(Part 2) Top products from r/mazda

I've taken it camping off onto dirt and not-so-smooth roads several times. Twice pulling a pop-up camper. It performs admirably. Since it's a Mazda, the ride is kind of rough when you get off the well-beaten path, so you have to take it easy, but I never worried about getting stuck in the mud as long as I was paying attention to how deep it was. That being said, always bring short boards and short rope ladders with you to throw down in case you do get stuck. I fit them around my spare tire.

I have a Draw-tite class III hitch on my '13. Took maybe about 45 minutes to install. Hardest part was getting the exhaust hangers off and on, but just took a little encouragement with soapy water. I use a Reese Towpower adjustable ball mount hitch with interchangeable balls that I keep around my spare tire. Works like a charm.

• I love clean things and I want to pickup the CX-5 branded all weather floor mats and cargo tray. Is there a better option?
  
  I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.
  
  
  
• When cleaning the inside I planned to only use a microfiber cloth and/or a slightly damp with warm water microfiber. Is there a better way?
  
  I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.
  
  
  
• Are there any accessories I might not know about that are must haves?
  
  I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"

Second this, but for the sedan. So far I found this:https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-84906-Urethane-Protection-Length/dp/B000PF1PFO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Might help to protect the paint a bit.

I just cleaned the interior of my new 6 with products/techniques from /r/autodetailing. Its a great sub.

For the dash/panels/screen, I brushed dust gently with a horsehair brush (I bought a new shoeshine brush). Spray a little 1z Cockpit Premium on a microfiber cloth and wiped down. Then I wiped again with a dry cloth. Nice clean matte finish, not the super slick & shiny Armor All look. I used Lexol leather cleaner on my leather seats, after brushing the dust off.

Here's the interior cleaner I used, but there are others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z2MZ4?pc_redir=1395735928&robot_redir=1

Always get the scheduled maintenance done that is recommended in the owner’s booklet. Typically, I’ll get my oil change done at the same time because it’s usually every 8,000km/5000 miles. Make sure the mechanic uses 100% synthetic, and not some 50/50 cheap alternative.

For that salt buildup, Krown protectant is worth it. Get that applied at least every second year. In Canada it’s about $130, so in the US it’s probably $75-90. If you’re doing Krown and planning to regularly get a car wash, DO NOT go for the carwash that sprays the underside of the car. This can rinse off the Krown protectant over time.

Since you’re at the 62K mile mark, you can start using Lukas oil stabilizer and Lukas injector cleaner . You wouldn’t need it if you’re under 50k miles, but once the engine gets older it starts to burn oil less efficiently;it’s normal. My mechanic swears by this stuff- and no he doesn’t sell it, he tells me to grab it at the local hardware/automotive supply store, so I know he’s honest.

I would get that CEL checked out. At least repalce the O2 sensor. they are like $30. Also tighten the heat shield on the exhaust header. Its super easy and All the bolts are right there. There is no reason not to replace the O2 sensor.
http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4752-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000IYBFFC

What you're looking for is Redline MTL. Hands down the best fluid for the 2nd gens. You'll want 75w80 on this transmission, in my experience 75w90 causes grinding. Stay away from the "magic" Ford fluid it doesn't work well on the 2nd Gen's. Also, the first number in the oils weight is actually for cold weather not the second number. So 75W80 and 75W90 are the same in that sense.

Products used:

• 303 Aerospace protectant for interior
  
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass for windows, mirrors, etc
  
  
• Chemical Guys waffle weave towel for use with glass cleaning
  
  
• Basic microfibers
  
  
• Mothers Reflections Tire Care for tires
  
  
• Mothers Microfiber drying towel for drying whole car
  
  
• Black and Decker cordless vacuum
  
  
• Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner
  
  
• Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer
  
  
• There's also opticoat on the whole car

I never said they do look better, just that steel is a stronger metal, and as a result of that could be cut into narrower and more interesting designs than aluminum could.

They typically look like what is in the OPs instance, but they can look much better and custom work could be whatever you wanted.

I ordered a low tone horn to compliment the Miata's high tone, and installed it on the other side of the radiator support. I wired mine directly into the OEM horn with no issues. It's twice as loud now and sounds like the horn on a much larger car. I was woried the stock relay/fuse wouldn't handle two horns, but I've had no issue, and I use my horn a lot.

Small air horns are a popular choice due to their high volume and pitch, but where I live it's too cold for air horns to always work, and I don't like the delay air horns have. I still wanted to be able to use my horn to give short toots, not just long blasts.

I think it depends on if you have the navigation system or just the standard radio, but I had the standard radio in mine and I used this to accomplish having an aux cord in my car. It connects as the "EX" mode on your radio. Should be right after FM2.

I have one of these in my 1992 Maxima.

http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BTA6100-100-Watt-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B0002QYSA0

I believe they come in 6", 8" and 10" models.

I just stashed it behind my passenger seat. It was easy to install (just need a simple audio kit with wiring and a fuse) with no prior car audio experience. It is also easily removable if you need the room, all you do is unplug the harness and you're done.

I know this smell. I went through the same thing when i brought my 2017 Mazda 3 home. I opened the hood and check everything.

I can see liquid in the small gaps around the air filter cover. I used cotton swabs to soak up the liquid and check to see what it is.. The dealer used those "engine cleaner" cans under the hood.

​

I guess is they tried to make it look new for cars that have been sitting for a while.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-FEB1-Foamy-Engine-Cleaner/dp/B000ABGA6W

1. Replace front brake rotors. If the pads are worn significantly or in bad condition, also replace those. Get some Centric Rotors off of Rock Auto, Amazon, or Tirerack. Best price seems to be Amazon at $32/rotor with prime shipping. Centric Parts 120.45068
   
   
2. Could be the motor mounts. Not too familiar with the regular Mazda3, but you might be able to get some cheap stock ones from Mazdaspeed3 guys who replace them with upgraded aftermarket units.
   
   
3. Most likely wheels need to be balanced.
   
   
4. Wiper blades need to be replaced much more often than most people think. I'd get some

It's unlikely they'd spend time doing it, but there are reports of it happening on the AIO forums. Read up on the ID7 and ID7v2 hacks for the issues. Tape a note over the USB ports or block them.

Get yourself a prep pen. It's a sanding pen. Just bought one and going to try it this weekend and use dr colorchip.

https://www.amazon.com/Prep-Pen-Adjustable-Sanding/dp/B000J18RT6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=prep+pen&qid=1558655526&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Also consider applying some Rain-X anti-fog.

Was just looking at a plate mount, and saw your car on an ad

Dye:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHM20M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clear Coat, Basically:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BCQ2JM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dye Applicators:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SNXF1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also used a paint brush for the resolene ,and did 3 coats of the dye(probably depends based on how bad your's is), and Three Coats of the Resolene, and let it dry between each coat and overnight before using it.