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Yes, you should. It looks like bare plastic without them.

For future builds, use a hobby knife (x-acto is fine, I assume you're probably American given the reference to comic-con) to scrape off the stubs to the part where they came off the parts tree. I can see several areas where the fit of the kit could've been improved by cleaning those parts up so they sit flush as they are supposed to.

For paint, I'd probably avoid Humbrol Acrylics (if you're in the US, they're not particularly easy to get) and they're' not great as paint. Tamiya is okay, but it's not great for brushpainting which you seem to want to do. If you have to, you can use this tutorial to see how to do it more effectively: https://zerobxu.wordpress.com/2008/03/10/hand-painting-with-tamiya-acrylics/

If you are just getting started, you might not want to buy an airbrush. In that case, there are two alternatives I can recommend:

1. Spray cans: http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/american-fs-enamel (Model Master Spray Enamels). What you'd be doing is buying the gray or whatever base color of the Snowspeeder, then spraying that (do this outdoors, this stuff is noxious). Similarly, Tamiya makes good spray paint in a can. Long term, this is not an ideal solution. They cost a lot per can and that money is better spent saving up towards an airbrush if you continue building models Detail painting can be brush painted by Tamiya, Model Master, Vallejo, AK, or other branded paints (these are all acrylics.)
   
   
2. Brush painting only:
   If you are only brush painting, see this guide: http://www.finescale.com/how-to/articles/2007/02/basics-of-brush-painting
   
   As for paint, Tamiya is...."okay." It's not great paint to brush and most people don't do very well with it. It's much more suited for airbrushing, but you can do it via the tutorial I referenced above.
   
   An alternative would be to brush paint with Model Master Acrylics, which have very good self leveling properties that make brush strokes a bit less likely (also, for wide areas, use a wide brush, like around 1/4inch or so; if you want brushes, go to an art store like Dick Blick or whatever, and you can find some good ones there for a fairly low price. Look for Golden Talkon (orange/gold bristles) brushes, as they work quite well and are also cheap. They're a synthetic material. But frankly, watercolor and acrylic paint brushes will probably work fine.
   
   If you use Model Master acrylic, be aware, you will need to purchase a can of sprayable primer, because otherwise, that paint will lift off the model as soon as you try to use masking tape to paint straight lines (like those red/gray panels on the snowspeeder.) I recommend a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray-Tamiya/dp/B000BMXRUM. Primer helps give your final paint colors more grip on the final surface.
   
   Then, use Model Master Acrylic, which is brushable, can be thinned with water, and has water cleanup. Enamels require special thinners/mineral spirit and smell bad, but some people like them.
   
   Once you're done painting, you can use stickers, or use the waterslide decals that are included. If you use the waterslide decals, apply/spray/brush a coat of gloss over it.
   
   Here's an example of something I brush painted (on a lark, but again, USE PRIMER) with model master acrylic about two years ago to show what results you can get.
   
   A further description of the steps I went through to get that result with Model Master Acrylic is described in the two threads:
   https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2esizj/fa18e_1144_painted_entirely_with_hairy_sticks/
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzzms/brush_painted_1144_f18e_old_project_not_complete/
   
   
   
3. Re: tomboy/judgment: You shouldn't have to worry about such things and he's probably just as happy to sell you kits anyway. It's a hobby after all (and let's face it, a damn nerdy one).
   
   Additionally, please read the FAQ along the sidebar regarding basic tools, airbrush reviews, and other tips and tricks. Also, lots of tutorials on how to build models can be found on youtube. In your case, I'd be there's probably at least one or two if you just google "bandai 1/48 snowspeeder step by step" or something similar and it'll teach you more than you ever wanted to necessarily know about how to get better at this.
   
   Congrats on your first build, and best of luck. And yes, pick up more models.

It sounds like a great idea. So to start off with, do you know what really interests him? Like Tanks or planes or ships, military, civilian, what sort of era (like ww1/ww2/coldwar etc). Tanks is a bit of a wide pool!

