Top products from r/overclocking

We found 79 product mentions on r/overclocking. We ranked the 287 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/overclocking:

u/DeBlackKnight · 2 pointsr/overclocking

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it-

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

u/EliteAssassin07 · 1 pointr/overclocking

I am going to guess that there are possibly other issues at play here, but that power issue needs to be resolved first and honestly I am not sure that a 650w PSU is going to be enough. If you are going to use a 650w PSU than you really should purchase a Kill-A-Watt meter from Amazon (link below) to confirm that power is OK.


GPU Boost can be interesting, but I would not worry nor would I waste anytime troubleshooting or overclocking the PC until you resolve the power supply issue first.


u/tamarockstar · 1 pointr/overclocking

Cooler Master Hyper 612 Ver. 2 for $38 or Deepcool Lucifer V2 for $30 after $20 mail in rebate. I think those are your best options. You're still looking at marginally better cooling. Maybe 3-5C better. Delidding would be your cheapest option to gain the best results. You would need a vice, mallet or hammer and a small wooden block. You'd also want to pick up some CLU. Hopefully you know someone that has the vice, hammer and wood block. The CLU costs $10:

u/He_Ma_Vi · 1 pointr/overclocking

It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.

I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.

Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.

These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.

On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.

The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).

Scythe Fuma:

Noctua NH-D15:

BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4:

These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.

u/JASTechnologies · 1 pointr/overclocking

I learned to OC in the late 90' ( OK, not coiled foul). In early 2000's I started using thermal diodes on CPU, RAM and GPU. This will help you see the temps and either increase heatsink and fans or reduce your OC. A good thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly, Noctua NT-H2 or Artic MX-4. Which one you should use depends on surface. Some will damage aluminium, some have enough metal particals that can short your circuits if slopped over.

I Hope this helps you.

u/cr3z · 2 pointsr/overclocking

you could save up for 20$ more and you could get noctua nh-d15

it's the best non-watercooling cpu cooler. i've oc'd my 6600k to 4.5 ghz and my cpu is at 54°C under load. It includes high quality thermal paste. it's easy to put into the motherboard.

u/tomkatt · 1 pointr/overclocking

> I didn't have the faster speed on the back fan when testing, but I don't think it would make a massive difference.

You'd be surprised. I had a voltage limiter on my 200mm front fan to keep it at 500RPM, and removing that so it bumped to 800RPM brought my temps down by a few degrees.

Edit - also, stock case fans tend to be kind of cheap. I like to replace any stock fans with Noctua PWM fans. They're a little pricier than other case fans, but they use really good bearings so are really quiet even running at high RPMs, and tend to push more airflow CFM than other cheaper fans.

u/jfriend00 · 1 pointr/overclocking

My understanding is that the power numbers reported by tools like HWiNFO64 are calculated numbers based on voltage and current sensors. So, the power numbers are only as accurate as those sensors. Some boards have decently accurate sensors/implementations, some do not. So, there's no generic way to characterize the accuracy of the power numbers. Some are OK, some are not.

The worst offender seems to be VCore sensors that are not close enough to the CPU package and thus because of vdroop between the sensor and the CPU at high current flow (a la high CPU load), they register incorrectly how much voltage is actually going into the CPU. Include that errant voltage in a calculation of power and the power number becomes errant too.

One way people examine the total power usage of their system under heavy load is to insert a power measuring device such as the Kill A Watt between your computer's plug and the wall power socket. This will tell you how much power the whole system is using at any given moment. Though the CPU is not the only power consumer through your computer's wall plug, it is the main one and if you factor in the efficiency of your power supply under load, you can get a rough estimate for how much power the motherboard is using (the vast majority of which will be the CPU). Though this won't tell you exactly what the CPU is using all by itself, it will provide a sanity check on these other measures of the power to see if they are in the right ballpark.

u/stevenwalters · 1 pointr/overclocking

The coolermaster TIM will work fine, but if you want to get the most out of it, I'd recommend this stuff. It will work the best, but it will also bond the IHS to the core after it gets hot enough. There will be nothing else attaching the IHS to the rest of the CPU besides the socket clamp after you do this, you might want the stuff I linked for that reason alone.

u/GoodKidSpence · 1 pointr/overclocking

This is what I used for gluing down the IHS. It worked pretty well, I just used as thin of a bead as I could.

Great idea with the gauge too.

u/nickthaskater · 1 pointr/overclocking

With respect to the comments about your VRM cooling needs, it's not difficult to make some gains in that area.

