Top products from r/longrange

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

Hold on a sec while I put on my rant pants and pull them up to my armpits... Okay, I'm ready now.

[rant]

Dude! You have an IR this, laser that, and all sorts of other Gucci crap but you didn't spend $99 to buy the single most important tool for LR shooting? How in holy aich-ee-double-hockey-sticks did you make a drop table when you don't know your velocity?!?!

Don't tell me you used the velocity number on the box.

Seriously, don't say that.

(sigh)

You used the number on the box, didn't you?

[/rant]

(edited to add)

Okay - I had a shot of whiskey and now I feel better.

Seriously, here's what I recommend. Ditch the MM, LR, caliper, and thermo. Bring the rifle, ammo, mat, estimated drop table, whatever food/clothing/snacks you want, and a folding chair so you have someplace to sit. Also bring basic cleaning/lube supplies and a small toolkit.

Arrive early. Find the person in charge, tell them you are new, and ask to be paired with someone willing to help you get sorted. I'm sure there will be at least one person willing to help, LR people are generally pretty cool and helpful.

Watch, shoot, listen, learn. Figure out corrections for your estimated drop table. Things are pretty easy to 600, then they get real hard real fast. At some point you will be tempted to say "Yeah, but TibosaurusRex says...". RESIST that urge. Ask a lot of questions about the wind. LOOK at the gear the good shooters have. Ask them what they are using, and how they like it. Ask to look through rifle scopes and spotting scopes to get a feel for what you like. Make a note of how many people are shooting factory ammo v. their own loads.

You'll have a great time. But seriously, get a chrono.

I'll start by saying I think that savage looks pretty awesome. However:


Despite a lot of hate on the AAC-SD I have one and I love it. Out of the box it shot sub-MOA with factory load XM118s and PPU 168s. The factory Xmark Pro gets unnecessary hate for no reason. It has amazing adjustment and feel out of the box compared to a lot of the hair triggers people try to put on their rifles. You really don't need another trigger but you can if you want to waste the money. Remington will do the recall on the rifle for free for the "totally fires itself if you run it down to the lowest setting and bump it like a dumbass" bullshit that is not even true of any R700 ever built, but you can send it in and they will do it for you. I sent both of mine in just because it made it easier to ship them to my new house when I moved. Their customer support is pretty awesome. As is Smith and Wesson's and Winchesters in my experience.

The rifle is stock for me at the moment and I am using a Caldwell bi-pod with a Bushnell elite scope. The scope isn't the end all be all but it is the best thing I've ever shot through as a civilian. I was in the same boat as you money wise. I do notice the complaint about the free float being negated with a bi-pod sometimes since the Hogue stock is basically rubber but if you fire each round with the exact same fundamentals down it will shoot sub-moa still. I'm using a 20MOA down scope mount from Nightforce and I love it. The rifle is a bit heavy and I do want to swap out the stock eventually for a M24 or M40 variant but it can easily be handled and used to shoot and move if you choose to practice like that. I've had it out to 500 yards so far and at that range it still shot a 16oz water bottle off the wall at our tactical range from our elevated tower. I'll see if I have any pictures of it somewhere and I'll post it, or just take it out later and take a picture of it.

I got the rifle itself from Buds Gun shop Police discount side of the house for $600 shipped to my FFL and most everything else from Amazon since there wasn't a good shop where I lived at the time.

Rifle

Scope

Scope mount/rings

Bipod

Scope Level

>where I can make a 500 yard kill shot, and hit sub MOA at 800. Is that doable with my set up?

It's possible, though likely challenging with your setup unless your barrel ends up being really good and you find ammo it really likes. And you will need lots of range time and practice.

As for bipods, you don't want to cheap out and get imported Chinese shit, but you don't need to spend a ton of money either. Harris occupies the sweet spot for durable, reliable, low weight bipods at reasonable money.

This is the one most people on here recommend for flat prone and bench shooting. You might want the 9-12 for prone shooting innawoods hunting.

I used the notched non-swivel version that is $20 cheaper or so.


As for rings, I prefer to get a rail AND rings so that there is something really consistent that the scope is mounted to that isn't subject to flex or QC issues like receivers can sometimes be. The rail acts kindof like a buffer, they aren't expensive, and they give you 20 MOA of elevation if you choose. Plus they give you a Picatinny section that will give you a much greater selection of ring choices.

I also really like the Burris Signature Zee rings for solid, reliable, safe scope holding since the plastic inserts help spread the clamping force and prevent issues with rings being not perfectly true or the insides not exactly mating with the scope.

This Talley rail(I thought that was a rail for an m77, but apparently it isn't, see the rail from a poster below) and these rings are what I would put on my rifle.