In general, Tamiya is often a very good place to start. The kits are pretty easy to put together, they fit really well, look nice when done, have clear instructions and not too many parts. For tanks I would say a 1:35 scale tank is probably the best bet, tanks come in really 4 scales, 1:16 (absolutely monstorously huge), 1:35 (pretty much the standard scale, around 15 cm long or so), 1:40 or 50 something (used for war gaming stuff) and 1:72 teeny tiny tanks. Of the tanks I've built recently, the Tamiya amx-13 1:35 was pretty nice.

Kit aside, you'll be wanting to get him some tools (if he doesnt have any). As far basics I would say; 1) A pot of plastic glue, I recommend the tamiya extra thing (this stuff), a pair of cutters for getting parts off the sprue (I really like the pointy nose ones like this, a pair of tweezers (if he has some lying around they'll do to start with), something to sand pieces with (some use sandpaper, I use sanding sponges, some use sanding sticks), a couple of brushes (small detail and wide flat are what I use the most) and once you've decided on a kit maybe a pots of paint. On the paint front, again I would just default to tamiya acryllic 17ml pots to start with (and buy him some thinner, those paints are like treacle).

As another option, there are some really nice kits by bandai which dont really need any glue and dont have to be painted (look better with both in my opionion) but they are fundamentally click together. Their starwars line of kits are especially great in my view if thats something he likes.

If you have a local modelstore I would go talk to them. Places like hobbycraft carry models but they arent particularly helpful in my expience. If you dont have a hobbystore near you, then the websides I dfefault to are emodels.co.uk (very nice to navigate website, a little expensive), hannants (god awful website design, but they stock basically everything under the sun), wonderlandmodels.co.uk (somewhere inbetween, I have had some poor service from them but most people seem fine), amazon (be very careful with prices, there arent many model supplies on there and the stuff that is seems to get uppriced by bots to silly levels) and ebay (if you find something you really want its often on there for a good 20% cheaper than elsewhere, especially older cheaper kits).

You can get a decent, but pretty basic kit for $80 (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451448207&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=airrbrush+kit)

I have no experience with that airbrush, so I cannot speak of its quality. My recommendation is to buy the Iwata Neo from Hobby Lobby or Michaels. 50% off coupons are pretty easy to come by, so you could get it for $50-$60.

If you do that, you will need a compressor. The TC-20T (http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451448428&sr=8-2&keywords=tc20t) is a good compressor that is pretty quiet and has a tank.

Personally, I have a Badge 105 Patriot and I just use a noisy Campbell-Hausfield compressor. I just got these for Christmas and am still experimenting with it before I paint a model.

I wish the best of luck to you!

I also use Winsor Newton Series 7 kolinsky sable hair brushes like this. I’ve a few sizes and use them for mini painting. They are excellent brushes but aren’t cheap. I have a huge mixture of brushes, my secondary brushes are these ten brushes by Army Painter. They are excellent value for money for decent sable brushes imo.

One thing to consider though is not just spending large money on brushes it’s also keeping them clean and looking after them. I use to go through brushes fairly swiftly but started to pay some attention to cleaning them more thoroughly and they last longer. Firstly I’d recommend two water pots on your desk, one for the heavy clean/rinse and then a second for finishing. Clean your brush regularly even if you’re using the same colour to prevent paint drying on the brush. Never fill the brush to the metal ferrule. Always thin your paints. After a painting session take your brushes to a sink and wash with warm water and a decent brush soap. That soap is excellent.

Seriously considering getting an airbrush since brush painting is my least favorite part of modeling lol. I have a large stand up compressor but it doesn't have a moisture trap. Price wise to get everything I need to use my current compressor I could get this set for a little less money. I'd get a better brush down the road if I I liked airbrushing but would this be a decent starting set or should I just save up a little more and hope I enjoy it lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1486139264&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

Ok, I've seen a lot of answers to your questions, but don't over-think this hobby. You don't need a bunch of fancy tools or other stuff. Eventually, if you stick with the hobby long enough, you'll amass everything, but don't go out and buy it all at once. I'm not going to go back and answer everything because a lot of people already gave you good answers, but I will add my two cents to some of your questions.

