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I have a 3 gallon Walstad tank in my office with a couple of live plants (Anubias and a random grass-type), a filter, and a heater. Started with 5 Cherry Shrimp, but after a few bouts of eggs, am currently around 25-30 with more on the way. The setup is similar enough where I can share my own experiences.

• I prefer minimal-looking rimless square-cornered glass tanks like this one. Unfortunately, they're still fulfilling Kickstarter pledges and are not being sold to public yet. If you can find something similar (tank only, ignore the add-ons), I'd say go for it. This 2.7g also looks good, but is slightly too big. They're easier to clean and don't scratch like plastic ones do. Water evaporation is pretty constant, but if you do weekly/bi-weekly water changes, it shouldn't matter. Alternatively, you can find plastic 1g tanks with lids that are made for betta-fish. They'd also be good for shrimp.
  
• My filter is hardly ever turned on (5 minutes in the mornings to get some water circulation), so you may be able to get away with no filter as long as you have live plants and do weekly/bi-weekly water changes.
  
• A heater is pretty important. I've never been able to keep happy shrimp without one. ~75 degrees ambient room temp would probably mean ~68 degrees in the tank. They'll survive, but will be slightly lethargic and will not breed.
  
• Any desktop lamp should be sufficient if you choose easy-maintenance, low-light plants and use the suggested Walstad potting soil. Make sure you sift out large pieces of debris unless you like the natural messiness it gives. Also, I've noticed potting soil makes for a more pungent tank. Carpeting plants will be close to impossible without CO2 of some kind. I've tried to use liquid CO2 in the past, but could not get plants to carpet successfully. Java moss and Marimo balls are good choices for plants. Look into other low-light plants like Anubias. Drift wood provides good grazing for shrimp and works well as focal point for aquascaping, but fresh wood will leach tannins into your tank water and give it an amber/sepia hue.
  
  From my experience, you need 3 constants for Cherry Shrimp to be happy: temperature, food, and water quality.
  
  
• Temperature: My heater is set to 74 degrees. They're silent and only kick in when the temperature falls below a certain threshold. I can't imagine anyone would give you a hard time for having it in your tank.
  
• Food: Cherry Shrimp like to graze on organic matter that grow on top of surfaces. An established tank should have plenty of this. I've gone weeks without adding food and letting them survive on just grazing. But I've only had shrimp successfully breed by supplementing their grazing with more food. Currently, I add crushed up pellets of Crab Cuisine every other morning. They sink, making it ideal for shrimp.
  
• Water quality: I do bi-weekly 50% water changes. Remember to use a water conditioner and try to keep the temperature similar.
  
  Crystal Red Shrimp are too delicate to work in a 1 gallon tank and Amano Shrimp get too big. Cherry Shrimp and various snails should be fine as long as you have enough surfaces and organic matter, and let the tank mature for a few weeks first. They'll also readily breed where Crystal Red Shrimp and Amano Shrimp won't.

Hi :)

I was going to say good choice on the Marineland tank. I would say depending on what you want to put in there you might want to make some mods.

first with this hidden filtration tank, you will want to set the water pump to the LOWEST setting... because of the footprint water gets pushed around quite quickly stressing fish with long fins out... i.e. betta which is really good with this tank if you can get the water flow just right (they love swimming up and down and playing).

Second if you want shrimp, note the vents in the back of this tank are large enough for them to crawl in... so you might need to improvise and add a 'slab' of filter floss in front of the filter tray that comes with the tank... it gets a tiny bit tricky for the 5 gallon because the tank is quite tall...

finally tall tanks or square tanks do limit your choices of fish to less active nano fish. As with shrimp, nano fish will need to have filter floss added in the compartment behind the return vents. Fish like tetras would not go well in this tank since they like swimming over long distances - prefer long tanks.

Your heater doesn't appear to have the ability to set the temp. Not sure where you are geographically but assuming your room temp is around 20-23c your heater probably set in at about 24 to 25c. Either way a pre-calibrated to 'tropical fish' heater limits your choices in fish. i.e. red cherry shrimp can do ranges between 16c - 27c but seem to thrive in 22c. your heater choice might make them uncomfortable. In addition, while the Marineland instructions say don't put the heater in the back, you can if you know what you are doing - such as pushing the heater down lower and using proper suction cups so it sticks to the wall and doesn't touch anything such as the plastic pieces. The heater I would recommend which is slightly more pricey but comes quite recommended is the Hydor Theo 25w.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

Also I would say skip the air pump, since the tank you added has a nozzle that can be angled at a wall in a way which creates
signficant surface tension and proper oxygenation in the tank. the way the glass lid fits creates a pretty nice fit so the pump cables coming out would just detract from the clean looks. If you put the air pump in the back compartment, its pointless since you can't see the 'cool bubbles' and also reduces the amount of volume of water in the back. From a filtration standpoint, you want more water to pass through the back than less for better filtration. Hence I recommended the Hydor since the heater is extremely short for an adjustable thermostat heater.