Get these:

Apply them to your VRMs as illustrated here:

(the 10 modules in the red rectangle to the left of the CPU socket)

You end up with something like this:

u/RiftBladeMC · 16 pointsr/overclocking

There's always the option of a dedicated ram cooler, here are a few options:

Corsair Vengeance Memory Cooling|Appearance, fairly cheap|1 fan|$30
Gskill Memory Fan Turbulence III|2 fans, cheap|appearance|$25
Corsair Dominator Memory Cooling|Appearance, RGB, 2 fans|expensive|$65

I personally would go for the G.Skill as I feel that is the most bang for your buck, however if you care about the appearance I would get the Corsair Dominator.

u/Sebaceous_Sebacious · 1 pointr/overclocking

Is this delidded? Are you planning to delid? With such a good bin, I'd be excited to see how good of an OC you could get if you weren't thermally limited.

I just got one with the AsRock Extreme 6, but I haven't yet found out how far I can push it on stock voltage. I'm using a Zalman LQ-315 cooler with the stock 50CFM fan swapped out for a monstrous 170CFM fan. My CLU (liquid metal thermal paste) is in the mail.

u/rootbeerfetish · 1 pointr/overclocking

Just out of curiosity which cooler did you decide to go with? I have the ACX 2.0 version. So just above the stock reference. This has caused me to consider getting a better cooler for my card too. =)

Edit - was it this one?

u/bobdole776 · 1 pointr/overclocking

You could always take the card apart and replace the TIM with this. It's the best non-metal thermal compound on the market ATM, and could drop your temps by as much as 10 degrees.

The cooler you keep your card the longer it will last. The 2 770's I upgraded from never went above 58 degrees and are still going strong to this day in my cousins computer, and they were bought in 2013, despite having a massive OC on both of them. Keep your cards cool and they'll last for such a long ass time. With the temps I get on this 1080ti, it should easily last 10 years...

u/dmel642 · 1 pointr/overclocking

I just ordered a cooler off Amazon. Is it a good one for my CPU? Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan

u/snorkelbagel · 1 pointr/overclocking

Run it with the side panel off and the fan pointed inside. It is 100% going to fuck up the airflow in your case, but the static pressure of a desk fan is going to be orders of magnitude higher than most case fans, that the sloppy airflow matters a lot less.

I'm assuming you mean something like this:

Honeywell HT-900 TurboForce Air Circulator Fan, Black

u/kitamijun · 3 pointsr/overclocking

Cool video that, thanks. The prospect of it drying hadn't crossed my mind until two reviews on amazon (UK) stated that it happened with CLU - maybe they did something else wrong? The links to said reviews are here.

u/TechTuts · 3 pointsr/overclocking

Coollaboratory liquid ultra seems to be the most commonly used TIM that provides the best results.

u/10pmStalker · 2 pointsr/overclocking

That would be great. I put in every setting. It won't boot any higher than 3200mhz. I currently have Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3000 MHz

u/Nasaku7 · 2 pointsr/overclocking

This one has always been very high at reviews.
It is liquid metal so don't use it on aluminium!
I use it on my i7 950 @ 4.0 Ghz with a thermalright true spirit 140 power and it reaches 60°C under full load.

u/Lavins · 2 pointsr/overclocking

If you were to lower the cost of your memory and completely remove your DVD drive (install Windows using a USB drive), you can pick up one of the NH-D14's. They're very popular and are just as good as Corsair/Asetek CLC's.

u/RIPSkelly · 1 pointr/overclocking

Your method is insane btw... Currently testing 3800RAM 1900IF for stability. The heat really does matter.

I've been trying to look for ram fans and found this one:

People say that you need to have good clearance for this to work though. And there is a pump on the left and a huge radiator on top so I highly doubt this would fit

u/SullyxSays · 2 pointsr/overclocking

So here's advice from my experience:

  • Research, research, research. You'll find a lot of videos online, here on reddit, youtube (when it's online Kappa), and on various websites. GamersNexus is pretty much the most trustworthy group I looked up to in terms of doing research the whole process
  • if you wish to relid your IHS to your CPU, use a silicon adhesive with high temperature resistance. I purchased "J-B Weld 32329 Ultimate Black". You do not need to apply a large amount; just enough to seal it up. I noticed what when I delidded my CPU, there's a small opening on the sealant- in other words, it wasn't fully sealed up- not sure why... (if anyone has any knowledge on this, please chime in. I, too, am curious.)
  • USE THE NAIL POLISH! The nail polish I used was the same one as GamersNexus used for their protective coat. Here's the Link: Nail Polish . You're going to want to use this to coat the small 4 dots, you don't need much, just enough to cover them up.
  • Everyone uses Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and I did as well. Shot 25 degrees down (had a 120mm upgraded to a 280mm). So this is where it gets sort of tricky because I messed up on my relidding- I didn't apply enough liquid metal to the Die. But still, I advise you to use only a small dot on the Die, spread it out, and apply another dot on the IHS, and spread it out as well. Don't flood the thing, start off small and slow.

