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I have this case: co2CREA Hard Carry Travel Case Bag for MDF/ 3M Littmann/Omron Stethoscope, which carries my Let's Split (with acryllic sandwich-style cases) or my Preonic (with its sandwich-style case). Both keebs fit perfectly and have sandwich-style cases with the standoffs around the perimiter of the boards.

Fun Fact: It's great to carry your Atreus in as well.

glad I could help.

This is the cable I am about to order. From the comments, it looks like others have used it for this purpose, so it should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRW4HQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2GSG8HYTBG5UW

This is what I got and it works pretty well. Try adding a little more solder so the wick can get better access to what's left and take it all away.

FWIW, I use this thing to reset Pro Micros.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-7A-SA-Stainless-Non-Magnetic-Heavy-Duty/dp/B00FZPFF96?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's not what bought it for, but works perfectly for shorting RST and GND on Pro Micros.

And because /u/woodkeys_click asked in the r/mk post, the case is a Caseling Hard Case for Stethoscope. It's funny how perfectly it fits the acrylic sandwich cased Let's Split.

It's about 5x7 and I just bought one for fun. For anyone else interested: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wireless-Keyboard-iPhone-Computers/dp/B0044IGBOI

Also, you can try Kynar wire 30 AWG. It works great. Optional, but well worth it, is 10mm x 1mm White Double Sided Self Adhesive Sponge Foam Tape. That will insulate the strip from the PCB. As long as it 10mm it will work. You can search for other deals if you want.

That looks like a lot of solder from the picture. Maybe try ordering one of these, I found it to work better than a solder sucker...

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aegZzb1ZWPPJQ

I get these, but there are better ones! Namely anything with 3M on them.

I used a pair of cutters from this amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great for flush trimming stuff.
I think I saw some of those at home depot last week if you are in the US and are near one of those...

As /u/Harakou commented, make sure to have desoldering materials. But for desoldering several switches at a time, I had trouble making progress with a regular solder sucker (the braid is very useful for small scale rework). So I bought a desoldering iron for several Planck and Ergodox rebuilds.

And to add to /u/deaconblue42 , a flux pen helped me a lot whenever I struggled to get good wetting action (watch the videos, it's a thing).

Yeah I think my Pro Micro is busted. Literally everything I've looked up has said that it should be detected by windows. I've also tried on a linux laptop but it didn't seem to work either. Any tips on going about replacing it? Do I need to buy a specific pro micro or can I just buy one that looks similar enough? I could get something like this on amazon prime and not have to wait ages for shipping.

Sadly I'll have to desolder everything in order to replace it Q~Q

I have found the solder wick to still be the best method for smaller holes (even switch holes for that matter). I initially tried solder suckers, even electric ones, and it was harder on smaller holes.

What brand is your solder wick? It could be that its not properly fluxed in which case you can buy flux and dip it in. It could also be oxidising if you left the copper bit out for too long.

I personally use MG Chemicals #4, I tried using a different brand and the difference was drastic, it did not absorb the solder at all.

yeah the one i have isn't so good. So i'm thinking of getting this guy

Helping hands: http://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-900-015-Helping-Hands-Soldering/dp/B002PIA6Z4

> Arduino Pro Micro

So you are saying this would work just fine?

Complete newb here

I have a Planck EZ. My understanding is that you still to flash the QMK firmware in this manner in order to achieve iOS compatibility.

My question is purely about cables.... I bought this on the off chance that it just worked out of the box with iOS. It obviously does not. Upon further research, I'm more worried about that I'm not getting a warning about power draw. Is this cable just wrong?

https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-SW02-10-No-Clean-Solder/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498946921&sr=8-2&keywords=copper+wick

I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019IZZKUC

This and this. Turns out the standoffs were a 50pc pack, but all the same more than the 16 I needed.

I am using this one

Stethoscope cases have different widths, the one you linked is one of the smaller ones at 10.8 x 2 x 4.3 inches. This one is 10.6 x 2 x 6.1 inches and others are different dimensions.

These work really well. They are a little bit bigger than the ones that come stock though.

The rubber feet are from 3m. I believe this is it. Sorry for the formating, on mobile.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NG60SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482437733&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=3m+rubber+pads

Use a solder sucker or some desoldering wick to remove the excess solder that is touching the logo.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00424S2C8

Still stuck with only one side working. Made sure to comment out "USE_I2C ?= yes" in the rules.mk file as I'm running serial. Red and green lights are lit up on both pro micros. Soldering of jumpers looks identical to /u/wootpatoot build guide pics. Using TRRS cable from Amazon

edit: I'm not exactly sure what it means to enable "define EE_HANDS" - I tried removing the #, but got an error "unknown type name 'define'" when I try to make a new hex. Is this where I'm messing up? figured out commenting out in .h files is to use // - no luck with it enabled or commented out and I've read all posts I can find on this issue. I'm soooooo close. It's been 4 nights in a row. I can almost taste the split...

edit: not sure if this helps troubleshooting, but when I connect to my righthand board directly all of the keys work except the 5th column (column with P at the top). Does this mean I have a soldering issue that could also be causing the disconnect between boards? https://imgur.com/gallery/7L7v8