Top products from r/motorcycles

I'm 21, 6'2" and 190. Before the MSF class, I had never ridden anything, so I know exactly how you feel. Let me see what I can do:

> So, besides taking the MSF course, what can I do to learn more?

After the MSF class, read or watch Twist of the Wrist 2
(note: you can find these elsewhere for free) TotW 1 is good too, but 2 is more focused on practical street riding.

> What should I know (I realize this may be early since I haven't had any experience yet)?

Before you even touch a bike, you should know that motorcycles are in fact dangerous when compared to other methods of transportation. Be knowledgeable of the studies that prove it. Also, understand that while the activity is inherently dangerous there are many ways to reduce risk. The MSF class should cover most of this, but here's a couple that should be drilled into your head:

• Gear up. All of it. Helmet, Jacket, Gloves, Boots, and something on your legs with more protection than a pair of Levi's.
  
  
• Gear up ALL THE TIME
  
  
• Don't ride in blind spots
  
  
• Always be aware of your surroundings
  
  
• Ride like every car is trying to kill you, because they are
  
  
• Don't be a squid
  
  >Here in Arizona passing the MSF course waives your skills and written test for a license and I have a hard time believing that 2.5 days of experience is enough for me to feel comfortable riding around without more practice.
  
  I took the MSF class and picked up a Ninja 250 a month later with no practice in between. I puttered around the neighborhood streets for a while (about 200 miles worth of residential and <40mph streets) before I took it out on the highway. Mostly, work on your coordination. Keeping track of what gear you're in and what order you pull levers and push pedals can be confusing when you're also making sure you don't get run over. Practice until you're confident.
  
  > Also, I was looking around some dealers this past weekend and almost unanimously they said to ignore the MSF teachers' advice to go for a 250cc bike for a learner because I would "outgrow" it within a few months.
  
  Wrong. Well, Kind of. It's less the amount of time you own it and more the amount of technically challenging miles you've put on it. One piece of advice I love to give to people considering the 250 is this: Don't ever let anyone tell you that you need to have a big bike to be a good rider.
  
  I had my 250 for 3 months and put 3800 miles on it and I was still working on my form when I wrecked it. The people that get bored with a 250 in a couple months are the ones that go fast in straight lines. They upgrade to a 600 supersport, lowside it once and get scared shitless. It's why there are so many cosmetically damaged supersports on the market.
  
  > I've seen a lot of testimonials to the contrary and I mentioned that and then they said that it would be a safety issue, where a larger bike could accelerate out of accidents that a smaller one would get trapped in. Really, I just get the feeling that they are trying to upsell me on a larger bike but I was curious if these things are true.
  
  Plausible, but unlikely. Power is no substitute for safe riding. I feel a little safer in traffic on my 600 than I did on my 250 simply because I can get out of blind spots faster, but all I'm doing is accelerating to get out of someone's way instead of braking.
  
  And yes, the dealer is definitely trying to sell you a bigger bike. Bigger bike, more money, more commission.
  
  > Finally (wow this is a lot of questions) I was looking at a Ninja 250R, probably a used one since the refresh a couple of years ago. Any input on that as a starter bike?
  
  You should check out r/250r for fellow redditors with the 250r. Also, ninja250.org has one of the biggest knowledge databases on the two-fiddy.
  
  > I know it's a "sportbike" but it seems more like a standard bike with rider positioning. Also, would a guy of my height have an issue with one? I sat on one and compared to other bikes I felt like I was sitting very low and wasn't sure if that was a good thing or not.
  
  Inseam matters more than height. Cycle-ergo is an awesome tool that can tell you roughly where your knees will be and how much you have to lean. Honestly, at 6'2", the 250 was a little small for me. I had one of the older ones which was slightly different, but the new ones I sat on at the dealer were also cramped though there are guys taller than me that ride them comfortably. Next time you go to the dealer, sit on one with your hands on the handlebars and stay there for a while. If it seems a little small don't worry, there are a handful of things you can do to change the ergonomics of the bike. If you're completely uncomfortable after 10 minutes, you may want to look at a bigger bike. (Not a supersport.)
  
  > Basically, any advice you can give me would be great!
  
  I know I threw a lot at you and it may be a little overwhelming. You did the right thing by signing up for the MSF class to see if you're truly interested. If you don't make it through the class, don't worry; riding isn't for everyone. It's dangerous, it's expensive and it's certainly a lifestyle change. You'll find yourself going out of your way to hit the twisties and showing up late to things. You'll neglect other projects on the weekends so you can get some seat time. You'll shave your head to avoid helmet-hair. You'll hear the sound of an engine and whip your head around trying to see what kind of bike it's coming from. You'll lean into turns in your car.
  
  But riding is also one of the most rewarding experiences in the world. Getting over the fear, accepting the danger and finally throwing a leg over a bike is a feeling like no other. Once you do that, you get to experience the silent camaraderie of "the wave," the butterflies in your stomach just as you lean into a corner, the feeling you get whenever you see one of those 'curvy road ahead' signs, the exhilaration of completing a perfect set of twisties, and much, much more.
  
  Riding is awesome, and I'm sure you'll love it. Good luck in your class!
  
  EDIT: Downvotes? Seriously? I sure hope that was a bot.

(1) Ok so licensing and basic training is pretty easy in the US but it still varies state to state.

All states use a rider training program, the majority of them being of the MSF curriculum, a small handful of them being run by the MSF themselves. other states will have their own, but the process is usually more or less the same.

you take a 2 day course that takes you from the point of never having sat on a motorcycle to being a licensed rider (some states will still make you take the DMV written exam however) some states will REQUIRE you to take this class if you are under 21. best to check with your state on the process.

This is where you should start. this is not where you should end however. these courses will give you the skills you need to operate the motorcycle, but before being road ready they need to be drilled down in a parking lot. after getting your bike hopefully you can ride it home in a light traffic hours or have it delivered, and be prepared to get out to an empty parking lot and practice the exercises taught before getting into full blown traffic.

in addition to this, your rider education should not stop. i advise you to check out some books from your local library if not purchasing a copy yourself. i will link below

(2) the clutch in a manual car is more difficult than on a bike, but the same interplay between the clutch and throttle applies. most bikes are also designed with wet clutches which allow them to slip more and take more abuse than dry clutches, also gives them a more linear release (although some Italian bikes have dry clutches) . Bikes can also move off easier without throttle which makes things easier in the beginning. hills starts are not as much of a problem on a bike than a car. one advantage a car has however is a mental one, you dont have to worry about keeping the vehicle upright while you are learning. doing this plus learning the clutch could make things challenging. for the most part, though, a motorcycle will be easier than a car.

(3) at your height most bikes will fit well. there's only a few bikes that you can be too tall for, most of the time its the other way around, where as a beginner you want to be able to flat foot the bike. so a lot of this comes down to which bikes you like.

the other things is that a lot comes down to body geometry so not all 6'2" are going to be equally comfortable on the same bike. best it to go and sit on a few bikes. if you are into sportbikes/sport standards, most of the entry level 250cc-300cc bikes actually fit taller people better than say, a 300cc cruiser.

that being said, when you go to take the course. expect to be slightly uncomfortable. a lot of these bikes used at courses tend to be bikes with very low seat heights so that shorter people can still flat foot them...while you are learning you will have to put your foot down a lot, which can be make a taller person feel cramped on the bike. once your riding, these bikes are mostly fine for us taller folk but in the course with so much stop and go, and bike walking exercising, with such a low seat height, its kind of uncomfortable.


Recommended reading:

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well
by David L. Hough
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/
This book is pretty popular and its VERY good. your local library probably has it. I was actually able to get an ebook from the library to read on a tablet in full color without getting off my butt.


The Follow up:
https://www.amazon.com//dp/1935484869/

If you are into sportbikes:

Lee Parks Total Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R31222S

Nick Ienatsch Sport Riding Techniques https://www.amazon.com/gp/1893618072/

Just a couple things on your form:

Put your toe on the outside of the peg and pivot from there, this gets the knee in the correct position more naturally. You're big enough that you shouldn't need to hang off more than half a cheek. Also, don't ignore your outside leg, keep the toe pointed into the turn will provide the squeeze against the tank, like an anchor. That will help your lower-body positioning. You should have this done just before you flick it into the turn.

As far as upper body, your vision seems perfect (up and out), but you're still in-line with the bike. If you imagine leaning around the frame of a door to look through, that's the goal. Basically get your chin and shoulder down over the hand grip and keep your eyes up. Also try not to square up your shoulders, instead line them up with the turn.

Once you get comfortable with both of those, it will come together and you'll be tripping the tank with your outside knee and forearm, while your inside knee glides along the pavement!

Aside from body position, throttle control is key. Essentially you want 60% of the weight on the back, 40% on the front. This is achieved with steady, constant roll on the throttle.

As far as suspension goes, I'm not sure if you have rebound on your springs, but at the least set your sag and preloads for your weight. You'll need a friend for this, and a video like this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAWLaLf1Awc&playnext=1&list=PL0E1D32409F421246&feature=results_video

These two books are amazing, cheap, and I absolutely recommend picking up a copy, or if you're ever in KC, hit me up and I'll give them to you! A Twist of the Wrist and A Twist of the Wrist 2, both by Keith Code.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347847984&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Also, your gear on top is perfect but a pair of riding pants with knee pucks and good boots with toe sliders will give you loads more confidence.

