, especially when daisy chained, would probably need some pressure behind it to be most effective.
There are timers with multiple outputs that could turn each sprinkler on independent of eachother, which sounds like it would be useful in a situation where your water pressure is limited.
If I had the water pressure I would daisy chain some sprinklers up, but I imagine the more you attach on a line, the less coverage each one provides. It's quite the pickle.
It may not be the most cost-effective, but if I had a large area to water and not alot of pressure, maybe 4 of those tripod things hooked up to that 4 zone timer (so only 1 was running at a time) might be the best solution.
I think if you have to walk on a seeded lawn though, it's best to do it before they sprout. So I'd try not to be in the business of moving sprinklers multiple times per day if at all possible. I've walked on newly seeded grass (after it sprouted) and I couldn't see any difference afterwards, but I imagine repeated abuse would probably beat it up a bit.
Someone else might come up with a better solution though.
Actually $85 new is as low as its been in over 12 months, and within $5 of all time low price sold by amazon directly. https://camelcamelcamel.com/Greenworks-14-Inch-Corded-Dethatcher-27022/product/B0030BG1HM
Got mine from amazon warehouse few weeks back, for $90 with tax, 'used' but was actually pristine. Works great, I would simply not have been able to clear out the years of thatch buildup without it. You do need a good 14-16 awg extension cord.
But yah, the affiliate spam is getting out of hand here.
I have the Sun Joe, they're nearly identical from watching the Test and Lawn Ginja on you tube. He has a couple of reviews. Good stuff. I love mine, especially for the money with what it can do. The sun joe comes with an interchangeable scarifier attachment in addition to the dethatcher it ships with. The scarifier attachment is awesome for planting seed. Could not be happier for 125 bucks. Apparently it's a hot item since the price is up to 158 - https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-AJ801E-Dethatcher-Collection/dp/B01FEATL2I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=CE3ZR4CQTHZZ&keywords=sunjoe+dethatcher&qid=1562640773&s=gateway&sprefix=sunjoe+det%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-3
Where do you live? It's hard to make recommendations without knowing this information but I can give you my knowledge from my experience. I live in the northwest US and about a year ago I completely re-did my backyard. Here's basically the process I used:
Let me know if you have any questions, I'll do my best to help you out.
wait until fall for best success.
You can use this device. But in my experience, it leaves large divots. I like using chemicals because it doesn't leave divots.
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Deluxe-Stand-up-Weeder-4-claw/dp/B0030MIHAU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1495216150&sr=1-1&keywords=fiskar+weeder
This contains 24d, which is safe after 2-3 hours
https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-704140-Crabgrass-Concentrate/dp/B001OSH5P0/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1495216220&sr=1-1&keywords=bayer+weed+killer
There is only one type of Zoysia that can be seeded in that is Zenith I believe. Every other one is sod/plugs.
I would just plug it if the holes aren't too large or you aren't impatient. I have Empire Zoysia that has been established for about 7 years and it's near indestructible besides our dog who has dug it up here and there. But every year I can repair it easily.
Any of those dug up spots or spots that for some reason weakened, I use a sod plugger. What I do is take it from the healthiest most dense part of the lawn in the growing season and put it in the bare spots. Then I keep it watered like new sod for 2 weeks or so. During the dead of summer is not good though. Mid June is probably the latest.
The holes left from the plugger are undetectable after a week or 2 of growth. I fill the holes with just some compost and soil I pulled with the plugger. With the transplanted area, I use the tool to make the holes, salvage soil/sand from it, mix it with compost and push the plugs in on top. I will also spot add liquid fert (like miracle grow for lawns) just to kick start it's growth to establish much faster. It does create a greener spot but that will dissipate.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MRTVUI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pgcQAbKFT595X - That's the plugger I use.
Good luck!
My understanding is that core aerators work much better than spike aerators. You could get one of these, but I've heard they can clog pretty easily, especially if you have a lot of clay in your soil. For me, it was actually cheaper to have a lawn care company come out ($50) than it would have been to to rent an actual plug aerator.