Glad you liked it! That’s Ryan Cleckner, and I agree with you. I’ve really gotten into his stuff. He has more videos on YouTube (try searching “NSSF Ryan Cleckner”) and I’m loving going through his book (I’m a beginner). Best of luck!

Generally good points, and its a really worthwhile discussion, but point 1 is pretty hotly debated. For example, if you read The Wind Book for Rifle Shooters you will find that they completely disagree, and that wind in the first half is more important.

Aside from that, I think you have done a good job here, and I hope it sparks useful debate.

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

Love mine, congrats! I put this on it and am very happy with it:

Bushnell Elite Tactical 6-24x50 FFP ERS

Honestly I'm using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032MUIL4/ref=oh_details_o06_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my 22-250 and it has worked pretty well. Yeah there are a few little things like the collars where the springs attach can slip but I fixed that with a bit of sugru, and then added more sugru to help quiet it up a bit for varmint hunting.

If I were shooting something huge that was really heavy or had a big kick I would think about getting something more expensive... After I tried this cheapo on it.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5IL5X2/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJXUKDD490V61

My buddy is worried they scrimped somewhere to get the FFP tech in there. You love yours?

Funny part is it's goign on my 5.56 first for training and hunting this year. I just love the modularity.

Plano double scoped rifle case for me. Love it. Affordable, durable and legit. Not. Big fan of the pluck foam so I bought some replacement foam for cheap and cut with turkey shears. Works like a charm!

Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0029KDHQI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Foam here:
http://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/charcoal-R.html

I also have the tactical ar case from Plano and I'm equally as pleased with the quality of the product for the cost!

I just got a Primary Arms 4-14x FFP MIL-MIL scope. It's nice and $230 is a good deal.

Buy it from Amazon and save $15 in shipping!

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Arms-4-14X44-Mil-Scope/dp/B00L5IL5X2

I also started by watching Sniper 101. This is a better source for all the information found there.
It's available as an ebook and physically. I largely consider the series useful to a point, but not worth the 40+ hour investment. You can learn everything you need in much less time, and without massive tangential ramblings and half an hour of self-aggrandizing per video.

His whole "thing" basically boils down to "record your shots under every known condition so you can hit on a cold bore shot by referencing what you've already done." Requires a notebook to go shooting, in addition to the logbook most snipers use.

A ballistic calculator will basically get you there with a lot less effort.

Some people know this, others don't- you might have heard it already- but don't clean your bore from the muzzle side. That's probably the best tip I can give you to protect you from making a mistake early on.

In the book, however, there is one thing I disagree with, that's my personal preference (and I am by no means an expert- check my flair). The author likes second focal plane scopes; I prefer first focal plane. It's mostly about how you use the rifle, and what you're comfortable with.

I think the foam is something they stick on to protect it during shipping or something. I don’t have it on mine. I’m sure you can just pull it off if you like.

As for the bipod, check this out: https://www.amazon.com/POD-LOC-by-KMW/dp/B00GPSJF84

That should solve your tilt issues. As to the bipod coming loose from the rifle, I haven’t had that happen personally, but it’s possible the geometry just isn’t great. Maybe a couple layers of tape on the stock to give the bipod more grip?

The $20 spring kit for the Compass from Mcarbo helped me a lot, brings the trigger way down and does it safely from what I can tell. Before I installed that kit, I was actually moving the reticle just trying to squeeze the trigger on the lowest setting. With it installed it feels somewhere around 2-3lbs, breaks a lot cleaner, and there's no more jump when I squeeze the trigger. Also, if you're dialing distance with your turrets, you want a bubble level attached to the scope. A $10 one off amazon is doing fine for me. Without one, a couple degrees of cant between shots is inches (or feet) off at distance.

Also, even as an experienced shooter, when I started getting involved with long range this book from Ryan Cleckner taught me quite a few tips that made me even better.

I also bought a T/C Compass this year in 6.5CM, got a discounted shooting mat on Midway, a $20 bipod off amazon and a $100 UTG scope. I plan on upgrading to a Vortex, but the so-so UTG scope does okay for now. With that setup, I'm handloading Hornady ELD-X bullets and am doing a good job whapping golf balls at 300 yards currently.

Nice! If you haven't I'd recommend picking up a copy of the long range shooting handbook: https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Shooting-Handbook-Cleckner/dp/151865472X

It's not exhaustive, but it was pretty useful in coming up to speed (and cutting through the chaff).

http://www.cabelas.com/product/SAVAGE-FCP-SR-RIFLE/1969842.uts

https://www.amazon.com/SWFA-SS-10x42-Tactical-Riflescope/dp/B00GR79BGY

This will be a great starter setup to get you to 1000 yards for about $1000 if buying new. You'll get best bang for your buck buying the same rifle/scope on the used market, and could likely hit your $700 budget. Since you reload already, look for one of the rifles in 6.5CM.

