Top products from r/led
We found 37 product mentions on r/led. We ranked the 224 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. ALITOVE WS2812B Individually Addressable LED Strip Light 5050 RGB 16.4ft 300 LED Pixel Flexible Lamp Tube Waterproof IP67 Black PCB DC 5V
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 3
256 brightness display and 24-bit color display. Each pixel can have its own color and brightness. You can control them individually and set them to any color or animation you want.It can be programmed with Arduino, FastLED library, Raspberry Pi, Fadecandy, T1000S etc. It can also be controlled by S...
2. LightingWill 5-Pack 3.3ft/1M Silver 16x16mm V-Shape Curved Cover Internal Width 12mm Corner Mounting LED Aluminum Channel with End Caps and Mounting Clips Aluminum Profile-V02S5
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 3
V-shape anodized aluminum channel,better heat dissipation, corner flush mount, for both recessed and surface mount LED lighting projectsFit for PCB width <12mm LED Strips,such as SMD3528, SMD5050 & SMD5630 single row LED strips.Oyster white cover: provide a well diffused light that is comparable to ...
3. Philips 452978 60-Watt Equivalent SlimStyle A19 LED Light Bulb Soft White, Dimmable
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
This Philips 60 Watt equivalent consumes 10.5 watts of energy, saving you up to $136.13 in energy costsNew sleek, flat design is ideal for use in wall sconces, table and floor lamps, open pendant or ceiling fixturesExtra long lifetime of 22.8 years - reduces the hassle of frequent replacementSafe fo...
4. BTF-LIGHTING AC100-240V to DC5V20A Max100W Suit DC5V1A~DC5V20A Device Transformer Power Adapter Converter with 5.5x2.1mm DC Output Jack for WS2812B WS2811 WS2813 SK6812 etc LED Strip/String/LED Matrix
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Input: 100V-240V 50/60Hz; Output: 5V DC up to 30 Amps Max; Works with device that draws less than 30A, such as DC5V1A~30ADC plug connector external diameter is 5.5mm, internal diameter is 2.1~2.5mm. Comes with a female DC barrel connector. You can easily screw wires on it without soldering.Safety fe...
5. CyberPower CP350SLG Standby UPS System, 350VA/255W, 6 Outlets, Compact
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
350VA/255W Standby Battery Backup Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) System6 NEMA 5-15R outlets: (3) battery backup & surge protected outlets, three surge protected outlets safeguard desktop computers, workstations, networking devices and home entertainment equipmentLED indicators: LED status lights...
6. ALITOVE Wireless Bluetooth Magic Dream Color LED Light Controller iOS Android DC5V~24V Great for WS2811 WS2812B WS2801 SK6812 Individually Addressable Programmable LED Strip Pixel Module Panel Lamp
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Easy to use. iOS and Android app control via Bluetooth 4.0 or later version. Long control distance, convenient to use. Support IOS 8.0 and Android 4.4 or later. Your smart Phone should support Bluetooth 4.0 or later version.Wide compatibility. Support almost all the one-wire or two-wire LED driver I...
7. Presto 07047 Cool Touch Electric Griddle
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Premium nonstick surface for stick-free cooking and no-hassle cleaningFully immersible and dishwasher safe with the heat control detached - low profile designStores easily in a kitchen cabinet.Control Master heat control maintains the proper cooking temperature automatically. 1300 watts.Slide-out dr...
8. SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Flexible LED Strip Light Lamp Kit + 44Key IR Remote Controller(Power supply is not included)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
300LED Diodes per Reel, Double side adhesive on back for pasting12V Super Bright SMD 5050 than 3528 Single ChipLength: 5M or 16ft. Thickness: 0.1inch. Width: 0.4inch. IP65 WaterproofRGB Color, 12V DC Input Voltage, Cuttable Every 3 LEDsEasy and Flexible installation. Ideal for home and business ligh...
9. SUPERNIGHT RGB LED Light Strip Remote Controller
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
16 colors, 5 light pattern: Static/Flash/Strobe/Fade-change/RGB Smooth-change.16-classes Static Mode Dim Control:16-Speeds Control in Flash / Strobe / Fade-change / RGB Smooth-change.Input Voltage: 12V (Power supply is not included. You can easily connect to the standard notebook computer power supp...