No, I don’t think so. But this will kill most of the weeds on your turf right now. I would need to see a closer picture of your grass to tell you what type it is.
Edit: honestly this will probably leave a lot of bare/yellow spots throughout the yard so you may want to look into overseeding. Go to seedsuperstore.com ( I honestly recommend this site so much, I look like a paid bot lmao) type in your zip into the tool and it’ll give you a nice blend of very high quality grasses specifically for your area. And if your going to seed/ over seed put down the Bayer Advanced first (Post Emergent), then remove the dead weeds, overseed/ fix bare spots(look up some videos on YouTube, they’ll explain it better than I ever could), and when you put the seed down put this down to help the new seed/grass: Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food - Starter Food for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer, 5,000-sq ft (Starter Lawn Fertilizer Plus Crabgrass, Dandelion & Weed Preventer) (Not Sold in FL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B04KC4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_On3TCb3ZQVBN7
Thanks for the advice! That is very helpful. I'm planning on getting this from amazon, it's cheap enough that it looks like I'll be able to spray the entire lawn with it and have enough left over for the entire summer since it's supposed to be diluted 2 tsp/gal.
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For the Nitrogen would you recommend going with something that is pure nitrogen like this (46-0-0), or some other type of mix like a 10-10-10?
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If you want to grow bermuda in the back, the tree has got to go. Shade = bermuda death. Otherwise, there's a couple of options that are left open to you, and are completely do-able with a little effort and time.
I've always said that if your desired yard is more than 50% crap, you need to renovate. The cost of money that you spend on selective herbicides to try to salvage the desirable grass outweighs the cost of killing off everything, and starting fresh, whether with seed or sod. Whatever you do, if you decide to go this route, don't till up the ground; when it settles in, you'll have a bumpy as hell yard, and you'll be bringing dormant weed seeds back to the surface to compete with your new seed/sod.
It's a good thing put out the pre-emergent, so you won't have to contend with nearly as many summer weeds, just make sure you put down a Fall PreM, so you won't have poa and other nasties next winter/spring.
>I would love that golf style turf and easily maintained. This mowing every other five days has gotta stop.
Hate to break it to you, but golf courses mow every day. I mow my bermuda lawn every other day during the summer, when I'm not using a growth regulator. Bermuda loves to be mowed low and often.
If you want a low-maintenance option, I'd suggest centipede. It requires low inputs (mowing, fert) grows pretty thick, like St. Aug, and is pretty affordable.
The other option you could do is get a ProPlugger, and start taking plugs from your front yard, kill off a section in the back, and transplant the plugs to the rear. Much less expensive, and you'll get the same grass type all over. I've used this method with great success in my back yard, where the dogs run all over, and I'm not ready to renovate that area, but still want some turf to take over where weeds used to be.
Thanks /u/Ed-k! Is there a brand/type/specific something or other that people recommend for Prodiamine? I just searched for it on Amazon and this came up: https://www.amazon.com/Prodiamine-Generic-Barricade-5lbs-ali8056/dp/B004GTQBEK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=prodiamine&qid=1549916972&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Do I just order this and spray the whole yard with it? Is there somewhere/something better to get? Appreciate the insight.
nope, it's a special tool, very similar to a slit-seeder but without the seeding capability. Think of it basically tilling up your soil without ripping out your turf. It cuts into the soil just enough to allow seeds to fall past the turf\thatch and onto the soil, which is essential to effective germination.
You can either rent one or buy one. I opted to get one 2-years ago and I feel like my purchase has been worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-AJ801E-Dethatcher-Collection/dp/B01FEATL2I
The collection bag is completely useless.
I actually just saw that the Lawn Care Ginja did a review on this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnOrrtLEX7w
TLDR of the video: it doesn't compare to the commercial version, but for ~$130 compared to ~$3000 it's totally worth it, he came away impressed.
