(Part 2) Top products from r/macrogrowery

I would just build your own dude. All those aero cloner things are is a manifold with (x) amount of holes drilled in and (x) amount of mister heads, a decent submersible pump, a container with a lid (or manufacture a lid to fit out of Styrofoam or something similar! Bonus here is you also get inserts to stick the clones in safely) Create a manifold to fit your container. Make it a capital H shape sort of like this.In the middle of the 'H' use a Tee so you can make the connection to the pump. Tap the holes, for this application you could just find some screws with similar threading and drill/remove the manifold to tap for the misters. Connect the manifold to the pump and stick it to the bottom of the container, then fill with water (can use light nutrient solution) right up UNDER the manifold, not over it. While your pump soaks for a second, cut holes in your lid. (or cut lid to fit if using foam) Remember to make a little slot for the pump cord! Give the pump a test run AWAY FROM STUFF YOU WANNA KEEP DRY! Make sure all the misters are spraying good and not leaking (at least not too bad, no need to be mega perfect here) Then just get your clones ready! I know lots of guys that just use the insulation squares(rock wool) and just make the lid holes to fit them. I personally like the foam approach as is just feels better for me and i feel like it will give less problems with mold and other yuckies. I like to top it off with a light cabinet handle right in the middle so you can easily lift the lid (I just basically stole the handle from countless other aero cloners please dont sue me clone king lol) With this method you can make many smaller cloners or some bigger ones just dial up on the pump GPH! Just my opinion, many smaller ones might be easier to work with as youd have all the separation you need for organizing! Happy cloning bud!

This: http://www.amazon.com/Ecological-Labs-AEL20036-Mosquito-Treatment/dp/B007UTE55A

It's BTi, which is the same as Gnatrol, and Mosquito dunks and all that.

But it's cheap, in liquid form, and totally bacteria based and safe.

I use it with every watering in every res, along with hanging yellow sticky traps to catch adults, and so you know how things are going.

It works very well and is easier to use than mosquito dunks in my opinion, and more effective.

There are dedicated solutions- I know because I have seen them installed, but I haven't ever had to use them myself. That being said...in the short-term 'til you find a purpose built solution, I would go with, or build, a 120v (or 240, if that's your flavor) commercial relay box running off of a short-period timer like this one. A good electrician could put one together for your specified voltage and amp load. Picture a flip flop hub, but with only one side, so it carries all of the current and allows you to use a low-amperage timer to control it. The only problem I could see is that you would have no redundancy- so, find the very best possible timer.

A high Nitrogen fertilizer is good for vegetative growth and should treat you well until Early to Mid-august. At that time you will want to stop with that and start with a bloom fertilizer or a fertilizer for tomatoes. Something like this would even work: http://www.amazon.com/Jobes-6028-50-Pack-Vegetable-Fertilizer/dp/B001D11M9S?ie=UTF8&keywords=tomato%20fertilizer&qid=1465316034&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7

Your current fertilizer should have instructions on the bag of how to feed it properly. I would probably start with a half dose as the 24 N is fairly high and you don't want to burn your ladies. You can always add more, removing fertilizers from soil is nearly impossible.

I pulled my drips out every week to change the res, since I had my plants on a tray that was over the res and a bucket that it drained off into.
I got something like this from the hydro store and put it on top of the coco, ran a couple drip lines to each tray and used stakes at the edge of the pot to hold the drip lines in place.

The guy at the hydro store that walked me through it, says he waters up to 6 times a day in late flower.
You have to up the water quantity a bit as well, to prevent salt buildup. I was aiming for 30% runoff, but I feel like my estimation of runoff was little better than a guess lol.

I kind of thought the whole thing was a pita though, and gave the plants to my cousin who transplanted them to soil.
I like DWC.

JBJ True Temp 1000w Titanium Heater
They bring 275g totes up from low 50's to 68.0 in a couple of hours with a good pump running, I imagine 5-6 hours would take care of your tanks (unless feed water is extremely cold).

My advice to you is to get yourself a good book, like this one :https://www.amazon.com/Marijuana-Growers-Handbook-Complete-Cultivation/dp/0932551467/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=

Read it cover to cover - it'll give you a well rounded education if you pay attention. Everything else can be learned on the job

First walk into a couple of your local filtration shops as they are used to dealing with your local water and they know the problems.

You can also just have a look at amazon and get something like this- https://www.amazon.com/APEC-Certified-Drinking-Water-RO-90/dp/B00HRHHFPW That is rated for 90 gallons a day. Realistically 60 is probably pushing it but whatever. Use a toilet tank float valve on your reservoir or barrel to auto shut off when it is full.

But you don’t need the faucet or the pressure tank. Just run continuous flow.

You may want to buy a much higher rated system so you are not constantly changing filters or maybe also add a very large 5 micron pre-filter before this system to catch more crud and particles before these small filters do. Many stages of progressively finer filters is smart.

If you have a little more budget look at something like this- https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-31023-Evolution-RO1000-system/dp/B004LNUNKE

Do you have any experience with this product? Their extraction method is done without acids or heat. My plants always liked it but I’m always curious as to what other growers think of a product.
https://www.amazon.com/KelpMax-Liquid-Seaweed-Concentrate-Liter/dp/B009YLY782/ref=sr_1_6?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu_ikzKrk4wIVDxgMCh2Z3gAdEAAYASAAEgIVMfD_BwE&hvadid=178327924214&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9017275&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=239992073161923120&hvtargid=kwd-77540232039&hydadcr=22377_9728825&keywords=kelpmax&qid=1564753924&s=gateway&sr=8-6

56 plants doesn't really give too much information on how much bud you plan to process at a time. For me, I like to use this mechanical scale zeroed out with my 5 gallon bucket on it. I fill about 2.5-3 pounds of bud in each bucket for storing/long cure.

The Sun System PAR meter with remote sensor is the industry standard and incredibly inexpensive tool; https://www.amazon.com/Sun-System-Meter-Remote-Sensor/dp/B007XR62FK. FC and lumens refer to wavelengths within the visible spectrum that are not effectively used in plant growth. Similarly bulbs designed to produce more lumens may shy away from amplifying the photosynthetically active radiation that plants use.

You're basically asking how do I measure green, I have a device that measures red and white. You need a device that measures green to measure the right amount of it.

https://www.amazon.com/GDEALER-Digital-Kitchen-0-001oz-Stainless/dp/B01E6RE3A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=.00+scale&qid=1559174983&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VI6ZUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uqrODb4W70C1B

just throw some razorblades on this

https://www.amazon.com/Cannabis-Grow-Bible-Definitive-Recreational/dp/1931160589

book suggestion: plants from test tubes

no worries. . i had the same problem.... got a 7 disc ultra sonic humidifier from amazon.... rigged up in a 20 gallon tote with float valve and 120cm computer fan blowing air from the room through the tote back into the room this