Hope that helps! A bit long I know.

EDIT: another thing, i noticed you are looking at a 50w heater... that is totally not necessary, unless you keep your room way below 20c and need to keep your at 30c. Also from experience, i find the tank circulates the water fast enough that I find the tank warmer than the thermostat on the heater. It could be a faulty thermostat, but the heater works perfectly fine in my long tanks (matching to my digital thermometer without any issue).

Yes, not as easy as that seems. For beginners they always say larger volume is better/the solution is dilution...
But, if you want to get a simple 5.5 gal going, you can definitely do it. I don't know where you are but in the states, they have kits, which I've only seen with a black plastic lid where the light is attached inside/under the lid. I got this once because it was on sale... and I ended up tossing the lid, buying a glass lid and light on amazon and it is a great set up now.
And depending on if your fish like water flow, you might get a different filter. So, here's an example:
Light from Amazon will fit on a 5 gal tank and is less than 20 quid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get a glass top if you can but be sure it fits (over here the topfin set tank didn't fit the aqueon lid I got!).
Don't know if you have Cobalt Aquatics 25 watt adjustable heater, but that's probably the best in that size that is adjustable. But I paid $40 for mine (although I just saw one on amazon for $25).
And you can choose between a sponge filter or a hang on back filter.
Pros for sponge are less turbulent water(unless you have really big bubbles)/Cons-it doesn't suck up any of the crud/mulm that might be in the tank... like I don't like the dust from the Catappa leaves (as they decay) I add to some tanks, so I don't like to use them in sponge filter tanks.
Pros for HOB filter, greater flow, can overfilter a tank allowing for a slightly higher bioload (like I have a filter for a 30 gal on a 10 gal that has Endlers livebearers 'cause they breed so prolifically and I have to sell them back to my LFS periodically so it's overstocked). And it sucks up mulm and shedded needles from hornwort and cabomba plants (unless I put a prefilter sponge on it). Cons--if you have baby shrimp or fry they would get sucked up without a prefilter sponge. All 3 of my 5.5 gallons have HOBs ranging from an Aqueon 10 for the fish that like flow to a small Deep Blue Nano filter for fish that don't like flow.

Hope this helps and sorry if it was too long!

It's more depends on the floor space and the shape of the tank, than on gal. Larger floor pace is better, 2.5-3 gal will allow to keep more shrimp, neocaridinas are reproducing fast. Even 1 gal bowl could be used, but try to see your shrimp there. The same setup is described as a Walstad method in Jarrariums subreddit.

I wouldn't use sphere, too little floor space.

Cylinder better to be at least 10" diameter.

I was able to get 12" wide shallow clear glass punch bowl in the Value Village, but this is a matter of luck.

Walmart should have half moon aquarium kit, 3 gal, looks good, small footprint (13x6" or so), good enough for my more than 60 blue dream neocaridinas (moss tank with vertical aquascaping and moss wall, aLift sponge filter). Or at least 1.5 gal cube, fair enough, but you can keep there less shrimp. Kits include air pump and air driven filter, light is too weak for plants, use desktop lamp. Amazon.ca has 3 gal version of it.

But if you have Big Al's store nearby, you can get 5 gal glass tank (with black rim) for CND $20, or a rimless 12" cube for $40-45. Tanks in $100+ price range could be ordered online.

Canadian PetSmart has either worse tanks or more expensive, at least it is so near me.

Either use Walstad method with rooted plants, or as Marks Shrimp Tanks on youtube.

Tom Aquatics internal filter could be used without cage, just protect intake by gutter guard mesh with filter floss, it's the smallest available pump. Or, if tank is not a sphere, Azoo Mignon 60 HOB filter. Sponge filters are the cheapest and provide grazing area for the shrimp, but they take place in the tank. If you would be using this, vertical kind would be more suitable than the chunky wide common sponge filters.

Air pump with tubing, without air stone, could be used for moving water.

I was inspired by this picture that i just ran across while looking at aquascapes in google image search. I wanted to make something tiny, but that would actually be big enough to be functional for more than a few minutes :P


The display works perfect, and it looks really nice sitting on top of the black base meant to hold the ball, looks all professional like its supposed to be that way. I'm going to cut a clear acrylic piece to cover the top so my cats don't drink from it.

This little filter fits in there just fine too, if you wanted one. It takes up almost no space inside the tank, but does stick up from the tank a bit. i'll get a picture in a little bit.


Edit: here is the filter on the tiny tank.

I've found a few things that could do the trick. I still feel like something smaller would be more ideal, but a filter would now be preferred.

I'm tempted to buy one of each and see the performance differences. I will let you guys know what I get. I literally have to wait for my wife to give me my allowance on Friday, ha!

