(Part 2) Top products from r/lockpicking

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We found 63 product mentions on r/lockpicking. We ranked the 454 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/lockpicking:

u/7PIP · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Yeah, I'm trying to save money on it too. What padlock brand/model are you disassembling? Field stripping this Kwikset is the first thing I did when I got it. Very nice to gain that familiarity with the workings before attacking it.

I went about making the picks by printing a Romstar template, matching scale to the ruler in inches on the print-out. Cut out the desired tools and glued them each to a ~5" long section of feeler stock (1/2" wide x 0.02" thick, meant for testing tolerances in machine shops and production lines. 0.02-0.025" is supposed to be the thickness for North American keyways.)

After glue drying, I clamped the feeler stock in a horizontal position in this small vice, and then used EZ Lock Metal Cut-off wheels @~30k RPM to generate a rough shape (Cat#EZ456, should be able to find for $2 per wheel or less, or even cheaper off-brand products). The slower you go and the less you remove at a time, the longer your wheel will last and the less likely you are to overheat the steel (which can cause weaknesses). I used long, light strokes down the whole 5" of feeler for every pass, removing sub-millimeter quantities each time.

I left about 0.5mm of the white paper surrounding the printed tool template, so that I could more cautiously produce the final tool shape with an aluminum oxide grinding wheel (Dremel 952,932,etc). I clamped the Dremel 4300 down to the counter with the bit hanging over the sink, and then hand-held the tool while using the length of the grinding wheel to remove some of the mountains and valley produced by the very thin metal cutting wheel. Holding the pick while leaving the Dremel clamped made it easy to affect how much metal was being removed with small changes in force applied. I used the corners of the grinding wheel to remove away the final material around the snake/hook/half-diamond business end. The same wheel was then used to remove rough spots and round out the edges.

Finishing used some 240 grit sand paper and then a felt buffing wheel with abrasive compound. All these Dremel items came in this Dremel 4300 kit I was gifted a while back. I have a feeling a bench grinder will do a much faster, cleaner job -- but we've all got to start somewhere! :-D

Edit: I'm in the same situation with the recording. Still have to get my white belt yet though! :-D I'll have to figure out a good spot for my phone, or maybe use my webcam. I agree on the cam, never hurts to have a cheap Logitech cam around.

u/GoreWound · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I have to assume the cost of a set of Best locks can be offset either by getting a bulk/commercial account deal of some kind, or simply through the interchangeability of the cores meaning the maintenance costs offset very quickly compared to having to fully replace entire less expensive locks to replace a key.

But if you only need one padlock for normal security usage, it can be kinda hard to justify costs like that. The larger all-steel American padlocks tend to be very good value, but I feel like I should give a shout-out to the A5360 it's slightly pricier but has a fully shrouded shackle, something I consider a very valuable security feature.

Also, the Abus Rock is a comparably priced and very similar padlock with a slightly better core in it.

u/Mister08 · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Awesome job!

Not to dimish the feeling of success at all, because I distinctly remember the feeling of popping that first lock but-- I would recommend trying some more advanced locks soon. The Master 3 can literally be picked with a zip tie. While it can be a good learning tool, it's probably more beneficial to move to something like this

u/stab_in_the_eye · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

How does OP's Brinks compare to the one on the list?

Brinks 162-40001 1-9/16-Inch 40mm Laminated Steel Padlock, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPECW6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_g.eJybXDVF1K4

I have the 140 on there because it is easily defeated. It can be raked and zipped open easily. It is a bit difficult to SPP but a good introduction.

Is this Brinks different enough from the one on this list? I do love the brinks because they have excellent feedback and a non-threatening spool. The binding order to mine is 1-2-3-4 with the spool in 4.

u/Nemo_Griff · 1 pointr/lockpicking

There are people that swear by graphite but there is a general consensus that graphite is messy. I think that most people will also agree that WD40 can collect dust in the air and make things sticky.