10. uxcell 100 Pcs 6x6x4.5mm Panel PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Product Name : Tact Switch;Quantity : 100+/-2% Pcs;Contact Type : Momentary ContactDimension : 6 x 6 x 4.5mm / 0.24" x 0.24" x 0.18" (L*W*H);Button Dia. : 3.5mmPin Pitch : 5 x 6mm / 0.2" x 0.24"(L*W);Pin Length : 5mm / 0.2"Material : Plastic, Metal, Electric Parts;Color : Black, Silver ToneNet Weigh...
11. 6 Pcs Black Plastic Waterproof Connectors PG7 Cable Glands
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Product Name : Cable Gland;Model : PG7;Degree of Protection : IP67 (Water Proof)Cable Range : 3-6.5mm / 0.11"- 0.25";Thread O.D. : 12.5mm / 0.49"Thread Length : 9mm / 0.35";Total Size : 17 x 33mm / 0.7" x 1.3" (Max.D*H)Material : Plastic;Color : BlackWeight : 25g;Package Content : 6 x PG7 Cable Glan...
12. 12V 26W Dimmable CV DC LED Driver Transformer ETL (UL) Approved
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Input range from 100~120V AC, 50-60Hz, Pf> 0.95Magnetic Dimmable DC Output: 12V, 2200mA (26.4W), Class 2 Power SupplyDimmable, Suitable for Leading Edge or Trailing Edge TRIAC dimmers (see datasheet for list)Protection: Short-Circuit / Over Current / Over Voltage and Auto-recovery Mode60w see B0741N...
13. HitLights LED Light Strip Connector, 8mm Single Color 3528-6 Inch Any Angle Strip to Strip, 4 Pack
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Reliable and easy to use cable jumper connection for bending your strips around a corner extending them across a gap or connecting them to a power supply or dimmer. Bendable to 90 Degree or any shapeSolderless connection can be used by anyone. No tools soldering or electrical experience required. Co...
14. MEAN WELL RS-75-12 AC to DC Power Supply, Single Output, 12V, 6 Amp, 72W, 1.5" - 323599
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 1
Size (L X W X H) (Inches): 5.1 X 3.9 X 1.5Ripple And Noise (Mv P-P): 120Load Regulation: 0.5%
15. ExpertPower 12V 7 Amp EXP1270 Rechargeable Lead Acid Battery
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
GENUINE EXPERTPOWER BATTERY - The Most Trusted And Highest Reviewed Sealed Lead Acid Batteries On AmazonBATTERY TYPE - 12 Volt 7 Amp 20 Hour Sealed Lead Acid Battery With F1 Style Terminals.RUGGED CONSTRUCTION - The High Impact Resistant Battery Case Is Made Up Of A Non-Conductive ABS Plastic. This ...
16. Weird Tails LED Strip Lights 16.4ft - (New Version) Music Sync Color Changing Lights with +50% Brightness 5050 RGB LEDs and Strong Adhesive Tape, APP Control, Dimmable, for Party, Home Decoration
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
STICK FIRMLY &FREE CONNECTOR: The strong 3M adhesive is a good way to stop the LED strip lights from falling, firmly stick strip lights on wall or TV with our free extra 24'' 3M adhesive. You can cut every 3 LEDs along with the cutting marks and connect them with connectors.+50% BRIGHTNESS 5050 RGB ...
17. LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet (5 Meter) Flexible LED Light Strip with 300xSMD3528 and Adhesive Back, 12 Volt, Warm White 3100K, 2026WW-31K
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Efficient LED strip with 300xSMD3528 LEDsCuttable every 3 LEDs, approx. every 2", at designated cut marksCut sections may be linked via optional quick conectors or directly soldering wiresDimmable with optional compatible dimmable transformer and wall dimmer switch or PWM dimmersEco-friendly - uses ...
18. Leviton 101-WP 15 Amp, 125 Volt, NEMA 1-15P, 2P, 2W, Plug, Straight Blade, Residential Grade, Polarized, Non-Grounding, White
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Plug, Straight Blade15 Amp, 125 Volt
19. EXP1250 12V 5Ah Home Alarm Battery with F1 Terminals // Chamberlain / LiftMaster / Craftsman 4228 Replacement Battery for Battery Backup Equipped Garage Door Openers
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Genuine ExpertPower Battery - The Most Trusted And Highest Reviewed Sealed Lead Acid Batteries On AmazonBattery Type - 12 Volt 5 Amp/20 Hour Sealed Lead Acid Battery With F1 Terminals.Compatibility - Perfect Fit For A Wide Variety Of Applications Including Home Alarms, Electric Scooters, Ion Block R...
