(Part 2) Top products from r/overclocking

Yeah you're desk would probably work just fine. It shouldn't make a huge mess, it's not like you're using a power sander haha.

The CLU is just extremely hard to clean off copper, as in it bonds to it. You end up having to use some sort of abrasive to really get it off. With a lapped IHS, or lapped block, you'd probably end up having to "relap" it with some higher grit sandpapers (800+) to return to a clean copper finish.

You can certainly lap the H80 and GPU blocks, but I would take them off and check them with a nice straight edge first. I would also only use the Gelid on those coolers, the H80 and GPU blocks. It will be much easier to clean if future removal is required and Gelid is some highly rated stuff already.

I would seriously recommend using the knife/razor method to remove the IHS. Like the saying it's "so easy, a caveman could do it" lol. Buy an X-ACTO #2 knife handle and their #26 whittling blade. Or one of their kits that includes those since you'd get a lot more for your money if you had other uses. The #26 blade is the perfect length/width that you can easily judge how deep it's slicing through the glue, and long enough that you can hold it along the entire length of one side of the IHS after you cut through the corners.

Here's some crappy paint pics that should help explain the process:

Part 1 - http://i.imgur.com/MvYMYjL.png

Part 2 - http://i.imgur.com/J4Vc3C9.png

The reason I'm recommending the X-ACTO setup so highly is you have much greater control with the size of that blade attached to a real handle. Whereas if you used the typical loose razor blade like this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GWfZ_4BQK7s/hqdefault.jpg

or this:

http://s19.postimg.org/zco5sqnsj/image.jpg

is harder to control, harder on the fingers, and you risk using too much force and pushing through the glue too far. The X-ACTO handle eliminates this imo.

This image really helps illustrate how much glue can be on there, and where the die/transistors are in relation to everything. So use that as a clue when you start your cuts. Like I previously said, the size (width of the cutting edge to non-cutting edge) of the #26 X-ACTO blade helps with visualizing how deep your cuts are getting.

http://i.imgur.com/6or5ATh.jpg?1

Now if this sounds complicated or risky, please let me assure you it's not that difficult. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible with my explanation to help ease your concern. Using the method I described I had the IHS off in less than 5 min and I had never delidded anything before. The X-ACTO knife is so sharp. I mean it might feel like it takes more force than you'd think to cut through, but once it's off you'll be like "wow, that was easy."

This is the Liquid Electrical tape I used on the transistors after delid:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85120-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B003ERU04W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519375

This is a solid X-ACTO kit that has the blade and handle I'm recommending, but you could buy them separately for cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-X5028-Xacto-Do-It-Yourself-Set/dp/B000HGMA7I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519412

Sandpaper you can get anywhere. I'd recommend the 3M Wetordry stuff. They're usually sold in packs with different grit ranges and sheet quantity. Maybe you could get single 9x11" sheets of individual grits at an auto parts store or something though.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Something like this noctua: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D9L-Premium-Cooler-NF-A9/dp/B00PIPCFX2/

If you're looking for something small-ish but still powerful and quiet.

Noctua is pretty expensive though lol.

BeQuiet coolers are quiet and a bit cheaper: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-BK008-Heatsink-Intel-Sockets/dp/B00HPXZF2I/

Cheap 20 pounds Bequiet 3-heatpipe 92mm small heatsink, If you just want 4GHz and not more: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-BK008-Heatsink-Intel-Sockets/dp/B01KVNCEIG/

Can handle up to 1.33v~ ish maybe.

a better way to get better temps is to change the thermal pastes on your cpu and gpu(and at the same time, clean out the fans, and thermal fins). In terms of cooling pads, you're better off buying usb exhaust fans that you place behind the vents to suck out air. its loud though

also, im not sure if replacing thermal pads would help, it probably would, but very little gains, its up to you since thermal pads are pretty cheap too

edit: this is what i got for my laptop a while ago: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NACVLWM/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w

edit 2: Something to consider would be just increasing your cooling solutions. Instead of trying to overclock, try to control your temps so that your cpu/gpu won't throttle.

Another really expensive option would be is to email your laptop manufacturer if they would be willing to sell you a gpu upgrade. This is a really expensive option.
A cheaper alternative is to use external GPUs. I'm not really sure if you buy the housing and gpu separately or if its 1 whole package. If you can buy the housing separately, you'll have an option to choose a gpu that's not too powerful that your CPU will bottleneck

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIRGB84

This is what I used for gluing down the IHS. It worked pretty well, I just used as thin of a bead as I could.