When it comes to an airbrush and air supply, you don't need a $150 brush and $200 compressor. I use a Neo for Iwata and this compressor. A little over $100 for my entire airbrushing set-up. It's worked flawlessly for me for the past two years. And I don't spray in a booth. I spray in my basement with a fan on wearing a mask made for paint. The mask came in a set of 2 from Lowes for $11.

When it comes to Future, I don't recommend it any more as I've found it to be inconsistent. If you want a good clear coat with consistent finishes, stick with Tamiya X-22. I thin it with Mr. Leveling Thinner.

With weathering, I mainly use AMMO or AK weathering products. They are pretty straightforward. You can view the techniques for each individual product in AMMO's catalog. They clean up with mineral spirits or any other enamel thinner.

When it comes to scratchbuilding, you can get sheet styrene here, but you really don't need it unless you plan on making an entire plane or boat from nothing. I've had a single sheet that has lasted me for years. Most scratchbuilding can be done with old copper wire that lays around. Strip some wire out of any old electronic device and you have a stash.

These are the mats you asked about. Their basic function is to protect your bench, but they also work well for cutting tape on and basic measurements. Some of them have different patterns on them for different things.

Did you get a small one like this, or maybe similar but with a tank? I've got the tanked version and yeah, it gets pretty warm after 30-60 minutes of spraying. Without the tank, the compressor will run non-stop and is going to build up some heat. At least with the tank, it cycles on and off. I think that's just the nature of the beast. Set up a fan to blow across the pump cylinder head and let the compressor rest from time to time if it concerns you. I wish I could tell you not to worry about it at all (maybe they're built for continuous abuse), but I try to play it safe with mine. In short, yes, I have the same experience.

My best guess would be to use a thinner for that type of glue, if one is available. If one isn't, you might need to just gently flick and peel them off or softly sand them down. Wish I could give a better answer :(

Also, I'd recommend making the jump to cement glue as it creates very small seams that can be sanded down to near invisible levels with some patience and a delicate hand. Though if the model kit is of a good quality, you probably wouldn't need to. Tamiya example on Amazon. An example of a model maker using that type of glue. He also gives great tips throughout his videos, if you find yourself a fan of his.

You're going to find that you can either get some decent gear upfront for a realistic price, or you can go cheap and have to replace poorly performing gear almost immediately, which is the expensive way to go. These items below come in within your listed budget and will give you good service for years.

Get a compressor with a tank. Those cheap air compressors may save you thirty dollars upfront, but you're really going to regret having that on-demand-only air pressure bobbing up and down and screwing up your air flow. This Master TC-20T is a good buy. Get the TC-40T for twenty dollars more if you're going to want to do other types of spray paint art in the future. This one has more endurance before heating up. I own one of these and they are quality gear at a good price.

Get a decent starter air brush. This Iwata Neo Dual Action is good for a starter and yet isn't too expensive so if you screw it up you won't break the bank. At the same time, the machining of the parts is much, much better than those cheap Master sets which really aren't good at all. Granted, you may get lucky and get a good-yet-cheap Master air brush, but more likely than not, you'll spend most of your time trying to get the thing to give you a spray without splatter.

Get a quick release coupling set for the airbrush. Having to use a wrench to attach the air brush gets old really, really fast -- like immediately -- and the ten or so bucks makes it a great deal. Iwata-Medea Quick Disconnect Set

And for another 20 bucks, you can get the deluxe kit with 3 airbrushes.. I bought this and have been very happy with it. Like the others said, it's a good starter kit. My only complaint is not having a header tank for air; oh, and the "regulator" doesn't do much. It seems like the pressure is double for the first second, so I always shoot some air off to the side before making a pass on what I'm painting.

Another great investment in cheap Chinese stuff is the spray booth: this setup is one of my favorite hobby investments. You can replace the filter with any decent filter floss - this stuff for aquariums works great.

Heres a link to the airbrush kit I started with. I got good results with the 2 gravity feed brushes it comes with. Im still using the air compressor with the Iwata brush I upgraded to:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1517488015&sr=1-6&keywords=airbrush+kit

Personally, I like Tamiya branded supplies. Their kits have great details and Ill also use their masking tape, primer, and paints. I like acrylic paint in general since its easy to clean i.e. wash everything out in the kitchen sink with water.