Most of all, enjoy it and ride at 80% of what you feel capable of, you'll last a lot longer that way! Ride on.

So, judging by the comments is this actually you or is it your friend? Either way, 90% of us (myself included) went through the squidly phase of "trying" to drag knee, and posting evidence of such transgressions on reddit is not going to end well.

Kudos to whoever that is for at least doing it in a more controlled environment than a two-lane road. Now that he has got it out of his system, as others have said, he needs to work on the actual techniques that will make dragging knee more of an option than a goal. Getting a knee on deck should be the consequence of proper body position, decent lean, and a knee slightly extended. What he is doing looks and feels unnatural, but optional kneedown territory looks and feels natural, and the knee only needs to be out a tiny bit to touch. Now, the fledgling squid may say in their defense "No way man I was barely trying to stick my knee out". However, the dead giveaway is the distance from the foot-peg to the ground. A "natural" knee down comes when the pegs are just about touching the ground.

He didn't crash so his technique can't be too terrible, but I would say; his head needs to be more towards the inside of the turn, he should probably scoot his butt back and lean his upper body more forward/down, his foot needs to be more towards the inside of the peg, and his knee to be to be in a lot more.

If your friend is interested in becoming a proficient, quick, and safe rider, two excellent books are Nick Ienatsch's "Sport Riding Techniques" and Keith Code's "Soft Science of Road Racing Motorcycles" Nick's book is more of an all encompassing road/track guide that has tons of good information including proper body position. The "Soft Science" book is a bit more advanced and goes a more into theory and what one can do to make themself a more adaptable and competent decision maker on the bike.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541093996&sr=8-1&keywords=sport+bike+riding+techniques

​

https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Science-Roadracing-Motorcycles-Procedures/dp/096504503X

​

Lastly, don't necessarily listen to the more "refined" riders who tell you not to drag knee. Riding a motorcycle is about fun, and sticking a kneedown is fun as hell, even if you don't need to. The point is to make sure you FIRST learn the techniques that allow you to do it safely, and to do it in a controlled environment (the track).

​

​

I picked up my bike for $2200 with a clean title but definitely had been laid down. Then I put about $200 and a few weekends of time into it to make it road legal and safe to drive. I had my parents buy me a nice helmet and MSF class for my birthday as they didn't want me to skimp on the most important safety items, if you're young I'd highly suggest this route. I put about $200 more into a jacket and then I pay $350 annually for insurance, split with my dad on the policy to reduce costs since I'm a 23 y.o. male. All in all I put in about $3000 and I think I'm pretty well set.

I'd also highly suggest buying this book. I thought it was very informative on the risks of riding and helped me approach motorcycling with a more mature attitude than I would have otherwise. I read it before I'd even set foot on a bike and then also read it again after I had started to learn the basics.

All in all good luck! And know that once you start, you won't be able to stop... I'm still hoping it gets to over 50 degrees here in Ohio this year...

Please dont take offense to this, but from your post, I honestly cant tell if you are serious or a troll. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and say you are serious.

If so, I would strongly advise starting on a smaller displacement bike. Too much power applied at the wrong time could result in a very expensive pile of twisted metal and broken plastic, not to mention a twisted and broken rider. A smaller bike will give you the time to build up your skills and confidence before you get the growling beast you really want.

Chances are you're going to probably ignore that advice. When I was buying my first bike, I knew I wanted something that I'd be able to ride for a long time without out-growing it in a couple of months. Plus I knew I didnt have the money to buy another bike later. I wanted the big machine NOW. But trust me, starting small is MUCH better than starting big and trying to get used to it as you are learning how to ride. Not to mention that starting small means a less expensive bike, so you can spend some of that budgeted money on gear and training without feeling quite so broke.

As for the MSF, TAKE THE CLASS. Its a structured environment, showing you exactly why and how you should ride. Unless your friend is an instructor, chances are they are going to give you some advise that will probably end up getting you hurt the minute you encounter something you were't told.

Just know that after taking the MSF course, you are really only skilled enough to ride in a parking lot. The transition from classroom to street can be a real eye-opener. Dont think you know everything there is to know because you have the endorsement on your license. Its going to take a lot of practice to even begin feeling confident.

Start reading. Get a copy of "Proficient Motorcycling" and read it cover-to-cover. Then read it again.

You might also want to get a copy of the DVD "Ride Like A Pro". The skills shown in this video are very helpful for new riders. Especially if on a cruiser.

Practice Practice Practice! Spend some hours in a parking lot working on your aggressive braking, slow slalom, and all the other stuff shown in the Ride Like A Pro video. The time you spend in the parking lot will greatly improve your survival chances on the road.

If you are hard-set on getting a cruiser, understand a little about the concept of rake and trail. The longer the rake (the more the front wheel sticks out from the bike) the more difficult its going to be to turn. Especially when you are a new rider. Shorter rake = quicker turning with less effort. This is not to say that turning a cruiser is going to be tough, but its much different than a bike with a shorter rake.


And finally, GET SOME GOOD GEAR. Dont buy into the idea that since you are a cruiser you have to look like a typical cruiser rider. You probably see lots of guys riding in the standard cruiser uniform: denim vest, half helmet, etc. IGNORE THAT. Understand that when you go down, you are going to want something that is going to keep you out of the hospital as much as possible. Armor up.

Good luck!

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

Jeesus. I was in college when you were born. Anyway... It's hard to give general tips without sounding like a broken record, but here goes:

Get decent gear and wear it, people will tell you that you have to spend $1,000 on gear but that's BS, just keep an eye on closeouts, my favorite site is http://www.motorcyclegear.com/ a few hundred bucks will get you everything you need if you're not fussy about having the best, latest or flashiest stuff.

Take the MSF if you haven't already.

Get this book and read it, it's the best book there is for teaching rider safety on the street. http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

Take short, easy rides at first, your riding brain is like a muscle that you have to work out to build up over time.

Get out there and have fun!

As already recommended, DanDan's Youtube is a wealth of good information. I'd also check out MotoJitsu's channel. Both of them do a great job of explaining concepts and giving you visual examples.


While some people think they're antiquated in these days of streaming video, I'm going to recommend a couple of books as well. I've read pretty much every motorcycle book ever published. These two I reread regularly.

https://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760343446/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0

Lee's basic curriculum has replaced MSF in several states, including CA, which has the most riders. The sooner more states follow that lead, the better, IMO. MSF is better than nothing, but it leaves a LOT to be desired. Read his book. He's from Chicago. He gets back home and teaches a few classes a year in the area. https://www.totalcontroltraining.net/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=sr_1_1

Just a TON of great street-oriented info in this book (and its sequel). Covers a lot more than just the physical skills of riding.


Good luck. I'm up in the FAR north suburbs. Gimme a shout when you've got wheels, we'll go on a ride.

You can do that with the Ninja 250. It's all practice. Like V_Glaz_Dam mentioned you should watch the Twist of Wrist 2 series.

Here's something I wrote for one of my friends.

For books, I personally like this one the most. I feel like Nick took a lot information from the Twist of the Wrist books and made it more modern.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1893618072/ref=oh_o02_s01_i00_details



But I also learned a lot from Lee Park's book. Lee Park hosts a rider school where he runs over all the drills in his book and helps with rider technique. You have to google the class schedules but he comes around California at least once or twice a year.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0760314039/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details



The there is the Twist of the Wrist series
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330372612&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330372612&sr=8-2

I haven't read those books but the Twist of Wrist II videos are on youtube so you can check them out.



The last book I would recommend is Proficient Motorcycling. I highly recommended reading that one because it focuses a lot on general riding. Techniques that everyone should learn just to stay alive riding on the road. The book can be found at some libraries so you can save some money by just loaning it.
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1933958359/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330372534&sr=1-1-spell

The rest is all practice.
Also youtube "ninja 250 track" and you'll see a bunch of videos of guys racing their 250s on the track.

I wouldn't get on a track until you are at least familiar with your motorcycle. Get some miles under your belt before you decide to do it. After you are comfortable on your bike I would try to hook up with some local riders who are better than you. That way you can talk to them and learn from their experience. But remember to take most advice with a grain of salt. I personally use meetup.com to meet a lot of other guys to ride with.

Glad you're alright!

As a new rider, I highly suggest you pick up Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough. It's an amazing book that is very honest about the risk, and lays out tons of techniques to handle stuff like different road hazards that you'll eventually run into, and how to basically perfect defensive riding.

A lot of this stuff isn't in the MSF manual, and the book goes into great detail about how to safely navigate through stuff like gravel on the road, around train tracks and any edge traps, oil on the road, slanted roads with bad traction, deers and dogs, etc. This kind of stuff will make you eat shit if you don't know how to handle it - it did me. We all have instincts for these emergency situations, instincts that can often be the wrong thing to do, like cutting your throttle as soon as you hit an oil patch and start slipping. You can't always trust your instincts and experience.

