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Responding to your comments mostly... sorry for the wall of broken up text..

Attaching a gopro is more about the thrust of the quad than the strength of the carbon fiber. I would guess you could attach one to either build.

They will both likely be "overpowered" for you, but yea you'll grow into it.

I would argue the Racerstar ESCs are also more reliable than the Eachines.

If that's the matek with the OSD that shows your battery voltage, it's a great PDB (around $13 right now I think).

Haven't used an F4 board yet, but recently upgraded to the SP racing f3 and I sure do like it.

Props are cheap anyways and you'll be buying more at some point.

The Monster FPV cam should work great for you, there's a $25 clone of the HS1177 on banggood that would also work well.

Your vTx looks good. Make sure your antenna match the vtx port (sma or rp-sma) and check whether you need male or female.

YES get the 65C batteries. Though that rating isn't held to a standard for marketing them, you'll want some nice high-C, 4S batteries. I suggest both these Tattu 4S 1300mah batteries on amazon for around $25 (the price changes), and those infinity graphene 4s batteries on banggood (though it looks like maybe they took them off their site?). Get a few batteries, you're not going to want to have to charge every 5 min of flight you get.

I hear great things about the IMAX B6 charger here, but I personally use this Charsoon Antimatter 250W charger and love it. I grabbed a nice balance/parallel board for it and can charge 4 batteries in about 45 minutes. Just get one that people haven't had many problems with, and learn to safely charge lipos. Otherwise, there's a fire risk.

I have both the EV800s and the VR D2s. Got them for the same price (~$50) and like the VR D2s a bit better. But really, the EV800s are great. Again, make sure you get the correct antenna upgrades.

If you'll want to be flying a lot right away, maybe try to get 4 batteries. Otherwise I'd start with 2 if that's all you can afford, and get more later.

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS3X1BF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V5MVAECJYWCD&psc=1 (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786FQJ7F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VMS4C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZTBUF0TDJOMN&psc=1 (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0W2NOS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZJBTAG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4&psc=1 (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:

Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1
Whoop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P5777Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3GZUGKBRUI9VM&psc=1

Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

Tattus are really nice, but they can be pricey, graphenes work really well, and nano techs aren't bad either, Nanotechs are a little cheaper than the Tattu and Graphenes, any of them would be a good choice, I do think that Tattu would be pretty durable, as well as the graphenes, they both seem to have some protection measures built in such as the steel plates in the Tattus
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MW0WZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462293523&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=4+channel+lipo+rc+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=51u7%2Bki0NRL&ref=plSrch

That's the charger I use, however I think there's a 1 channel version if you don't need 4, it does a good job though and will automatically trickle charge(it basically drops the amps when the battery gets closer to full, pretty standard thing for lipos, you can fast charge if needed) and balance well

Also have you already built it ? I run raceflight and it's a night and day difference you may want to look into getting a CC3D revo to do raceflight

> I ended up with a bunch of 550mah 3S batteries: can I use them to tinker with this build?

I suspect you would get a minute of lackluster performance from those batteries on a 5" quad. However, those are great bats for a 2" build. So save them.

> Battery options once I'm 100% ready to fly?

Amazon sells Tattu and Infinity Graphene 1300 mAh 4S batteries that would work well with your rig. Ensure you get a high C rating (60+).

> Prop options?

Those DAL props are great. Other options are the HQ 5x4.3x3 props.

> Extra wires?

I have never needed to buy extra wires. You'll collect plenty from parts you buy.

> I feel much more comfortable dealing with this kind of merchant.

There are other reputable merchants with US stock at competitive prices. Examples are heli-nation.com, getfpv.com, racedayquads.com, etc. The amazon/ebay merchants are mostly just buying from the overseas guys and upping the price. But I understand the sentiment.

As far as checking your build. You'll probably need to buy an XT60 connector and wire to solder to the FC/PDB (Like these). You'll need need some battery straps (Like these). You'll need a vtx antenna (rec: Foxeer).