For clear coating, Ive used testors dullcote and glosscote and had good results over Tamiya paint except for when I spray too much at once with the rattle can. For that reason Im thinking of switching to Mr. Color super clear so I can use it with my airbrush and have more control and a finer mist.

I use Microset & Microsol with my decals

Vallejo acrylic putty is easy to use. Model Master cement (for thicker more viscous applications) and Tamiya extra thin cement for the fine detail work. Tamiya line accent color (black or brown) for my panel lining. I wipe it off with testors enamel thinner.

For weathering pigments, MIG products work well or you can DIY by scraping artist pastels and using the dust created.

Finally, most of my small tools (knife, chisel/scraper, tweezers) are branded "excel". I think that is just the brand my local hobby store happens to sell.

There are of course many more options for materials/supplies that work great for modelling but this is just a sampling of the brands that I use on my kits.

Seconding the above. I have this kit

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Compressor-The/dp/B001TO578Q/

The compressor seems a little nicer than the one above, but its the same brush. I can second everything said above about the brush, its definitely not as good as a higher end one. The thing is, it is a great starter set.

My advice on buying tools is: Buy a cheap one first. If you end up using it enough/wearing it out, then its a good time to upgrade to the higher end one. The nice thing about that kit is you can switch out the brush for a more expensive one, and keep the compressor.

The filter mask is probably good for a start. Some people recommend masks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB

I built a kind of mostly-effective spray booth thing from 2x2s and plastic sheeting with an exhaust fan, but I think my fan is too small to be very useful so mostly it just protects my table. A respirator mask should be good enough, though, and I'll probably pick one up soon myself.

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing


Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.


mostly everything


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Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

> Is it likely that inhaling the VOCs in the paint caused any damage?

Yes. There is a really damn good reason why every bottle of paint says to only use in well ventilated areas, and that's because both because inhaling VOC's, and inhaling literally anything other than air is pretty bad for your lungs.

Stop working in poorly ventilated spaces. If you can't find a better space, get a spray booth for about $100. If you absolutely, positively cannot work in a better space or get a spray booth, get a respirator with VOC cartridges. Should only cost like $20. The respirator is a last ditch effort to keep your brain and lungs intact, and is far from the ideal solution.

But it's better than inhaling VOC's all day.

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

I'll be honest and say I got a similar kit from Amazon. Compressor works great the airbrush... not so much. I ended up just buying a Iwata Revolution. If you can afford it I'd recommend this compressor as it has a storage tank and then get a better airbrush. Just my opinion though.

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

looks like a great place to get work done! My only suggestion is that you upgrade to a respirator rated for organic vapors. That'll protect you from inhaling toxic fumes, which a dust mask can't do. I even use it when I have to glue or use certain putties.

this is the one I use, and refill cartridges are only like $8 a pop! They last a loooong time.

It's called Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish in the US, and goes by various names around the world. Walmart carries it, costs around $6 for a bottle that could clear coat hundreds of models.

It also works pretty well on floors :)

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493385925&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care

It would depend on how large an area of painting you’re doing. If you’re doing let’s say a model car body, you’d have to it in coats. So you’ll have to research how to paint brush coats with Tamiya paints since I’m sure you’ll have to thin the paint to some degree. And for priming, Tamiya sells them in spray cans. . As well as other other colors .

You don’t have to buy the sprays on amazon of course. Check with your local hobby stores and see if they’ve got them. I know my local Hobby Lobby carries the primer cans.

Hope this helps, bud. Good luck.

Future is used rather often as a clear coat. A bottle of the stuff will effectively last a lifetime.

Concerning decal solutions, either one should be fine. I've used both microsol/set or Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, depending on how cooperative the decals are.

For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.

On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.

EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.

Awesome, thanks for the info. And yeah I don't have a compressor so I'm looking for a combo if possible. I found this one that seems to have pretty good reviews so I may give it a try. Do you think this would be too cheap or should I just suck it up and invest more in something good. I don't want to buy a piece of crap that will break in a month or not do what I need it to do. Thanks so much for the help.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

Edit: This is another one I was looking at that seems like a better quality airbrush but it's more expensive, which I don't mind paying if it makes that much of a difference http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEEWX4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

I use acrylic paints so I use my airbrush to seal it with Pledge Ultimate Floor care (Used to be called Pledge with Future and is much cheaper at Lowe's than Amazon) acrylic sealer. I then add my decals and weathering then spray the entire model with the varnish I will be using. Either glass, matte, or satin.