I've googled for a while trying to figure out these tips but it's really hard to find a good deal of information on the internet on this stuff. This book really puts it all together and teaches you how to be a safer rider. Highly recommend it.

Welcome to the club! And remember, about two years in when you're feeling much more confident as a rider, you're actually at a higher risk because riders get more cocky. stay safe

I highly suggest a Ram Mount.

You'll need 3 pieces to make it work for your bike.

First, you'll need a base. I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Motorcycle-Base-Hole-Ball/dp/B0012TRIY4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1404890887&sr=8-25&keywords=Ram+Mount

But there are other bases available. Check out what Ram has and pick which suits you best.

Next, you'll need an arm that attaches to the base. Ram has 3 different lengths available but they look like this: http://www.amazon.com/Mounts-Composite-Double-Socket-RAP-B-201U/dp/B0074WMQLS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1404890870&sr=8-9&keywords=Ram+Mount

And the last thing you'll need is mount. I use the X-Grip which looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Universal-X-Grip-Holder-1-Inch/dp/B0055PH0XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404890870&sr=8-1&keywords=Ram+Mount

But I use it for my cell phone and not a GPS.

If the X-Mount isn't suitable for your GPS unit, you could see if Ram has a specific bracket for your particular GPS from their website which you could find here: http://www.rammount.com/Products/GPSMounts/tabid/135/Default.aspx#/

But if you go that route, you'll need a 4th piece to attach the bracket to and it looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mounts-RAM-B-238-2-43-Diamond/dp/B002KO5XVU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404891383&sr=8-5&keywords=Ram+Mount

Hope this helps out and good luck.

BTW, how do you like the GW250? I am very interested in getting one of those.

Warning long post.

It sounds blasphemous on a Motorcycle thread to suggest getting a car first, but I completely agree that a cage will help in learning street and vehicle laws which is the foundation of any good driver or rider. An automatic car is simple to drive. You push the pedal and the car goes forward. I understand you're a bit terrified of driving a car but on a motorcycle you have to deal with staying in the proper gear, utilizing the clutch lever, balancing your bike at low speeds, while avoid crashing with blind drivers that say they didn't see you. Also bike theft is pretty common if you live in a city. Learning in a car first removes all the stress factors you will encounter on a bike to fully understand road and safety laws.

Can I suggest a motorized scooter? They are easy to handle and forgiving in power and they will still get you from point A to B while removing the clutch and gear factor. It will also prepare you for when you do upgrade to a motorbike because you will have had experience dealing with cars on the road. It was a scary experience when I transitioned from car to motorcycle because I no longer felt protected by several feet of steel.

If you're dead set on getting a motorized bike read below:

Buy the book Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough. Take an MSF class, usually $250 USD but since you're under 21 you can take it for $150. I also believe MSF is mandatory for those under 18 in several states and even if it wasn't, it's a 100x easier than taking the behind the wheel test at the DMV. Completing the MSF course is your behind the wheel test. Not only do you get to ride for two days, it will help you decide whether you want a bike or not. I knew biking was for me because I was practically speeding with a grin on my face during the bike exam. It was during the quick-stop test but I really wanted to know how fast I could brake since we were in a controlled environment.

For your first bike, please please please buy it used, don't be stupid like me, I didn't drop my bike but it is very possible and I had a few close encounters (at low speeds no less). Also I outgrew the power, I commute on highway a lot and half the time I couldn't keep up with traffic. You maybe lighter than me so a 250 could definitely serve your needs. I'm not sure of your height but if you want to be able to flatfoot a bike (which does give confidence to new riders) a Honda Rebel 250 cruiser could good. For sportbikes I suggest a CBR250R or Ninja 250. If you like the cafe racer/standard look try to find a Suzuki TU250X if it's legal in your state.

TL;DR: You should get a car first otherwise read Proficient Motorcycling and take MSF.

Great advice.

Just be aware- what is taught in the basic rider course is the most basic elementary stuff. It's also not really everything you need to know- it's just enough to give you a fighting chance of not being killed immediately, and hopefully gives you a solid starting point to improve your skills.

It takes conscious effort to learn riding techniques, and it takes continuous practice to improve. Simply putting on miles without understanding that you need to put focused effort into improving will get you miles under your belt without developing superior skills. Staying alive on the street is a combination of riding skill and observation & planning skills. Some of this you can learn from books, I recommend David L. Hough's books "Proficient Motorcycling" and "Mastering the Ride: More Proficient Motorcycling", and also his "Street Strategies: A Survival Guide for Motorcyclists" book.

And there are many others who have written good books on riding, but those are the ones I own. When my wife and later our kids decided to ride, those are the books I strongly recommended to them.

Take more formal instruction after you have a little experience on the street. The MSF advanced rider course, or a dirt bike school, a police motor office course, anything with a pro instructor. Track days can be good too, if there is good instruction and coaching available. Right now, you don't really know what you don't know.

1. Get a small bike to start with. Most bikes are really overpowered, and frankly dangerous for new riders. A 1000cc Bolt probably isn't the best bike to start on, even if it is marketed as a "starter" cruiser. A lighter weight bike will be easier to handle and learn on, and much more enjoyable to ride as you start. You simply don't need that much displacement or weight. Start with a lightweight, low displacement bike that is easy to handle. Think easy to ride, reliable, inexpensive and easy to get parts for when you inevitably take a spill. Here is a good summary of better options. I've been riding for 30 years, and still prefer small, lower displacement bikes.
   
2. Buy good gear. Invest in a full face helmet, jacket, gloves, pants and boots. The cost of gear will be far less than the cost of medical care, and gear is especially important for a new rider. You will fall early on. Brain bucket style helmets don't cover the part of your head that is the most common point of impact. Impact Zones.
   
3. Take the MSF beginner course. It offers good practice in a controlled environment and will teach you basic safety.
   
4. Read up. There are some outstanding books that discuss the importance of the right approach to riding. Not so much technique, which is important, but the right mindset of riding defensively. [David Hough's Proficient Motorcycling] (http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1933958359) books are outstanding.
   
5. Read more. There are some important motorcycle safety studies out there that can tell you a lot about safe riding techniques. Read [the Hurt Report and the MAIDS Report] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_safety) and see what you can learn.

If I'm going to work, I roll up my hi-vis vest and stuff it into my helmet with my gloves and put it in a locker at work. Out in public, I lock my helmet to my passenger peg with a pistol bore lock. Forgot what video I watched that someone used it, but it's been a life changer not having to carry a helmet around or leaving it unsecured on the bike. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ2Z322/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YW2BzbK65F9WK

Also, I'd recommend some earplugs if you don't want to listen to music or if you're making a short trip somewhere. These are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V2SS9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pV2BzbM5W9MEA

If you do want to listen to music, a pair of Shure 215's are great if you don't want a communicator. They're considered monitors, so they have passive noise canceling and foam eartips to block outside noise. Plus they sound amazing, so when you're not on the bike, you have some quality headphones to listen to music with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_602BzbPVGC44Q

Those three things have made riding and commuting more enjoyable. And, they all fit in a small 5.11 pouch I have attached to my battery cover. Hope all this helps.

I'm going to recommend something a little unconventional around here: an actual paper book.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760313318/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_6wgwybXHCREVS

I bought this sort of on a whim when I started riding and was in the same position as you, and it was unbelievably informative and interesting to read. Its slightly out of date in that it precedes the advent of common electronic aides, but 100% of the stuff in the book is useful.

Also, while I'm recommending books for new riders, Lee Park's "Total Control" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760343446/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Mxgwyb3MVM3CF) is an absolutely brilliant book. Its specifically about street riding (as opposed to track) and is targed towards newish riders. This book basically singlehandedly changed me from a hesitating novice to a confident (though a little reckless, it taught me to ride well but doesn't teach thoughtfulness the way Keith Code does) rider.

And, of course, the great grand daddy of them all, Twist of the Wrist 2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0965045021/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aygwyb1BB573F). This book is so good and so dense that I still find new things to practice every page or two. The definitive riding technique book for good reason. No, you don't need to read part 1.

I recommend this brand of battery tender, they make smaller and bigger ones, but this one is good for maintaining any 12 V lead acid battery. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

Here’s a good winterization checklist. www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

And I recommend using this gas treatment when it’s time to park, treat your gas, run it some to get treated gas everywhere then top off the tank. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

And your battery tender comes with a quick disconnect pigtail to make it easy to plug it in, this is a useful accessory as well. www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sorry about the delay. I don't bring much non-obvious stuff, but here are some thoughts that I think are helpful.

1. Have zip-ties and have them handy. You can fix so much stuff in a pinch with a zip tie, from busted fairings to securing a paper towel/rag around a fork if your seal leaks to any number of other things. Of course all of this is useless if the zip ties are buried deep in your bags. I keep a few in the Camelbak I ride with for easy access.
   
   
2. If you're mechanically inclined at all, bring a handful of your most used tools. Most bikes have 3 or 4 typical sizes for allen keys, sockets, and screw drivers. You don't need much (you aren't going to rebuild anything on the side of the road) but quickly tightening a loose fastener on the go beats waiting until you get to town or having to ask a shop to tighten a bolt for you. Like the zip-ties, these should be your quickest/easiest access things.
   