Dish soap and baby shampoo work. I've never used either, but I think you need them to be as plain as possible. Quick google search should tell you what to look for/avoid. I'm a fan of this surfactant. I'd also like to second his thought on Triclopyr. I used Ortho CCO and saw amazing results after 2 applications.
Liquid Aeration on Amazon
Is this just as good as Air8? I like I can get it on Amazon. Also, would you recommend I put down a granular pre-emergent right now? I need to start getting a hold on the thousands of weeds as well. Is this something I should just go get from Home Depot or Tractor Supply?
Appreciate the quick response.
Here's what I'm ordering from Amazon - 41%
Is that strong enough?
Thanks again.
So he loves cutting the grass or prides himself on a beautiful lawn?
If the latter, try this: Toro lawn striper
Or you could get him a broadcast spreader so he can lay down fertilizer/overseed/etc.
If he just likes cutting the grass, perhaps bluetooth headphones for some tunes while mowing?
Great, I just did a round of Milorganite, and used this stuff on my weed spots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072289CA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
Thanks again for the help.
Get a soil test done asap. I like this one on amazon, it's pretty simple... Soil Test they also give you a recommended fertilizer and it will also tell you your soil pH/Ca levels for applying lime and gypsum....
The first weed is a type of thistle, the second weed pic looks like either speedwell or chickweed (both can be eliminated with a herbicide with Trifloxysulfuron or Chlorsulfuron)
not familiar one with them but yeah there is one sort of close to me. I can't get speedzone, but something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072289CA/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 looks much stronger than the product I bought.
Agreed. The price fluctuates from $80-110. Works great and you'll save big in the long run.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030BG1HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503582352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=greenworks+dethatcher&dpPl=1&dpID=41qswmv3RAL&ref=plSrch
I have a hand held spike aerator and I can't really say that it helped or did much of anything this season. I've since bought a core aerator with a good grip. I usually have a core aeration service do this but I would also like to have something onsite to do this whenever necessary. It works really well for my soil actually.
https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6/
Lots of good questions here!
> I put down a scotts crabgrass preventer and lawn food a few weeks ago and am aware I should fertilize again in the summer I think?
Yes but it depends on temperature. Synthetic fertilizer can stress the lawn when it is very hot. You can apply an organic slow release like milorganite or ringer which is lower in nutrients and is less likely or won't burn your lawn in high heat.
> I've though about aerating or dethatching but don't want to disturb the preemergent layer and am not sure if I need it. How do you tell if should dethatch or aerate?
Unless you can run your hand through the lawn and scrape up a fist full of thatch, you don't need to dethatch right now. You can dethatch and aerate in the fall as part of your winter prep.
> I've sprayed almost 2 gallons of roundup weed and grass killer on it over the last few days and there is still a lot of green, should I just give a week or so to see what all dies (I thought it would be faster acting)?
About 1 gallon per 300 square feet is sufficient so you've potentially more than doubled what you needed to put down (assuming 40% glyophosate strength). Hold off on applying anything else. Water this area really well. Roundup (glyphosate) is absorbed through the green leaves so it will be slow to act if the target plant is not actively growing. Give it three weeks before you reassess. It takes time.
> From reading online I'm thinking I should put down a broadleaf preemergent on the old mulch soon and also apply some kind of fertilizer to all the shrubs and bushes before the mulch gets put down.
You can use Preen either on top of the new mulch or on top of the old mulch before new stuff goes down. It's activated after the first rain or watering I believe so it will make it's way into the soil. It works by stopping root development in new plants so it won't effect established plants. Its safer than spraying a broad weed killer or pre-em since that may damage some shrubs.
> What kind of fertilizer should I use and how much?
You can use all-purpose miracle grow liquid which is easy to mix or use in the hose spray bottle. Another option might be Osmocote which is a slower-release all purpose fert in pellet form.
