Top products from r/overclocking
We found 79 product mentions on r/overclocking. We ranked the 287 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal Interface Material
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 6
Liquid Ultra thermal compoundEasy application100% metalIncludes cleaning kit
2. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 5
Thermal paste ideal for optimizing thermal conductivityThermal conductivity: 12.5 W / mkThermal resistance: 0.0032 K / WElectrical conductivity: * 0 pS / mContent: 1g
3. Enzotech Mosfet Passive Heat Sink, 6.5 x 6.5 x 12 mm, Copper, 10-Pack
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 4
Forged pure copperEasy installation by thermal tapeLow ProfileColor: Copper
4. Enzotech MOS-C10 Forged Copper MOSFET Heatsinks
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 4
Forged pure copperEasy installation by thermal tapeLow ProfileColor: Copper
5. Noctua NH-D15, Premium CPU Cooler with 2X NF-A15 PWM 140mm Fans (Brown)
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 4
State-of-the-art dual-tower design with 6 heatpipes and 2 fans provides class-leading cooling performance for overclocking or near-silent systemsSuccessor of the classic NH-D14; more than 250 awards and recommendations from leading international hardware websites and magazines2 highly optimised NF-A...
6. Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler, 4 CDC Heatpipes, 120mm PWM Fan, Aluminum Fins for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1200/1151
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 4
Air flow: 82.9 CFM; Noise level:36.0 decibelsFan Dimensions:120 x 120 x 25 millimeter (4.7 x 4.7 x 1 inches)Heat sink Dimensions: 116 x 51 x 159 millimeter (4.6 x 2 x 6.2 inch)
7. Noctua NH-D14, Premium CPU Cooler with Dual NF-P14 PWM and NF-P12 PWM Fans (Brown)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 4
Classic dual-tower design with 6 heatpipes and 2 fans provides excellent cooling performance for overclocking or near-silent systemsMore than 350 awards and recommendations from leading international hardware websites and magazinesPremium-grade NF-P14 (140mmm) and NF-P12 (120mm) fans with Low-Noise ...
8. Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3000 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 16GB (8GBx2) CL15 BLS2K8G4D30AESCK (White)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 4
Ideal for gamers and performance enthusiastsDigital Camo heat spreader available in white, grey and redAmd Ryzen readyOptimized for the latest Intel 300 Series platforms
9. Corsair Vengeance Airflow Memory Cooling Fan CMYAF
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 3
Bearing Type: Ball bearingFan Diameter: 60mmRPM: 3500/2500 (using included speed control cable)Noise level: 21.0 dB(A) (25 dB(A) max)Fan life: 80,000hrs/25 degree CVoltage: 7-13.2VWarranty: 2 years
10. Coollaboratory Liquid Pro Thermal Compound Paste Grease Syringe Style
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 3
32 w/mk
11. Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3000 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 16GB (8GBx2) CL15 BLS2K8G4D30AESBK (Gray)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 3
Ideal for gamers and performance enthusiastsDigital Camo heat spreader available in white, Grey and redAmd Ryzen readyOptimized for the latest Intel 300 Series platforms
12. P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
Sentiment score: 6
Number of reviews: 3
Choose from the Kill-a-Watt's four settings to monitor your electrical usageMonitor your electrical usage by day, week, month, or yearFeatures easy-to-read screenElectricity usage monitor connects to appliances and assesses efficiencyLarge LCD display counts consumption by the kilowatt-hourCalculate...
13. Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 (Not for Human) Temperature Gun Non-Contact Digital Laser Thermometer-58℉ to 716℉ (-50 to 380℃), Standard Size, Yellow & Black
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Better accuracy: The distance to spot ratio is 12: 1, meaning the laser grip 774 can accurately measure targets at greater distances compared to most other Thermometers; for best accuracy, the distance between the thermometer and object of measurement should approximately be 14. 17 inches (36cm)Targ...