   
3. Obviously you'll be carrying a phone, but if you're also running a helmet comm system I cannot recommend a USB battery tender enough (even just for a phone it's great). You can charge right off your bike battery if you need some juice in a pinch. It's like $10 and installs in under 10 minutes.
   
   
4. Pack light on clothes and supplies, especially if you aren't camping. You don't need much and you aren't impressing anyone under your helmet and jacket anyway. A lot of AirBNBs and some campgrounds have laundry so you can totally do it on the road if you're gone long enough. The less you have to pack up and strap down each morning, the better.
   
   
5. Stay hydrated. I usually drink a bottle of water or, better yet, fill my Camelbak to drink as I head down the road at each gas stop. You don't usually realize you're dehydrated until you're already there and it's easy to make mistakes at that point.
   
   
6. The most important tip is to be open to changing plans on the fly. Weather, bike issues and recommendations from strangers on the road can really alter your plans but that's what makes it the most fun. I try to set a goal each night for where I want to end up the next day, but having a hand-and-fast rule like "I HAVE to be at this point 2.5 days from now" can really frustrate you if conditions aren't perfect. These trips are nothing if not incredible lessons in adaptability and improvisation.
   
   If you've got more questions about a specific pack list or anything else, feel free to ask.

That's a beautiful bike. Treat her with respect and she'll last a long, long time.

In case you're interested, this is my favorite book on motorcycle concepts and technique. That book and a MSF course will put you well ahead of the curve (no pun intended).

Ride safe and enjoy!

I highly recommend reading this book . I'm a beginner too, and have learned a lot from it, I know people will say practice is the only way to learn, but reading from veteran riders is also good for you. Like many here suggest, make sure to get your gear, license, driving courses and insurance (both for you and your motorcycle) beforehand. Read thoroughly all your local traffic laws applicable to motorcyclists and make sure you have a place to keep your new baby safe. Go for it :)

Here's a list, off the top of my head - I know all these are on my bookshelf, but I'm probably missing a few more:

Hell's Angel: The Life and Times of Sonny Barger and the Hell's Angels Motorcycle Club by Sonny Barger

Freedom: Credos from the Road by Sonny Barger

Ridin' High, Livin' Free: Hell-Raising Motorcycle Stories by Ralph Sonny Barger

Dead in 5 Heartbeats by Sonny Barger

Under and Alone by William Queen

No Angel: My Harrowing Undercover Journey to the Inner Circle of the Hells Angels by Jay Dobyns

Hell's Angels: A Strange and Terrible Saga (Modern Library) by Hunter S. Thompson

Street Justice by Chuck Zito

The Original Wild Ones: Tales of the Boozefighters Motorcycle Club by Bill Hayes

Ghost Rider: Travels on the Healing Road by Neil Peart

The Masked Rider: Cycling in West Africa by Neil Peart

Against the Wind: A Rider's Account of the Incredible Iron Butt Rally by Ron Ayres

Shop Class as Soulcraft: An Inquiry into the Value of Work by Matthew B. Crawford

Honda CB750: The Complete Story by Mark Haycoc

Shovelhead Red The Drifter's Way by Roy Yelverton

Shovelhead Red-Ridin' Out by Roy Yelverton

A Twist of the Wrist 2: The Basics of High-Performan​ce Motorcycle Riding by Keith Code

Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques by Lee Parks


Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry into Values by Robert M. Pirsig - Still my favorite. A high school english teacher bought it for me when he found out I had just passed my motorcycle road test. I've read it at least 15 times, and get something new from it each time.


But the best recommendation - Buy the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your bike and read it. Read it often, until you can almost turn to the exact page for each procedure.

• In short, there's nothing you can say or do now that will ease her mind.
  That all comes with time. Save up and pay for your own bike and gear, take the safely course. Try not the crash in your 1st year of riding. Show her you're responsible adult.
  
  
• Don't ride in the rain, Take public transport. But sometimes it can't be helped. Just take it slow, wait for the rain to die-down if it get too heavy (what's heavy? you have to make a judgement on that)
  You can get riding gear that's water proof, but my experiences with them is that they don't work. Just carry a water proof backpack with a change of clothes in there, Kriega makes great stuff. The bike should be fine in the rain, but it's best to find a shaded area to park.
  
  
• Just keep in mind that you're a beginning and know your limits. A twist of the wrist 2. Read it or Watch it.

It was a long time ago, but yes, I recall something similar. I just want to add a word of warning that while you may feel more relaxed now, you must never become complacent. "They" say that the 2nd year of riding can be the most dangerous simply because of the situation you outlined. You get comfortable, relaxed and think "hey! I haven't crashed! I think I have this 'riding' thing down!" So keep your guard up and start practicing the next level of riding.

Oh, and if you haven't yet, I highly recommend reading Proficient Motorcycling - excellent reading no matter what your riding style/skill level.

PPS - nice bike - I have two of them (Gen I) ;-)

Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough is available in both print and Kindle. This is the best book you'll ever read about how to become a better rider; it explains the basics and dynamics of a motorcycle and how to put the best skills to work for you. It's a great read for both Novice and Skilled Riders; no one will disagree on this.

Now for pointers: LOOK into the turn to where you want the bike to go; don't fixate your eyes on a single object. Slow down BEFORE the turn and roll the throttle into it.

Watch this ridiculously directed training video; once you get past the goofy characters, it teaches a lot of good riding habits.

Edit: Got name mixed up - Thanks for the heads up.

You should try only doing your steering input with the arm on the inside of the turn. Trying to steer with both arms means you're going to be needlessly flexing a lot of muscles as your arms try to fight each other. By steering with one arm the bars will feel a whole lighter and your outside arm will stay relaxed and free to work the controls with more dexterity. It also lets the wheel move slightly as is it responds to the road through the turn. Nothing on the road is going to try and rip the bars from your hands mid turn so just let them wiggle as they like (dirt is a different story).

The first time you try this, do it somewhere nice and open because you might find the bike turning in more quickly than you're used to. I was actually quite surprised at how much easier it made turning the bike. It feels like you shaved 100 pounds off your machine. It reduces fatigue substantially as well.

For attribution, I learned this technique from the book Total Control by Lee Parks. I can't recommend this book highly enough.

Edit: the second review on that amazon link mentions this exact technique and reviewer's amazement with it's effectiveness.

Everything in that warning is true, but IMO, Hill Country is a great place for a novice to practice their technique. He needs to be careful, of course, but a rider who learns out there won't get into the habit of out-riding his sightlines.

Maybe you could pair the Butler Map with a copy of Hough's Proficient Motorcycling, which is a great manual for riding safely in real-world situations.

I've already got a dedicated charger for it, looks like the inverter is probably the best plan. So picking up one of these guys - http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462991533&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+to+cigarette+lighter+adapter - to go with the inverter and the standard usb adapter is probably going to be my best bet.

I appreciate the help!

Read Proficient Motorcycling. It's a great book, and will give you exercises to practice and advice for how to ride safely and more confidently. Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

Capt. Crash Idaho has some good tips and techniques with his free videos.

Here are some basic parking lot exercises. A tip for laying out parking lot cones--get a bunch of bright yellow tennis balls and cut them in half. You'll get two "cones" for the price of one tennis ball.

There's a lot of good articles on Bike Safer.

There are some good books and DVDs if he's willing to spend a few bucks, get the Total Control or Ride Like a Pro DVDs. RLAP is mostly focused on slow-speed tight turning techniques (like the police bike "rodeos" do). More Proficient Motorcycling book is great for street survival tips. If he's willing and able to spend more money, then he could take a course, such as Total Control, MSF Experienced Rider course, etc. Speaking of MSF, you can get their book here.

When I took the MSF Beginning Rider Course, several of the other students already had experience riding and owned their own bikes. They, like me, were there to refresh the basic skills and maybe learn something new because we were all self-taught. BRC isn't cheap, but I think it's worthwhile, and being on a bike in a structured environment like that might be just the confidence-builder that he needs.

Edit: I found a link to PDF files from the MSF, including their textbook for the BRC.

It comes down to your skill level. Rear braking and downshifting can set up your rear suspension, braking with power helps you control your exit.

Shifting works the same way.....

Way over simplified, but it's a good idea to get used to the feeling of controlled braking and/or adding power through corners. You never know when an off camber or decreasing radius turn ( or something slick that knocks you off your line) will toss something scary at you.

My racing days were a LONG time ago. A good first read -- http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

Also, anything that works on the track will help you on the road. Being able to maneuver and or stop ridiculously fast will help avoid most incidents in traffic.

I'm just learning how to do it on a big cruiser. The first time I grabbed a handful of front brake last week at a quick light, I almost blew through the intersection (after 25 years of riding.) Today I was giving those big brembos all they could take to find out where my loss of traction would start and to see how stable the bike is with some front wheel slide. Very stable, happy to say. But, I had to know.

Practice and doing it is the only way. Just like you said it needs to become muscle memory and the only way to make that happen is to do it over and over and over. Like u/Some_Old_Man_Fishin said, find an empty parking lot and practice there. Do the drills you learned in your BRC again and again. Once you are comfortable enough just doing the basics, try adding some 'emergency' stops and lane changes and what not.