> I have some bags of composted steer manure I was thinking of just putting a mound around each plant underneath the weed barrier fabric.
That can work too.
> The old mulch I should say isn't very thick so I am just planning on leaving it.
No problem.
> Can I do all this without collecting, sending out, and paying for soil samples for each of these areas?
Yes. You can also get the diy soil test kit probably not as accurate as a lab but will give you an approximation.
*Edit - also yes, it will feel overwhelming and you won't get all of it done in the first year. Maintain what you have an improve in small chunks. It will come together.
Thank you so much for you help. I am sending out a check for the local extension office for their soil report.
All of this is new to me. I usually just go to Lowes and by something that says crabgrass for a pre-emergent. Are these OK?
Dicamba 2,4 d
Tenacity
[Surfactant] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XDHRCE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1AJDJ0H6GF3H&psc=1)
Backpack sprayer
pre-emergent
I buy both the Southern Ag 2-4-d and surfactant. As you can see it is pretty cost effective as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3041595011
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3041595011
Yeah for sure. Buy something like this. You'll get an idea if your lawn is depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potash. You'll also get a measurement of the soil's pH level.
I'd fix the soil first. Thick, lush grass depends on healthy soil.
/u/skippingstone recommended Scotts Turf Builder Starter Food for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer - 2-in-1 Formula - Fertilizes New Grass and Prevents Weeds like Crabgrass and Dandelions
I had to special order it from my local Ace Hardware, but it came in two days. Aerated, overseeded, and put down the fertilizer. My backyard was nothing but crabgrass and sedge. Here's a link to my situation. And now the grass seed is sprouting and the weeds are looking pretty sick.
Aeration has it uses like on a golf courses or you drive heavy equipment across your yard. Normal use yards don't get compacted enough to warrant the use. I use a soil conditioner and it really helps.
Pre emergent in the spring can't use it now cause it would block your grass seed from growing. You can use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B005DUTNF0/ref=mw_dp_cr
Pre and post seed but read the directions 3 times to make sure you apply it correctly. It will cause your grass to whiten but it will come back. It's a little pricey but it will knock out a lot of weeds.
In the spring use something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Dimension-2EW-Dithiopyr-Pre-Emergent-Herbicide/dp/B0056650Z8
Or anything with dimension in it.
The Amazon price is what I'm referring to. For example, this 1 gallon glyphosate product (41%)
is only $20. If we compare that to this RoundUp Pro Concentrate 2.5 gallon 50.2% glyphosate product, the RoundUp is still much more expensive per gram of glyphosate. Is the RoundUp better for other reasons, or is the cheaper stuff just as good, assuming you mix the end-product to the same concentration?
As a new homeowner, I too took an interest in my lawn this year. I find dethatching (I did it by raking) helps A LOT in getting rid of debris and allow the water to penetrate the soil. With the debris gone my grass filled up all the empty/bald spots with ease. I didn't need to overseed. Instead of renting an aerator, I hired a person who came and aerated my lawn, the cost came up to only $25 more than a rental.
I purchased a special rake for about $25 that is too heavy to be use http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ames-19-Tine-Adjustable-Thatch-Rake-1915100/202057292
I used this rake instead and found it much easier. http://www.sears.com/ames-co-24inch-clog-free-poly-rake/p-SPM3030238302?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
Also, I did a round of Bonus-S which fertilize and killed some weeds. (Manually pulling up the big weeds gave me the best results)
But a month ago, I purchased a dethacther machine but has yet to use it http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030BG1HM/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1410976076&sr=1&keywords=dethatcher
Take a look at liquid aerator. It's basically a surfactant that allows water to penetrate the soil easier. Ryan Knorr did a good video on and and you can buy it for $30 bucks on Amazon.
Ryan Knorr- Does liquid aerator really work?