20. GE, Black, Replacement Lamp Cord, 8 Ft Long, Polarized 2 Prong Plug, DIY, 54435
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 1
Repair or Replace – A worn out or broken cord on a favorite lamp can be fixed with the GE Replacement Lamp CordDo-It-Yourself – Complete a DIY lamp project with the black cord that you can use to light up your lampLong Power Cord – This lamp cord is black and 8 feet long to reach any outlet in...
Alright, I’ll do my best to explain what I did. First off, material list:
4 x WS2811 5m 30LEDS/m addressable LED strip 12V in IP67 waterproof tube
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01CNL6EG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1 x 12V 30A DC power supply
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1 x Magic LED Bluetooth controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LW1J10W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1 x Sound activated controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0792T73VB/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
10m (cut in half to get 20m) of Gorilla Mounting Tape Clear (link is for black, but I bought clear)
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gorilla-glue-mounting-tape-black-0671081p.html#srp
14 gauge wire
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/southwire-30-metre-in-wall-speaker-wire-yellow-14-2-0529814p.html#srp
18 gauge wire (brown thermostat wire)
Can’t find a link, but I had it in my garage from another project
There is a strip that holds the soffit in place on the far side from the house that was a perfect channel for the LED strip. You can buy white aluminium channels for LED strips with nice frost glazing that diffuses the light. I would have bought them, but soffit and house trim are all brown and I could not find it in brown. I cleaned the surface of the house, then suck the tape to the strip and ran a knife down the side to cut it in half. I then attached it all to the house. 20m fit perfectly around the lower level trim on my house.
I have built-in shelves all around the inside of my garage. So I put the power supply on an upper shelf near the centre of the strips. I picked 12V strips over 5V strips to minimize voltage drops. There are numerous online voltage drop calculators, I used this one:
https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html
My electrical engineering friends tell me I need to size the wire for no more than a 3% voltage drop. That might be a bit overkill for low-voltage LED lights, but that’s what is in the CEC for building wiring. I ended up using 14-gauge wire and ran power to each strip. It worked out to be a bit more than a 3% loss. I used the brown thermostat wire to tee off the main line indoors and ran it through the wall to power the strips. Each connection was done using crimp-style splice connectors that I had left-over from wiring a stereo in my boat.
On the far end I mounted the Magic LED Bluetooth controller (inside) and ran an extra run of the thermostat wire for the data signal. The controller worked great once I put in the right settings. I also set the wiring up so I can connect the sound activated controller outside. On Halloween I plan on setting up some singing pumpkins and have the lights dance to the music.
I hope this helps and good luck with your project. A key thing to keep in mind is you need to run power to each strip, otherwise, you will have too much line-loss, generate lots of heat, and the colours will be different on the far end. It can, and should, come from the same power supply, but just run additional power lines out to each strip.
yeah, one of those strips are 24v strips, i'm surprised they lit up at all. 12v1A isn't enough current to do much.
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this page says that you're looking at 72W for the full 5m strip, http://www.ledlightsworld.com/page.html?id=38
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so that's a 12v, 6A power supply. I recommend trying to cut a small piece off one strip, and see if that works with your controllers
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAO4CUY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 these ones are kinda crap to be honest. they don't have red green and blue in each led, only a red led, then a blue, then a green. in aggregate with really amazing diffusion you'll be able to make purples and oranges, but it won't look near as good as the other two strips you listed which are actually rgb per chip.
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so step one: cut off 5 leds (or wherever the cut line is on the strip) and see if that works with your power supply and controller. if it does then get a better power supply (hint: it won't look like a tiny little wall wart. at a minimum you'll need something that looks like this, however if you want some of the best you can get, mean well has you covered: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-RS-75-12-Supply-Single/dp/B005T8XCLW/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1550809827&sr=8-18&keywords=12v+6a+dc+power+supply
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let me know if you have any questions!
