Top products from r/obs

We found 21 product mentions on r/obs. We ranked the 34 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/obs:

u/Trexid · 1 pointr/obs

To save yourself a lot of time I recommend throwing money at this if you want to stream from your laptop successfully.

http://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Portable-Capture-Xbox360-60Mbps/dp/B00B2IZ3B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407285581&sr=8-1&keywords=live+gamer+portable

I bought one last year when it was on sale and its great.

Good luck!

u/Cyntax3rr0r · 1 pointr/obs

If you're getting another platter drive, just about any 7200rpm drive will do. The Western Digital WD10EZEX is cheap, reliable, and benchmarks at around 160MB/s. That would be fine for recording 1080p 60fps.

If you're getting SSDs for your OS/games disk, I've used both the Samsung 850 EVO and the ADATA Premier with great results. Both of those systems have 2 SSDs in RAID 0, for double the read/write speeds. That's not necessary, but it is cool to have over 1GB/s in read/write.

Either option should help with the hard drive bottleneck. I haven't checked benchmarks for your 4590, but that's a relatively new chip. You could always add more RAM, but only if you deem that you need it. H264 likes to eat memory. That will improve your encoding times if you're editing your footage in Adobe Premiere or Sony Vegas. I think you should be fine after recording to a separate drive though. If you're still having issues, it may be aggressive/overly demanding settings in OBS.

u/iniquous · 4 pointsr/obs

Not knowing anything about your setup I'm going to guess it's a USB bandwidth issue, not power. Not all motherboards are created equal in that some will include more USB controllers (different than ports) than others. The controller can be "split" with a hub, but based on the number of devices across that controller they must all share bandwidth. My first recommendation is to try switching the devices to different USB ports to see if you can get them all happy at once. Don't try to run them all off the same hub because that guarantees the same controller.

Edit: assuming this is your issue and you're on a desktop with a free pci slot:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=asc_df_B00HJZEA2S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10427848564261723381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058138&hvtargid=pla-441634214285&psc=1

Is going to be your "end all" solution. Each of the 4 ports has its own usb controller so even a device which uses the whole bandwidth will stay happy plugged in there. I've done a lot of fighting with Oculus Rift and Kinect2.0 which are bandwidth-hungry devices (most HD cameras/capcards over usb are) and this card laughs at usb problems.

u/johnypilgrim · 2 pointsr/obs

High lumen LED light bulbs like these, or building your own key light with LED strips is the way to go.

They all run extremely cool. When using bulbs, you'll want something like a positional desk lamp so you can spotlight areas that might have shadows and blast them out of existence.

That's the super budget way to go.

u/nolageek · 2 pointsr/obs

Honestly I think the more reliable, best looking option would be to get a couple of cheap Logitech 270s along with the macbook cam as the primary.

Two of these are cheaper than the $44 manycam license:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Widescreen-designed-Calling-Recording/dp/B004FHO5Y6/

And you could probably resell/return one or both of them when you're done and get some of the money back.

You may want to get other opinions though, since I'm not super familiar with Macs and using multiple cams like this.

u/Mr401blunts · 1 pointr/obs

Edit: for anyone who comes across this save yourself some headache. Find one component that will do everything that you want. because there are a lot of limitations with Asio4all and you might not be able to get sound.

I still have not found a solution to this.

Trying to get a Behringer 404 HD to talk with a creative sound card and AB/virtual cable using Asio4all within FL Studio I was unsuccessful in getting any sound to pass through to the card.

You can use FL Asio or Asio driver that comes with the card if it has one. But you will not be able to Output to a different Source or have a different source of input.

If anyone has had any luck actually getting this to work please message me and let me know your settings.


___

DAC was what i have been looking for.

After digging a bit deeper I'm may very well stick with the PCI just because I'm running out of USB ports.

Any recommendations internal or external?

I could just buy the 50$ card but i like how much this one puts out compared to others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073HT4GM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522443903&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sound+blaster&dpPl=1&dpID=31PrI84vKLL&ref=plSrch

So far I have not encountered any issue as far as noise or interference from other components.

u/JordanFox2 · 2 pointsr/obs

You have to get yourself a capture card.

The setup will pretty much be this : Gaming PC > Capture card > Recording/streaming PC. There are 2 main types of capture card; PCIe and external.

Elgato and AVerMedia are 2 companies that make them although I am sure there are others as well.


u/kpopper2013 · 1 pointr/obs

Besides the splitter cable, another solution is to use the optical output on the back of the console. You'd have to get some equipment to convert the SPDIF to RCA/3.5mm headphone (example) and input it back to your computer/elgato. But you're also not tied down this way.

e: I found a good overview video by Elgato here. Also Elgato has a video covering the Chat Link product here.

e2: The slim ps4 dropped the optical output so this method wouldn't work if you have a slim.

u/millk_man · 1 pointr/obs

I mean you could, or you could run a stream on this PC since it's $150 (I have one and it does a 1080p60 stream pretty well)

HP 8300 Elite Small Form Factor Desktop Computer, Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core, 8GB RAM, 500GB SATA, Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit, USB 3.0, Display Port (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CV9G1BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ks0vDbHMARSM3

u/lukeman3000 · 1 pointr/obs

Sure... Any suggestions for a mic? I was looking at this one...

So in addition I should probably get an arm for the mic, and what else? Maybe a pop filter? Anything else?

u/KVYNgaming · 1 pointr/obs

You should just try to get a different microphone then. Try taking a look at this:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4

You'll notice that the background noise is drastically reduced.

u/jaegerfps · 2 pointsr/obs

Yes, a new power brick might solve the issue IF its because of your power brick malfunctioning and being unable to discharge the build up. However,


> I have some questionable power outlet hub/duplicator whatever you want to call it

leads me to believe that you are using something like this and have removed the grounding plug on that so that it would be compatible with an ungrounded outlet. I see students do this a lot, especially in old dorms and apartments. This can be initial cause of the damage and unfortunately could have damaged the internals to the point where a new power brick won't fix your issue now.

u/Dimitriosisa · 1 pointr/obs

Not sure if this will help you, but when I had these problems, switching out the cable for a one with a higher gauge really stopped it for me. Here is the one I bought (it’s not that expensive so you’re not going out of your way. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRSL6OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gv5PAbNEAEAQZ