Do you have a battery charger?

Do you have FPV goggles?

I'm happy to help! The people on here were awesome when I was just getting started so I'm glad to pay it forward. If you are not planning on flying FPV (First Person View) than the rest looks good! The charger I got is HERE and has worked great for me. The only issue is that is does not come with the power brick that goes from the wall to the charger, but instead comes with power cord that can be hooked to a 12V LeadAcid battery with two clips to power the charger. I would personally recommend going to a hobby shop and picking one out so that you can get exactly what you need (plus shopping locally is always good). That, or if someone else on here can recommend another charger/power adapter to go with this one since I am still a little new to all this myself. The only other thing I saw is that the battery you picked out comes with a XT60 connector to power your quad, but the kit you got appears to have a Deans connector for your PDB (power distribution board). You should pick some of THESE to solder to your PDB instead of the Deans connector so it will work with your battery. The item I linked comes with one male and one female connector. I used the same ones for my build and they have taken a beating but still work great :)

I think this kit might be a better deal. I have the same kit and it's wonderful. Flys my gopro/gimbal, amp data link, and a 2200lipo just fine (6 min flight times). http://www.altitudehobbies.com/iflight-frame-combo-kits/iflight-i450b-450mm-quadcopter-flight-combo

I love my APM boards, and would recommend one in a second. But save your money now, that's something you can upgrade later. Get off the ground with a cheaper FC and see how everything goes.

Edit: Charger I own 2, they work well - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_BnNIwbFQYR1R8

[Formatted Example Response Post]

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00

Notes:

• You can get a much better radio. I recommend just adding to your budget. It's worth while. Search /r/multicopter for reasons why it's better! And the total only comes up to about $430.00 if you can wait for FPV.
  
  
• If you want to add FPV eventually, you need to have an amateur radio license (technician level at least) to operate legally.
  
  
• There are always additional little costs such as heat shrink, battery straps, etc.
  
  
• Try to supply all my parts from the US. Mainly for shipping speed reasons! ;) The parts on this list that aren't from the US are the Radio TX and the Camera. The Taranis radio can be bought in the US, and the boardcam probably can too for a bit of a premium.

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | | $453.00 CAD

Notes:

• Many of these parts go in and out of stock from domestic vendors. It is recommended that you shop around and find the best option for you.
  
  
• This build comes out below your budget by quite a bit. While you will have to pay for shipping and such, I would advise that you put some of those extra funds toward more props and batteries... you're going to need them.
  
  
• This kit will require some soldering. You can pick up a fairly cheap iron and some solder/flux (I recommend .03-.05) off amazon or from your local hardware store. I would advise practicing for a bit on some old electronics. Thrift stores are a great place to pick up an old motherboard if you don't have any laying around. Soldering is not very difficult and I was able to solder all my pins and other components after just an hour or so of practice!
  
  

It's always worth buying the best tool you can afford unless it's single use. I have a decent weller that I've since replaced with a very decent Hakko.

This is a very nice iron that will serve you well: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1204

This is my older iron, served me well, the only reason I switched to the hakko is because I bought one for work and ended up liking it: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462577050&sr=8-1&keywords=weller

Well the there just seems to be few good straight to the wall chargers, this one has 2 channels and decent power but also costs a 100$ https://www.banggood.com/SkyRC-D100-ACDC-Dual-Balance-Charger-Discharger-For-RC-Models-p-971647.html?rmmds=search

If you are willing to get a bit more complex by getting an old server power supply from amazon that changes AC voltage to DC voltage and then buying an DC to DC charger you can get a lot more for the money and most good chargers seem to be DC/DC.

here is a huge power supply for 27$. it can power multiple chargers so if you get deeper into this hobby you can add chargers but just use the one power supply. https://www.amazon.com/HP-403781-001-DL380-1000W-Supply/dp/B001U0EM1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496370584&sr=8-1&keywords=server+PSu

This charger has alot more power and also puts out more current for balance charging than other chargers in it's price range.
https://www.banggood.com/ISDT-Q6-Plus-300W-14A-MINI-Pocket-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-1103946.html?rmmds=search

The last piece of the puzzle is a parallel board so you can use the one charger to charge 6 or more batteries at once.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Parallel-Balanced-Charging/dp/B016DHUJZO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496370715&sr=8-2&keywords=xt+60+parallel+board

Perfect!!! I decided to use that!