Best of luck. If you want to get adventurous you can get an electric griddle like this and set it to around 250 and reflow the whole board and just pluck the LED off with a pair of tweezers. I will admit that is pretty hard to get the new LED soldered on well at that point though.
It takes a lot of drinking but they fit into wine/liquor bottles with ip65 cable glands something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Waterproof-Connectors-Glands/dp/B00841YHHY/ref=asc_df_B00841YHHY/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=228763672776&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=3089221781606621095&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9002019&amp;hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-392546892203&amp;psc=1
Just drill a hole in the cork/cap to accomodate the gland and screw it on. Makes a cool fixture. Or string the together for some great outdoor or bar lighting.
Yeah, from the looks of it, your LED strip is a "dumb" RGB, in that each color channel, ie Red, Green, and Blue, each gets its own voltage line, along with a fourth ground wire. This means that the WHOLE strip will always be the same color based on whatever voltage is coming from your controller.
In my experience, all of the music reactive controllers are built to control addressable LED strips, most commonly of the WS2812B variety.
In order to connect your current controller to a usable strip, you'll need to buy an addressable strip like this one
I highly recommend checking out the adafruit LED tutorial. The whole world of LEDs can get pretty overwhelming pretty fast, but once you have a solid understanding of electrical currents, circuitry, and LED formats, you'll find yourself taking on increasingly ambitious projects!!
If you need any other pointers or suggestions on where to start looking, please shoot me a DM any time :D
You have similar goals, and are in a similar place as I am so I don't have much to add. I personally don't want to the bare LEDs because I'm worried that they will be too directional so I was considering this diffusing mounting channel. A very diy friend of mine said you can also rub the tips with a bit of sandpaper to frost them, but I'm taking that with a grain of salt. Good luck with your project.if possible please post your results.
Yes, you will need a power supply and a controller of some kind (similar to what came with the original kit).
I searched Amazon with the term "LED strip controller" and found this which should work fine . It's even the same brand as what you have (not that it's critical to do that)
Here's some connectors with wire and plugs on amazon if you prefer to order from there.
It's all pretty standard stuff for the most part.
Have fun
Aren't SOME LEDs focused (ie a painting at a display/art gallery)? Like the one with the beam angles while others are omnidirectional?
Also somethign really weird, I bought the Philips slims
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I134ORI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JM72W58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
the 2x450lum are DEFINITELY brighter than the 1 900. Why is this? I feel like lum ratings on the LEDs are VERY understated. Compared to my CLFs 900 lum CLF is the same brightness as the 450lum Philips
I purchased an Arduino and 3 sets of these led strips as they go around the ceiling in the room. I also got mounting brackets as it defuses the lights AND can screw into surfaces as opposed to the LED which has a sticker backing, so once on a surface they can't really be moved. But with the mounting hardware I could possibly move them.... maybe.
I also got this power supply but with 3 strips I don't go over a Brigthness of 150-ish. (as opposed to 255) You'll also need a ac power cable to the power supply. However, so good news here, if you're only using one strip you SHOULD be able to get by with only power from the USB.
Now on to programming; There is the Arduino IDE free of course, but you'll have to learn a TINY amount of C. If you've worked with C#, JavaScript you'll be fine. It's not that low level. You will want to get the FastLED library and then select the DemoReel100 project and it will show you lots of options on how to control the LEDs.
As for having your PC control the LEDs, it will depend on exactly what that means. I have a C# app that sends data to the Arduino and then the Arduino deals with the execution of that command.
Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.
Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.
The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.
The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?
And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?
I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.
If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30
What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/APV-35-12-Single-Output-Switching-Supply/dp/B00FRC18FW
As it turns out, Meanwell also sells enclosed drivers. I previously thought they only had exposed circuit boards. The only thing I have to do for this unit is screw on an AC plug like this? https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B0015OCG9S
Edit: or even better: https://smile.amazon.com/original-GS25A12-P1J-meanwell-Industrial-Adaptor/dp/B00DEDBBGW
all constant voltage LED strips are customizable in length. All you need to do is cut across the cut points (usually marked)
As long as you have the correct power supply (12V or 24V) that shouldn’t matter.
These connectors make it a bit easier when connecting strips together, although I’m not sure if they come in longer lengths. Just make sure they’re the right width.