I love and use Houdini Lock Lube. It smells great and a little goes a long way. Another option that some guys love is Tri-Flow. The last common option is a TPFE (?) product. This is a Teflon powder suspended in an alcohol solution. You spray it, the alcohol evaporates and the Teflon stick to whatever it was sprayed on. I have heard that it might get a bit messy too but at least this kind isn't black.

u/invisiblebob8616 · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I would recommend getting a lot of different models of locks and getting a couple of each. This gives you a couple of different key biddings for each lock in case one is particularly easy or hard and also lets you practice on many models of locks so you don't just get really good at opening one particular model. Here are the models I have and would happily recommend with included links of where I bought mine. Feel free to shop around for better deals or shorter delivery times (specifically allpadlocks.com has great prices but they are NOT fast). If you order 2 of everything on this list it comes out to ~$120. If you're going to trim something I would probably start without the 72/40 and 1105's and add those later once you have built up your skill level (plus the 1100 series has a long lead time right now because of component shortages)

Yellow belt:

u/CorrectJeans · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

The ingredients you need to make impressioning work are:

  1. A very good, fine file, which is able to leave a semi-polished surface. This is really the only big investment you need to make to get this to work. Here's what I have:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H1U28C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. A jewler's loupe. I don't care how good you think your eyes are, you're not going to get super far if you aren't looking at the key through a lit magnifying glass.

  3. A hand vice of some sort to hold the key. You can get by without one, but I would advise you at least wear gloves in that case, or you can mess up your fingers like I did.

  4. A vice to hold the lock, unless you're only impressioning padlocks. If you already pick a bunch, you already have this.

  5. Significant amounts of patience. It will take time to get this right. It is very difficult to distinguish marks even when they're well-made, and nailing down your method for making marks will also take some time.

    With regards to your blanks, you do not need to buy specialty soft blanks. It is definitely possible to impression with normal stock blanks, which is what I do. Softer keys will certainly make it easier to generate marks, but if you're just starting, it will also increase the risk of you bending or breaking keys before you've finished cutting them.
u/Masterkey25 · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Aluminum isn't a good material for security. A corrosive area , LOTO yes... but you can cut it with a jr. Hack saw. If you want something that is the best bang for your buck then you want something like this. It has a full 6 pin KIK cylinder and anti drill pins and a spinning plate. Is does have a pretty thick shackle though.


https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-2-5-Inch-Hardened-Security/dp/B001V5IYSS?th=1&psc=1

This is what I would put on my locker. if Walmart was out of masterlocks.

u/KillerPicking · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

In order from my progression:

Master 140

Brinks

Abus

American

Now it's a fairly large jump from brinks to abus so I recommend getting a few more brinks and masters first. Just get a different model with "higher" security every time until you think you are up for it.

I pulled these links off amazon for pictures and whatnot, I'm sure you can get a better deal anywhere so do some searching before you buy.

Edit: Forgot to mention the helpful sidebar!

u/anarchtica · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.

The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.

Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.

Good luck!

u/K9b1ack · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I have two of the Stanley padlocks right now and I haven't been able to pick either of them! Watching multiple gutting of these guys it seems to vary how many security pins are in them. Yours is actually the least amount of security pins I've seen in one yet. That being said I think they are the best dollar/security padlock on the market right now. I think the next step up in that sector is the Stanley 60mm version and above that being a Abus 83CS/50 with a Mul-T-Lock Junior MT4 (dimple in dimple) with a combined price of at least $70.

u/vff · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Indeed! Those are great ideas!

I just found this saw which is 40 teeth per inch with a kerf thickness of .0165", and says it works with metal. That seems promising, and relatively inexpensive.

I'm trying to not buy too many tools since I'm away from my workshop until late summer, and right now I'm basically working out of the equivalent of a hotel room.

u/canigetsomecereal · 16 pointsr/lockpicking

You two should try Masterlock 141D's. They're practically everywhere, easy to pick, and give great feedback when setting the pins.

​

Link to Amazon's 141D listing for reference.

u/ith · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I really like the Stanley locks personally. They are rekeyable, bit an arm and a leg, and really nice. I own three of them. (2 60mm padlocks and a 50mm with shackle guard). The 50mm is under 16.00 even. Here are the three I have purchased that I am really happy with:

50mm w/ shackle guard

60mm w/ shackle guard

60mm fat padlock

That being said, if it is a storage unit that is enclosed, I would have no problem using a normal Chateaux discus lock. I use the Chateaux C970 discus lock, but now that I have found the 50mm stanley with shackle guard I am going to start using them since they are actually a little cheaper than the Chateaux and gives me the option to key it any way I like (thanks to the removable cylinder).

