Top products from r/led

We found 37 product mentions on r/led. We ranked the 224 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/led:

u/arctic-aqua · 2 pointsr/led

Alright, I’ll do my best to explain what I did. First off, material list:

4 x WS2811 5m 30LEDS/m addressable LED strip 12V in IP67 waterproof tube
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01CNL6EG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x 12V 30A DC power supply
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Magic LED Bluetooth controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LW1J10W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Sound activated controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0792T73VB/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10m (cut in half to get 20m) of Gorilla Mounting Tape Clear (link is for black, but I bought clear)
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gorilla-glue-mounting-tape-black-0671081p.html#srp

14 gauge wire
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/southwire-30-metre-in-wall-speaker-wire-yellow-14-2-0529814p.html#srp

18 gauge wire (brown thermostat wire)
Can’t find a link, but I had it in my garage from another project

There is a strip that holds the soffit in place on the far side from the house that was a perfect channel for the LED strip. You can buy white aluminium channels for LED strips with nice frost glazing that diffuses the light. I would have bought them, but soffit and house trim are all brown and I could not find it in brown. I cleaned the surface of the house, then suck the tape to the strip and ran a knife down the side to cut it in half. I then attached it all to the house. 20m fit perfectly around the lower level trim on my house.

I have built-in shelves all around the inside of my garage. So I put the power supply on an upper shelf near the centre of the strips. I picked 12V strips over 5V strips to minimize voltage drops. There are numerous online voltage drop calculators, I used this one:

https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

My electrical engineering friends tell me I need to size the wire for no more than a 3% voltage drop. That might be a bit overkill for low-voltage LED lights, but that’s what is in the CEC for building wiring. I ended up using 14-gauge wire and ran power to each strip. It worked out to be a bit more than a 3% loss. I used the brown thermostat wire to tee off the main line indoors and ran it through the wall to power the strips. Each connection was done using crimp-style splice connectors that I had left-over from wiring a stereo in my boat.

On the far end I mounted the Magic LED Bluetooth controller (inside) and ran an extra run of the thermostat wire for the data signal. The controller worked great once I put in the right settings. I also set the wiring up so I can connect the sound activated controller outside. On Halloween I plan on setting up some singing pumpkins and have the lights dance to the music.

I hope this helps and good luck with your project. A key thing to keep in mind is you need to run power to each strip, otherwise, you will have too much line-loss, generate lots of heat, and the colours will be different on the far end. It can, and should, come from the same power supply, but just run additional power lines out to each strip.

u/orange_couch · 1 pointr/led

yeah, one of those strips are 24v strips, i'm surprised they lit up at all. 12v1A isn't enough current to do much.

​

this page says that you're looking at 72W for the full 5m strip, http://www.ledlightsworld.com/page.html?id=38

​

so that's a 12v, 6A power supply. I recommend trying to cut a small piece off one strip, and see if that works with your controllers

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAO4CUY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 these ones are kinda crap to be honest. they don't have red green and blue in each led, only a red led, then a blue, then a green. in aggregate with really amazing diffusion you'll be able to make purples and oranges, but it won't look near as good as the other two strips you listed which are actually rgb per chip.

​

so step one: cut off 5 leds (or wherever the cut line is on the strip) and see if that works with your power supply and controller. if it does then get a better power supply (hint: it won't look like a tiny little wall wart. at a minimum you'll need something that looks like this, however if you want some of the best you can get, mean well has you covered: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-RS-75-12-Supply-Single/dp/B005T8XCLW/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1550809827&sr=8-18&keywords=12v+6a+dc+power+supply

​

let me know if you have any questions!

u/binaryLoadLifter · 2 pointsr/led

Best of luck. If you want to get adventurous you can get an electric griddle like this and set it to around 250 and reflow the whole board and just pluck the LED off with a pair of tweezers. I will admit that is pretty hard to get the new LED soldered on well at that point though.

u/mrjoedelaney · 1 pointr/led

Yeah, from the looks of it, your LED strip is a "dumb" RGB, in that each color channel, ie Red, Green, and Blue, each gets its own voltage line, along with a fourth ground wire. This means that the WHOLE strip will always be the same color based on whatever voltage is coming from your controller.