HitLights LED Light Strip Connector, 8mm Single Color 3528-6 Inch Any Angle Strip to Strip, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062RBR84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nLfrDb5BWSWBD
ETA: let me know if you need help :)
I've gotten random chinese led's off of ebay. Some are alright, some are not so great. I wouldn't buy a large number of a kind you haven't tried. Walmart started carrying great value brand 40w replacements($5) and 60w replacement (~$7) that I think are decent (and I believe 2700k) and that's what I use in my bedroom at the moment. I got the cheaper non dimmable, and they're better in downward facing lamps (not as good multidirectional) Home depot carries some "philips slim style" (http://www.amazon.com/Philips-433227-Equivalent-SlimStyle-Dimmable/dp/B00I134ORI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421924669&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=philips+slim+style)
That are dimmable and produce light in all directions that are decent too. Only downside is a very faint buzzing sound (not loud, but it's there) emitted from them.
Here's the strip I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018X04ES2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I'm using these lights for a music performance so just white strips aren't an option. I'm currently using these https://www.amazon.com/Makerfocus-Charging-Lithium-Battery-Protection/dp/B071RG4YWM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549826895&sr=8-5&keywords=charger+module. With a fully charged battery, I'm still not getting as much brightness as when I have the charger module plugged in via USB or adding a battery at both ends, but would like to just use 1 battery if possible. I won't be running the lights at full white except for the end of the show.
I’ve used these diffusers with good results. No more spots on my retinas.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sand-Surface-PMMA-Lens-Diameter-10mm-Light-Transmission-For-SMD-5050-LED/352163883530?itemId=352163883530&amp;varId=621600413364
I would recommend 30 LEDs per meter strips that are NOT waterproof. If they have waterproofing it will be basically impossible to attach. I used superglue and lots of patience. If you go higher density on the lights it’s gonna take a long time.
The other option is to use metal tracks that little plastic filters snap into. The metal also works as a nice heat sink and way to attach to the wall. You can also use higher density 60 LEDs per meter strips without worrying about the pain of attaching individual lenses. Don’t get 120 LEDs per meter - too power hungry for most applications. There are several types and perhaps better prices out there but an example would be this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_4_3?ie=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01DM7G91G&amp;pd_rd_r=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6&amp;pd_rd_w=c2rRH&amp;pd_rd_wg=z9ew8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6
Amazon
Edit:
Something like this, but there are lots of styles on amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/
Also, this is just the aluminum channel. Lights, wire, and power supply sold separately.
Yes, I believe this is the exact one
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Flexible-300xSMD3528-Adhesive-2026WW-31K/dp/B002QQ48TK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526591228&sr=8-1&keywords=2026ww-31k
I have decided to just build my own. I will be using a raspberry pi as the controller. Here are the parts list:
I will probably be building a web server to allow me to change the colors from my phone.
> https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C
Thank you so much!
I have a project like this going on for our new house. We had a strip of RGB lights in the living room at our old house (something like this) and we loved it, but the strip was mounted directly on the wall facing out and it was very harsh. The remote control was not very good, you had to have it pointed just right at the receiver for it to work. But we miss it so much that we want to install a better system in our new house. I want to use RGBW strips for the extra light this time but when I start looking at the strips, power supplies, controllers, I can't get a grasp on what combination I'll need.
Something like This?
That kit does come with a power supply however if you want to run the lights on a battery than I suggest getting a 12 volt battery.
Here is a link to a 12 Volt battery
Link - https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2TN1JXSHD9MY9&amp;keywords=12+volt+battery&amp;qid=1550782240&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=12+volt+%2Caps%2C271&amp;sr=8-5
That battery will run each reel for about an hour and half before going flat. If you run both reels at the same time from the battery than you will only get about half that time.
How would this work out?
LEDs
Controller
PSU
sorry I couldn't find the description to the product but here it is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFPR7TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Unfortunately its a limitation of the controller. I don't know of one that has memory state.
You could get one of those really small battery backup power strips used for cable modems/routers and put this on it.
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Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C
Depending on the stiip voltage....any small 12v leadacid battery.
Else, there are small A23 batteries that might power small amounts for a short time, they are also 12v
not sure what setup you want explained, because I'm not sure what you want. Strips have a + and a - terminal, or wires. +(red) goes to battery +, and - (black) goes to the negative terminal.