The major modeling paint companies all have good top coat and varnish options out. Also, check out some videos on YouTube. There are some great resources out there too.

Cool! Solid budget, I think.

I recommend the Iwata Revolution airbrush with a Master Airbrush compressor and spray booth. I have these 3 items and I absolutely love them so far.

You've done a great job, especially considering it's your first and you chose an airplane - they're generally a little more difficult than armor. Is that a Typhoon? What's next in your build queue?

Like another commenter here said, before applying decals, put down a gloss coat. I've found that [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this work well. After getting the decals on, then seal them in with another coat, and you can do your weathering without worrying about damaging them. You might want to use Microsol or Markfit when doing the decals - those solutions soften the decal and you don't get the "draping" effect over little surface details. Just be careful and test with the least important decals first, some kits have really thin decals that get destroyed. Other kits have thick decals that need repeated applications of Markfit strong to soften.

Ok cool, because I am on amazon and I found a airbrush kit with compressor for 50$ USD, I was wondering if that would be a good one, Here I will link it,
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-KIT-VC16-B22-Portable-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502147107&sr=8-6&keywords=airbrush+and+compressor+kit+psi

do you know any good airbrush kits i should buy ? if so plz lmk

That is a pretty shitty airbrush.

1. It is single action which means you have to adjust the nozzle to get the spray pattern needed for the paint viscosity you have. It's OK for "I just dont want to use rattlecans"-use. But you will not get much of the benefits a proper dual action airbrush will give you. Which means you will soon grow out of it and spend money on a dual action airbrush.
   
   
2. Siphon feed airbrushes like this one also requires higher pressure to operate. Which usually isn't a deal breaker if you have a noisy shop compressor or such. It just means the compressor have to work a little more.
   
   
3. Siphon feed airbrushes are a pain to clean compared to gravity fed airbrushes. You can of course have a jar of cleaner handy and just spray it through the airbrush once done. But you'll end up with a bunch of jars of paint and jars with cleaner that you will have to switch between. Which leads us to #4
   
   
4. All those jars of paint will have its contents exposed to air, either when transferring from the original container to an airbrush jar and/or when you switch tops on the jar you connect to the airbrush. Which leads to paint drying out in the jars and constant fiddling with pressure and the needle adjustment.
   
   
5. Did I mention you'll need a jar for every single hue you want to paint? It's great if the connector screws onto your paint jars, but if you want to shoot Humbrol enamel paint and then some Tamiya you will need separate jars to store the paint. Which means more money spent on jars for an airbrush you will grow out of really quick.
   
   
6. As u/windupmonkeys wrote. It's a re-branded cheap airbrush with God knows what connections (looks like Paasche or some similar proprietary connection on the picture) and parts. Which leads down a pretty boring rabbit hole when you need to find spares or connections to compressors.
   
   For €10-15 more you can get yourself a much better airbrush such as the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra or the Iwata Neo.
   
   tl;dr: Buy quality, cry once.

I can't remember if this is the compressor I have or not, but there's a ton of clones just like it at varying price ranges. Whichever clone I've got has served me pretty well

There is an old saying--When you buy good tools you cry once when you pay for them. When you buy cheap tools you cry every time you try to use them.

Even if it means saving up for awhile, get a decent quality brush. I'd recommend this one:

https://www.amazon.com.au/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540931870&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+airbrush

You'll also need a compressor or other air source, and a few accessories which make things easier (a stand to hold the brush upright, a spray-out pot, stuff like that) but often you can make those accessories yourself.

Research, research, research--that's the key. There are lots of online videos where people review various brands and show how to use and maintain them, by all means watch all the videos you can find.

Good luck!

I found a kit on amazon for around 80 bucks. It came with a compressor and three types of airbrushes.
PointZero Airbrush Dual Action Airbrush Kit with 3 Guns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8mMivZb67PArw
It's not top quality, but I've been happy with it, and it comes with a DVD that has tons of useful info for a beginner on it.