Amazon- Liquid Aerator
Seems to be an issue with newer builds (built post 1990 or so) when developers started scraping off the black dirt from a property they intended to build many houses on, piling it up, and reselling what they didn't use for "rough/final" grading. Might not be your situation, but that's what I'm used to around here.
I've had success with this:
It seems to take ~ 3 years for the lawn to really turn around. Once the lawn looks healthy, you don't have to overseed or slit seed except in areas damaged from winter, dogs, etc., so feel free to move to using pre and post emergents (crabgrass preventer and weed and feed as they're commonly called).
Gypsum and aeration should be a yearly thing.
Buying 1 bag of 50lbs of seed should last you a few years depending on lot size, do not buy the seed they sell in big box stores, get it from a wholesale distributor that typically sells to professionals. You lose ~ 5%-15% germination per year it sits (store the bag in a plastic container so rodents don't get to it), so figure after 3 years it's toast.
Hopefully this helps, best wishes with a future healthy lawn!
learned it from the lawn care nut. He has great videos on the subject
you can rig something up for your mower but I just went and bought a kit
soil test, amend as needed. clay is usually acidic, require lime added but there's only so much you should add each time so it might take a while to get it just right.
add compost. lots and lots of compost. you can till then add compost and till again, if you're buying enough. otherwise you can just dump on top like 2 inches, which is still going to be a truck load.
for drainage, look into dry wells, including building a trench dry well--essentially a trench with stone.
then once you establish a lawn, aerate on a regular basis and never let it dry out completely. continue to soil test and amend as needed yearly.
edit: also, once you do your soil test, you can either amend the soil to grow what you want OR just plant what grows in the soil you have. Daylilies generally grow well in clay.
Rapitest 716756 1601 Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_qDjzCbR5W60SH
Get this on Amazon. The HD link is OOS. Make sure you saturate your lawn to easily get the cores out. 1 to 1.5 hrs of watering would be good.
https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Dethatching-Aeration-ID-6C/dp/B00EOMCJD6
I used this to kill
I didn't keep exact track of everything but some of the supplies I ordered on Amazon and my friend sold me the seed for $40 so I'm guessing that was a deal. I have the bag still so I need to look it up and find what it would have cost.
I use one that I buy off Amazon and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=lp_3480689011_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1538146559&sr=1-2
You local university may also have a lab where you can send a sample for testing. They usually do not cost much https://ag.umass.edu/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory/fact-sheets/sampling-instructions-for-routine-soil-analysis
>creeping
You nailed it! It’s creeping charlie. It’s notoriously aggressive and resilient, but I had a lot of success with this last summer.
Would it be better to use something like this
Liquid Aerating Soil Loosener- Aerator Soil Conditioner- No Mechanical or Core Aeration- Simple Lawn Solutions- Any Grass Type, All Season- Great for Compact Soils, Standing Water, Poor Drainage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VWCRBD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RtpmDb1XPE785
Before I do humic and kelp mix?
Awesome! Make sure you read the label - it will tell you exactly how much to mix with water for spot spraying. You also might want to add a surfactant to break down the surface tension. In a pinch, a little dish soap will do, just make sure it's not antibacterial.
Here's the one I use:
Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides Non-Ionic, 16oz, 1 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dPTwCbGC8XNHH
Once you have the herbicide, surfactant, and pump sprayers - they should last you a few years and save you money over buying bottles of diluted weed killer.
Thanks for the tips. which one would you recommend [Image] (https://www.domyown.com/image-kills-nutsedge-concentrate-p-9448.html), [Bayer] (https://www.domyown.com/bayer-advanced-southern-lawn-concentrate-weed-killer-p-8907.html) or [Anime 2-4D] (https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Selective-Broadleaf-Control/dp/B0072289CA)? Also, should I spray now or wait until my grass starts to green up?
This: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537328647&sr=8-3&keywords=2-4d+weed+killer
​
With a little of this mixed in: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537328680&sr=8-3&keywords=surfactant
(Crucial in the effectiveness, don't skip!)