Can you let me know if you see any problems with this list?? Anything I can improve?? Anything I don't need??

Frame, PDB, FC, Motors, ESCs

Extra XT60 Battery Connectors

Props

Standoffs

2mm Gold Bullet Connector

Cable/Zip Ties

DIY FPV Kit

Tx/Rx

Tx/Rx to USB Adapter

Drone Battery 1 (heavy) 2200mAh

Drone Battery 2 (light) 1800mAh

FPV battery 1500mAh

What's the cheapest way to be able to get voltage to show on my FPV setup?

-Would I be able to use this voltage checker/warning buzzer?

What about a cheap lost model buzzer/discovery buzzer?? Can I use a switch on my Tx to make the alarm sound??

Is it overkill to get 3 batteries total?? 2 for the drone (So I can keep flying when one is charging) and 1 for the FPV reciever/display?

Thanks for the help!!

trying to do the exact same thing! I'm thinking about using my phone as the googles in a cardboard setup. Here's my parts list, please critique!

transmitter tutorial http://flitetest.com/articles/diy-micro-5-8ghz-fpv
receiver tutorial http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=64#tutorials
frequency stuff http://blog.oscarliang.net/5-8ghz-frequency-bands-b-e-f-different-brand/
another tutorial http://blog.oscarliang.net/diy-micro-fpv-setup-vtx-camera-v2/

On the quad:

fpv transmitter | bangood | 12.99

fpv camera | bangood | 10.89

3 way DIP switch | optional

antenna | use wire?

On the ground: (with google cardboard + phone)

usb capture adapter | bangood | 6.59

micro usb adapter | amazon | 4.99

rca to rca coupler | amazon | 2.19

receiver | amazon | 17.14

power adapter | HK | 1.99

2S battery | HK | 5.04

2s battery charger | HK | 27.47

Battery cable | HK | 2.99

Costs:

HK total | 37.49

amazon total | 24.32

bangood total | 30.47


TOTAL | 92.28



This seems like a lot of money to drop for what seems like it will be a fairly janky set up. Will this even produce a good experience?

If you have never flown before this is an excellent choice - https://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers-Copter/dp/B00MNG37C2/ It doesn't cost much, you can hammer it into the ground and objects and it keeps asking for more. Nothing about it is particularly exciting, but it gives you a great intro to the hobby. Extra batteries and charger are a must.

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

Poster Putty great when you have delicate items to solder, holds stuff in place without having to mess with grippers and clips.

Gorilla Clear Tape I use it to keep my RX in place and under all my ESCs in combination with zip ties. Some of the stickiest stuff I've found yet and I run a sign shop so I deal with adhesives all the time.

I started with that same frame. Its a tight frame to work on. No way you'll get that 30 x 30 AKK VTX to fit.


I would suggest this frame (no personal experience, yet):
https://www.amazon.com/iFlight-Cidora-Squish-Freestyle-Carbon/dp/B07W6L249N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1BSSAVGTQ97E3&keywords=iflight+frame&qid=1573651923&sprefix=iflight%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-4

If you stick with the Rooster clone, then you will need a VTX like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AKK-X2-Ultimate-Switchable-Compatible-Configuring/dp/B07DPG5H1T/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=fpv+vtx&qid=1573652145&sr=8-6
Its what i currently have in mine.

I would also change the FC to the Matek that was also mentioned.

The RunCam Eagle is full size and will fit.

The rest looks good.