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well is a great resource and has tons of great information.

Also 150cc is a pretty small engine, with your weight + the weight of your gear, I wouldn't recommend any highway riding.

Read the FAQ, and this. If you are still interested take a class. Assuming you have a license getting a permit is as simple as taking a test, and depending on the state the MSF might work to get you a M1 straight away.

Pro: Fun as hell. Getting to your destination will likely end up being the best part of you day.

Cons: Weather, shitload of gear to carry around, and if you have a car it's an added expense.

If you treat it as a commuter only and get a small bike there could be cost savings. If you love riding and spend a lot of time on the bike then you found yourself an expensive hobby(gas/tires/oil/maintenance).

It's a hefty initial investment. Even with a cheap bike($1500-2000 range) you have to add in gear, insurance, and taxes/title transfer. You are realistically looking at a $3000 minimum entry fee, and most would recommend not going into debt over something that is essentially a toy(if you don't have a car).

Sounds though you still have the mindset that you are responsible for your driving and they are responsible for theirs...On a bike this is shit. You are responsible for your self and any other traffic. You have to assume they WILL cut you off they WILL not see you etc.
It's a part of a defensive strategy. I would suggest a good book on motorcycle safety:
https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

Again, I am not saying I don't run into issues or that I am the perfect rider or that I never have road rage. None of that. But I do now realize that If I don't account for bad drivers ACTIVELY I will eat dirt one day. KNOW that cars are out to get you and just maybe you can prevent it. Just my take on it.

I read a bunch of different answers. I only use the brakes for slowing or stopping. When I've accomplished that, I let them go or let up. I try to be as efficient with my controls as possible, only using what I need, when I need it. That gives my brain more time to process the "big picture". I used to think of the bike as an extension of myself. Now, after experience and practice, it is :)

There is a lot that needs to be paid attention to when riding, so taxing your brain in a pseudo "ready mode" or other taxing thought processes isn't as good as fully paying attention to the present. Definitely practice any riding skills until they become natural. My goal is to have total awareness of my surroundings as much of the time as possible, but instantly focusing 100% on any potential emergencies while spending as little time in that state as possible, then going immediately back to total awareness. For example: I'm sitting at a stop light, swivel my helmet and see some one coming up fast. I then take action. Could be tap the brake, turn on my turn signal, or grab the bars and make my best effort to move to safety if needed depending on the situation. Then reset and scan.

With more practice, one can grab the clutch, twist the throttle, shift to 1st, and start releasing the clutch in well under 1 second or seemingly simultaneously. I've been riding for 21 years and it's 2nd nature, (I don't think about it) which allows for they key to being on the road in any vehicle = pay attention.

--

This is an absolute must for ANY rider weather you're racing, riding , or driving:
http://amzn.com/0965045021
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-Keith-Code/dp/0965045072

Hold up! Before you buy that! Let me get you to the link, I found some awesome gas proof stuff that I painted my tank with!

Edit: here's the link

This stuff works great, applies well, looks amazingly smooth, nice and glossy. Best of all it's gas proof, I ruined a few Rust-Oleum paint jobs before finding it.

You’ve got most of the basics. You’re starting out a lot more informed than most.

Not sure what country you’re in but if you have local training classes available, take them. Always keep learning.

Always remember that being in a hurry almost never gets you there that much faster. A couple minutes (if that) is not worth the risk of hurrying and not paying attention.

Even if you have the right of way, that will not console you from the hospital bed. Sure, you may have been in the right and they should have stopped. And yes they will hopefully cover your medical bills and totaled bike. But wouldn’t you rather just avoid all of that in the first place? We cannot afford to hold our own while riding. Make yourself visible and always use your lane space to your advantage, but give way if needed.

These two books have an amazing amount of practical knowledge for street riding:

[Street Strategies](Street Rider’s Guide: Street Strategies for Motorcyclists (Motorcycle Consumer News) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081326/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ijwaCb4M23P86)

[Proficient Motorcycling](Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DlwaCbBZ1YK5Q)

I used Spray Max 2k urethane clear over regular Rustoleum or Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint. It actually turned out really good. The 2K Urethane spray can really comes out well and ends up looking like a total professional paint job for much, much less.

Note: the urethane clear needs to be sprayed in a very well ventilated area and you MUST wear a protective mask and goggles. The stuff is super toxic. But you'll read all about it because the can is basically one huge warning label.

It's the wind that'll do you in. No matter what helmet brand or type you wear, your ears are gonna suffer from the wind.

You can buy different types of earplugs. But the two real stars are either Howard Leight earplugs or musician earplugs. They don't "plug" your ears like the first pair do but instead feel like you just turned the real world's volume knob down, because musicians need to hear perfectly what they are playing. I'd try out Ear Peace or LiveMusic HearSafe :)

My bar ends spin very easily but loosening the screw was impossible.

I got these: https://www.amazon.com/Krator-Universal-Inceased-Davidsons-Kawasaki/dp/B002GTKAHQ#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1490672053210

Love the look and functionality of the new. Previously the mirrors were the highest point on the bike so the bar ends make it look more streetfighter. Also I would have to lean to look around my shoulder but that's not a problem with these.

I plan on finding the size of the bolt to fit in the old holes and adding accessories like a phone mount or cup holder.

For further reading, check out Proficient Motorcycling. This is an excellent resource and I generally recommend it whenever I can because I really believe it helped me become a better, safer rider.

He mentions that there was a growing concern about motorcycling safety so they rounded up a bunch of expert riders and put them into tough (staged) situations. So many of them crashed when trying to cross an uneven road surface that they came up with the "45 degree" rule.

The Hurt Report showed that, compared to the average, people who took classes were half as likely to be in accidents, while those who were taught to ride by friends or family were a third again more likely to be in accidents. I'd be curious to see what a modern study would find about watching YouTube videos to learn the basics.

I've just started reading Proficient Motorcycling to up my game. Sure, I find it a lot of fun to lurk on r/CalamariRaceTeam but my personal goals are in order:

1. To applaud my kid graduating from college
   
2. To be standing up while I do it
   
3. To never in my life have a skin graft
   
4. To enjoy motorcycle riding
   
   Achieving proficiency rather than balls-out squidliness fits those goals nicely.

At first I only used this Cardo Scala G4 which installs into almost any helmet. Now I mainly use it just for music. The playback controls are super easy.

Very recently I added a Battery Tender cigarette adapter along with this Ram Handle Bar Base and my existing Ram X-Grip Mountwith a 1" socket arm. I just took it on a good 2 day ride and loved it completely.

I've not read it yet myself but I see Twist of the Wrist recommended here pretty often. There is a movie as well but books usually trump all. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0965045013/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Yep - sounds like you're probably past a lot of the on-bike portions of the BRC. But there is some valuable class room stuff for someone who's not ridden on the streets.

Lucky for you the BRC course book is online - bam:
http://msf-usa.org/downloads/BRCHandbook.pdf

Another couple books that are worth looking at
David Houghs - Proficient Motorcycling
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199

And Lee Parks - Total Control
http://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760314039/

I like Parks descriptions of the more technique oriented content. But Houghs book covers a lot of road/traffic survival techniques that are touched on lightly or not at all in the Parks book

While this edit is significantly better, Code's techniques are still woefully outdated (and exceedingly complex). Please, if you really want to improve your riding, pass on Code and check out anything by Nick Ienatsch. Not only is his methodology way better, but what he teaches draws heavily from what we've learned from MotoGP/WSBK about how motorcycles actually operate.

His book is the best source for how to improve your riding. http://smile.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413476530&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=nick+ientasch

No affilliation whatsoever, but have been involved in motorcycle instruction for over 15 years.

I use [these Radian Custom Molded earplugs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A28OW6/). I originally was going to go with SureFires since they're popular among range shooters and other motorcyclists (judging from some of the Amazon reviews). I went with these for a more custom fit; they're pretty comfortable despite the harder silicone and they're really low maintenance (a big plus for me).

For a disposable earplug, I'd use these Mack's earplugs. I used to work in a machine shop and I wore these most of the day. Pretty comfortable and they block an insane amount of noise. EDIT: I should clarify with some of the newer reviews on this, people are saying they're not quite the same as the old ones so proceed with caution if you plan to look into these.

1. Watch Twist of the Wrist for information on cornering and general riding skills.
   
   
2. Read Proficient Motorcycling to understand some of the roadcraft you'll need to keep yourself on two wheels. If you hunt around long enough, I'm sure you can find a pdf somewhere.
   
   
3. Take a training course! This will save you tons of money in repairs and hospital bills. I'm not from Australia, but 5 seconds of googling landed me a few potential leads.
   
   
4. Don't worry about keeping track of what gear you're in. Just shift up or down as necessary to keep the bike in a reasonable rev range and you'll be fine. The only time you'll really care about exactly what gear you're in is when you're at a stop light and need to be in first, or when you're on the highway and try to shift into seventh.
   
   
5. Practice braking in a parking lot to get a feel for how your bike behaves. Start out by getting up to 15-20mph in first or second gear, and gradually try to stop in shorter and shorter distances until you get a feel for how quickly you can stop without locking the wheels.
   