A favorite of mine and a lot of people on this sub is Tamiya Extra Thin Cement: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478116000&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+extra+thin+cement

This stuff is great for small parts, it has a very small applicator brush built in. The regular Tamiya Cement is also good stuff, it just has a bigger brush and is much thicker. The regular cement is more for larger pieces.

How much is too pricey? My airbrush is technically a "beginner's" airbrush, but it's just as good as a "professional" one and it cost about $45 on Amazon. If you're interested, here's the link for it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF0MW9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A lot of people like to think that using non-toxic acrylics means you don't have to worry about air safety. Inhaling atomized paint down to your lungs is just as deadly as any other kind of paint. Get yourself a good respirator whether you get a booth or not. Just make sure the filter cartridges you get are for organic vapors, like these.

For a beginner, I'd recommend the eclipse instead of the sotar since it's easier to clean, I also recommend this compressor instead

Ah gotcha. Yeah I'm looking at this one and similar. Reports and videos are that it's about the noise level of a small fan, sort of. Which to me is acceptable. Has the auto on-off and moisture trap too. Can totally see the appeal of CO2 only though -- zero noise is better than a little noise, right? :)

My compressor recently died and I was looking for a cheaper one as well. The guy at my local hobby shop talked me into a Paasche D500SR which was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I am extremely happy with it. Very quiet and solid flow. You can probably find one on Amazon for about $120

You can also get portable spray booths with exhaust hoses as well, very handy and quick to set up

I'd never painted a model before let alone used an airbrush. For $46 shipped you can get this full setup on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrushing-MAS-Airbrush-Compressor-The/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397875060&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush

It's not a Badger or Iwata but I found it very easy to use and clean.

I bought this one off Amazon and it’s been pretty solid with similar results to OP.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IV9zDbSK29XA9

I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (the gravity feed one, and not the CN knockoff) and it works pretty good. My nozzle clogs up every now and again if I've got my thinning slightly off but otherwise, no major problems yet. I ended up picking up the compressor that was discussed here on the wiki and it works pretty well so far, and it's quiet enough that you can't hear it in the room next door. I live in a townhouse so that was really important for me. As with anything though, see what works for you and read reviews. This Amazon link is the exact one that I bought (and according to honey, its about 30% now than it was a month ago, so good time to buy lol).

Brushes whatever you need, I use a lot the 0, 3/0 and 10/0 all round tipped but this depends on how you paint. A lot of people here (in other posts) mentioned Winston and Newton series 7 if I remember well, I use davinci and vallejo ones. The best bristle is from kolinsky sable.

About having the same brush repeated for each type of paint is kinda retarded but if you feel like doing it go ahead.

What you really need if you want them to last is this
. Just google it and there're a ton of vids on how to use it (not hard but just in case)

Get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369299692&sr=8-1&keywords=spray+booth

Real great with the vent tubing, just get it out a window or something.

It's irritating that the price is higher for essentially the same thing but this guy is equivalent IMO ... that said - I'm only linking to it because you asked, I am a novice like yourself but have been looking long and hard at these units and chimed in to hopefully save you some of the time I've wasted ;)
I am not actually endorsing it or telling you to buy it, caveat emptor, read the reviews etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-COMPRESSOR-Training-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU

Use good glue like the kind that comes with a precision applicator or a liquid glue for joining shell halves or panels. Watch a few youtube videos on gluing.

Do not use the crappy tube glue.

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

Thanks for the advice. What do you think of the bundle in the link? I know the brand isn't one of the ones you mentioned, but I could always upgrade the airbrush for a better one down the road...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=9N42YJE03619&coliid=I2ETE9282U88W7

I use this one.

Some are dual action (like the one linked), some are single action, some have wider spray areas -- this is a pretty good airbrush tutorial (part 1 of 3).

Since returning to the hobby, I haven't had many weeks when I didn't pick something up.

holy tools Batman!