If you arent dead set on the parts you have already choosen you may want to consider something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YACIDNU?keywords=emax%20250&qid=1451850415&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I bought one of these when I build my first quad recently and was quite pleased with it.

This kit does not include standoffs for mounting PDB and FC though, i just picked some up from ACE hardware.

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

If you want an upgraded soldering station for not much more, the Aoyue 937+ is a really great temperature controlled station. I think the temp control is worth the extra $22 on something that will last a lot of projects, though others may disagree.

[Unformatted Example Response Post]

• Frame - ZMR250 - $38.00 (http://multirotormania.com/frames/94-100-carbon-fiber-250mm-mini-frame-version-i.html)
  
  
• Motors - SunnySky 2204 2300kv (x4) - $84.00 (http://multirotormania.com/motors/577-sunnysky-2204-2300kv-brushless-motor.html)
  
  
• ESCs - MRM 12A SimonK (x4) - $46.00 (http://multirotormania.com/12-amp/385-mrm-2-4s-12-amp-simonk-esc-.html)
  
  
• Flight Controller - Naze32 - $22.00 (http://multirotormania.com/32-bit-/296-dragonfly32-acro.html)
  
  
• TX/RX Combo - Turnigy 9x - $60.00 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8992__Turnigy_9X_9Ch_Transmitter_w_Module_8ch_Receiver_Mode_2_v2_Firmware_.html)
  
  
• Batteries - 3S 1300mAh 30C (x2) - $22.00 (http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/batteries/3s-lipo/30c-1300mah-3s-xt60.html)
  
  
• Battery Lead/Connector - XT-60 Battery Lead - $6.00 (http://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Balance-Helicopter-Quadcopter-Battery/dp/B00L42H0B0/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1427221212&sr=1-2&keywords=XT-60+Lead)
  
  
• Propellers - GemFan 5030 (x32) - $19.00 (http://ubuyadrone.com/propellers/5-props/5030/gemfan-5x3-propeller-2xccw-2xcw-black.html)
  
  
• FPV Camera - Sony Boardcam- $26.00 (http://www.surveilzone.com/fpv/fpv-camera/sony-super-had-ccd-600tvl-fpv-ir-block-camera-2.8mm-lens)
  
  
• vTX/RX - Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz - $40.00 (http://www.valuehobby.com/fpv/fpv-tx-rx/boscam-ts58200-and-rc5808-set.html)
  
  
• Screen/Goggles - 7" LCD - $28.00 (http://www.amazon.com/RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427204173&sr=8-1&keywords=7+lcd+monitor)
  
  
• PDB - Simple PDB - $10.00 (http://multirotormania.com/power-distribution/410-simplepdb-for-minis.html?search_query=pdb&results=12)
  
  
• Charger - Imax B6 - $26.00 (http://www.getfpv.com/batteries/battery-chargers/imax-b6-digital-lipo-nimh-battery-balance-charger.html)
  
• Total before tax/shipping: $427.00
  
  

  Notes:
  

• This build is slightly over budget but it includes a few things that will be one time purchases. Transmitter and battery charger should not need to be replaced any time soon!
  
• I included several sets of propellers as you will likely go through these rather quickly. They are fairly cheap but you will need a lot of them!
  
• Most of the products listed here (especially the SunnySky motors) can be found from authorized dealers for lower prices. If you're willing to pass up the convenience of purchasing from very few vendors you will be able to save a decent amount of cash!
  

You should start with a Syma x5c-1 or a hubsan x4 to start out with. They are about $50 and you will want to crash those when you are starting out. Crashing your 250 will get expensive quick. After you get about a month or so of stick time, then start looking into your 250 build. If you want, hubsan also makes an fpv version which is super fun to fly, but its around $100. Let me know if you have questions!

Syma

Hubsan

FPV Hubsan

I'd rather go with this kit then: Amazon UK

The rx/tx isn't too bad, but maybe you should get a 9x. Swap the charger for an imax b6ac. Get 35c 1500mah 3s for starters.