   Good luck!
   
   

1. Its spinning faster, making more power. in general, good riders keep the bike in power band: where it makes most power. on your bike, HP levels out around 8-10K, so shifting between 8-10K is good idea for spirited riding.
   
2. Ideally, you should blip the throttle and downshift through every gear, though this might be problematic in the city.
   
3. This is engine braking. you shild blip the throttle/rev match for smooth downshifitng.
   
4. Its good idea to stop the way so you can take off rapidly - it just makes your riding safer.
   
5. Thats because when you downshift without blipping the throttle the RPMs are growing rapidly, plus you are putting additional stress on transmission. no, you don't suck, you are just learning and sking right questions.
   I would suggest some reading though: https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473751156&sr=8-1&keywords=sportbike+riding+techniques is an excellent read.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1620081199?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Is a good book, you might know must of it but I guarantee there's some stuff you haven't thought of, good luck out there. I'm pretty new too

Not sure what exact model he is using but the RAM X-Grip Mounts are pretty popular and work very well.

They definitely are! I highly recommend you read Twist of The Wrist by Keith Code. There are some very good points on downshifting, and useful techniques that you can apply to street riding.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

Not strictly earplugs but these work excellent and give you high quality audio as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8

Shure SE215 headphones. Plus they sit completely flush in your ear canal and the wire hooks over the top to prevent snagging. Works extremely well with a helmet and blocks as much outside noise as regular ear plugs.

I've had them for 5 years give or take. Rock solid. I don't know if they're actually from China but i would probably assume honestly. Here's the Amazon link The bike fell over once and i bought a second pair that were exactly the same.
When rebiulding the whole front end on a college budget, you find ways to save money.

I did a rattle can on my motorcycle. Here's an album of the whole process. Rattle Can Paint Job I think it turned out pretty well. The end step should be using a 2 part clear coat that is resistant to fuel, they have some that comes in a spray can too. it worked well for me.

I used this page as a resource

Edit: this is the clear coat I used

There's a lot of things taught in the MSF course that veteran riders don't think about or do subconsciously. You'll miss out on all this information by learning from your experienced friend in a parking lot. MSF gives you a sound foundation to learn on for years to come. There's plenty of advanced courses that come after that like the MSF Experienced Rider Course and Lee Park's Advanced Riding Clinic. I also think David Hough's book Proficient Motorcycling is a must read for every street rider. His book saved my life countless times. There's also track schools that teach you high speed riding skills. 14 years and I'm still learning something new everyday!

RAM X-Grip like Dan said and you can grab the little net to make sure it's steady.

This and This

• This one actually looks like it'd be perfect for you

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

Earplugs are great. In ear monitors are great as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1478191929&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+se215

As others have said: don't skip the battery tender. Get something like this and leave it plugged in all winter. This will keep your battery in good shape.

Don't do this, and there's a good chance come spring that battery won't hold a charge as well (or at all) anymore.

On or off the bike doesn't matter.

Oh wow thanks for the detailed explanation!! I have one of those basic ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NCOKZQ&pd_rd_r=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E&pd_rd_w=eRr1U&pd_rd_wg=vLNJB&psc=1&refRID=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E

Have you ever tried them?

Gasoline drips will ruin ur clear coat if u use Rustoleum clear.

​

You need 2K Clear Coat (Epoxy 2 part clear coat). Its gasoline resistant basically. 1 Can did my SV650 gas tank to perfect gloss.

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

proper paint spray mask recommended

Sport Riding Techniques: How To Develop Real World Skills for Speed, Safety, and Confidence on the Street and Track https://www.amazon.com/dp/1893618072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZwW0AbMMYHP0P

And

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ryW0AbSGD7P6H

And the others by Hough - his books are good on the strategies and decision making of real world full-time riding.

Check out Twist of the Wrist. There's a DVD and a book. Both are excellent. There are some great excerpts from it on youtube as well.

Book:
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021


Some bits from the DVD on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWH_QiXw5n4&feature=related

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

This is the clear I use. It is awesome spray can, 2 part mix. Gasoline resistant:

http://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

The results are incredible especially with a cut an polish. Great for smaller jobs and those who do not have a spray gun. Pro tip: buy a good mask this stuff is awful.

It's bad. Slimes up the inside of the wheel, might plug your valve.

I would just get and carry a tire plug kit with the rubber cement like this. They are easy to use and some people have been known to do thousands of miles on them. I have used them on my car with great success.

These are awesome. Shure SE215
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474584885&sr=1-3&keywords=shure+se215
And get the 3 flange sleeves. They fit well in a helmet and eliminate a significant amount of ambient noise, so you don't have to blast the tunes at high volume.

Sign up for the MSF course. Good way to get familiar with the basic workings of the bike and you'll have your endorsement at the end.

Pick up Proficient Motorcycling. Covers everything from road strategies to basic maintenance and will give you a solid foundation.

Keep the rubber side down and have fun!

This book is great if you're looking to improve at the track as well. There is also a dvd that covers most of the material in the book.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342376172&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist+2

These ones: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-increased-Davidsons-Kawasaki-Cruisers/dp/B002GTKAHQ

Simple to install. You just screw it in and the 2 metal sleeves will expand and press against the inside of the hand grips. That's what should keep them in.

My friend gave me a pair as a gift and I bought another pair after I lost the right one he gave to me during one of my rides.

Let me recommend a book to you. Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough. It has given me a boost in confidence in riding the twisties here in western NC. And I've been riding them on a motorcycle for almost 10 years! Check your local library for it, that's where I found mine.

These: https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY

I’ve used really quiet foam ones, which work, but theyre so quiet you do miss stuff going on around you and it takes some of the fun out of riding.

These are very effective, definitely below the damage threshold, but they let though enough noise to hear cars etc and your own bike.

I'm a big fan of the old standby. Deltran Battery Tender. They make a nice small one that Amazon sells for about $25. Park the bike, plug it in, and you are good to go until the next time you ride. sauce

I got a custom molded earplug kit. Fits great under the helmet and probably the most comfortable earplugs I've ever used

Great idea!

This one is by the same company, longer and even cheaper@
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-Female-Power-081-0069-8/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=pd_luc_sbs_03_01_t_lh

I just ordered this and I ordered a 12' extension too (I have been using an extension cord)

Thanks!

Just go to Amazon right now and order this and this right now. Do it. Will save your life and make riding fun.

i use these: http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Sound-Monitor-Black/dp/B004PNZFZ8/

with these tips:
http://www.amazon.com/EATFL1-6-Sleeves-earphones-SE102MPA-Versions/dp/B00275F2GS/ref=pd_sim_MI_1

i actually got mine on sale for like $55 a while back. It may seem a bit steep for headphones, but i've had them for 5 years and use them on my daily 5-mile run every day. they're one of the best headphone companies around.

Sport Riding Techniques by YCRS lead instructor Nick Ienatsch Essentially a good portion of the concepts in the school. A good primer if you're interested in investing in a class.

Lee Parks also has a very good book, geared more to the street. All of them have the same basic info, only thing different I recall Parks talking about is he like to pull the outside bar to countersteer, rather than push in the inside. Easier leverage, less unintended input from your body mass. It is worht trying both ways to see which is preferred

While you are making reading recommendations, can I suggest that you point him in the direction of A Twist of the Wrist by Keith Code? It really is one of the best instructional books in existence for becoming a better rider.

I bought this mount when I got my license but it didn’t fit my BMW handlebars, so I’m just now able to use it for the first time. Seems fine so far. In addition to the clamps you see, there’s a stretchy rubber material that secures the corners of the phone down.

I'd like to highly recommend Shure SE215.
They have the foam tips like BeerWrench suggested that act essentially just like earplugs, but sit flush in your ear. My biggest problem was my helmet catching on the end of the earbud and ripping/pushing it out. Absolutely zero issue with these.

I'd recommend these above any other earbud I've tried because the noise isolation works so well that I can listen to my music at half volume (even quiet stuff like Bon Iver) and hear every note perfectly whereas with my old Bose IE2s I had to blast it and lost a ton of range.

I use these. They work pretty well, and look pretty good for the price, but what you need to do is take some thin rubber tubing and rap it around the core before you put them on the bike. This gets rid of most of the handlebar vibration making them very usable. You get anti-vibration mirrors for ~20 bucks when you will spend well over 50 if you buy "good" one out the packaging.

I'm about half-way through reading Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough. He spends a great deal of time discussing risks, safety, and rider responsiblity. I would recommend that you purchase a copy, or see if your local library has one available.

After watching a video from fortnine, ended up buying the nonoise plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY

If i am not listening to music i wear these, they are pretty great.

every single time i overfill my tank or get drops of fuel on mine i say a little thank you prayer to spraymax 2k. i CANNOT imagine what my bike would look like without that clear coat. i have had gas just pour down the side of the tank before. spraymax 2k is the shit.

What bike? A throttle lock will help a lot. I use this from Vista Cruise. Works well with a little bit of fiddling.

Definitely get a helmet speaker system that can bluetooth to your phone. I use the Sena SMH-10. Worth every penny. You can stream Pandora straight to your helmet and one touch on the control activates the voice dialing function on your phone.