Great idea with the gauge too.

Is this delidded? Are you planning to delid? With such a good bin, I'd be excited to see how good of an OC you could get if you weren't thermally limited.


I just got one with the AsRock Extreme 6, but I haven't yet found out how far I can push it on stock voltage. I'm using a Zalman LQ-315 cooler with the stock 50CFM fan swapped out for a monstrous 170CFM fan. My CLU (liquid metal thermal paste) is in the mail.

Just out of curiosity which cooler did you decide to go with? I have the ACX 2.0 version. So just above the stock reference. This has caused me to consider getting a better cooler for my card too. =)

Edit - was it this one? http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Hybrid-GeForce-Cooling-400-HY-0996-B1/dp/B00ZQ4PFX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459192749&sr=8-1&keywords=980+ti+cooler

Run it with the side panel off and the fan pointed inside. It is 100% going to fuck up the airflow in your case, but the static pressure of a desk fan is going to be orders of magnitude higher than most case fans, that the sloppy airflow matters a lot less.

I'm assuming you mean something like this:

Honeywell HT-900 TurboForce Air Circulator Fan, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0Gnwxb1PJA3ZG

Now i just need to decide.

These all look like good deals.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1000w-be-quiet!-power-zone-full-modular-single-12v-rail-cool-off-feature-3-fan-control-built

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1000w-nzxt-hale90v2-white-80plus-gold-full-modular-psu

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FLVIQQ8/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=04QMVKY1WDF9SFRW8A5F&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455344027&pf_rd_i=468294

What about these 240mm?

DEEPCOOL Captain 240 RGB V2, AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, Anti-Leak Technology Inside, Sync RGB Waterblock and Fans with Cable Controller or MB with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, TR4/AM4 Supported, 3-Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPNP4VP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_regmDb6NW0FWF

Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QhgmDbA1Q3Z38

I don't know exactly to what degree, but a cooling pad under your laptop might help if you have intakes or vents underneath. There are also these usb fans that help pull air through your exhaust vent, not sure how effective they are either but moving more air can't hurt.

O well my room isn't that hot haha but probably around 80ish degrees or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77 - shows around $50

Was actually looking at the Arctic Freezers, saw a good review on youtube other day.

Hi I'm building a gaming rig with the mindset I'm keeping my rig for 4-5 years so I'm getting 32gb.

Would you advice getting 4x8 or 2x16?

My motherboard will be asrock x470 taichi. The 4x8 kit is on the qvl so I assume 2x16 will work too.

For overclocking will there be little to no difference between 2x16 Vs 4x8?

2x16

Crucial Ballistix Sport LT BLS2K16G4D32AESC 3200 MHz, DDR4, DRAM, Desktop Gaming Memory Kit, 32 GB (16 GB x 2), CL16 (White) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07M5RKH5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gVaADbZVKQQ1X

4x8
Crucial Ballistix Sport LT BLS4K8G4D32AESBK 3200 MHz, DDR4, DRAM, Desktop Gaming Memory Kit, 32 GB (8 GB x 4), CL16 (Grey) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MNJPFFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YVaADb28C687K

So what should I do for compatibility and overclocking 4x8 or 2x16?

Thank you

240mm, $75, first 240mm result for liquid cooler on Amazon.

Edit: Here's a better one for only $70.

Edit 2: And here's a 360mm one for $100.

So here's advice from my experience:

• Research, research, research. You'll find a lot of videos online, here on reddit, youtube (when it's online Kappa), and on various websites. GamersNexus is pretty much the most trustworthy group I looked up to in terms of doing research the whole process
  
• if you wish to relid your IHS to your CPU, use a silicon adhesive with high temperature resistance. I purchased "J-B Weld 32329 Ultimate Black". You do not need to apply a large amount; just enough to seal it up. I noticed what when I delidded my CPU, there's a small opening on the sealant- in other words, it wasn't fully sealed up- not sure why... (if anyone has any knowledge on this, please chime in. I, too, am curious.)
  
• USE THE NAIL POLISH! The nail polish I used was the same one as GamersNexus used for their protective coat. Here's the Link: Nail Polish . You're going to want to use this to coat the small 4 dots, you don't need much, just enough to cover them up.
  
• Everyone uses Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and I did as well. Shot 25 degrees down (had a 120mm upgraded to a 280mm). So this is where it gets sort of tricky because I messed up on my relidding- I didn't apply enough liquid metal to the Die. But still, I advise you to use only a small dot on the Die, spread it out, and apply another dot on the IHS, and spread it out as well. Don't flood the thing, start off small and slow.
  