14. J-B Weld 32329 Ultimate Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker and Sealant - 3 oz. - Black
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
ULTIMATE BLACK GASKET MAKER & SEALANT: Is an RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Silicone gasketing material made for use in mechanical assemblies where maximum petroleum & oil resistance is requiredWHAT THE PROFESSIONALS USE: Builders, mechanics & repair pros know our products bond strong to a variet...
16. Silverstone Tek 140mm x 38mm Fan for CPU Cooler and Computer Cases Cooling FHP-141
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
High efficiency system thermal solutionHigh air pressure and less noise with giant-bladed designLong-life dual ball bearing motorAdjustable dual mode operation-“Power” mode (500~2000RPM) and “quiet” mode (500~1200RPM)
17. EVGA Hybrid Cooler for GeForce GTX 980Ti Cooling 400-HY-0996-B1
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
All in one cooling solution that is completely self-containedIntelligent wiring system and sleeved tubing makes this one sleek cooler without the messy wiresVariable controlled fans allow dynamic fan speed based on GPU temperature, and the water cooling efficiency means very low noise fansCompatible...
18. Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (3.5g)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Renowned premium-grade thermal compound for optimal heat-transfer from the CPU or GPU to the heatsink; more than 150 awards and recommendationsEasy to apply (no need to spread before heatsink installation) and easy to clean with dry paper towel or tissue (no cleaning alcohol required)Trusted Noctua ...
19. Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Brown)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Premium quiet fan, 120x120x25 mm, 12V, 4-pin PWM, max. 1500 RPM, max. 22.4 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning 120x25mm fan with FocusdFlow frame for high static pressure and superior quiet cooling performanceIdeal for CPU heatsinks (e.g. Noctua NH-U12(S) series) and water cooling radiators, perfect...
20. Honeywell HT-900 TurboForce Air Circulator Fan Black
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Small fan for table or floor:The Honeywell turbo force air circulator fan has 3 speeds & a 90 degree pivoting head. This quiet fan is compact enough for on a table or wall mount & powerful enough to help provide comfortable cooling in small-medium rooms.Feel the Power: Honeywell's TurboForce line of...
Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.
Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.
Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.
As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.
H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51
No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.
I am going to guess that there are possibly other issues at play here, but that power issue needs to be resolved first and honestly I am not sure that a 650w PSU is going to be enough. If you are going to use a 650w PSU than you really should purchase a Kill-A-Watt meter from Amazon (link below) to confirm that power is OK.
​
GPU Boost can be interesting, but I would not worry nor would I waste anytime troubleshooting or overclocking the PC until you resolve the power supply issue first.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2DG585G2DJAM5&keywords=killawatt&qid=1557157054&s=gateway&sprefix=kill+a%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2
Cooler Master Hyper 612 Ver. 2 for $38 or Deepcool Lucifer V2 for $30 after $20 mail in rebate. I think those are your best options. You're still looking at marginally better cooling. Maybe 3-5C better. Delidding would be your cheapest option to gain the best results. You would need a vice, mallet or hammer and a small wooden block. You'd also want to pick up some CLU. Hopefully you know someone that has the vice, hammer and wood block. The CLU costs $10: https://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Thermal-Compound-Processor-Heatsink/dp/B0039RY3MM
It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.
I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.
Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.
These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.
On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.
The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).
Scythe Fuma: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-SCFM-1000-SCFM-1000-Fuma-CPU-Cooler/dp/B016XLGATE
Noctua NH-D15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00L7UZMAK
BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-Dark-Silent-Wings-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9
These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.