HTH

u/throwawaytnt · 1 pointr/lockpicking

The locks that look like these generally work with the comb picks.

Good luck fitting these tools in anything worth picking, though >.> I've got the Comb BAR set, and this is probably going to be the only set of comb picks I'll ever buy due to their uselessness.

u/watermelon_milk · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Alright, I don't know what conditions or environments the lock is gonna be in, but here's my two suggestions.
The American is a bit harder to pick, but slightly less physically strong as it lacks the shackle guard. It is however made out of solid steel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/?coliid=I2W5VXJN39AN2D&colid=10884BQRHBHB8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5200D-Solid-Padlock/dp/B009YO0CF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=american+5200&qid=1551362477&s=hi&sr=1-2

u/naswek · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

If you're using a cable, then you just need any lock that can't be shimmed, bypassed, or raked. Your system will never be more secure than the easily cut cable.

This Master 570 fits the bill. Small enough to fit in your pocket. Lightweight aluminum. Slightly more secure than a cheap cable. Costs $12 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERLOCK-570DPF-1-1-Solid-Padlock/dp/B000BD5DFI

Edit: forgot the link.

u/Foahr · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I first picked a Master Lock #3 Link and this Link. The second one is neet for learning as it has a big key way and only 4 pins. You can single pin pick it or rake the shit out of it. I got them both from target.

u/Levi325 · 5 pointsr/lockpicking

You could always get a MTL Jr KIK from amazon and put it in a KIK padlock and start working on purple, too :)

u/newbewts · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Because it attracts dirt and dust and over time it will be like you sprayed a soda inside. It gunks up the lock horribly. Use Houdini, it works really well and it smells nice too. http://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459130125&sr=8-1&keywords=houdini+spray

u/LockedLogic · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I’ve heard really good things about Lock Houdini, which is a lube specifically designed for use in locks.

u/GALACTICA-Actual · 5 pointsr/lockpicking

I'd turn around and walk out.

I keep very little of my gear in my locker, I keep all my guitars and main amps at either my folk's house or the studio. But I keep my tech. cases, boats, a few amps, and now, almost everything I own from my apt.

I can't tell you how many guys/bands I know/see that store their stuff in 24 hour access, and put a fucking Master lock on it, thinking because they got the one with the yellow rubber coating that it's a tough lock. Then they're surprised when they go to get their gear for their next show, and their locker's been emptied. (And guess what? It happened 10 minutes after they loaded it in there.)

I also can't tell you how many times I've told smaller acts pulling a trailer to spend sixty bucks on a better lock, back it against a wall, and pull the coil wire.

I get an indoor locker and put this on it. They'd have to tear the door off to get in there, unless they've got a few hours to try to work it.

u/JaggedOne · 1 pointr/lockpicking

You mean something like this? That looks nice, and is reasonably priced.

u/smartowlick · 1 pointr/lockpicking

This Stanley is suppose to be a decent one to get started on. It has some security pins. I dont know exactly what kinds though

u/sir_squidz · 1 pointr/lockpicking

some of those are stupid expensive outside the US though, brinks 40mm in USA $7 on amazon uk £40 ($50)

You could get the sparrows progressive lock set shipped from canada for about the same.

edit: I think OP's USA based but it might help others to know

u/MajorDerp4 · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Here is the link to the lock on amazon!

u/IAmTheRoommate · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I like the panavice 350 but at $70, it's too expensive for my budget. Instead, I opted for a cheap hobby table vice which works well so far. At $14, there's not much risk if you don't like it or it breaks, etc...

It was this or one of those vacuum vices you can get from harbor freight for $20 and the youtube video reviews weren't particularly great.

u/mgsecure · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

The American 5200 and the Mako 427 are blue, cheapish, and generally on amazon in the US.

u/LockAndCode · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

I use a cordless right angle grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel. There are some padlocks that can take hammer blows and have boron shackles that break bolt cutter jaws. Nothing resists the grinder.

u/potkettleracism · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

Depends on how tabletop you need it to be. I don't like the vacuum-seal ones, so my first one was this vise and I still use it. Doesn't work if your table is glass, though.

u/falso · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Hi, I used the 932 tip, and no, I dont have a bench grinder.

I sort of "learned" by this http://www.h-i-r.net/2008/07/make-your-own-lock-picks-part-1.html