Edit: lipo alarm is a must without telemetry, shrinkwrap, double-sided foam tape, and a decent soldering iron are a good investment as well

Thanks for taking the time to respond. That GPS was absolutely my mistake. Clicked the wrong listing on ebay. Already replaced it on an updated BOM. Definitely will mount it up and away from the electronics. Though the more I think on it I may just leave it off until i get used to normal flight.

I may still prefer the LEDs for orientation purposes. At least in the beginning. Theyre cheap enough. Same thing with the buzzer. My updated BOM has one that has the LEDs and Buzzer together.

This is the charger. Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs w/ LCD Display Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WLWcBb8SSM3YM seems to come with everything i need but I can get a beefier supply if you think its wise. Pics have the included one at 5 Amps.

Ill look into the making the smokestopper as well. Thaks again!

I use flux on everything I solder and it helps a lot.

I bought this in 2015 and have built MANY quads and other electronics, still half of it left. A little goes a long way.

You need a male to male RCA connector for the FR632 to go to the Quanum V2s.
http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Male-Coupler-Connector-Adapter/dp/B007PQ0K1G/

You need M3 standoffs to mount the flight controller.

Don't forget batteries and a battery charger if you don't have one already and all the little things like heat shrink, zip ties etc. You can cross check with this list I put together for my first build: http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=4#partlist

These wont fit half his motors if they have self-tightening caps now.

http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Nuts-Threads-Team-Losi/dp/B0006O2F9E?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Best of both worlds--nylock nuts that go both directions.

This is the charger I use:

http://www.amazon.com/HiTec-44167-Plus-4-Port-Multi-Charger/dp/B005MW0WZO

and here is a video of a guy talking about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jgtlo4Kc8Q

This is the charger I'm planning on getting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FGWY54/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3IAN4VN1Q26HU

I have zip ties, wire, soldering irons, heat shrink and everything else.

awesome, thanks! I think I've mostly got it figured out now, and I believe I need 4 parts total...

• drone (BNF model, not PNP, so it comes with a FrSky receiver)
  
• battery (seems to not come included... whatever)
  
• video receiver (narrowed down options)
  
• transmitter (and adapter plug thingy if I go with non-FrSky?)
  
  drone:
  
  
• https://www.geekbuying.com/item/EMAX-BABYHAWK-R-Racing-Drone-BNF-with-Receiver-390291.html
  
  battery:
  
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/JJRC-7-4V-450MAH-35C-Lipo-Battery-JST-Plug-For-Emax-Babyhawk-FPV-Racer/122562788413
  
  video receiver options:
  
  
• 1- decent integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV100-720540-5_8G-72CH-FPV-Goggles-With-Dual-Antennas-Fan-7_4V-1000mAh-Battery-p-1182469.html
  
  
• 2 - cheaper integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-Pro-VR007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-4_3-Inch-Video-Headset-With-3_7V-1600mAh-Battery-p-1134154.html
  
  
• 3 - receiver for cellphone plus google cardboard equivalent
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG02-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Dual-Antenna-Audio-FPV-Receiver-for-Android-Tablet-Smartphone-p-1242422.html
  
• with
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Headset-KAWOE-Virtual-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07546GT3X/
  
  
  transmitter:
  
  
• this is where I'm a little confused why FrSky is so much more expensive than 'FlySky' but whatever, I don't think I want to get into external modules so I should probably spend the $105 to $125 on a Q X7 which should be compatible out of the box, if I understand that description right
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/
  
  
• https://www.banggood.com/FrSky-ACCST-Taranis-Q-X7-2_4GHz-16CH-Transmitter-White-Black-p-1112717.html
  
  
  SO net net for drone + battery + VR + transmitter I'm looking at around $140 + $15 + $80 + $100. Ballpark $350.
  
  If it all works out I guess that's not so bad. And when I lose the drone, I'm only down $150, not all $350.