Starting from the top right we have:

RB Productions handle bender (I don't build armor!)
RB Productions parallel bending jig
RB Productions angled bending jig
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS dual action airbrush
RB Productions R10 photoetch bending tool
Iwata airbrush cleaning station
RB Productions Scribe-R file (3 scribers)
RB Productions Nano saws set
Sticky pencil (not pictured)
Spray booth (not pictured) http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422474906&sr=8-2&keywords=spray+booth

it's been a fun few months.

Tamiya make a good Willys Jeep - the more recent version is item # 35219. Amazon link. Get him some Tamiya extra thin cement, an x-acto knife, and consider a starter set of model paints. For brush painting I suggest Vallejo Model Color paints - basic colors for the jeep would be something like black, white, olive drab green and a brown.

Rancor gives some good advice. I've only started modeling for only over a year but I don't know how I would paint a kit without an airbrush. Iwata Neo and this Compressor is what I've been using and it has been working really well.

Tamiya is acrylic which is better for airbrushes as it is pretty thin and dries incredibly fast so it allows for some really cool stuff with layers! I’m on mobile but I’ll try to link the airbrush here: Master Airbrush Set

I have This Compressor and it has worked great so far. I also have a badger 150 that I use with it. I have done 1/350 ships with it however not for a while. I mainly focus on 1/35 tanks and sometimes 1/48 aircraft.

Only things I'd add would be plumbers tape (your compressor of hose might have a leaky seal - it's common) and Tamiya's spray stand (very useful for supporting sections of larger kits and turning them).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080DIWE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_Kk6oxb0KT3EX6

What are you planning to use the brushes for? Because those are pretty bad brushes! But then if it's just for mixing paint, they'll be fine.

When I bought my airbrush paint, I also bought a string of lava beads:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9F7DFM/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdo_Sp6oxb0D2P5FA
Just drop one or two into your paint bottles and shake. They're cheap and non-metallic so they don't rust in water based paints.

The equivalent compressor in the US is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Read through all the comments - the screws and seals on the compressor piston have to re checked and tightened for best results, but it works well and it's very quiet. Harbor Freight probably has an equivalent.

The compressor is branded different in Australia but this is it. https://www.amazon.com.au/Yescom-Compressor-Pressure-Regulator-Spray/dp/B075LGDC2W/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539471741&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Tc-20t+compressor
And it seams the brush is a little more on amazon in australia but it is worth every penny and the cheapest quality airbrush around.
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B004INERK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2N62VVHJVF9PO&psc=1

This stuff right here.

Just use it in a well ventilated area and don't apply it to parts you've' painted cause it'll eat that paint like it wasn't there.

You are right that acrylics are relatively safe. You still don't want to breathe in the particles though. Just get one of them spray booths https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Lighting-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503908992&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=spray+booth&psc=1 and extend the hose with something similar from Home Depot.

I bought [this](Master Airbrush MAS KIT-VC16-B22 Portable Mini Airbrush Air Compressor Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NL6Cyb8TKF9DS) kit for $50 USD from Amazon which is the compressor, brush, and hose. I just wanted something cheap to learn on after an 8 year hiatus and I had never used a dual- action brush before.

Keeping in mind this was a budget-minded beginners brush for me, it has worked pretty well. The compressor is very quiet but does not have a moisture trap or pressure gauge so I start low and dial it up slowly to get the flow right.

For what I needed it's worked well.

Tamiya Painting Stand

That’ll help a lot. Or a old lazy Susan you don’t care about.

SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish 27 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zNDgAbMQ8BW87

or you could save $40

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543186319&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=thunderline+circle+cutter

Thanks for the input! I ended up increasing my budget and picked up this brush, and this compressor.

I bought this a couple weeks ago and it has been working really nicely so far. It also comes with a hose.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, that compressor wasn't looking too good to me either. Replaced it with this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eDTrDbH39V8J3


I'm also going with the Paasche because of how many extras it comes with, like the three different needle sizes.

>is there any advice you guys could give me so that I end up ruining the finish on my kits?

Why certainly, just spray with tar thinned with engine oil, i garuantee you will end up ruining the finish on your kits =D

On topic though since i'm not much of a DIY-er and looking for a spray booth myself, i've found they don't have to be very expensive.
Example 1
Example 2

Those have a hose that you can hang out the window making ventilation no longer a problem.
Disclaimer though: i'm still looking and haven't actually used any of these nor done much research into them yet so they might be utter crap, but hopefully some fellow modelers will have experience?

Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.

I have ordered this one, it's cheap and has good reviews. So if I don't like airbrushing, I didn't spend 300 to get started. Ordering it in a week or so . http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TO578Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405204451&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLQ019A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_RmAPwb98YHZ9A it works really well, I haven't had any issues with it so far.

You really need a decent airbrush, cheap no name knock-off copies will probably put you off airbrushing for life.
Compressor
Airbrush

The NEO is made for Iwata who make some of the best airbrushes around. Review is here he does raise some issues, but this was written 7 years ago.

I have this kit. Unfortunately the compressor has no gauge, but supposedly the compressor keeps it at 25 psi. I clean the thing religiously according to instructions I've found here and that seems to help, but it's still frustrating that colors take a million coats because I have to thin them so much.

Interesting. This? Is it tedious to get a uniform polish around surface detail, or no?

Here's the Future stuff via Amazon

Here's a link to the product on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1509879400&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor&dpPl=1&dpID=415e8X8G5yL&ref=plSrch

Doesn't have a tank, which is a deal breaker for me. A compressor with a tank provides a constant airflow, eliminating the air pulsing which can distort your paint job.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001738DXU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453313936&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=airbrush+compressor&dpPl=1&dpID=51PiLjO7hlL&ref=plSrch

This one is exactly like mine and I have zero issues with it.

That is the Tamiya paint stand.

https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-300074522-Model-Stand/dp/B00080DIWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=tamiya+paint+stand&qid=1568823849&s=gateway&sprefix=Tamiya+pai&sr=8-2

Is this the brand you use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493221253&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+wax

This is the stuff I use.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C

Iwata Revolution, Vallejo Paints. I have this exact problem. And I am just now heading out to the local hobby store to pickup some redarder if they have it in stock.

I will report back how that goes.

You need some of this.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Airbrush-Improver-200ml-Paint/dp/B00QD780G0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482515101&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+airbrush

Then maybe add a few drops of retarder...

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Acrylic-Paint-Retarder/dp/B000PH9JP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482515136&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+retarder

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_GtWOAbED52XPJ

If you're getting something other than I believe 1/8" BSP hose you will need an adapter. I have an Iwata but I think Badger uses a different fitting.

Master Airbrush Portable Hobby Airbrush Craft Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts & https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PYfsELXRniQzM

I bought this.

Link

I just got one and the thing is a piece of junk. I returned it and got a whole set of three really high quality airguns and a compressor for about 80 bucks. Here is the link for it btw: https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536461562&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

A lot of airbrush compressors you will find are the same Chinese model that has been rebranded. You won't notice any difference in the amount of air pumped or volume it holds so your best bet is to go with the cheapest option on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Multi-purpose-Airbrushing-Compressor-System/dp/B01M33C8MV/

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-Shirts & More. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FFfmDb096SQ20

This is a similar one my wife got me for Christmas last year.

No smells that are noticable so far.

Here is an example of a "side cutter":

https://www.amazon.com/Integy-Hop-ups-Precision-Modelers-Plastic/dp/B00W4172V8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505567090&sr=8-2&keywords=side+cutter

Liquid glue (random sales listing I chose, unsure if cheapest):
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505567173&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+extra+thin+cement

Example of sanding sticks (prices will vary, more than one brand available probably):
https://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505567224&sr=8-4&keywords=sanding+stick

MEK is SUPER dangerous to use. if the fumes get in your eyes, you go blind. get it on your skin and it can cause all sorts of other issues like nervous system complications. its seriously that dangerous. https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/mek.html
it works well for welding abs plastic as it works on the molecular level to bond the pieces together. has use in 3d printing and such, but other than that, i wouldnt use it for modeling.
i suggest not using it due to the dangers in both use and storage (it needs a stable temp).
just pay for the real stuff
http://www.eplastics.com/styrene-glue one alternative.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491598947&sr=8-5&keywords=styrene+glue its cheap enough to not worry about the price. its not like you plan on wel