In my experience, all of the music reactive controllers are built to control addressable LED strips, most commonly of the WS2812B variety.


In order to connect your current controller to a usable strip, you'll need to buy an addressable strip like this one


I highly recommend checking out the adafruit LED tutorial. The whole world of LEDs can get pretty overwhelming pretty fast, but once you have a solid understanding of electrical currents, circuitry, and LED formats, you'll find yourself taking on increasingly ambitious projects!!


If you need any other pointers or suggestions on where to start looking, please shoot me a DM any time :D

u/_Thunder_Child_ · 1 pointr/led

You have similar goals, and are in a similar place as I am so I don't have much to add. I personally don't want to the bare LEDs because I'm worried that they will be too directional so I was considering this diffusing mounting channel. A very diy friend of mine said you can also rub the tips with a bit of sandpaper to frost them, but I'm taking that with a grain of salt. Good luck with your project.if possible please post your results.

u/kent_eh · 2 pointsr/led

Yes, you will need a power supply and a controller of some kind (similar to what came with the original kit).

I searched Amazon with the term "LED strip controller" and found this which should work fine . It's even the same brand as what you have (not that it's critical to do that)

Here's some connectors with wire and plugs on amazon if you prefer to order from there.

It's all pretty standard stuff for the most part.

Have fun

u/zetsui · 1 pointr/led

Aren't SOME LEDs focused (ie a painting at a display/art gallery)? Like the one with the beam angles while others are omnidirectional?

Also somethign really weird, I bought the Philips slims
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I134ORI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JM72W58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the 2x450lum are DEFINITELY brighter than the 1 900. Why is this? I feel like lum ratings on the LEDs are VERY understated. Compared to my CLFs 900 lum CLF is the same brightness as the 450lum Philips

u/JamesWjRose · 2 pointsr/led

I purchased an Arduino and 3 sets of these led strips as they go around the ceiling in the room. I also got mounting brackets as it defuses the lights AND can screw into surfaces as opposed to the LED which has a sticker backing, so once on a surface they can't really be moved. But with the mounting hardware I could possibly move them.... maybe.

I also got this power supply but with 3 strips I don't go over a Brigthness of 150-ish. (as opposed to 255) You'll also need a ac power cable to the power supply. However, so good news here, if you're only using one strip you SHOULD be able to get by with only power from the USB.

Now on to programming; There is the Arduino IDE free of course, but you'll have to learn a TINY amount of C. If you've worked with C#, JavaScript you'll be fine. It's not that low level. You will want to get the FastLED library and then select the DemoReel100 project and it will show you lots of options on how to control the LEDs.

As for having your PC control the LEDs, it will depend on exactly what that means. I have a C# app that sends data to the Arduino and then the Arduino deals with the execution of that command.

u/BillDaCatt · 2 pointsr/led

Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.

Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.

The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.

The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?

And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?

I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.

If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30

u/yangw · 1 pointr/led

What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/APV-35-12-Single-Output-Switching-Supply/dp/B00FRC18FW


As it turns out, Meanwell also sells enclosed drivers. I previously thought they only had exposed circuit boards. The only thing I have to do for this unit is screw on an AC plug like this? https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B0015OCG9S


Edit: or even better: https://smile.amazon.com/original-GS25A12-P1J-meanwell-Industrial-Adaptor/dp/B00DEDBBGW

u/ilikizi · 1 pointr/led

all constant voltage LED strips are customizable in length. All you need to do is cut across the cut points (usually marked)

As long as you have the correct power supply (12V or 24V) that shouldn’t matter.

These connectors make it a bit easier when connecting strips together, although I’m not sure if they come in longer lengths. Just make sure they’re the right width.