Also a 12v lighter plug for your phone charger will keep the tunes and maps and emergency comms working. I use a cheap lighter socket ($6) that plugs into my battery tender port. I run it into my tank bag where I keep my phone.

My friend that got me into riding races an R6 with more low end torque than an R1 (only tops out at 120 because of that though :/ ). Another is a bmw s1000rr. I myself ride a old 90 FZR600 supersport and a honda shadow.

It doesn't matter what type of bike it is, steering physics work the same. Cruisers just steer slow and with less lean. It doesn't mean your input on the turn should be any different.

This is also backed up by some well known pro's. Example:

Twist of the Wrist: Keith code

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344012435&sr=8-2&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Total Control: Lee Parks

http://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760314039/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344012569&sr=1-3&keywords=total+control

Lee Parks spend a good amount of the book explaining the techniques for both sportbike and cruisers, which end up being the same thing.

This Ram mount is a good bet. I have a couple of knock off ones the same design (only about $15 on ebay) that have served me well. I even use them for enduro and my phone hasn't fallen out, so they're pretty secure.

I bought this book for $1 on ebay:

https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

It is worth $100.

Buy it, read it, and do the drills.

Edit:

Also: Wake up early!

5:30 - 7:30 on a Saturday/Sunday is the BEST time to ride. Less traffic and less cops.

Just watch out for drunks.

My bike already had a battery tender cable hooked up, so I got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CDPQO/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047T79TA/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The USB is super small (barely even sticks out of the cig lighter). I jam this whole thing in my pocket because I use it to power my chatterbox on long rides.

$30 all together, but then you have a battery tender connector, a cig lighter connector, and a USB connector. You can pretty much do anything with that combo.

This one looks like the same one I got, except I paid $18 for it rather than $50.

Looking at the other options available, the handlebar mount RAM x grip mount is only $33 now (I swear it was $50-$70 when I bought my knockoff). If you don't mind the handlebar mount style I'd probably just go with that one. It looks like it has better adjustability than the one I got

I guess I'm going to be the first in here with unpopular advice.

> ended up laying her down so I didn't hit the van

Yeah, no. If you'd braked properly you'd have had the same result, without a broken bike or road rash.

> Luckily I didn't hit my head, but I have some road rash on it.

A $50 helmet would have saved you that pain.

I seriously don't get why you guys do this. I get it - riding with the wind in your hair is cool. But is the wind in your hair worth losing what looks like a significant patch of skin?

Mate, you got lucky. Buy and wear some proper gear and do yourself a favour and learn how to perform an emergency stop without dropping the bike.

I highly recommend a copy of Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough.

I got my license when I was 16, I've been 21 for a short while now.

I did not take a class, though I rode a 50cc scooter for a while, which was an easy start. I had ridden dirt bikes a few times before that.

My first time riding, I showed up at the house where the bike I was buying was, jumped on, and rode it home. Learned through trial-and-error. I did a fair amount of practicing in parking lots, exercises from this book, and I also read this book, which is great.

If you can afford a course, then take it. If not, be very pro-active about your riding education, practice lots and learn always.

Yes. Buy these. If you want audio, push an earbud in the putty while you're molding it and cut out a hole for the sound when they're solid. You could also use these with bone conducting headphones like I do. Bone conducting headphones actually sound much better and louder when you have earplugs in.

How is leaving your foot on the lever relevant to proper shifting technique? That's like me saying you shouldn't use your clutch because someone had their hand on it for X miles with it partially engaged on the highway and they burned it out.

Of course it's going to cause wear on the transmission, everything causes wear. As I mentioned, properly preloading will make it smoother and cause less wear on the transmission.

>"Press your foot down with just slightly less force than that needed to engage the next gear. Next, quickly roll off the throttle approximately 25 percent of its twisting range. When this happens, the torque force on the transmisssion will temporarily unload, and the preloaded shift lever will now snick into the next gear. For regular shifts at less than full throttle, a simultaneous, light stab of the clutch will help ease this process. For full-throttle 'speed shifting,' no clutch is necessary. In fact, it's actually harder on the transmission to use the clutch in this type of situation than to just let the loading forces do the job." - Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques by Lee Parks

Likewise I'm not trying to convince you to do otherwise. I just want to prevent the spread of misinformation to whoever else may be reading this thread.

I was going to type up some wizard-level science but think the pros do it best. Check Twist of the Wrist 2 (as howheelswork mentioned) and Proficient Motorcycling.

I usually replace my earplugs either once per week or after 3-4 rides. You'll notice when they lose their elasticity and don't stay seated as well. I picked up a big box of 200 and they work great and are comfortable

Ram Mount X Grip for iPhone 6s.

I post this to get feedback from riders who used the Ram X Grip with an iPhone 6s (not plus).

According to Amazon reviews, the original x grip interferes with the volume/power buttons of iPhone 6s ( and apparently 6s + too).

Then Ram offered the x grip large apparently to better fit iPhone 6 + and 6s + and other large droids.

I noticed that there are reviews that reported the same previous problem with interference with volume buttons of iPhone 6s even with the newer mount.

Any thoughts? Did it work for you just fine? Or is there another RAM alternative? I don't use a case for my iPhone.

I'm planning on pairing this with the RAM tough claw on an 07 FZ1.

1
2
3
this was the setup recommended to me and its worked great.

This is an excellent book that I'm currently reading: Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If riding's your thing, you should definitely check out this book.

My personal favorite: Howard Leight "Laser Lite" foam plugs. I get them in a box of 200 from Amazon. They're ridiculously comfortable (for my ears, at least), and do a great job blocking out wind noise without muffling the engine/road noises much.

Congratulations on becoming a real motorcyclist and making it to 5000km!

Can you give us more details? I'd be in a better position to help if you told me what your passengers are saying or what behaviors they are showing instead of being hyperbolic. Same goes for the "ignorant" parents. What misinformation are they getting?

It's going to be an uphill battle to get girls into riding with you if you say they're over-reacting and that their parents are idiots for worrying about putting their daughters' lives in the hands of a rookie rider on a sportbike (even a 125 can look fast to the average person). Listening, understanding, and empathizing come first, then education.

There's a great book you can get for less than $20 called Proficient Motorcycling that will help you--not just with riding two-up, but with overall street skills. It's written for an American rider, but most of the principles are universal.

Mostly, more experience is the solution.

In cases like this: Look around, and figure out where you want to go. Evaluate everything you can, then look straight at where you want to go and go there.

Remember that stopping is only one of many options available to you. If you do stop, immediately carry on and get the fuck out of the way of the guy who's about to rearend you, wasn't paying attention, and hasn't maintained his brakes.

Read Proficient Motorcycling. If your Proficient Motorcycling book isn't dogeared and torn, you haven't fully taken advantage of it yet.

EDIT: Additionally, the golden rule of braking and leaning being mutually exclusive isn't entirely true. Nick Ienatsch's book is awesome and really talks about how you can brake in turns, but you just can't grab a fistful of brake and expect anything good to happen.

Additionally if you take MSF ARC, at least the one I took, there's an exercise in braking while leaned over.

Upvote for Proficient Motorcycling recommendation. It's a great book, for anyone who wants to learn to ride well.

Sport Riding Techniques: How To Develop Real World Skills for Speed, Safety, and Confidence on the Street and Track
More Proficient Motorcycling

A ring terminal harness is this product from battery tender. You can use it with battery maintainer as well as charging accessories like heated gear or a power outlet.

I don't know what conference call is, I'm assuming it's having more than 2 people daisy chained into a conversation. My riding buddies use it but I never have. Only thing I use it for is music and the occasional phone call.

My gloves are completely waterproof as I'm sure many on the market are. I wouldn't worry about a little rain unless it is a downpour where you will be riding all day.

Not hard. Do you want the super easy and lazy way?

Get a battery tender quick disconnect and then get the usb port that plugs directly into it.

Quick disconnect: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

USB port: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DJ5KEF4&pd_rd_r=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0&pd_rd_w=ANaFZ&pd_rd_wg=QpvAv&psc=1&refRID=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PNZFZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These plus the triple flange add ons work well for listening to music and acting as noise cancelling. A little pricey, and you can spend more if you want some more bass or clarity. They work well under my helmet.

So many upvotes because this is such a common thing for riders. I already had a bike when I met my girl but my parents were very anti and still are. I just make sure that I'm never in an accident (or it's as low a percentage chance as possible). This is what I do/did:

1. ATGATT
   
2. Take the MSF course
   
3. Practice panic stopping, swerving, etc in an empty parking lot.
   
4. Understand the physics at play and test them (i.e. step 3). There are some good books on amazon, I really liked this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=1889540536&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19KF7X31CBHS2TET8VG2
   

If you want a few tricks under your belt this is a good book

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072

And it's always a good idea to find a big ass parking lot and practice your skills, do tight circles, emergency stops from cruising to highways speeds, and anything that you might identify that you can work on.

Stay safe out there, riding is the most fun I've ever had, cheers!

You may be leaning plenty already (for the street). The pegs on a sportbike are situated differently from those on a cruiser, and the amount of lean required to drag them may be more than what you need.

