(Part 2) Top products from r/mr2

I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.

It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.

Thanks, this is what I'm using - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DX6BRK/

The best part is that the included bracket lines right up to the MR2's fog light mounts, so it mounts almost perfectly flush.

I am not using the fog light connecters. The kit comes with a fused control box that draws power directly from the battery. You can also wire it so that it shuts off when the headlights come on.

I switched from Hella E-Codes to Vision X about 5 years ago. Well worth the switch! The Hella E-Codes after time the mirrored finish inside the light assembly would crack and flake making for dim light output, and at $100 a piece it wasn’t worth having one new housing and one old. In my Vision X housings I run the MORIMOTO 2STROKE 2.0 H4 with amazing light output and a cut off line that is very similar to the standard halogen bulb that the housing is meant to take. I wouldn’t recommend being one of THOSE people and sticking LED’s/HID’s into a standard halogen housing without a cut off line, no need for the light to go EVERYWHERE, and blind people.

I am in the process of a winter project converting a extra set of the Vision X housings into true projectors with the BI-XENON: MORIMOTO MINI H1 STAGE III, hardest part from splitting the headlight lens from the housing is making sure the cut off is lined up perfectly before tightening everything down.

I have a AW11, but the light housing and fitment is the same as the SW20 just slightly different install.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0764571427/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415709378&sr=8-1

Written by a MR2 owner, it covers basics for any car but it is useful if you are new to diy car stuff.

I have this shift knob on my 86'. Good quality and not too pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Accessories-PTR04-00000-06-Leather/dp/B004BASJZI

Maybe something like this? I'd assume a miata would be similar deminsions. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GL8DFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521431630&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=miata+car+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=41iFrGs-%2BkL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Tanabe-T50019-Downpipe-1990-1995-Toyota/dp/B004QO2UAE/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1519003534&sr=8-14&keywords=tanabe+mr2

High quality part made in Japan, works well on my car.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Down-Pipe-For-1990-91-92-93-94-Toyota-MR-2-3S-GTE/182458596425?fits=Model%3AMR2&hash=item2a7b613c49:g:cyoAAOSwB-1Yp0hl&vxp=mtr

Chinese replica, I can't attest to the quality of this one

oops, turns out my Amazon search omitted the 4agze from my search so they aren't the correct ones. I just learned a lot about pulleys, and this appears to be the Toyota part number 13570-16010.

Check this one out, it may be what you need. Hayden-Automotive-5003-Tensioner-Pulley

Ordered these from Amazon. They are available.
Centric Parts 117.44030 Brake... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZXMGI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Around 2 mm wider.

It's this one right here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ES9U5Y

Soaking with kroil and compressing with a C clamp doesn't do it. Clamp stretches outwards.

Depending on what coolant's in the car now, it's a 2 or 3 year change interval, so it's probably due for a change anyway. For the time being though, you can hook a couple of hoses up to those air bleed points, and see if you get bubbles out of it. Depending on how low it is, you can bleed the bubbles out and buy yourself a bit of time until you can get it flushed, refilled, and bled.

While you're at it, you should replace the thermostat and it's gasket too, it's a 40k maintenance item and replacing them requires draining the coolant anyway. Mine was failed open when I replaced it, so the car couldn't warm up to operating temp. Which I suppose was good, because I was also low on coolant...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C18Q4Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Two of those and aim them right, shit is bright as fuck for me.