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Not bad for a first try.
There are a number of simple casting material pewter can go into but one of the cheapest is plaster. A well made plaster mold will survive several dozen pewter casting if treated properly.

You can buy a 15 or 25 lb bag at the local big box hardware store for under $20, or smaller amounts from an art supply store, though it will cost more per lb.

PLASTER MOLD NEED TO BE BONE DRY BEFORE YOU POUR HOT METAL INTO THEM THEY CAN EXPLODE OTHERWISE. Please wear the proper safety equipment, the bare minimum of a face shield and leather gloves,ideally with an leather apron and leather boots. How long it takes to dry depends upon the size and thickness of the mold and the humidity level . A 3"x 5" x 5" mold will be dry in about 5-7 days if it is not too humid. A way to speed it up is to put your oven on its lowest setting and leave them in there for 8-10 hours. They will be significantly lighter when dry, and will have feel a bit like fired clay.

You might consider making 2 part molds there are a great deal of references out there for that info, here is a video that covers the basics. (this video for clay reproductions but the basics still apply. You would additionally need to also carve or cast in a pouring cup and channel called a gate or sprue into the plaster to allow you to pour in the pewter.)

There is scattered info on mold making on the web, but plenty of solid books on the topics. I would recommend The Prop Builder's Molding & Casting Handbook
It doest talk too much about metal casting, but it covers a lot of the info for general mold making, and is a great resource. You might also look into Practical Casting: A Studio Reference by Tim McCreight is deals with metal casting on smaller jewelry scale and covers other simple molding materials.


I have also heard MDF molds work pretty well for a few trys, though I never have done it personally. Good luck!

I've taught metal casting before and I think I have some relevant experience.

For melting:

• Oxy-propane torch ~300$
  
• Electromelt ~1000$
  
• Crucibles ~20$
  
  Plus other assorted items like regulators, flux, safety gear, ect...
  
  OK! now you can melt aluminum, pewter, nickle silver, brass, bronze, copper, silver, and gold. Next up is figuring out how to cast it into interesting shapes, this is done by using one of the many different types of molds.
  
  

1. Permanent molds, 0-100$. These range from things like muffin tins to graphite molds like these.
   
2. Sand molds, 0-200$. Either dig up your own sand for free or go with the much better option of a Delft clay kit.
   
3. Investment molds, ~$2-10k and facility dependent. Making this leap in budget will open the world of casting up to far more detailed/intricate parts. However, it requires a vacuum system and a kiln. Both can be had for about 1000$ but you get the added benefit of a kiln which is invaluable in jewelry manufacture. But all of this requires yet more space and I don't know what your exact facilities are like.
   
   All items I linked are just me quickly looking things up. Cheaper prices most certainly can be found with more than 5 minutes of googling. This list of equipment is also not exhaustive. I ain't gunna write the whole budget for you so your going to have to look into some more of the details.
   
   There are loads of metal smiths out there on places like Youtube that is worth looking into. There are also books like The Complete Metal Smith and loads of others.

> how much are they?

Yes, you could spend all 9k of that without even blinking. Whatever you spend, expect to double that cost with tooling and things to make your machine do all kinds of different work.

> what are the best manufactures

It's a bit of a mixed bag. If you're looking to buy new, your basic choices are new Asian import or old iron. Standard Modern is Canadian, Emco and Lion is European, and I believe Monarch and Hardringe still make lathes every now and then - all for between $16 and $80k, way out of your price range. CNC won't talk to you unless you're into the 5 digits either.

South Bend is made in Taiwan now, along with Grizzly, Precision Matthews, Baileigh, and others - mostly from the same factories with different paint jobs. They are pretty good machines and can get you started. But the other option is finding an old lathe on Craigslist or through an industrial dealer and getting that going again. A lot of them are still very precise machines that need a little TLC, and if you're diligent in your search, you could end up with an amazing machine for practically scrap metal prices.

> Is it possible to get it down a flight of stairs?

You can get anything down a flight of stairs, whether it's usable at the bottom is the harder question. Unless it's a hobby size lathe, you're not going to be carrying it down. They get really heavy very fast. But with proper precautions, ramps, levers, come-alongs, and chains, people have safely lowered machines weighing half a ton and more into their basements. How much of that you're willing to attempt is on you.

> how easy are they to use

I won't lie, there's a steep learning curve, and you'll never know everything. First step is to get [Machinery's Handbook] (http://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-29th-Erik-Oberg/dp/083112900X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1449544732), look it over, and as confusing as that thing is, it is commonly referred to as THE BIBLE. Otherwise, become a sponge and lurk forums, watch youtube videos, and read up.

If I were you, I'd get as much machine as you can afford, keeping one eye on the used market. Also, I'd look into getting a mill as well, then you'll be practically unstoppable in the shop.