You might want to concentrate on skills specific to sportbike riding - yes, they are different from cruisers. (For example braking is different due to a different weight distribution between the front and back wheels.)

Keith Code's book is excellent.

In terms of having something to charge a battery without taking the seat/unscrew everything, you could get him something like what you've linked but I would opt for a SAE connection cable. SAE connections are much more common for accessories (like chargers or USB connectors) than the BMW cigarette style.

This is what I have on my bike for battery tenders and separate USB plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498076141&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+cable - $6

You could easily get him this in addition to whatever else.

edit - fixed link

I have an Icon Airmada helmet and a Sena 20s. I hated the speakers that came with the helmet. I have had to RMA them twice now. I have started using a pair of IEMs with mine. Specifically I use a pair of Shure se215s I had sitting around. The IEMs act as both earplugs and speakers. I can really hear what is coming in music, phone calls, anything else. They protect my hearing like plugs do.

They are inconvenient as I have a cable dangling down my front, but I always just zip that up in my jacket and get riding. The specific headphone extension I own kept falling out, so I zip tied it into place. I had gone through three, shorter extensions, but they kept failing on me at the bottom of the reinforcement.

The IEMs I also chose because they are relatively low profile, and they loop around the back of the ears so they resist pulling out when I put my helmet on. I also ride with a neck gaiter pulled up over the back of my head as well. I run the IEMs up to my ears, pull the neck gaiter on and then shove my helmet on top of all of that. I personally love IEMs anyways, so this was about as good as it can get for me.

http://i.imgur.com/uOfn1gv.jpg

My IEMs I am using

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494288411&sr=8-3&keywords=shure+se215

You need to go to the track. Track days are friendly to even the most novice of riders.

Also, I recommend this book, and this one.

I just want to reiterate how helpful Hough's book was for me as a new rider. I would recommend Proficient Motorcycling to any rider, novice or experienced.

Also, you should learn about (and how to avoid) the SMIDSY

Alright dude, get the blue ones. These things are cheap and work wonders, very comfortable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003A28OW6/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a [tank bag] (http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/motorcycle/S1000RR/1250216.html) that is for the BMW S1000RR, my friends asked where I got it and how useful it is, and also they commented how it just fits the bike and does not standout like other tank bags.


This [ram mount] (http://www.amazon.com/Ram-Mount-Motorcycle-1-Inch-Black/dp/B001RHVS8I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421034910&sr=8-1&keywords=ram+mount+triple+tree) with this [cell phone holder] (http://www.amazon.com/Cradle-Holder-Universal-X-Grip-Cellphone/dp/B0055PH0XA). You can use the ram mount with other ball joint mounting system such as placing your action cam on it for a bike's PoV shot.

If you're losing air, I've had good success using one of these on the 250. To each his own, though. A lot of people aren't comfortable riding on plugged tires. I'm cheap, and I still make sure to check the pressure before I go out as well.

Yes you can. To make it easier by negating the need to pull off the seat or panels to get to the battery, get yourself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1/185-9216454-3055567?ie=UTF8&qid=1449857423&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+pigtail

Oh, Snake wasn't referring to a brand. Slime is fine for brand. Snake is the type of kit, with the "strings" or whatever they are called, I have always heard them called snakes haha. this type of patch As sold here Also for a pump I have this one Its nice with the flexible hose so you can push it against the ground with your weight. Also the gauge is nice so you know when your done, I have tested this up to 100psi had no problems. It rides in my bag while I dirt bike, so it holds up well to abuse.

Edit, I just decided to check, and go figure your bike might have tubes... I don't know for sure, one site said this:
Custom has no tubes.
900 Classic, 900 LT, and 1500 Classic have tubes.
1500 Nomad, Mean Streak, and all 1600 and V2K are tubeless.
If you has tubes then the snake kit wont work. Also a tube repair roadside on that bike might be a bit extreme... You have to pull the wheel off, pull the tire off the wheel, patch the tube with a tube repair kit, then reinstall it all. I do this on dirt bike tires all the time, but with a road bike, I wouldn't bother trying. Just hope you don't catch a flat on the go.

Keith Code's training movie based on this book is available as a 7 part series.

Highly recommended whether you're the kind who takes your bike to the track or to the canyons. I would recommend that you purchase the DVD, it is a worth while investment.

Yeah, this is the one I bought. There is another one I just saw on amazon when I was getting the link for the one i bought that has the x mount with the silicone holder along with the ball socket arm and a u bolt set up for mounting to the bars. Here is that set up

I have a Samsung s6 edge and the silicone part is pretty tight. I think any phone that is bigger might be too big to fit.

Edit: i screwed up the links, fixed now.

I recommend this if you're gonna leave it plugged in, easier than taking off the seat!

This is what I used on my repaint. Holding up great so far!

Battery Tender Jr.! I leave my KTM on trickle with this little thing and it's fantastic.

Here is an amazon link for you, although keep in mind it's amazon.ca - https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487196980&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+jr

Ram stuff is totally worth the price. Start here and click through. You might get lucky and find they have an exact holder for your device. If not I used the X-Grip both on my HD (LOTS of vibrations) and now in my truck.

It is an '82 XS400 special. It ran from 77 to 82. I have drag bars, but left all the cables the original length. The horn bracket got flipped upside down so I could access it/install a new one. I made a bracket that attaches to the bar running down in front of the engine to hold to LED fog lights, run by an auxiliary switch. Painted and wrapped the headers and have emgo shorty mufflers. Emgo pod filters, and a puck-style filter for the breather tube nipple. Led tails, led indicator lights, Upgraded headlight. Point of note on the headlight, mine was a sealed beam halogen. So to add a new bulb you have to buy an aftermarket reflector housing from candlepower.

EDIT: Also forgot Oury grips, cafe mirrors, new fuel lines, fuel filter and vacuum tube.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CA6E56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T0ITF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HAQGO20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00230QCIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VFL0SO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDYB3P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UVME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZUJGG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKKSTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEGQQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGKKMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SK7N8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCIO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these, Howard Leight LL1, 32 NRR. I replace them after a full day, I can't imagine using them for a week. I also use them for shooting in indoor ranges (I double up with over-ear pro there) and they're really effective.

Disposable ear plugs aren't meant to be re-used, that's why they're so cheap, they lose their elasticity and don't conform to your ear as well after the first couple uses and become much less effective, even if you think you can't tell a difference.

Well, you pretty much summed up how I learned to ride. There's not much more to it than that. Knowing what I know now, I would add in "Buy the Proficient Motorcycling book."

Best $20 I ever spent. Or you know.... library.

http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199

http://www.amazon.ca/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1933958359

Best book on the subject that I've ever read.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B006X387ZS/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all
Bought this same setup last week. The small universal X-grip (UN7) works for the the average smart phone, yours included. I have the galaxy S5. A thick case like an otter box might be too big. I believe the item description gives the maximum and minimum measurements for phone height and width.

I charge my Hero4 using a skeleton case and this adaptor. Works perfectly.

I use the NoNoise Motor series. They have a ceramic filter instead of just being foam throughout. I love them.

Nonoise Motor - New Generation Ear Plugs - Ceramic Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dshLyb9448AW7

Truly! No, not, but dude... recognize you got really lucky that didn't go a lot worse and learn something from it other than that KTMs are sweet. That mistake could have killed you. Or don't, I'm not the boss of you.

Edit: Good reading if you haven't come across a copy yet. http://smile.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425319807&sr=8-1&keywords=proficient+motorcycling

Or just get more batteries with a charger kit like this, which I got for my Drift Ghost and really saved my bacon on the long trip I just took. I was able to film and take pictures with a camera mounted helmet and charge the extra batteries in my bag at the same time. They make them for GoPro too.

Might I also suggest a battery tender cable with fuse, SAE to female cig adapter if you don't want to attempt any soldering or rewiring, and to charge your phone and other electronics SAE to usb adapter

David Hough's Proficient Motorcycling is also a great book.

Make it your business to be safe on the bike and never lose your head. The world is scary, both on and off the bike, so ride defensively within your comfort zone.

Could also see about doing more classes at MSF.
Or read some into the activity, I bought Proficient Motorcycling to read in my spare time when I first got my bike 10 or so years ago? I never finished it but it seems like a decent enough resource.

I also spray painted my r6, and used this for the gas tank. It's full 2k clear in a can with hardener that activates when you push the button on the bottom, so you can spill all the gasoline you want on the tank and it'll still be okay! :D

I am not seeing how this is any better or cheaper then just getting a second tender. If you want a project they have at it, but the simple solution is a second tender.

https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485380436&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

I have one of these that I could get this fella to connect to. Should be good enough plus it's easy to get the bike's battery charged up if you don't ride for a few weeks.

I recommend getting leads with quick connect, so you can attach a battery tender if need be.

I also have a 12V/120V to USB adapter with USB cables under my seat so I always have a way to charge my phone on overnight trips.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO

and then the leads in the add on items.

http://www.amazon.com/Cradle-Holder-Universal-X-Grip-Cellphone/dp/B0055PH0XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425673005&sr=8-1&keywords=xgrip+ram+motorcycle

ram mounts are nice. this one also needs the attachment to your bike.