HitLights LED Light Strip Connector, 8mm Single Color 3528-6 Inch Any Angle Strip to Strip, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062RBR84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nLfrDb5BWSWBD

ETA: let me know if you need help :)

u/74orangebeetle · 1 pointr/led

I've gotten random chinese led's off of ebay. Some are alright, some are not so great. I wouldn't buy a large number of a kind you haven't tried. Walmart started carrying great value brand 40w replacements($5) and 60w replacement (~$7) that I think are decent (and I believe 2700k) and that's what I use in my bedroom at the moment. I got the cheaper non dimmable, and they're better in downward facing lamps (not as good multidirectional) Home depot carries some "philips slim style" (http://www.amazon.com/Philips-433227-Equivalent-SlimStyle-Dimmable/dp/B00I134ORI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421924669&sr=8-2&keywords=philips+slim+style)

That are dimmable and produce light in all directions that are decent too. Only downside is a very faint buzzing sound (not loud, but it's there) emitted from them.

u/oddepoxy · 1 pointr/led

Here's the strip I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018X04ES2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I'm using these lights for a music performance so just white strips aren't an option. I'm currently using these https://www.amazon.com/Makerfocus-Charging-Lithium-Battery-Protection/dp/B071RG4YWM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549826895&sr=8-5&keywords=charger+module. With a fully charged battery, I'm still not getting as much brightness as when I have the charger module plugged in via USB or adding a battery at both ends, but would like to just use 1 battery if possible. I won't be running the lights at full white except for the end of the show.

u/Kineticus · 1 pointr/led

I’ve used these diffusers with good results. No more spots on my retinas.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sand-Surface-PMMA-Lens-Diameter-10mm-Light-Transmission-For-SMD-5050-LED/352163883530?itemId=352163883530&varId=621600413364

I would recommend 30 LEDs per meter strips that are NOT waterproof. If they have waterproofing it will be basically impossible to attach. I used superglue and lots of patience. If you go higher density on the lights it’s gonna take a long time.

The other option is to use metal tracks that little plastic filters snap into. The metal also works as a nice heat sink and way to attach to the wall. You can also use higher density 60 LEDs per meter strips without worrying about the pain of attaching individual lenses. Don’t get 120 LEDs per meter - too power hungry for most applications. There are several types and perhaps better prices out there but an example would be this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_4_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DM7G91G&pd_rd_r=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6&pd_rd_w=c2rRH&pd_rd_wg=z9ew8&psc=1&refRID=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6

u/greenish2 · 0 pointsr/led

Amazon

Edit:

Something like this, but there are lots of styles on amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/

Also, this is just the aluminum channel. Lights, wire, and power supply sold separately.

u/klop2031 · 1 pointr/led

I have decided to just build my own. I will be using a raspberry pi as the controller. Here are the parts list:

u/Tandarin · 1 pointr/led

I have a project like this going on for our new house. We had a strip of RGB lights in the living room at our old house (something like this) and we loved it, but the strip was mounted directly on the wall facing out and it was very harsh. The remote control was not very good, you had to have it pointed just right at the receiver for it to work. But we miss it so much that we want to install a better system in our new house. I want to use RGBW strips for the extra light this time but when I start looking at the strips, power supplies, controllers, I can't get a grasp on what combination I'll need.

u/SmurfingCht · 3 pointsr/led

That kit does come with a power supply however if you want to run the lights on a battery than I suggest getting a 12 volt battery.

Here is a link to a 12 Volt battery

Link - https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2TN1JXSHD9MY9&keywords=12+volt+battery&qid=1550782240&s=gateway&sprefix=12+volt+%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-5

That battery will run each reel for about an hour and half before going flat. If you run both reels at the same time from the battery than you will only get about half that time.

u/WithGreatRespect · 2 pointsr/led

Unfortunately its a limitation of the controller. I don't know of one that has memory state.

You could get one of those really small battery backup power strips used for cable modems/routers and put this on it.

​

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C

u/CarbonGod · 1 pointr/led

Depending on the stiip voltage....any small 12v leadacid battery.

Else, there are small A23 batteries that might power small amounts for a short time, they are also 12v


not sure what setup you want explained, because I'm not sure what you want. Strips have a + and a - terminal, or wires. +(red) goes to battery +, and - (black) goes to the negative terminal.