​
Best if sprayed by something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FA09S2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
With an adjustable tip for good spot coverage.
Thanks. I was just going to buy a soil test on Amazon. Something like this. Not good enough?
What 2,4-d product do you recommend? Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Selective-Broadleaf-Control/dp/B0072289CA
Do I spray the entire lawn or on the individual weeds?
I just don't understand why people try to take care of onions with chems when the solution is so
simple. I guess most people haven't heard about this.
You need to be using a non-ionic surfactant with the Tenacity if you want it to work best as a post-emergent.
This is the exact stuff I used, however I paid about $16 USD for a US gallon at Menards, one of our regional big box home improvement stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-1-Gallon/dp/B00ARKS3XO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473793206&sr=8-1&keywords=glyphosate
I tried to look up glyphosate using amazon.ca - not having the best of luck. Is Roundup legal up there?
You may be right - and seems logical. However, the saplings and vines I used it on haven't shown green growth since applying this spring.
I bought this electric dethatcher and it works great!
Well worth the money for the time it saves and back pain it prevents.
These are great!
​
https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B01GIMOG8A
Proper mixture rate for Tenacity (generic...Meso 4 SC)
I am trying to figure out the best way to determine how much Tenacity to add to my tank sprayer for my yard. Between mixture ratio of tenacity per acre, my specific size yard, and my specific sprayer, I am not sure the ratio to use and how heavy to spray...i.e. how much should my sprayer cover?
The sprayer I am using is the Field King Professional...which holds 4 gallons, and sprays .25gpm.
Oh cool. Like this:? https://www.amazon.com/ProPlugger-Garden-Planter-Weeder-Plugger/dp/B003MRTVUI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=grass+pro+plugger&qid=1550861650&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO
Used this the last couple of years for a 12k lawn and it’s been great.
Prodiamine is great. Use it.
Here is a pump one for < 75$ https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549731952&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=backpack+sprayer
If your yard is very large (>10-15k sqft) probably get a battery powered one instead.
Thanks! I also found this on Amazon! Let me know your thoughts:
Liquid Aerating Soil Loosener- Aerator Soil Conditioner- No Mechanical or Core Aeration- Simple Lawn Solutions- Any Grass Type, All Season- Great for Compact Soils, Standing Water, Poor Drainage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VWCRBD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-uCZCbSSV9DPC
Definitely a backpack sprayer - either of these will do the job just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FA09S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H9cVAbNJNPX7N
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO?ref_=Oct_TopRatedC_9001143011_2&pf_rd_p=7dca8712-f511-5d28-a84c-468d98cd8d4f&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=9001143011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ARX2ZPNG6S61PNY13XNH&pf_rd_r=ARX2ZPNG6S61PNY13XNH&pf_rd_p=7dca8712-f511-5d28-a84c-468d98cd8d4f
Dude; spend $90 more and enjoy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FEATL2I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Liquid Harvest Lazer Blue Concentrated Spray Pattern Indicator - 1 Quart (32 Ounces) - Perfect Weed Spray Dye, Herbicide Dye, Fertilizer Marking Dye, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049I2FPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ayjYmeNvLSevr
Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides Non-Ionic, 16oz, 1 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_b8sHqQkCZXkEN
So I’m brand new to this stuff, but would this be considered fertilizer or grass seed?
Scotts Turf Builder Starter Food for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer - 2-in-1 Formula - Fertilizes New Grass and Prevents Weeds like Crabgrass and Dandelions - Covers 5,000 sq. ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B04KC4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_3Z-GDb07W5RAF
Get one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030BG1HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's like running a vacuum cleaner over your lawn (easier than a mower because it's so light).
>Will something like this work?
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1525790636&sr=1-4&keywords=soil+test+kit#customerReviews
>
>Or should I get the real soil savvy test where I send it in?