I learned to OC in the late 90' ( OK, not coiled foul). In early 2000's I started using thermal diodes on CPU, RAM and GPU. This will help you see the temps and either increase heatsink and fans or reduce your OC. A good thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly, Noctua NT-H2 or Artic MX-4. Which one you should use depends on surface. Some will damage aluminium, some have enough metal particals that can short your circuits if slopped over.
http://thermal-grizzly.com/en/
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1573504592&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Micro-particles-Durability/dp/B0795DP124/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-3
I Hope this helps you.
you could save up for 20$ more and you could get noctua nh-d15
it's the best non-watercooling cpu cooler. i've oc'd my 6600k to 4.5 ghz and my cpu is at 54°C under load. It includes high quality thermal paste. it's easy to put into the motherboard.
> I didn't have the faster speed on the back fan when testing, but I don't think it would make a massive difference.
You'd be surprised. I had a voltage limiter on my 200mm front fan to keep it at 500RPM, and removing that so it bumped to 800RPM brought my temps down by a few degrees.
Edit - also, stock case fans tend to be kind of cheap. I like to replace any stock fans with Noctua PWM fans. They're a little pricier than other case fans, but they use really good bearings so are really quiet even running at high RPMs, and tend to push more airflow CFM than other cheaper fans.
My understanding is that the power numbers reported by tools like HWiNFO64 are calculated numbers based on voltage and current sensors. So, the power numbers are only as accurate as those sensors. Some boards have decently accurate sensors/implementations, some do not. So, there's no generic way to characterize the accuracy of the power numbers. Some are OK, some are not.
The worst offender seems to be VCore sensors that are not close enough to the CPU package and thus because of vdroop between the sensor and the CPU at high current flow (a la high CPU load), they register incorrectly how much voltage is actually going into the CPU. Include that errant voltage in a calculation of power and the power number becomes errant too.
One way people examine the total power usage of their system under heavy load is to insert a power measuring device such as the Kill A Watt between your computer's plug and the wall power socket. This will tell you how much power the whole system is using at any given moment. Though the CPU is not the only power consumer through your computer's wall plug, it is the main one and if you factor in the efficiency of your power supply under load, you can get a rough estimate for how much power the motherboard is using (the vast majority of which will be the CPU). Though this won't tell you exactly what the CPU is using all by itself, it will provide a sanity check on these other measures of the power to see if they are in the right ballpark.
The coolermaster TIM will work fine, but if you want to get the most out of it, I'd recommend this stuff. It will work the best, but it will also bond the IHS to the core after it gets hot enough. There will be nothing else attaching the IHS to the rest of the CPU besides the socket clamp after you do this, you might want the stuff I linked for that reason alone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIRGB84
This is what I used for gluing down the IHS. It worked pretty well, I just used as thin of a bead as I could.
Great idea with the gauge too.
With respect to the comments about your VRM cooling needs, it's not difficult to make some gains in that area.
Get these: https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RF6KXHY2C8N48XRBQP9T
Apply them to your VRMs as illustrated here: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134104&d=1382197078
(the 10 modules in the red rectangle to the left of the CPU socket)
You end up with something like this: http://images.hardwarecanucks.com/image/3oh6/evga/x58sli/small/heat-6.jpg
There's always the option of a dedicated ram cooler, here are a few options:
Cooler|Pros|Cons|Price
:--|:--|:--|:--
Corsair Vengeance Memory Cooling|Appearance, fairly cheap|1 fan|$30
Gskill Memory Fan Turbulence III|2 fans, cheap|appearance|$25
Corsair Dominator Memory Cooling|Appearance, RGB, 2 fans|expensive|$65
I personally would go for the G.Skill as I feel that is the most bang for your buck, however if you care about the appearance I would get the Corsair Dominator.
Is this delidded? Are you planning to delid? With such a good bin, I'd be excited to see how good of an OC you could get if you weren't thermally limited.
I just got one with the AsRock Extreme 6, but I haven't yet found out how far I can push it on stock voltage. I'm using a Zalman LQ-315 cooler with the stock 50CFM fan swapped out for a monstrous 170CFM fan. My CLU (liquid metal thermal paste) is in the mail.