    Hope this helps ya. If I missed anything, or my advice is wrong, feel free to correct me. I'm just giving my 2 cents off my experience.
u/foureight84 · 1 pointr/overclocking

I feel like you're better off with this solution. no need to take your ram heat spreader apart.

u/damaged_goods420 · 3 pointsr/overclocking

IMO it's pretty shit for overclocking as it likely either incorporates Hynix AFR or CJR.


For around that price I'd go with Crucial Ballistix (AES SKU) as I was able to get them to 3733 cl16 with decent timings. They clock very well frequency wise and are the next best thing to b die imo - insane for the price.

u/3studiog · 1 pointr/overclocking

yeah sorry bro, that is a nice cooler, should be doing the job. the only place you could go from there is an AIO but those cost. i hv a Hyper 212 Evo check if you are Current Limit Throttling in windows. you may have just reached a roof:(

u/moemaomoe · 1 pointr/overclocking

These might work better to get the little ones in the corner near the io.

u/JeffroGymnast · 5 pointsr/overclocking

That's cutting it pretty close. Keep in mind that PSU's are generally rated at a higher temperature than your room probably is at, though.
You could buy a Kill-A-Watt and see how much power you're pulling as you overclock. As a rough estimate, overclocking power is generally linear with clockspeed and quadratic with voltage.

u/Marcos340 · 2 pointsr/overclocking

It is only one gram of thermal paste but I doubt you’ll need more to reapply, luckily they’re cheap

u/Raw1213 · 1 pointr/overclocking

I second this. It must be the VRMs. OP should buy something like these heat spreaders stickers and see what happens

u/accounttobuypcstuff · 1 pointr/overclocking

Hey, I know this thread is a little bit old but I'm deciding on what ram to pick up for a new build. Is this the same Micron E Die? Because it's cheap, and some people recommended it to me for having great overclocking headroom, but they don't know if they vary their SKUs. Is this guaranteed to be Micron E Die? Im just trying to hit 3600cl16 on 1.45-1.5v, thanks!

u/eleanor110781 · 1 pointr/overclocking

It's not powerful at all, it's a little $12 fan. The blown air is definitely cooler than the air in the case, the air is simply coming from the direction of the living room.

u/aggie4life · 1 pointr/overclocking

Would this work as well, i can get prime shipping
Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound

u/notnerBtnarraT · 1 pointr/overclocking


75 euro and you can decrease the price further with amazon coupons, they also went on sale few times this month.

u/Pvt_B_Oner · 1 pointr/overclocking

Coolabratory Liquid Metal Ultra will do the job just fine. I run my 7700K @5GHz 1.36v (I know, bad chip) and it tops out at about 67 degrees after an hour of ASUS Realbench. That's with a 360mm rad

u/Bert-63 · 1 pointr/overclocking

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo gets lots of love for $32.

I only listed the ones I've used myself.

The all in one coolers require no service and run in a closed loop.

No problem. :-)

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/overclocking

105C might be the danger point, but that doesn't make 100C a healthy choice either. It looks like you have clearance for taller non-painted heatsinks.

u/arthurvdlinden · 6 pointsr/overclocking

Crucial ballistic 3000mhz 15 cas , easely overclockable

Ballistix Sport LT BLS2K8G4D30AESCK 16GB Kit (8GBx2) Speicher Kit (DDR4, 3000 MT/s, PC4-24000, CL15, Dual Rank x8, DIMM, 288-Pin) weiß

u/JustinMcSlappy · 1 pointr/overclocking

You can't beat the NH-D14 for $70.

I see 55-60C gaming temps at 4.6ghz with this cooler.

u/State_secretary · 1 pointr/overclocking

Windows 8.1 retail won't break the license, but Windows 10 and 7 will.

You should consider installing some heatsinks on your motherboards VRM mosfets, for example these:*Version*=1&*entries*=0

u/jbourne0129 · 1 pointr/overclocking

There should only be one NF-F12.

Not the IIPC or whatever just "nf-f12 period"

Here is the link

u/dragonbud20 · 1 pointr/overclocking

did you have the same problems with the stock cooler? or did you not try it? if you never did you may want to try setting everything to stock then putting that on with the pre-applied thermal paste and checking whether it hits the same temps; it's not the best solution but it could help isolate the problem.

if you need new paste I like to use Noctua's paste

u/salamachaa · 8 pointsr/overclocking


Do not use heat tranfer tape. It isn't safe. It will likely cause a short.

Use 3M Scotch Type 35 electrical tape It is Safe up to 105C and it is good to use on electronics like this.

You didn't mention what kind of thermal compound you were going to use. DO NOT use IC Diamond, Arctic Silver, or Liquid Metal. The first two will scratch the die especially IC Diamond (rarely but possibl arctic silver. Most people I know that are using TIM on a bare die such as the one in laptops use THIS.