You could rent one but that would likely be overkill for 900 sq ft. You could buy a manual one like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2G09ybVGG02FW
This will take care of both
https://www.amazon.com/PBI-Gordon-Speed-Killer-20-Ounce/dp/B001PCRKDC
If you want an easy kit this is a decent one https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B01GIMOG8A
For manual stomp aerator, are you talking about something like this? I was told that things like this are essentially worthless because they don't pull any plugs.
What about this for a dethatcher?
On sale right now for $79.16 on Amazon. Price will jump up to $100+ in August or September.
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You are welcome.
I've had good results with https://www.amazon.com/Tenacity-Turf-Herbicide-8-ounces/dp/B005DUTNF0
Looks like fungus. Try using this product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X6FIYS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AX6XB8XK2JAWT&amp;psc=1
Or thishttps://www.amazon.com/Eagle-20-EW-Fungicide-Pint/dp/B004S6ZZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1498485935&sr=1-1&keywords=eagle+fungicide
Yep, this thing. In general, it wasn't terrible, but some of the compacted solid required a bit of force and my hip was jacked up for a few days afterwards.
Here's the idiots guide to fertilizer:
N-P-K is what fertilizer bags have and it will be three numbers such as 10-5-10. These state the amounts of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Every yard uses/needs 1lb/1000 sq ft of N 3-4 times a year, so that value is pretty much a given. The P and K portions really needed tested and you can either buy a kit and research what to use if values are low or get something like https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B01GIMOG8A/ and it will dumb it down for you and state you should buy XX lbs of X-X-X fertlizer and it does all the work for you.
So to do it right, you need a soil test. You can throw down what you like today, but if you are going to keep fertilizing, you should get a soil test.
You might consider this to move the grass in the ankle breaking holes. Put a plug in the middle or a few in it. It will help the grass fill in faster.
Seems like this is posted every couple of days...
Here is a direct link (without the affiliate ID from the OP) to purchase:
https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-14-Inch-Corded-Dethatcher-27022/dp/B0030BG1HM/
I have about the same size lawn also with trees and other obstructions. I was considering putting together a temp watering system when I go to overseed in the Spring. Used the Orbit sprinkler design tool online to get an idea of placement and what it would be like. I was going to use zones with this 4 zone timer, alternating one after the other so water pressure stays up and more of the lawn gets watered without moving sprinklers around much.
I have a manual aerator where I step down with my foot to martial he holes.
Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EOMCJD6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414330297&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
> Should I just buy a core aerator and do it manually?
I would. (Assuming you are talking about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6)
Yeah you can rent an aerator, but looking at your yard you might be able to get by with a manual one like this.
I wouldn't mow now. I know we're seeing some crazy weather now, but it won't do you any good until your lawn comes out of dormancy and that's still a bit away.
I was recommended Barricade or Dimension so I want to prepare for the fall to get my lawn ready for the spring but both had this disclaimer on some listings. I'll try to see if I can find one that does not have this warning. Thanks
If you want to go nuclear, there is a relatively new product called Tenacity that will selectively kill bentgrass. I haven't tried it but reviews are good.
Tenacity Turf Herbicide - 8 ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DUTNF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X-FkybHRD62MC
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537489926&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=surfactant+for+herbicide
It will make the droplets smaller and stay on the leaves. Creeping Charlie has a waxy skin which makes it tough for liquids to stick. This helps.
This is what I have used - https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
Fellow Michigander here. You have plenty of time to get your yard off to a good start. I brought in soil but it is not always needed. Check and see where you are after the test.
I'd suggest buying one with a couple of neighbors - it's what I did. I heard the blades are worthless. Dethatching regularly in the fall is good for your yard. I also aerate and it does nothing for the thatch. We bought this one. It works great. It's corded so that's a bit of a pain.
This for a smaller yard. Spikes compact the soil more by simply pressing it to the sides and down, a core aerator pulls a plug out on top on the grass.
I paid about $120 for the Greenworks model on Amazon, link below.
