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Get yourself a good build surface if you don't already have one. BuildTak works pretty well but there are plenty of options now. Don't mess with things like hairspray or plastic slurry, they are messy and a waste of time. Just google '3d printer build surface'. You can also just stick with Kapton tape on the 2x, that works fine too but It's not as durable, you'll be replacing it much more often and it really depends if you want to print in ABS or PLA.

I own a Replicator 2 and one of the 2X clones from Monoprice and have used a Flashforge creator, all are basically the same printer. As long as you have the upgraded extruder which most of them came with after the first Makerbot Rep 2 year and a good build surface, you don't likely "need" anything else.

If you do plan on doing a lot of printing though, get yourself a nice set of build removal tools. I use a cheap square headed exacto knife, the more flexible the better but it takes a little bit of practice to not cut your build plate that way. The other options are small spatula with very thin, sharp front edge. I have a kit like this one https://www.amazon.com/Synkia-Print-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01IMWL1HS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291918&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&psc=1 that works ok as well.

Also you might want to pick up some small end mills/PCB cutting bits to use for cleaning the nozzle. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/3-175mm-Carbide-Engraving-CNC-Machinery/dp/B00SMDOUPS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291965&sr=8-6&keywords=pcb+mill Make sure they are smaller than the diameter of your nozzle before you buy them.

Take your time, get to know the machine, don't go nuts trying to upgrade it until you find out where your pain is. That generation of printer can be hit or miss, either its the best darn thing you've ever owned or... you have a lot of pain. Newer versions of that design should work great out of the box but if it's a machine from the first release year without any upgrades it will have problems.

Good Luck.

We use a metal craft spatula that works pretty great and as a bonus it can't slice an artery.

The one we've used lately is from Cricut: http://www.amazon.com/Cricut-29-0099-Spatula-Tool/dp/B000NP1ESO

http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Nylochem-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B000R886HO

So something like this? Including shipping, Makerbot wants $35 for two tubes (since a 2x needs two), so 100 feet of the stuff from Amazon is a better deal and I can have a few hot spare tubes to make filament changes go easier.

I don't know the solution but it sounds like the extruder thermistor is not giving you the right temp (too high), so the logic board is constantly sending the "cool down" command.

Note /u/digitallis question. If you're getting super high readings, it would confirm my diagnosis. I did find the thermistor replacement on Amazon. Note that it is bare-wire at the board end. I have no experience replacing this part.

Edit: Added part link
Edit2: two ls in other commenter

Just print out Whosawhatsis MK7 replacement or Makerbot's version and see if that works for you. Here's the spring and you can easily find bearings at Amazon as well.

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Gaffer Tape and place on the printing surface(Tray). It helps the first layer of a print adhere to the surface much better. I used to struggle with starting a print almost every time but after I started using the tape I haven't had a problem since.

Yes. I ordered the Tri-flow, but there are others as well.

I had this happen with a composite filament. I did all that I could to try and unclog the nozzle but I was unable to.

What ended up doing was purchasing an aftermarket nozzle set as well as a new heat barrier tube. This would be cheaper than getting an entire new hot end, as long as your other components work out.
Here is my thread on my issue: Here

I also ordered nozzle cleaning bits from amazon after the fact, which I have not used yet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PXETKUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure to get the largest Blue Tape Sheets available to get the highest amount of surface area sticking to the plate. The only source I have found for getting more of the tape sheets included with the Replicator 2 is on Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBDJUK

We had a ton of problems until we did two things:

• Change tape for Kapton tape. This stuff creates such an amazingly smooth bottom and sticks really well.
  
• Spray a thin layer of Aquanet hair spray on the plate before each print
  
  Doing those two things, we have almost no warping or lifting at all, and when we do, simply turning on rafts typically solves everything.

1 - could be the extruder mechanism. I would replace the stock with something like this:
2 - could be clogged
3 - Yes - sounds like it could be the harness. The 2/2X have a stupid design where x- axis wire is held in place by metal pin, that or the flexing makes it go bad. Try wiggling while running to see if you can duplicate problem. The harness is stupid design as every stepper, endstop, etc goes to one connector on MB. After waiting forever for MB to send new one, they sent one with all the legs cut to wrong length. I ended up making my own which was better anyway. I found this site which got me started. http://www.extrud3d.com/x-harness

It took a while to figure out what I needed. Part numbers:

Digi-Key: CI16N-5-ND, MC16M-10-ND, HKC14S-ND, HKC16S-ND

Mouser: 538-16-02-0114, 538-70107-0038, 538-89400-0620, 538-16-02-0096, 538-50-57-9404, 538-50212-8000-CT, 538-87369-0600

Crimpers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall the 2X has been a struggle since the day I got it but I do have it printing pretty well now. I installed metal x ends and cooling block from Carl Raffles - worth every penny and I can successfully print PLA now.
https://shop.raffle.ch/

If installing Carl's block, use these extruders: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:256754

$6 fix, prime. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E913IJK/

Yeah, this has come up a few time in recent post on /r/makerbot and /r/3dPrinting.

Heat up the extruder using unload filament. When it gets to temp pull the extruder and see what plastic you can get off. Use gloves, those fins are hot. Rinse and repeat. Most likely you'll need to replace the insulation on the heater block. Fargo3d has it on amazon.

I purchased this to help pry stubborn rafts off the build plate.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.ca/Hardline-Products-Scraperite-Plastic-Blades/dp/B0022ZI0JY&ved=0ahUKEwiLzPfUm8TWAhVL64MKHZiAAx4QFggtMAA&usg=AFQjCNEHBSUY2An-XdlrlzJ0VXhlmuxwuQ

I use a Stainless Steel .005" feeler gauge. I have an incredibly low failure rate.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065UXZQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

A credit card is too thick and not flat enough.

Thanks. I'm in the US and am a member of the local hackerspace but unfortunately the only one who attempted to build a reprap failed. The failed unit is at our hackerspace.

Is this the one you are talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/Printrbot-Simple-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B00IZYL7IW

Is this really going to be easier to use than the pre-assembled Makerbot?

Thanks