Just out of curiosity which cooler did you decide to go with? I have the ACX 2.0 version. So just above the stock reference. This has caused me to consider getting a better cooler for my card too. =)
Edit - was it this one? http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Hybrid-GeForce-Cooling-400-HY-0996-B1/dp/B00ZQ4PFX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459192749&sr=8-1&keywords=980+ti+cooler
You could always take the card apart and replace the TIM with this. It's the best non-metal thermal compound on the market ATM, and could drop your temps by as much as 10 degrees.
The cooler you keep your card the longer it will last. The 2 770's I upgraded from never went above 58 degrees and are still going strong to this day in my cousins computer, and they were bought in 2013, despite having a massive OC on both of them. Keep your cards cool and they'll last for such a long ass time. With the temps I get on this 1080ti, it should easily last 10 years...
I just ordered a cooler off Amazon. Is it a good one for my CPU? Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JGJ2Db1EXCQBA
Run it with the side panel off and the fan pointed inside. It is 100% going to fuck up the airflow in your case, but the static pressure of a desk fan is going to be orders of magnitude higher than most case fans, that the sloppy airflow matters a lot less.
I'm assuming you mean something like this:
Honeywell HT-900 TurboForce Air Circulator Fan, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0Gnwxb1PJA3ZG
Now i just need to decide.
These all look like good deals.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1000w-be-quiet!-power-zone-full-modular-single-12v-rail-cool-off-feature-3-fan-control-built
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1000w-nzxt-hale90v2-white-80plus-gold-full-modular-psu
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FLVIQQ8/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=04QMVKY1WDF9SFRW8A5F&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455344027&pf_rd_i=468294
Cool video that, thanks. The prospect of it drying hadn't crossed my mind until two reviews on amazon (UK) stated that it happened with CLU - maybe they did something else wrong? The links to said reviews are here.
Coollaboratory liquid ultra seems to be the most commonly used TIM that provides the best results.
That would be great. I put in every setting. It won't boot any higher than 3200mhz. I currently have Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3000 MHz
This one has always been very high at reviews.
It is liquid metal so don't use it on aluminium!
I use it on my i7 950 @ 4.0 Ghz with a thermalright true spirit 140 power and it reaches 60°C under full load.
If I'm not mistaken, this one has greater chance while being cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGPH9R9/ref=twister_B07Q9F2FMR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you were to lower the cost of your memory and completely remove your DVD drive (install Windows using a USB drive), you can pick up one of the NH-D14's. They're very popular and are just as good as Corsair/Asetek CLC's.
https://www.amazon.ca/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermal+grizzly&qid=1574942898&sr=8-3
Amazon, mate :)
Your method is insane btw... Currently testing 3800RAM 1900IF for stability. The heat really does matter.
I've been trying to look for ram fans and found this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMYAF-Dominator-Airflow-Cooling/dp/B00GU9UG9A
People say that you need to have good clearance for this to work though. And there is a pump on the left and a huge radiator on top so I highly doubt this would fit
So here's advice from my experience:
Hope this helps ya. If I missed anything, or my advice is wrong, feel free to correct me. I'm just giving my 2 cents off my experience.
I feel like you're better off with this solution. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Airflow-Cooling-CMYAF/dp/B00GU9UG9A/ no need to take your ram heat spreader apart.
How effective do you think these would do the job? https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK
IMO it's pretty shit for overclocking as it likely either incorporates Hynix AFR or CJR.
​
For around that price I'd go with Crucial Ballistix (AES SKU) as I was able to get them to 3733 cl16 with decent timings. They clock very well frequency wise and are the next best thing to b die imo - insane for the price.
yeah sorry bro, that is a nice cooler, should be doing the job. the only place you could go from there is an AIO but those cost. i hv a Hyper 212 Evo https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI. check if you are Current Limit Throttling in windows. you may have just reached a roof:(
https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK
These might work better to get the little ones in the corner near the io.
That's cutting it pretty close. Keep in mind that PSU's are generally rated at a higher temperature than your room probably is at, though.