After I bought mine, I saw a similar model from SunJoe with a scarifier for a similar price. I would consider that also if it's still available.
https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-14-Inch-Corded-Dethatcher-27022/dp/B0030BG1HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sunjoe+dethatcher&amp;qid=1571326740&amp;sprefix=sunjo&amp;sr=8-3
Logan Labs provides the most comprehensive test but they don't provide recommendations. Alot of people on here use Soil Savvy and they do provide recommendations.
No you want it professionally done.
If your local AG extension office doesn't do it, you can buy a test kit from the US and just mail it here...just make sure you choose one that provides online results.
Soil Savvy - Soil Test Kit | Understand What Your Lawn or Garden Soil Needs, Not Sure What Fertilizer to Apply | Analysis Provides Complete Nutrient Analysis & Fertilizer Recommendation On Report https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIMOG8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hMWpDbGY422DA
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xv3yDbN3J1V2W
it wasn't an actual test by a lab i tried using one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
> see http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
As an alternative to this test, check your local coop extension. They'll likely do a test for a similar amount, but it will be much more accurate. They'll also make recommendations on how to rectify any deficiencies.
you've gotta spray
https://www.amazon.com/PBI-Gordon-652400-Killer-20-Ounce/dp/B001PCRKDC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536500654&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=gordon+speed+zone&amp;dpID=411oKeUUNsL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Time for an upgrade GreenWorks 27022 10 Amp 14" Corded Dethatcher/Scarifier
I put down some pre emergent earlier this year and so far no poa annua.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GTQBEK/ref=oh_aui_bia_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
but I'm not overseeding either.
You can try this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've used this stuff. The 14oz bottle goes a long way.
Amazon link but probably available elsewhere
This or anything similar will work. https://www.amazon.com/Toro-20601-Lawn-Striping-System/dp/B004ZKXYUO
It's a sand-filled roller, basically. Check it out.
This is the one I have https://smile.amazon.com/Toro-20601-Lawn-Striping-System/dp/B004ZKXYUO/
It's called Tenacity.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Syngenta-Tenacity-Turf-Herbicide-ounces/dp/B005DUTNF0
Is it tenacity herbicide?
Generic Round-Up
https://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-1-Gallon/dp/B00ARKS3XO
2,4-D
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA
Other 2,4-D product
https://m.lowes.com/pd/BAYER-ADVANCED-Season-Long-Weed-29-fl-oz-Weed-Killer/50243349?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-GrassAndWeedChemicals-_-50243349:BAYER_ADVANCED&amp;CAWELAID=&amp;kpid=50243349&amp;CAGPSPN=pla&amp;store_code=615&amp;k_clickID=6b79e575-7ca3-42b2-a1f2-c6f50eced25f&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2rjcBRBuEiwAheKeL-N663qac8KLFbGjysFUpGiz3dxpJvuJWqraBIwdr-xDg3lMghm4GhoC_14QAvD_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539472038&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=broadleaf+weed+killer
The product:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072289CA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My sprayer:
https://smile.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-Multi-Purpose-Fertilizers-Household/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000E28UQU&pd_rd_r=6PXKQEBEW1MHEQGK9RK0&pd_rd_w=OUS2M&pd_rd_wg=jNutE&psc=1&refRID=6PXKQEBEW1MHEQGK9RK0
https://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-1-Gallon/dp/B00ARKS3XO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524664603&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=glyphosate&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51OxXnmvDdL&amp;ref=plSrch
Maybe in the spring try Scotts for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B04KC4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MyIQDbFMFVS51
Scotts has a weed and feed for new seed. check it out here
I was planning on aerating and slice-seeding but then when I looked into it basically everyone said you can skip aerating if you slice seed. This is the product:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B04KC4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You may find a used one on Craigslist or similar for around $1000. These seem to only really be made for the commercial market. You can buy a manual one, though.
https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491416518&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=manual+core+aerator
Yup just bout one!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FEATL2I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1