(Part 2) Top products from r/mpminidelta

I picked up several 5" mirrors from Joann's yesterday, and thought to also pick up a can of Tacky Spray (https://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Purpose-Tacky-Adhesive-11-Ounce/dp/B001689P10). The tacky spray has enough grip to hold the mirror to the printing bed, and also appears to create a great grippy surface for my prints. I just sprayed a bit over the top of the mirror, let it sit for 15 mins (during initial warm up) and it works great so far. I've done 4 prints without having to re-spray it, and the prints still release just fine.

For the bottom Fan, i printed a modified base i found on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747339) and used a 120 fan with a 3pin to 2 pin adapter(included with the 40mm fan I bought), for the hot end i printed a modified fan duct also from thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3471759) to mount a 40mm noctua fan and spliced the original 30mm fan connector onto the "omnijoin connector" included in the box with the 40mm fan(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

So I use Cura with my printer, but there's some stuff you have to do first.

1. Use a 4gb or smaller FAT32 formatted microsd card. I've been using this one successfully, but you may find other brands that work as well. You can also use the 256mb card that came with your printer, as most printable .gcode files aren't too big, if you already have an adapter.
   
   
2. Copy the text g-code from the cat print to a text file on your computer.
   
   
3. in cura, manually enter the dimensions, speed, etc. for your printer as a new custom printer.
   
   
4. in settings, there should be an area to use custom g-code header and footer. take the g-code header and footer (should be commented as such in the text) and paste those into the boxes in Cura.
   
   
5. enjoy printing.
   
   The biggest thing for me in getting my printer to work was switching to only using the microsd card instead of the USB connetion, and taking the g-code header and footer from the cat print and applying it to all of my cura slices. At work currently, I'll try to take some screenshots of the screens and stuff that i'm referring to in cura.
   
   Edit: Couple images to illustrate the process: https://imgur.com/a/Wibxzft
   
   From cura: go to settings, then go to printers, then select Manage Printers. Select the MP Delta Mini profile that you've created, and hit Machine Settings. then put the cat header and footer in and voila.
   
   Edit 2: If you've lost access to your auto00.gcode, I've made a paste with just the header and footer information. find it here: https://pastebin.com/DtZyuc1H

This is what I use and my glass doesn't move a muscle
ARCTIC - Thermal Pad, Thermal Compound for Coolers, Highly Efficient Thermal Conductivity,Gap Filler, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply (145mm x 145mm x 0.5 mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0cYsDbYF4R8ZT

What size binder clips are you using? Is the bed free to move still up and down?

The bed needs to be free to click down in order for the autoleveling to function. I noticed that when I tried using "mini" binder clips, the bed was unable to move freely in order to trigger the button that the autoleveling routine uses to check whether the tool head is in contact with the base. Sure enough the nozzle would just slam into the glass bed using this.

What you need are "micro" binder clips. This will still let the bed move freely and autolevel correctly. I am not sure what country you are in, but these are the ones available in the US I got.

I got a 10a upgrade. The printer cannot fry itself. In fact, if it was designed correctly, it shouldn't be able to draw more power than the stock power supply, but giving it the availability to pull more amperage is only better. I wouldn't waste the money on 20 amps as that's way overkill.

Here's the supply I went with. The MiniDelta uses an odd sized barrel connector so if you go with this one you'll have to handle that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the fan for the electronics in the base, don’t worry it isn’t an affiliate link. It’s the Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX and it makes a big difference... However, the steppers are still super loud and so is the hot end fan.

Noctua NF-A6x25

I myself purchased this to solve that issue, and it works wonderfully. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RUV75D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pf45AbDCK7VVT

Hatchbox yellow
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GRREW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0AiwCbF2GTDNQ