You could buy a Kill-A-Watt and see how much power you're pulling as you overclock. As a rough estimate, overclocking power is generally linear with clockspeed and quadratic with voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU
It is only one gram of thermal paste but I doubt you’ll need more to reapply, luckily they’re cheap
I second this. It must be the VRMs. OP should buy something like these heat spreaders stickers and see what happens
I'd recommend Noctua, they beat some aio water coolers.
https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A/
https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-A15x2-Cooling-Premium-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/
Hey, I know this thread is a little bit old but I'm deciding on what ram to pick up for a new build. https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Single-PC4-24000-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B07MD3W585?th=1 Is this the same Micron E Die? Because it's cheap, and some people recommended it to me for having great overclocking headroom, but they don't know if they vary their SKUs. Is this guaranteed to be Micron E Die? Im just trying to hit 3600cl16 on 1.45-1.5v, thanks!
It's not powerful at all, it's a little $12 fan. The blown air is definitely cooler than the air in the case, the air is simply coming from the direction of the living room.
Would this work as well, i can get prime shipping
Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound
https://www.amazon.de/Ballistix-BLS2K8G4D30AESBK-Speicher-PC4-24000-288-Pin/dp/B07MGPH9R9/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
​
75 euro and you can decrease the price further with amazon coupons, they also went on sale few times this month.
Coolabratory Liquid Metal Ultra will do the job just fine. I run my 7700K @5GHz 1.36v (I know, bad chip) and it tops out at about 67 degrees after an hour of ASUS Realbench. That's with a 360mm rad
The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo gets lots of love for $32.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
I only listed the ones I've used myself.
The all in one coolers require no service and run in a closed loop.
No problem. :-)
105C might be the danger point, but that doesn't make 100C a healthy choice either. It looks like you have clearance for taller non-painted heatsinks.
https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C10-Forged-Copper-Heatsinks/dp/B004CL89D8
Ir gun
i used this exact one : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PE5XAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Crucial ballistic 3000mhz 15 cas , easely overclockable
Ballistix Sport LT BLS2K8G4D30AESCK 16GB Kit (8GBx2) Speicher Kit (DDR4, 3000 MT/s, PC4-24000, CL15, Dual Rank x8, DIMM, 288-Pin) weiß https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07MD3W585/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_wSCbwa8gab1FK
You can't beat the NH-D14 for $70. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A
I see 55-60C gaming temps at 4.6ghz with this cooler.
Windows 8.1 retail won't break the license, but Windows 10 and 7 will.
You should consider installing some heatsinks on your motherboards VRM mosfets, for example these:
https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C10-Forged-Copper-Heatsinks/dp/B004CL89D8?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
Isn't that what it is? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Hybrid-GeForce-Cooling-400-HY-0996-B1/dp/B00ZQ4PFX2
Should I swap to this?
cool master
There should only be one NF-F12.
Not the IIPC or whatever just "nf-f12 period"
Here is the link
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020062-UK-Series-RM1000-Modular/dp/B00FLVIQQ8/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1395643329&sr=1-3&keywords=coolermaster+v1000
Fully modular, 1000w, £140
did you have the same problems with the stock cooler? or did you not try it? if you never did you may want to try setting everything to stock then putting that on with the pre-applied thermal paste and checking whether it hits the same temps; it's not the best solution but it could help isolate the problem.
if you need new paste I like to use Noctua's paste
VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Do not use heat tranfer tape. It isn't safe. It will likely cause a short.
Use 3M Scotch Type 35 electrical tape It is Safe up to 105C and it is good to use on electronics like this.
You didn't mention what kind of thermal compound you were going to use. DO NOT use IC Diamond, Arctic Silver, or Liquid Metal. The first two will scratch the die especially IC Diamond (rarely but possibl arctic silver. Most people I know that are using TIM on a bare die such as the one in laptops use THIS.