Nice one. Thanks for your honest post. If you’re just starting out, I might suggest: https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_0uATDb2WJJQG5

I would make sure that your rifle can fit into the case prior to ordering it. I have both the 42" Plano case and the longer case with wheels (this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029KDHQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). My rifle (20" barrel) BARELY fits into the longer case. It's a great case overall though.

Extended Mag Release

allows you to drop your mag by extending your trigger finger while still holding the pistol grip.

18" handguard

allows you to mount your bipod 3 inches farther forward, reducing impact of movement at the rear of the rifle. for now, mount your bipod as far forward as you can.

titanium bolt shroud

optional, but still recommended. i broke the plastic firing pin tool the first time i used it. titanium wont do that.

anti cant indicator

there's a few vids on youtube about why you want one of these. they're inexpensive and this one flips out of the way when not in use.

hard case

when folded, my RPR fits in the case along with my spotting scope, tripod, weather meter, range finder, cleaning kit, 4 mags, shooting gloves, earpro and snipers logbook(1,2,3).

soft case

really a "rifle scabbard" that can be strapped to a backpack if you're going to be doing some back country shooting. pairs well with a 5 mag inline pouch which holds 5x 20 round mags side by side.

​

of all of these my top recommendations would be the mag release and cant indicator. they're inexpensive and helpful. the handguard, while a bit pricier is going to help with accuracy by reducing the impact of breathing/heartbeats. bolt shroud is a piece of mind purchase (something about a hunk of plastic INSIDE my rifle) everything else is optional but you're gonna want it eventually.

​

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

• EGW 20 MOA base ($39.99)
  
• 2 x Vortex Tactical 30mm rings ($19.99 x 2)
  
• Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP ($229.99)
  
• Wheeler FAT torque screwdriver ($44.99)
  
  This will bring you in under $500. You get a first focal plane mil/mil scope with adjustable power with plenty of internal adjustment to dial your elevation. Save up for better glass and upgrade as you go. This setup will get you to 1000 yards easily.

Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.

I found The Wind Book For Rifle Shooters to be a fantastic primer. It is conversational (kind of feels like you're having a chat with a kind uncle), but doesn't shy away from the math... and it just gets you to think about the wind and its effects properly.

I highly recommend it, even if it doesn't seem to get a lot of airtime here.

Any specific models that compete with the Razor?

I have the older Bushnell Elite Tactical Illuminated G2DMR on my RPR that I like, but this build feels like it needs something higher end. I saw that Bushnell has a newer elite tactical too that I was curious about

Now I'm also seeing that FFP (Front Focal Plane) is superior to SFP (Secondary Focal Plane), and a good budget scope for FFP is the Primary Arms Primary Arms 4-14X FFP? Could I use that at ranges below 100 yards?

I just came across this and thought I would share.


Update:
Amazon Prime has the fixed 10x elite mil/mil scopes for $223. With a 25% discount it comes to about $167 shipped.
Mil/Mil with working turrets works for my little gun project.

Most Bushnell scopes have free shipping from MidwayUSA at the moment as well.

I got a drag bag/ shooting mat combo that's almost exactly the same as this Larue one, but its less than half the price..it works great!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003G2S6J6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417973645&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Check out Bryan Litz' Applied Ballistics.

Empirical evidence indicates that all things being equal, a slower twist will group tighter than a faster twist.

Interestingly, Litz also mentions that twist rate "slows down" as the caliber increases, as larger diameter bullets (all things being equal) rotate at a slower "caliber per inch".

He hangs out on a couple of forums, and he is an absolute wealth of knowledge.

Edit: format

I've had a case flip out the back of the truck then ran over it. Pretty happy with my purchase.

Plano Molding Company All Weather Tactical Gun Case, 42-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_SIGJwbTCN8RY2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007FTARKM/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The straps are a little long but not bad. Also it's adjustable but by that it means there's a roll of foam in it that you cut off a little at a time until it's where you want it. It's got a nice little pouch which I'll end up putting a dope card in and it's also got a shell holder. Both held on with Velcro.

And for $16 it's solid

What he said! I use one and it's a great platform.

Harris Engineering S-BRM Hinged Base 6 - 9-Inch BiPod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJGXAI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_CGU8tb1KK5XHB

Normally the other option is a shooting bag / rest of some sort.