Hey, a few days late, but I’ve been doing a lot of reading on gears and gear cutting, and I’ve found that designing a gear is infinitely more complex than I originally thought. I’ve done a lot of internet research, and my copy of Gears & Gear Cutting by Ivan Law came in the mail the other day, and I’ve read it front-to-back several times now. It’s the Bible for home gear cutting, and after reading it a few times, I’m confident I can make some gears and gear trains at home. I still need a few machines/tools before I can really get started, but I can probably start some simple stuff soon, with what I already have. I am going to try some simple cycloidal gears first. I’ll keep you apprised of my progress if you like.


Again, thanks for your help. I’ll take your comments into consideration when I go to buy some equipment.

For once, I'm actually useful! I just set into this myself and I've found this book to be more than everything I could ever want to know on the subject, with a great bit of information specifically on lost wax. This one by David Gingery (who has several other excellent books for the home foundry) details the basis of the kiln I intend to build much more inexpensively than they can be bought, with the added benefit of being completely scalable to any size of project.

While you're waiting for the books, I can't recommend www.backyardmetalcasting.com enough either. Some of the links are now defunct but there are lifetimes of information there. YouTube, too, I've found found to be a surprisingly good resource when it comes to metal casting.

This was the first book that I read a long time ago.

I thought it was pretty good explaining the parts of a desktop mill (and also lathe) and the various attachments.

Honestly though, watching youtube videos helped me learn much more. There were certain things I just didn't get (for example the purpose of parallel bars) that I had to see in use before I understood.

> a way to hold the thing

I swear, this is like 30% of making jewelry.

> the amount of control you need to not end up with extra long lines everywhere

I think this is the point that most of the replies want to get across. Cutting (engraving) gold is easy. Controlling for the desired results takes lots of practice. It might not be a practical solution for this one piece. But if you're into learning engraving anyway, The Jewelry Engravers Manual is very helpful, as well as [Engraving on Precious Metals] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0719800226/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482234019&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=engraving+on+precious+metals&dpPl=1&dpID=51Xbuo1fMxL&ref=plSrch). Also ask at /r/benchjewelers

I got a 12" square by 2" thick surface plate on Amazon for about 30 bucks with shipping. Best shop purchase in awhile.

EDIT: Can't seem to find the particular one I had, but here's something close. Not quite as accurate as the one I got (came with a cert and everything!). It's extremely useful for sanding things flat, polishing, and measuring accurately. I use it the most for sanding; just throw a bit of water on there and a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper on top. The water sucks the sandpaper down flat. The thinner the paper (usually higher grit), the better it sticks to the plate and the flatter it gets. Can get an almost mirror shine with 2000 grit and just a very very light buffing on aluminum.

Makita LC1230 12" Cold cutting metal saw. Not a true cold saw, but pretty damned close. I've bought the lower end portable band saws and they're fine for rough cuts on light sock - but if you need to cut up a batch of angle iron or steel for welding projects - and you want consistent cuts that don't take all day - you'll LOVE one of these saws. I've had mine for a year and the original blade is still going strong.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230-12-Inch-Metal-Cutting/dp/B00004YOLV

Well if you don't mind puking your brains out for a day or two, by all means weld away bud! BREATHE DEEP! lol Trust me man, don't do it...you will regret it, death is probably favorable over the sickness you will experience.

Just grind off the galvanizing in the area and make sure you are in a well ventilated area and out of the smoke plume. I would probably wear one of these too.

Either of these books are what you need to get started. The complete metal Smith was like a jewelry bible for me. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Metalsmith-Illustrated-Handbook/dp/0871922401/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517803513&sr=8-5&keywords=Lost+wax+casting


https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Casting-Studio-Reference-Revised/dp/096159845X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517803438&sr=8-1&keywords=Lost+wax+casting

is a grizzly like http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9649-12-Inch-Granite-Surface/dp/B0000DD0KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451237818&sr=8-1&keywords=surface+plate good?

and alright. I just read that some people say you shouldnt use "precision tools" for sanding. Whats treating it right? would that just mean not using it as an anvil or throwing it, or do i need to do something to condition it?

There are dozens of casting processes. It depends on what you're trying to do. Is it commercial or hobbyist? Industrial or artistic? Reusable molds or unique molds? Lost foam? Centrifugal? Carbon Dioxide? Green Sand? Bronze? Aluminum? Steel?

Need a little bit more info, but if your paper is just a general overview of casting processes, you should touch on at least Green Sand, Carbon Dioxide, and Lost Foam casting processes.

edit Here are some good resources. If you're at an engineering or technical college, you should be able to dig up a copy of Degarmo's which has an excellent section on commercial casting. Also, your school ought to have the Machinery's Handbook in their online archives. If not, check the libraries. It's got to be there somewhere.

Safety glasses and a big face shield are critical. If I'm grinding a lot or grinding ANY thoriated TIG electrode I'll add a respirator with the pink P100 filter cartridges. Don't forget hearing protection! If you wear earmuffs then behind the neck ones like these will fit with all the other gear.

You need a metal cutting circular saw. They are low RPM and high torque. The Harbor Freight 5 3/8" one does not work as you cannot find a blade that is fine enough for Aluminum anywhere. You need a 7 1/4" 60 tooth blade at least.