  Hope this helps ya. If I missed anything, or my advice is wrong, feel free to correct me. I'm just giving my 2 cents off my experience.

If you mean the NVIDIA settings panel, I haven't changed anything in there. I can see my performance is set to optimal and can be changed to max performance. Is there anything else I should change in there by default?

When it comes to RAM I bought this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don' think that it is OC'd and I do not believe that I have XMP enabled as I haven't changed any BIOS settings either.

Leave it at 3.6 unless you get better cooling. Scythe Mugen Rev B or Fuma are excellent and affordable coolers that can max out any 6-core Ryzen OC.

Your CPU might not be quite as bad as you think, higher temps decrease stability requiring more voltage, which in turn increases temps even further.

Don't even bother overclocking an i7-8700k without a delid. It's just not worth it. 1.315v with 97 Celsius is actually above average for 1.315v. You would see temp drops to almost 25 Celsius probably if you delidded (I managed to drop 30 Celsius!!) Delidding is easy if you have the right tool.

With the stock cooler on a 720, you should be able to clock up to around 3.2 from the stock 2.8 and maintain under 65C which is the highest you should hover around. I would recommend purchasing a light aftermarket cooler such as a Cooler Master Hyper 212+. Also, you are going to be overclocking your CPU in the bios.

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319929968&sr=8-1

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

It's not powerful at all, it's a little $12 fan. The blown air is definitely cooler than the air in the case, the air is simply coming from the direction of the living room.

My PC:

• 7700k @ 4.8 Ghz
  
• ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo
  
• Kraken x52 AIO
  
• 16 gigs g.skill ram @ 3200
  
• Gigabyte 970 (soon to be replaced with a 2070 this month)
  
  I built this PC back in 2017 and the CPU temps have been terrible since day 1.
  
  With my daily driver overclock of 4.8 Ghz, 100% utilization for more than 10 minutes would push CPU temps into the mid 90's. Heavy gaming (~50% utilization) would regularly cause temps in the upper 70's or low 80's.
  
  After browsing around here and Youtube I found that the problem was likely Intel's thermal paste under the IHS, so for just over $30 I bought:
  
  
• A $13 Delid Tool
  
• A $7 pack of sandpaper
  
• Conductonaut Liquid Metal for $16
  
  I then delidded my CPU, spent over an hour sanding down my IHS, then applied liquid metal under the IHS and Artic MX-4 above (which I had laying around). I chose not to re-seal the IHS after reading some comments here.
  
  Now my CPU temps idle in the 30's, stay in the 40's while gaming and rarely ever hit the 50's.
  
  For CPU temps to break into the 60's, I have to run 100% utilization for over 15 minutes (as shown), which doesn't even happen in my day-to-day use.
  
  So pretty happy overall.

I just bought this one on amazon. Should be delivered here in the next couple days. I'll give you an update when it gets here.

Hey so the reply from /u/phlegm_ got filtered because of an amazon referral tag which I guess they haven't been able to edit out, so here's a fixed version;

>this is my cpu cooler: here . I have regular case fans

EDIT: Initially forgot to put the mod tag on

Well hello there: https://www.amazon.com/NEMIX-Replacement-Samsung-M391A4G43AB1-CVF-DDR4-2933/dp/B07YXBBXWC

Not sure if A-die or even samsung chips, but it's still tempting.

Oh, forgot to mention that- my RAM is this corsair vengeance- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8

It seems to only want to max out at 3066Mhz.

Just found that my motherboard has a new BIOS update though, so I'll try installing that

this is my cpu cooler: here . I have regular case fans

Ir gun

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020062-UK-Series-RM1000-Modular/dp/B00FLVIQQ8/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1395643329&sr=1-3&keywords=coolermaster+v1000

Fully modular, 1000w, £140

Is this your RAM? https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-PC4-25600-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B07MNJPFFF?th=1

Be Quiet BK008 Prozessorlüfter schwarz https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01KVNCEIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2EmjDbTTT4EVH

Isn't that what it is? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Hybrid-GeForce-Cooling-400-HY-0996-B1/dp/B00ZQ4PFX2

You mean like this stuff? I have a can of it and it's expensive shit, but havn't used it on anything sensitive yet, so not sure if safe or not.

I actually found it on Amazon der8auer Delid Die Mate 2 - CPU IHS Heatsink Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6T4LD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kOGbBb637BA86