But I mean you can get a pretty cheap bipod for the same price as well.

Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon

I have the book. I’m pretty set on what rifle I want. But he says in the intro “read the whole book before you buy if you’re serious”

on Amazon

What scope rings did you buy? I see Vortex. What height?

Cheap voodoo tactical I found on amazon I modified to actually work really well!

Voodoo Tactical - Adjustable Rifle Buttstock Cheek Rest - Black Nylon with Ammo Carrier Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FTARKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GGqUDbJJ0C1TR

Should have mentioned I live in Canada... U.S. won't export scopes to us, and no canadian retailers carry SWFA. I did however find this scope on amazon for a very reasonable price. May I ask why you suggest fixed power? 10x seems low to me? I'm new to long range shooting but most guys I know have powerful scopes.

If you want a torque wrench/screw driver for scope mounting or other light smithing work Wheeler makes a good one.

Most scope rings/bases use 15-30 in-lbs. I'd highly recommend this one:


Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBqpxbSC2XE5G

This is the one that most people end up buying. I've had it for a couple years, 5 stars! It comes with all the bits you'll need.

Isn't that a Harris? Am I missing something? I thought Harris Engineering bipods were regarded as excellent quality, considered "bulletproof", and cost around $90.

book

honestly this book will give you just about everything you need to get started on long range.

I use the rear bag that came with this set:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002APAWY2?pc_redir=1409997155&robot_redir=1

It had a nice V shape for resting the stock.

I highly recommend Long Range Shooting Handbook by Ryan Cleckner. Also look him up on YouTube. https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o3fPBbQPWJ6H3

Oh damn, I'd honestly shy away from using loctite on mounts. Look into a torque wrench and once you're at spec you won't need loctite. I've got this one and have mounted about a dozen scopes with it: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Thanks, clear lower gets a lot of questions at the range.

Sounds like you need a torque wrench made for small arms.

I use rebar and this to make the stand. The targets are on there with some heavy duty leather. I bought them like that I think $100 for all three from a local shop.

Affordable beginners scope that has nothing but good reviews is the primary arms 4-14 x 44 ffp. I bought one for my Savage Hog Hunter and love it.

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Arms-4-14X-Tactical-PA4-14XFFP/dp/B00L5IL5X2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453474544&sr=8-1&keywords=primary+arms+4-14x44+ffp

http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44-mil-mil-ffp-scope/p/kt-pa4-14xffp/

I really like https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Ballistics-Long-Range-Shooting/dp/0615452566. The price on Amazon seems ridiculous. I think I paid $45 for the 2009 edution

Go on Amazon and get the Wheeler torque wrench.

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BJXJAbTNBDGD1

Album:

http://imgur.com/a/aS9kn

• Tikka T3 action, bolt flutes, custom knob
  
• Stainless 24" med palma Bartlein barrel fluted, 6.5 Creedmoor
  
• KRG X-Ray chassis
  
• APA Little Bastard Gen 2 brake
  
• Xtreme Hardcore Gear 20 MOA base with integral level
  
• 10 Round Accuracy International AICS magazine
  
• Atlas PSR BT46-LW17 bipod with ADM mount with BT37 Spike Feet
  
• Vortex Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27x56 EBR-2C MRAD 42706
  
• Vortex SV-3 throw Lever
  
• Vortex Defender E-10 and O-56 scope caps
  
• Spuhr SP-4601 34mm 1.18" 6MIL/20.6MOA Scope Mount
  
• Pig Skins barricade pad
  
• Sidewinder dope card holder
  
• Short Action Precision two round holder
  
• Weibad Tac Pad
  
• Weibad Mini Tac Pad rear bag
  
• Str8 Laced rear bag
  
• Tab Small rear bag
  
• NCSTAR VISM Shooting Bag/Mat
  
• Pelican 1750 case. The bag fits inside the case in place of the top layer of foam.
  
• Vortex Razor HD 20-60x85 Angled Spotting Scope with 30X MRAD Ranging Reticle Eyepiece
  
• Rifles Only FTW Bungee Sling
  
• 46.25" total length
  
• 14.7 lbs as shown with unloaded magazine
  
• Mike Lucas 6.5 mm Creedmoor Tikka Bore Guide
  
• Built by the Gun Vault in Utah
  
  

I would suggest investing in a wheeler FAT wrench so you know you are not over torquing your bolts. I have never broken any torx keys with using loctite.