Hydor Pico Evo-Mag 180 Circulation Pump with Magnet Mount, 180 GPH

Penn Plax Cascade 170 Internal Filter for Aquariums

Govine Aquariums Underwater Mini Filter 3-Gallon

Aquarium Internal Filter For Fish Tank Multi-Function Submersible 3/8/16W NEW

Mini Aquarium Power Filter Waterfall Water Pump Fish Tank Hang On Slim Filter

I'm also looking into building my own. Alibaba (or a similar store) has some tiny motors that I could attach outside and then I could try to figure out a magnetic solution. A 3D printer setup would be more ideal for something like that and I don't have one. I'm still pondering this idea, I don't want to end up over my head.

Go for a tiny canister filter and hide it under the tank! All you will see are a small intake and spray bar/outflow tube. This is a good one, SunSun HW-602B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter. For a SUPER clean look get a set of glass "lily pipes" for the intake/outflow. Don't be intimidated by a canister filter they really work great and are easy to maintain, I only rinse out my filter material every 3 months on my Fluval 406 on my 40gal.

https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1520309624&sr=1-2&keywords=NANO+TANK+FILTER



THIS IS LITERALLY THE BEST.

You can alter the flow to your liking as well :)

Its acrylic but i got it for a great price around black friday on Amazon

Tetra LED Cube Shaped 3 Gallon Aquarium with Pedestal Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Eu-MAb7SYPXMB

This is a great filter and small enough that it would probably hook easily over the lip even though the tank is round, unless you're planning to use something really tall and narrow.

If you're looking for an external filter, I've heard great things about [this nano canister filter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRPU) thought I haven't actually used it myself. Might be too much power, but I think it's the smallest canister on the market.

You might also consider going air pump powered, there are some nice small air powered filters like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU). You could also consider [this mini undergravel filter] (https://www.bigalspets.com/lee-s-round-under-gravel-bowl-filter-large.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp53073&sc_intid=53073&gclid=CjwKEAjwvr3KBRD_i_Lz6cihrDASJADUkGCaTTOFNe6J9_Z6EqRUbX8hjIOqi6ntn6gkZNujK11ziRoCKP_w_wcB) (and just ditch the fake plant) but I know most folks tend to stay away from UGFs in planted tanks.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the info. I ended up purchasing this tank with a 50W heater. I'll look into dosing liquid CO2 and will definitely get a turkey baster

Are you using CO2?
This is the one I almost bought.

NICREW Super Bright LED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Blue and White LEDs, 6W, Fits Aquariums 40cm in Length https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01HI42E18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7npaCb6GZVNDB

O wow don’t even think about this style of pump.

How many watt is that motor is strong enough?

I saw what I think is the same one in amazon and some ppl mentioned is weak about 5watts.

I also found this one way more $$

Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zDy8Cb8B215N4

Not sure how many watts it the cascade.

Or you say that SunSun is all I need?

I have this filter in a small shrimp tank (some have said it works great w/o the filter as a small powerhead) and this sponge filter in another shrimp tank.

I had that canister and it was defective ., ended up replacing with eheim classic (40g) for 12 g long. I found it to be a little underpowered honestly and think it would be good for yours - I also use this super affordable sun sun canister on a 10g and like it very much . Tech'n'Toy SunSun HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6t9yCb1XV3NZP

there are some very quiet pumps now and the sponge filter will be the shrimps fav place to graze. https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520297185&sr=8-4&keywords=uniclife+aquarium+air+pump i use that turned wayyyyy down. the bubbles make more noise than the pump does lol. i mounted the pump with zipties under the tank to the stand and i put a piece of a towel cut to size between it and they stand to absorb vibrations. been running well over a year and no issues.

This one hands down. Customizable with whatever media you want to filter with and you can control the flow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032G8TPW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Fzone-Aquarium-Regulator-Solenoid-Standard/dp/B07T3S2W6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=aquarium+co2+regulator&qid=1571243415&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPRlMxOEhaTDBIVUkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NDUxMzkxOTg0Wk1BQU1WTFE5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NjI2OTIxTDNST0JRNE8wRzUzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

That regulator adapted onto a 24oz paintball tank.

Here you go.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VRM0Cb8F305VV

Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights, Cliplight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ik2xCb0R8M8CS

I found this one completely silent:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003QZF7JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485218915&sr=8-1&keywords=zoo+med+10w+bulb&dpPl=1&dpID=41sQLjx5auL&ref=plSrch

Its the Tetra cube 1.5g.

I'm thinking about replacing it at some point with this because it's got some scratches on the front.

Just a quick tip, if you put a word in brackets [like this] and then the link (in parenthesis) with no spaces, you get a cleaner looking link

But im with you on the sponge filter. Thinking of setting up a nano for work and still trying to decide how much to spend.

It's just a ~1 gallon bowl I had that I thought looked cool.

Yes, I'm using a Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano filter and a 50W Aqueon Preset heater. They're both way overkill for a bowl this small, but I have the heater on a control circuit of its own to keep from boiling the shrimps if it fails, and the filter is baffled to slow the outflow.

This one is dead silent and you can control the flow rate for a betta. Even full speed is okay for a betta fish