This saw on e-bay should work. Use google to find your blade.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/metal-cutting-circular-saw-/151348856713?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233d184789

Frankly, if you have the money, this 14 inch Multi Cutter with a 100 tooth blade will do the job nicely.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW872-14-Inch-Multi-Cutter-Saw/dp/B0000302QS/ref=lp_1026922_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1405138745&sr=1-5

Finish is outstanding with either tool, when you use the right blade.

>The Complete Metalsmith, Tim McCreight, and DO make sure you get the Pro Edition.

The only reason I've been holding off on getting that book is the high-quality 2-star reviews on Amazon. Are they blowing things out of proportion?

>It's not the only metalworking book on my shelf but it's by far the most useful.

...if you had to name one more, what would it be?

Unless you're trying to learn a skill or are working on something truly bizzare, you can generally just buy a screwdriver to do the job for you. This also takes the blame off of you if you're afraid of legal repercussions. Apple's screwdriver.

I'm pretty sure it's legal for personal use- if it wasn't, I'd say it was your duty to break the law! For doing repairs the patent situation might be so terrible that it's against the law, but you're not likely to ever be caught. Probably get into trouble though if you started stamping them out to sell without a license. And Apple has very good lawyers...

Then I would recommend going with bronze or silver. You can get silver for close to $15 an oz at www.apmex.com Get a model of the coin that you want to make and then make a silicone mold of it so you can make multiple wax copies.Read a book on how to do it:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/096159845X/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dykem Steel Blue (or red) Layout Fluid, will be more efficient and cover evenly. It cleans up with acetone. It's available in brush or spray forms.

Dykem Blue Layout Fluid - 8 oz Brush-In-Cap Bottle - 80400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXT3ZWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_H3Lrxb0P0W1ZA

Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment is a good practical book on the subject. Keep in mind that metallurgy involves a lot of physics and chemistry so it's not so easy to study if you don't have a basic knowledge of both. I suggest you start with getting familiar with the steel phase diagram as that's the base for steel metallurgy. Get to know the different phases and their properties. There's also a lot of information you can find online about the subject

http://www.amazon.com/Gas-Burners-Forges-Furnaces-Kilns/dp/1879535203
I highly recommend this book.

http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-5-Point-Pentalobe-Screwdriver-iPhone/dp/B00A0NPPDY knock yourself out, just about any proprietary screwdriver will end up on alibaba or amazon. They aren't hard to make if you have the right equipment. I never heard of any legal hurdles in selling them.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230-12-Inch-Metal-Cutting/dp/B00004YOLV

Buy this and you can thank me later.

I've got one like this. I could have sworn I got it from Harbor freight but they don't show it anymore on their website.

It will do the job just fine, but the handles open really far, so sometimes it's a bit awkward to use.

Basic working spur gears are not hard to make.

you need a tool cut to the correct shape for the number of teeth (i.e. A 20 Tooth gear has a different tooth shape to a 40 tooth gear even though they mesh together)
Commercially made tools look like this: http://www.aliexpress.com/gear-cutter-module_reviews.html

Then the blank is indexed for each tooth and a pass made to leave the appropriate cut.

This book
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gears-Gear-Cutting-Workshop-Practice/dp/0852429118
Gives much greater detail, including how to make your own cutters.

I'd disagree. I think you'd be much happier spending a bit more money on a cold cut chop saw like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW872-14-Inch-Multi-Cutter-Saw/dp/B0000302QS

It's more precise and you get much cleaner cuts.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: this


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Canada|amazon.ca|



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Ditto. Linke to book. Here's another one I liked

Is it a taig machine?

You may find this book helpful:

https://www.amazon.ca/Tabletop-Machining-Approach-Miniature-Machine/dp/0966543300

Also subscribe to clickspring on YouTube.

Here is the mobile version of your link

http://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-29th-Erik-Oberg/dp/083112900X

Everything you will ever need to know!

https://www.amazon.com/Jingrong-Multitool-Backpacking-Adventure-Entrenching/dp/B07M6X4TC6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2IDB75SXVZ2QX&keywords=tactical+shovel&qid=1559105525&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sprefix=tactical+shovel%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Jingrong-Multitool-Backpacking-Adventure-Entrenching/dp/B07M6X4TC6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=jingrong&qid=1559111348&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I'm a band repair tech and work with brass every day. It's a very soft metal and won't take much to achieve the hammered look. The issue is like the other guy said, it will be difficult and meticulous to achieve a uniform look, but it can be done.

Get yourself a light weight dent hammer and practice on a cheap piece of hardware store hobby brass tube.

We use these at work. They will take ten times whatever beating you can dish out. Also this model I know from personal experience can easily cut through a 4x4.

My first choice would be a little vertical bandsaw (e.g. portable bandsaw with table).

My second choice would be an abrasive cut-off wheel.

I have name-brand aviation snips, I find them to be extremely difficult to use on stainless thicker than 24g.

> I recently built a propane forge that most sane people would take one look at and tell me it's just a glorified pipe bomb

LOL. I've also made Porter-style burners and the first time I was thinking, "This shit could kill me..."