Edit: Wheeler

http://www.amazon.com/The-Last-Stand-Target/dp/B00JVX4JB8
These work great! Just buy 4 pieces of rebar and you're G2G.
The brackets hold up really well. I've even shot mine once and I can't tell where the bullet hit. They're easily broken down and portable.
I originally hung my targets from this with chain, but I recently switched to fire hose. Both work, chain sounds better but swings more, the fire hose somewhat dampens the gong but swings less.

ah shoot sorry you are correct that isn't even the one I have lol! I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Ballistics-Long-Range-Shooting/dp/0615452566

If you want the source material for Jesus, see the bible. For external balistics as it relates to long range small arms, see the Gospel of Litz.

Is this the book I'm looking for?

I would suggest Ryan Cleckner's Long Range Shooting Handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Shooting-Handbook-Cleckner/dp/151865472X/

Just got this for Christmas yesterday.

Long Range Shooting Handbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hntyybWQ3F683

try the hardcover!

Good reviews on this one for $50.

I use this chrono:
https://www.amazon.com/Competition-Electronics-ProChrono-Digital-Chronograph/dp/B0028MTBJ4/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505225944&sr=1-5&keywords=chronograph+shooting

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029KDHQI?keywords=double%20scoped%20plano&qid=1457403241&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Arms-4-14X-Tactical-PA4-14XFFP/dp/B00L5IL5X2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465192120&sr=8-1&keywords=primary+arms+ffp

http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Tactical-Medium-Rings-Matte/dp/B003RC54QI/ref=sr_1_21?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1465192328&sr=1-21&keywords=scope+rings

http://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Pivot-Model-Bipod-Inch/dp/B0032MUIL4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1465192197&sr=1-1&keywords=caldwell+bipod

I'm a little late posting but I have one of these. You just plug in the size and slide it so it fits how many mils and it will tell you the distance.

I used to use a millot millot master paper computer and a ti-84, a pad of paper and 15 min to do what Strelok can do in seconds


They are still for sale. I should pick one up again


https://www.amazon.com/Mildot-Enterprises-Master/dp/B008WTWKEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=51566005090&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrfvsBRD7ARIsAKuDvMNNccsEBbCk_TgsMPyb7C7hdMlFRolETNoCgsWdeG3TV887spgx4O8aAvjgEALw_wcB&hvadid=274830423532&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1020476&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17390019741442370339&hvtargid=kwd-323959114234&hydadcr=9879_9624923&keywords=mildot+master&psc=1&qid=1570725427&sr=8-1

There are really so many options. But you can start by taking a look at this one https://www.amazon.com/Athlon-Optics-Riflescope-Illuminated-Reticle/dp/B0157N4640/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8

?

https://www.amazon.com/Athlon-Optics-Riflescope-Illuminated-Reticle/dp/B0157N4640/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518807885&sr=8-1&keywords=athlon+argos+btr+6-24x50+mil

> Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50

[how is this so cheap?](
https://www.amazon.com/Athlon-Optics-Riflescope-Illuminated-Reticle/dp/B0157N4640)

and this one? 8-34 x 56

I got one of these off a buddy for free and threw it on my 10/22 before switching it over to a cheap .223 bolt gun. The ammo carrier velcros on. https://www.amazon.com/Voodoo-Tactical-Adjustable-Buttstock-Carrier/dp/B007FTARKM
The actual cheek rest is a piece of dense foam rolled into a cylinder, so it's easy to cut it down to whatever height you need.

700 is cutting is close but you could get the savage hog hunter for $450 and the PA 4-14x44 for $230. You'd still need rings and a bipod but that's as close to $700 as I can think of.

Personally I’ve been really happy with The Last Stand it uses 1/2” rebar. The couplings can take impacts no problem and I keep a few pieces of extra rebar in my truck in case I shoot one out

My bolt gun basically just lives in my [NcStar] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003G2S6J6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) case. It doubles as a mat and is more than big enough to get the majority of my body off the ground. I'm 6'2". usually my knees are towards the rear of the mat with my toes on the ground.

This one in link. It does “tilt” side to side so you can level on uneven ground. I put the bigger handle on it to tighten it down. I leave it just loose enough so that I can tilt with a little force when needed.

Harris Engineering S-BRM Hinged... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJGXAI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

In this album are pictures of the gun in the case. Very durable.

https://imgur.com/gallery/VXxy4Wq


They have a new generation of the case out but this one was just fine for this rifle, it’s cheaper too for 64$ now

Plano All Weather Tactical Gun Case, 42-Inch (Previous Generation) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VRwEDb5JZKJ1R

I've heard people had problems with magnetospeed changing POI.

What do you think about labradar, superchrono or https://www.amazon.com/Competition-Electronics-538002-SSI-ProChrono-Chronograph/dp/B0028MTBJ4 ?

bipod

throw lever

I really hate when people use the most vague comments for information.